Sharpening the chain of the chain of the stihl with your own hands. Choosing a candle

Sharpening of the chain. how to properly sharpen a chain of a chainsaw with your own hands

There are a number of factors that will tell you when the time has come to sharpen the chain of the chainsaw:

• Productivity has decreased. The cut time increased.
• The excessive load on the saw is felt.
• Increased vibrations.
• Small shavings.

It is difficult for beginners to notice the first 3 points, so it is recommended to monitor what chips fly out of the cut.

Small chips formed in the process of sawing, especially brown color, is a guaranteed sign of blunting.

How to determine that the chain is dull?

Unfortunately, in many cases, sharpening is carried out in a timely manner. the user simply does not notice the signs indicating that the chain is dull. This, in turn, leads to a drop in performance, destruction of the tire and leading stars, reduce the service life of the chainsaw. So that such problems do not arise, during work, pay attention, firstly, to the appearance of the chips: if it becomes darker and small, this is a clear sign that the chain requires sharpening.

Secondly, it is worth looking at the teeth of the chain-in many cases, the blunt can be seen with the naked eye.

Thirdly, the need to sharpen can be determined by a markedly reduced level of performance-it becomes noticeably more difficult to saw, the work takes more time.

First about horror stories

You will saw a dumb chainsaw, get three negative factors:

• Reduce the efficiency of your process. For example, instead of two cubes, drink one (at the same time);
• Pass the mechanism with an intensive wear, with the risk of destruction of the leading stars and tires;
• Receive increased fuel consumption;

There is another fourth, perhaps not such a significant factor. a “torn” cut cut.

And of course, you’ll get tired more, you will (possibly) be angry with yourself, such as “What a fool to me, do not sharpen in advance, now suffer”

Here you have a test (photo on the right). Guess which shavings “came out” from under the sharp and dumb chains? (The answer will be lower).

How to understand that the chain has become dull

• Increased physical efforts;
• Sagging (stretching) of the chain;
• Vibration and “inhibitory” passage of the saw;
• The inaccuracy of the saw and a change in the type of sawdust (they become uneven with sharp “needle” edges, small and dusty). This is the answer to the test.

“According to experts and in my opinion, too: well.sharpened teeth, more important than the power of the engine.””

Why is it stupid? The reasons, in general, are known, but I will name the main ones:

• Intensive or volumetric work;
• Random contact with stone, earth, hard bitch, etc.P.;
• Inept appeal (broad concept).

The consequences of the work of a not sharpened chainsaw

Dumb chain causes inconvenience to the user. It becomes harder to work, and then it is completely impossible. Sooner or later, the saw will stop fulfilling its function. Draw even a thin board will demand great physical efforts.

Negative consequences occur for the tool itself:

• Increased fuel consumption. For cutting logs, the canvas makes more revolutions. Fuel consumption rises to 30%.
• Accelerated wear. The tire and the chain itself is the most quickly. Increased load also accelerates the wear of all internal chainsaw mechanisms.
• Reducing efficiency. It is necessary to work to achieve the result longer and with great physical efforts.
• The danger of injury. The saw often jams, and the chain is torn. The risk of injury to the operator increases.

Chain parameters

The main geometric parameters of the saw chain are a step, profile height and shape of the cutting tooth, the thickness of the leading link, the number of links. A step is half the distance between the centers of three sequentially walking rivets.

It is customary to measure it in inches, and everyone has a symbol (see. Table 1). Saw chains in height of the tooth profile are divided into low and highly profile. So, for powerful STIHL chainsaws, it provides for Rapid chains with a higher tooth, and for less powerful. Picco chains with a lower tooth. The number of links determines the length of the circuit, depends on the power of the engine installed in the saw, as well as the type of work performed and corresponds to the size of the tire.

The thickness of the leading link is measured in millimeters (mm) and must correspond to the width of the groove of the tire used (s/and. Table 2). The last figure of this thickness is stamped in the form of a convention on each leading link of the chain.

Saw chains may also differ in the shape of a cutting tooth. The STIHL production chains have two such forms. Micro (M), Super (S). Without going into the intricacies of the design, we note that the saw chain with the shape of the cutting tooth Micro is universal, it combines high performance of cutting, ease of operation, long service life and simple maintenance.

