The starter on the trimmer broke what to do

The device and principle of operation of the starter on the trimmer

The gasoline engine is, in principle, the main part of lawn mowers.Its power is in the range of 0.5-2.5 hp. The movement from it is transmitted to the shaft, which is inside the hollow rod, and then through a gearbox consisting of gears, already a fishing line or knife (working body).

Also, lawn mowers have the following elements:

• protective casing;
• lever;
• belt designed for the convenience of using the device;
• starter used to start a gasoline internal combustion engine.

All parts of the lawn mowers are presented in the photo below.

The trimmer starter is an integral part that starts the engine. He is shown separately in the two photos below.

The starter mechanisms of different models of lawn mowers work on the same principle: when the engine starts, the protrusions marked with 1 in the photo above engage with the pawls 3. When the engine starts to work, they return to their previous position due to the influence of centrifugal force. Wire 2 also plays a similar role.

The process of returning to the initial position of the elements of the mechanism occurs due to the presence of a spring wound around the axis. It unfolds when the rope is pulled. After releasing the cord, it is pulled in and wound up due to the coiling of the spring. During the start of the internal combustion engine lawn mowers, the starting mechanism turns its shaft until it starts to work (starts).

Today, gasoline lawn mowers are equipped with two types of starter mechanisms:

• manual;
• electric.

Repairing Craftsman Weedwacker pull-starter.

The first option is much more common.

The trimmer starter can operate without breakdowns for a long time. It is impossible to clearly indicate the period of uptime. Everything is determined by the initial quality of the device and adherence to the rules for handling it.

The main malfunctions of the trimmer starter

It is not difficult to determine the cause of the breakdown of the triggering device. There are several main options:

• break of the cord (rope);
• when the spring breaks or disengages.

The above details are shown in the photo below.

It may happen that the starter mechanism is accidentally broken. The consequences will be disastrous if the broken rope is wound around the flywheel of a working internal combustion engine: then the spring will burst, the pulley will break. But such cases, when a complete replacement of the starter unit is required, are extremely rare. In most cases, to fix the mechanism, it is enough to install a new spring or replace the cord.

Removal and disassembly of the starter, replacement of broken parts

To repair the trimmer starter, you will first need to disassemble it, and then assemble it. This process is not particularly difficult. For work, you need a screwdriver with a tip of the desired shape.

Everything should be done carefully, observing safety precautions, mainly so that the spring does not injure the master in case of an accidental departure.

How to repair a trimmer starter

Petrol trimmer starter repair may be required at the most inopportune moment. In this case, the problem can be solved in two ways: replace the broken part or change the entire unit. The latter option is more expensive. To repair the device with your own hands, in most cases, you will only need a screwdriver with the appropriate tip from the tools. Repair work does not take much time and does not require special knowledge. It is enough to know the device, the principle of operation, the nuances of assembling and disassembling the starter on the trimmer in order to achieve the desired positive result.

Starter assembly

The assembly of the starter unit is carried out in a number of stages:

• the coil is turned over, setting it so that the spring bend fits exactly into the groove of the body, as in the photo below;

• two washers are laid, between which a spring is placed;
• put in place the cup with the antennae;
• tighten the screw (photos below).

When doing the described manipulations, it is imperative to put two washers. If this is not done, then the spring will eventually damage the plastic cup, and when it is pulled up, wedging will begin. Because of this, there is a feeling as if the spring has flown off. To eliminate this drawback, you need to install this part of a greater length or an additional washer.

When such parts are not available, you can simply unscrew the screw a little, and the starter unit will start working without wedging. But this option is temporary. it is better to repair it with high quality as soon as possible.

Spring tension

After installing the spring, tighten it. To do this, perform the following actions:

• remove the handle from the starter cord;
• then the rope is inserted into the reel groove;
• tension the spring by rotating the coil in the opposite direction to the clockwise direction (winding);
• make the required number of revolutions specified in the operating instructions for the used trimmer model and corresponding to the length of the cord used;
• at the very end, the rope is threaded into the hole intended for this, located in the starter cover;
• put the handle in place, fixing it with a knot.

If, after repair, the spring continues to fly off, then you can get rid of it in the following ways:

• squeeze a piece of the plate suitable in size into the groove at the location of the spring hook;
• drill holes on both sides of the groove in the spool, into which to insert the spring hook and fix it with a wire.

