There are 1 highly-rated local lawn mower repair shops.
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Recent Lawn Mower Repair Reviews in Oberlin
I am very pleased with them. They cleaned up after. Very good. The price was reasonable. I would recommend them to others.
The blades on my two-stage snowblower stopped rotating during a recent snowstorm. Fulton’s picked it up the same day that I called. Estimate the next afternoon. Returned the following day. During the middle of the winter! I’ll continue to use them for any future lawn mower or snowblower repairs.
If I could give them zero stars that is what they deserve. I guess the one star is good for the free pickup and return. My riding lawn mower would start and then shut down after running about 4 minutes. LB people said that they were going to rebuild the carburetor that would fix the issue. After having the mower for about 3 weeks, they dropped it off and left before I could even start it up. After turning it on, the motor shut down in less than 5 minutes. They didn’t fix a thing! It is still doing the same thing that I called them about. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY show more
Very happy with how healthy and happy our lawn seems after two years of service. We have also seen a decrease in unwelcome insects since using the flea/tick application. Will continue to be customers through the future.
I cannot speak highly enough about this company. Their professionalism, integrity, customer service and responsiveness is stellar. They provide in depth information to help you better understand the process of the service they provide. We engaged their services initially for lawn maintenance then moved to have our lawn re-seeded. I’ve seen marked improvement overall in appearance. We have a problem lawn and Good Nature provided a solution that our previous service provider of 15 years never even considered. If there is a problem they are quick to respond and address the issue. Organic services are not cheap, but well worth the cost overall. I highly recommend this company show more
They have been wonderful and I really prefer their products to my previous lawn care company. I would recommend them to anyone.
I called on Wednesday, they came to pick up my mowers the next day, and they completed the work and delivered the mowers back to me the following Tuesday. Very happy with their service.
I broke my brand new snowblower and needed it fixed quickly before the next snowstorm. I saw something about Five Star property services on a page, so I contacted them. Within about 15 or 20 minutes, I had an appointment for the next day for my snow blower to be picked up and repaired. Not only were they friendly and responsive, but they were reasonably priced and turned the snowblower around within a few days. They provided me with updates along the way, and did exactly what they said they would do. I was very pleased and very happy that I came across their company. I plan to use them again in the future for other projects/tasks show more
Excellent people. The way they treat customers is top. They explained everything that was needed to fix my mower and then it felt like on the parts they did not added any extra. Which I appreciated.
If your snow blower needs work, call this service provider. I requested a quote on Monday, the day before an expected blizzard. They offered to come that afternoon and do an on-site evaluation for 45. Because they were so busy they could not come until 9:30 that evening, but they did come and assessed they needed to take my snow blower into the shop for a carburetor cleaning. They said it would return it the next day, and apply my site visit charge to the overall bill. They returned my snow blower the next day at 2 in the afternoon, and I used it for three hours clearing my driveway and helping two neighbors. I don’t want to think how bad this day would have been had it not been for this provider’s excellent service show more
Last update on July 7, 2023
Lawn Mower Repair Services in Oberlin
Buckeye Mower is a full service outdoor power equipment repair company serving greater Columbus, Port Clinton and Sandusky. We travel and come to you
The guys at Buckeye mower did a bang up job. My 20 year old Bunton now runs as good as when I bought it used 17 years ago. Zips though 7 inch tall grass like it was nothing. (of course, it really depends on the mower…) They did troubleshoot the problems with the mower and informed me that the voltage regulator was not charging the battery. They did not have one with them but told me how to fix it if I wanted to go the less expensive route and fix it myself, which I will do. Also, what I wanted from them was an honest evaluation of whether or not to keep the 62” old beast, hoping for a yes answer. I was not disappointed, telling me to sharpen the blades and change the oil once a year. Maybe I’ll get vintage plates for the Bunton! The visit, advise and tune up were well worth the money. I highly recommend their service. show more
Walker mower engine rebuild
Main Office: 636-257-2400 l Customer Service: 636-257-1700 l Technical Support: 844-252-0114 | info@WalkerProducts.com
Fuel Injectors Repair Kits
Fuel Injectors, whether Throttle Body Injection (TBI), Port Fuel Injection (PFI) or Direct Injection, are controlled by the vehicle’s onboard computer (Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Engine Control Unit (ECU), to meter and atomize the correct amount of fuel entering the engine under all operating conditions. TBI injectors spray a fuel pattern into the engine’s throttle body. PFI injectors spray a more precise fuel pattern into each individual runner of the intake manifold. Direct Injection injectors utilize much higher pressures to spray fuel directly into each cylinder of the engine.
