The nut on the angle grinder does not unscrew what to do

Chinim

There are several methods available to eject a disc:

• Saw or break the disc. You don’t even need to break it, but just grind it down to the landing sleeve. Then the nut should be unscrewed without effort with an ordinary universal wrench from an angle grinder;
• Gas key. Physics will work here, you just increase the lever, which means the applied force will be greater. Work carefully and do not twist the rotation lock;
• Perforator. The tool is transferred to the hammer mode, that is, without rotation. The 6mm drill should be pressed against the flange end. The power of the hammer drill should be enough to move the nut. The angle grinder itself must be securely fixed, and the spindle rotation must be blocked;
• Heat. The problem with this method is that it can ruin the instrument. Use a gas burner or hair dryer to heat the nut. The metal will change the volume. Then unscrew the nut with the Allen key. Open-end wrench
• Take a 17 mm open-end wrench and grind off the walls so that their thickness is 4 mm. 4 lugs should be carved on the face of the socket head so that they coincide with the holes in the flange. Place the key under the disc. Put the socket on the nut and turn in the direction of rotation of the disc.

With a hammer drill in jackhammer mode

The hammer drill must be switched to the chiseling mode without rotation. A 6 mm drill must be placed on the end of the flange or rest against the edge of the hole. The task is to unscrew the nut, to move it from its place. After that, unscrew it with your hands or with a key. During work, you need to block the rotation of the spindle.

Reasons for biting

As a rule, this problem occurs on an angle grinder with a working surface diameter in the range of 150-180 mm. When a strong torque occurs, the disc bites. This leads to the fact that the attachment cannot be removed with a conventional wrench, even with the application of serious physical effort.

The second common reason is the use of a disc for an angle grinder that does not correspond to the factory parameters of the tool. This leads to a disruption in the operation of the entire mechanism and jamming. In rare cases, the nut does not lend itself to loosening when rust appears on its threads. This most often occurs during prolonged use of the instrument or storage without changing the nozzle.

Important! Angle grinder discs are available in standard sizes, with diameters ranging from 115 to 230 mm. The landing shaft itself is produced with a diameter of 22.2 mm; when using older models, an adapter is required.

We do not break

In order not to bother with how to unscrew the nut, you can make sure that everything works fine in advance:

• Place cardboard washers under the disc and between the stone and the flange;
• Attach the stone correctly, with the marked side (where the label is) to the flange, not the nut;
• Weld a regular hex nut to the flange and work with a standard wrench.

And most importantly, when working with the tool, be careful and careful, take your time, control the tightening force. A calmly placed disc will never require additional measures to dismantle it from the tool.

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an angle grinder, or an angle grinder, is a versatile tool with which you can perform a wide range of actions. It has a simple mechanism of action based on the rotation of the shaft by an electric motor. Essential for cutting metal parts, polishing surfaces and sanding various materials. One of the common problems during operation of an angle grinder is biting the nut that holds the disc. This does not allow replacing the nozzle, and strong impact can damage its threads, break a key or break the body.

Warming up

The clamping nut must be heated with a hot air gun or gas burner to make the metal more pliable. Then unscrew it with the universal wrench or by hand. But the risk of this method is that you can ruin plastic parts and gearbox elements.

DOMOSTROY Plumbing and construction

• Thursday, 12 December 2019 1:08
• Author: Sereg985
• Comment

• Category: Construction
• http://firmmy.ru/

The angle grinder is a multifunctional but capricious tool that does not tolerate haste and negligence. Breakdowns and breakdowns are the result of careless handling or safety violations. And the most common problem when working with an angle grinder is jamming of the abrasive tool between the support flange and the clamping nut. How to unscrew a disc on an angle grinder without damaging parts and the tool itself?

