Craftsman push mower spark plug
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Common Reasons Why a Craftsman Push Mower Won’t Start
Dirty Air Filter
One of the most common reasons why a Craftsman push mower won’t start is a dirty air filter. Over time, dust and debris can accumulate on the air filter, restricting the airflow to the engine. This can make it difficult for the engine to start, or cause it to stall once it has started. To diagnose this issue, you should remove the air filter and inspect it for signs of dirt or debris. If it is dirty, you should replace it with a clean one.
Fuel Issues
Another common reason why your Craftsman push mower won’t start is a fuel-related problem. This can range from stale fuel to a clogged fuel line. If you suspect that your mower’s fuel system may be the cause of the problem, you should check the fuel level and quality. If the fuel is stale or contaminated, you should drain it from the tank and replace it with fresh fuel. Additionally, you should inspect the fuel line for signs of clogging or damage.
Spark Plug Problems
A faulty spark plug can also cause your Craftsman push mower to refuse to start. Spark plugs are responsible for igniting the fuel in the engine, and if they are not functioning properly, the engine will not start. To diagnose this issue, you should remove the spark plug and inspect it for signs of wear or damage. If it is worn or damaged, you should replace it with a new one.
Carburetor Issues
The carburetor is responsible for mixing air and fuel in the right ratio to provide the engine with the proper fuel mixture. If the carburetor is dirty or clogged, it can cause the engine to fail to start or run poorly. To diagnose this issue, you should remove the carburetor and inspect it for signs of dirt or debris. If it is dirty, you should clean it or replace it if necessary.
Stale Fuel
Stale fuel can also be a common reason why your Craftsman push mower won’t start. Over time, fuel can deteriorate and become less effective, making it difficult for the engine to start. To avoid this issue, you should always store fuel in an airtight container and use it within a reasonable amount of time. Additionally, you should drain any leftover fuel from the tank at the end of the season to prevent it from becoming stale.
These are some of the most common reasons why your Craftsman push mower may not start. By understanding these issues and following the steps outlined in this article, you can diagnose and fix the problem quickly and easily.
Steps to Diagnose and Fix the Problem
A. Checking the Air Filter The first step in diagnosing the problem with your Craftsman push mower is to check the air filter. To do this, follow these steps:
Tips to Maintain Your Craftsman Push Mower
A. Regular Cleaning To keep your Craftsman push mower running smoothly, it is important to clean it regularly. Here are some tips for cleaning your mower:
- Clean the exterior: Use a damp cloth to wipe down the exterior of the mower to remove any dirt or grass clippings.
- Clean the air filter: As mentioned earlier, it is important to clean or replace the air filter to keep it functioning properly.
- Clean the deck: Use a stiff brush to remove any grass clippings or debris from the deck of the mower.
- Clean the wheels: Use a damp cloth to wipe down the wheels and remove any dirt or debris.
B. Proper Fuel Storage To keep your Craftsman push mower running smoothly, it is important to store the fuel properly. Here are some tips for storing fuel:
- Use fresh fuel: Only use fresh fuel and avoid using stale or contaminated fuel.
- Store fuel properly: Store fuel in a clean, dry container and away from heat sources.
- Add fuel stabilizer: Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel to help prevent it from going stale.
C. Regular Maintenance Checks To keep your Craftsman push mower running smoothly, it is important to perform regular maintenance checks. Here are some tips for performing maintenance checks:
- Check the oil level: Regularly check the oil level and add oil if necessary.
- Check the air filter: Regularly check the air filter and clean or replace it as necessary.
- Check the spark plug: Regularly check the spark plug and replace it if necessary.
- Check the blades: Regularly check the blades and sharpen or replace them if necessary.
D. Keeping the Blades Sharp To keep your Craftsman push mower running smoothly, it is important to keep the blades sharp. Here are some tips for sharpening the blades:
- Remove the blades: To sharpen the blades, remove them from the mower.
- Sharpen the blades: Use a sharpening tool or take the blades to a professional to have them sharpened.