Walker also offers a full range of Fuel Injection Repair Kits so that you can service all types of fuel injectors during regular tune ups and maintenance. Repair kits offer solutions for bulk packaging of components, individual injector service kits and individual components for every repair instance.
Common causes of Fuel Injector failure: Component failure Fuel line leak Injector clogged with deposits or debris Low grade fuel (can rust and corrode the fuel system)
Symptoms of a failing Fuel Injector may include: Poor start or no start Difficult acceleration Engine surging Rough idle Poor fuel economy Check Engine Light on
The following OBD II error codes are the most commonly found with this product type. On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) systems are integrated into the computers of our vehicles to monitor emissions. The first generation of OBD requirements was implemented in California in 1988. Since then, these requirements were adopted by the US EPA for all passenger vehicles manufactured after 1996. In 2005, OBD systems then also became mandatory for heavy-duty vehicles and engines up to 14,000 lbs. GVWR. In 2008 the EPA finalized OBD regulations for 2010 and later heavy-duty engines used in highway vehicles over 14,000 lbs. GVWR and made changes to the OBD requirements for heavy-duty applications up to 14,000 lbs. GVWR to align them with requirements for applications over 14,000 lbs. GVWR.
OBD II is now the standard in diagnosing vehicle emissions in. The codes listed for this product type are common instances that may relate to your vehicle and should be used as a guide only. Walker Products will not be held responsible for any use of this information. It is highly suggested that you consult with a professionally trained mechanic prior to any automotive repair, and that you follow all vehicle manufacturer and EPA guidelines for removal, replacement, diagnostics, OBD II code clearing, ECU and PCM relearn procedures.
o P00BB Fuel Injector Insufficient Flow – Forced Limited Power o P02CC Cylinder 1 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02CD Cylinder 1 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02CE Cylinder 2 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02CF Cylinder 2 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02D0 Cylinder 3 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02D1 Cylinder 3 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02D2 Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02D3 Cylinder 4 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02D4 Cylinder 5 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02D5 Cylinder 5 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02D6 Cylinder 6 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02D7 Cylinder 6 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02D8 Cylinder 7 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02D9 Cylinder 7 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02DA Cylinder 8 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02DB Cylinder 8 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02DC Cylinder 9 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02DD Cylinder 9 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P02DE Cylinder 10 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Min Limit o P02DF Cylinder 10 Fuel Injector Offset Learning At Max Limit o P0611 Fuel Injector Control Module Performance o P0612 Fuel Injector Control Module Relay Control o P062B Internal Control Module Fuel Injector Control Performance o P062D Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Performance o P062E Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Performance o P2146 Fuel Injector Group “A” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P2147 Fuel Injector Group “A” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P2148 Fuel Injector Group “A” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P2149 Fuel Injector Group “B” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P2150 Fuel Injector Group “B” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P2151 Fuel Injector Group “B” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P2152 Fuel Injector Group “C” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P2153 Fuel Injector Group “C” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P2154 Fuel Injector Group “C” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P2155 Fuel Injector Group “D” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P2156 Fuel Injector Group “D” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P2157 Fuel Injector Group “D” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P216A Fuel Injector Group “E” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P216B Fuel Injector Group “E” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P216C Fuel Injector Group “E” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P216D Fuel Injector Group “F” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P216E Fuel Injector Group “F” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P216F Fuel Injector Group “F” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P217A Fuel Injector Group “G” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P217B Fuel Injector Group “G” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P217C Fuel Injector Group “G” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P217D Fuel Injector Group “H” Supply Voltage Circuit/Open o P217E Fuel Injector Group “H” Supply Voltage Circuit Low o P217F Fuel Injector Group “H” Supply Voltage Circuit High o P268A Fuel Injector Calibration not Learned/Programmed o U0105 Lost Communication With Fuel Injector Control Module o U0306 Software Incompatibility With Fuel Injector Control Module o U0406 Invalid Data Received From Fuel Injector Control Module o P0171 System Too Lean o P0174 System Too Lean o P2096 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean o P2098 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean o P2177 System Too Lean Off Idle o P2179 System Too Lean Off Idle o P2187 System Too Lean at Idle o P2189 System Too Lean at Idle o P2191 System Too Lean at Higher Load o P2193 System Too Lean at Higher Load o P0172 System Too Rich o P0175 System Too Rich o P2097 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich o P2099 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich o P2178 System Too Rich Off Idle o P2180 System Too Rich Off Idle o P2188 System Too Rich at Idle o P2190 System Too Rich at Idle o P2192 System Too Rich at Higher Load o P2194 System Too Rich at Higher Load o P0170 Fuel Trim o P0173 Fuel Trim o P029A Cylinder 1 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P029B Cylinder 1 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P029E Cylinder 2 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P029F Cylinder 2 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02A2 Cylinder 3 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02A3 Cylinder 3 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02A6 Cylinder 4 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02A7 Cylinder 4 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02AA Cylinder 5 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02AB Cylinder 5 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02AE Cylinder 6 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02AF Cylinder 6 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02B2 Cylinder 7 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02B3 Cylinder 7 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02B6 Cylinder 8 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02B7 Cylinder 8 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02BA Cylinder 9 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02BB Cylinder 9 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02BE Cylinder 10 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02BF Cylinder 10 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02C2 Cylinder 11 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02C3 Cylinder 11 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit o P02C6 Cylinder 12 – Fuel Trim at Max Limit o P02C7 Cylinder 12 – Fuel Trim at Min Limit
Lawn Mower Ran Out Of Gas won’t Start (Here’s Why)
Running out of gas happens to me all the time. After all, mowers don’t have a fuel gauge. But when your mower won’t restart after refilling, you may be left wondering what you did wrong.
