The chain is not tensioned on the saw

Chain selection

The saw chain is as important as the engine. And its choice should be approached as responsibly as possible, this will help to avoid many problems during the subsequent operation of the tool. You need to choose a chain for a saw, focusing on the following parameters:

  • Saw model compatible. Despite the large number of alternative options, it is best to purchase a part from the same company that produced the tool itself..
  • Purpose of use. If the saw will be intended for household work at home or in the garden, then it is optimal to select a part with a chain link pitch of 0.325 ”. Large jobs require a high performance 3/8 ”pitch chain.
  • In length, it must match the length of the tire. Stretching or sagging of the part during long-term operation is eliminated by removing part of the links.
  • For large amounts of work, it is recommended to use high-performance saw blades with a 30 ° sharpening angle. For complex processing, for example, wet or frozen wood, sharpen the teeth at 10 °.

It is also important to consider the material with which you plan to work, and the method of cutting it. So chains with a smaller sharpening angle are suitable for ripping. At the same time, their productivity will not be so high, but the operational life will significantly increase..

The choice of the saw bar must also be very careful. First of all, it is worth paying attention to the material: the stronger it is, the longer the part will last without failing. The following parameters are equally important:

  • Length (the distance between the stop and the toe) – the greater this indicator, the larger the tree it will be possible to cut. Lengths 12-20 “are predominantly used..
  • Groove width – for household saws, parts with grooves up to 1.3 mm are used; 1.5-1.6 mm on a more powerful tool.
  • Shank – determines if the tire is suitable for a specific electric stove model. It is better to purchase a branded part, although shanks from different manufacturers are often interchangeable.

Can’t tension your chainsaw chain properly? this might be why!

chain, tensioned

Only with the correct selection of sawing elements will the further operation of the saw be effective, safe, requiring no additional money or time investments..

How to properly adjust the chain tension

The tension level of the saw chain directly affects the safety of the tool, work efficiency, and service life. It is very easy to check the tension level: closer to the center of the bar, grasp the saw blade by pulling it up. At normal tension, 1/3 of the point should remain inside the seat, and the chain can be safely rotated by hand.

Various saw models have wing nut or screw chain tensioners:

  • Adjustment on tools equipped with a quick tension system is carried out by rotating a special wheel located under the sprocket guard. Clockwise rotation tightens the saw element, counter-clockwise loosens. With this mechanism, the tension can be changed during operation..
  • Tension adjustments for screw saws are a little more complicated. You will need to loosen the tension screw and side nuts, then you can rotate the screw. With increasing tension, the chain must be turned forward in order to check the smoothness of the movement, to eliminate the backlash of the hinges.

Perform all work, making sure that the saw is disconnected from the mains..

How to put the chain on the saw correctly

When performing an impressive amount of joinery and carpentry work, you need a reliable saw, no matter where the wood is cut: in the house or outdoors. The quality and serviceability of the tool directly depends on the condition of its main elements: chains and tires. Correctly placing the chain on the saw is the main task facing the user, which greatly facilitates subsequent operation. Practical recommendations will help you perform this action even for those who have never done this before..

Installing the chain

During operation, especially on impressive volumes of work performed, the chain on the saw wears out and weakens. If you do not take care of its replacement in a timely manner, followed by adjusting the tension, the part can make the operation of the tool unsafe, for example, jumping off right at the time of cutting.

To install the chain on the saw, its characteristics should be taken into account, in particular the type of tension of the individual tool. With lateral tension, the sequence is as follows:

  • Release the brake by pulling the protective bar towards you until you hear a characteristic click.
  • Loosen the tensioning screw with a screwdriver, releasing the chain tension. The clamping nut will begin to rotate freely..
  • Remove old part. Open the compartment where the saw elements are located by lifting the cover on the body, then remove the chain from the guides (sprockets), the tire will also have to be dismantled. When it is not possible to remove the parts, you will need to loosen the tension screw still.
  • The replacement part is installed over the sprocket, you need to start from the top of the tire. Then, guided by the guides, insert back into the compartment.

