What tools are required for laying gas concrete blocks?

Variety of tools for laying aerated concrete

Trowel, or trowel for aerated concrete, is a dispenser of mortar. To comply with the geometry of the rows is very important that the thickness of the joints was the same along the entire length. And this is only possible when the mortar or adhesive is applied evenly.

Characteristics and peculiarities of use

Trowel for applying adhesive on aerated blocks from different manufacturers to have a very different configuration.

According to the form of comb for aerated concrete is:

The distributing edge of the trowel for aerated concrete has a ridged contour, the tooth size varies from 4 to 10 mm. The working part of the tool is made of sheet steel by stamping, the handle is attached to the back of the bucket.

What kind of trowel is needed to lay aerated concrete

How to make a trowel for aerated concrete with your own hands

The best solution is to make a toothed trowel for aerated concrete yourself. If desired, you can copy one of the factory models.

The manufacturing process will look like this:

12 types of basic and auxiliary tools for laying aerated concrete

When working on aerated concrete, especially cellular concrete, specialists in the construction industry recommend using the manual version.

Handheld electric trowels are popular among builders, thanks to their ease of use and mobility.

Positives of hand tools:

The table shows the pros and cons of the bucket-cell:

Trowel for aerated concrete Ytong 250 mm, price

The material of which the work surface is made.

Stainless steel Handle material Wood Purpose ?

Trowels are used for batch application and leveling of cement plaster, tile adhesive and other mortars.

For concrete Country of production Russia Shape ?

The form of the trowel depends on the type of work performed. If it is used for plastering, it must necessarily have even edges. rectangular or trapezoidal shape, but for throwing mortar use special

Tips for working with aerated concrete

The thickness of the joint of the mortar is too thick when using a toothed trowel

• To cut through the joints in aerated concrete it is advisable to use an angle grinder with a diamond wheel for dry cutting. The strokes are then quickly and easily removed with the stitch cutter.

It’s best to cut aerated concrete using a “multi-material” disc

• To accelerate the process of erecting a house as lintels over door and window openings, as well as for the arrangement of the reinforcement belt, it is easier to use ready-made U-blocks. But if you want to save money, you can make such an element yourself from a whole block.

The process of making homemade U-block

• The speed of erecting the house directly depends on the quality of laying the first row of aerated concrete. If it is laid perfectly level, then the masonry of subsequent rows is faster and easier.

To fit the first row, you can use a grinder

• Do not mason a row from two corners toward each other. This will make it difficult to perform the dressing of the rows and the fitting of the last element by size.
• To lay the last block in the row, it is necessary to lay the last two blocks without glue, cut the last element taking into account the thickness of the joints. Then we put the cut aerated concrete block on the glue first, and then the whole element.
• To join the blocks in the rows do the following. First lay the last aerated concrete block perpendicularly to the other wall. That way it becomes the first in the next row. Then we measure the distance and saw off the element to the required size. After that perform masonry with glue.
• Sawing options for the gas block:

Tips for choosing tools for working with aerated concrete

You will be useful tips from folk craftsmen on the choice of a particular tool:

• For cutting aerated concrete it is better not to use a hand saw. For these purposes, a saw-alligator with a blade with pobedite tips will be more suitable. So you save time and effort.

An example of cutting aerated concrete with further chipping of the cut part

• Some people believe that a sabre saw makes the process of sawing blocks much easier.
• For alignment of blocks in a row you can use a grinder. But it is worth using a dust protector.
• For even and quick application of the adhesive you can make such a device (see “The Adhesive Application Tool”). see photo below). It is also suitable for vertical joints.

To carry aerated concrete blocks you can make such a handy tool (see Pic. below).

• For longitudinal positioning of the block a level of about 2 meters long should be used, and for transverse alignment a shorter tool can be used.
• For shrinking the gas block on the mortar we use a rubber mallet.

Based on the experience of folk craftsmen can make conclusions about the need for and feasibility of a particular tool. So we decided to summarize and make a list of tools that will greatly facilitate the work with aerated concrete and accelerate the process of erecting a building:

• A hacksaw (pobedite-tipped is best).
• A 60 cm and 2 m long spirit level.
• Trowel (preferably a trowel specifically for aerated concrete).
• Water spirit level or spirit level.
• Grinder or hand tool (25-50 cm wide and 0.8-1 m long).
• Planer.
• Concrete mixer or slow-speed drill with mixing tip.
• Plummet.
• A rubber mallet (the weight depends on the weight of the block, at least 300-400 grams).
• String or fishing line for trimmer.
• Stretch cutter.
• Wood circular saw (with a tipped circular saw blade).
• A 2 to 2.5 m extension cord and a 10 m extension cord.
• Wall platforms or scaffolding for laying upper rows.
• Tanks for mixing glue.

