Stihl 180 chainsaw repair: malfunctions and their elimination
The Stihl MS 180 chainsaw is considered one of the most reliable among models of its own sector. But the technique is the technique, and from time to time there are malfunctions, the elimination of which may require the repair of stihl ms 180.
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Can I repair the saw with my own hands?
This is the very first question that arises before the owner of the Stihl 180 chainsaw, which for some reason has finished working normally. To answer which absolutely certainly will not work. It will be correct to say: it is possible, but is it necessary? Creating a chainsaw repair in a service center is naturally more expensive than trying to fix the problems with your own hands, but using the services of professionals, you get guarantees and confidence that the chainsaw will be properly configured and adjusted. Replacing the pump is only required if the Stihl 180 chainsaw. In general, the choice is yours.
Another small aspect regarding the choice to repair without the help of others or not, is that for the diagnosis of the chainsaw and its forthcoming disassembly and repair, you need to have some special tools and certain knowledge of the design of the saw. In an unpleasant case, you will not even be able to unscrew and remove the flywheel without damaging it.
Carrying out independent repair of the saw, very often break off duralumin fan blades located on the flywheel. This happens because when disassembling, they do not use a special crankshaft stopper, but try to fix it by installing a screwdriver between the saw body and the flywheel blades, which leads to sad consequences. The flywheel nut has a severe tightening torque, and the blades are brittle and unable to withstand such a force.
Stihl 180 Repair Tools
To carry out a relatively high-quality repair of the Stihl ms 180 chainsaw without the help of others, you will need to have:
- air compressor (for cleaning chainsaws and purging the main components and assemblies);
- a vacuum gauge is needed to check the density of the crankcase and carburetor, as well as to identify defective oil seals;
- piston stop, to limit the stroke of the crankshaft;
- electric tachometer in order to correctly set the carburetor of the chainsaw;
- T-key STIHL Torx 27 or equivalent;
- puller for crankshaft bearings.
Only with these tools can you repair the Stihl 180 chainsaw do it yourself, can be done pretty well.
Common breakdowns of the Stihl 180
Common errors on the Stihl chainsaw include:
- Starter cable breakage;
- Wear on the drive sprocket;
- Leaks in the oil supply system for chain lubrication;
- Wear of the worm gear of the oil pump;
- Air leaks through oil seals into the crankcase;
- No spark on the spark plug;
- Lack of fuel supply in case of defects in the carburetor (we will not dwell on them, because the repair and adjustment of the carburetor of the chainsaw is a rather wide issue and will be examined in a separate article);
- Cracking the eyes of the landing site under the engine control lever.
Now we will examine the malfunctions in more detail and begin with the repair of the oil pump.
Repair of the oil supply system
If there is no oil supply to lubricate the circuit, you need to diagnose the entire system and find the reason why the oil is not supplied. The main circumstances may be several:
- Clogged oil filter or oil system;
- Lack of thread on the oil pump worm gear;
- Blockage or malfunction of the pump itself;
- Depressurization of the oil system (there will be oil smudges on the bottom of the chainsaw).
To check the thread on the worm drive of the oil pump, you will need to remove the driven sprocket chainsaws and unwind the clutch. Replacing the oil pump drive disassembling the Stihl 180 chainsaw part 3. For this, the spark plug is turned out and the piston stop is installed in its place, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the crankshaft of the tool from turning.
Then the cover is removed from the side of the Stihl 180 chainsaw tire, and with the help of a screwdriver, the retaining ring holding the driven sprocket is removed, after which the sprocket itself is removed.
In this way, the Stihl 180 chainsaw sprocket is also replaced as needed.
The clutch is untwisted by means of a head on 19 and a winch. The clutch must be untwisted clockwise, since the thread is left. A reflective plate is installed behind the clutch, it must also be removed. The next part is the worm gear of the oil pump. After examining and finding the absence of plastic thread, you can safely discard the part and install the latest one instead, since its restoration is unrealistic. The Stihl 180 chainsaw is assembled in reverse order.
Dismantling the Stihl 180 chainsaw part 1
How simple and fast replace oil seal on the chainsaw and a tool is shown for this. How to easily and quickly replace the
How to replace the oil seal on a chainsaw How to replace the oil seal on the chainsaw
stihl, shtil, MS180, Stihl, chainsaw / start Stihl chainsaws 180 videos.