Replacement may seem complicated, but it guarantees the reliability of the entire system, compared to tools equipped with keyless chucks..

Change the saw unit on saws with a quick tensioning system in the following order:

  • Remove the tool from the brake.
  • Open the handle nut to the stop.
  • Turn wing nut counterclockwise. This element serves as both a cover lock and a rail clamp..
  • After removing the guard from the guide, slide the tire in the opposite direction. Free the driven sprocket, remove the old chain.
  • Install a new chain along the entire length of the bar, starting with a sprocket, so that the cutting edge is facing the inside of the saw body.
  • Adjust the tension by adjusting the guide.
  • When the sprocket cover is installed, tighten the fastening nut without tightening.
  • In the direction of the arrow indicated on the body, turn the tension wheel, and then tighten the wing nut.

Changing parts on a saw equipped with a wing nut is not time-consuming, but allows quick tension adjustment.

Do-it-yourself saw chain sharpening

If signs of wear appear on the cutting teeth, it is recommended to sharpen the saw chain. To do it yourself, you need a set of special tools:

  • Files – flat and round. Their diameter must match the teeth of the chain..
  • Mandrel.
  • Caliber.

In order not to do unnecessary work, the first tooth must be marked with a marker before sharpening..

The saw element is not removed during sharpening, it is left on the tire, which is firmly fixed in a vice. Movements should be rhythmic, fast, accurate and made in one direction, observing the sharpening angle. When working with a round file, make sure that it does not go beyond the level of the chain teeth by more than 20% of its length..

Also, do not forget about the limiter, it also needs to be processed with a file, since over time this part wears out, losing its shape. The gauge (with the end face and at a 90 degree angle to the saw bar) must be applied to the edge of the stop. When the stopper protrudes beyond the caliber, it will need to be trimmed with a flat file..

To check how correct the sharpening was carried out, it will turn out only when cutting a tree. It will not work visually..

Despite the seeming complexity of the actions, replacing the saw elements on the saw, adjusting the tension and sharpening will not require the master to contact the service center. The main thing is to do everything in a timely manner, avoiding too strong wear of parts and not violating the operating conditions.

Tensioner device and principle of operation

The chain tension is adjusted by simply moving the bar:

  • from the leading sprocket (from the chainsaw) to strengthen the tension;
  • to the drive sprocket (to the chainsaw) to loosen the tension.

The tire is moved using a simple gear mechanism that transfers the force from the adjusting screw to the tire.

There is a spike on the adjusting shaft, which must necessarily fall into the hole on the tire when it is installed. It is this engagement that causes the tire to move when adjusting..

The screw is located under the hole in the cover that covers the drive sprocket, on the side or front, depending on the model of the chainsaw.

The screw in most models has a slot for a flathead screwdriver. Rotating it clockwise or counterclockwise moves the tire slowly, millimeters per revolution. This makes it possible to simply and accurately achieve the desired tension..

The tensioner mechanism is simple, therefore reliable enough. It fails for the only reason – if the teeth of the drive gears are made of soft or brittle metal. Some unscrupulous manufacturers use parts made with powder metallurgy. The teeth on such gears quickly “lick”.

In such cases, you have to change the entire node. You can tension the chain by hand or with a vise. The tire is neatly, without pressure on the grooves, is fixed in a vice, the chainsaw is pulled from the vice until the desired chain tension is reached. This is a temporary measure. The chain has to be tightened often, and without an adjusting mechanism it is inconvenient to do this.

The adjustment is carried out with the bar and chain fully installed in place, with the fastening nuts being loose, which, depending on the model, can be one or two.

Read more:  What Oil To Lubricate A Chainsaw Chain

When to tighten the chain

It is absolutely unacceptable to work with a strongly sagging chain..

The chain “jumping” during sawing can break the groove of the bar, disable the teeth of the driven sprocket.

A loose chain can damage parts of the mechanism. But the most dangerous thing is operator injury. Despite the brake and catcher, a loose chain can whip in an unpredictable trajectory, which is extremely dangerous..