Disk destruction

Before unscrewing the nut on the angle grinder, you will have to completely crumble the disc. If it is already destroyed, you can break it with your hands. Solid circles can be sawn with a hacksaw or a metal blade. The inner metal ring and pieces that do not lend themselves to mechanical stress should remain from the abrasive wheel. Then you need to clamp a metal profile or any unnecessary plate in a vice, the thickness of which is less than or equal to the thickness of the disc (but not more). Then switch on the angle grinder and grind off the remaining abrasive to the seat sleeve. After that, the flange can be easily unscrewed with the universal angle grinder wrench.

You can take care in advance that the tool does not get jammed in the angle grinder:

• cut washers out of cardboard or plastic and place one under the disc and the other between the disc and the flange. Even if the circle gets stuck, the plastic washer will melt when heated;
• the face of the abrasive tool, to which the marking label is affixed, must be in contact with the support flange and not with the clamping nut. With this installation, the metal ring of the circle acts as a washer and protects it from jamming;
• weld a standard hex nut onto the flange and unscrew it with a regular wrench;
• If possible, the angle grinder wrench should only be used to loosen the clamping nut. When installing a new tool, it is better to tighten it manually or at least control the tightening force.

An angle grinder (Angle grinder) is probably the most common household repair tool. Both experienced builders and beginners use it. This machine has one whim. sometimes a nut (disk) wedges in it. Often this trouble is the result of haste or carelessness to the device. Let’s figure out how to unscrew the nut and remove the stone (disk) without damaging the tool.

How to avoid snacking?

To avoid trouble when changing the angle grinder attachment, it is advisable to prepare in advance for work. To do this, you can insert a small spacer between the disc and the nut. Suitable material is cardboard, a piece of linoleum or plastic.

If the fastener is constantly tightening too tightly, it is advisable to use a circle with a smaller diameter. It is also important to monitor the cleanliness of the tool, timely treat the thread with oil, WD-40.

How to Change a Grinder Wheel | 4 Different Ways

Reasons for biting

As a rule, this problem occurs on an angle grinder with a working surface diameter in the range of 150-180 mm. When a strong torque occurs, the disc bites. This leads to the fact that the attachment cannot be removed with a conventional wrench, even with the application of serious physical effort.

The second common reason is the use of a disc for an angle grinder that does not correspond to the factory parameters of the tool. This leads to a disruption in the operation of the entire mechanism and jamming. In rare cases, the nut does not lend itself to loosening when rust appears on its threads. This most often occurs during long-term use of the instrument or storage without changing the nozzle.

Important! Angle grinder discs are available in standard sizes, with diameters ranging from 115 to 230 mm. The landing shaft itself is produced with a diameter of 22.2 mm; when using older models, an adapter is required.

How to avoid snacking?

To avoid trouble when changing the angle grinder attachment, it is advisable to prepare in advance for work. To do this, you can insert a small spacer between the disc and the nut. Suitable material is cardboard, a piece of linoleum or plastic.

If the fastener is constantly tightening too tightly, it is advisable to use a circle with a smaller diameter. It is also important to monitor the cleanliness of the tool, timely treat the thread with oil, WD-40.

With a gas wrench

The shoulder when using the gas wrench increases, therefore, the moment of force also increases. It is easier to unscrew stuck joints with such a tool. But if you try too hard, you risk crushing the flange or breaking the spindle rotation lock.

Disc destruction

Before unscrewing the nut on the angle grinder, you will have to completely crumble the disc. If it is already destroyed, you can break it with your hands. Solid circles can be sawn with a hacksaw or a metal blade. The inner metal ring and pieces that do not lend themselves to mechanical stress should remain from the abrasive wheel. Then you need to clamp a metal profile or any unnecessary plate in a vice, the thickness of which is less than or equal to the thickness of the disc (but not more). Then switch on the angle grinder and grind off the remaining abrasive to the seat sleeve. After that, the flange can be easily unscrewed with the universal angle grinder wrench.