If the gear is in normal condition, the saw is disassembled, for this, the corkscrew is removed, the rear handle is untwisted and the throttle control rod is disconnected, after that the handle block is removed from the shock absorbers using a strong slotted screwdriver.
You need to remove the handles to provide access to the bottom at the installation site. oil pump.
In the next step, the oil hose coming from the oil tank is removed from the seat on the housing and the line is checked for blockage by supplying air through the oil hose to the oil tank housing. If a blockage is found, it must be cleaned, if it is impossible to do this, the defective hose must be replaced.
Next, the oil pump is removed from the body of the Stihl 180 chainsaw and washed in gasoline.
Typically, Stihl oil pumps rarely become unusable and require replacement. Basically, the reason for the lack of oil supply in the blockage, therefore, flushing and checking the pump gear for cranking, you can be sure that after reassembly Stihl chainsaws 180 problems with oil supply will disappear.
After repair, we assemble the Stihl 180 chainsaw in the reverse order. An important point is the sealing of the oil hose at the installation site, in the seat on the housing. Replacing the crankshaft seal, repairing a chainsaw is a very widespread disease of the weeders. It is necessary to rinse the hose and the hole for its installation with gasoline, then blow it with compressed air until it dries completely and coat it with oil-tight sealant, and then reinstall it.
Stihl 180 chainsaw control key broke. how to fix
Frequent breakdown of a chainsaw Stihl, which happens due to the fault of the operator, this is a malfunction in the engine control mechanism. precisely, when the seat for the control lever breaks off due to its design features, to solve this problem, it will be necessary to replace the saw body, which is difficult to do on your own. Consider the do-it-yourself repair algorithm replacement chainsaw chains:
Video: Stihl 180 Chainsaw Crankshaft Replacement
- The housing is freed from the handle block;
- The starter is removed, for this, the covers are removed from the fuel and oil tank and the fastening screws of the starter are loosened;
- Further, through the spark plug hole, a piston stop is installed in the cylinder, the flywheel is untwisted and removed from the engine shaft;
- The drive sprocket is removed and the clutch spins;
- Two 8 mm nuts that hold the air filter housing and the carburetor are untwisted, the modules are removed from the seats;
- At the next stage, 4 screws are fastened that hold the engine on the housing. Into the casing Stihl chainsaws 180 in the place of installation of the engine mount screws, special bushings are mounted that can independently fall out and be lost.
- The last point is the removal of the oil pump, the rubber elbow of the carburetor and the fuel and oil tanks.
Install parts in a new enclosure in the reverse order. In parallel with the elimination of the main malfunction, you can check the rubber elbow of the carburetor, the part that has exhausted its life and has lost elasticity must be replaced.
Oil seal replacement
How to repair a Stihl 180 chainsaw if oil seal replacement is required? It is necessary to disassemble the engine, for which you will first need to remove it from the chainsaw. Removal is carried out according to the algorithm described in paragraph: "The control key of the Stihl 180 chainsaw has broken. how to fix it."
After the engine is removed, 4 screws securing the engine pan are loosened, after which it is removed. Thus, removing the pallet, we gain access to the seals and bearings of the crankshaft.
An important point when replacing oil seals is the re-installation and sealing of the pallet.
Hello dear friends! My last chainsaw repair post gathered a lot of questions, a lot of answers and 150 subscribers. I continue to dilute the repair community with a benzo tool. In one comment, they asked me to show how to change the gaskets not on the Stihl lawn mower, it was just for me to repair the Stihl FS55, the instruction also works on the Stihl FS38 / 44.
So, let’s go, the preface: they brought the lawn mowing before the upcoming season, it started up, worked, and only occasionally during long work there weren’t big problems, it started to live its own life, it didn’t listen to the gas handles, but soon it passed and it worked again.
1. Carry out maintenance (replacing filters, candles, lubricating bearings, cleaning, blowing, adjusting). I will not show how this is done, everyone should know this.
2. Find the defect that causes "own life" lawn mowers.
Near the carburetor and under the covers, oil with dust was visible, the carburetor and the intake tract were fully operational. So we will get to the glands. To do this, remove the starter.
Then we unscrew the screws at the bottom of the braid, which are marked.
Remove the upper and lower casing. Next, take a suitable size Torx, insert it into the clutch drum and unscrew it, the right thread, that is, the usual one.
