How to assemble Makita BDF456 DDF456 18v li ion cordless drill switch carbon brushes replace
Before you start changing the drill or working with the tool, you need to make sure it is working properly. For this, insert the plug into the outlet, and put the punch in the drilling mode without a fight (left extreme position). After that, the start button is pressed. If you hear a smooth sound, free from glitches and jerks, you can start working.
Be sure to check walls or other surfaces for water supply or electrical wiring before starting work. The handle must be securely fixed and not dangle during operation. A timely check or inspection will help to avoid injury and damage to the device..
Please note: never touch the rotating parts of the tool, otherwise it could be fatal. For the same reason, it is only necessary to install the drill chuck and drill for the bosh hammer drill with the plug unplugged..
Rotary hammer operation
How long the puncher will serve depends on compliance with all the rules of its operation. When working with materials such as concrete, you should not save money on tool lubrication. If the tool breaks down, it must be returned to a service center. Even if it is not damaged, from time to time it is worth taking it to the masters for checking.
Please note that some malfunctions provoke injury, this is especially true for powerful hammer drills with a strong impact. If the drill in the hammer drill is jammed badly, or you are not completely confident in your abilities, it is also better to seek help from qualified specialists.!
You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove construction dust from the tool. When using a punch, it is worth remembering about the rest mode, the device tends to heat up even at low speeds. Follow the instructions supplied with the device..
Considering all of the above, we can draw certain conclusions that self-insertion of the drill into the hammer drill is a very simple procedure. Also remember that by law the hammer drill can only be used after seven in the morning and before eleven in the evening. Try to carry out repair processes on weekdays from nine in the morning and finish them before seven in the evening..
With the advent of reinforced concrete structures, no internal or external repair is complete without a hammer drill. On the market, the range of such devices is represented by a wide variety. However, the basic mechanisms work in about the same way. This statement is true primarily for the drill resetting process..
After the above steps, you can insert the Makita Rotary Hammer Drill into the chuck. Then, by rotating the upper part of the chuck clockwise until it stops, it is necessary to clamp the drill. After that, be sure to check if it is firmly fixed.
If you find the drill is loose, try tightening the chuck a little. After the final fixing and following all the actions, you can turn on the puncher in the network. Press the trigger several times so that the grease can disperse well into the parts.
If the drill gets stuck
There are times when the working tool gets stuck in the chuck and does not want to be pulled out. Here you need to know the following. In order to gently pull out the bit, it is necessary to clamp its free part in a vice and knock on the chuck jaws with a hammer through a wooden guide until the drill tail comes out of the keyless chuck. If the drill is stuck in the hammer drill firmly, and this does not help, you can remove the chuck and put it in gasoline, and drop some automotive oil into the key chuck..
Also, there are often situations where the drill gets stuck in the wall during construction concrete work. This occurs during clamping between concrete and reinforcement. Stop pulling the trigger and wobbling the hammer drill as it may break. First, remove the drill from the chuck, replace it, and begin gently punching out the concrete around the stuck drill. Avoid hitting a jammed drill. After this procedure, the stuck drill can be removed without difficulty..
Beginning of work
Before starting work, you need to make sure which mode the tool is in. It should be idling for one minute. Be sure to check the operation of the gearbox so that vibrations, unnecessary noises or sounds do not come from it. Also, there should be no smoke or smell resembling burning insulation..
For drilling, you need to install the drill in the place where the hole will be made and only then press the power button. When working with a hammer drill, do not press too hard on the surface. Modern rock drills have an on / off feature. This property of the tool is able to provide the main work with a decrease in speed. Thanks to this mode, the hole will be made in a precisely defined place and the drill will not go to the side..
When drilling metal or wood, do not turn on the hammer mode, this may damage the device. There are rock drills that have an automatic shutdown mechanism when the wrong option is selected. During construction work, the impact mode can be used for drilling concrete. To free the hole from dust, it is necessary to periodically remove part of the drill and return it to its place..
How to insert a drill into a Makita hammer drill
How to replace the drill bit in a Makita drill? The question is simple, but it requires due attention, because if the drill is not properly fixed, then problems may arise: a broken or uneven hole, the probability of the drill falling out of the tool causing injury, as well as other troubles. First, let’s look at how to insert a drill into a drill..
For correct operation, the drill must be secured to the chuck of the electric drill with a shank. Most drills are equipped with a jaw chuck. These parts have a cylindrical body. A ring or a sleeve rotates along their surface, and cams are placed inside the cylinder, which, when the ring rotates clockwise, approach each other, compressing the drill. Counterclockwise rotation moves the cams apart, thereby relaxing the drill press. This allows it to be replaced or removed. It is necessary to relax the cams with some margin so that it is easy to insert the drill. The principle of operation of the cams makes it possible to mount drills of any diameter. Ordinary household drills are produced with a standard gap of the drill diameter – 0.8-10 millimeters, some models may have an interval of 1.5-13 millimeters.