Aerated concrete is ideal for low-rise detached houses

Tools for working with aerated concrete blocks

It’s faster to build a house with aerated concrete blocks than with bricks. To retain the material’s thermal insulation properties, the thickness of the joint between the elements of masonry is reduced to 2-5 mm. With the right glue and the right tools for applying it, you can save time and nerves. In the article we will tell you what and when it is better to use, and if there is a difference between the quality of specialized and universal equipment.

To trim the blocks, you need a sharp hacksaw with a fine tooth. There are special saws for aerated concrete. They are thicker than other types to cut elements of high strength, but builders also use non-specialized saws, most importantly, they must be sharp and with tips on the teeth. It is faster and more convenient to cut with a saber or band electric saw. They cost, starting from 10 thousand rubles. rubles. Mark the blocks or cut them with a square, so as not to spoil the geometry. You can solder the angle piece yourself.

To lay strokes for communications and fittings need a special cutter. They come in manual and electric. If you want to save money, you can attach a second disk to the angle grinder, which would divert the dust when working.

For glue use a trowel one block wide with teeth. Such aerated concrete manufacturers as Aeroc, HH and Itong make it to the size of their products. But it is inconvenient to scoop up glue with a wide tool. The trowel is easy to break, so it is better to buy a spare one, so as not to interrupt construction at an inopportune moment.

If in your area these companies are not represented, finding a suitable trowel can be a problem, but on the Internet you can easily find templates to make it yourself from a sheet of metal or attach the trowel to the bucket for scooping mortar. Some articles advise to apply glue trowel, and equate with a toothed trowel, but if you have little experience in masonry, it will lead to an overspend of adhesive solution. To increase the speed of work on straight areas, it is convenient to use a carriage. Its size should match the width of the blocks to create a thin joint.

The edges of aerated concrete blocks should be smooth and even. To do this, use a sanding board, if the imperfections are insignificant, and planers on the concrete, in more serious cases. Products with good geometry does not need a strong correction, so if you choose a high-quality building material, you will simplify the entire work. To increase the speed, use a grinder. Fit tightly one block to another can be a rubber mallet. A metal hammer will damage the wall, although there is a way out here, too. pick up a rubber nozzle.

Do not forget to check the level and level with a construction cord after each block is laid. After 10-20 minutes, depending on the glue, it will be difficult to change the situation. It is especially important to put the first row correctly.

If you have blocks without special handles, it is inconvenient to lay them evenly in a row, so large aerated concrete manufacturers sell grippers for different sizes.

In addition to the basic set you will need:

When choosing equipment, you need to consider the time interval (it is better to put the blocks in summer, in clear weather) and the number of working hands. In one season it is difficult to erect a box of a two-story house with hand tools, if you do not work all day. Electric saws, grinders increase the rate of erection by times.

Not everyone can make a quality tool with their own hands, so if you have the opportunity to buy everything in the store, do not neglect it.

The table shows the average at the beginning of 2016. Data compiled from official suppliers and major construction stores in Russia.

Name	Price, rubles
Hacksaw Ytong, 65 cm	2500
Saw ARCHIMEDES, 55 cm	400
HN hacksaw	340
Concrete saw “Zubr	1300
Carriage HH, 40 cm	1900
Trowel 200 mm	350
Trowel trowel 200 mm (Poland)	600
Planer HH 450902018,0 mm. with a handle L-228mm	620
Stitch cutter HH, manual	500

for tools for laying aerated concrete Ytong, HH, Aeroc not always differ from other manufacturers, but their products are ideal for working with blocks. To make a wall of cellular concrete is flat, strong and warm, you need to make a thin joint. Working with special tools is easier and faster, don’t be lazy to buy them. Most companies that produce aerated concrete, offer everything for work, so when ordering material in advance think about what you need for masonry. It is not forbidden to use self-made and universal building devices, but all equipment must comply with technological parameters.

Tools for working with aerated concrete

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Fabrication of reamer cutter from angle grinder

Stroitbolz cutter from angular grinder

To reduce the cost of laying blocks, without purchasing expensive equipment, you can make some tools for aerated concrete with your own hands. To do this, a simple angle grinder is adapted to perform grooves and shrews.