Meets the requirements of construction, rural and forestry. The saw chain with the shape of the cutting tooth Super combines the maximum performance of cutting, high cutting efficiency and low feed force, meeting the highest requirements for professional tools in the forestry. Such chains are cut faster and good for cutting hard or frozen wood. When sharpening the Super saw chain, there are certain features.

In addition, STIHL has a Duro saw chain with teeth that have a hard alloy attack. It combines the highest wear resistance, ease of operation and good performance. It is stable when working with dirty wood or with short contact with the ground, when sawing boards from formwork or construction forests after the end of work.

Highly effective when used in forest sites damaged by fire. The service life of the Duro chains is up to 10 times longer than saw chains without carbide attacks. Such circuits are much more expensive, and they are hidden by an electric sharpening machine with a diamond sharpening circle in specialized service centers.

Cutting teeth work according to the principle of a shirt: they cut off chips from wood. The depth of cutting the cutting tooth into wood and thereby the thickness of the chips is determined by the distance between the depth limiter and the upper part of the cutting tooth. If this distance is not enough, then the saw chain will not capture the shavings (that is, to saw), but will only slide along the wood. Vice versa, the greater the difference in heights between the limiter and the top of the cutting tooth, the thicker the chips, but at the same time, the more vibration produced by the chain, as well as higher, the load on the drive mechanism. Therefore, it is necessary to achieve the optimal ratio of vibration of the chain and performance, and in all models of STIHL saw, this ratio is selected.

When you need sharpening?

You can determine the need to sharpen the teeth of the chain while working with a tree. The speed of work is reduced, the tool makes characteristic sounds. Typical signs of a blunt blade:

• The saw does not bite into the wood, but moves from place to place, like a grinding machine;
• When working with solid rocks, the headset is weakly entered into the thickness of the logs, you have to apply a mechanical effort;
• The shavings acquires a loose appearance, rarely crumbled during operation;
• All parts of the chainsaw are heated above the norm, the smell of burnt oil appears.

In a high.quality circuit, teeth should have a flat metal shine. There should not be rust, plaque on any part of the link. It is not recommended to operate the tool if there are chips, dents and other mechanical damage to the cutting edge.

What is the cutting link in the chain?

Before proper sharpening, it is necessary to arm yourself with theoretical knowledge about the structure of the chain, learn about its parts in order to understand where and what to attach for sharpening.

The cutting link consists of the following parts:

The working angle has a certain value relative to the axis of the circuit. In chains intended for sawing wood across, it should be 30 degrees, and for longitudinal. 10.

A restrictive tooth, or just a limiter, is needed in order to set a level to which a cutting tooth in the wood will be plunged. It is always lower than the cutting tooth. The difference in height between the limiter and the cutting tooth should ideally be 0.68 mm. The special template allows us to close to this value as close as possible. However, for example, I always do this by eye and the chain is sawing without problems.

It is advisable to grind the limiter with each sharpening so that the chain does not lose its performance.

If the limiter is not sufficiently worn, then the chainsaw falls with performance, since the cutting tooth in this case does not capture wood enough. And vice versa, if the limiter is too large, an excessively deep cut of the cutting tooth into the wood occurs, which makes the load on the chainsaw, and there is an additional probability of the appearance of such a thing as a reverse blow-this is when the cutting tooth at high speed so deeply rests against the tree that it stucks in it and stops, and the whole chainsaw is transmitted that it flies towards the operator.

Therefore, in order for the chain to stop in this case, and there is a brake of an emergency stop, which will brake it so that it, if it would hit the operator, then at least does not rotate at the same time. Well, so that the operator does not end up at all, you need to work in a helmet.

Why the chain is torn

The owner of the chainsaw may have to face such a problem as a rupture of a sawing canvas. If this happens, it is necessary to find out the reasons for the breakdown.

Most often, the main reason is adverse factors from the outside:

• tension in excess of measure;
• wear of the guide tire or the mismatch of the shanks width of the working groove;
• operation of a saw set with high loads for a long time;
• overheating of the parts due to lack of lubrication;
• Determination of the part of the tire and configuration of the crown of the leading star.

Chain parameters

The main geometric parameters of the saw chain are a step, profile height and shape of the cutting tooth, the thickness of the leading link, the number of links. A step is half the distance between the centers of three sequentially walking rivets.

