Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening
Sharpening the chainsaw chain with your own hands The chain tooth planes the wood like a plane, and the thickness of the shavings is adjusted by the height of the limiter. Intense sawing results in rapid dullness
Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening
The chain tooth planes the wood like a plane, and the chip thickness is adjusted by the height of the stop.
Intense sawing will quickly dull the chain. Several sharpenings may be required within one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly dulls when it meets the ground. It is enough to hook the soil with the tire once or twice, and the work can be stopped. The shavings become fine and the saw stops going deep into the wood.
The sooner dull teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed during sharpening, as a result. The service life of the saw chain is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is already required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A properly sharpened chain is pulled into the cut with just a little pressure. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to cut by increased feed force, then the teeth are dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if only small chips fly out of the cut instead of coarse, thick chips.
In this situation, the chainsaw must be sharpened urgently. Do not cut with a dull or defective saw chain. The consequence is high stress in the body, high cyclic load, poor cutting results. In addition, this means reduced productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear on all parts of the chainsaw.
Chain teeth parameters
To achieve optimal cutting properties, the tooth blades are angled. The back of the tooth falling back at an angle forms the posterior angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed to cut the upper blade into the wood.
The backward tapering blade of the tooth forms the back angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for side cutting of the chips.
The edge of the end blade forms a rake angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. The rake angles for different types of chains range from 60 ° to 85 °.
The back angle of the top blade refers to the backward tilt of the top blade.
This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, ranges from 50 ° to 60 °. The top blade is the main blade and the back corner of the top blade. This is the most important corner. The clearance angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure, and the correct value is obtained by observing other prescribed values.
The grinding or entering angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.
The sharpening angle can be changed, depending on the application. As a rule of thumb, the larger the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting non-frozen softwood. Reducing the sharpening angle when cutting frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother saw blade and less vibration. However, sharpening angles greater than 35 ° and less than 25 ° should be avoided (except for rip chains, where this angle is 10 °).
The rake angle, sharpening angle and upper blade angle change during sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the chain. Be sure to observe the prescribed values.
A depth gauge is located on each cutting link in front of the tooth blade. The difference in height between the top edge of the depth gauge and the front edge of the back of the tooth is defined as the distance of the depth gauge.
The depth of penetration of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and thus productivity depends on the distance of the depth gauge. The distance of the depth gauge is set depending on the chain pitch and type of execution. Normally, it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, more often 0.6 mm. High values will result in an increased tendency of the chainsaw to kickback, too much grip and chain vibration. Low values lead to a drop in performance. Since the distance of the depth gauge decreases with each sharpening of the saw due to a decrease in the upper edge of the tooth, the depth gauge also needs to be filed periodically. After 5-10 chain sharpenings.
The round file holder has a mowing line that can be correctly positioned in relation to the chain. The holder fits onto the sharpened tooth in accordance with the line orientation. In this case, the insert itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth gauge, and the file is located under the cutting edge.
The use of a holder ensures that the file will fit to the tooth at the correct height. There are different holders for different pitches of the saw chain. The correct choice of holder, combined with the correct file diameter, ensures that the file protrudes over the back of the tooth by 1/5 of its diameter. Use only special saw chain files.
Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, it is advisable to secure the bar. When sharpening, it is necessary, keeping the position of the holder and pressing the file to the sharpened edge, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. Do not try to press too hard on the file, the movements should be smooth and measured. Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are sharpened in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth in one direction, then change the position and do the same with the teeth in the other direction.
When sharpening all teeth, file the same number of strokes at the same pressure. This will result in the same tooth length. All cutting teeth must be of the same length. Different tooth lengths cause uneven chain running and cracking. If the length of the teeth is not the same, all cutting teeth must be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.
After several sharpening of the cutting teeth, the depth gauge is ground. To do this, a template is superimposed on it so that the limiter falls into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slot is grinded with a flat file.
The principle of using another set for sharpening chainsaws is no different from the first, although its design is different.
A round file is also used for sharpening the cutting tooth, and for sharpening the depth gauge. Flat. A special template provides parameters for sharpening both cutting teeth and stops. In the first case, it is superimposed on the chain in such a way that it falls into its slots. The file, placed on the template and brought under the cutting edge, rests on the guide rollers. The direction of movement of the file must be parallel to the lateral edges of the template.
When sewing the stopper, the template is applied so that the stopper falls into the slot, near which it says SOFT (for soft wood) or HARD (for hard wood). As in the case of the first device, the file is seamed with smooth, even movements of the flat file away from you.
The round file is installed in the holder and fixed with special clips. There are several markings on the plane of the holder that indicate a specific sharpening angle. When straightening the chain with a file with a holder, the markings on the device are placed parallel to the chainsaw tire, which allows you to accurately maintain the required angle.
Flat should have a width of no more than 1 cm. It is convenient to sharpen the stop tooth using a special bar (filing gauge), which is installed on the chain and shows to what maximum depth the tooth must be sharpened in order to achieve optimal performance of the chainsaw.
This device allows you to hold the bar of the chainsaw while sharpening. For its correct use, the process must take place directly at the cutting site. The clamp is hammered into a tree or board, then the tire is clamped into it and securely fixed against displacement. The device can be used for all types of tires, regardless of size.
