Strippers for wire stripping
Wire stripper for round cables (0.5-6 mm²) KWT WS-09 61671
Wire stripper tool (0.05-10 mm²) and crimping tool for crimping sleeves (0.5-6 mm²) WS-04A KVT 61668
Stripper blade; curved blade INGCO HPK82001
Wire stripper 3 in 1 (crimping, stripping, cutting) INGCO INDUSTRIAL HWSP102418
Stripper tool (up to 10 mm²) WS-12 “Jaguar” KVT 69476
Tool for crimping and stripping wires 8.5″/215mm INGCO HWSP851
Tool for crimping and stripping wires 10″/250mm INGCO INDUSTRIAL HWSP101
Wire stripper, hook-shaped blade 8-28 mm2 HAUPA 200031
Insulation tool for cable stripping 0.2-6 mm2 HAUPA 210695
Wire stripper tool 180mm/7″, Steel 65MN INGCO HWSP04
6mm, With cutting function INGCO INDUSTRIAL HWSP15608″ / Tool for removing the insulation 0.5mm
6 mm, With cutting function INGCO INDUSTRIAL HWSP15608
KVT WS-06 stripping tool 60409
И57. Stripping tool (Tolsen, Rexant, Shtok, KVT)
И5704. Tool 12-4231 Rexant HT-318M type MINI for twisted pair termination and cutting (Rexant)
И5779. Isolation remover 38050 for wire insulation 0,5-6kV.mm automatic device. (Electrical tool, made by Tolsen, China)
И5700. Insulation remover 10028 INDUSTRIAL 160mm up to 10 kV. (Electroinstallation, made by Tolsen, China)
И5741. Stripper 69278 WS-11 for insulation stripping of 0,05-10 kV wires.mm automatic. multifunc. stripper (KVT)
И5737. Stripper 61671 WS-09 for wire stripping 0,5-6 kV.mm stripper (KVT)
И5780. Stripper 10013 for stripping wires insulation up to 10 kV. mm (Electromontazh, made by Tolsen, China)
И5775. Stripper HS-2204 for wire stripping 0,6-2,6 mm (Electromontazh)
И5701. Tool 12-4201 Rexant HT-3141 type 110 for making and trimming a twisted pair (Rexant)
И5736. Stripper 61670 WS-07 for stripping wire. 0.05-6kv.mm automatic. multi-function. stripper (KVT)
И5705. Rexant HT/HY-3141 Type 110 Tool 12-4201-4 for stripping and cutting twisted pair (Rexant)
И5734. Insulation remover 61668 WS-04A.insulator.wire. 0,05-10 kv.mm automatic. multifunc. stripper (KVT)
И5738. Stripper 58746 CS: GO-25 for cable stripping D=4,5-25mm (KVT)
И5745. Stripper 63839 WS-08 for insulation stripping. wire. 0,2-6kv.mm automatic. multifunction. stripper (KVT)
И5702. Tool 12-4221 Rexant HT-3140 type 110 for twisted pair termination and cutting (Rexant)
И5721. Tool 12-4016-4 Proconnect HY-302 for stripping coaxial cable RG 58-59-6-11 type (Rexant
Stripping tool (strippers)
I have a few strippers and decided to do a little review:
The oldest and most proven variant that all electricians have been using for a long time is the stripper:
The principle of operation is very simple. with a screw the pliers are adjusted to the necessary conductor diameter (with a small margin, so as not to scratch the conductor itself during stripping), the V-shaped blades are around the wire, you can also twist the pliers around the wire (to cut the insulation in a circle):
Then you just pull the pliers toward you and the insulation is easily removed:
These pliers come with non-insulated handles (cost cheaper), and come with insulated (red or red and yellow handles, inscription that there is insulation up to 1000V).
I have a model with insulated handles, and it is simultaneously my easiest and most expensive stripper. whether 1200r or 1400r it cost (while the same look can be found and for 600 or even 300r).
This is because it is made in Germany, each one is tested in a live bath. And of course the hardness of the steel and sharpening is good too.
Disadvantages. if you work with different wire diameters, you either have to readjust the screw all the time, or have several of these pliers and get mixed up in them. And you can’t adjust the stripping length.
Advantages. reliability, indestructibility, the ability to strip in hard-to-reach places where other strippers can’t reach, and it’s the only stripper I know that can work under voltage.