You can take care in advance so that the tool does not get caught in the angle grinder:

• cut washers out of cardboard or plastic and place one under the disc and the other between the disc and the flange. Even if the circle gets stuck, the plastic washer will melt when heated;
• the face of the abrasive tool, to which the marking label is affixed, must be in contact with the support flange and not with the clamping nut. With this installation, the metal ring of the circle acts as a washer and protects it from jamming;
• weld a standard hex nut onto the flange and unscrew it with a regular wrench;
• If possible, the angle grinder wrench should only be used to loosen the clamping nut. When installing a new tool, it is better to tighten it manually or at least control the tightening force.

an angle grinder, or as it is called more popularly and in a popular way, an angle grinder, nowadays an irreplaceable and very useful tool. Without him, neither here nor there! And if it suddenly fails, then you have to dodge in every possible way, look for alternatives and think about restoring the instrument. At the same time, it is impossible to use an angle grinder for its intended purpose because of what seems to be a simple lining when the disc cannot be unscrewed. Rather, the nut that holds this disc is not unscrewed. Here you can “break the wood”, namely, bend or break the key, damage the lock button, break the case, but never unscrew that same unfortunate nut. So, we will warn you right away, if it is not too late. If you suddenly do not unscrew the nut holding the disc with a key, then you need to change your tactics. And it is precisely the cardinal method of unscrewing that our article will be devoted.

Warming up

The clamping nut must be heated with a hot air gun or gas burner to make the metal more pliable. Then unscrew it with the universal wrench or by hand. But the risk of this method is that you can ruin plastic parts and gearbox elements.

The nut on the angle grinder does not unscrew what to do

an angle grinder, or an angle grinder, is a versatile tool with which you can perform a wide range of actions. It has a simple mechanism of action based on the rotation of the shaft by an electric motor. Essential for cutting metal parts, polishing surfaces and sanding various materials. One of the common problems during operation of an angle grinder is biting the nut that holds the disc. This does not allow replacing the nozzle, and strong impact can damage its threads, break a key or break the body.

With open-end wrench and socket head

Grind the working surface of the 17 key to 4 mm in thickness. On the surface of the 24 mm socket, grind 4 protrusions so that they fall into the holes of the flange.

The open-end wrench must be placed under the disc. Put the socket head on the nut of the angle grinder and turn it with a ratchet in the direction of rotation of the wheel.

Unscrewing the hub nut on the VAZ: “burn, beat and twist!

Now we will consider the methods that may be the only effective in your case, but from this they are no less radical, even barbaric.

Khimichim

Now we will consider ways for those who do not rely on the help of physics, but want to solve the problem with the help of chemistry. Your laboratory should have: kerosene, white spirit, acidified sulfuric acid, zinc, plasticine, hammer, water, sandpaper, wrench, chisel.

Attributes of the chemical method for loosening the nut

With kerosene (experienced people recommend making a mixture of White Spirit and kerosene) we moisten the nut and bolt, applying a tampon to them, no matter what, cotton or gauze. After some time. from an hour to a day, and with repeated attempts, you may find that the hub nut can be easily unscrewed. But even here you can’t do without force: at least, you will probably have to work with sandpaper to clean the parts from rust. If after this the matter does not go well, you should help with a hammer: knock them on the edges of the hub nut.

If in this case you did not succeed, make a small container of plasticine, fix the hub nut on top, pour water with sulfuric acid into it, put zinc in the container. A chemical reaction starts that does a very good job with rust. Usually a day is enough for even running corrosion to release the part. Finish the job with the wrench. But this method is valid only if the reason that the nut is firmly stuck and / or rusted, and if it was simply pulled over, neglecting the required tightening torque (in order “for sure”), then you just need to chick it.

Burner use

The law of physics is guaranteed to work, and the body (read: hub nut) will expand. And this will greatly facilitate the removal of the stubborn part. There is one “but”: not only this one part is heated, but everything else, in the area of ​​the burner. For example, a bearing. And this is better not to be allowed. As a more gentle option, we can suggest using a soldering iron and. patience. You will need it.