- Balance the blades: After sharpening the blades, make sure to balance them to ensure they run smoothly.
By following these tips, you can ensure that your Craftsman push mower stays in good condition and continues to function properly for years to come.
Some Common Questions – FAQ
What should I do if my Craftsman push mower won’t start?
Answer: If your Craftsman mower won’t start, the first step is to diagnose the problem. Common reasons for this issue include dirty air filters, fuel issues, spark plug problems, carburetor issues, and stale fuel. You can check these items and try to fix the problem yourself, or take the mower to a professional for repair.
What are some common reasons for a push mower not starting?
Answer: Some common reasons for a push mower not starting include dirty air filters, fuel issues, spark plug problems, carburetor issues, and stale fuel. Checking these items is a good place to start when trying to diagnose the problem.
How do I check the air filter on my Craftsman push mower?
Answer: To check the air filter on your Craftsman push mower, locate the air filter cover and remove it. Inspect the air filter and clean or replace it as necessary. If it is dirty or clogged, it may be preventing air from entering the engine and causing it to not start.
What should I do if my spark plug is the cause of my mower not starting?
Answer: If your spark plug is the cause of your mower not starting, you will need to replace it. Make sure to use the correct spark plug for your mower, and consult the owner’s manual for instructions on how to replace it.
What steps should I take to maintain my Craftsman push mower?
Answer: To maintain your Craftsman push mower, you should perform regular cleaning, store fuel properly, perform regular maintenance checks, and keep the blades sharp. These simple steps can help ensure that your mower continues to function properly for years to come.
Conclusion
Recap of Key Points
In this article, we have discussed the topic of a Craftsman push mower that won’t start. We have covered the common reasons why this problem may occur, including dirty air filters, fuel issues, spark plug problems, carburetor issues, and stale fuel.
We also went over the steps to diagnose and fix the problem, including checking the air filter, examining the fuel system, testing the spark plug, cleaning the carburetor, and replacing stale fuel. Finally, we discussed tips for maintaining your Craftsman push mower, including regular cleaning, proper fuel storage, regular maintenance checks, and keeping the blades sharp.
Final Thoughts and Recommendations
If your Craftsman push mower won’t start, it is important to diagnose and fix the problem as soon as possible. By following the steps outlined in this article, you can easily troubleshoot the problem and get your mower up and running again.
Additionally, by following the tips for maintaining your mower, you can ensure that it continues to function properly for years to come. If you are unable to diagnose or fix the problem yourself, it is recommended that you take your mower to a professional for repair.
With a little care and attention, your Craftsman push mower can provide you with years of reliable service.
Spark Application Guide
We carry a large selection of Small Engine Spark Plugs ready to ship direct to your door. If you do not see the Spark Plug you need, please complete the Lawn Mower Parts Request Form and we will be happy to assist you.
| BRIGGS AND STRATTON ENGINES | Champion | NGK | NGK COMMERCIAL | GAP |
| Fource | RDJ7Y | 0.030 | ||
| INTEK SINGLE CYLINDER OHV | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| INTEK V-TWIN OHV | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| OPPOSED TWIN CYL “L” HEAD | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | 0.030 |
| SINGLE CYL “L” HEAD | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | 0.030 |
| 9.0 HP 19A400. 19G400 SERIES | RC14YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| VANGUARD SINGLE CYL OHV | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| VANGUARD V-TWIN OHV | RC14YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| VANGUARD 31 HP LIQUID-COOLED 3-CYLINDER | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| Honda ENGINE | Champion | NGK | NGK COMMERCIAL | GAP |
| G150 | L90C | B5HS | – | 0.030 |
| GV150 SOLID STATE IGNITION | RL87YC or L87YC | BPR6HS | – | 0.030 |
| GV150 MAG IGNITION | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | – | 0.030 |
| GV150 (above ser #2029059 CDI) | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | – | .O3O |
| GV150 (above ser #2029059 Mag) | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.030 |
| GV200 | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | – | 0.030 |
| G200 | L90C | B5HS | – | 0.030 |
| G85, GS65, G80 | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | – | 0.030 |