It helped me a lot once when in the country house at the input of the house burned out a badly made contact (twisted copper and aluminum oxidized, and our electrician just quit. I climbed up the ladder myself, and using these insulated pliers, and insulated pliers, wire cutters and screwdriver, was able to bite off, strip and restore contact, and be with the lights until the real electrician arrived. )
This is my first and the oldest stripper, of course, this type is already outdated and inconvenient compared to modern ones.
And since a good tool of this type, made of excellent steel with perfectly sharpened blades costs as automatic (and a bad one will cut and tear the wire badly), I would not buy such a tool now.
Here is another stripper, it is designed especially for taking the OUTER sheath off of round cables:
Very good and handy tool, especially for cable NYM, the only thing they come in two kinds. with an additional knife (covered with white translucent cap in the photo) and without it. I think this additional knife is absolutely unnecessary, in my opinion, those days are over when the wires were cut with knives, so it only prevents to get into hard to reach places, I would rather choose a model without it.
How this stripper works. it has a thin and very sharp blade, the release of which is regulated by a screw:
The screw is adjusted so that the blade cuts through the insulation but does not touch the wires in the cable. The device is put on the cable, clamped, twisted around, and pulled all the way through, cutting the insulation.
Release the blade must be careful not to damage the conductor insulation and cut only the outer sheath.
I got a small scrap of great cable with a bunch of high-grade copper wires:
I used this stripper to loosen them easily by removing the insulation:
Now I have a long-lasting supply of wires for radio wiring! )
Next is my favorite fully automatic modern very accurate stripper with accurate V-blades and adjustable stripping length:
These strippers produce under different brands, I’ve seen them under the brand LUX, Weicon Super, KVT and some others. Before the crisis, they cost about 1000 rubles. the golden mean. There are cheap-looking ones, black with black blades. There are similarly designed expensive professional wire strippers at 3 to 5 thousand, with great life-span for those who spend the whole day just stripping wires. no need for that at home.
The stripper works very simply. you set the stripping length (on many terminals, sockets, switches, etc.).п. Write on how long to remove the insulation for them:
Then insert the wire inside up to the stop and remove the insulation in one motion. Nothing but stripping lengths need to be adjusted at all.
The only downside is sometimes the stripping residue gets stuck in the stripper and you have to take it out. Probably, strippers for 4-7 thousand have no such disadvantage, but this is important only for professional installers, who strip wires day and night. )
But it can strip the thinnest and softest wires, even stripping their outer jackets first, and then the insulation from the wires inside.
Has built-in wire cutters for up to 2mm wire.
This is my favorite stripper, especially good for stranded wires. Perfect for car wiring! Also good for home wiring. And it’s perfect for radio amateurs as it can strip both jacket and insulation off really thin wires.
Very easy to grip handles. much easier than the next type of stripper I’ll review.
A very common and no longer new stripper design.
What makes it so good that millions choose it?
First, the versatility. it can strip wires of different diameters, automatically adjusting.
Secondly, it is the most convenient stripper to work with our popular flat wires of this type:
It’s probably the only stripper that can accurately strip the outer insulation off such a wire, as well as strip two or three of its wires at once ONCE! )
I unfortunately didn’t have such a wire at hand for demonstration, I had to take what I had.
Usually you strip the insulation off a flat wire with a knife or something like this:
Which is inconvenient, because in the end you end up with this:
The remains of the insulation stick out, so that they don’t get in the way, you have to cut them off with wire cutters.
But! If you use the right stripper, it doesn’t have to! )
This stripper can also strip two or three wires at a time.
Unfortunately I didn’t have a suitable three-core wire handy, but I think the principle is clear:
Very good gripper for three wire cable. )
As a free bonus it has pliers and a kind of crimper for insulated and uninsulated lugs (inconvenient to use, but if you do not have a normal crimper and need to crimp lug. it’s a salvation). There is also an inconvenient limiter for the length of the insulation to be stripped, which usually everyone removes at once. )
It’s very good for home wiring.
While it is less accurate and precise than the previous stripper type and has an awkward and bulky limiter, it is much more reliable.