The tension must be checked before starting work. During operation, the critical attenuation can be determined by two signs:

  • the chainsaw begins to jump and twitch in the hands;
  • the sound of work changes, a metallic ringing appears, a knock.

In this case, turn off the engine and check the tension.

Chainsaw chain tensioning algorithm

  • The chainsaw is placed in a comfortable position on a table or workbench.
  • Let go of the tire tightening, but not too much so that it does not wobble. On the contrary, if the release is insufficient, the tire remains pinched, and this can lead to a breakdown of the adjusting screw or mechanism..
  • The lower chain slack is clearly visible. Turning the adjusting screw (or wheel for keyless systems) tightens the slack.
  • The tension force is checked. The correctness is determined manually. About the middle of the bar, use your fingers to pull on the chain with a little effort. It should protrude 3-5 mm from the groove. The chain guide segments that slide inside the bar groove during operation must under no circumstances protrude completely. Their lower part must remain in the guide groove..
  • The nut or wing is tightened.
  • The ease of movement of the chain along the groove is checked. She must walk both forward and backward. If with a little effort, this is acceptable. In operation, the tension will quickly loosen.
  • If the chain does not move by hand, the operation is repeated. The fastening nut is released and the tension is loosened.

An illustrative example of how the chain tension occurs on a chainsaw is presented in the following

Keyless tensioning system

It began to be used relatively recently, it is considered new, if not advanced. Differs from the classic nut, as follows:

  • another tensioner mechanism;
  • lack of an external tightening nut;
  • adjustment without additional tools.

Instead of a turnkey nut for 13, there is a wing (swivel cap) on the lid with a handle for tightening by hand. It also has a nut, but it is hidden inside. Instead of an adjusting screw for a screwdriver in this system, the tension is carried out using the tension wheel (adjusting knob).

Instead of a gear shaft, there is a sprocket and a tension washer.

This system also has disadvantages:

  • the mechanism itself is more complicated than a traditional wrench;
  • the installation of the cutting attachment causes additional problems, because complicates the process of pairing all the parts in the right order;
  • less adjustment stroke, a slightly stretched chain will still serve with a traditional tensioning system, here it will sag and become unusable.

Why clamps the chain on a chainsaw

There may be several reasons for this:

  • the chain is too tight;
  • the groove of the tire, the space around the sprocket under the cover of the tire mounting, the clutch mechanism are clogged with a mixture of sawdust and oil;
  • the tire is completely incorrectly installed (the pin of the tensioner does not fall into the hole, it is skewed);
  • one or more of the chain links are seized 4
  • the chain is deformed, the guide segments are bent;
  • damaged tire groove.

Adjusting the chain tension takes only a few minutes without experience, and with experience it takes less than a minute. It is not burdensome to follow the correct tension, and not to follow – is more expensive for yourself.

Fitting the bar to the saw
There is a slot at one end of the tire and two holes on the sides of it. When installing the tire with a slot, put it on a special pin on the saw body, and one of the holes on the pin of the tensioning mechanism.

The second hole on the blade serves to transfer grease from the oil channel to the groove of the tire.

Installing the chain
The chain is pulled over a drive sprocket located on the saw body and over a sprocket at the end of the bar. When installing the chain, you must take into account the correct direction of its rotation, which is usually indicated on the product itself..

After installing the chain, the saw sprocket is closed with a cover, the clamping nut of which is not tightened to the stop so that the bar is not completely clamped.

Chain tension
Adjustment of the chain tension on Chinese saws is carried out using a special tension screw, the head of which has a slot for a screwdriver. It is located at the end of the device body. For tighter chain tension, rotate it clockwise..

The tensioning screw is turned until the chain slack disappears. After that, it is manually scrolled on the tire towards the saw body. This is necessary in order to “straighten” the teeth of the chain in the groove of the bar.

If the chain is loose after spinning, then tighten it again..
After that, the tire is taken by its free end, lifted up to the stop and in this position, the chain slack is again eliminated..