| G300 | L92YC | BP5HS | – | 0.030 |
| G400 | RL95YC | BPR4HS | – | 0.030 |
| GV400 | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | – | 0.030 |
| GX22, GX25 | Z9Y | C7HSA | – | .O3O |
| GX31, GX35 | Z9Y | C7HSA | – | 0.030 |
| GCV135, GCV160, GCV190, GSV190 | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| GCV530, GXV530 (V-TWIN) | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| GX160 thru GX340 | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| GX360 LIQUID | RL95YC | BPR4HS | – | 0.030 |
| GX390 | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| GX610 (V-TWIN) thru GX670 (V-TWIN) | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| GXV50 thru GXV670 | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| KOHLER ENGINE | Champion | NGK | NGK COMMERCIAL | GAP |
| AEGIS SERIES OHV 17 HP-31.0 HP | RC14YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | .O4O |
| COMMAND PRO CS, OHV 4HP-12HP | RN14YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| COMMAND PRO CS, CS 13 HP | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | 0.030 |
| COMMAND PRO OHV 6HP-28HP | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | .O4O |
| COMMAND OHV 5.0HP. 28HP | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | .O4O |
| COURAGE | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | .O4O |
| K-SERIES K90 thru K181 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | 0.025 |
| K-SERIES K241 thru K361 | RH10C or H10C | B6L | – | 0.030 |
| KT17, KT19, KT21 | RV17YC | UR4 | – | 0.025 |
| K532, K582 | RH10C or H10C | B6L | – | 0.030 |
| K660, K662 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | 0.030 |
| MAGNUM M8 | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| MAGNUM M10 thru M16 | RH10C or H10C | B6L | – | 0.030 |
| MAGNUM MV16, MV18, M18 | RV17YC | UR4 | – | 0.025 |
| MAGNUM MV20, M20 | RV17YC | UR4 | – | 0.025 |
| TRIAD (ALL) | RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | .O4O |
| KAWASAKI ENGINE | Champion | NGK | NGK COMMERCIAL | GAP |
| FE SERIES 3.0HP. 13HP | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| FD501D aft ser 105501 | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.028 |
| FD501D before 105502 | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FH601D | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FD620D, FD620V | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | .O4O |
| FD611D prior to ser 254225 | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FD611D aft ser 254224 | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FH641D | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FD661D | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| EFI (LIQUID V-TWIN) | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FH680D | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FH671D, FD671D (liquid V-Twin) | RN12YC or N12YC | GR4 | – | 0.025 |
| FH711D, FD711D, FH721D (liquid V-Twin) | RN12YC or N12YC | GR4 | – | 0.025 |
| FH750D | RN12YC or N12YC | GR4 | – | 0.025 |
| FH781V, FD791D, FD791D EFI | RN12YC or N12YC | GR4 | – | 0.025 |
| FH841V, FH900V | RN12YC or N12YC | GR4 | – | 0.025 |
| FC150V, FJ180V, FC180V, FC290V | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| FC400V, FC401V | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.030 |
| FH381V | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FC420V | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | .O3O |
| FD440V | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FH430V, FH451V | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | – | 0.025 |
| FD501V (after ser #105533) | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.028 |
| FD501V (before ser #105533) | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FC540V | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FH500V | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | – | .O3O |
| FD590V | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FH531V, FH541V | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | – | 0.025 |
| FD601V, FH601V | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FD611V (before sn 027683) | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | 0.025 |
| FD611V (after sn 027682), FD641V, FH641V | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FD661D, FD680V, FH680V, FD721V, FH721V | RN11YC4 or N11YC | BPR5ES-11 | – | 0.025 |
| FB460V | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | – | 0.025 |
| TECUMSEH ENGINE | Champion | NGK | NGK COMMERCIAL | GAP |
| TCH200 | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | .O3O | |
| TCH300 | RCJ6Y or CJ6Y | BPMR7A | .O3O | |
| HH100, HH12 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | .O3O | |
| HH130, HH140, HH150, HH160 | RL82C or L82C | BR7HS | .O3O | |
| HH40, HH50, HH60, HH70, HH80, HM80 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | .O3O | |