Tip: When using such a machine, a large amount of dust is generated. In order to protect people, it is necessary to use protective equipment.

Instructions for making the fixture:

• An additional disk is attached to the angle grinder;
• The first one is fixed in the usual way;
• To fix the second one, another nut is selected, with a nail washer, to fix the disk;
• At the angle grinder, rebuilt by stroborezna, installed a special safety cover, which will direct the dust in the direction opposite to the person;
• A vacuum cleaner mechanism is made and connected to the back of the hood. The tube is fastened with clamps.

Using a vacuum cleaner to collect dust

Homemade trowel

Using a trowel to apply the adhesive solution

The weak point of any trowel, regardless of its cost, is the breakage of the handle when connecting it to the working bucket. it happens because of the low force applied to the block of adhesive, and the mortar itself has a fairly large mass.

In this case, the most dynamic load is applied at the connection of the handle with the bucket, which leads to gradual loosening over time, and the handle breaks off after about 30-60 days of intensive use of the tool. The process of making a trowel is fairly simple.

• A ladle template is cut out of paper;
• A sheet of steel is marked out;
• The workpiece is cut out;
• Using the mallet, the bucket is bent to the desired shape on the anvil;
• The seams are welded together;
• Using an angle grinder the teeth are sawed out on the working edge;
• To ensure that the handle is securely fastened, a hole is drilled through its entire length;
• A metal bar of the corresponding diameter is inserted into the handle;
• On one side, the rod is riveted under the “hat”;
• A hole is drilled on the bucket at the location of the handle by the diameter of the bar;
• A rod is inserted into the hole on the bucket so that the “cap” completely covers it;
• On the other side of the rod, a thread is cut;
• The wooden base is put on and fixed with a nut.

Tip: To increase the reliability of the connection, you should put a grover washer under the nut.

Homemade trowel

Planer for aerated concrete with their own hands

Self-made planer

Use a planer to level the protruding parts of the gas concrete blocks. This is a wooden board with a handle on one side, and working elements on the opposite plane, arranged at an angle, made of 8 to 10 segments of a carbide saw.

To make the planer, you need to prepare:

• The board is 50 mm thick;
• A handle from a broken tool. It can be made from a bar;
• Glue that glues metal and wood together, such as Moment;
• Several segments of fragments of the blade of a fine-toothed saw.

Important! The saw must be of carbide steel, otherwise frequent tool dressing will be required.

The assembly of the product is carried out in this sequence:

• On the edges of the board are made cuts. four. five on each side, at an angle of about 70 ° to the longitudinal axis of the base;
• The saw or its fragments are broken to the desired lengths;
• Pieces of saws are inserted into the prepared slots, after applying glue to them;
• After the glue dries, the planer can be used.

It is recommended to make a special device for the planer, which will limit the removed layer from the blocks. Two boards 20. 30 mm thick are taken for this. The elements are fastened crosswise with two slats so as to create an opening equal to the thickness of the gas block.

Self-made planer with ten blades

Design features

The tool for the application of a special adhesive solution in its structure differs from the trowel for concrete and plaster. In appearance, this device is a bucket of rectangular shape with a handle. There is a row of teeth on one end that sets the height of the glue joint. Their sizes range from 4 to 10 mm.

Depending on the width of the gas silicate block one can choose the trowel.

The width of the tool is found from 7 to 40 cm. These dimensions correspond to the standard width of the blocks.

The material used in the manufacture of stainless steel or black steel. Some products are coated with a special paint. In addition, there is an advanced model. carriage. With its help you can apply large volumes on wide surfaces, which is important in large-scale construction.

In addition to metal tools, plastic trowels are available for sale. Their advantage is the low cost, while the quality is low. Such devices are used in case of single laying blocks.

For easy work trowel provides a handle with rubber or plastic holder. According to its shape it can be both flat and smooth, and grooved.

All this allows you to work accurately and efficiently. Because of the original bucket shape, the gas concrete adhesive is used economically and strictly for its intended purpose.

The choice of tools

To laying aerated concrete was correct and durable, without the use of special tools can not do. To prepare concrete mortar you will need. an industrial mixer, a container for mixing. In order to apply the mixture, you will need. several trowels of different sizes. To fit the aerated concrete blocks between each other. a special hammer and measuring level. If the treatment of aerated concrete block is provided, then it would be a good idea to stock up on such tools as, ruler, planer, saw, grout, equipment for grooving, nozzles on the drill, drill, brush.