At the last stage, the clamping nut is completely tightened on the casing covering the saw drive sprocket. At the same time, the tire is kept in the “raised” position.
A correctly tensioned chain should be freely removed by hand from the grooves of the tire on its two sides by about 3-4mm, and when lowering, lie back into the grooves.

Checking the tension after work
Once the chain is tensioned, it is only after a little operational testing that you can finally check the quality of its tension. For this purpose, several test cuts are made with it..

It is not uncommon for the chain to loosen after test cuts. This happens when its links were contaminated, and during operation this contamination was dissolved by the lubricant..

If this happens, then the chain must be re-tightened, having previously slightly loosened the clamping nut on the casing and lifting the free end of the bar up. the saw, of course, must be disconnected from the network before this.

At the end of the chain tension adjustment, always check whether it goes in the right direction without tension, whether it is overtightened. To this end, it is unblocked by pressing the start button and pushed forward by the teeth with a screwdriver. If she moves a little by inertia, then everything is fine..

And the last thing. Never adjust the tension of the saw chain when it is hot or not lubricated, otherwise there is a risk of it breaking during subsequent work..

Full video version of recommendations for tensioning the saw chain on the petrol and saw.

How to tension the saw chain correctly?

How-To Properly Adjust The Chain Tension On Your Chainsaw

Continuously tightening the chain serves your safety and also reduces wear and damage to the chain..

Most STIHL chainsaws have an easy-to-use side chain tensioner. With it, you tighten the chain with one movement of your hand. This is done as follows:

Loosen the sprocket cover by hand using the wing nut. When the adjusting wheel located above is rotated to the left, the tension of the saw chain is miniaturized; when the adjusting wheel is rotated, the saw chain is tightened on the right. When tightening the chain sprocket cover, the guide bar is automatically locked.

When you want to change the chain, you need to painstakingly clean the groove of the guide bar from dirt in advance. In the case of heavy deposits of dirt in the groove, the chain may simply slip off the bar in an unpleasant case. In addition, there is a danger that the adhesive chain oil will be absorbed into the dirt ahead of time and will not get onto the particularly stressed underside of the tire. Checking the chain to make sure the saw is on the market. How. Excessive heat and wear on the chain and bar can be a consequence. You can clean it with, for example, a narrow screwdriver or other sharp object. The newest chain must be run-in for a few seconds before reaching the tree species.

How to properly tension the chain on the saw

Setting the correct chain tension on the saw. Correct chain tension on the saw is essential

How to properly install the chain on the saw

You can find chains and other accessories at the link:.

Now check if the chain is loose on the guide. Please use work gloves for this. If the chain sags at the bottom, then it is too loose, and you need to tighten the chain with the tensioning screw..

Alternative stand for cutting logs.

The other day I needed to cut about 7 cubes of wood, i.e. cut into hemp.
It is clear that the volume of work is impressive and you cannot do without a special stand.
From the beginning I wanted to make a universal goat, but then I changed my mind.

The main reason for my rejection of this venture was that I alone could not put a heavy log on the box..
And I didn’t really want to do it.
And then, for my luck, an ordinary small bench with dimensions 550 × 340 × 240 mm turned up.

Before using the bench, I reinforced it with braces on both sides..
I turned it over and that’s it, the stand is ready.

How to sharpen a chain cutter?

Now the Internet is full of information on this topic..
I also learned a lot, tried it, experimented.

And in the end I came to the conclusion, if, of course, you do not professionally sharpen the chain, then the best way at the household level, in my subjective opinion, is to sharpen using a regular semicircular file.

Firstly, nothing complicated – a shoe on the inner plane of the tooth and that’s it.

The main thing is to do it in one direction, For example, from yourself.

Secondly, it is absolutely not expensive for money..

In short, 15 minutes of effort and the chain is ready to cut wood again..

Read more:  How to Properly Sharpen a Stihl Chainsaw Chain

Kohl, I touched on the topic of wood, I would also like to share with you my best practices for harvesting firewood for the winter.