But for hard to reach places it’s much less convenient than the previous modern type, because it’s more bulky and you have to wire from the side, and for car wiring it’s also less suitable. Although compared to cutters and wire cutters it is heavenly! )
And even though it claims to be able to strip very thin wires (it has a special adjusting screw), it does it very badly and damages the wire. it is not suitable for thin wires, radio amateurs should not buy this.
And that’s what strippers are best avoided:
Avoid cheap automatic ones with flat blades (modern ones have V-shaped blades, which gives perfect accuracy and precision), unfortunately the photo didn’t fit. They’re more likely to rip your wires.
And you need to avoid non-automatic strippers with blades with many holes for fixed diameter wires, such as these:
First of all, they’re just uncomfortable. The second in general is terribly inconvenient in comparison with automatic strippers.
And you don’t know what diameter you have. Instead of pressing and stripping without thinking, you have to measure the wire, choose the right window and do not make a mistake and insert it into it.
And the main thing. there is no precise adjustment to the size of wire, sizes are fixed, and it’s no secret that our sovkovye and cheap Chinese wires often have understated or overstated diameter, and in this case the blade fixed to the reference size will tear insulation or scratch conductor.
The tool for stripping
The use of the original Jokari (Jokari Krampe GmbH) stripping tool makes this work easy, efficient and fast. This tool impresses by its ease of use and the high quality of the result it achieves.
The particular advantage of the Jokari tool is that it can be used in narrow and hard-to-reach places. The complicated and time-consuming procedure of stripping insulation from various types and cross-sections of cables is made considerably easier and simpler this way.
Model. Jokari Secura 15 Article number. 30155 Manufacture/country: JOKARI.
DESCRIPTION: The Jokari 30010 is designed to quickly and accurately strip insulation from all types of surfaces.
Check out this REASONABLY priced STRIPPER. Weicon No 4-16 round cable stripper
Intended for fast and accurate stripping of insulation from coaxial cables of a diameter of up to.
The tool is designed to work on flat PVC insulated cables up to 12 mm in width.
Secura Coaxi N 1 JOKARI For fast and easy stripping of most types of conventional coaxial.
The ideal tool for applications in electronics, computer science, telecommunications and IT.
The handy Jokari Allrounder enables fast and precise stripping of insulation.
This universal tool is designed for sheathing all the most common power and communication cables.
The tool is designed to strip the sheath and insulation from data cables with.
Quickly and accurately strip insulation from all common power and data cables.
Quick and precise stripping of insulation on all common power cables and cables for.
Quick and precise stripping of the insulation on all common power and data cables.
The tool is designed to strip the insulation from AS-Interface cables with rubberized outer.
The tool is designed to strip the sheath and insulation from data cables. Can.
Ideal tool for applications in electronics, computer science, telecommunications.
Ideal tool for electronics, computer science, telecommunications, and electrical engineering applications.
Tools. Wire strippers. wire stripping tools
The most important thing when stripping wires is not to damage the wire itself and not to damage the insulation where it should stay. It is also important that it is fast, convenient and safe.
Wire stripper (wire stripper).
I have a few strippers and decided to do a little review:
The oldest and most proven option, which has been used by all electricians since ancient times, are these wire strippers:
The working principle is very simple. the pliers are adjusted with a screw to the necessary conductor diameter (with a small reserve so as not to scratch the conductor itself during stripping), then the wire is gripped, you can twist the pliers around the conductor (to cut the insulation in a circle):
Then you just pull the pliers toward you and the insulation comes off easily:
These pliers can have non-insulated handles (they are cheaper) and some have insulated handles (red or red and yellow handles, with inscriptions that have insulation up to 1000V).
I have a model with insulated handles, and this is both my easiest and most expensive at the same time. whether 1200r or 1400r it cost (while the same look can be found and for 600 or even 300 rubles).
The thing is that this one is made in Germany, each one is tested in a live bath. The Chinese may lie about the insulation, and if it is of poor quality and you work under current, you could be killed. And of course the hardness of the steel and the sharpening is also very good. you can easily grind the thinnest wires.
Cons. if you work with different wire diameters, you either have to readjust the screw all the time, or have several of these pliers and get tangled up in them. In addition, you can not adjust the stripping length.
Its advantages are reliability, indestructibility, possibility of stripping in hard to reach places other strippers can’t reach, and it’s the only stripper I know that can work under voltage.