It is customary to measure it in inches, and everyone has a symbol (see. Table 1). Saw chains in height of the tooth profile are divided into low and highly profile. So, for powerful STIHL chainsaws, it provides for Rapid chains with a higher tooth, and for less powerful. Picco chains with a lower tooth. The number of links determines the length of the circuit, depends on the power of the engine installed in the saw, as well as the type of work performed and corresponds to the size of the tire.

The thickness of the leading link is measured in millimeters (mm) and must correspond to the width of the groove of the tire used (s/and. Table 2). The last figure of this thickness is stamped in the form of a convention on each leading link of the chain.

Saw chains may also differ in the shape of a cutting tooth. The STIHL production chains have two such forms. Micro (M), Super (S). Without going into the intricacies of the design, we note that the saw chain with the shape of the cutting tooth Micro is universal, it combines high performance of cutting, ease of operation, long service life and simple maintenance.

Meets the requirements of construction, rural and forestry. The saw chain with the shape of the cutting tooth Super combines the maximum performance of cutting, high cutting efficiency and low feed force, meeting the highest requirements for professional tools in the forestry. Such chains are cut faster and good for cutting hard or frozen wood. When sharpening the Super saw chain, there are certain features.

In addition, STIHL has a Duro saw chain with teeth that have a hard alloy attack. It combines the highest wear resistance, ease of operation and good performance. It is stable when working with dirty wood or with short contact with the ground, when sawing boards from formwork or construction forests after the end of work.

Highly effective when used in forest sites damaged by fire. The service life of the Duro chains is up to 10 times longer than saw chains without carbide attacks. Such circuits are much more expensive, and they are hidden by an electric sharpening machine with a diamond sharpening circle in specialized service centers.

Cutting teeth work according to the principle of a shirt: they cut off chips from wood. The depth of cutting the cutting tooth into wood and thereby the thickness of the chips is determined by the distance between the depth limiter and the upper part of the cutting tooth. If this distance is not enough, then the saw chain will not capture the shavings (that is, to saw), but will only slide along the wood. Vice versa, the greater the difference in heights between the limiter and the top of the cutting tooth, the thicker the chips, but at the same time, the more vibration produced by the chain, as well as higher, the load on the drive mechanism. Therefore, it is necessary to achieve the optimal ratio of vibration of the chain and performance, and in all models of STIHL saw, this ratio is selected.

Sequence of operations when sharpening

High.quality sharpening of teeth involves strict observance of the following rules:

• A file for sharpening the chainsaws should be placed strictly perpendicular to the direction of moving the saws of the saw in the vertical direction, and at an angle of 15 20 0. in horizontal. The latter is controlled by the holder.
• A round file in the tooth pharynx must be located slightly higher than its edge (for a file this is about 1 1.5 mm).
• A holder is installed on the tooth, the lines of which will show the exact direction of the movement of the file in the horizontal plane.
• After several movements of the file, the sharpening surface is covered with magnetized chips, which should be immediately removed.
• They begin sharpening in the direction of themselves, without applying unnecessary efforts: the notches should gently enter into the metal of the tooth. It is recommended to make several movements, and then turn the file by 20 30 0. so that the wear of the notches takes place more evenly.
• It is recommended to perform the sharpening “through the tooth”: first sharpen the teeth of one direction, and then the other.
• The pressure on the file during sharpening should be constant, as well as the number of reciprocating movements for the tooth.

When sharpening the depth limiter, they come as follows. A template is superimposed on the limiter. Когда прорезь ограничителя войдёт в паз шаблона, устанавливают высоту изношенного участка, которую и снимают при помощи плоского напильника. The template is installed one of two sides. Hard or Soft, which corresponds to solid or soft wood.

Sharpowing will go easier if the tire of the chainsaw is squeezed into locksmiths. The intervals between sharpeners can be increased if you control the correctness of the chain tension, monitor the state of the limiter, regularly lubricate all the moving elements, and periodically replace the leading stirlet.

The most inexpensive way to sharpen the saw is to purchase a file for sharpening the chain of the chain and do it yourself without outside help. However, this scenario implies a lot of nuances. You need to know how to choose a file, what characteristics should you focus on, study the sawing technique, and, in the end, stock up on, sharp vision and hard hands. The last three factors are required, because without them it is impossible to conduct the right gut of the file with a file.

