I am Interested in a mower that is.
21″ (53 cm) Rear Wheel Drive Variable Speed Self-Propel (50-State)
DRIVE SYSTEM
21″ (53 cm) Rear Wheel Drive Self-Propelled with Electric Start (50-State)
DRIVE SYSTEM
21″ (53 cm) Rear Wheel Drive Self-Propelled with Electric Start (50-State)
DRIVE SYSTEM
21″ (53 cm) Variable Speed All-Wheel Drive Self-Propel (50-State)
DRIVE SYSTEM
21″ (53 cm) High Wheel Push with Honda Engine (50-State)
DRIVE SYSTEM
21″ (53 cm) High Wheel Push with Kohler Engine (50-State)
DRIVE SYSTEM
Very easy to set up out of the box. in minutes was mowing yard. I would buy this again for my city yard.
chuck49I really like this mower!
Very easy to assemble. Love the fact that with a turn of the key, it starts every time. Very efficient. A must buy.
gigiWonderful product
I’m in my 5th year with my 20″, self-propelled. I am already looking forward to my next new Lawn-Boy! I can handle it. and it doesn’t handle me. I LOVE this mower.
SteveBest handling mower i have ever used.
I bought this to replace one I had trouble starting. This one is so easy. I assembled it myself (a 57 year old independent woman). Love my new mower!
Only once in 50 years of grass cutting did I use another brand then Lawn-Boy. I will always use Lawn-Boy. I have even had one Lawn-Boy that ran well for over 20 years! That is one tough, durable, long lasting machine.
CRS35TOP OF THE LINE MOWER
Lawn-Boy in Action
21″ Lawn-Boy Line-up
The 21″ steel deep dome deck is lightweight yet durable, and it provides excellent mulching capabilities and a superior quality of cut.
High Wheel Push (10730/17730)
The 11″ high rear wheels assist you in tackling uneven or rough terrain with the powerful, reliable and easy to start Kohler engine.
Rear Wheel Drive Self-Propel (10732/17732)
Electric Start (10734/17734)
High Wheel Push (10736)
The 11″ high rear wheels assist you in tackling uneven or rough terrain with the quiet, lightweight and reliable power of the Honda GCV160 OHC engine.
AWD Lawn-Boy Mower (10739/17739)
Lawn-Boy’s all wheel drive lawn mower makes mowing slopes and hills easy. All 4 wheels are engaged and giving you great traction in tough mowing conditions.
High-quality materials
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Husqvarna bars, chains, and spare parts are built to the same high standard as our chainsaws. The use of high-quality materials, along with product development based on the real demands of tree care, ensures maximum efficiency and cutting performance from your Husqvarna chainsaw.
Replacing Honda lawn mower wheels
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Wow, found someone else with my problem. I have gone through a lot of lawnmowers and keep having the same problem with the wheels. I also have no use for a self-propelled mower and I also don’t use a bag. I bought a non-self-propelled Honda mower that doesn’t have a bag. I wear out wheels constantly. I’ve found them a little cheaper online that what you quoted. I have a problem with the wobbly wheels and have seen a YouTube video about using a short piece 1/2 inch copper water pipe as a bushing. I haven’t tried it yet.
It seems that self-propelled mowers have much higher quality wheels. The ball bearing wheels on my mower don’t seem to make a difference. I also mow across a driveway and turn my mower around out on the road, which wears the wheels out.
The Honda mower runs fine and starts up easily. I just assumed that paying almost 400 for a push mower would get me better wheels that don’t wobble. I am curious if I could use the more expensive Honda wheels on my mower. I just don’t remember having this my trouble with lawnmower wheels back in the 1970s.
I think the self propelled mowers tend to have bearings cause they are powered and would wear super fast without.
Apparently I cant post a link to a product, but do search for Arnold 490-321-0003. Thats the 7 inch wheel and for some reason cheaper than other sizes even smaller ones. These are the old 1960s/1970s style steel center wheels with replaceable bearings. They come in other sizes, think 5 inch upto 12 inch. Shop around, can vary quite a bit. Also measure width of your hub to make sure the bolt/axle is long enough on your mower. If its too long you can shim with flat washers of course.
These were what I was mentioning replacing the plastic wonders on my Murray mower in first post. It just seems unpleasant to have to pay 60 to replace wheels on what was 150 mower a couple years ago. The 12″ version of Arnold wheel is 20. After ONE YEAR of use the plastic wheels wobbly. I mean fine if manufacturer feels need to use plastic, but at least put olite bronze bushings in the wheels or the short bit copper pipe.
Now these are the design wheel used in 70s but those were USA made and these no doubt are Chinese. So your mileage may vary.
I think the real bearings are way to go if possible. I know back in old days nobody tried to lube them, they were supposedly sealed at factory with all lube they needed for life. Yea. maybe the USA version, but Chinese manufacturers arent known for attention to detail. Most of these you can get bit oil/ATF in the seam between the center and the metal seal. I have gotten some old rusted ones moving by drilling a 1/8″ hole in the seal and getting some oil/ATF forced in with oil squirter can and then hold center of bearing with vise grips and turn outer edge of bearing with pliers. Back and forth, eventually they start turning freely like they were meant to do. Obviously once you free them up, either seal the hole or regularly put couple squirts oil in the hole before use. I suppose you could use grease with blunt needle end on grease gun. One guy on YouTube suggested using bar oil made for chain saw, its very tacky and holds on longer. He also suggested oiling sealed bearings using a vacuum pump like used to evacuate car air conditioner system. Dont have to drill holes, as you release the bearing in cup oil, it will suck oil into the vacuum inside the bearing. Or he suggests other alternatives.
I found the Arnold 7″ Universal Replacement Steel Wheel with 55 lb. Load Rating on Amazon for 7.85. I’m hoping it fits.
I had a push mower (I don’t do self propelled) with the big plastic back wheels. I was mowing my 1/2 acre yard plus an old family cemetery for about 10 years and didn’t have any trouble with the wheels. I ended up having to replace one after grandson’s friend thought he’d hit the wheel with a baseball bat 8 or 10 times.
I had a push mower (I don’t do self propelled) with the big plastic back wheels. I was mowing my 1/2 acre yard plus an old family cemetery for about 10 years and didn’t have any trouble with the wheels. I ended up having to replace one after grandson’s friend thought he’d hit the wheel with a baseball bat 8 or 10 times.
Must be some difference in plastic used. But how you are supposed to determine that as a consumer before purchase is beyond me.
Also some big plastic wheels do have the replaceable sealed bearings just like the metal center wheels.
I found the Arnold 7″ Universal Replacement Steel Wheel with 55 lb. Load Rating on Amazon for 7.85. I’m hoping it fits.
Measure first, both diameter of wheel, thinking maybe some hondas used 8 inch wheels on back and 7 inch in front? And more important, measure width of hub, make sure it isnt too wide for your axle. Me personally, I have a welder, I will make it fit, but if you dont weld, its better to measure. Offset of hub also matters though probably only a problem if yours has some extreme offset. Oh the other thing might want to measure diameter of hole of your current wheels. It might not be half inch, might be some metric size, bigger or smaller. Though suspect its half inch or metric equivalent which should be 13mm? Honda mowers though were known for using non standard sizes, the crankshaft on engines on genuine Honda mower were oddball metric size rather than common 7/8 or 1 inch on most small engines. Meaning used engines salvaged from Honda mower might be hard to adapt to anything else. Same with finding replacement engine for a Honda mower. Actually rather clever way to keep Honda customers more reliant on their local dealer.