Lawnmower ran out of gas won’t start? The most likely cause of a no-start mower after running out of gas is dirt in the carburetor, but other possible causes include:
In this short post, I’ll share why dirt in the carburetor is the most likely cause of the no-start. But we’ll also cover other possible causes.
This post covers your problem pretty well, but if you need video help, check out “Carburetor cleaning video”. It covers the removal, strip down, cleaning, rebuild, and carburetor refit procedure, step by step.
Dirty Carburetor
Dirt in the carburetor is, as you know, the most likely cause of the no-start. No, it’s not a coincidence that it happens at the same time as the gas tank runs flat.
It is, as you’ve probably guessed, a result of the mower sucking the bottom of the gas tank, and that’s where all the crap lives. Your mower should have a gas filter fitted, but they don’t catch everything. Besides, the sediment in the bottom of the tank is usually so fine it has no problem passing through the fuel filter.
The fix is to clean the carburetor. Some carburetors are easier to work on than others. So just before we pull the carburetor apart, we can try a quick fix – Draining the carburetor bowl.
This is a simple job and will very often fix the problem. (more on that below)
Air-locked Gas System
Just before we get to the carburetor cleaning quick fix, I want to introduce the next highly possible cause of a no-starting mower. And that is an air-locked fuel system.
The reason I mention this now is that the fix for air-locking is the same as the carburetor cleaning quick fix. So we’ll be killing two birds and all that. You may be asking why does your fuel system air-locks when your mower runs out of gas.
Dry gas tank – A dry gas tank is also prone to air-locking.
When the fuel lines run dry, they are replaced with air. Refilling the tank pushes the air toward the carburetor. However, if the gas tank isn’t filled to the top, the weight of the gas may not be sufficient to push the air completely out of the system.
Trapped air in the fuel lines means no gas getting to the engine. The usual fix is to release the air by opening the carburetor bowl drain, but just before we do that, we’ll try to release the airlock by tapping on the gas bowl.
Tap – Try tapping on the bowl with the gas cap removed before moving on to opening the gas bowl drain bolt.
Carburetor Bowl Drain
Draining the carburetor bowl is a simple job. Many engine manufacturers include a separate drain bolt in the bowl which makes the whole job super easy. The carburetor fuel bowl is located behind the air filter and attached to the underside of the carburetor. The fuel bowl or gas bowl is a reservoir of fuel. Its job is to store enough gas to feed the engine.
The fuel bowl is designed to catch debris that makes it past the filter. There are two common types of fuel bowls, those that have a useful drain bolt and those that don’t.
Draining the bowl will release trapped dirt and air from the fuel system. It’s not a substitute for cleaning the carburetor, but as said, very often draining the bowl for a few seconds or so is enough to clear the debris.
Carburetor bowl drain bolt – This model has a drain bolt, so the bowl doesn’t necessarily need to be removed.
With the bowl drain removed, the gas should flow freely from the carb; if not, check out the fuel filter and needle seat for possible blockage.
Carburetor bowl removal – This is a common BS engine, and the bowl needs to be removed to drain the bowl.
In addition, it’s very important to clean the fuel feed bolt; this is the most common cause of no starts on this type of engine.