Disassembly of the starter unit

The launch mechanism is disassembled in order to install new parts instead of broken ones in the following sequence:

• unscrew with a screwdriver the screw fixing the pulley with the starter cover;
• take out the spring and antennae;
• carefully remove the pulley (you need to turn your head away or work, wearing glasses and gloves first);
• determine why the trigger is broken;
• if the spring has collapsed almost completely, then it is replaced;
• when the spring comes out of the hook, it is installed in its original place, bending the antennae in front of this (the photographs show the laying process);

• after the spring plate is installed inside the groove, carefully twist it.

To change the spring, you must work carefully and carefully: it can accidentally burst under the influence of the force caused by installing it in place. Even if you carefully remove the roller, the spring strip very quickly flies off the reel and can injure your hand with its sharp edges.

It is not always possible to immediately put the spring plate in its original place. It often slips, so attempts must be repeated until the desired result is achieved.

Which Trimmer To Choose For Home

How to choose an electric trimmer How to choose an electric trimmer for a summer residence Hello, dear friends! The choice of a trimmer for a summer cottage or a personal plot directly depends on the high-quality condition of this plot. To begin with, you need to assess the degree of vegetation congestion of the area of ​​the site. after all, it can grow apart from ordinary lawn grass [.]

Starter Trimmer Installation Video

How to repair starter on the trimmer

Petrol trimmer starter repair may need to be done suddenly. Here you can solve the problem in 2 ways: change the broken part or change the entire unit. The latter option is more expensive. To repair the device on your own, only a screwdriver with a suitable tip is almost always useful from the tools. Repair work will not take too much time and does not even require special knowledge. It is enough to know the device, the mechanism of operation, aspects of assembling and disassembling the starter on the trimmer in order to achieve a suitable good result.

The device and principle of operation of the starter on the trimmer

The internal combustion engine is, by and large, the main part of lawn mowers. Its power lies in the range of 0.5-2.5 hp. The movement from it is transmitted to the shaft, which is inside the hollow rod, and then through a gearbox consisting of gears, already a fishing line or a knife (working body).

Also, lawn mowers have the following elements:

• protective casing;
• a pen;
• a belt designed for ease of use by the device;
• starter for starting a gasoline petrol engine.

What remains for our client to do the details of the lawn mowers are presented in the photo below.

The trimmer starter is an integral part that starts the engine. He is shown separately in 2 photos below.

The starter mechanisms of different models of lawn mowers work according to a similar principle: at the time of starting the internal combustion engine, the protrusions marked in the photo above with the number 1, engage with the dogs 3. When the engine starts to work, they return to their previous position due to the effect of centrifugal force. The wires 3.2.

The process of returning to the initial position of the parts of the mechanism occurs due to the presence of a spring heaped around the axis. It unfolds when the rope is pulled. After releasing the cord, it is pulled in and wound up due to the coiling of the spring. At the time of starting the internal combustion engine lawn mowers, the starting mechanism turns its shaft without performing a high-quality installation until it starts to work (starts).

Today, gasoline lawn mowers are equipped with 2 types of starter mechanisms:

Option 1 is even more common.

The trimmer starter can work for a long time without breakdowns. It is impossible to precisely indicate the period of non-refusal work. What remains to be done by our client is determined by the initial quality of the device and adherence to the rules of invocation together with it.

Removal and disassembly of the starter, replacement of broken parts

To repair the trimmer starter, it will be useful to disassemble it first, and then assemble it. This process is not particularly difficult. A screwdriver with a tip of a suitable shape is useful for performing work.

It remains for our client to do it carefully, observing safety precautions, mainly so that the spring does not injure the master in case of an accidental departure.

Read also from the heading

Do-it-yourself gas drill starter repair, lawn mowers, trimmer

Today, we will consider the most common case when the breakdown is not so serious and show how to repair the starter with our own hands if the cord breaks off without any destructive consequences or does not wind up due to the fact that the spring inside just flew off, out of engagement. At least, initially I want to believe in it. But in order to find out whether this is so or not, you will need to disassemble the starter.

