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Are Lawn Mower Engines Interchangeable? (Solved)
Once an engine deteriorates on a lawn mower, it makes cutting your lawn much more difficult.
There are a few things you can do to prolong the life of a mower, but eventually, it will reach the point of no return.
And is buying a new mower always necessary? Or are lawn mower engines interchangeable?
It certainly would be a lot cheaper to put a new engine in than buy a new mower, but is it feasible?
We take a closer look at that in this article.
Are Lawn Mower Engines Interchangeable?
Lawn mower engines are generally interchangeable, and with a little research, you should have no problem finding a new engine to fit in your mower if your old engine has blown. To make it as easy to mount as possible look for a new engine with the same shaft size and bolt pattern and one that will fit into the space available.
If you are considering swapping the engine of your mower for another one it can be quite an intimidating thought, but remember, as I said, you can swap almost any engine.
And whilst there are a few problems you might encounter (outlined in our infographic above). with a bit of planning they can all be overcome.
A good starting point is to get an engine with the same mounting holes and that is the same shaft size and type as your old engine.
Measure everything up and make sure it will fit under the hood.
And they really are the main things to consider, if all of those factors line up you can interchange the engines fairly easily.
Many engine suppliers such as Small Engine Warehouse and OPE Engines will be only too happy to help as well.
You really should not have a problem finding a new engine that can be easily interchanged.
Honda HT-R 3009 mid engine rider engine swap
as if some of you might know i want to do an engine swap on my mud mower. i want to replace the orignial Honda GXV270 (9hp) with a briggs 5.5 HP push mower engine. im doing this because my original engine keeps breaking down, runs horrible and i always have trouble getting it going. the replacement engine is brand new and doesnt have an electric start so goodbye batterys and wireing.
and here is the brand new engine that will serve me till the end of times
the underside looks kinda wierd but i got it all figured
made some good progress today even though i didnt have that much time (lawn maintainence).
so i started of with making the custom flywheel, as if you can see its bolted directly to the drive pully and also serves as a belt slider (i made this because these engines normaly use the blade as flywheel):
this engine had 3 mounting holes so i obviously had to drill some new mounting holes and weld some sheetsteel in. but i also had to make some bushings to lift the engine slightly (you can see them in these 3 images) :
this one is realy hard to see, its underneath the carb/airfilter:
with the flywheel on, its not even 1/2 inch away from the clutch spring!
my transaxle is not from peerles, tecumseh, foote, dana or whatever. i looked all around it when i had it apart but i couldnt find a single brand, i guess this transaxle was fabricated by Honda and the lower pully was normaly build to power the mowing deck, it will soon be replaced with a bushing:
thats all i did today. i hope your enjoying this how to/build topic, more to come!
I really like this mower, do you have any of the body or do you just run it without? also good thinking on the custom add on flywheel, how does it do offroad
Creepycrawler wrote: I really like this mower, do you have any of the body or do you just run it without? also good thinking on the custom add on flywheel, how does it do offroad thanks, i run this mower without the body because i didnt like the way the orignal body looks, i might however concider chopping the original body and use it aigan. it does very good offroad, the V-tread tires do realy good in the mud, steep hills or hauling heavy stuff. it has an open diff because it works better for my conditions
Craftsman1998 wrote: very nice what’s the motor off of it looks like a push mower engine yep, these engines were originaly disigned for push mowers, im not sure at the moment what model it is but is very similar to the BriggsStratton Quantum engines. these engines normaly use the blade as the flywheel, thats why im making a flywheel myself
I don’t think I’d want to ride around with a gas engine so close to my noogies!
I don’t think I’d want to ride around with a gas engine so close to my noogies! HAHAHA, it seems kinda dangerous but the worst thing that can happen is that the piston will blow out of the cylinder and mess my feet up realy bad, but thats very unlikely to happen i guess.
Step 5: Cleaning the Carburetor
The Carburetor is the number one culprit with engine trouble. It such a important part of a 4 stroke engine that I will have to use two pages to fully explain how to clean it. The number one thing about repairing a carburetor is that they must be very clean. Here are two examples of very common carburetors which you can find on a lawnmower.
As I said before the carburetor must be very clean in order to work. If a carburetor has had gasoline stand in it for more than a year it will gather a gunkey varnish which will have to be remove. This gunk can be removed easily removed by letting the metal parts sit in a jar of gasoline over night. Do not let the plastic parts stay in gasoline for to long or it can rune the plastic. Now for the individual parts starting with the float. To examine the float you will first have to remove the pin making sure you do not bend it. To check to make sure the float is working properly submerge it in water to make sure there are no holes. The float valve itself should be able to move freely and once again needs to be clean. The most common problem with a carburetor is that its jets have become clogged. They are usually made of brass and are sometimes removable. To clean them out simply run a small piece of wire trough them. The main carb body itself has many holes which can also get clogged from time to time. Use a flashlight or a laser to make sure every hole is open, and clean them out with a piece of wire.
Step 7: Fuel Tank and Lines.
If the engine is having trouble starting there is a chance that the hole in the gas cap has become clogged (If your engine has this feature).To check this just lightly screw on the cap, and see if the engine starts. If you need to just run a small gauge wire through the hole to clean it out. When there is only a trickle of gas coming out of the main line you should check the gas tanks filter, which can sometimes be cleaned a little with a light brush. If the gas is still coming out slowly try cleaning the lines this can be done by running a pipe cleaner or something similar through the line until the pipe cleaner comes out clean. Some engines also have push primer which helps create the right air fuel mix for the engine. It should be free of cuts and the air hole should be open.