The hub nut does not unscrew what to do

Jumping on the lever

A chisel will help to break the hub nut

The “method” is fraught with the danger of unexpected breakage of nut edges, key breakage, and so on. Just don’t do it like that.

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Many will agree that unscrewing the hub nut is one of the activities that can be punished in court, it is too inconvenient, difficult even for a physically strong person with all the necessary set of tools. Nevertheless, since it is not always possible to choose the easiest one (option First, aka the Main!). sending the car to the service station, where they will not only unscrew it, but also make subsequent repairs. Then you will have to deal with the task on your own, and using the easiest and most effective method.

Remove the nut from the car: power method

• Lever from the pipe (length not less than one and a half meters).
• Powerful socket wrench (450 mm.).
• Corresponding head.

We put the head of the key on the nut of the hub, insert the knob and push the pipe onto the handle. Gradually increasing the applied forces, we turn the part away.

As experienced car enthusiasts say, few hub nuts can resist for a long time if you use a “Zilovsky” balloon!

How to unscrew a torn bolt

Replacing the rear wheel bearing VAZ 2111

How to Unscrew a Hub Nut. The Gentle Way

• Tubular socket wrench. “knob”. The tool must be made of high strength steel.
• Powerful screwdriver.
• Iron pipe.
• WD-40.
• Metal brush.

• We clean the thread from dirt using a brush with metal bristles. Now saturate the hub nut with penetrating grease. For example, WD-40.
• We saturate the hub with a penetrating mixture. You can rest for 10-15 minutes, and then you should put the head of the key on the nut and hit it with a hammer several times, gradually increasing the impact force. Just do not overdo it: the point of this action is to make a slight deformation of the nut, due to this it will be easier to remove it. And immediately after the blows, you should try to unscrew the hub nut on a VAZ or a car of another brand.

Instructions:

• Wet the rusted nut well and wait 15-30 minutes. After the allotted time, take the wrench and try to turn the nut. If it does not work, then the liquid has not penetrated deep enough. Try wetting again, but this time with a napkin or a strip of rag, and then wrap the nut. So the liquid will last longer on the metal and will be able to dissolve the rust better.
• After carrying out a similar procedure, the nut will gradually begin to move. Unscrewing can be accelerated by knocking with a hammer. Then take the key (if possible, lengthen it, for example, with a piece of pipe), fix it securely on the nut and try to rip it off the thread with a very sharp jerk. If the nut is small, then it is better to unscrew the pump (back and forth).

Finding the right tool

To successfully unscrew a rusted nut, you must first collect the tools that will help you in this matter:

• Spanner key.
• Socket wrench.
• Heads with a knob.
• Mechanical wrench.

Do not use force to move a tightly seized nut! Such an impact will only lead to a breakdown of the thread, cutting off the faceted part, and often even to a breakdown of the tool. First of all, you need to help the case with the help of a hexagon spanner. Open-end wrench should not be used.

About safety

Read these important safety points before unscrewing a rusty nut:

• Do not use a damaged instrument in any way.
• The nut is always loosened counterclockwise.
• The tool on the part must be securely fixed.
• Use special household gloves to avoid injury.

So, if the nut is rusty, how do you unscrew it? We offer you several effective methods.

How to unscrew torn off bolts, nuts, screws

Sooner or later, any owner is faced with a situation where a nut, bolt or self-tapping screw does not want to twist. There are several reasons for this: low quality metal, violation of technology (overheated self-tapping screws), rust, time, too much effort applied when tightening the connection. Nevertheless, it is possible to unscrew the bolt with the torn off edges, the lapped nut, the rusted joint. In this article, we’ll talk about how to do it.

How to unscrew a rusty nut: 3 effective ways

The inability to unscrew a rusted nut is a fairly common problem in many areas, the main cause of which is the formation of rust on the metal surface. The reason for such formations is the reaction of metal with oxygen in a humid environment.