There are two types of clamping: quick-release and key. In the first option, the rotation of the sleeve occurs manually. In electric drills with such a clamp, blocking elements are often used to limit the pulling force. In the second variant, the adjusting sleeve moves due to the presence of a key. There is a hole on the side of the chuck where you can insert a key with teeth. Sometimes there are several such holes (up to three), each of them must be loosened by turning the key counterclockwise once or twice. Then they begin counterclockwise rotation of the chuck, thereby increasing the diameter of the hole for the nozzle. Now insert the drill and clamp first the chuck and then the nests.
To change the drill, you must first pull it out. Let’s take a look at how to remove the drill bit from the drill. This process is quite simple, but you should be careful, as you can damage the drill itself or the cartridge.
The procedure is as follows:
- You must turn off the equipment first.
- The drill must be carefully removed from the chuck using special keys. Pay attention to which cartridge is installed. If it is key, the key itself must be installed in the hole intended for it. Then the key is turned counterclockwise until the clamps disperse. Further, the drill can be easily pulled out, and a new one can be installed in its place..
- If a keyless chuck is used, then you need to rotate the sleeve with the keys until the drill comes out (this requires effort, the drill must be held in hand). Hit the cartridge with a casual palm. If the drill is not tightly clamped, then it can be easily removed after such a movement..
If the drill is jammed, use force to remove the drill. This must be done carefully, otherwise the instrument may be damaged. The work is done as follows:
- The equipment must be turned off first..
- Then you need to gently tap the chuck with a hammer so as not to damage it. Place a plate between the hammer and the chuck.
- Tap the chuck until the drill shank comes out..
If an electric drill works only with metal chucks, then two gas keys are required to pull out the jammed drill. They are needed to clamp the sleeve, then the chuck must be rotated counterclockwise. This method can also be used for a plastic cartridge, but there is a risk of damage. If none of the methods helps, it is worth removing the cartridge from the equipment..
The blade of the drill may remain in the material that has been cut. You can tell if the drill is stuck by the characteristic sound. In such a situation, you must immediately turn off the tool, and then unclench the chuck..
The drill may not come out. In this case, take a new chuck and then gently break off a small area near the stuck element with a drill. The “damaged” equipment is removed quite easily, for this it needs to be slightly rocked. If none of the measures helps, then contact the service center. Do not exert great effort, as the equipment may break..
Replacing a drill bit on a Makita drill is not so difficult, even if it gets jammed during operation, you just need to choose the right models and cartridges. It is enough to do this work once in order to do it later without errors..
The opinion of the authors of the articles may not coincide with the position of the editorial board..
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The hammer drill is one of the most popular tools today, so its usefulness cannot be underestimated. The tool is used by both experienced professionals and ordinary amateurs. In many situations, it would be difficult without this device. In this article, we look at how to insert a drill into the hammer drill so as not to damage it. Mastering the ability to competently use the tool will help bring your work to perfection. To insert the drill into the tool, you need a hammer drill, drill bit, chuck and lubricant..
Rotary hammer equipment
To work with this tool, you need a variety of accessories – drills, concrete drills for a hammer drill, chisels, blades and crowns. Drills and crowns are used when drilling holes, drills are used for concrete and stone, chisels are used for slotting work, and blades are needed to knock down plaster or old tiles. All rock drill bits are shaped like a shank, thanks to which a quick and reliable fixation in the chuck is carried out.
The perforator can also be used with special angle attachments, a dust removal system, agitators for stirring mortars or paints, chisels and various types of attachments (drill sharpening, water pump, attachment for cutting metal in sheets). Before starting any work with the rotary hammer, make sure that it is properly equipped and suitable for the future work. A tool that is too small may not handle a heavy load.
How to insert a drill into a hammer drill: professional advice
Having a puncher for personal use, you can easily make repairs to your apartment, your own house or cottage. We need to learn how to disassemble the makita puncher, if someone bought it. Then you don’t have to go to a specialized workshop..
- perforator, drill-perforator
- hex key
Take a drill and insert it into the drill chuck. The upper part of the chuck is turned clockwise as far as it will go. Check the drill for backlash. If the drill is not sufficiently secured, the upper part of the chuck is tightened tighter. At the end, turn on the drill and give it a load at idle, which gives the lubricant the opportunity to reach every part. This is the standard solution to the question of how to insert the drill into the hammer drill in a reliable way..
Hammer drills manufactured by makita are not only hardy and practical to work with, but they can be quickly opened when the need arises. Four screws are unscrewed with one hexagon and the plastic case is removed. It is so convenient and easy that there is no question of how to disassemble the makita hammer drill in cases of repairing and cleaning its electric motor. Also quickly assembled, as disassembled, only in the reverse order.
In principle, you can get to the perforator gearbox by performing several dismantling operations. First, remove the cartridge, then remove the mechanism of the switch for drilling and chiselling modes. And it’s the turn of the screws, which are unscrewed with a hexagon. Thanks to them, the motor housing and the gearbox are pulled together. As you can see, the task is not at all difficult, how to disassemble the Makita 2450 hammer drill.