Files for sharpening a chain of a chain of a chain

Smoot the circuit on an electric machine

This type of sharpening is used by service centers or enterprises. On an electric machine, the process is significantly accelerated. Machines can have external differences in design, but the principle of sharpening is the same: the chain is installed in a special guide groove, which is placed on a rotary platform and has a special emphasis for fixing the lifted tooth. The fixer design is equipped with regulators.

Sharpening is made by a movable machine, which is equipped with an abrasive circle and placed at a certain angle. The device has a drift depth adjustment (for inexperienced users). After turning on, the operator lowers the abrasive and pulls the tooth. If necessary, a sharpening circle can be changed. After the end of one side, the chain must be turned over, and the teeth on the other are sharpened similarly.

The reasons for the wear of the chain of the chain

The saw chain is under constant load in the process of sawing, so its natural wear occurs. This cannot be avoided. Another thing is if the chain is stupid too quickly, premature. There may be different reasons for. One reason-if you touched the ground or other surface with a chain during sawing, this is not very good for the chain, it can even fail because of this. Among other reasons, you can call a bad lubrication of the chain. How can it turn out? Yes, very simple. Some generally manage to saw without oil, for example, forget to add. This is of course an exotic case. The faulty operation of the oil pump is much more common, and, as a result, overheating of the tire and chain. Also, one of the reasons is the use of a guide tire that does not correspond to the model and brand of the chainsaw. It is well known that the internal design of the tire is nothing more than part of the lubrication system of the chainsaw.

Speaking “saw”, we mean a chain gasoline or electric saw.

The problem of the drooping teeth of the chain of the chain (or electric saw) is gradually shown. Those who owns the tool not so long ago are often difficult to determine the moment of sharpening.

When is it necessary to sharpen the chain?

This work is not seasonal and is carried out only if necessary.

If you began to notice that you load the saw more than usual, and the usual operations are done longer. these are the first symptoms of reducing the severity of the teeth.

Absolute visual sign. very small sawdusts are separated during sawing. The dulled metal for one pass removes less than the wood than

The brightest signal for sharpening is brown sawdust, carbonization of the sawing site.

How to sharpen a chain?

We recommend sharpening chains in certified service centers, although many do not support this opinion-mainly due to imaginary savings.

Sharpet by a professional on the machine. the key to the correct implementation of all procedures. which ultimately extends the life of the chain and is already really saving money.

But the reality is that it may need to put the chain in order on your own. For such cases, you also need to prepare in advance and stock up on the right tool:

• Round file of the corresponding diameter. The most important player in sharpening. But you should not work only a file! Manually you cannot reliably stabilize the chainsaw (electro), as a result of the angle of sharpening, each tooth will have its own.

Picco. low.profile chains with carbide links, which are equipped with some STIHL saws.

Some manufacturers produce ready.made sets for chains.

A round file and guide can simultaneously replace a special hand tool for sharpening circuits. It is arranged so that it is fixed on the tire at the right angle.

How to sharpen?

Put the saw on an even strong surface.

Put the first tooth for about the middle of the tire. Just in case, make a mark next to him on a chain (for example, an alcohol marker) so as not to get carried away and not go in the second circle.

Strictly observing the angle with the help of a template or guide, make movements with a file from the inside of the tooth to the external (or from the saw case to the end of the tire).

Try not to overdo it with the movements of the file. For starters, 2-3 is enough. Make sure that their number is equal to each tooth.

If the teeth are worn in different ways, then the uniformity of sharpening will have to be achieved by eye. However, this is also an occasion to think about the correct use of the saw. In a good way, wear should be uniform.

Pull the next tooth too on the middle of the tire. This is the most reliable and comfortable position.

You should observe the difference in height between the working tooth and the limiter. The limiter is usually processed after 2-3 sharpening of the cutting tooth.

Sharpening angles, chain step, the difference in height between the tooth and the limiter check in the instructions for the saw or chain.

As you can see, the procedure is very cunning and requires practice. We wish you productive work with a saw!

How to sharpen in a machine way?