How to repair a trimmer starter

Starter repair: disassembly

We unscrew the screw with which the pulley is attached to the starter cover. We take out the antennae, the spring. We pull out the pulley itself carefully so that the spring does not bounce into the face. Even with the most careful disassembly, it usually immediately flies out of the coil and abruptly unfolds into a long metal strip or twists into rings.

Pull out the white starter coil carefully. do not get hurt by the spring!

If the spring bursts or one of its hooks breaks, then repairing the starter will not work simply and quickly. the spring needs to be replaced. In order not to spend money on buying a new starter, you can search only for it on sale.

If the starter spring simply breaks off, that is, one of the hooks is out of engagement, it is enough to insert it, if necessary, slightly tightening the hooks more tightly (just do not break it off!) Install the spring with an outer hook into the pulley groove and start twisting it, while holding with your fingers inside the coil and preventing it from jumping out of there.

Filling the starter spring Pressing the spring to the pulley, wind the spring inward in a circular motion

It may not seem so easy to insert the starter spring the first time, but everything comes with experience. With a little practice, you can easily wind the spring into the pulley in a maximum of a minute.

The starter spring is wound. It remains only to assemble the starter and charge the spring to the desired value.

Symptoms of a generator malfunction

Generator malfunctions are not always easy to identify. Some of them (the so-called “floating” malfunctions) are determined only at a special stand.

But if you notice that the headlights, when the engine is running, have become dimmer, and extraneous noises interfere with the normal sound of a running engine or the battery is quickly discharged, then it’s time to contact the masters. Because it is better to prevent a malfunction by performing generator repairs on time than to ruin your day with an unexpected breakdown one day.

Recently, it has become very convenient to contact specialized firms, whose specialization is the repair, maintenance and sale of starters and generators. Modern equipment, combined with qualified personnel and a large selection of spare parts, will allow you to eliminate any malfunction in just a few hours. And diagnostics with disassembly and analysis of the degree of wear of parts will help to quickly establish the degree of operability and carry out restoration work.

However, you can try to diagnose yourself and eliminate some of the causes of generator malfunctions.

If the battery does not charge in the car, then first of all you need to check the tension of the alternator belt. the belt should be tensioned without sagging. Of course, this can be done by eye, but it is still better to use a dynamometer: if you pull on the longest branch of the generator belt with a force of 10 kgf, then it should bend by no more than 10-15 mm.

On most machines, the tension of the alternator belt can be adjusted by loosening the nut that secures the alternator housing to the adjusting bar and moving it with a pry bar away from the engine. After setting the required belt tension, tighten the alternator retaining nut back.

If the tension of the alternator belt is normal, then, most likely, the voltage regulator relay needs to be replaced. On older cars, it is a plastic box bolted to the front fender mudguard, and in modern cars, the regulator is built directly into the generator itself.

To replace the relay-regulator in the generator, you must first unscrew the two fastening screws, disconnect the contacts, and then remove the regulator together with the brush assembly from the generator body.

Check the slip rings: burned ones must be smoothed out with a fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a cloth soaked in solvent.

At the first time after installing a new regulator, it is possible that the voltage will slightly differ from the nominal one. When the new generator brushes are rubbed in, everything will return to normal.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning starter

Both the generator and the starter are subjected to large mechanical loads associated with the specifics of these devices, and the slightest violation of the operating mode immediately makes its own adjustments to the quality of work.

The prerequisites for diagnosing or repairing the starter may be as follows:

• when turning the key in the ignition lock, the starter does not work;
• after starting the engine, the starter is not disconnected;
• the starter turns, but the car does not start (the crankshaft does not turn when the armature is rotating);
• strong grinding and noise during operation.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning starter and alternator

Starter and alternator malfunctions often cause a lot of trouble for motorists. Indeed, as often happens, during operation, we do not pay much attention to the loads that the car has to withstand. However, this continues only as long as our car suddenly stops starting and requires repair.

Below we will talk about the most common causes of malfunctioning starters and alternators, as well as how to fix them.

At the end of the article, see a detailed video instruction on finding the causes of a car starter malfunction.

You may also be interested in the following materials:

The understanding that any thing breaks down if left without proper care comes too late, and the only way out is often the urgent repair of the starter or generator. To avoid breakdowns, you need to know and be able to recognize the first signs of impending malfunctions, and carefully listening to your car.