The chain is not tensioned on the saw

Compatibility check

Usually the saw chain is changed in case of extreme wear, when sharpening or repairs are no longer useful..

  • When changing any part of the saw, it is advisable to buy a product from the same manufacturer as the tool itself. This guarantees the best fit..
  • It is important to consider the type of tasks to be solved. For heavy loads, 3/8-inch chains are available. If the saw is rarely used, 0.325 ” will suffice..
  • The angle of sharpening of the teeth is of great importance: it is more convenient to cut large volumes of dry wood with cutting edges with a sharpening angle of 30 degrees. For working with damp or frozen material, a sharpening of 10 degrees is more suitable. The same applies to longitudinal sawing – a small sharpening angle in such cases significantly reduces the degree of wear of the cutting device.
  • When choosing the length of the chain, you need to be guided by the dimensions of the tire.

How to chop wood?

In order for firewood to be conveniently chopped, you need to prepare a little for work.

  • The first step is the correct ax (cleaver). Its blade needs to be a strong cleavage wedge compared to a conventional ax, which is mainly used for chipping..

Cleaver – used for splitting-splitting wood, therefore, the shape of the blade is short, wedge-shaped, heavy, with thick cheeks, with a sharpening angle of about 35 °.

  • Ax (handle) length – optimal size 70 cm.
  • The next very important point is where to chop wood.
  • Requires wooden stand (deck).

As a rule, for this they use a fragment of the trunk of strong wood species (hornbeam, oak, ash …)

In terms of size, I can say for sure that the most convenient deck height is 600-650 mm. Diameter must be at least 300 mm.

2 thoughts on “Tensioning a Sagging Saw Chain”

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However, I could not resist commenting on your postscript: take a look at the calendar for 2020 – August will be just 5 Mondays, Saturdays and Sundays)))

Very grateful for the kind words.

On account of the calendar 2020 – someone sent me this information by e-mail.

Fitting the bar to the saw
There is a slot at one end of the tire and two holes on the sides of it. When installing the tire with a slot, put it on a special pin on the saw body, and one of the holes on the pin of the tensioning mechanism.

The second hole on the blade serves to transfer grease from the oil channel to the groove of the tire.

Installing the chain
The chain is pulled over a drive sprocket located on the saw body and over a sprocket at the end of the bar. When installing the chain, you must take into account the correct direction of its rotation, which is usually indicated on the product itself..

After installing the chain, the saw sprocket is closed with a cover, the clamping nut of which is not tightened to the stop so that the bar is not completely clamped.

Chain tension
Adjustment of the chain tension on Chinese saws is carried out using a special tension screw, the head of which has a slot for a screwdriver. It is located at the end of the device body. For tighter chain tension, rotate it clockwise..

The tensioning screw is turned until the chain slack disappears. After that, it is manually scrolled on the tire towards the saw body. This is necessary in order to “straighten” the teeth of the chain in the groove of the bar.

If the chain is loose after spinning, then tighten it again..
After that, the tire is taken by its free end, lifted up to the stop and in this position, the chain slack is again eliminated..

At the last stage, the clamping nut is completely tightened on the casing covering the saw drive sprocket. At the same time, the tire is kept in the “raised” position.
A correctly tensioned chain should be freely removed by hand from the grooves of the tire on its two sides by about 3-4mm, and when lowering, lie back into the grooves.

Checking the tension after work
Once the chain is tensioned, it is only after a little operational testing that you can finally check the quality of its tension. For this purpose, several test cuts are made with it..

It is not uncommon for the chain to loosen after test cuts. This happens when its links were contaminated, and during operation this contamination was dissolved by the lubricant..

If this happens, then the chain must be re-tightened, having previously slightly loosened the clamping nut on the casing and lifting the free end of the bar up. the saw, of course, must be disconnected from the network before this.

At the end of the chain tension adjustment, always check whether it goes in the right direction without tension, whether it is overtightened. To this end, it is unblocked by pressing the start button and pushed forward by the teeth with a screwdriver. If she moves a little by inertia, then everything is fine..