With a strong wear of the saw tape, the only reasonable solution will be the instrumental sharpening of the teeth located on it. The easiest way to do this is using an electric machine that provides uniform supply of effort during metal processing. The tool is needed not by simple, but with a sharpener capable of performing pendulum movements. The chain in this case is removed from the saw, mounted in a special rotary holder on the machine.

The machine method is considered the safest and most effective. Such sharpening passes quickly, without taking a lot of time. In addition, the exact adjustment of the parameters allows us to be guaranteed to obtain the expected results. You can configure the depth and angle of dive of the disk.

The main recommendation for machine sharpening of the teeth of the chain for gasoline and electric saws can be considered the control of the heating of the metal. When rolling, radical color change, the material will acquire fragility. In this case, when working, the cutting edge will crumble, will quickly collapse. The standard contact time of the rotating disk and the tooth of the circuit during sharpening should be no more than 2 seconds. If the result did not work out for 1 passage, the action is repeated after the break, during which the metal will have time to cool down.

An alternative to an automatic tochit machine can be its manual analogue. In this case, the rotation of a round file is carried out mechanically. You can carefully measure all the corners, make the editing of the teeth. Sharpening is performed in 2-3 movements, excluding the overheating of the metal. This is the best option for those who are working for the first time, but want to get a decent result.

Other options

The saw chain can be sharpened with other improvised tools. Acting correctly and sequentially, you can achieve good results even without a machine. The main difficulty here is that to fix the working area, as well as withdraw the desired angle when working with a power tool on weight is almost impossible.

corner grinder (angular grinder)

Despite the fact that this method is often mentioned as an alternative to the machine.sharpening of the chain, it is difficult to recommend it for use. Even experienced masters cannot cope with tasks perfectly. What can we say about newcomers. The difficulty with fixing a certain angle of sharpening requires the use of auxiliary devices.

The corner grinder can be fixed in a vice, stationary, and then handed the teeth to the surface of the rotating disk, but this approach can lead to serious injuries with non.compliance with safety precautions.

Difficulties when using corner grinder include a high risk of rupture of the chain. With any careless movement, the cutting element angular grinder can damage the hinge connection. In this case, the dispensed section of the chain will fly off arbitrarily, increasing the likelihood of an injury for a master that performs the work. The sharpening process consists in the supply of the chain to the saw disk. The duration of contact is best done as on the machine. This will reduce the risks of metal overheating. It is better to leave the chain on the tire, as with manual sharpening. The rest of the procedure will be the following.

• A disk is installed on the corner grinder. It is better to choose a cut.out circle for metal work with thickness indicators up to 2 mm.
• A buffer is installed between the chain and the tire. You can take a piece of chips or other improvised material.
• Sharpening is performed. It is important to measure the desired angle in advance.
• The tacing of the chain. It will be needed after sharpening in any way.

The sharpening of the teeth of the chainsaw using angular grinder has obvious advantages. This is the speed of work, the lack of additional costs, if the tool is already available. The disadvantage is also quite obvious. too high risks, it is necessary to carefully observe safety precautions when working with a corner grinder.

Drill or drill

Using this type of tools involves the work by analogy with manual sharpening. Mechanization allows you to slightly accelerate the process. But here you need to monitor the exact positioning of the work area. For use in combination with a drill and a drill, special sharpeners are available, including the following equipment elements:

The rag of the replaced file is fixed in the cartridge of the power tool. It is selected in diameter, taking into account the corresponding step of the saw chain. After that, the equipment is installed on the drill or drill, its adjusting screw is weakened. It is aligned and fixed along the ruler.

The tool is brought to the tooth of the chain, the rotation of the tip is activated. Nadfil, as with machine processing, grinds all sides of the tooth at once. The average duration of the entire tape is no more than 15 minutes.

over, the accuracy of the effect is very high.

About the teeth of the chainsaw

The teeth of the chainsaws have specific geometry. You need to understand and know what part of them is subject to sharpening. In general, the “logic” of the cut of wood resembles a shirt.