What to do if the starter does not work?

Below are general guidelines for what to do if the starter does not work. And at the end of the article, see the video instruction.

• If the starter does not work, then first of all check the reliability of the connection of the battery and starter wires.
• After making sure that the connection is in order, turn on the horn and headlights. Dim headlights and a quiet signal indicate a flat battery. In this case, you need to charge the battery or ask to “light” from another car. the starter should work and start the car.

• If the signal and the headlights are working normally, then try to remove the wires from the terminals of the ignition switch, which are responsible for starting the starter (on VAZ-ah these are the conclusions “thirty” and “fifty”), and briefly connect them together. A tripped starter will indicate a faulty ignition switch. Start the engine, replace the removed wires and continue on your way.
• If the ignition switch is working properly and the starter still does not work, connect the additional wire to the terminal (plug) of the starter traction relay, and then touch the other end of this wire to the “positive” of the battery. If the starter works, eliminate the malfunction in the circuit from the battery to the starter traction relay.

If all of the above does not help, then start the engine from the tug and go to the auto electrician to repair the starter.

The starter relay and the retractor clicks, what is the reason?

If the starter clicks on the VAZ 2114 and does not twist, then everything immediately becomes clear. These clicks come from the solenoid relay, but this does not mean that you need to change the starter solenoid relay. Current flows to it, so it clicks.

If these devices click, then this is already good, because if there are clicks, then these devices are operational or partially operational.

In most cases, solenoid relays use the electromagnetic method to connect the contacts.

When voltage is applied, the contact terminals receive charges with a different pole, so they begin to attract and when they come into contact with each other, they create such a sound in the form of a click.

In order for the engine to start, you need to make sure that these components are in good working order:

• battery charged with well connected terminals;
• the ignition lock and its contacts should be in order;
• starter relay, solenoid relay and starter itself.

Video tip the starter clicks, but does not twist:

The relay clicks, but the car does not start, how to start the car?

It seems to be such a small unit, namely, it can be the reason why the car will not start. But if you have a VAZ 2121 or any other VAZ on a manual transmission, then there is an excellent way out of the situation. just take and start the car from the pusher. To do this, you need to turn the key, as you usually turn it when you want to start the car.

Then find several people and the whole crowd must push the car and continue pushing until the speed becomes more or less normal. about 5 km / h or more. At this moment, you need to squeeze the clutch, turn on the 2nd gear and release the clutch, the car will twitch and must start, you need to give the gas at the moment when the car is trying to start. If the car stalls, you must repeat these steps. If it has not stalled, then you can go on without stopping.

And you need to drive carefully so that the car does not stall at a traffic light, and of course, you do not need to turn off the engine yourself. If there is no one around to ask to push the car, then you need to look for a hill nearby and push the car yourself to this hill and leave it. When the car starts rolling down the hill, you can also turn the ignition key and engage second gear and release the clutch.

In general, the car will start in this way without a starter and without a battery.

Video advice is a useful way to get out of the situation when the starter clicks, but does not twist:

The car starter is an electric motor that is powered by a battery. The task of the starter is to engage the flywheel of the internal combustion engine to turn the crankshaft and then start the engine. When engaged with the flywheel (braking torque), the car starter absorbs an electric current of about 350 A.

This device is designed for short-term operation, long-term rotation of the starter significantly reduces its resource. Note that a completely serviceable engine starts up from the starter almost immediately, without the need to rotate the crankshaft for a long time. In the cold season, up to 2 attempts to start the internal combustion engine from the starter are allowed.

The starter clicks or hums, but the engine does not pick up: the main causes of the malfunction

If there is a malfunction that manifests itself in the form of clicks of the starter when the engine is started, then an analysis of the nature of the clicks can indicate the causes of the breakdown. In the event that the starter traction relay clicks constantly:

• the storage battery is discharged, it is necessary to check the charging current;
• check the tightness of the battery terminals;
• there are problems with the “mass”, it is required to check the place of contact of the mass with the body or the internal combustion engine, it may be necessary to implement additional warm-up;

If the starter clicks only once and does not turn the engine, then the following is possible:

