The chainsaw does not cut under load and stalls
- Clogged air filter. It is necessary to take out the filter, clean it well or even rinse it, dry it and put it back.
- Incorrect proportion of oil / gasoline mixture. Drain fuel and re-mix oil and gasoline in the correct proportion.
Why does the chainsaw get hot? The engine or the tire can warm up – in any case, a small amount of lubricant is to blame.
- Overheating of the engine. Incorrect proportion of fuel mixture or pure gasoline in general. Drain the fuel and mix with the correct proportions of oil and gasoline, as indicated by the manufacturer.
- Overheating of the tire. It is necessary to clean or adjust the oil pump, because no oil is supplied to the tire.
Chainsaw won’t start
If there are difficulties with starting a chainsaw, many immediately sin on the carburetor. In fact, there are several options and the cause of the malfunction can be any:
- Clogged air and / or fuel filters. The problem is solved by cleaning the filters.
- Lack of fuel in the tank. Yes, there is such a reason – some owners forget about such an insignificant detail as refueling a chainsaw and think that a couple of liters of gasoline will last for six months. In addition, the fuel in the tank should not be stored for more than 14 days, because gasoline evaporates and octane number is lost.
- Check the pipe from the fuel tank to the carburetor – it could be clogged or cut off, so gasoline does not enter the tank.
- No spark on spark plug. Why there is no spark – there can be many reasons: there is no contact, you need to change the candle or it is flooded. Why pours a candle on a chainsaw is another question. But if this happens, you need to dry and reinstall, and then check for a spark. If the spark plug is heavily soaked, it is recommended to replace it..
- Check muffler for carbon deposits. If there is carbon deposits, thoroughly clean the muffler, but it is still recommended to take the chainsaw to a service center to check the cylinder and piston there, because carbon deposits are a sure sign of improper operation of precisely the elements of the cylinder-piston group.
- The carburetor is clogged. How to properly adjust the chainsaw so that the carburetor works well was discussed in a separate article..
If none of the above methods helped, then the reason is more serious – the breakdown of one of the nodes of the connecting rod-piston group. In this case, it is recommended to take the chainsaw to a service center..
Chainsaw saws to the side
When sawing, you will notice that the cut is uneven. Why does the chainsaw cut crooked? There are several reasons:
- Incorrect chain sharpening. The teeth are sharpened at the wrong angle or in one direction only. Correct sharpening required.
- Incorrect chain. At very high revs, the difference of even 0.2-0.3 mm between the width of the groove or the width of the landing will be visible, which is why the chainsaw cuts to the side. An appropriate circuit must be installed.
- Uneven tire wear. Over time, the tire wears out on one side and then the chain is pulled to the side. Flip the tire regularly so that the wear is even on both sides. If the wear is too great, replace the tire.
Stalls at maximum speed and works only on suction
- Clogged air or fuel filter. Seals need to be cleaned and checked.
- The breather is clogged and because of this, fuel does not flow and the pumping of gasoline on the chainsaw does not work. Take the needle and gently clean the breather.
- Fuel pump malfunction. Remove the pump and check if gasoline is oozing out of it. If oozing – replace the gasket or the pump itself.
Stalls and does not work at idle:
- The muffler is clogged. It is necessary to remove carbon deposits.
- Lost carburetor settings. Idling adjustment is required on the chainsaw. It is carried out using the adjusting bolts marked L and H. How to adjust the idle speed, see the article on adjusting the carburetor.
The chain does not cut
The decrease in the performance of the chainsaw is associated with the bluntness of the chain teeth. This is the most common problem because sharpening should be done regularly. How to do this using a machine, file or angle grinder, read the corresponding article.
- I do not like
Gapan 06 November 2015
On the saw itself. There, the development must be visible to the naked eye. Change in the complex. You remove the retaining ring, washer, sprocket. There the bearing is small, it is also for replacement. You look at the state of the pin on which the sprocket sits, they should rotate together without backlash. The sprocket on the bus usually has a long resource, but I change the leading one after 3 chains. There are craftsmen who restore the old presenters, welding a layer of metal on the top and then sharpening it carefully, but I think that it is unrealistic to maintain the tolerances in an artisanal way. This is benzo, experiments are deplorable, when the chain breaks, then the ass becomes like a nut.
