Which blade is good for a miter saw

How to choose the right one?

In modern renovations, miter saw blades for aluminum, plastic and stone are most often required. These materials are actively used to create modern decor.

In order to choose a blade for soft metals and polymers, you need to know that there is a difference in sawing a hollow structure or a dense solid. The quality of the cut here mainly depends on the number of teeth. So, to obtain a result close to ideal, with hollow structures, it is better to use discs with a large number of teeth. Dense material is better sawn with a small-toothed nozzle.

An important criterion is the thickness of the disc and the material from which it is made. The best choice is a solid carbide (high carbon) metal cutting attachment. It lasts longer and can be re-sharpened. The same cannot be said for welded teeth.

This quality is inherent mainly in European brands. The cost when choosing an expensive brand name pays off during operation.

Good quality can be noted in the brands Bosch, DeWALT, Makita, CMT. The same firms also produce construction tools, including miter saws.

If we talk about the angles of inclination, then for soft materials such as plastic, it should be negative. This gives the cleanest cut possible. The shape of the teeth is quite varied. The universal drive may be the best option. You can never go wrong with him.

A simple alloy of metals is not enough to perform a high-quality cut in stone. A harder material is needed here, in the role of which is diamond sputtering. In this case, the decisive factor in the selection is the grain size of the abrasive coating. The larger it is, the less beautiful and high-quality the end cut will be. Fine diamond plating is much more useful and clean. But to prevent overheating of the engine, it is better to choose not the smallest value.

It should be noted that the blade of such circles only remotely resembles teeth. Their design is more like a periodically divided, monolithic cutting blade. The shape is explained by the fact that the sawing is carried out due to the friction of the abrasive against a hard stone.

All about miter saw blades

A tool such as a miter saw is not familiar to everyone. Despite the large number of materials that this tool can cut, its main purpose is specific. Therefore, such a saw is often used by professional finishers. At home, it does not become necessary so often. However, when you do not want to overpay for repairs, it makes sense to purchase all the necessary tools to make your work easier.

But in this case, you need not only to understand the principles of working with it, but also to understand the consumable parts of this tool. The main of these parts is the cutting disc.


A miter saw is a tool designed to make straight cuts at a given angle. The saw cut angle can be either 90 degrees or 45. Its main advantage is that it copes well with long details and unusual shapes of surfaces. A striking example of these is a plastic floor plinth.

But this tool has other features.

The miter saw can cut a large number of equal (given size) miter and straight slots. That is why it is a must in the set of craftsmen for the manufacture and assembly of furniture and doors.

The appearance of this unit resembles a conventional circular saw (circular) mounted on a movable arm. It allows the discs to descend not only vertically, but also at any angle of inclination. This tool can cut various materials:

  • wood;
  • metal (in particular aluminum);
  • plastic;
  • a rock.

As with any saw, the type and quality of the blade depends on the material chosen. For the most effective work, you need to choose the right component.

Features of the

Saw blades have a number of basic parameters that help differentiate them.

  • outer diameter;
  • inner diameter;
  • number of teeth;
  • tilt of the teeth;
  • the shape of the teeth;
  • product thickness.

Outside diameter is generally not a significant indicator for cutting speed. He is responsible for the cutting depth. It can be determined by the inner diameter of the saw cover. A large circle (305-355 mm) is not placed on a product with a smaller casing diameter. (By the way, it is not recommended to remove the protection for safety.) Most often, products with an indicator from 130 to 250 mm are taken for such a saw.

The inner diameter must have the same value with the dimensions of the power shaft on which this product is fixed. If it is larger, then when the saw is operating, the off-center disc creates large vibrations, which leads to severe wear of the bearings and the shaft itself, as well as breakage of the disc or its teeth. In addition, such a fastening is a gross violation of the work regulations, and is dangerous for humans.

The cutting speed depends on the number of teeth on the disc in direct proportion. In addition, a large number of them gives a smoother and more accurate cut. But there is also a significant drawback of this approach. it is the increased load on the sawing tool engine. There are disks:

  • with a large number of teeth (from 80 to 90 pcs.);
  • with an average number of them (from 40 to 80 pcs.);
  • small-toothed (up to 40 pcs.).

For high-quality sawing, the inclined angle of the teeth is also very important. It is fixed by the deviation of the cutting edge of the tooth from the radius of the saw blade. This parameter can be:

  • standard (the angle varies in the range of 5-15 degrees);
  • positive (tilt 15-20 degrees);
  • negative (from 0 to minus 5 degrees).