• insufficient fastening of the traction relay to the starter housing;
• there was a burning of the contacts in the starter traction relay;
• the malfunction is associated with poor ground contact;
• there was a breakdown of the starter;

The absence of malfunctions of the starter traction relay will indicate that it is then necessary to remove the starter itself for detailed diagnostics. Note that the starter clicks, but does not turn, both due to breakdowns of the starter retractor relay, and as a result of its own malfunctions. The most common are:

• the power wire that goes from the starter windings to the traction relay can burn out;
• critical wear of the starter brushes has occurred. In this case, the brushes need to be replaced;
• there is a jamming of the starter armature due to wear of the starter bushings. Starter bushings will need to be replaced;
• there is a short circuit of the starter armature winding, as well as an open or short circuit of the stator windings;

An element such as the starter bendix should also be separately mentioned. The bendix may be deformed or the fork of the bendix drive may break. Another problem associated with the starter bendix is ​​damage to its teeth. Backside of the bendix teeth means that the device cannot mesh with the teeth on the flywheel rim.

Another bendix is ​​connected to the retractor core by means of a special plug. The lack of engagement of the bendix with the teeth of the flywheel rim means that in this case there will not be a complete retraction of the traction relay into the winding at the moment of switching on. As a result, the so-called “penny” will not be able to bridge the power contacts of the relay to supply power to the starter motor.

How to check the starter traction relay yourself

You can check the starter traction relay with your own hands using an auto-tester. To do this, you first need to measure the voltage from the battery at the starter contact. After that, the tester probe is connected to the starter output, after which it is necessary to turn on the ignition and turn the key to the “start” position.

During measurements, you need to pay attention to the following: if the measurements at the input show a voltage that corresponds to the normal battery charge, but during the operation of the traction relay at the output, the voltage drops 2-3 times, then there is a high probability of burning the power contacts of the solenoid relay.

If the voltage at the input corresponds to the voltage of the charged battery and a similar voltage indicator is noted at the output of the traction relay, then the contacts of the traction relay are in perfect order. This suggests that a breakdown has occurred in the starter. In the first case, the traction relay should be disassembled, after which the contacts should be cleaned, as well as the bridging plate should be cleaned. A non-separable traction relay should be replaced with a new or known working device. In the second case, you will need to remove the starter for detailed diagnostics and troubleshooting of the device.

Why the starter may not work after turning the key in the ignition lock. The main causes of starter malfunctions: bendix, traction relay, brushes, winding.

How to remove the engine start lock. Checking for accidental activation of the immobilizer and how to disable it. Diagnostics of possible alarm malfunctions.

What functions does the fuel pump relay perform, signs of breakdown. Where is the fuel pump relay installed, how to properly check the fuel pump relay.

Why engine oil can freeze: reasons. Available ways to start the engine if the oil in the engine is frozen or too thick.

How to determine why the gas pump does not pump or does not work well. Fuel rail pressure, pump diagonal. Wiring, relays, fuel pump fuses.

The purpose of the flywheel in the crank mechanism. Types of flywheels and features of damping systems.

December 20, 2016 Category: Car Fault Diagnosis

In the modern world, a car is no longer an element of luxury. it is rather an integral part of the life of most people. However, the operation of a car, like any other mechanism, is very often associated with not the most pleasant moments, especially when the car stops working as it should.

Among the problems associated with the car, the most common problems are engine starting problems. There can be many reasons for this phenomenon, and for a more accurate diagnosis of the problem, it is necessary to find out which particular mechanism or unit is malfunctioning.

For problems with starting the engine, the starter itself is very often to blame. Its job is to crank the engine’s crankshaft to the frequency required to start it directly. However, many motorists are faced with the following problems: the traction relay clicks, but the starter does not turn. the car will not start. What are the reasons for this behavior of the car and how in this case to start it? In this article, we will analyze the most common problems that are characterized by similar “symptoms”.

Battery, wiring, terminals

As a rule, the clicks of the relay indicate the operability of this device. When the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, the car will not start most often due to the fact that the starter does not have enough electric current to spin the crankshaft. If power was not supplied to the starter at all, then we would not hear any clicks.

Most often, a similar situation occurs due to the banal discharge of the battery (or simply the low level of its charge). It is not difficult to identify this problem, if the retractor relay clicks when the ignition key is turned, and the lamps go out on the instrument panel, then the problem is in the battery.