Preparation of mortar

To date, there are two methods of masonry AAC products with their own hands, this masonry AAC blocks on mortar and adhesive mixture. But, regardless of the chosen method of laying, the first row should be laid on the cement mortar. The dosage of the components should be such, so that the resulting masonry mixture does not spread, because otherwise the block will not lend itself to fixing. If the construction is large, it is much more convenient to mix the mortar with the help of a concrete mixer instead of your own hands.

Glue mortar

To obtain a homogeneous texture of the mortar, it is better to use equipment with low speed for mixing. To mix the glue from five kilograms of dry mixture, a liter of water is poured into the vessel. Pour the dry glue slowly into the jar and whisk at once. Allow the mortar to stand for ten minutes, and then again whisk thoroughly. Glue mortar can be considered ready when it becomes similar in consistency to a thick sour cream. If the glue is dry and hardened, it is forbidden to dilute it with a new mixture or water.

Cement-sand mixture

Such mortar can be used in order to perform laying by blocks. It is made by mixing all the ingredients and a special binder. These formulations are easy to make and safe to use.

The formulation of such mixtures may vary slightly, depending on the task required. If it is necessary to get a more plastic mixture, then clay is added to the mix. Such a mixture in operation does not crumble and does not crumble, allowing you to accurately and easily lay the building material. The use of special plasticizing components in the cement mixture for aerated concrete allows high-quality installation of facade walls. Such a mixture is very economical, gives good insulating properties, easy to use and laying. Due to its advantages, many workers still work more often with this mixture rather than with glue.

What to choose?

The use of glue. a rational, profitable and correct decision.

When carrying out construction work, specialists are not only interested in how to lay aerated concrete, but also which mixture to choose. After all, both the first and the second option have a lot of advantages. Please note that both mixes have a much higher thermal conductivity than the blocks. From this it is obvious that the joint width determines the thermal insulation of the whole building. If you use a cement mixture, the width of the joint will be about 9 millimeters. In the case of the adhesive, the width of joints does not exceed 3 millimeters.

Given that the price of glue is higher, one can initially assume that its use will significantly increase the cost of installation work. But, taking into account its minimum consumption, in reality the cost increases very little, and the building comes out much warmer. But if you use a cheaper cement mixture, it becomes clear that it is needed much more and the cost of installation will inevitably increase. From this comparison, it becomes clear that the use of glue when laying on the blocks. a more rational solution, profitable and correct.

Laying technology

Before you start installation work with your own hands, you need to unpack the blocks and place them next to the laying row. When performing construction work on the installation, it is better to use a special adhesive mixture. In the case of such a choice, you will be protected from the formation of cold mots in the masonry. It is not recommended to use cement mixture, because, despite its low cost, the expense is much higher, and the joints look messy and too wide. Also such a choice worsens the thermal insulation of the future house.

Before you start masonry installation of blocks, it is worth putting special beacons. Install them in the areas of the adjacency, around the perimeter of the facade. They are needed for leveling, to fix with their help a special wire, which controls the evenness of walls and partitions. Fix the wire with galvanized nails. Also do not forget that the masonry instructions. this is an important element of any construction operations.

Kneading the mixture

For preparation, you need to prepare a special container and an industrial mixer. Special dry mixture and warm water are used to mix the mixture. Keep beating until the mixture is homogeneous by consistency. It must be worked out for 20 minutes, because of this small doses are kneaded. During the operation of the adhesive, it must be constantly stirred, so that it loses uniformity.

If construction takes place at low temperatures, it is necessary to use a special type of masonry mix. It contains special components that prevent freezing, which allows it to retain its characteristics even at low temperatures.

Marking

Marking for the first row of AAC.

The walls are laid only after the complete marking of the building products. The marking is carried out along the axes of all surfaces of the future facade. After that the material is taken, delivered to the place of installation and distributed along the selected axes. When performing the tying procedure, use incomplete material, which will be located at the corners.

From this it follows that first you need to do the cutting of products. It is not difficult to perform, because the cutting is done with a saw or hacksaw. So that all the structures were evenly cut, it is worthwhile to use a special ruler when marking. It is also necessary to prepare in advance the materials that will later be reinforced.

First prepare the blocks that are necessary for laying the first row, then make grooves for reinforcing bars during the installation of the facade.

Finishing

Once the walls are erected, you can begin decoration, both internally and externally. There are a huge number of ways. plaster, putty, tile, wall paneling, facing with bricks and more.