If we are talking about a hammer drill, which promises to work for a long time and reliably, then the choice should fall not on a drill, sublimated with a hammer drill, but simply on a separate wall-piercing tool. As a rule, such a hammer drill has a special adapter in the kit, which allows you to work with a hammer drill and like a regular drill. This is practically one of the main tips on how to choose the right hammer drill for your home..
To disassemble the punch chuck, you must open it as much as possible. There is a screw that is unscrewed in the right direction (has a left-hand thread). It happens that the screw does not come out, so carefully tap it with a hammer or blunt chisel and try to get it out again. Otherwise, how to disassemble the punch cartridge will fail. After removing the screw, the chuck will separate into its component parts..
How to insert a drill
Next: Drilling process
Mounting of drills, reamers, countersinks and countersinks on drilling machines, depending on the shape of the shank, is carried out in three ways: directly in the tapered hole of the spindle, in adapter tapered bushings, in a drill chuck.
Tool holder directly in the tapered bore of the spindle. Tapered shanks of drills, reamers, countersinks, etc., as well as tapered holes in the spindles of drilling and other machines are made according to the Morse system. Morse cones are numbered 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; each number corresponds to a specific cone size. The numbers of the adapter sleeves are selected according to the size of the cones of the cutting tools. In the taper bore of the spindle, the taper shank is held in place by the frictional force between the tapered surfaces. The ponytail foot fits into the spindle groove and protects the shank from turning.
Fastening of the tool through adapter tapered bushings is carried out in cases where the taper of the tool shank is less than the taper of the spindle bore. Transitional tapered bushings (Fig. 220, b) are short and long. In fig. 220, c shows fastening of the tool using an adapter sleeve. A bushing with a drill is inserted into the hole of the machine spindle.
Innovators Yu. M. Orlov and Yu. V. Kozlovsky proposed and manufactured transition sleeves from spring wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm (Fig. 220, d). The wire is wound on a special mandrel, then the outer surface is ground on a circular grinding machine. From the upper side, a plug is inserted into the sleeve, which serves to punch out the tool. The spring bushing is lighter and cheaper to manufacture than standard bushings. It does not rotate, which protects against scuffing. The sleeve is used on drilling and turning machines.
Removing the tool from the tapered hole of the machine spindle is carried out using a wedge (Fig. 2, a) through the slot. In fig. 2, b shows a safe wedge with a spring used without a hammer.
The wedge for removing drills or adapter sleeves from the spindle of the drilling machine of innovator B. M. Gusev consists of a massive hollow handle, inside which there is a movable firing pin with a wedge, spring-loaded.
To remove the drill or adapter sleeve from the spindle, the wedge of the device is inserted into the groove of the spindle, and the handle is sharply moved. In this case, the spring is compressed and the bottom of the handle hits the wedge striker.
The force required to compress the spring is negligible, since it is only intended to move the handle back to its original position.
Fastening drills in chucks. Drills with a cylindrical shank are mounted in drill chucks, the main types of which are shown below..
In fig. 3 shows a three-jaw drill chuck in which the tools are held in place with a key. Inside the chuck body (Fig. 3) there are three oblique cams with threads connecting them to the nut. The holder rotates with a special key inserted into the hole in the cartridge body. When the cage rotates clockwise, the nut also rotates. The clamping jaws, going down, gradually converge and clamp the cylindrical shank of the drill or other tool. When the cage is rotated in the opposite direction, the cams, rising up, diverge and release the clamped tool.
In fig. 4, a, b shows a three-jaw self-centering chuck for fixing drills with a diameter of 2 to 12 mm with a tapered shank. A bushing with an external thread is screwed onto the threaded part of the shank, onto which the chuck body having an internal cone is screwed. When the body is turned clockwise, there are three cams pressed against it by springs. converge and clamp the drill.
Three-jaw chuck with tilting jaws provides more accurate and stable drill clamping. The cage is firmly mounted on a nut, on the inner cone of which there is a thread, and on the end there are bevel teeth. In the grooves of the chuck body there are three obliquely disposed cams; on their outer sides, a thread is also cut, which is connected to the thread of the nut. When the cage is turned with a special wrench that has tapered teeth at the end and is inserted into the hole, the cams converge or diverge, clamping or releasing the drill.
Plants produce three standard sizes of chucks with inclined cams: PS-6, PS-9, PS-15 (the number in the brand indicates the largest diameter of the drill clamped by the chuck).
The collet is used to clamp small diameter drills with a cylindrical shank in drilling machines. Collet chucks provide reliable, accurate tool clamping. The body of the collet chuck has a shank for fixing the machine spindle in the cone and a threaded part, onto which a nut 6 is screwed, having flats for a wrench on the side. The collet is mounted on the cone. When screwing the nut onto the threaded part of the collet, it compresses and fixes the drill shank.