Remember that sometimes it will not work to solve the problem simply by charging the battery. First of all, it is worth finding out the reason for the discharge of the battery, so as not to face this problem in the future. It’s good if the cause of the discharge was not turned off the light or another source of consumption, but if the problem, for example, in the generator or the battery itself, then no recharging will help you.

We also recommend reading the material on the topic: how to extend the life of a car battery. After reading this article, you will also learn about the causes of battery discharge and signs that the battery will soon fail.

The next most frequent cause of starter inoperability is damage to the ground wire going to the engine, or its poor contact. If there is not one click, but a whole series, this is probably the problem.

And if only one click is heard, then the problem should be looked for in the contacts of the starter, or rather its relay. The starter is powered by a current of about 200 amperes, however, due to poor contact anywhere, the current can reach much lower values. It may be enough to trigger the solenoid relay, but to ensure the crankshaft spin-up, this current strength will not be enough.

In some cases, the contacts of the starter relay may burn out, as a result, there is no spark necessary to ensure the correct operation of the starter. Actually, a click is not a characteristic sign of the proper functioning of the starter relay, it only indicates that the relay core is retracted, but the holding winding sometimes cannot fix it.

First of all, you should try to start the starter forcibly, and not from the on-board system of the car. There are three contacts on the starter retractor relay, two of them are larger, and the third is slightly smaller. It is necessary to close the two large contacts with a screwdriver. If in this case the starter starts to rotate, the retractor relay is to blame. As a rule, it must either be completely replaced or its contacts must be cleaned.

We watch a video where the author tells what to do if the starter does not turn, and how to close the starter contacts:

We also recommend reading an article about the main reasons why the starter turns, but does not grab the engine, and how to fix this problem.

Procedure for determining a malfunction in case of problems with starting

It would seem that the solution is extremely simple. to start the car from the tug or remove the battery, find a charger somewhere and charge it. However, it is equally important to understand the reasons for the discharge. In one case, we can talk about the absence of the operation of the car for a long time, in the other. some of the devices may be the culprit of the discharge. Therefore, you need to check the condition of the generator, as well as its brushes.

Now let’s look at how a switching system can affect startup problems. The battery is connected with the solenoid relay by its advantage. The minus is thrown onto the body, and the ignition relay is also involved in the launch. If, when turning the key, it emits characteristic clicks, but the retractor does not work and no work is heard from the starter itself (it does not turn), then the problem may lie in the relay or in its control cable.

To determine if this is so. drop the positive terminal on the starter control wire. If the starter starts working, then the reason is hidden in the ignition switch, a faulty relay, or in the wiring that connects them. In cases where the trip cannot be postponed in any way, you can start the engine by applying a plus from the power supply to the control terminal with the ignition on.

Poor contacts may be indicated by clicking sounds of the starter when the crankshaft does not rotate. It will be useful to start by checking all connections, in particular, by checking if the power cable is not broken. The fact is that some of the amperes may be lost “on the way”, and those that remain may be enough for the solenoid relay to work, but too few to start the motor. The driver or locksmith who is engaged in troubleshooting should check all existing connections, clean the wires and contact pads, lubricate and tighten tightly.

Starter malfunction

Sometimes, when the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, the car will not start because the starter itself has failed. It is possible that the wire that connects the starter winding and its relay has burned out or broken, or the starter winding has broken.

It is quite possible that a short circuit has occurred in the armature or stator windings, as well as in the brush holder. You can determine the short circuit, for example, by the headlights, when you try to start the engine, they fade out strongly, and sometimes even go out completely even when the battery is fully charged.

If the car has been used for a long time, then the starter brushes may have worn off too much or its bushings have worn out. As a rule, it is impossible to diagnose such problems in the shortest possible time, however, if there is enough time, you can find out the cause of the starter failure.

Another video, the principle of the starter, be sure to watch:

If there are problems with starting the engine, it should also not be too long “chase” starter. The fact is that the starter is essentially a small electric motor, which, however, allows the crankshaft to spin. To do this, it requires a very high amperage, therefore it is not recommended to operate the starter for a long time within one start attempt. Since you run the risk of disabling it, the contacts can simply burn. It is recommended to make three short attempts to start the engine, and if they are unsuccessful, proceed with troubleshooting.