| HM100, HM70, HM80, HM85, HM90 | RJ17LM or J17LM | BR4LM | CS4 | .O3O |
| HMXL70, HT30, HT35, HXL35 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | .O3O | |
| OH120, OH140, OH160 | RL82C or L82C | BR7HS | .O3O | |
| OH180, OH195EA, OH318EA, OHH45, OHH50 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHH55, OHH60, OHH65, OHM110 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHM120 Spec 220000 to 223999 | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | .O3O | |
| OHM120 Spec 224000 UP | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OMH90 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| H22, H25, H30, H35, H40 | RCJ8 or CJ8 | BMR6A | CS2 | .O3O |
| H50, H60, H70, H80 | RJ17LM or J17LM | BR4LM | CS4 | .O3O |
| HSK300 thru HSK850 | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | .O3O | |
| HSK860, HSK870 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| HMSK70 thru HMSK110 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| HS40, HS50 | RJ17LM or J17LM | BR4LM | CS4 | .O3O |
| HSK30 thru HSK70 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| HSSK40, HSSK50 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| LH195SA, LH195SP, LH318SA, LH358SA | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| LH358SA | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| OH195SA, OH195SP | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | – | .O3O |
| OH318SA | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHSK100 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHSK110 Spec #222999 below | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | .O3O | |
| OHSK110 Spec #223000 up | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHSK120 Spec #222999 below | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | .O3O | |
| OHSK120 Spec #223000 up | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHSK125 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHSK130 Spec #222999 below | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | .O3O | |
| OHSK130 Spec #223000 up | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHSK50, OHSK55, OHSK60, OHSK65 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OHSK70, OHSK75, OHSK80, OHSK90 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| TH098SA, TH139SA, TH139SP | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | .O3O | |
| AV520, AV600 | RJ17LM or J17LM | BR4LM | CS4 | .O3O |
| TC200, TC300,TMO49XA | RCJ8Y or CJ8Y | BPMR6A | .O3O | |
| TVO85XA, TVS600, TVS840, TVXL840 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| ECV100 thru ECV120 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| LAV25 thru LAV50 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| LEV80 thru LEV120 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| LV148EA, LV195EA | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| OHV110 thru OHV175 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OV195EA thru OV691EP | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OVM120 | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | .O3O | |
| OVRM40 thru OVRM905 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| OVXL120 OVXL125 Spec #202700 to 202999 | RL86C or L86C | BR6HS | .O3O | |
| OVXL120 OVXL125 Spec #203000 up | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| TNT120, TNT120 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| TVM120 thru TVM170 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| TVM195, TVM120 | RJ17LM or J17LM | BR4LM | CS4 | .O3O |
| TVS75 thru TVS120 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| TVT591 | RN4C or N4C | BR7ES | .O3O | |
| TVXL105, TVXL115 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| TVXL170, TVXL195, TVXL220 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| VH40 thru VH80 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| VKS100 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| VLV40 thru 126 | RJ19LM or J19LM | BR2LM | CS1 | .O3O |
| VM70 thru VM100 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| V40 thru V80 | RJ8C or J8C | BR6S | CS3 | .O3O |
| CROSS REFERENCE BY NUMBER | Champion | NGK | NGK COMMERCIAL | GAP |
| CJ14 | BM4A | CS5 | ||
| CJ8 | BM6A | CS2 | ||
| J17LM | B4LM | CS4 | ||
| J19LM | B2LM | CS1 | ||
| J8C | B6S | CS3 | ||
| L90C | B5HS | |||
| L92YC | BP5HS | |||
| RC12YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | ||
| RC14YC | BKR5ES | CS6 | ||
| RCJ6Y | BPMR7A | |||
| RCJ8 | BMR6A | |||
| RCJ8Y | BPMR6A | |||
| RH10C | B6L | |||
| RJ17LM | BR4LM | |||
| RJ19LM | BR2LM | |||
| RJ8C | BR6S | |||
| RL82C | BR7HS | |||
| RL86C | BR6HS | |||
| RL87YC | BPR6HS | |||
| RL95YC | BPR4HS | |||
| RN11YC4 | BPR5ES-11 | |||
| RN12YC | GR4 | |||
| RN4C | BR7ES | |||
| RV17YC | UR4 | |||
| Z9Y | C7HSA |
What Spark Plug to Use for a Lawnmower?