Saw chain tension problem
- I do not like
Gapan 05 November 2015
Dima, don’t be in a hurry to change the chain, although you will have to. At 180 calm I had the same trouble. I tightened the tension screw all the way, the chain was like a string, and after 5 minutes it sagged again. I even changed the screw to a longer one in order to increase the tension step, but the trouble turned out to be in the bearing and the sprocket. If the saw has already been running, then the development on the sprocket will be visible in the form of grooves, but you will not always see the backlash. After replacing this unit, be sure to a new chain. Compare it with the old one, my Santa was 7 different. You cannot solve the issue with one chain – it will pull, and then tear, I vomited 3 times, ugh, ugh, everything was about Bosch. Yes, even a chain to a string is not a buzz.
Post modified: Gapan (05 Nov 2015 – 09:29)
- I do not like
mazatrucker74rus 21 October 2015
And there are no problems in the interlink connection? Are all links alive relative to each other? There is no other chain to try ?
- I do not like
Apprentice 21 October 2015
Have you looked at the asterisk at the end of the tire? It seems that its end has come, the bearing has collapsed. and for this there is a large longitudinal backlash. From this and the tension dances cyclically. If you guessed right, then it is treated by replacing the tire., and by the way it needs to be smeared often.
I don’t understand what has fallen off, the shooting angle is not good, it’s hard to understand what’s what.
If it becomes necessary to shorten
Often in the forest or on a remote jobsite, you will not be able to find a replacement for your extended chain.
After taking into account all the tips, and making sure of the need to shorten the chain, it is important to know the sequence of actions and possible replacement methods.
There are not so many of them and depend on how many links need to be removed, and in what conditions the repair will be carried out..
This is important to know: the chainsaw chain consists of cutters and connecting links, which are riveted at the factory. The shortened chain should be connected in the same way, but using homemade rivets.
Each link (cutter and links connecting them) has two such rivets. In case of damage to nearby “native” connecting links, you can use elements from any other similar chain of any, even automotive, equipment. You just need to adjust the profile with a file, especially from the bottom, where it has a small groove.
Chainsaw chain diagram
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The easiest way is to take a long chain, in which several segments can be removed without any problems. So, at least, it becomes possible to use the native links. They are removed with a hacksaw for metal, but it is better to use emery.
Initially, you need to grind off unnecessary rivets, and then cut off the excess area. To do this, you need to pry off with a knife and knock out rivets from unnecessary links using a homemade punch.
- I do not like
Sergey 21 October 2015
a new star costs like 450 rubles and 150 replacements. I myself had a similar one with a chain, it passed by itself, I did not understand the reasons, but I learned from the star in the service.
Is it always necessary to repair the chain?
Chainsaw chain slack is not always a reason to repair it. You must first make sure that it is completely not subject to tension (adjustment).
Here are some typical cases:
- Chain stretching.
- Inconsistency of the new existing circuit with a short bus.
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Chain stretching due to prolonged use is typical. During operation, the metal of the chain heats up, and the links gradually stretch due to the expansion of the metal in volume. That is, the chain stretches every time, which can sometimes be eliminated by partially reducing the cutting time. However, this is not a way out when she has to work intensively all shift in industrial conditions or when harvesting firewood for the winter..
Another circumstance that does not allow normal operation of the saw, even with a new chain, is the discrepancy in length. This can happen only when buying inattentive users, or is caused by the lack of the required chain at the moment. Which, in principle, is not so dangerous, since you can always find a way out of the situation by manually shortening it. At the same time, the strength of the connection of the chain links will remain at a sufficiently high level..
Chain tension adjustment
Chains are usually tensioned manually using the saw’s tensioning bolt located in the area of the bumpers..
Using a straight screwdriver installed on the bar and the drive sprocket, the chain is gradually tightened after closing the side cover.
It is not worth pulling the chainsaw chain all the way, as you run the risk of stretching the links again soon. Usually a small amount of chain pull is left, checked by hand. It should give in slightly to bend off the tire by about a millimeter..
Usually the saw chain is changed in case of extreme wear, when sharpening or repairs are no longer useful..
- When changing any part of the saw, it is advisable to buy a product from the same manufacturer as the tool itself. This guarantees the best fit..
- It is important to consider the type of tasks to be solved. For heavy loads, 3/8-inch chains are available. If the saw is rarely used, 0.325 ” will suffice..
- The angle of sharpening of the teeth is of great importance: it is more convenient to cut large volumes of dry wood with cutting edges with a sharpening angle of 30 degrees. For working with damp or frozen material, a sharpening of 10 degrees is more suitable. The same applies to longitudinal sawing – a small sharpening angle in such cases significantly reduces the degree of wear of the cutting device.