Hello everyone, dear readers! In previous reviews, we have already talked about how important it is for a car to have a working battery, especially in the cold season. Otherwise, problems with starting the engine cannot be avoided. But what if the battery seems to be working, but the starter clicks and the engine does not start? Let’s talk about the reasons for this further.

An article about what to do if the starter on Voyage breaks down (as well as Wolf, Ural Solo and others)

An article about what to do if the starter on Voyage breaks down (as well as Wolf, Ural Solo and others)
The article can indirectly help those who are planning to install a starter on the starterless Urals and Dnieper.

In modern Urals, IMZ installs purchased Kherson starters ST 369 for outboard motors Whirlwind, the factory workers make a modified front cover, replace the bendix gear and assign the ST 369B index to the starter, while the starter rises in price two or more times. Structurally and in general, it remains the same unit. Why pay 5 thousand for what it costs two days of work.
In my case, everything was much sadder than the banal breakage of the bendix due to defective springs made of non-spring steel for some kind of misunderstanding. The starter assembly was completely absent. a hole gaped in its place. Fortunately, the previous owner did not throw away the old broken bendix. Subsequently, he will still do his service.
What we need:
The first is the unwillingness to dump a lot of money for the brainchild of IMZ-ST 369B, this unwillingness will become the main driving force of our project.
The second. as opposed to the first, the desire to get acquainted with the internal structure of the starter, practice the bulkhead, rearrange and adapt a simple tractor unit for our lofty motorcycle purposes.
Starter, not CT 369 from Vortex, we will go the other way and take CT 367 of the tractor launcher PD 8 from T 40. Speaking of T 40. This is an excellent air-cooled tractor engine with wonderful exhaust valves with a rod thickness of 9 mm, a rod length of 139 and a 38 mm head. Doesn’t it look like anything? This is the same valve from M-72 and K-750. A glorious thing is unification, glory to you, Lipetsk Tractor Plant. You just need to grind a groove for crackers.
We take the CT 367 starter because of the configuration of the aluminum front cover. it is very profitable. We place, as on the original, a retractor relay directly above the gearbox, in other positions the starter either interferes with the filling of oil into the box or does not allow the air filter to be put. Starters ST 362 from PD 10 and ST 366 from Zaporozhets are swept aside due to the direction of fire, besides, the front cover of ST 362, 366 cannot be attached to the Urals without overcooking.
I got a brand new in conservation, as much as 81 years old starter with two spare bendixes (in Photo 2 one bendix Ural) for absolutely ridiculous money. 1,500 rubles, I hope you will be lucky as well. The starter is completely disassembled, the bendix is ​​flared and bendix is ​​poured out, the thickened grease is washed off, I use only synthetic lubricant, for critical units MOBIL mobilith 46, red.
This is not an advertisement, the majority continues to use a simple litol to the place and out of place, and it is no longer suitable for anything other than lubricating a jack, a wheelbarrow and old Lada. Next, we select the parts that will go for revision. the front cover and the body of the retractor relay, he needs to file the lower ear. In the bendix, it is necessary to replace the starting gear with the Ural gear, the native gear of ST 367, although it has the same number of teeth. 9, differs in the pitch circle diameter and modulus, although it can be released and cut if desired. The cages of both gears have the same diameter.
We replace them. We re-roll the tractor bendix with the Ural starting gear embedded in it.
Next, we modify the front cover. in it we need to cut out a window on the opposite side of the existing window, this will slightly weaken the structure, but we will keep the reinforcements running exactly in the center of the starter cover-housing. We carefully try on everything and adjust it in place. We will also shorten the nose with a bronze bushing.
In this case, we assume that an aluminum spacer with a thickness of 4-5 mm will be installed between the starter and the gearbox. Modifying the engine crankcase a little, without overdoing it.
Otherwise, the plastic cover will not cover the widened starter hole. If we saw through, we do not despair, the plastic is terribly vulgar, with ever-moving flimsy ears, we throw it away without regret, a new one is easy to solder from brass and paint or chrome. Do not forget to shorten the corresponding part of the rotor shaft. When assembling, do not forget to move two thick adjusting washers from under the brush assembly to the starter nose. thereby we will remove the starting gear from the flywheel ring gear, otherwise the latter will touch the gear. Thickening of the gasket on the gearbox under the starter will lead to rubbing with the start pedal and the inability to use the kick.
Disassembling the old Ural bendix, strange damage to its hull was noticed, as if it was rubbing against something. So it is. during the start-up I touched the flywheel ring gear, we make it from a 15mm piece of copper heating pipe. with an inner diameter of 12. just under the shaft a bushing 7 mm long, in the future, excluding the flywheel touching the bendix holder.
Voila and our new starter takes the place of the regular one. In no way inferior to the Irbit factory. It remains to drink champagne with the money saved and once again enjoy your own ingenuity and handiness. As befits a real opposer.