And the last thing. Never adjust the tension of the saw chain when it is hot or not lubricated, otherwise there is a risk of it breaking during subsequent work..

Full video version of recommendations for tensioning the saw chain on the petrol and saw.

A mobile device for cutting wood is an indispensable attribute of almost any summer cottage or private house. Saws are especially popular in this regard, making it possible to work both outdoors and indoors. In order for the tool to work efficiently and properly, from time to time it will be necessary to tighten or change its chain.

Chopped firewood storage.

As you know, firewood is stored in a barn or in the yard..
The best storage method is considered to be a woodpile device..

Woodpiles can be of two types.

  • Freestanding.

That’s it for this article. If you have any questions, please contact through the “Contacts” page, through feedback (blue button on the left) or through comments. I will be happy to answer all questions.

That’s all for sure.
See you in new articles.
Yours faithfully Filippov Yuri.

Repair scheme

You can repair the saw yourself. This is pretty easy to do. This requires the following set of tools:

  • several small files of different sizes;
  • a hook that cleans chips from the slots;
  • flat files.

The chain is best sharpened on the tool bar itself. Editing is done along the edge of the cutting tooth, while taking into account the sharpening angle (from 30 degrees). This operation must be done delicately: if the angle is set incorrectly, this will affect the quality of work and productivity of the tool..

The file is placed perpendicularly during operation (90 degrees in relation to the tire). The whole process takes place in one vector, translational vibrations are performed, you cannot make any rotational movements. After processing the tooth, the chain moves, then another element is ground. After processing all the elements, the “polishing” of the fixing cut begins. In the case when the cut clamps protrude too much, the chain will not “reach” the material – the working process will not occur. And vice versa: if the latches are excessively deepened, then the saw will get stuck in the tree. The stop is straightened using a gauge that is applied to the edge of the cutting teeth. It is important that the bar is flush with the retainer..

If the limiter protrudes too far outward, then it is trimmed with a flat file. In this case, movements are made in one direction at an angle of 90 degrees..

Saw repair: fault diagnosis and elimination

  • Design features and principle of operation
  • Possible malfunctions
  • Disassembly rules
  • Repair scheme
  • Security measures

In a private household it is impossible to do without a saw, which is often extremely necessary for a variety of jobs. This tool is compact and powerful enough to successfully cope with various branches, wooden blanks and other similar elements. To repair a saw with your own hands, you need to have certain knowledge and skills..

Disassembly rules

Disassembling electric saws is an important phase in the repair of this unit, which must be carried out strictly according to the rules. As an example, we will consider the disassembly of a tool from the domestic company Interskol..

  • The flag is detached from the screw, it holds the tire, so the fastening should be made a little weaker.
  • Then the saw chain is also loosened with a device that adjusts the voltage..
  • Then the cover is removed, the bolts are unscrewed.
  • The chain is removed, the bus is removed from the working unit.
  • The “lid” of the working container is removed, where the oil is poured.
  • After all the screws are disconnected, the engine gearbox is removed.
  • The main asterisk is then removed. To do this, it is necessary to remove the main washer, which locks the assembly..
  • The screws are unscrewed, the toothed clamps are dismantled, then the handle is disconnected.
  • After that, the cover is removed..
  • The container with oil is removed.
  • Next, the brake lever is disassembled, which should be pressed slightly until a slight click is heard.
  • The gearbox turns over and is disconnected from the shaft and from the housing.
  • Typically, a significant amount of dirt and dust accumulates under the housing cover. All this substance should be removed by wiping the nodes with a cotton cloth soaked in alcohol.
  • Then the pump is removed from the gearbox, which is responsible for the oil supply.
  • The fixing mechanism responsible for stopping the engine is being disassembled. The fixing spring is removed, the rods are removed. You should also remove the brake band..
  • Fresh grease is applied to the working units.
  • At the end, the brushes are disassembled. To do this, you need to unscrew a few screws..
  • The rotor is removed – the last element.