Finally, the configuration of the prong. Each shape is designed for a specific cut. Therefore, a tooth is distinguished here:

  • flat. cuts longitudinally at high speed;
  • trapezoidal flat (alternation of high in the form of a trapezoid and low flat teeth). cuts wood, plastic and soft types of metals (aluminum);
  • interchangeable (the teeth have an alternate slope to the right and left). helps to cut wood, chipboard and composites cleanly both along and across;
  • combined (one flat cutter follows four replaceable ones). completely universal;
  • interchangeable with a larger sloped side. used for choppy types of material, as well as for clean cuts at right angles.

As for the thickness of the saw blade itself, the thickness of the cut depends on it. The standard is 3.2 mm. If the indicator is higher, then this will reduce the amount of material, and if it is much less, then this will lead to overloading of the equipment and possible deformation of the disk.

However, when working with each type of material, there are also peculiarities of saw accessories.

Circle replacement

When performing repairs even at home, the periodic change of materials also requires the replacement of the saw blade. It is not difficult to change it, but it is still worth knowing the correct sequence of actions for your own safety.

It is necessary to start by installing the protective plastic casing (if any) in the upper position. To do this, unscrew the side auxiliary bolt, raise the structure, and then fix it with the same bolt, just in a different position.

Next, take a hexagon, which unscrews the clamping bolt in the center. In this case, on the back of the saw, it is necessary to press the button of the shaft locking mechanism, which is a stopper. It prevents the shaft from moving. Therefore, while holding it, you can press out the central bolt using the hexagon. Then the bolt must be unscrewed (you can use your hands), remove the side stopper (looks like a wide washer) and then the disc.

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Installation is carried out upside-down. The disc is put on the shaft, then a lock washer is placed, then the bolt is screwed in by hand until it stops. To clamp the nozzle, you must press the button, and while holding it, tighten the central bolt to the limit using a hexagon.

Once the saw blade has been mounted, it can be checked for strength with a slight longitudinal movement. If there is no backlash, the installation is correct, and you can start cutting.

For information on how to sharpen a miter saw blade, see the video below.

Selecting a Blade for a Sliding Miter Saw

Tips and rules for choosing trimming

In this block, we will give short advice on the main points of choosing a miter saw for wood and optimal technical characteristics.

Speed ​​control

This feature allows you to customize the saw for certain materials. Different types of wood, materials based on it, plastics, plexiglass, etc. require different values ​​of the number of revolutions of the disk.

Cutting depth limitation

This feature aids in grooving or trimming jobs by limiting the depth to which the disc can plunge.

The main thing about choosing disks

All important information about the disc is indicated in the label. You can find it on the canvas. Knowing what exactly to look for, you can easily choose a disc for yourself, however, many points are not as obvious as you would like. If in doubt, it is better to consult a consultant than to take risks and take the disc “by eye”. Often, the best option is to consult with someone with real work experience. If this is not possible, be guided by two main characteristics: determine the diameter that suits a particular saw, and choose a blade depending on the material that you will be sawing.

Miter saw speed

This is another important technical feature. The most common values ​​are from 2800 to 6000 rpm. A high-quality cut without defects, chips and wood splitting is possible only at high speeds. For example, if the saw blade diameter is 260 mm, then the minimum rotation speed is 2800 rpm. Professional models of miter saws are capable of developing 4-5 thousand revolutions per minute, even with a large diameter disc installed.

which, blade, good, miter

Illumination of the working area

Built-in backlight provides comfort when working in low light conditions. You will be able to clearly see the workpiece during work, even if the ambient light is not very good.

Miter saw device

The main components of any miter saw are an electric motor and a saw blade. They are connected by a gearbox. a part that transfers the power of the motor to the saw blade. Together they make up the functional unit of the miter saw. The engine is turned on using the switch on, which is located on the handle.

The entire unit is mounted on a base called a bed. A turntable is fixed on it, with which you can set the required cutting angle, as well as a stop. For high-quality units, the beds are made of aluminum alloys. This makes them lightweight yet reliable.

The part that connects the functional unit and the bed is called a pendulum. It is a pivot arm that houses a spring-loaded hinge. The presence of a pendulum gave the second name to miter saws. pendulum saws.

The pendulum can be used to control the working module. Initially, the saw blade is positioned above the workpiece. Using a lever, it is lowered down, immersed in the material. The bed has a special cut through which the disc passes.