In the process of corrosion formation, there is a manifold increase in the oxidation product (rust). As a result, the nut and bolt merge tightly together. The acidification of metals can be so strong that when you try to turn the nut, it will be easy to break the bolt.

Contamination can also be the cause of difficult unscrewing. Small particles of metal shavings and dust remain on the thread surface. When the nut is tightened, dirt becomes an additional obstacle. As a result, the threaded surfaces of the bolt and nuts are seized.

wax cup

Rusty nut. how to unscrew? Another way: from plasticine or wax, mold a shape that resembles a mini-cup in outline. In this case, its sides in height should be several millimeters higher than the edges of the nut. Pour sulfuric acid into the “cup” and put a small particle of zinc. You will cause the effect of the so-called galvanic cell: acid will destroy rust, and iron cations will help restore zinc. As a result, the nut can be unscrewed without damaging the part with acid.

How to unscrew a nut: 55 effective recommendations

How to unscrew the nut? We recommend effective approaches for difficult situations and a variety of nuts.

In this article, we will talk about how to unscrew a stuck nut, a rusty nut, a nut with stripped edges or completely round. Separately analyzed cases with non-standard nuts. plastic and large size.

The material also describes the most suitable tool, incl. special tool professionally used for working with fasteners.

The material is useful for those who intend to unscrew the fasteners of the engine crankshaft, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and on other components and assemblies of a car, motorcycle or other equipment.

Recommendations for household use will also be useful.

How to unscrew the nut

As a rule, the nuts are unscrewed with hand-held locksmith tools. box or open-end wrenches, heads using a wrench or ratchet. However, problem situations often occur.

How to unscrew a nut when the nut cannot be unscrewed with an ordinary tool with the usual application of forces? In this situation, it follows from the available tool to choose the one that suits best:

• thin short open-end wrenches, especially those with a too loose (broken) jaw, are the worst option, which it is better to abandon immediately in a situation with unscrewing rusty stuck nuts (open-end wrenches will lead to torn edges and further difficulties);
• spanners with an extended handle are preferable to open-end wrenches, since they cover the perimeter of the nut more tightly;
• A 6-sided box wrench or socket is preferred over 12-sided versions;
• the wrench, due to its simplicity and strength, is preferable to a ratchet, because for the latter, the application of increased forces can lead to damage to the mechanism (this is especially true for ratchets with a large number of teeth, each of which is smaller and not so strong);
• the impact wrench will do better than hand tools;
• in combination with a long crank or pneumatic impact wrench, the best solution would be the Super Lock head, in which the force is applied not to the corners (edges), but to the planes, which eliminates the licking of the nut edges;
• a torque amplifier (multiplier) will help to apply a force to a large stuck nut that is inaccessible when using only the physical capabilities of a person.

Which way to unscrew the nut

In the vast majority of cases, the fasteners have the right thread direction: you need to unscrew the nut counterclockwise (we look at the nut from the side of the free threaded end of the bolt or stud, through which it is necessary to drive the nut).

Accordingly, unscrew the nut with a left-hand thread clockwise.

When deciding in which direction to unscrew the nut, it is enough to carefully look at the fasteners:

• from the side you can see the inclination of the threads at a small angle. unscrew the nut in the direction to which the thread “rises”;
• even if the threaded part is not visible, you can see the desired direction along the end part of the nut at the exit of the last turn of its internal thread.

How to unscrew a stuck nut

In order to unscrew the stuck nut, we recommend performing several preliminary preparatory operations:

• clean the fasteners from rust and dirt with a metal brush;
• tap the nut in a circle with a hammer without damaging its edges and open threads.

When deciding how to unscrew a stuck nut, it is necessary to take into account several possible ways, based on the actual state and availability of fasteners for the tool, the composition and parameters of the existing tool, the expediency of destroying the nut itself or the threaded part on which it is fixed.