Quick change cartridges. When machining parts in which drilling, countersinking, reaming, threading, etc. must be performed sequentially, the cutting tool has to be changed frequently, which takes a lot of time. To reduce the time for changing tools, quick-change chucks are used. Known quick-change cartridges with leading balls and leader. In fig. 226, 6 shows a quick-change chuck with leading balls used for light work. It is structurally simple and allows tool change without stopping the machine spindle. The chuck body is fixed with a shank in the machine spindle. In the cylindrical bore of the body there is a replaceable sleeve with a tool seat. The rotary movement from the cartridge body to the sleeve is transmitted by two balls located in the transverse seats of the body. To replace the sleeve with the cutting tool, the rotation of the cage is suspended by taking it by the corrugated surface, and the cage is raised up to the stop in the spring ring embedded in the groove of the body. Downward movement of the cage is limited by the second spring washer.
Using a vise
In cases where the drill is heavily jammed, the use of a vise can be recommended. To extract it, you need to carry out the following operations:
Another way to remove the drill from the drill is to use a vise..
- A jammed drill is firmly clamped in a vice, so that the drill itself is parallel to the table.
- Lightly tap with a small hammer over the entire surface of the chuck.
- Then light but sharp blows are made with a hammer on the sleeve vertically along a tangent to its surface.
- If the movement has begun, then the blows should be continued until the drill shank appears from the end.
- If there is no movement, then the blows should be intensified. In this case, care must be taken not to damage the surface..
The efficiency of the method can be increased by using a gas wrench. It can be used only in the case of a metal cartridge – it is simply not possible to clamp the plastic cartridge securely. The sleeve is firmly clamped with a gas wrench. By turning the gas wrench counterclockwise, the sleeve rotates relative to the drill fixed in the vice.
The effect can be further enhanced by using two gas keys. In this case, the drill shaft or a fixed sleeve (in the case of a cartridge with two sleeves) is fixed with the second gas wrench. Counterclockwise rotation is performed with a gas wrench attached to the cartridge adjusting sleeve; while the second key must be stationary. Thus, the rotation of the sleeve relative to the drill and drill must be ensured at the same time..
Reasons for Difficulty Removing the Drill
Drill types: a – centerless spiral; b – spiral with a center and cutters; c – spiral with a screw center; g – first center; d – center; e – gimbal; g – countersink; h – groove; and – cork.
In the process of working with a drill, sometimes difficulties arise when replacing a drill associated with removing a previously used drill from a chuck. This problem can be of varying degrees of complexity, depending on the cause of the occurrence. The simplest and most common reason is the application of excessive force when clamping the drill, in the absence of restrictive mechanisms in the chuck design. This phenomenon most often occurs when using a percussion method of impact to tighten the drill in the final stage, for example, the use of a mallet. Drill jamming can also occur if it is forcefully tightened when it is incorrectly placed in the space between the jaws. This is typical when using a small diameter drill..
A more complex tool jamming mechanism can occur when using a low-quality drill. So, if it is made of a soft material, then when it rotates, metal shavings can occur, removed from the surface, which clogs the gap between the cams and the drill, as well as between the cams. This can make it difficult to open the jaws when trying to loosen the drill. Difficulties in removal can arise if the drill has sunk too deep into the chuck during operation. The task becomes more difficult if the drill, in addition to such jamming, also breaks at the level of the upper end of the chuck..
The breakdown of the drill in the drill chuck can be caused by a violation of the drilling mode..
The reason for the destruction, in addition to the use of low-quality material, can be a violation of the drilling mode: an unexpected tilt of the drill, excessive vertical load, an attempt to drill a heavy-duty material, etc..
Finally, the reason that the drill cannot be removed is a jamming of the cartridge itself. Several possible reasons should be highlighted. The first reason, not related to the failure of the cartridge, is explained by the ingress of foreign particles that impede movement into the area of the threaded connection of the regulating element and the body. Such particles can be dirt, metal dust or small chips, etc. In this case, it is not possible to ensure the rotation of the adjusting sleeve or key..
The reason for the fact that you cannot get the drill can be the failure of the chuck. This can be caused by both the presence of a factory defect and temporary wear of the cams or the regulating element. The reason may be the failure of the spring blocking mechanism, which does not release the regulating element when the button is pressed..
Mounting a drill in a drill
Drill device diagram.
To install the chuck on the drill shaft, a hole is made in its lower part along the shaft diameter. Fastening can be due to a threaded connection or holes with a taper and a tight fit of the chuck on the shaft having a reverse taper.
The drill is inserted in the center into the space between the cams. When the cams converge (clockwise rotation of the adjusting element), the drill is fixed in the chuck, and when the cams diverge, on the contrary, it is released. To ensure a secure fit, it is necessary to apply significant forces when rotating the adjusting element..