The assembly of the mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. All phases of disassembly are best filmed and recorded.

Possible malfunctions

There are several possible breakdowns of electric chain saws that you should be aware of..

  • Poor gearbox, which has a rigid coupling with the anchor of the electric engine. As a result, the entire load goes to the power plant. If the chain becomes blunt, then the loads increase, which increases the risk of engine overheating several times. Also, under such conditions, the wear of parts increases sharply. Sharpen the saw regularly and do not apply too much pressure during the production process..
  • Another “weak point” of saws is voltage surges in the network, from which the engine can suffer in the first place. If there is no special protection, then with voltage drops, the power plant may simply fail. Too strong protection also negatively affects the performance of the unit – power drops. The golden mean is important here. Good in this regard are products from the domestic manufacturer Interskol: they have found a rational solution to this issue.
Read more:  Adjusting The Chainsaw "Makita" Carburetor.

If the tool does not function, then it is required first of all to check the presence of current in the network. You should also check:

  • the brake mechanism of the chain itself;
  • the possibility of breakage of the inertial blade;
  • clutch and chain tensioner.

Usually, adjusting the flap allows you to eliminate the defect in a short time. The cable is also checked: damage to it leads to the fact that the unit does not work.

The saw power is significantly reduced if the carbon shields are worn out. The chain can work in jerks: it stops, then it starts to function again. If the circuit serves for a long time, then the risk of such a malfunction will increase. First of all, under such circumstances, the brake tape changes, which has worn out over a period of long operation..

In the event of any malfunction, the saw produces a sharp, strange sound. It occurs due to the lack of lubricants, the ingress of mechanical microparticles into the working unit. In this case, you should disassemble the tool, thoroughly clean all working elements..

Often, the engine of the unit heats up too much, the reasons may be as follows:

  • poor air exchange, clogged air ducts;
  • malfunction of the carburetor;
  • the engine “rests” a little during operation;
  • defective gearbox;
  • old grease;
  • the winding “short-circuits”.

If the saw makes a “curved” cut, then this confirms, first of all, that the teeth are dull.

It is also possible that the tire is about to fail. If the chain does not work, then this indicates a defect in the clutch itself or sprocket..

It should be borne in mind: it is better not to install parts of the Chinese “registration” in the tool, produced by the world’s leading manufacturers. Sooner or later, the device will break down, and it is unlikely there will be an opportunity to restore it. If the body is badly damaged, it is better to send the saw to the service, because this breakdown is very serious.

Measures such as sharpening the saw are also very important. This should be done regularly to keep the engine under minimum stress. If we neglect regular sharpening and do it rarely, then the saw blade will inevitably be drawn in, it will be exposed to too much stress and, in the end, will become unusable ahead of time. You can sharpen yourself, but it is best to take the saw to a service center. They do this work on special equipment. This is done as follows:

  • the chain is removed from the bar and mounted on the guide assembly of the equipment;
  • the chain is tensioned with a ratchet that fixes its cutting tooth;
  • there is a device on the unit that allows you to determine the correct angle (protractor);
  • with the help of an abrasive device, a small layer is removed, which is the final goal of all work;
  • after processing the first tooth, work on the second tooth follows, and so on.

Design features and principle of operation

Units such as a chainsaw and an electric saw are made according to the same principle. They differ only in the design of the drive. In an electric saw, the engine is housed in a PVC casing. It also contains: a gearbox, a container for machine oil, a pump, a chain, etc. This design makes it possible to cope with fairly massive timber of various types.

In the operation of the unit, the quality of the sharpening of the teeth is of great importance, as well as the power of the engine..

The principle of the saws is simple, but you should know how the tool works.

Knots in the chain saw:

  • working saw chain;
  • engine;
  • reducer;
  • drives;
  • oil tank;
  • wiring;
  • body.

A chain is nothing more than a sequential number of links that are fastened together. The chain itself moves along a special plate (often called a “tire”). The material for the tire is selected very high quality, with a high strength factor. In many ways, the operating time of a chainsaw depends on this unit: the better the tire, the better the electric saw.