It helped me a lot once when a poorly made contact burned out at the house inlet (copper and aluminum twisting was oxidized), and our electrician had just quit his job. I climbed the ladder myself, and using these insulated pliers, as well as insulated pliers, wire cutters and a screwdriver, was able to bite off, strip and restore contact, and be with the light until the real electrician arrived. )
And it turned out that this stripper is capable of stripping the finest of leads, which other strippers in this review simply tear (diameter of wire with insulation. less than a millimeter)!
I remind you, this stripper is the most expensive of those in this review, and it is made in Germany. probably, it is very carefully made, and its cheap analogues are not able to do so, but nevertheless.
Here is another stripper, it is designed especially for stripping the EXTERNAL sheath from round cables:
Very good and handy tool, and it is just indispensable for NYM type cable!
The only thing is that there are two kinds of them. with additional blade (covered with white translucent cap on the photo) and without it. So, this extra blade is absolutely unnecessary, in my opinion the days when the wires were cut with knives are over, so it just gets in the way, better choose a model without it.
How this stripper works. it has a thin and very sharp blade, the release of which is regulated by a screw:
You adjust the screw so that the blade cuts through the insulation but doesn’t touch the wires in the cable. The device is put on the cable, clamped, twisted around, and pulled all the way through, cutting the insulation.
I got a small piece of great cable with a bunch of high-grade copper wires:
With this stripper, I easily freed them by removing the insulation:
Now I have enough wire for radio wiring for a long time! )
Next is my favorite fully automatic modern stripper with adjustable stripping length:
These strippers are available under different brands, I’ve seen them under the brand LUX, Weicon Super, KVT and some others. Cost about 1000r 1800r. the golden mean. There are similar looking cheap, black colored ones with black blades. total shit, money down the drain. There are similar design expensive professional 3-5 thousand, with great resources for those who all day and does nothing but strips insulation from wires. for the home it is useless.
This stripper works very simply. you set the length of insulation to be stripped (on many terminals, outlets, switches, etc.).п. They write how long to strip for them:
Then you push the wire inside up to the wire cutter and peel it off in one motion. Nothing other than the stripping length needs to be adjusted at all.
The only downside is that sometimes the stripped wire strands get stuck in the stripper and you have to take them out. It happens when you slowly squeeze and unclench the handles, but if you strip quickly, the insulation comes right off and does not get stuck.
Probably, strippers for 4-7 thousand have no such disadvantage, but this is important only for professional installers, who strip wires day and night. )
But it can peel the thinnest and delicate wires, even stripping the outer sheath first and then the insulation from the wires inside.
There are integrated wire cutters for wires up to 2 mm.
It is my favorite stripper, especially good for stranded wire.
Very easy to grip handles. much easier than the next kind of stripper I’ll review.
A very common and far from new stripper design.
What makes it so good that millions choose it??
First of all it is versatile. it can strip wires of different diameters, it automatically adjusts.
Secondly, this is the most convenient stripper to work with our popular flat wire:
This is probably the only stripper that can carefully remove the outer insulation from such a wire, as well as remove the insulation from two or three of its wires at once AT ONCE! )
Unfortunately, I didn’t have the wire of VVG type for demonstration, so I had to use what I had.
Usually a flat wire is stripped with a knife or something like this:
Which is inconvenient, because in the end you get this:
The remains of the insulation stick out, so that they don’t get in the way, you have to cut them off with wire cutters.
But! If you use the right stripper, it is not required! )
This stripper can also strip two or three wires at the same time.
Unfortunately I didn’t have the right three-core wire at hand, but I think the principle is clear:
A very handy stripper for three-wire cable. )
I also really liked it. although at first I thought it was a bit rough, but that’s for thin wires, and electrics for 220 volts, especially flat VVG and the like it cleans just fine! )
As a bonus, it has wire cutters and a kind of crimper (crimping tool) for insulated and uninsulated lugs. It is uncomfortable to use, but if you have no good crimper handy, but need to crimp lugs it is an escape.
There is also a length limiter of stripped insulation, which usually is removed immediately. )
Like this. If possible, I’ll supplement the article, write more about stripper for coaxial cable, about stripper-crimper for telephone and Internet cable, as well as crimps (tools for crimping cable lugs and sleeves).
I will only say that stranded wires after stripping insulation should not be immediately clamped under the screw without preparation, because it easily destroys the individual strands.