The cutting surface consists of two edges. One side, the other is a little beveled. The limiting element of the cut of the cut regulates the dimensions of the chips in the thickness. Consider in more detail. Elements of a cut-to-worm link are arranged as follows:

• Base with holes for the axis;
• Tooth shoulder blade;
• The depth limiter drank;
• The end line of the blade (placement. vertically);
• Upper face of the blade (placement. horizontally);

The sharpened edge blunted after touching the ground

After sharpening, the height of the limiter and the angle of sharpened working edges, should not differ much from the parameters specified by the manufacturer. This is an important condition and you need an “eye and eye”. Otherwise, the saw will not work as it should be.

You can not grind excessively or change the location of the links. The normal operation of the tool depends on the identity of their location. Otherwise, increased loads on the case, tire and engine are likely. The cut may be crooked. There is also a slight probability of circuit gap.

Possible methods and methods of sharpening a circuit

We work as a file

The best solution is simple “bells and bellsways” for sharpeners. This set includes a round and flat file, special holders, a caliber template, a hook for removing chips, etc. Structurally, “devices” may differ, but the functionality has a general logic.

The diameter of the round file directly depends on the size of the chain:

• – chains with Ø 1.3. require a file of Ø 4 mm (used much more often);
• – chains with Ø 1.6. require a file of Ø 5.2 mm;
• – to sharpen a depth limiter, use a flat file.
• Previously “turning on” the chain brake, tightly click the tire of the chainsaw in the vice (tightly clamped saw. the key to successful sharpening)
• Set the template so that the Strelka is directed to the “nose” of the tire. Be sure to mark (you can chalk) the tooth from which they started sharpening, otherwise you can go in the second circle;
• Sharpage to the side indicated by the arrows. Remember, on each tooth of the chain there is a special factory notch. It indicates the maximum angle of sharpening.
• In addition to the cutting tooth, there are limiters at each link. Their sharpening is carried out as needed. This is necessary when the height of the tooth decreases as a result of sharpening, and problems in the chainsaws appear. As a rule, the limiter is undermined after 2-3 sharpening of teeth;

“If there is no skills in sharpening, it is better to start with inexpensive chains.”.

• The file should not go beyond the upper part of the cutting edge, more than 1/5 of the working part of the file. Pressure is carried out with the same effort;
• The movement of the grinding instrument is performed in one direction “from yourself”, and the number of movements for each tooth should be equal;
• For sharpening a vertical plane, the position of the file should be at a right angle;
• For sharpening the horizontal plane, the position of the file, at an angle of 20-30 °
• If there are teeth of different heights, the guideline is the smallest.

Advantages: the ability to “charge the saw” in the field. At the same time cheap.

Disadvantages: takes time and strength. At the same time quickly “kills” the file. By the way, about files: it is better to pay a little more and take a quality product. than to purchase for 40-50 and throw it away after the first sharpening (verified in practice). And yet, if the chain “plowed” the soil so well that its cutting edge changed its original shape, sharpening with a file is difficult and not at all fast.

Smooting corner grinding

Professionals consider this work, primitive. There is a risk of tire damage, and not only.

Process (it looks easy, but in fact. it is difficult)

• The chain also remains on the tire;
• We fasten the cutting of a cutting disk with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm on the corner grinder. It is advisable to take not a new one, that is, with a part.time edge;
• In front of the chain and tire, put an obstacle (the sliver will come);
• We sharpen at the right angle;
• Upon completion of work, the chain must, properly, pull up.

With a professional approach and a “stuffed hand”, the number of sharpening can be more than 7 in this case.

“To a beginner, it’s better not to“ experiment ”with a saw, chain and. their parts of the body!””

The advantages of the method: quickly, cheaply and does not take away strength;

Disadvantages: we need special skills, a firm arm and the ability to observe safety precautions.

Electric grinding machines

They are equipped with special settings that help arrange a chain at a certain angle. At the same time, it is possible to accurately and carefully bring the disc to the teeth of the chain. There are machines equipped. They are turned on when the disk is filled to the lined edge. Convenience and functionality, of course high. You can find models at the “lifting” prices.

Manual drive machines

The design of such a machine is similar to a beam saw. Only where the saw canvas is located, there is a round file. With such a machine, you can sharpen and rule the teeth, adjusting the proportionality of the upper edges to the smallest (control) size. The mechanism allows you to accurately set parameters. After setting up the “control” tooth, sharpening is carried out in two or three movements. And then the transition. to the next tooth.

When it is necessary to relate the limiter, we change a round file to a flat.