As for the rotation of the tool disk in the horizontal plane, for a row of saws it can be carried out only in one direction. from an electric drive.

Miter saws cannot cut very wide workpieces. For example, with a 255 mm diameter cutting disc installed, the trimmer will be able to cut a 90 mm workpiece at a right angle. When choosing a different angle, the maximum allowable dimensions of the workpiece are reduced.

To achieve a wider cutting width, a traction function is added to the saws. With such a tool, the function block can move along the mowing line of the cut. A similar tool is called broach miter saws.

Dust extraction system

To remove dust that forms during work, use a nozzle and a dust bag or a construction vacuum cleaner. Using a vacuum cleaner is the best option, as it makes it possible to remove even the smallest dust that appears when working at high disc speeds.

The dust extraction system is very important, even if you need to choose a saw for home use. Large amounts of dust generated during the cut will clog the tool and also remain in the air you breathe. In order to preserve the tool and health, it is better to immediately foresee this moment.

Remember the characteristics of your instrument

Start choosing a blade by looking at the technical features of the circular saw, remembering three indicators:

  • Landing size. the diameter of the power shaft corresponding to the inner hole of the saw blade.
  • Permissible outer diameter of the working nozzle, limited by the size of the protective cover.
  • The spindle speed is a value set by the manufacturer, always less than the maximum possible speed for the disc used.

It is permissible to put a disc with a “non-native” fit through an adapter ring, sometimes present in the kit. A smaller outer diameter can be used, taking into account the reduction in the depth of cut. Locating pins found on the spindle of some models require a disc with appropriate through holes.

Choose a drive for specific tasks

For neat cross-cuts in solid wood, decorative plywood and other panel materials, use a 50-60-tooth blade, which makes the bead look almost planed. Do most of the operations when high quality is not required with a cheaper 40-cutter wheel. Use a disc with 18–25 teeth to cut solid wood along the grain, and in a circle with 10 teeth, spread the boards, constructing the frame of the sheathing, or carry out dismantling work in which chips do not matter.

Cut non-ferrous metals and plastics with discs with 60 or more incisors: with a negative tooth inclination for a thin-walled profile and positive for a thick-walled one. For cutting gypsum-fiber and cement-containing materials, take special wheels with 4-6 teeth, reinforced with artificial diamonds.

Do you want to get the perfect cut of the furniture board immediately for finishing sanding? If your circular is at least semi-professional, use a 40-cutter blade with straight / trapezoid teeth and negative tilt (designed for aluminum and Laminated Chipboard). Drive the saw slowly against sensitive resistance, possibly at full power. The result will be worth the inconvenience: the cut will come out smooth. for “zero”, and you will save the time that was previously spent on finishing the front edges.

There is no saw blade that fits every tool that can deliver quality and productivity at the same time. We have to select several options, taking into account the most frequently performed tasks.


A miter saw is a tool designed to make straight cuts at a given angle. The saw cut angle can be either 90 degrees or 45. Its main advantage is that it copes well with long details and unusual shapes of surfaces. A striking example of these is a plastic floor plinth.

But this tool has other features.

The miter saw can cut a large number of equal (given size) miter and straight slots. That is why it is a must in the set of craftsmen for the manufacture and assembly of furniture and doors.

The appearance of this unit resembles a conventional circular saw (circular) mounted on a movable arm. It allows the discs to descend not only vertically, but also at any angle of inclination. This tool can cut various materials:

  • wood;
  • metal (in particular aluminum);
  • plastic;
  • a rock.

As with any saw, the type and quality of the blade depends on the material chosen. For the most effective work, you need to choose the right component.

Reciprocating saw blade sharpening

I wonder who has mastered the subtleties of sharpening these files? I am sharpening chain, and there are machines, manual ones too, I master carbides, I love sharp tools, but I haven’t even tried saber saws, I don’t understand which profile. Although you still have to, blunt files are already piling up.

Herat wrote: but I didn’t even try saber saws, I don’t understand what profile

The shape of the tooth is easy to see in the photo.It is enough to have a new file

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.I’m sharpening. Ten rubles per tooth. Contact.

sereza wrote: i’m fine. Ten rubles per tooth. Contact.

sharpen without a smile?

sereza wrote: i’m fine. Ten rubles per tooth. Contact.