In some cases, for example, in garage conditions, instead of a clamp, you can use a conventional vise, the tire is clamped in them so that the vise jaws do not interfere with the free movement of the chain. Further, sharpening is performed according to the usual scenario.
Work order step by step
Chainsaw chains must be sharpened to the same length. In this case, one should focus on the length of the tooth itself.
Chainsaw chain sharpening starts with measuring the length of the "visor" of any blunt teeth. The angle between the blade of the "visor" and the side at the time of sharpening must not be changed. In the event that the "visor" is slightly inclined downward, the degree of the angle should be exactly 90 °. Otherwise, sharpening will not be effective.
As each tooth is sharpened, its internal bore inevitably widens, so care must be taken to keep its base in a permanently horizontal position. The hole width does not have any effect on the efficiency of the saw.
Each tooth has a depth gauge that adjusts how far the saw tooth enters the wood blade. The distance between the tip of this limiter and the "peak" of the tooth should be equal to 0.5-1.2 mm. And this value should always be constant.
The automatic chain sharpening machine in one stroke is able to grind the stop and the tooth to the same thickness. In order to preserve the original parameters of the hole rounding in the depth gauge, it must be corrected after every third or fourth grinding. This will prevent the saw from "stumbling", leaving gaps and unnecessary jags.
How to sharpen a chain for a household chainsaw correctly and quickly
The sharpened chain ensures efficient, safe and precise chainsaw operation. Sharpening chains for chainsaws is carried out as they become dull. You can gauge the degree of wear on the saw chain by its tension. In the event that the chain is "stretched", we can say that it needs sharpening. For example, professional lumberjacks can do this 3-4 times a day, while in domestic conditions this need arises much less often. The frequency and intensity of instrument use have a significant influence here. As soon as the operator notices that the saw is going slower than usual, it is time to sharpen the saw chain.
- Chainsaw sharpening instructions
- Necessary tools and devices
- Chainsaw cutting teeth sharpening
- Grinding the restraining tooth
- Work order step by step
- How to do without sharpening longer
In addition, the condition of the chain can be determined by the chips coming out from under the saw. A well sharpened chain will produce uniform chips and sawdust of the same square shape. A dull chainsaw generates large amounts of dust and sawdust in the form of long needles, reminiscent of sawdust from a hand saw.
Necessary tools and devices
It is best to have your saw chain sharpened by a specialist. This is quite justified if there is no automatic chain sharpener at hand, and there are no special skills to work with it. You can tweak the chain at home using a cylindrical file of the appropriate diameter. To do this, you need to prepare a flat file and a special combination template suitable for a particular saw. A vice can significantly facilitate the work, which will free your hands to work with the tool.
Each link of the saw chain acts as a small planer, and the degree of sawing efficiency depends on the difference in the height of the guard tooth and the cutting tooth. It is this difference that determines the depth of the cut into the wood. The ideal difference is 0.5-0.8 mm.
Sharpening angle grinder
Professionals consider this work to be primitive. There is a risk of tire damage, and more.
Process (seemingly easy, but really difficult)
- The chain also stays on the bus;
- We attach a metal cutting disc with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm to an angle grinder. It is advisable to take not a new one, that is, with a worn edge;
- We put an obstacle in front of the chain and the tire (the chip will come off);
- We sharpen at the right angle;
- Upon completion of work, the chain must be properly tightened.
With a professional approach and a "full hand", the number of sharpenings in this case can be more than 7.
“For a beginner, it’s better not to“ experiment ”with a saw, chain, etc. With your body parts! "
Advantages of the method: Fast, cheap and does not take away energy;
Disadvantages: You need special skills, a steady hand and the ability to comply with safety techniques.
We sharpen the chainsaw chain with our own hands. All possible and available ways
“The lumberjack working with a blunt ax was advised: – Sharpen the ax.
He replied: – There is no time. The forest must be cut down. "
Greetings to all readers!
Today I decided to tell you about the tool, without which, it seems to me, today it is simply impossible. A good tool should work well, and this largely depends on its owner.
Cleaning the autumn garden, preparing firewood for winter, building a bathhouse, repairing a wooden fence will require not only time and desire, but also the readiness of the "cutting" tool. If it is a chainsaw, then it must be properly sharpened.
Of course, there are paid specialists, and you, for example, have extra money But we know that such a procedure is performed periodically, and therefore a natural question arises: how to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home? I’ll tell you about that. Go!
In this article, you will learn:
The design of such a machine is similar to a bow saw. Only where the saw blade is located is the round file. With such a machine, you can sharpen and straighten teeth, adjusting the proportionality of the upper edges to the smallest (control) size. The mechanism allows you to accurately set the parameters. After adjusting the "control" tooth, sharpening is carried out in two or three movements. And then the transition – to the next tooth.
When it is necessary to grind off the stopper, we change the round file to a flat one.
Advantages of the method: Allows you to sharpen teeth, including those that have lost their original shape, with high quality, convenient and without great physical costs.
Disadvantages: The price of the tool and the distance from the possible site of the saw operation.
What to choose for sharpening is up to you. This is due to how often you use your chainsaw. From the accuracy of handling it. From the quality of the purchased chain. And, of course, from the opportunity to spend a certain amount. It is impossible to compare the methods, because as the German proverb says – "apples should be compared with apples."