The following options are possible to unscrew the stuck nut:

• apply heating of the nut (preferably red and multiple times);
• apply a penetrating compound (WD-40, liquid wrench or their analogs) into the slot of contact of a nut with a thread of a bolt (stud), withstand the time required for the drug to work (from 20 minutes or more from the state of the fastener and the activity of the agent);
• increase the force effect on unscrewing by increasing the lever for applying forces by using an elongated tool (or an extension attachment for a tool of regular length);
• apply a special device. a torque amplifier (another name is a torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
• use a pipe wrench, holding the nut with it and applying force in the direction of unscrewing;
• clamp the nut in a rigidly fixed vise and unscrew, rotating the entire part or unit, if possible;
• clamp a small separate vise and try to unscrew the nut with them;
• apply a pneumatic impact wrench;
• drill out the threaded rod where the nut is stuck.

How to unscrew a torn nut

Damage to the edges (tearing them off) is a serious problem. There are several main solutions in this case:

• use the Super Lock head (affects planes, not edges);
• clamp the torn off nut in the pipe wrench (in a vice, clamp, pliers, etc.) and unscrew it;
• hammer a larger nut of a suitable size on top of a nut with licked edges, the inner diameter of which allows it to fit into an interference fit, for additional fixation, drill a recess in the contact area of ​​the nuts, inserting a metal rod (a piece of a drill and a piece of nail) there as a key to prevent rotation) and unscrew the fasteners using a tool for the size of a nut of a larger diameter with working edges;
• put on a nut of a larger diameter, weld both nuts together with a semi-automatic welding machine (while closing the thread of the stud or bolt with a tube with a suitable wall thickness), unscrew the large nut together with the welded small.

How to unscrew a round nut

For round nuts, when the edges have been cut and smoothed completely by previous unsuccessful attempts, or the nut was made in this form initially, several approaches can also be applied:

• put a standard hex nut of a larger diameter in an interference fit on it and drill a hole and a key that fixes it against rotation on the mowing line of their contact and unscrew it using a large nut;
• with a sufficient height of the side surface, use a special tool. a hairpin;
• put on a round nut a square washer of large thickness (comparable to the height of the nut), cut on one side and with the inner diameter of the washer exactly corresponding to the outer diameter of the round nut, tighten the nut with a pipe wrench or a vice, yielding to compression, the nut in the cut will select a gap until tightly covering the surface round nut, unscrew the fasteners.

In the latter method, picking up a washer from a stock that has a margin is small, so it is easier to make it yourself from a suitable piece of metal.

How to unscrew a nut with its heating

Heating the nut is often an affordable, simple, and efficient way. When the metal is heated, the threaded surface of the nut spreads out, the corrosion adhesion is somewhat destroyed and the sticking to the thread of the bolt or stud weakens.

Any suitable heat source can be used for heating: matches, wax candle, lighter, gas canister burner, blowtorch, gas torch (carefully, at a sufficient distance so as not to melt the fasteners), etc.

If possible, it is better to warm up the nut red-hot and unscrew it. If it did not work out the first time, then the heating should be repeated several times. This can be especially true for nuts planted on a special tool. thread lock.

How to unscrew the nut with soaking

Weakening the sticking of fasteners with soaking is a further development of the relatively fast (20 minutes or a little more) application of special penetrating compounds.

The threaded part of the nut, as a rule, does not differ in high height, therefore, if there is a sufficient time for prolonged immersion in a composition penetrating or chemically reactive with respect to rust, it is an effective solution.

There are two main approaches:

• generously moisten the rusty fasteners in the thread area with an active agent, wrap the accessible threaded shank of the bolt or studs in the nut area with a rag moistened with this product or put it on top of the end (if the shank does not protrude beyond the plane of the nut), cover with cellophane or rubber and wrap;
• immerse the fasteners in chemistry completely.

It should be ensured that the penetration of the active composition occurs strictly vertically from top to bottom.