Next are the clutch pads, if there is no pneumatic wrench, then we clamp the flywheel carefully in a vice through wooden spacers, and we unscrew it with a gas key, the thread is right.
If the flywheel itself does not fly off, then we take a mallet and knock it out slightly, it can be easily removed, from the side of the starter head with a 13 turn-off starter ratchet, the thread is right.
So we got to the oil seals, oil and dust are visible around them, so the oil seals are passed, the client said to change.
We pull out the old oil seals with a thin screwdriver, clean everything, take new oil seals (size 12227.3, these are on 26 and 33 cm3 braids of China), grease the inside and outside with oil, fill them with a suitable head.
In total, it should turn out like this.
Putting it all in reverse order. Launched, warmed up, gazovaly, works like a clock.
So, let’s sum the price of maintenance and repair:
Air filter 100r
Fuel filter 50r
Replacing the fuel filter 50r
Carburetor cleaning and adjustment, gear lubrication 300r
Oil seals 100r pair
Replacing oil seals 350r
I don’t praise Stihl, but I wondered how long this scythe has been with the owner and how long it has been mowing it, the scythe is 5-6 years old, harvests hay in the summer, it mows 3-4 days a week, burns up to 5 tanks of fuel with interruptions only for refueling.
The Stihl MS180 chainsaw is not the cheapest to repair and has some factory defects, but at the same time it is lightweight, compact and high-speed. It is convenient in work.
- Remove the breaker by unscrewing the two nuts by 19 with a candle wrench.
- Remove the tire and chain, first loosening the tensioner.
- Turning the lock of the top cover to the left, remove it.
- We turn off the head of the two muffler nuts on 8, remove the muffler plate, the muffler and the muffler reflector along with two stud bolts.
- Unscrew the 2 carburetor nuts. Remove the filter housing with the air filter itself.
- Move the choke lever to position 1.
- We press the trigger of the gas and fix the carburetor lever in this position with a finger. Slightly pulling on ourselves, we lose traction.
- Pry off the suction lever with a screwdriver and take it out (pulling it to the left) from the hole in the housing.
- We remove the traction from the lever and the carburetor, remove the lever to the side so that it does not interfere.
- We remove the carburetor and disconnect the fuel hose. We stifle it with a suitable size with a nail.
- We take out the plastic ring-seal and remove it so as not to lose.
- We put the saw to one side, pry the retaining ring with a screwdriver, remove the stopper, the drive sprocket washer and the sprocket itself.
- Using the same “Russian key”, we remove the clutch by unscrewing it clockwise (left-hand thread) with a sharp blow of the hammer on the chisel. You need to put the chisel in the place shown in the figure. Otherwise, you may break the clutch.
- Unscrewing the clutch, remove the large washer while remembering which side it stood (the convex side should be on the engine side).
- Remove the oil pump drive.
- We take out three plugs from the chainsaw handle, prying them with a large slotted screwdriver.
- We squeeze shock absorbers from the case with the same screwdriver.
- Remove the handle of the case.
- Unscrew the gas tank cap and drain the gas. Unscrew the oil cover and drain the oil.
- We hook the wire clips of the lids from the tanks using a hook.
- Torx 25 turn off the screws of the starter cover and remove it.
- We turn the saw over and unscrew the fastener of the 4-bolt engine.
- We remove the engine by pre-pressing the rubber of the adapter inside the case.
- Turning over the body, pull out the oil pump hose.
- We remember the location of the groove of the pump and the depth of its location in the housing and knock it out with a small hammer on the large flat screwdriver laid flat on the pump.
- The depth of the pump in the housing is determined by the location of its gear. It should be in the same plane with the center of the shaft relative to the table.
- Unscrew the four screws securing the crankcase, pry it with a screwdriver, remove.
- We take out the crankshaft with the piston.
- Remove the snap ring from the piston and knock out the piston pin.
- We remove the stopper from the crankshaft, on the other hand we unscrew (not completely) the flywheel nut and with a light blow of the hammer on the nut we remove the flywheel.
- We remove the oil seals.
- Putting the crankshaft bearing on a vise, hammer blow through a soft strip of aluminum, knock out the crankshaft axis. We do the same thing on the other hand.
- We assemble the chainsaw in the reverse order, without forgetting to lubricate the engine crankcase with a thin layer of sealant.
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