You need to contact you dear sooner. The topic is about the subtleties of sharpening, and not about the subtleties of voluntary taking money from citizens. For the required fee, I will buy a couple of new.

Vollob wrote: They are not that expensive

Vollob wrote: Would you still try to sharpen jigsaw files

Easy. For example, I sharpened with a file, a large tooth on wood. Almost new file, drove over a brick, and what? Throw it out? I have sharpened it and have been working on it for a month now.

Well, the profile of the tooth is not such a problem. and how to do a divorce. especially for bimetal

sereza wrote: i’m fine. Ten rubles per tooth. Contact.

what if I’m learning a substitution ?

Michael. I agree with you. Himself so undermined a couple of times. No problem. With fine-toothed metal files it will already be more difficult, and unequivocally irrational

the bungler wrote: well, the profile of the tooth is not such a problem. and how to do a divorce. especially for bimetal

the bungler wrote: well, the profile of the tooth is not such a problem. but how to do a divorce. ?

I have a handcrafted contraption for divorce, but probably you can’t dilute it with jig saws.

Pekkonen wrote: not always. just to be in the know. “

Well, this is a special case. Yes, and the specified file is extremely difficult to sharpen. The tooth is very small. I’m not even talking about further setting the teeth.

.no substitution. Any file, after my sharpening, looks like new. The quality is guaranteed. Please contact. I will not share the secrets of sharpening. I can only show the place where this happens:

sereza wrote: I can only show the place where this happens:

I have already forgotten about them cunning.

In general, it is clear. secrets, buy a new one. I’m going to buy a grinding disc for a machine tool and a small file.

herat wrote: I’m going to buy a grinding disc for a machine tool and a small file.

.go further: ore. steel. forging. cutting teeth. sharpening (regrinding). (I apologize for the fact that I clung to you. But, really, the topic is cute and brutal at the same time. That is how it hooked me. Well, I don’t want to choose an electric screwdriver with a vacuum cleaner every single day, by God.)

by the way. at the expense of the vacuum cleaner.

the bungler wrote: by the way. at the expense of the vacuum cleaner.

Yes, you dear friends with sereza “local trolls, lovers to screw up any topic with empty traffic. Meanwhile, for those who are interested, having successfully picked up a diamond file and turned a stone for a machine tool along a chainsaw chain, he perfectly sharpened five of his files with a large tooth. And he spread the teeth slightly, with subsequent sharpening it will be necessary to have more, now there is an adaptation. I often saw boards with nails.

Sharpening saw blades for wood

Dullness of the cutting edge is determined by some signs:

  • increase in resistance when feeding the material;
  • possible appearance of smoke and burning smell;
  • overheating of the saw blade.

Do-it-yourself sharpening of saw blades on wood is done, not necessarily on special sharpening machines. You can use regular emery with a diamond cup. When sharpening, follow the instructions:

  • The perpendicularity between the sharpened tool and the emery wheel must be respected.
  • It is necessary to feed the disc to the sharpener.
  • The amount of sharpening depends on the pressing force of the tool against the emery.
  • When sharpening, it is necessary to maintain the angle of inclination of the cutter.
  • Repeat the operation for each tooth.

Rating of saw blades for wood

The list of the best brands includes cutting tools from the following companies:

  • circular saws of the Italian company CMT;

What is an electric saw for??

The application is practically unlimited. Using a variety of blades. you can cut firewood, carefully cut a blank for a window frame, cut out an old door frame, cut a brick or asbestos-cement pipe, cut a metal corner.

The main advantage of this tool is the ease of use and its weight. Compact specimens are easily held with one hand, allowing you to work in uncomfortable positions and reach the most difficult to reach places.

Which blade to choose for a miter saw

But, do we all know how to competently approach the choice of saw blades for our tool?

Often, for various reasons, you have to neglect the purchase of additional consumables. Many people try to get by with one standard disc included in the saw kit. This is understandable, because a good saw blade costs from 70 to 100 dollars, or even more. But, nevertheless, if sawing work is coming and at the same time it is not at all included in the plans to burn the saw engine, then it is better to approach the issue of choice with all responsibility.

The main dimensions of circular saws are the diameters of the outer circle, the bore and its thickness, which, as a rule, are indicated on the saw blade.

Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Monolithic discs dull quickly enough, require periodic sharpening and set of teeth. But, such a disc can withstand several regrinds, which are not difficult to do on your own.