Even on opposites. article 10 reducer on M-72 http://oppozit.ru/post_62797.html

By Mr_Vlad, fiercely despising everything that rides on 4 wheels and is not 2 motorcycles.

Exclusively for Opposita.ru

you can read more about the bendix rolling technology?

Bendix is ​​assembled so. three rollers into the elongated grooves of the cup, between them the antennae protrusions upward, the curly plate protrusions down into the special grooves of the cup (narrower than for the rollers), everything is clamped with springs, abundantly glued with grease Then we insert the gear, here you need to use skill and neat rotate to push the inner cage between the spring-loaded rollers, then lay the half rings, put on the upper casing with a boot
The assembled bendix is ​​slightly clamped in a vice with the gears down and compressed in the axial direction, for example with a clamp. we squeeze the rubber boot. Then we roll everything in a circle with a hammer through a narrow piece of wood until the whole sandwich is squeezed. If necessary, we finish it off with a bare hammer.

Mr_Vlad but there is no way now bendix rollers what to measure in the photo? I select a friend for a viraga in exchange for worn out. On a bend, the roller diameter is exactly 7mm, length is 11.8mm

No, they will not fit, the diameter of the roller is 6mm with kopecks, the length is clearly less than 11.8

How to understand that a car generator has broken down?

Usually, on cars with average or high mileage, at some point the generator starts to “junk”. It is quite easy to find out. While driving, no deviations are observed, and after stopping it cannot be started. The starter is barely spinning.

There are also several other ways to identify a generator malfunction.

There is a special indicator on the dashboard in the car that shows the charge level of the battery. If everything is in order with the car’s power system, then the indicator lamp will light up with all the other bulbs together when the ignition is turned on, and when the engine starts, the indicator lamp immediately goes out. When the indicator works somehow wrong, then the car has problems with the power supply.

The next characteristic feature of a faulty generator is a malfunction of the clock, radio tape recorder, and other electrical appliances. If the generator is faulty, voltage may disappear, a squeal and the smell of melted plastic can be heard from under the hood space.

On some car models, special charging relays are installed, which are also called “pills”.

In this case, it will be possible to more accurately find out the cause of the malfunction. It is necessary to disconnect the suitable wires (2 pcs.) From the relay while the motor is running and short-circuit them with each other. If the generator is faulty, no reaction will follow. It is also possible to determine the malfunction of the generator on an inoperative motor. The alternator pulley is pushed up and down, if a backlash is noticeable, then the alternator is definitely not working properly.

What to do if the generator breaks down on the way

Most car owners are absolutely convinced that only specialists in a professional auto repair shop should repair their cars, but there are different situations on the road, and there is no one else besides the driver nearby. In this case, you need to do the repair work yourself.

In any case, you will have to contact the service station. You can find out more about generator repair services on the website http://asga.com.ua

Types of generator faults

What kind of malfunction can be in the generator:

The first step is to check the fuse, which is located in the excitation winding of the generator. The fuse can only be moved at first, sometimes this is enough.

With a closed and burnt-out winding, nothing can be done in haste, therefore, the further movement of the car only on the battery to the first auto repair shop.

You can move for a while on the battery when the bearings are worn out and broken and there is nothing to replace them, and the reason for this is a broken drive belt, some other serious breakdowns.

And remember, if it happened that the generator malfunctioned, but you managed to fix it on your own, do not postpone a visit to a car service. This is the only way you can save yourself and your car from more unpleasant consequences.