According to the method of fixing the drill, the chucks are divided into ordinary (key) and quick-clamping. In the key, the adjusting ring is moved and tightened using a special key. When the key is turned clockwise, the drill is secured in the chuck. An adjusting sleeve is installed in the quick-clamping sleeve, the surface of which is corrugated for ease of rotation by hand. By manually rotating the sleeve clockwise, the drill is fixed in the chuck.
Keyless chucks come in two types: one-liner and two-liner. If the design provides only one sleeve, then it rotates relative to the drill body, which must be fixed motionless during installation. When using two sleeves, one of them is movable, adjusting, and the other is fixed. The adjustment sleeve is rotated relative to the second sleeve, which must be fixed when installing the drill. In the design of the chuck, to limit the tightening force, additional elements can be used in the form of a ratchet (located inside) or a locking spring mechanism with a button (the button goes into a special socket outside).
Easy drill removal
In order to remove the drill from the chuck, it is necessary to turn the adjusting sleeve.
In the usual mode, the issue of extraction is very easy to solve. By rotating the adjusting sleeve or wrench counterclockwise, the cams are opened, after which the drill is removed. In the presence of a locking mechanism, rotation begins with pressing the locking button. When the regulating element rotates, the drill body (cartridge with one sleeve) or a fixed sleeve (cartridge with two sleeves) is fixed by hand..
If it is not possible to turn the sleeve or the key immediately, then it is necessary to try to increase the load or create an enhanced initial load impulse. The first attempt is to set the movement with a sharp jerk of the right hand, while ensuring the fixation of the drill with the left hand. The next attempt is a light blow with the hand on the key vertically or a blow with the palm of the hand on the sleeve in a tangential direction to the surface of the sleeve. If the manual method of influence did not help to pull out the drill, then you should resort to using a mallet or a light hammer (preferably a rubber one). Strikes are made with this tool on the key or sleeve. The force of the blow increases as needed. To increase the force effect, it is advisable to introduce a lubricant (oil) into the area of the cams before impacts.
Drill chuck design
Drill chuck design.
In all types of drills, the drill is installed in a special chuck. With this tool, the drill is attached to a rotating shaft, and the rotary motion required for drilling is transmitted to it. In this type of drill, such as a hammer drill, it also provides a translational (impact) movement of the drill. Almost all drills use cam-type mechanisms.
The chuck consists of a hollow cylinder-shaped body along which an adjusting sleeve or ring moves. Cams with a conical cut are installed inside the body, which move along guides that provide translational movement of the cams when the adjusting element rotates. Due to the taper, the cams evenly converge relative to each other when moving upward or evenly diverge when moving downward.
How to remove a jammed drill from a drill?
The house has such a necessary tool as a drill..
The drill is used for drilling various types of materials, therefore it is necessary to change drills very often.
The first holes have been drilled and the drill needs to be changed. How to pull out a drill from a drill with your own hands correctly?
Removing the chuck due to a jammed drill
If the drill is jammed due to the fault of the chuck, then it must be removed from the drill shaft. There are two types of fastening of the element on the drill shaft: threaded and tapered. When threaded, the element is fixed in a vice, and the drill rotates counterclockwise relative to it. If there is a locking screw, it can be unscrewed with a screwdriver or a gas wrench.
With a conical mount, the chuck is installed on the shaft “in an interference fit”.
It can be removed by lightly tapping a hammer on the bottom end..
Before this, the locking screw is loosened..
After removing it from the drill shaft, you can make one last attempt to pull out the drill. To do this, all internal elements (cams), together with the drill, are knocked out of the body by light blows on the upper ends of the cams..
The tool you need to pull out the drill:
- gas key;
- rubber hammer.
A jammed drill inside the drill can be difficult to remove. However, a little effort and knowledge of the cartridge design will help to cope with this problem..
How to change a drill bit in a drill – proven methods!
What repairs would cost without a good drill and a set of drills! However, even the most reliable tool can jam during operation. Don’t rush to panic! We will teach you how to change a drill in a drill and correctly diagnose other breakdowns.
How to change a drill bit in a drill – we do it on our own!
It is far from always possible to get the drill out of the chuck in the usual way – as a result of a strong load or improper fixation, it can jam the chuck. How to get the drill out of the drill without damaging the fasteners and tools? First of all, try to cool the cartridge well. Sometimes this is already enough for the cams to release the drill a little, and you can pull it out..
The most proven method for removing a jammed tool is to tap the cams. To do this, the free end of the drill is fixed in a vice, a wooden bar is applied to the chuck, through which tapping is carried out. This vibration can cause the chuck to loosen its grip and free the tool. This method is useful both for owners of classic fasteners and for owners of quick-release fasteners. Extraction is sometimes possible after lubricating the drill with machine oil or the popular WD-40 grease..
The latter method is better, because the sprayer will quickly reach the desired points of contact between the drill and the chuck. In any case, after lubrication, you will need to wait a little for the substance to penetrate deeper. Sometimes, in especially difficult cases, the problem is solved only after dipping the entire cartridge in machine oil or vegetable oil. If neither one nor the other is at hand, you can make a “bath” of your drill and gasoline. Keep the cartridge in the liquid for at least an hour. Combining methods will remove a jammed drill even faster..