It is necessary to press the stranded wires with insulated or uninsulated lugs:
You can see the already crimped tip above, in the photo with the first pliers, I have just reached my photo limit. )
Insulated male connector (this kind of thing is called so, it is sold everywhere, if you need to clamp two wires in one such connector, you need to buy a connector with a wider plastic part. Insulated male connector 2).
UPDATE: took a video of some strippers showed crimping pliers for sleeves:
Комментарии и мнения владельцев 54
Please advise tools for not often repair car wiring.
Strippers. type LUX and type KVT, good cutters, pliers (well, I have NWS), a set of heat shrink tubing (the best. with an adhesive layer, they gemetize the connection, but they are not easy to buy), auto superzolent 3M Scothc Super33 (it will never fail), for auto jacks you need crimps to match the pins of those connectors (the biggest and the most uncertain expense), the connectors themselves (there are universal very good connectors of Superseal system. search about them and crimps on the drive).
Be sure to have a voltmeter (a good! Not Chinese copies of ancient crap, and something like MS8239D or handy as a tester MS8211, or Uni-t, or whatever else is there inexpensive and normal. better ask, read. about the choice of a good voltmeter a lot of topics) and clamp meters (not necessarily, but sometimes very useful to watch the current or leakage).
And of course you need nylon ties and a tool for tightening them (KVT does), you also need a set of spades and pry bars for removing trim and pistons (there are kits in auto stores).
I also used this soft self-adhesive insulator. it’s often glued on wire harnesses at the factory so it won’t bump and chafe.
Of course, screwdrivers with different bits. there are a lot of torxes in cars. And an electric screwdriver with drill bits. Small electric screwdriver will make it much easier to loosen a bunch of screws if for example you need to do something under a dashboard.
A soldering iron or a gas soldering iron. but sometimes it’s better to solder). Good quality glue pads are also often needed. they can be taped to even clean surfaces, and you can use cable ties to attach the wires to them. And different size crimps. they cost a pretty penny at the auto store, and it’s always good to protect the wire with a crimper when you put something new in it. The car wire itself is sometimes needed. I don’t know where to get it, I unraveled a bundle of American wiring. This wire is perfectly clean when heated, even with a lighter does not melt, unlike the common crap. That means it’s safe. Where to get it. I do not know, but it may have analogues. Also need fuse holders with fuses. for new circuits (put extra lights what. protect them with a fuse!).
Thank you for the detailed answer. You write that you need crimps for the pins of the auto-disconnectors. They’re specific? Ordinary, household fuses will not do?This one for example?www.vseinstrumenti.ru/rucschi/delo_tehniki/417200/
Different pins require different jaw sets.
I’ll give you some links to more competent people! )
Here’s a great article on SupeSeal connectors and crimps:
Here’s a great article about different crimps:
Clippers. type LUX and type KVT, good cutters, pliers (well, I have NWS), a set of heat shrink tubing (the best. with an adhesive layer, they geminate connection, but they are not easy to buy), automobile super insulating tape 3M Scothc Super33 (it will never fail), for auto-disconnectors you need crimps for pins of those connectors (the biggest and the most uncertain expense), the connectors themselves (there are universal very good connectors of Superseal system. search about them and crimps for them on the drive).
Be sure to have a voltmeter (a good one)! Not Chinese copies of ancient crap, but something like MS8239D or handy as a tester MS8211, or Uni-t, or whatever else there is inexpensive and normal. better ask, read. about choosing a good voltmeter a lot of topics) and clamp meters (not necessarily, but sometimes very useful to watch the current or leakage).
And of course you need nylon ties and tools for their tightening (KVT does it). You also need a set of spatula and pry bars for trim and gun removal (there are sets in auto stores).
I also used a soft self-adhesive insulation. it’s often glued on wire harnesses at the factory so it wouldn’t bump and chafe.
Of course, screwdrivers with different bits. there are a lot of torxes in cars. And an electric screwdriver with drill bits. A small electric screwdriver will make it easy to loosen a bunch of screws if you need to do something under the dashboard for example.