Advantages of the method: allows you to sharpen the teeth, including those who have lost their original form.

Disadvantages: The price of the tool and remoteness from the possible area of ​​operation of the saw.

“After the end of the“ sharpener procedures ”, blow the circuit with compressed air (from the compressor or pump) and put it for a short time in clean motor oil. Of course, almost no one does such events, but for the chain, they will only benefit.””

What to choose for sharpening, you decide. This is due to how often you work a chainsaw. From the accuracy of handling her. From the quality of the purchased chain. And, of course, from the ability to spend an ennary amount. It is impossible to compare the methods, because as the German proverb says. “apples must be compared with apples”.

How to sharpen taking into account different circumstances?

As already noted, to sharpen the chain at a constant angle for working with various wood is ineffective. It is possible to obtain optimal performance with a minimum fuel consumption and resource of the saw itself only by setting the right angle when sharpening the working surfaces of the chain. To do this, many serious manufacturers, in particular STIHL, have developed special devices that allow the chain to sharpen the chain at different angles of tilt of the file to the longitudinal plane of the chain. At least two provisions: for soft and hard wood. For longitudinal sawing, chains sharpened for a transverse cut of solid wood are more often used, although experts recommend setting an even more acute angle.

It is important to understand that there is no difference in the sharpening of the chain for the electric saw, it has only another power drive.

For working with solid wood

Drink hard wood is expected, more difficult. That’s why it is called solid. Representatives of broad.leaved forests are attributed to trees with solid wood: ash, beech, birch, elm, maple, oak, hazel.

For a successful wood saw, the angle of sharpening should be no more than 25 °. At first glance, this should reduce performance, but with this angle, the saw can work optimally. Of course, you can cut with a larger angle, but at the same time the engine will have to give large speeds, which will cause excess fuel and the excessive load on the nodes and details of the saw itself, and on the hands and back of the sawmill. Correctly sharpened chain during operation will give large quadrangular sawdust.

Often for longitudinal sawing of any wood, just such an angle of sharpening is used. Included with some STIHL saws there is a special guide bar for sharpening the circuit with two guides that regulate the angle under which a round file will move.

For a soft tree

Both conifers (spruce, larch, pine, fir, cedar), and some deciduous trees (alder, linden, aspen, black and balmic poplar, willow) are customary to be attributed to trees with soft wood.

If it is necessary to cut the wood of these species with a transverse base, it is better to take a circuit with an angle of sharpening about 35 °. This will optimally use engine power. Sawed will turn out even, and the sawdust will be large, rectangular shape.

For longitudinal sawing of soft wood, it is better to resort to a circuit with a sharpening of 25 °. The fibers in this case are distributed unevenly, and areas of low density can alternate with areas of high wood density, which will require an increase in the speed of the saw engine.

With a large angle of sharpening, this can cause too sharp jerks of the entire mechanism and, as a result, overheating of the engine and excess of fuel.

How to install it correctly?

If the shape of the sawdust began to change, and they became increasingly reminiscent of needles, which are torn wood fibers, it was time to sharpen the chain.

Well, if there are interchangeable chains and you can continue to work, simply by installing a chain in advance at the right angle. If it is impossible to replace the chain, you will either have to continue working with an increased flow rate of the saw resources, fuel and despite your own fatigue, or stop and start sharpening the chain.

If the process occurs in the country or in the personal plot, it is better to accommodate the circuit in relatively comfortable conditions, holding the saw tire in a vice, installing a sharpening device from the desired angle.

For example, STIHL supplies the heading line with marking. In the case of longitudinal sawing or work with solid wood of the tree, the bar is set to the Hard position. For wood of soft trees, the bar is installed in the Soft position.

If the guide bar without designations, in this case, it is better to carefully study the instructions before sharpening. As a rule, a special transporter is applied on the guide strips, which allows you to install the desired angle.

Some masters are able to determine the angle of sharpening by eye, but without the corresponding skill it is better not to get carried away. A different angle of sharpening of the teeth of the chain leads to an increase in vibration during operation, which is adverse not only for the tool, but also for the health of the one who will use it.

Sharpening, without the necessary instrumental measurements, for example, in the forest in the conditions of the need, it is better to repeat it upon returning home, using all the devices available for this.