Drill device – what you need to know about the tool?
A drill jammed in a drill or screwdriver chuck has occurred at least once with every tool owner. To understand why this can happen, you need to understand how the drill works. This tool converts electrical energy into mechanical energy, which is possible thanks to an electric motor that rotates the shaft. Through the gearbox and gears, rotation is transmitted to the fasteners, in which the drill is fixed.
Makita DHP480 Cordless Hammer Drill Driver – ITS TV
Now let’s look at the operation of an electric drill from the back side, provided that the drill was not secured correctly or not firmly enough. Vibrations that occur during operation will lead to deviations in the direction of drilling, resulting in a curved hole. Vibrations from vibration will be transmitted to the gears and the gearbox, they will hook the shaft and the engine itself – this does not immediately threaten to breakdown, however, a decrease in the service life of the tool is guaranteed! Often, carelessness in securing the drill leads to its jamming. Sometimes jamming occurs as a result of the drill slipping off the drilling point – to avoid this, use a spring center punch to make indentations in the surface for the drill.
In addition to jamming, a loosely fixed drill can jump out of the fastener, and this is already fraught with severe enough injuries for the person working with the tool and others, given the speed of revolutions of modern devices. Therefore, never fasten the drill in a hurry, always disconnect the drill for this from the current in order to avoid accidentally starting the drill..
Mounting device – non-combat cartridge
The chuck is the fastener in which the drill is fixed. The fasteners themselves are screwed onto the tool spindle. Most often, drills are equipped with a jaw chuck. This design is a hollow cylinder with metal “fingers” inside. When turning the adjusting ring, which is located outside the assembly, the “fingers” converge or diverge along the inner cone-shaped surface. In such a “fist” you can clamp both a drill with a cylindrical shank and a hexagon.
Convenience and ease of use have made the cam mechanism popular. However, it is not without its drawbacks. One of them is the difficulty in working with small drills. A short piece can simply fall inward. You can still fix it by putting the drill in a horizontal position, but you cannot press on it hard during work. If another drill has been inserted into the drill, you can remove it by turning the adjusting ring in the appropriate direction. It is not always possible to do this manually, for this there is a special key that acts like a lever, increasing the effort. By the way, tightening the drill without a key is also not recommended – the larger the drill diameter, the more reliable the fastening should be.
When buying fasteners, make sure that it is rubberized – so you will less injure your hands when fastening the tool.
Keyless fasteners, the second most popular, can be operated without a key. It is enough to insert the drill and turn the lever, often this can be done with one hand. The fixation of the drill, which this type of chuck provides, is quite enough for most jobs, however, compared to the classic version of the fastening, it is inferior in reliability, and it is more expensive. The main advantage of the quick-release fastening is the speed of changing the drill and the safety of the process, since such a chuck is devoid of teeth that can injure hands. The absence of a specialized key is also a significant advantage! Seasoned builders know how easily it is lost, so very often you can see the key tied with tape or electrical tape to the wire..
True, this does not add convenience, but there is at least some confidence that the key will not have to be looked for throughout the construction site. How to change a drill in a screwdriver? The scheme is absolutely identical – the cartridges for most drills are similar to fasteners on screwdrivers. Of course, the last tool cannot be a full-fledged replacement for a high-quality drill, if only because the fasteners are not provided for drills with a large diameter, and the speed of a screwdriver is usually less.
How to replace the chuck – update the drill
Most often, it is the cartridge that comes into disrepair first in the drill. Dismantling it at home is not easy, but possible! The fasteners are screwed onto the spindle itself, but in addition it is also secured with a left-hand threaded bolt. In order to get it, you need to completely unclench the cartridge – it is inside. The whole difficulty of unscrewing it lies in the fact that many do not know about the left-hand thread, and trying to unscrew it, twist it even more, tear off the hat and eventually bring it to the service.
By unscrewing the bolt, you can unscrew the cartridge itself, however, and this is not so easy to do. In some models, there are notches for a wrench at the base of the thread – in this case, you can fix the spindle and unscrew the fasteners using a lot of effort. The real difficulty arises when there are no wrench cuts. You will have to remove the housing cover to fix the spindle inside the drill. Difficult but doable.
Removing a cartridge is one thing. Finding a new one is completely different. In addition to the clamping methods described above, different chucks also have different threads! The surest way not to confuse anything is to take an old cartridge with you and demonstrate it to the seller, or how to choose the right one according to the layout. When you have coped with this task, all that remains for you is to screw the chuck onto the spindle and tighten the bolt, which in our case is twisted counterclockwise.
How to remove a drill bit from a drill?
If you need to change a drill that has become unusable, or due to a change in the nature of the work, you need to put another one, then the process is even simpler than when setting the drill.
In this case, there is also a step-by-step instruction..
- Turn off and de-energize the electric drill.