Soldering iron or a gas soldering iron. but it’s better to solder). Good quality glue pads are often needed as well. they can be taped to even clean surfaces and wires can be fastened to them with cable ties. And different sizes of corrugations. costs pennies at the auto store, and when you install something new, it’s always good to protect the wire with a corrugator. The car wire itself is sometimes needed. I don’t know where to get it, I unraveled a bundle of American wiring. This wire is ideal stripped when heated, even a lighter does not melt, in contrast to the widespread crap. It means it is safe. I do not know where to get it, but maybe there are analogues. Also need fuse holders with fuses. for new circuits (put extra lights what. protect them with a fuse!).
The most helpful commentary I’ve come across here. Thank you very much!
Pliers for crimping and stripping
Crimping tool is an important part of a toolkit of assemblers of various communications, it is most widely used when working with cables. There are several types of such a tool, each of which has a number of features due to the intended use:
As you can see, the crimping tool has a wide range of applications. When choosing a particular type it is necessary to clearly define its functionality. For everyday tasks in the home, a combination of conventional pliers, wire cutters and pliers is usually sufficient. We strongly recommend that you choose dielectric tools for your work on the power grid.
For high-quality installation of various wired communications, the master must possess the entire arsenal of professional tools. Only with a complete set of crimping tools can the job be done properly.
How to strip the insulation
Strip wires with a knife
Let’s find out what a stripper is and why it is needed. Purpose of the device is to strip conductor ends when installing lighting, assembling electrical cabinets, consumer electronics, etc.д. It would seem that this work is not difficult to do with a knife. However, those who have experienced this work know that this is not the case at all. First, without enough skill, the most likely result is damage to the wire ends. If you strip stranded products, thin wires are cut and broken off, the contact with the terminal becomes worse. The same happens to aluminum cores. At the slightest bend in the cut section, they break off and the operation has to be started again.
Important! Removing the outside insulation of stranded wires with a knife without much skill often results in sheath damage to two adjacent wires and can cause a short circuit.
Using diagonal cutters
Professionals manage to trim and pull the coating off with side cutters. But it doesn’t take long to cut off the area to be peeled off.
Some manufacturers, Knipex, for example, produce special side cutters with special grooves on the blades. But this can only be done with up to two conductor diameters.
Stripping with an open flame
Sometimes a lighter is used. Just hold the part of the wire over the fire to melt the polymer coating a bit, and then pull it off with your fingers. You can get a light burn on your fingers, and some of the melted sheath will smear on the wires.
Electrician’s knife with heel
A special knife with a curved blade and a plate (heel) at the end of the curve. It is possible to remove the skin with it faster than with a usual blade. But you have to get the hang of it, too. Popular with professionals.
Special knife for cutting outer sheath in longitudinal direction. After acquiring some skill, the tusk can be used to remove the covering in a circular motion. The handle of the tusk ends with a special wheel. Turning the wheel allows you to adjust the depth of cut of the outer sheath.
An interesting device, capable of removing the insulating coating in many ways. With its help, you can perform the following operations:
- cut the outer sheath;
- Make a transverse or circular incision;
- remove the coating using the ready-made holes;
- use a retractable universal blade to perform the operation “grandfatherly” way.
Interesting! All these interesting devices are hidden in the body of the product, opening like a case. Because of their diminutive size, these strippers are called -sized.
An example of such a device would be Jokari 30155 or Knipex 18 85 125.
What is the best company to buy a hand carver
Such a device belongs to the category of the simplest. Represents pincers, which are equipped with small notches with sharpened edges. Removing the old layer of insulation will be carried out by the circular movements taking place. Cutting element will pass through the edge as the handle is squeezed. A spring is provided so that the pliers do not need to be deployed by hand. Handle lock prevents children from accidental contact with the cutting elements. The weight and size of wire strippers from the world’s best manufacturers will be negligible.
The rating opens up the model for the advanced user. Provides range-specific conductor protection feature. The tool can be used for crimping lugs and cutting wires. Suitable for crimping coaxial connectors. Appearance is different from similar devices, which makes it so popular. Characterized by the presence of a handle of normal volume. However, there is no return spring. If you don’t have a crimper, you can use pliers or a stripper tip. As a last resort, multi-tool undercrimp tools can help.
- crimping function of lugs;
- advanced model;
- protection of conductors with a cross section of 4 mm or less;
- comfortable handles;
- build quality;
- low weight;
- blades can be sharpened manually.