There are two valves in a 4 stroke engine. The intake valve which injects the air fuel mix into the combustion chamber, and the exhaust valve which lets out the carbon monoxide and what is left after the combustion. These valves are moved by a cam shaft that turns with the engine at a set time. Sometimes these valves will gather junk around the shaft, and will need to be cleaned by a commercial valve cleaner or by hand. The valve should look very nice and feel smooth in order to work. Sometimes the valves will get scratch and leak oil. This is mostly due to not changing your oil. There is nothing that I know you can do once the valves get this bad, and the only thing you can do is buy new ones. The valve heads can also get chipped and will inject fuel at the wrong time and reduce combustion. Once again if the valves get badly chipped you will have to buy a new valve. To remove the valves you will need to press down the compression springs, and remove the valve spring retainer. Now, putting the valve parts back together again can get a little tricky.You will have to first put the spring and the valve spring retainers back into the engine together. Once you have done this you will have to insert the valve back in place. To place the valve spring retainers back on the Valve you will need to press the valve spring retainers a little bit to the side so you can push the valve into the large hole of the valve spring retainer. Then you will need to press the spring and retainer down so you can lock the valve spring retainer in place. Some valves also have something call a sleeve which you will need to very delicately put on top of the valve and below the valve.
Step 9: Spark Arrestor
The spark arrestor is not a very important part of a engine, but a part that is required by law on all outdoor engines. As its name suggests it catches sparks that come out of the engine and prevent fires. Most spark arrestors cannot be opened and can only be cleaned with a wire brush which will break up most blockages.
To examine the piston you will have to separate the two halves of the engine. Doing this can be dangerous to your engine which I would not recommend. When you separate the two halves do it very slowly prying all around the engine. Once you have separated the two halves disconnect the piston from the crank shaft. Now push the piston out through the combustion chamber. First check to see if the gaps in the rings are lining up when you pull the piston out of the engine. If they are there is probably nothing wrong with your piston, and all you will have to do is align the piston ring gaps at about a 90 degree difference so that the oil cannot leak through. If this is not the case check the cylinder walls for scratches which could be letting in the oil. After you have done both these steps and still find no error you can the assume that your piston rings have gone bad. To remove the rings a tool called a ring compressor should be used, but two pairs of pliers can also work(just do not push the rings to far).It is very important that you do not put the wrong ring on one of the groves. Once you have placed on the new rings you should scatter the gaps in the rings ( I like somewhere around a 90 degree difference) then give the rings a little bit of engine oil so they go in easily. Before you put the piston in make sure it is in the right direction according to the markings. you may need to squeeze the rings a little to get the piston into the cylinder. Now you simply need screw everything back together
Replacement engine for push mower
I need to replace the engine for a Snapper self propelled push mower that’s about 18 years old. The deck is quite similar to the one here and is still in good shape for the most part. It’s actually my favorite deck design that I’ve used for a mower. This is for residential use. Here is a similar mower on the Snapper website. https://www.snapper.com/na/en_us/product-catalog/push-mowers/commercial-walk-mowers.html
Bef0re making the actual purchase I will measure/verify the shaft specs, but by looking up the model number I’ve determined they should be 25mm x 3-5/32″. The old motor is a 12H802-1987-B1. I don’t believe it is worth rebuilding, and there is light scoring in the bore. I believe this is a 6HP motor with 12 cu inches displacement. New motors appear to be substantially smaller on average, and I am concerned about placing an under-powered motor on the deck.
My first choice is probably the Honda GCV160. My only concern is that it is 40cc smaller than the motor it will be replacing. I am aware that it is an aluminum bore consumer motor, but so is the one that lasted for 18 years (though I did not purchase the mower new). For twice the price I don’t think it’s worth buying an engine that will probably outlive the deck. I am reassured that Snapper actually puts the similar Honda GXV160 on the mower I linked above, which has a similar deck
Am I missing anything? Does anyone have any tips or suggestions?
Steve
Excellence!
Local time 3:10 PM User ID 639 Joined Jan 21, 2016 Messages 7,683 Reaction score 40,708 Location Missouri
I need to replace the engine for a Snapper self propelled push mower that’s about 18 years old. The deck is quite similar to the one here and is still in good shape for the most part. It’s actually my favorite deck design that I’ve used for a mower. This is for residential use. Here is a similar mower on the Snapper website. https://www.snapper.com/na/en_us/product-catalog/push-mowers/commercial-walk-mowers.html
Bef0re making the actual purchase I will measure/verify the shaft specs, but by looking up the model number I’ve determined they should be 25mm x 3-5/32″. The old motor is a 12H802-1987-B1. I don’t believe it is worth rebuilding, and there is light scoring in the bore. I believe this is a 6HP motor with 12 cu inches displacement. New motors appear to be substantially smaller on average, and I am concerned about placing an under-powered motor on the deck.
My first choice is probably the Honda GCV160. My only concern is that it is 40cc smaller than the motor it will be replacing. I am aware that it is an aluminum bore consumer motor, but so is the one that lasted for 18 years (though I did not purchase the mower new). For twice the price I don’t think it’s worth buying an engine that will probably outlive the deck. I am reassured that Snapper actually puts the similar Honda GXV160 on the mower I linked above, which has a similar deck
Am I missing anything? Does anyone have any tips or suggestions?
I have had several gcv160 engines. All on 21″ self-propelled units. Always started easy and ran well. Only issues are thr carbs but they are only about 22 bucks. Never felt they where underpowered. If you are worried about that get the gcv190.
Replacement Engines
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