- When choosing the length of the chain, you need to be guided by the dimensions of the tire.
Tips: how to quickly tension the chain on the saw
A mobile device for cutting wood is an indispensable attribute of almost any summer cottage or private house. Saws are especially popular in this regard, making it possible to work both outdoors and indoors. In order for the tool to work efficiently and properly, from time to time it will be necessary to tighten or change its chain.
How to properly install the chain on the saw
The procedure for installing a new chain has some peculiarities, depending on the type of tension on a particular tool..
On tools with lateral tension, proceed as follows:
- Release the brake. This is achieved by pulling on the protective strip until it clicks..
- Loosen the tension. To do this, turn the tension screw with a screwdriver, after which the clamping nut will begin to rotate freely.
- Lift up the cover under which the saw elements are located. To remove the chain, it must be removed from the sprocket guides (at the same time, the guide bar is dismantled). If this fails, loosen the tensioning screw even more..
- It is more convenient to start the installation of a new component from the top of the tire. It is put on over the sprocket, after which the tire can be inserted back, focusing on the guides.
- A tension screw is used to tighten the chain: it should sag slightly.
- The final clamping of the nut is carried out after replacing the protective cover..
The sequence for installing a new chain on tools with “quick tension”:
- The first step is to remove the saw from the brake..
- Open the nut handle until it stops..
- The purpose of the wing nut in such structures is not only to fix the shield, but also to clamp the guide rail. You need to rotate the nut counterclockwise.
- After removing the protective casing from the sprocket, you need to move the tire in the opposite direction. This will allow the old chain to be dismantled. The driven sprocket is freed from it first..
- When refueling a new product, they also start with an asterisk. At this stage, it is important to understand the direction of installation: at the bottom of the tire, its cutting edge should “look” into the tool body.
- Tension is set by adjusting the guide.
- After installing the sprocket cover, the fastening nut must be tightened, but not clamped.
- The wing nut is screwed in by hand at the very end of the procedure, following the tension wheel.
Features of chain tension adjustment
During the operation of an electric saw, it is necessary to carefully monitor the degree of tension of its chain. The easiest way is to pull the chain tooth upwards (the top of the bar is selected for testing, approximately in the center). The normal tension level allows 1/3 of the point to remain inside the seat during tension (provided that the chain rotates freely by hand).
To adjust the chain tension in different models of Makita saws, screw or wing nut tensioners can be used:
- In the first case, you will need a screwdriver to tighten the tension screw: its rotation is allowed to be carried out with the side nuts relaxed. In the course of increasing the tension, it is necessary to turn the chain forward to eliminate the hinge backlash and check the smoothness of its movement..
- On “quick pull” tools, the sprocket guard is secured with a wing nut. There is a special wheel under the cover: to tighten the chain, turn it to the right, to loosen it – to the left. This type of tensioner is more convenient, as it makes it possible to carry out the adjustment directly in the course of work..
It is not necessary to go to a service center to replace the chain on the saw or to adjust its tension. These manipulations can be carried out independently, following the recommendations presented above..
Do-it-yourself saw chain sharpening
It is best to entrust the restoration of the cutting headset to a professional service center. If this is not possible, then you can sharpen the saw chain yourself.
To do this, the gardener will need a kit that includes:
- a round file with approximate lines applied to it;
- flat file required for adjusting the depth gauge;
- calibration device;
- mandrel required to select the correct angle.
When filing the teeth with a round file, the operator must constantly ensure that its surface protrudes no more than 1/5 of its length above the chain teeth. It is best to mark the first tooth to be treated in advance so that you do not sharpen it again later. All operator movements must be strictly in the same direction.
After processing each tooth, it is necessary to proceed to the restoration of its limiter. To do this, you need to attach a calibration device to its edge. As a result, the end piece should be located next to the stop. Otherwise, the stop will need to be trimmed with a flat file. Thus, the calibrator must be perpendicular to the saw bar..
In addition to special kits, there are machines for self-sharpening of the cutting body on sale. They are divided into manual and electric. A simpler device stands out for manual devices that resemble a jigsaw or a frame. To sharpen the chain with their help, the user must fix the tire in a special vice – this will make it possible to comfortably handle each of the worn teeth.