An accessory preferred by beginners who have not yet determined its final application. Used to remove old insulation from 2-28 mm cord. Manufactured by STAYER. Multi-purpose puller made of high-quality materials. Specialists note the availability of a terrific resource, which will allow you to perform any electrical installation work. Protective cap available. Cutting depth adjustment is also available.
You can buy a set for the price of 330
- weight 103 g;
- comfortable size;
- the ability to order online;
- manufacturer’s warranty (one year from the date of purchase);
- budget model.
Multifunctional tool made of stainless steel. Can cut M3 and M4 screws. Forming loops is also possible. One part of the jaws is embossed, so it can easily be used as a pair of pliers. Handle is large, so it fits comfortably in a man’s hand. One of them is slightly curved. Yet it remains small and relatively lightweight. 18 cm long. The return spring is rounded, easy to use. Available in two different cross-sectional sizes, based on American standards (AWG). There are also six cutting edge sizes to choose from. High strength steel is used as a raw material. Considered to be one of the most practical models on the market.
Of the line of manual strippers presented, this is probably the model considered the easiest. Can be used to work with wires that are 0.25 to 4 mm thick. The handles are two-piece, but the tool looks more like a cable cutter. The size adjuster is located on the handle and has a marking. The mechanism will not allow the jaws to close more than necessary. Therefore, there is no question of damaging the insulation. The return spring is located on the back side. There is a blocker that comes in handy when transporting equipment.
- ease of use;
- two-component handles;
- rotary knob;
- handles are not slippery;
- spring return type;
- locking mechanism;
Jokari N15 wire stripper for round NYM cables.
Stripping round cables is different than stripping flat cables, such as VVG-Png. Many electricians when replacing and installing wiring because of the convenience of work and pulling through the channels, ease of cutting, use cables brand NYM. And this is exactly a round-shaped cable.
For such wires, the expensive electrician’s knife (with a heel) is not very suitable, and therefore you have to use other specialized tools. One of the best pullers of this type is Jokari N15.
In fact, this very firm (Jokari) produces a similar tool with minimal differences in design and other world brands.
Structurally the puller has 4 kinds of blades for different jobs:
- External retractable auxiliary knife for extra work if the first three knives cannot be used. It can be fixed in three different positions.
Useful when cutting cable with rope or strings inside. It can also be used to cut plastic cable ties or just to sharpen pencils.
The most important advantage and difference of Jokari N15 from other analogs. Is a hole in top of case to let long pieces of cable through. (Later models of knipex also have a similar knife with a hole in the body. You can read it here.)
This allows you to easily remove the insulation longitudinally of any length, in any place of the cable, even at the beginning, even in the middle.
And this length is not limited by the size of the puller itself. Such a stripping is often necessary in large control cabinets when the circuit breakers are on top and the grounding busbar is at the bottom. That’s why we have to peel the outer sheath of 0.5m and more.
You just pass the cable through the opening and with a little effort pull the stripper towards you, cutting the insulation to the required length. This method is ideal for NYM cable.
In addition to NUM, it is possible to cut other circular types of cable. VVGG, multi-pair UTP.
But with a cable with rubber insulation KG will not work at all, although it is round in shape.
There is a clothespin on the side for convenient carrying of the cutter. It can be easily clipped onto a belt or and you are free to work at height, on a ladder or a ladder in the ceiling.
A latch is provided to prevent the tool from being constantly in the open position. And the two halves close very tightly. You can’t get the strand of wire between the knives in this position, you have to open it every time.
For example, with the Knipex similar design, it is possible to strip the insulation from the wire itself, even when both halves are snapped together.
All knives of the Jokari 15 stripper are golden in color because they are coated with titanium. This gives the tool more wear resistance and durability.
But keep in mind that all this plating is no help when the knife hits the copper. And if you press it deeper or pull it sideways, dents and defects are guaranteed. Especially if it’s monocore.
How and where to work with this wire stripper, what tools and blades are used for stripping, and what are their advantages? One advantage. is a convenience of Jokari work inside switchboards, when all cables are already inside and the distance between them and switchgear is minimal.
That means there is no more room for powerful sweeping movements with the knife and your hands. Besides, when you work in such conditions with the same knife with a heel, there is a risk that when the blade comes off the insulation of one cable, you can accidentally damage the other, or hit the wall and the equipment. And that again. dent and resharpening.