With the bowl removed, the gas should flow freely from the carb; if not, check out the fuel filter and needle seat for possible blockage. If draining the bowl worked out for you, fantastic, but if it didn’t, check out this guide on “Carburetor cleaning”.
Faulty Carburetor
It’s worth noting small engine carburetors cause lots of issues. I replace a ton; the symptoms can vary widely.
But hot starting issues are definitely one of them. However, the customer usually complains about hard starting issues all the time, not just after running out of gas. Some carburetors will be very obviously damaged (corrosion), but most won’t show any visible signs of damage or wear.
A faulty carburetor is on the list of suspects and will move higher on the list if you have removed the carburetor, cleaned it, and it made no difference.
Contaminated Gas
It’s worth checking the gas can you use to fill the mower. We’ve all done it; put something other than gas in the mower. It’s a simple mistake, especially if you’ve got some old gas cans from last season.
Gas only stays fresh for about a month; after that, it can cause all sorts of running problems in a small engine. If you think your gas is the problem, go ahead and drain it out, put some fresh gas in, and she should fire straight up. If she doesn’t, go ahead and drain the gas bowl as per above.
If you find you don’t use up all the gas within a month, either buy less or use a gas stabilizer in the gas can. It keeps the gas fresh for up to two years, and better than that. It protects the fuel systems of all your small engine equipment, including a two-stroke kit.
You can check it out here on “Small engine repair tool page”
Faulty Auto Choke
Auto choke is, as you may know, a feature that most modern mowers have as standard. Briggs and Stratton call theirs “Ready start.” The auto choke systems are very good, but they aren’t without fault. Auto chokes can stick in the on position causing the engine to flood.
This, however, doesn’t have any relationship to a mower running out of gas; that may simply be a coincidence. A sticking auto choke can present as an intermittent issue or a constant. You can easily check if the choke is functioning correctly. Remove the air filter when the mower’s hot, the choke plate shouldn’t be closed.
Auto chokes “On” – This is the correct choke position for a cold engine, but not a hot one.
Auto Choke “Off”
Faulty Coil
The final component on our list is the coil also known as the armature. The coil helps make the spark needed to ignite the gas inside the engine.
Coils have a tough job and are a common failure. A very common symptom of a failing coil is intermittent hot start problems. While I know this isn’t exactly a fit for your symptoms as a failing coil has no relationship with a mower running out of gas, that’s why it’s at the end of our list.
How to Replace the Starter on a Walker MTGHS (Easiest Way)
You can easily and quickly check your mower for spark. I’ve covered it in this post “Mower hard to start when hot”
Related Questions
How do you fix a mower that won’t stay running? The carburetor needs to be removed and cleaned. If the carburetor is badly corroded, it will need to be replaced.
Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.
I’ve worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars to grass machinery, and this site is where I share fluff-free hacks, tips, and insider know-how.
And the best part. it’s free!
Lawn Mower Ran Out Of Gas won’t Start (Here’s Why)
Running out of gas happens to me all the time. After all, mowers don’t have a fuel gauge. But when your mower won’t restart after refilling, you may be left wondering what you did wrong.
Lawnmower ran out of gas won’t start? The most likely cause of a no-start mower after running out of gas is dirt in the carburetor, but other possible causes include:
In this short post, I’ll share why dirt in the carburetor is the most likely cause of the no-start. But we’ll also cover other possible causes.
This post covers your problem pretty well, but if you need video help, check out “Carburetor cleaning video”. It covers the removal, strip down, cleaning, rebuild, and carburetor refit procedure, step by step.
Dirty Carburetor
Dirt in the carburetor is, as you know, the most likely cause of the no-start. No, it’s not a coincidence that it happens at the same time as the gas tank runs flat.
It is, as you’ve probably guessed, a result of the mower sucking the bottom of the gas tank, and that’s where all the crap lives. Your mower should have a gas filter fitted, but they don’t catch everything. Besides, the sediment in the bottom of the tank is usually so fine it has no problem passing through the fuel filter.
The fix is to clean the carburetor. Some carburetors are easier to work on than others. So just before we pull the carburetor apart, we can try a quick fix – Draining the carburetor bowl.
This is a simple job and will very often fix the problem. (more on that below)
Air-locked Gas System
Just before we get to the carburetor cleaning quick fix, I want to introduce the next highly possible cause of a no-starting mower. And that is an air-locked fuel system.
The reason I mention this now is that the fix for air-locking is the same as the carburetor cleaning quick fix. So we’ll be killing two birds and all that. You may be asking why does your fuel system air-locks when your mower runs out of gas.
Dry gas tank – A dry gas tank is also prone to air-locking.