As chemistry can be used:

• penetrating compositions, in addition to the previously mentioned WD-40 and Liquid Key, kerosene, gasoline, carburetor cleaner, lock defroster and others can be used;
• rust converter;
• compounds chemically active against rust. table vinegar, iodine, alcohol, Coca-Cola, etc.

How to unscrew a large nut

For large nuts, 6 basic methods can be effective:

• use a special tool that is designed for the repair and maintenance of agricultural machinery, tractor and special equipment. torque amplifier (other names. torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
• use a wrench with a long handle or a head with a long knob that is suitable for the size of the nut (if necessary, use a special extension or put a pipe of a suitable size on the rotating outer end;
• in the absence of a suitable wrench or head, cut a recess in a strong metal strip from one edge strictly along the distance of the parallel edges of the nut, thereby creating an individual wrench for a large nut;
• use a chisel and a hammer to strike at the edge of the nut in the direction of loosening;
• electrically weld a metal rod to a large nut (as an option. a corner, channel or other profile) as a T-shaped or L-shaped handle, for which to unscrew;
• if the threaded end of the bolt or stud does not protrude beyond the outer surface of the nut, then you can drill 2 recesses on this side in the large nut, then at the same distance drill 2 holes in a strip of thick metal (corner or other profile), align the holes and insert into them metal rods, apply a force to unscrew (the rods will work like dowels on a cut, transferring torque to the nut).

The last 2 methods can be combined: weld a metal profile with a flat surface to the outer upper plane of a large nut, additionally drill a couple of holes and insert metal rods that are dense in size, which will work as dowels for a cut when forces are applied. This will significantly strengthen the welded joint.

When deciding how to unscrew a large nut, one must proceed from the need to maintain the integrity of the nut.

How to unscrew a plastic nut

Plastic nuts tend to differ in shape and size from normal metal nuts. The pliability of the material limits, although not always excludes, the use of a tool that squeezes from both sides (pipe wrench, vise, etc.). coverage of most of the perimeter is needed, if possible.

You can unscrew the plastic nut:

• a special factory-made wrench, the working surface of which repeats the profile of the nut perimeter;
• a self-made key;
• a puller for automobile oil filters, which tightly cover the circumference with a steel tape or several metal paws (the stronger the applied force, the stronger the coverage);
• press wooden blocks and two opposite sides to the protrusions of the plastic nut and simultaneously hit with two hammers in the direction of unscrewing;
• with a small diameter. wide-opening pliers;
• pipe (gas) wrench.

If the standard key is lost, then it is easy to make a key with your own hands from not the most difficult metal (steel or aluminum) or dense plastic. First, it is wiser to make a template from cardboard, check the tightness of the fit on a plastic nut, then transfer the contour to a suitable piece of sheet material and cut it taking into account the handle.

How to unscrew a nut in a hard-to-reach place

To work with hard-to-reach fasteners, a special tool is used:

• wrench or ratchet with short handle;
• a ratchet with a large number of teeth in the mechanism (gives a small angle of rotation, which is important in cramped conditions);
• extension cords to the heads;
• flexible actuators for heads.

When deciding how to unscrew a nut in a hard-to-reach place, you must first of all find a suitable tool. purchase or ask for a while.

How to unscrew a nut with its destruction or damage

In the most hopeless cases, when all the available methods and tools have failed, the fastening remains to be disconnected by destroying the fasteners:

• pushing a chisel to the edges of the nut, hit it with a hammer in the direction of unscrewing;
• cut the fasteners with a power tool with a cut-off wheel;
• cut down with a hand hacksaw for metal;
• destroy the nut by drilling numerous holes;
• cut the nut with a chisel and hammer (easier. after pre-drilling the holes);
• use a specially created tool for this. a nut;
• put on a larger nut, weld both nuts together around the perimeter with a semiautomatic welding machine (while closing the threaded part of the bolt or stud with a tube with sufficient wall thickness to exclude welding into one piece), unscrew with a wrench for a large nut.