The annular incision
The first way of stripping. circular cut. Self-adjusting blades in the end of the tool are used for this. The entire cable is placed inside the stripper, squeezed with a little force, and two or three rotations are made around the axis, back and forth. An annular cut of the outer sheath is made.
If the stripper doesn’t cut the insulation all the way through, especially for cables with a harder VVGng jacket. this is normal. It doesn’t make a through cut, but rather a kind of notch. Otherwise there would be a high risk of damaging the insulation of the inner conductors.
This method is ideal for nym cables. I do not advise to use it for wires of similar construction brand PVS. With nym, all the cores inside the jacket are centered, and with PVA, they are twisted using a different technique. That’s why they can be damaged by such an incision without calculating the compression force.
If the ring cut was made at the end of the cable, you can usually pull the insulation off easily by hand afterwards. There is no need to drag it with the closed blades when both halves of the tool are clenched. This reduces the life of the knife. It is better to bend the cable as much as possible and remove everything with hands or pliers.
When the first method does not work a canine knife can be used. You put it in the already made notch, put the cable through the upper window, angle the cutter slightly with respect to the wire and pull the puller to the end of the insulation.
This makes a longitudinal cut in the outer sheath. It is the same depth all the way through and will not cut the strand at any point. After these two cuts any sheath, even of tough or slightly hardened cable is easily removed.
If you have another brand of knife without a hole in the housing, you have to hold the wire with two fingers, manually adjust the slope and constantly monitor the compression force so as not to cut through the outer layer too much.
When working with cables in wall sockets, the Jokari cable stripper does not cause any untidy cuts or burrs in the insulation thanks to its circular incision. The cut will be straight and allow the cable to lie down as snugly as possible.
In this case the blade tip is pressed against the wall of the socket outlet due to its small dimensions. This allows the insulation to be stripped to a greater depth. This will leave the necessary 7-10mm of outer sheathing, which is necessary to protect the conductors from being crushed by the walls of the socket.
In the junction boxes and sub-sockets the insulation is usually stripped in two stages. First the cross-cutting, the circular cut, then the longitudinal cut. Otherwise it is very inconvenient to remove the outer sheath due to cramped circumstances.
And if the wire is not firmly held inside, you can inadvertently pull it out. It is easy to work in such conditions only with nym cables, that’s why they are loved by electricians.
After stripping the external insulation with the same tool you can strip the conductors themselves, cross-section from 0.2 mm2 to 4 mm2 inclusive. These are the most common core sizes for home wiring.
Many, of course, rarely use this and prefer a special puller of other design. But that’s why the tool is so versatile, because it can be used for all types of stripping with round cables without purchasing other tools.
The stripping process is simple and uncomplicated. put the core under the knife of its cross section, squeeze Jokari, turn it in a circle and tighten the insulation. With the right size, no burrs or nicks are left on the wire.
With the latter stripping method, you need to know exactly what cross section you have.
All calibrated holes are designed for standard sizes. And we usually have cable made by technical conditions, is much different from the cable according to GOST. Since they often take the resistance of one kilometer of cable as a standard, not the cross section.
That’s why most professional electricians prefer to remove the insulation from the cores themselves not by Jokari, but by automatic strippers.
The second disadvantage of scraping. The insulation cutter blades are not removable.
If you work intensively, sooner or later Jokari will blunt anyway. And you can accidentally damage the blade during work, using it for the wrong purpose, with the wrong cable or material. As a result, instead of replacing the blades, you will have to buy a new device.
3 It strips the insulation not from all cables, but only those with a diameter of 8 to 13mm.
So, for example with cable TU brand VVGng, in which the insulation is, a priori, thinner than the state, with a cross section of 31.5 m or 32.5 mm do not work with circular blades.
It will just dangle around inside the puller, or it will rip off the thin skin. The option of using a longitudinal blade won’t work either, because of its not exactly small size you can easily damage the insulation inside the cable. Therefore if you massively work with cables made under specifications, this puller most likely will not suit you.
4 In warm rooms with high temperature (boilers, heating halls), when the insulation softens and turns into a kind of rubber, as in cable KG, stripper Jokari work is not as comfortable as at room temperature or at least at temperatures above zero.
But nevertheless, in spite of the disadvantages, if you approach the work wisely and treat the tool with care, then this stripper is able to pay back its cost over the period of operation more than once.