When the fuel lines run dry, they are replaced with air. Refilling the tank pushes the air toward the carburetor. However, if the gas tank isn’t filled to the top, the weight of the gas may not be sufficient to push the air completely out of the system.
Trapped air in the fuel lines means no gas getting to the engine. The usual fix is to release the air by opening the carburetor bowl drain, but just before we do that, we’ll try to release the airlock by tapping on the gas bowl.
Tap – Try tapping on the bowl with the gas cap removed before moving on to opening the gas bowl drain bolt.
Carburetor Bowl Drain
Draining the carburetor bowl is a simple job. Many engine manufacturers include a separate drain bolt in the bowl which makes the whole job super easy. The carburetor fuel bowl is located behind the air filter and attached to the underside of the carburetor. The fuel bowl or gas bowl is a reservoir of fuel. Its job is to store enough gas to feed the engine.
The fuel bowl is designed to catch debris that makes it past the filter. There are two common types of fuel bowls, those that have a useful drain bolt and those that don’t.
Draining the bowl will release trapped dirt and air from the fuel system. It’s not a substitute for cleaning the carburetor, but as said, very often draining the bowl for a few seconds or so is enough to clear the debris.
Carburetor bowl drain bolt – This model has a drain bolt, so the bowl doesn’t necessarily need to be removed.
With the bowl drain removed, the gas should flow freely from the carb; if not, check out the fuel filter and needle seat for possible blockage.
Carburetor bowl removal – This is a common BS engine, and the bowl needs to be removed to drain the bowl.
In addition, it’s very important to clean the fuel feed bolt; this is the most common cause of no starts on this type of engine.
With the bowl removed, the gas should flow freely from the carb; if not, check out the fuel filter and needle seat for possible blockage. If draining the bowl worked out for you, fantastic, but if it didn’t, check out this guide on “Carburetor cleaning”.
Faulty Carburetor
It’s worth noting small engine carburetors cause lots of issues. I replace a ton; the symptoms can vary widely.
But hot starting issues are definitely one of them. However, the customer usually complains about hard starting issues all the time, not just after running out of gas. Some carburetors will be very obviously damaged (corrosion), but most won’t show any visible signs of damage or wear.
A faulty carburetor is on the list of suspects and will move higher on the list if you have removed the carburetor, cleaned it, and it made no difference.
Contaminated Gas
It’s worth checking the gas can you use to fill the mower. We’ve all done it; put something other than gas in the mower. It’s a simple mistake, especially if you’ve got some old gas cans from last season.
Gas only stays fresh for about a month; after that, it can cause all sorts of running problems in a small engine. If you think your gas is the problem, go ahead and drain it out, put some fresh gas in, and she should fire straight up. If she doesn’t, go ahead and drain the gas bowl as per above.
If you find you don’t use up all the gas within a month, either buy less or use a gas stabilizer in the gas can. It keeps the gas fresh for up to two years, and better than that. It protects the fuel systems of all your small engine equipment, including a two-stroke kit.
You can check it out here on “Small engine repair tool page”
Faulty Auto Choke
Auto choke is, as you may know, a feature that most modern mowers have as standard. Briggs and Stratton call theirs “Ready start.” The auto choke systems are very good, but they aren’t without fault. Auto chokes can stick in the on position causing the engine to flood.
This, however, doesn’t have any relationship to a mower running out of gas; that may simply be a coincidence. A sticking auto choke can present as an intermittent issue or a constant. You can easily check if the choke is functioning correctly. Remove the air filter when the mower’s hot, the choke plate shouldn’t be closed.
Auto chokes “On” – This is the correct choke position for a cold engine, but not a hot one.
Auto Choke “Off”
Faulty Coil
The final component on our list is the coil also known as the armature. The coil helps make the spark needed to ignite the gas inside the engine.
Coils have a tough job and are a common failure. A very common symptom of a failing coil is intermittent hot start problems. While I know this isn’t exactly a fit for your symptoms as a failing coil has no relationship with a mower running out of gas, that’s why it’s at the end of our list.
You can easily and quickly check your mower for spark. I’ve covered it in this post “Mower hard to start when hot”
Related Questions
How do you fix a mower that won’t stay running? The carburetor needs to be removed and cleaned. If the carburetor is badly corroded, it will need to be replaced.
Gearbox Replacement on Walker Mower GHS, Lawn Care Vlog #49
Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.
I’ve worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars to grass machinery, and this site is where I share fluff-free hacks, tips, and insider know-how.
And the best part. it’s free!