Tires are of two different types:

  • welded;
  • solid, which have a tip.

The latter are always made of high strength alloys. In fact, any tire is a “puff pie” of various blocks (at least three), while a driven “asterisk” is inserted into the structure.

A single device in which the tip is present is very convenient to use in a tool of large sizes (where the length of the bus is longer than the standard format). One-piece design significantly reduces friction (up to 12%). For work, a unit is best suited where there is a tire made of ultra-strong alloys: they can withstand high mechanical loads and significant heating. Also, strong high-quality alloys do not react to interaction with mechanical microparticles and can serve for a long time..

When working with a saw, it is important to understand that this tool is a source of increased injury hazard. It is possible that a “kickback” may occur, which means that the saw may suddenly bounce to the side and cause injury. Such incidents occur when too much force is applied to the end of the guide bar, which rests on the work material. To ensure that such cases occur as rarely as possible, companies supply the units with a special brake: it blocks the chain automatically.

The automatic chain brake also has a second name – inertial drive. Its work is due to the presence of a protective element (shield). It covers the left hand of the worker. During the labor process, the shield is placed in such a way that it covers the hand. During operation, if a blow occurs, the hand rests against this element, the mechanism stops. Such a device significantly reduces the possibility of injury from the operating mechanism..

Proper lubrication of the chain itself is very important. As a result of heavy loads during the operation of the unit, an inevitably high temperature occurs and the coefficient of friction of materials increases significantly.

There is a special container on the saw, into which machine oil is added. During operation, oil is supplied in portions to the working unit (sprocket, chain). In expensive units (from the firms “Makita”, “Bosch“) there is a special dosimeter of oil supply, which contributes to a more rational consumption of a valuable product and an increase in the productivity of the unit.

There are rules of work that should be followed by both a novice master and a specialist..

  • During operation, the throttle valve must be constantly open..
  • Sawing at 90 degrees away from you is not recommended. The tool should be held at some angle from the body..
  • You should strictly follow all the recommendations that are mentioned in the instructions for using the saw.
  • Components can only be used “native”.
  • Before starting repairs, the tool must be de-energized..
  • It is recommended to carry the tool in a cover.
  • Do not raise the saw above your shoulder during work: it is life-threatening.
  • In the event of a tool wedge in the material, the saw is removed with the utmost care.
  • Fear should be the return impulse, which poses the greatest danger to the worker. When the saw is switched on, it may cause injury..
  • You should be especially careful when working with logs on which there are uncut knots. The probability of jamming in this case is very high..
  • It is impossible to work with an instrument that is not tidied up and not adjusted..
  • At the beginning of work, a small test run should be carried out.
  • An important knot to watch out for is the chain. Loose chain tension will damage the tool and increase the risk of injury..

Security measures

Before starting to work with an electric saw, you should make sure that there are no foreign solid objects: the presence of hard elements can damage the tool. It is necessary to reclaim a defect on the ground, the particles of which can clog the grooves through which the oil enters the operating units. Lack of regular lubrication will kill the tool in a very short time. The tool wedge should be carefully monitored: overheating of the metal leads to a loss of performance characteristics, which means that the tool life is sharply reduced. It is very simple to determine that the saw needs sharpening: if the shavings “come out” are too small and there is a bloom of dark color on it, then this indicates that the saw “dulls”.

The explanation for this phenomenon is simple: the saw cannot cut the material and crumbles it, so small fragments appear. There should be no radii on the saw head, that is, fragments with torn out areas. The shape of the teeth and the working cutting edge must be unchanged.

Before starting repair work, it is important to make a preventive inspection and correct diagnosis of the tool. The complexity of the repair directly depends on the severity of the breakdown. It often happens that it is impossible to “resolve the issue” on your own. There are breakdowns where special equipment is required. In such circumstances, the tool must be returned to a specialized service center, which has the appropriate approvals and certificates for the repair of such equipment..

In the next video, you are waiting for the repair of the chain saw gearbox.