- Depending on the chuck, use a wrench or turn the sleeve by hand, turning it counterclockwise, thereby loosening the chuck. Avoid touching the drill bit, as it may remain hot for a while after use..
- After removing the previous drill from the chuck, change it to another and continue working or put the tool away for storage.
If you cannot turn the cartridge the first time, do not rush to the workshops, most often it is enough just to put in more effort.
How to insert a drill into a drill?
This operation is simple and quick, however some rules must be followed. Step-by-step instructions will keep you safe while setting the drill into the drill.
- Disconnect the instrument from the mains.
- Then choose a suitable drill, taking into account the nature of the work, the material in which the hole will be made and the compatibility of the drill with the drill.
- Place the drill into the chuck with the shank inward.
- Then the cartridge should be fixed, taking into account its appearance. If it is key, then fix it with a special key with teeth, if it is quick-clamping, then fix it with your hands.
- After the drill is locked, make sure that it does not wobble in the chuck and that there is no play..
- Then you can get to work.
It should be noted that the choice of drills depends on your electric drill. There are various models with a variety of technical equipment and capabilities. Some drills cannot, for example, be used for metal work. Others – allow the installation of drills with a diameter of 0.8 to 10 mm or 1.5 to 13 mm. It is not recommended to buy cheap drills made of low-quality metal, it is better to overpay, but make sure that the tool works properly and for a long time.
In situations where the drill is used only for narrowly targeted purposes and from time to time, users tend to send it for repair at the first problems that arise. However, in most cases, it is enough to be able to bypass the non-standard situations that have arisen. To troubleshoot minor problems, you need to know how to change the drill, whether it can be done without a key and how to act if it gets stuck.
Replacing the drill
To carry out this procedure, you first need to get the old drill according to the scheme described above, and then put a new one. Electric drills with keyless chucks often have problems due to the fact that the drill is firmly seated and it is not possible to unscrew the coupling. In this case, you can use a piece of cloth that will give more grip on the clutch and try to unscrew it. If this method does not help, then you need to firmly fix the drill with your hand and hit the chuck tangentially in the direction of unwinding with the palm of your other hand, continuing to fix the tool.
How to insert the drill into the drill correctly and how to remove it?
- Subtleties of operation
- How to insert a drill into a drill?
- How to remove a drill bit from a drill?
- Replacing the drill
- Keyless drill removal
- The drill is stuck
In any living space, sooner or later, a situation arises when something needs to be redone: hang a picture, screw on shelves or make wiring. But most concrete and brick walls cannot be easily pierced with a nail and a screw cannot be screwed into them. Therefore, you have to resort to using an electric drill. This is a convenient device that allows you to make a hole in the wall of the required diameter thanks to a variety of drills: for concrete, metal, glass, plastic, tiles or wood. But for the successful use of an electric drill, you should know the basic rules for using this tool..
Subtleties of operation
Electric drills began to appear at the end of the 19th century almost immediately after the invention of electric motors. The main task of the introducing tool with a percussion mechanism was the drilling of various holes in materials using electricity and rotating drills at high speed..
Already from the description it is clear: in order to use such a tool, you must follow certain safety rules.
- Before starting work, it is imperative to inspect: a drill, so that there are no open electronic (live) parts; the wire going to the network so that it is not damaged; a plug so that it is solid and working; the outlet so that it is functional and fits snugly in the wall. In this case, the plug must be firmly inserted into the socket and there must be no sparks.
- Insert the drill into the drill as tightly as possible.
- Select the required mode: drilling (twisting the drill at high speed) or drilling (drilling using a hammer mechanism).
- Select the maximum torsion speed of the drill.
- After making a hole of the required diameter and length, press the off button, and then remove the plug from the socket, so as not to accidentally start the tool when not required.
It is worth noting that there are functional drills that recognize the diameter of the drill, have stops for fixing the desired drilling depth, have handles for greater fixation of the tool in the hand, and automatically change the drilling speed. Such functional drills require additional settings so that the automation does not fail at the most inopportune moment..
The drills are selected in accordance with the requirements for the work being carried out. But it must be remembered that they are different, and some drills do not fit a particular drill..
Here the main role is played by the tool holder, which is:
The first option assumes that the user has a special key that can be used to loosen the cartridge. To do this, you need to use the hole on the drill and turn the key counterclockwise or turn it clockwise, and thus clamp it. Often this key is attached to the drill, which reduces the likelihood of losing it and allows you to remove the key from the mount and use it at any time..
The second option is something different, because the quick-release can be:
If you use a single sleeve chuck, you only need one hand to clamp, and the second option is a little more complicated: you have to clamp one sleeve, and with the other hand, turn the other sleeve. Both options save time, but the retention is much worse than using a key chuck..