When deciding how to unscrew the nut, it is very wise to immediately use a suitable effective tool and perform preliminary preparations taking into account the condition of the fasteners. Unprepared use of brute force with an unsuitable tool is highly likely to damage the nut edges, break the stud or tool.

Before unscrewing the nut, it is worth cleaning the threaded part of the stud or bolt, applying a penetrating compound and only after that apply force. Taking into account the techniques described in this article, even the most difficult cases can end with a positive outcome if you spend some extra time on preparation.

Returning to this article when it will be necessary, you can find the necessary hint in the answer to the question of how to unscrew the nut of the crankshaft of the engine, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and on other components and assemblies.

How to unscrew the “stubborn” nut

Thread, bolt and nut are the most common way of connecting various parts of assemblies and mechanisms. Unlike welding, it assumes the possibility of disassembly, replacement of faulty parts with new ones and then a new assembly using all the same threaded connections. Everything would be fine, but there is one drawback. although the bolt and nut are tightly connected, but the place of their mating tends to rust quickly, since moisture can still get there.

And it can be very difficult to unscrew a rusted nut. Therefore, whenever possible, it is advisable to lubricate the threaded connection. But lubrication is not always acceptable. To be honest, we often neglect lubrication and regular maintenance, which includes lubrication of threaded connections. As a result, we get what? That’s right: a nut that doesn’t want to budge along the thread when we want to unscrew it. And this is the most important thing. to “rip” it from its place, then it will easily follow the thread.

How to proceed in this case?
At first, do not rush, but you need to choose a wrench corresponding to the size of the rusted nut. If you tried to unscrew the nut with a simple open-end wrench and nothing came of it, then you should try using a spanner wrench. It “hugs” the nut not from three sides, like a carob, but from all six, and the chance of breaking the nut edges is much less. If this does not help, you can try to get the case off the ground using a special cap head.
Secondly, you can increase the force of impact on the “stubborn” nut. By lengthening the wrench with some suitable pipe, we get a powerful lever that will significantly increase the effect of the wrench on the nut. We know this from the physics course. the larger the lever, the more work can be done with the same application of force.
Secondly, if physics did not help and no keys could cope with the task of unscrewing the nut, then chemistry should be called for help. You just have to try to destroy the layer of corrosion that firmly “soldered” the bolt and nut. This can be done with the help of special liquids that dissolve rust. To do this, you can use a special technical aerosol WD-40 or even just kerosene or gasoline (only fire safety measures must be observed). The place of the threaded connection must be moistened with these liquids and there is a pause (10-15 minutes). After that, the nut will be more “obedient”.
Thirdly, you can try another method (again, back to “physics”). We know that when heated, bodies expand. If you heat the nut with a soldering iron, plug it in and attach the tip to the nut, then unscrewing it will be quite simple.
A “hard case” is when the edges of the nut are torn off and not a single wrench can grab it. There are exits here too. If the nut is large, then you can try to tighten it with a gas wrench and move it out of place. But here you need to be careful, otherwise it is easy to rip off the bolt itself with such a powerful key instead of a stuck nut. If the nut is small, then it is better to use a hammer and a chisel: make a notch on the nut with a chisel and, resting it (better blunt) against this notch with light hammer blows while unscrewing the nut, try to move the nut from its place.

If necessary, you can use a file to grind out new edges on a smaller turnkey nut.
Well, if all else fails, then there is only one way out. to saw this “stubborn” nut with a hacksaw for metal or cut off its angle grinder. As the saying goes, “there is no reception against scrap.” No nut can resist here! But this is the most extreme method, especially since it can not always be used (for example, if the nut is located so that you cannot get to it either with a hacksaw or an angle grinder.
And in order not to suffer then again with the nut, it is best to lubricate the threaded connection, then it will come off the bolt, “like clockwork”.
And what to use to unscrew a tightly tightened or rusted screw? Read the article about impact screwdriver.