Electric machines can only be used in garages or other areas with access to electricity. Among the advantages of these devices are the ability to sharpen different types of cutting bodies, precise adjustment of the pitch and depth of cut, as well as the choice of the correct cutting angle..
To work on an electric machine, the gardener must sharpen the first cutting tooth. After that, you need to set the parameters for restoring the headset for the first tooth and start sharpening the rest of the teeth..
How to put the chain on the saw correctly?
Most often, a side tensioner is provided in the saw device for the possibility of self-assembly by the operator of a new cutting device. To install a chain on a saw with such a mechanism, its owner must follow these steps:
- When lowering the brake lever, move the plastic shield of the operator’s protection with the other hand;
- Gently turn the built-in tension screw with a screwdriver;
- Unscrew the nut to loosen the tension on the cutter;
- Carefully dismantle the tool housing cover;
- Remove the metal guide from the sprocket;
- Dismantle the worn out old chain;
- Place the chain on the guide and place the cutters back on the saw.
Chainsaw Chain Will Not Move? CHECK THIS OUT!
The saw chain tension should be smooth without jerking. To do this, slowly pull up the headset, install the protective plastic saw cover, and tighten the saw body with a nut and screw.
The chain is installed on saws of some modifications using built-in wing nuts, which allow you to quickly put and tighten the headset. Replacing the chain on a saw with this type of attachment should be as follows:
- First, the operator will need to lower the brake lever, unscrew the locking nut and remove the factory protective cover;
- Next, you need to move the guide back and carefully remove the old headset;
- After that, you will need to install a new chain, putting it first on the sprocket, and then along the entire length of the guide;
- Then it remains to install the built-in sprocket in its original place and tighten the nut tightly.
At the end, the operator must turn the tension wheel in the direction indicated by the arrow, and tighten the standard “wing” to the end.
How to choose a saw chain?
To select the best cutting attachment for a particular saw, the gardener needs to study several important parameters and chain criteria:
- length – must necessarily correspond to the length of the installed metal guide. Some novice users try to fit shortened cutters to the tires of their tools, believing that over time they will still stretch and fit tightly onto the tire. This is a big mistake as the length of the rail and the new headset must be the same. If the chain sags as a result of operation, then it is easy to shorten it by removing several links;
- factory-sharpened angle – parts sharpened at an angle of 30⁰ are easier to tolerate increased loads. For regular work with frozen and damp wood, headsets with an angle of 10⁰ will be most effective;
- manufacturer – in order for the cutting body to fit perfectly on the tire, you need to choose the products of the manufacturer’s brand of the installed guide and the saw itself. For example, Makita saws and tires should be made from the same manufacturer..
To choose a saw chain. the owner of the machine must consider the purpose for which the cutting attachment will be used. For cutting relatively coarse wood, 3/8 “pitch chains are suitable. If the loads are not high, then for installation on a power tool, it is better to choose cutting attachments with a pitch of 0.325 ″.
Chainsaw Chain Will Not Move? Try this First- Quick Tip
As with chainsaws, the main working parts of an electric garden tool are a bar and a chain. The performance of the chain saw, the volume of fuel it regularly consumes, as well as the quality of the mowing line for cutting wood largely depend on their quality and technical parameters. In order to constantly maintain the stable operation of a garden tool, its owner must study the rules for choosing, installing, maintaining and repairing a cutting set. This will keep the bar and saw chain in order until the end of their service life..
The chain does not spin on the saw – reasons and repair methods
The most common cause of this breakdown is a factory defect or wear on the plastic gear sprocket to which the saw bar is attached. During operation, the drive star is the first to take on the load, which is transmitted by the saw’s power unit. Over time, her teeth lick off. After that, the motor and other important mechanisms of the electric garden tool begin to overheat..
When the first signs of a saw malfunction are found, the chainring should be replaced immediately. To do this, you need to disassemble the tool and carefully remove the worn part. Then you need to clean the place under it from the remnants of the old fluid, and install a new star. At the end, the part will need to be abundantly lubricated with thick oil..
In some cases, it is not the built-in asterisk that fails, but the elements located next to it. High stress components include clutch cup, spring, bearing and cam. As a rule, these parts cannot be repaired, so the operator will need to replace the defective parts without waiting for the other parts of the saw to fail..
In order to prevent increased wear of the drive parts in the future, you need to constantly monitor their condition and the amount of lubricant. The user of the garden saw must inspect the gear and gearbox at least once a month and, if necessary, clean them and change the lubricant..