The spark plug is a vital component of gasoline engines where it ignites the compressed air-fuel mixture in the combustion stroke to create a blast for the release of energy. Like automobile gasoline engines, a lawn mower’s gasoline engine needs a spark plug to ignition the air-fuel mixture. All spark plugs essentially have the same basic working principle. However, it is important to note that all gasoline engines need spark plugs, but they don’t need the same kind of spark plug. A spark plug type is characterized by various features such as thread length, thread pitch, and the gap between the two electrodes, etc. So, if you are in some lawn mowing mood on a lovely sunny morning and don’t want to end up just cranking the engine again and again, choose the right kind of spark plug for your lawnmower engine. We don’t want the wrong spark plug choice to destroy your mowing mood.
What Spark Plug to Use for a Lawnmower:
Use a “small engine” Spark Plug as most car engine spark plugs have a larger thread. Ensure that it has the right thread size (usually, 10 to 12mm) and the correct thread length (usually, 3/8 inch). Also, set the proper gap that matches the engine’s gap requirement. Check your Lawn Mower manual for the correct dimensions.
A detailed description of these features will help you understand their significance and how the wrong choice could harm your plug or engine, or both.
Spark Plug Components:
Interchangeability between a lawn mower spark plug and an automobile spark plug is not completely impossible, but generally, the two applications require spark plugs with different physical features. Some spark plugs are “hotter,” some are “colder,” some are “longer,” and some are “shorter.” What do all these nicknames mean, and what are they based on? Let’s have a detailed look at a spark plug’s physical features.
Spark plug components and features are not something all laymen know. But having a basic knowledge of them is not too difficult. A spark plug has four basic components:
- A metal casing or shell that is threaded.
- A central or live electrode: usually contains a resistor and is connected to the ignition coil’s output terminal by a heavily insulated wire.
- An insulator: to electrically isolate the outer shell from the central electrode. It prevents the escape of high voltages from the electrodes.
- An outer or ground electrode: It is also sometimes referred to as the side electrode.
In addition to these four basic components, spark plugs have other components, too, such as a ring, packing washer, center shaft, glass seal and gasket, etc., that make its working smooth.
The choice of lawn mower spark plug should be based on these features’ specifications since certain specifications will best meet your lawn mower engine’s requirements while others won’t.
Spark Plug Size:
Size is an important specification that must be considered when choosing a spark plug for your lawnmower engine. Size is one of the few parameters that makes a lawn mower spark plug different from an automobile engine.
For the threads to fit together, the thread sizes must be similar. If the threads don’t have similar sizes, they just won’t fit. If you try to fit together threads of different sizes by applying force, you’ll damage the spark plug or the engine or both. It is highly inappropriate to mate threads of different sizes forcefully for your engine’s health and spark plug. After all, we all want to keep our machines in order, working, and healthy.
Lawnmower engines usually use smaller thread sizes as compared to automobile engines. Most automobile engines use spark plugs with a thread size of about 14mm, whereas most lawn mower engines use spark plugs with a thread size of about 10 to 12mm. Because the size specifications are different, the two spark plug types can’t be interchanged. They won’t fit in the same unit.
So, next time you go shopping for a spark plug for your lawnmower, keep in mind the spark plug size. You can check the spark plug size of your lawnmower engine from the user manual, or you can go on the internet to get spark plug size info from the model number of your lawnmower engine.
Spark Plug Thread Length:
The second important specification that differentiates between an automobile engine and a lawnmower engine is the thread length.