• To perform installation is desirable in the temperature range from 4 C to 26 C;
• Between the walls and the foundation is useful to make waterproofing;
• Carefully perform the first blocking to make combing easier in the future.

Basic

You are going to do the works related to aerated concrete on your own? Knowledge of the basic tools is required. There are not many special tools, they are quite uncomplicated.

Bucket trowel

The main purpose of a trowel for aerated concrete is to apply the adhesive solution, its even distribution on the surface. This is an indispensable tool for laying aerated concrete with their own hands. The edge of the trowel ends with a number of teeth. Regardless of whether the work is carried out horizontally, vertically. bucket-kelma significantly speeds up masonry.

Its other name. a carriage for aerated concrete. The material from which the equipment is made is polished galvanized coarse sheet metal, capable of withstanding the heavy mortars that are used in construction. The trowel for aerated concrete can be of different shapes, width. depending on the type of work.

Among its advantages are the following:

• Suitable for fine stonework. up to 3 mm;
• Allows you to make an even coating of the surface of the adhesive mixture;
• mortar does not spill over the surface.

Stroborez

During construction there is a need to make slots in the wall surface for wiring, fittings, pipes. the work will facilitate aerated concrete stubbing cutter. The tool for aerated concrete may be manual or works from an electricity source. Manual. more convenient, lightweight, creates little noise, dust, but it can only be used when working with lightweight materials, for example, if there are cells in the aerated concrete.

Electric strombolzor copes with harder surfaces: concrete, reinforced concrete, masonry. Externally, electric stroeborezchik looks like a grinder, strobes are cut with special discs. When working with the device you need to wear protective equipment. goggles, headphones, respirator or mask. a lot of dust is formed during the creation of the strokes, the device itself is quite noisy.

Planer

Placing each layer of blocks is preceded by leveling the previous row. this is the purpose of the planer. In addition to leveling, such a tool for working with aerated concrete cuts off protruding areas.

Planer looks like a construction float. wooden base with two inserted plates of fine-toothed saw, convenient handle for a secure grip of the tool. This arrangement allows you to carefully cut and level out uneven areas.

During construction, some craftsmen replace the special planer with a carpenter’s planer, a half-fugganok. It will prolong the terms of work. you will have to spend extra time on constant sharpening of the tool teeth, the process of leveling will require more force.

Trowel

Is a rubber mallet, the main purpose. the alignment of surfaces in the process of laying. Gas concrete blocks are fragile, the use of an ordinary metal, wooden hammer will lead to the destruction of the material. Rubber will gently remove irregularities, without harming the structure of the surface.

Saws

Often in masonry walls, a piece of a block is needed to complete a row. In such cases, it is sawn with a special hacksaw. The cutting tool is accompanied by squares to obtain geometrically correct shapes with even edges. If you need to saw a large number of blocks with your own hands, it is advisable to use an electric band saw. Externally, a hacksaw for cutting aerated concrete does not differ from an ordinary hand saw, but it is made of more durable materials. it does not allow the plate to deform during cutting.

Trowel

Looks like a smooth small board with an attached handle for a firm grip. This tool is used to remove relatively small irregularities, grinding the surface before plastering, puttying. In addition, before laying each new row, with the help of a grater align and grind each previous row.

Auxiliary

In addition to the list of mandatory tools, without which the construction work will take longer, and the result will leave much to be desired, there are tools for aerated concrete, the use of which is not necessary. To carry materials, each block has grooves for a comfortable grip. But if they are not available, it is necessary to use a special tool. a grip, which looks like two crossed levers.

Construction level

During masonry. especially the primary one. it is important to ensure that the horizontal surface does not deviate from the straight line. There is a huge number of construction levels. it absolutely does not matter which one you will use. Specialists, however, recommend buying a laser tool. it is more accurate, can show the flatness of surfaces, corners, diagonals. If funds do not allow to buy such a tool, the usual water one will do. check it for serviceability directly in the store.

Spatula

Primarily used in the puttying process, it is a thin metal spatula made of a thin sheet of durable material that is subjected to minimal deformation during operation. This allows you to easily apply a thin layer of construction compound on the surface. The trowel can be used to grind up chips, seams, clean up small protrusions, level the corners of surfaces in places inaccessible to other tools.

Angle

The function of the angle is defined as drawing even, straight lines before cutting, by which the material will later be sawed. The main components of the angle piece are a base, a ruler with an inch and metric scale. The tool can be made of any material. most often wood, steel.