Keyless drill removal
Key chucks have a definite advantage – the fixation of the drill is very powerful, but there is also a drawback – it is necessary to have a key at hand. If the key is not in place, it is quite easy to make up for this deficiency. You will need to find an object that can fix the cartridge on one side. This can be a nail, Phillips screwdriver, screw, hexagon of a suitable size. To the second half, you need to make an effort with your hands and try to untwist it – this way it is possible to pull out the drill without a key. But if you can’t handle it with your hands, you can use a vice or a large gas wrench of a suitable size.
How to insert the drill into the drill correctly
Not only the quality of work, but also the safety of the person holding the tool directly depends on how correctly the drill is inserted into the drill or perforator. After all, a nozzle that has flown out may well cause injury, and quite serious. Therefore, this moment should be taken with full responsibility. Any drilling tool in inept hands is always an object of increased danger. Therefore, when working with a drill or hammer drill, you need to do everything in full accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. Ignoring them can lead to not the most pleasant consequences..
How to insert a drill into a drill – features of different models
At first glance, there is nothing particularly complicated here. This, of course, is true, but with one caveat. There is nothing difficult in such a task for an experienced craftsman who has already worked with more than one model of a drill and perfectly understands their specifics. Meanwhile, many newbies make mistakes here..
At the same time, it should be noted that drills of various manufacturers are currently on the market – from cheap Chinese ones to world famous brands – Bosch (Bosch), Makita (Makita) and so on. They differ from each other not only in terms of technical characteristics. There are also differences in the design of some units. In this case, we are most interested in the cartridge. After all, it is into it that the drill is inserted. Most models today use cam-type chucks. Moreover, they are divided into:
- key (gear-crown);
At the same time, they have basically the same general principle. The cartridge consists of a cone-shaped body along which the sleeve moves (adjusting ring). The latter is just responsible for the approach and distance of the cams that fix the drill. The algorithm of actions here is very simple. Rotating the ring clockwise, you bring the cams closer to each other, in the opposite direction, on the contrary, move them apart. In the first case, the drill shank is fixed, in the second it is released.
If the principle of action is the same, then the mechanisms of its implementation are different. In particular, key girth gear designs require a special key that comes with the drill. It has a rather specific look and it makes no sense to paint at the moment..
Using a key inserted into a special hole on the chuck, you can rotate the ring, which has a corrugated surface, in the desired direction. This design provides a more reliable retention of the drill shank compared to keyless chucks. However, many craftsmen dislike such drills. After all, here you need to constantly use the key. If you need to change the attachments frequently, this wastes valuable time. In addition, the key should always be at hand – most often it hangs on a cord, on a special ring.
Keyless chucks are simpler. Here you can rotate the sleeve for convergence-spreading of the cams by hand. Of course, this negatively affects the reliability of fixing the drill, but this option is quite acceptable for a household tool. Some manufacturers put additional locking elements on their keyless chucks. They allow you to limit the tightening force. That is, it is a kind of fuse. These elements simply will not allow the cartridge to break – with excessive force, they will simply block the movement.
Well, now let’s move on to considering the main question – how to correctly insert the drill into the drill. It is easy to guess that the procedure in this case directly depends on the type of cartridge installed on the tool. In particular, in quick-clamping structures, first of all, grip the sleeve with your hand and turn it counterclockwise. This will spread the jaws to the desired distance and make room for the shank. Next, insert the drill, and do the above steps in reverse order. You need to rotate the sleeve already in the clockwise direction.
Often the power of the tool is used for this operation. In this case, you just need to hold the sleeve with your hand and press the start button. In this case, the reverse switch must first be set to the required position. After all, to separate the cams, the shaft must rotate in one direction, for mixing – in the other. As noted above, many models have locking elements. That is, you will definitely not break the tool. However, do not forget that the drill must be well held in your hands. Otherwise, the tool may well break out..
In order to install the drill into a ring gear chuck, we need a wrench. By rotating the sleeve with it (rotating counterclockwise), you will first spread the cams. Next, insert the drill and, holding it with your hand, do everything in the reverse order. That is, again, with the help of a clockwise wrench, we bring the cams together, thereby clamping the drill shank. In fact, there is nothing complicated here either. It just takes a little longer to change the drill..
And in conclusion, I would like to give some general recommendations on this issue. Particular attention must be paid to the reliability of the drill fixation. Therefore, do not forget to check this point every time. The control here is very simple. You just need to slightly wiggle the drill with your hand. If it is securely fixed, it should not wobble in the chuck. If you notice a problem, try tightening the cams. In addition, the shank must be fully immersed in the chuck. Experienced craftsmen are not advised to increase the length of the drill, deliberately ignoring this requirement. The risk that the nozzle will simply fly out of the cartridge, and even cause injury, will be quite high. Therefore, you should not expose yourself to unnecessary danger..
Another important point. When fixing the drill in the chuck, make sure that it is level. Any distortion after clamping the jaws is not permissible here. Such a tool is already becoming dangerous. As a result, you will damage the workpiece, or break the nozzle, not to mention the possibility of injury, because the broken part of the drill with a certain degree of probability can hit the eye. Therefore, when installing the drill, you do not need to neglect elementary safety rules..
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