The shape of the tooth can have both negative and positive angles. This angle is formed between the leading cutting edge of the tooth and a line drawn from the center of the disc (Fig. 1).

The sharpening geometry of the saw blade teeth affects the quality and cutting speed. To date, the following forms of tooth sharpening are most common: flat tooth sharpening, alternating sharpening slope and trapezoid-straight tooth.

Flat (straight) sharpening (Fig. 2) is used for rough and fast carpentry cuts in solid wood, when the quality of the cut does not matter.

The alternating slope of sharpening is well suited for cross-cutting clean cuts in hard and soft wood, plywood (Fig. 3).

Trapezoidal sharpening (fig. 4) is ideal for work on laminated chipboard, plastics, non-ferrous metals. This sharpening prevents the laminate from splitting, the trapezoidal tooth performs the rough cut, and the following flat tooth ensures clean cut edges.

If you cut the laminated material with saws with “oblique” sharpening, the main load falls on the top of the triangular corner, which leads to its rather rapid dullness and the appearance of chips. And on cutters with a “trapezoid” there are no sharp corners, so the durability of such saws will be higher than on saws with “oblique” sharpening.

Discs with a negative angle are used when cutting a thin-walled profile, while the burrs at the exit are reduced. With a positive angle of inclination of the cutting edge, saws are used when cutting a thick-walled profile. To increase the lateral load resistance of such saws, the bodies are made thicker than saws made of laminated material.

It is better to make a longitudinal cut with a disc with fewer teeth, a positive angle of inclination of the teeth and large cavities between the teeth for ejection of sawdust. For a disc with a diameter of 230-250 mm, the recommended number of teeth should not exceed 18-24 pcs.

Saw blades are also commercially available with feed stops in the form of protrusions behind the carbide brazing of each saw tooth, which limit excessive increases in feed rate or irregularities (Fig. 5). In addition, the stopper prevents damage to the cutting edges by dropping knots.

When choosing a blade for a specific job, you need to pay attention to the angle of inclination of the saw teeth, sharpening geometry, expansion slots, protrusions following the tooth to provide an emphasis, grooves between the teeth.

Unfortunately, there are no such discs that can equally well cope with various materials and tasks, and even with the ability to install on any type of instrument.

The reason for this is the different trajectory of the disc feeding to the material. So, blades for pendulum saws must have a negative angle of inclination, then the cutting part of the teeth is more efficiently used with the least load on the engine. The efficiency is much higher than when using a disc with a positive tilt angle. In the latter case, along the trajectory of the pendulum to the workpiece, the disk will be partially “buried” with the back of the tooth, while the load on the engine increases, productivity decreases, and overheating occurs.

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To make sure of this, it is enough, with the tool turned off, to carefully trace the moment at the point of contact between the teeth and the material. Most preferably, the saw teeth are angled to the material so that it can be “cut” rather than “chopped off”. In the latter case, chips at the exit are provided.

It is not advisable to install an expensive imported blade on a saw with high axial and radial runout. There are, for example, such discs that have an edge runout tolerance of 0.05%. Some saw bodies undergo additional honing of the bore holes. It is quite obvious that their use on household-class machines is not justified.

To increase the resource and expand the saw’s capabilities, manufacturers use a number of operations. These include: laser cutting of saw bodies, application of radial grooves, reworking and coating of the saw body, slots to reduce noise and vibration.

When choosing a saw blade, take it in your hands and look at the light in the direction of the saw blade. In a “normal” saw, the traces from the grinding tool will diverge in circles from the bore, while the “budget” saw will not have such traces. This suggests that in the first case, the saw was grinded separately, i.e. calibrated after cutting from the sheet. In the second case, they grind. calibrate the entire sheet (if they do it at all). It is obvious that the balancing and uniform distribution of internal stresses, which occurs in the work, will be maintained in the first case more.

A good saw will also have the inscriptions made with a laser, and not with paint, which will quickly be erased. The inscriptions on the disc will help with its further maintenance. All these and other survey results will tell how much the manufacturer saved on saws and thought about his consumers.

In order for the disk not to “lead” on its body there are temperature compensators, which are slots 1-2mm wide and 15-20mm long. These slots are located radially from the interdental cavity and end in circular holes. On some blades, these holes are filled with a copper rivet to reduce vibration and better cool the saw.

The most important parameter of high accuracy for a circular saw is the absence of deviation from the plane of the saw blade, minimized its end and radial runout. The purity of processing, productivity, working resource of the tool depends on this.