The cord is as important a tool as the building level during the laying of aerated concrete blocks. You will need it to check the walls for evenness, the presence of misalignment, which can lead to a number of problems in the future. You can buy or make construction cord by yourself. it’s enough to fasten the weight at one end of the cord, and tie a small loop at the other end. In this way you can check the flatness of not only vertical surfaces, but also horizontal. it is only necessary to fix the cord on previously stretched pegs, evenly, tightly pull.

Hammer

In addition to the mallet you will need an ordinary iron hammer. It will be useful for leveling the vertical row. The size of the hammer directly depends on the dimensions of the blocks. the larger, stronger the block, the larger the hammer is needed. It is important to approach the process carefully, so as not to allow the material to collapse.

Recommendations for the work

Masonry walls of aerated concrete in builders do not cause any special difficulties. However, it is worth adhering to some recommendations.

• The thickness of the load-bearing walls should be chosen taking into account the region where you live and the peculiarities of the climate. According to SNIP, for arid areas located in warm areas, a wall thickness of 38 cm will be enough. For colder regions the minimum thickness of supporting walls is 60 cm. For the internal partitions block thickness of 75 to 200 mm is used.
• If you still decide to build thin load-bearing walls, it is worth taking care of quality insulation. In the construction of country houses with the use of aerated concrete blocks 28-30 cm wide will require insulation of the walls with a layer of mineral wool. Walls with a thickness of 30-36 cm are insulated with plastering. It is better to use silicone plaster for the work. Plastering with fiberglass reinforcement mesh firmly protects the walls from the formation of cracks.
• Aerated concrete block is a very fragile material, so masonry walls of aerated concrete blocks will not do without defects. Some of the material is also damaged in the process of transportation when driving on rough roads. As practice shows, 5-10% of the aerated concrete block will go to waste. This is worth considering when purchasing the material.
• High hygroscopicity of the material requires quality protection against overwatering. When erecting walls, plaster acts as a waterproofing layer, protecting the surface of the blocks from degradation. The material’s properties can easily absorb moisture, forcing the builder to treat the surface with water-repellent impregnations. This prevents delamination, protects the surface from cracks and preserves the insulating properties.
• A house made of aerated concrete requires a good heating and ventilation system.
• To ensure the integrity of the material, a house of aerated concrete blocks requires the construction of a solid foundation, not subject to natural ground movements. Monolithic foundation is an excellent solution and allows to eliminate this problem.

The quality of construction of the future home depends on how properly it was produced aerated concrete masonry technology requires its strict observance.

Waterproofing

Masonry of the first row of aerated concrete blocks requires special attention and careful execution of work. Lay a layer of waterproofing material on the ready, dried foundation. For waterproofing, which protects the aerated concrete walls from moisture, roll-fed and coating materials are most often used.

Marking

Before starting the work, carry out the external marking and string limiting cords or a thin rope around the perimeter to mark the boundaries. To speed up the work and make more accurate markings it is best to use a laser level.

Foundation height deviations should not be more than 40 mm. In case of big differences in height it is necessary to bring the height of foundation to permissible levels.

The first row

Masonry walls of aerated concrete blocks begin with the formation of corners. Corner blocks are installed using cement-sand mortar. To prepare it, cement and sand must be thoroughly mixed in a 1:3 ratio.

The laying of aerated concrete blocks is carried out using adhesive, prepared according to the instructions. It is diluted until a homogeneous mass, containing no lumps. Glue is applied with a brush to vertical joints. For work it is most convenient to use a small keel equal to the width of the block. This will speed up the process of carrying out the work and help reduce the consumption of adhesive.

Aerated concrete blocks require preliminary preparation. cleaned from dust and dirt with a brush. The first row is laid on the concrete mortar, connecting the blocks with glue. They are stacked at the same level, avoiding height differences. A rubber mallet is used to adjust the paving height. Adjustment of the material is carried out with a special hacksaw.

After laying the first row, it is better to wait about 5-6 hours until the concrete mortar will harden and firmly fix the material in the right position. the dried out row is ground to level out the joints and smoothed with the emery board.

Laying subsequent rows

Now you should not hurry and immediately proceed to the installation of subsequent rows. The cement-sand mortar should firmly set. This will help prevent the walls from shifting from the desired level in subsequent work.

All of the following rows of blocks of aerated concrete are laid on the glue mortar. After laying each row it is checked that all levels are maintained, the surface is smoothed out with a sanding board.