Here again, lawn mower spark plugs usually have smaller thread lengths as compared to auto engines. Threads on automobile plugs are usually between 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch long. On the other hand, lawnmower engines usually use spark plugs whose threads are only 3/8 inch long.
What happens when you don’t use the right thread length?
Many engines use a tapered spark plug that fits with a tapered hole in the cylinder head. The mating of the two features seals the cylinder. If the right thread length is not used, the components would not fit together, and the lawnmower cylinder won’t be sealed. The use of the wrong thread length will impair the lawnmower engine’s starting or damage the engine or do both.
So, the spark plug thread length is another consideration to be kept in mind while choosing one for your lawnmower engine. Remember the golden rule: Right plug for the right application!
Spark Plug Gap:
As mentioned earlier, a spark plug has two electrodes. There is a live electrode in the center and a ground electrode on the side. Spark is generated at the live electrode, and it travels to the ground electrode across a gap between the two electrodes. The spark plug gap is something that can be changed. If your engine has a problem starting, check if the spark plug gap is right. If it’s not, you can adjust it to match the spark plug packaging or engine manual’s gap specification.
The spark plug gap can change during shipping or handling or if the plug falls on the floor or if the anode gets thinner. So, always check the gap before installing a spark plug.
Why does the spark plug gap have to be right?
Depending on the type of engine your lawnmower uses, the gap between the two electrodes must be set to a specific width. If the gap between the live and ground electrodes is too small, there is not enough space for the spark to be generated with enough power to ignite the cylinder’s air-fuel mixture. On the other hand, if the gap is too wide, the spark generated at the live electrode won’t travel to the ground electrode, and there will be no ignition.
You can use a feeler gauge to measure the gap on your spark plug and compare it to the gap requirement. The feeler gauge has many stripes of different thicknesses. Adjust the gap width to the required specification and check if the stripe with that thickness passes through the gap without any clearance. If it does, your plug is good to go, and so are you!
Other Specifications to be Considered:
Some spark plugs have their center electrodes operating at a higher mean temperature than the other spark plugs. Such spark plugs are called “hotter spark plugs.” Similarly, there are “colder spark plugs,” too.
Furthermore, some spark plugs extend further into the combustion chamber as compared to others. Such plugs are called “longer.” Similarly, there are shorter “plugs,” too.
Such features affect the starting and working of an engine and must be optimized based on its specifications. If the spark plug you are using in your lawnmower engine does not have the right features, it will cause problems and cause some symptoms to emerge that will indicate the problem.
Using a too hot plug for your engine may cause pre-ignition, while a too cold plug might result in your engine’s poor ability to run at any speed.
If the plug is too long, the piston will touch the plug, and both will be damaged, while if the plug is too short, the spark is not created in the right location in the cylinder, resulting in poor running characteristics.
Taking care of the basic specifications can help you avoid such problems. Just make sure that the size, thread length, and gap, etc., match your lawn mower engine’s requirements based on the specifications provided by the manufacturer.
Your Guide to Buying the Right Spark Plug for your Lawn Mower:
You already know about the basic components of a spark plug. You can check their required specifications from the user manual or can get them from the internet. But where do you buy a spark plug from?
Spark plugs are a vital engine component and are therefore very popular. You can easily find them in engine spare parts stores. If you know of a store that sells lawnmowers, they will surely have the spare parts.
Or you can buy online from popular online shopping websites and have the right spark plug delivered to your doorstep. Make sure to buy from a credible website and a seller with a positive customer rating. Don’t forget to go through the customer reviews to be sure.
All you need before going shopping is the required specifications. You can either use the old spark plug as a reference for them or using the user manual.
Related Questions:
Can I use a car spark plug in my lawnmower?
Automobile and lawnmower spark plugs are interchangeable in some cases, but not always. The two types usually have different thread sizes, thread lengths, and gaps, etc. So, use a plug for your mower whose specifications match the ones mentioned in the manual.
Can I change the gap on my spark plug myself?
Yes. It’s quite simple. Use a feeler gauge to check the thickness and adjust it till it matches the requirement.