Thinner saws have the advantage of requiring less energy and less material loss to sawdust. But, they are less stable in work and require more “gentle” handling, therefore, for heavy working conditions, thicker saws should be chosen.

Which blade is good for a miter saw

Saw blade. the “weapon” of your miter saw. And it depends on its quality, efficiency and purpose what kind of material you can work with using your miter saw.

Naturally, the main material for which miter saws are used is wood of various species (soft and hard), as well as woodworking products. veneer, plywood, chipboard, etc. However, modern end saws are increasingly used for processing other materials as well: plastics, plastics, laminates and even soft metals.

With all the variety of choices, the main characteristics of saw blades intended for use on end saws are the dimensions of the diameters. landing and external.

The classic rim for most miter saws is 30 mm.

This characteristic varies greatly depending on the manufacturer of the saw blades. Of course, there are the most common disc sizes. It. 210 mm, 216 mm, 255 mm, 305 mm.

Picking Circular Saw Blades | Table Saw | Miter Saw

Important! All manufacturers of miter saws describe in the instructions for use of the equipment, which saw blade diameter is standard for a particular saw. Do not risk using discs of non-standard diameter on your trimming! Its mechanism is designed to work with specific disc sizes, and the use of non-standard consumables can provoke severe beating, the appearance of chips and burrs along the mowing line of the cut (which is often mistakenly attributed to the low quality of the saw blade), the curvature of the mowing line of the cut, as well as rapid overheating of the end motor. saws. The parameters of the protective cover on the unit are also designed for this, which do not just do not allow the use of enlarged saw blades.

However, there are far more serious and less obvious differences between saw blades from different manufacturers. It. the method of their manufacture, the material of the saw blades, as well as the sharpening and geometric shape of the cutting teeth.

Solid saw blades are not suitable even for semi-professional use. They become blunt faster, require a set of teeth, give a cut of the worst quality. Yes, practically no one produces them.

There is also a way in which discs are manufactured in production. For example, the highest quality discs (consider the example of Bosch) are cut from blanks exclusively using a laser. This allows for the highest possible alignment of the saw blades on the miter saw shaft, as well as the best possible balancing of the blades and, accordingly, their increased durability in use. The cutting edges of the discs are also specially processed to increase their service life without the need for additional sharpening.

Thicker teeth withstand side loads better!

The angle of the cutting teeth is specially selected for the material to be cut.

In particular, for cutting metal tiles, plastic and aluminum, saw blades with cutting teeth are used, which have a negative angle of inclination of 5 degrees. Here it is important that the teeth have a different shape of sharpening: odd. trapezoidal (for rough sawing), even. straight (for fine cutting of thin materials). Discs with the above configuration are perfect for, for example, thin laminate sheets. And for thicker ones, you will need discs with teeth of the same shape, but with a positive angle of inclination of about 15 degrees.

For sawing wood and materials containing wood, blades with a positive angle of inclination and one-sided sharpening with alternating direction are required. This is the most versatile type of sharpening, used for fast cutting of wood across and along the grain, cutting multi-layer composite materials or plywood. These blades give clean cuts and sharp edges in wood.

Also, do not forget about the number of teeth on the disc.!

which, blade, good, miter

For coarse sawing of construction timber, formwork with adhered residues of concrete, aerated concrete, etc., saw blades with 12-16 teeth (for example, the Bosch Construct Wood series) and a special profile with increased resistance to foreign bodies in the wood are required, i.e. concrete, nails, etc. For high-speed longitudinal cutting of wood, a saw blade with 20-24 teeth is enough. It removes sawdust effectively and performs well on soft woods. 36-48 tooth blades are better for cross cuts and work with hard wood and wood-containing materials. If you are dealing with laminated chipboard, you need even more: 40.64 teeth. At the same time, the cutting speed will decrease, the load on the saw will increase, but the cutting line will be clean.

Remember: the more teeth a saw blade with carbide teeth has, the higher its cost, because the bulk of the price of a blade is formed precisely from the amount of carbide taps.

If you have noticed, most of the saw blades from the professional category are also “decorated” with through dot cuts or wavy lines. These patterns are usually created with a high-precision laser and have nothing to do with embellishment. Their functional purpose. compensate for thermal deformation in heated discs and reduce the noise level emitted by the miter saw during operation.

Still have questions? We have qualified consultants to help you find the perfect tooling for your tool and work purpose. Just call: