Honda Blades & Bolts, Blade Brake Clutch. Honda push mower blades

Honda Blades Bolts, Blade Brake Clutch

Part #: 15-6430

Honda 08750-960-333 Blade

Part #: 15-6458

Honda Gator Mulching Blades

We carry a large selection of Honda Gator Mulching Blades. If you do not see the Honda Gator Blades you need, please complete the Lawn Mower Parts Request Form and we will be happy to assist you.

G3 Gator Blades: G3 blades are designed for smaller engine units. The lower lift on these blades make it a great choice for sandy or abrasive conditions.

G5 Gator Blades: G5 blades provide an optimum combination for a wide range of mower units. Features a high-lift contour as well as two additional, premium features to improve performance and retain blade sharpness.

G6 Gator Blades: G6 Heavy-duty blades are designed for commercial applications and to withstand punishing conditions, while offering the full-range of features that make Gator series blades unique.

SPECIFICATIONS:. Length: 20-13/16″. Center Hole: 7/8″. Outer Hole Center to Center: 3-7/16″

Gator Blades — G3 G5 G6 /h2>

Gator blades are Oregon’s top-of-the line offering designed to boost performance and durability. The exclusive Gator Mulcher “teeth” circulate cut grass back up into the deck creating a finer cut and better looking lawn.

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Limited-Lifetime Warranty

Our goal is to help you get the job done right with outstanding products that perform to your full satisfaction. Oregon warrants its products to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for as long as they are owned by the original purchaser.

How to Change Sharpen Your Honda Lawn Mower Blades

Your Honda mower blades will become dull with use and will need to be sharpened or replaced. You may have noticed brown tips form on your grass a day or two after mowing. This, most likely, is a sign your blades are dull and must be sharpened.

The grass tips turned brown because they have been beaten up instead of precisely cut. You can easily verify this by grabbing a handful of grass and checking for tears in the tips of the grass.

When you experience this, it is time to sharpen your blades. I’ll share with you tips on inspecting, sharpening, and replacing your mower blades.

Safety Precautions: It is necessary to take safety precautions to prevent your mower from starting while working under your mower deck. You need to do more than remove the ignition key.

You need to disconnect the spark plug boot. Wear a good pair of work gloves to protect your hands when working with sharp blades.

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Follow all safety instructions provided in your equipment operator’s manual before diagnosing, repairing, or operating. Consult a professional if you don’t have the skills, or knowledge or are not in the condition to perform the repair safely.

Best Lawn Mower Blades: Reviews of our Top Picks

One of the most important and often overlooked elements to your lawn care program is your lawn mower blades.

Having a dull or chipped lawn mower blade will lead to a poor quality of cut.

Dull lawn mower blades will aggressively rip and tear leaf blades compared to a sharp blade which will give a smooth clean and even cut.

This is important for a couple or reasons.

  • First, cutting with a sharp straight blade will put significantly less stress on your lawn. When grass is stressed it will disperse stored nutrients and water leaving your turf discolored.
  • Second, when a grass blade is ripped instead of cut cleanly it will leave the leaf blade open to common turf diseases and fungus. Curing these problems are often expensive and time consuming.

These issues can be prevented in part by making sure your blades are in good condition.

If you have never changed your blades before or it’s been a couple of seasons with the same blades now is the time to replace or upgrade.

Our list of blades will consist of factory replacements as well as upgraded blades for some of the most common lawn mowers on the market.

This post may contain affiliate links for your convenience. We only include brands we use and trust. See the full disclosure in the privacy policy.

Best Blades for Toro Lawn Mowers

The 3-N-1 Mulching blade that is a great upgrade from the stock factory blades. Each blade is thru-hardened to a score of 50 on the Rockwell C-scale for optimum safety and durability, then individually straightened for precise cutting. If you are looking for blades that excel at mulching, then these are the blades you need.

  • High lift mulching blade
  • Provides efficient cut reducing the need for bagging
  • Great for side discharge
  • Better steel than factory blade
  • Works well on damp to wet turf

The Best Oregon Gator Blades for other Toro Mowers: Click Here

Best Blades for Honda Lawn Mowers

This is a great OEM direct factory replacement when you need to keep your cutting edge sharp. They cut well and leave no shredded tips on the grass and mulches completely.

The top rated universal mulching blade for 21 in lawn mowers. You’ll notices the sharpened cutting teeth create a cleaner, finer cut. These blades are manufactured in the USA to meet or exceed OEM specifications.

  • Universal fitting with included hardware for most mowers
  • Provides great lift for bagging
  • Ulta fine cut for mulching
  • Large cutting surface

Best for Common Homeowner Lawn Mowers

The perfect upgraded blade for many standard mowers including Craftsman, Husqvarna and Poulan.

Oregon blades are hands down the perfect blade for your riding lawn mower. The cutting edge on these is straight, which makes for easy sharpening on a bench grinder. The blades are noticeably thicker and heavier for long wear.

  • Excellent for mulching and bagging
  • Provides good lift for cutting on uneven surfaces
  • Carbide reinforced for strength and durability
  • Applications for 42”, 48” and 54” decks

There are also options available for 46 inch and 54 inch blades

Blade Fitment

The easiest way to determine fitment for your new blade is to reference the model number for your factory blade.

If you are unable to locate the factory model number on the blade or in your owner’s manual a simple search online including your mower type and model will lead you to the factory specs of your blade.

If you are still having trouble determining what blade will fit your mower best here are a few things to consider

  • Blade LengthMeasure your blade in a diagonal direction from tip to tip to determine the overall length of the blade. Having this measurement correct will insure the blade will fit properly seated in the mower deck. Note, that going smaller to insure fit will leave grass uncut in strips.
  • Mounting Hole ConfigurationThe mounting spindle is what will attach your new blade to your mower. These spindles come in many different configurations so proper identification will relieve frustration and get you back to mowing sooner. Use the common patterns listed below to help you determine your needs
  • Rounded: Measure the diameter
  • H Pattern
  • Y Pattern
  • Star Pattern: 5, 6, and 7 star

Blade Performance

A couple of things to consider when choosing a blade. First find a blade that is classified as high lift.

This feature will help with suction as the blade spins and “lift” as it’s being cut to ensure and even uniform cut.

Most mowers have a mulching or side discharge function. These features are used when you are not bagging and wish to return your clippings to the lawn for added nutrients. If you are using one of these two features make sure the balde you chose has a mulching capability that will cut a blade into finer pieces which will decompose faster.

Blade Coating

Whether you chose a factory replacement or an aftermarket blade it will be delivered with some sort of powdercoated or painted edge.

To get the most out of your new blade it is best to use a file to lightly remove this coating to reveal your new sharp edge.

To do this file perpendicular to the edge in one direction along the factory beveled edge. This is also a good task to perform at the beginning and of each season to prolong the life of your new blade.

This simple task will keep your blade sharp and remove any imperfections like rock gouges to keep you blade in top working order.


When removing or changing your blade it is best to always remove to boot from your spark plug. This often overlooked step is vital in ensuring safety while changing your blade.

Failure to do so may result in your blade spinning and turning the engine and the engine firing.

This simple step will remove that dangerous possibility.

Another tip to make your conversion easier is to block your blade with a scrap piece of 2×4 so your blade does not spin as your are removing the spindle bolt.

To do this place your 2×4 perpendicular to your blade deep into the mower deck’s discharge hole. Slowly rotate the blade the blade until it contacts the 2×4 and is wedged in place.


Good call on fixing it rather than replacing. I replaced my old Yard Machine with a new one and it’s a piece of crap in comparison.

It’s a great mower. I just service it every year (oil change, air filter) and keep everything lubricated (wheels, gears, pull starter) and it works wonderfully. It started on the second pull after sitting outside all winter.

The engine is overhead cam with a timing belt. it is smooth and quiet and doesn’t stink.

This is now a Golden Era Honda-thread.


I have a 1983 Honda HT-3813 lawn tractor that’s still going strong. I had the same problem as you did, only turning it on its side wasn’t a good option. You need leverage. Take a 2 foot section of PVC pipe and slip it over the blade through the discharge. That will lock the blade allowing you to use a longer handle on your breaker bar. A 2′ extension of 1″ rigid pipe would be all you’ll need.

honda, blades, bolts, blade, brake

Oval Baja

I replace the stock bolts (~14mm head) with standard bolts (~17mm head) for more surface area. Also, use a six-point socket and clean the junk off the bolt head so the socket will get full contact. Even then, I’ve still had to use a chisel or weld a nut method on these due to moisture and wear from use.

Your plastic gearbox is probably French and has quite the failure rate; if it is, you may want to repack it with lube to replace the weird thin mineral oil they used in it.

Repaint the bottom of the deck every few years and you’ll probably get another decade or three out of it.


It was 80 here today.- I got a little bit sunburned and have a nice flip-flop tan going on. But we have snow coming on Monday.

I replace the stock bolts (~14mm head) with standard bolts (~17mm head) for more surface area.

Your plastic gearbox is probably French and has quite the failure rate; if it is, you may want to repack it with lube to replace the weird thin mineral oil they used in it.

Repaint the bottom of the deck every few years and you’ll probably get another decade or three out of it.

That’s a good idea, using a larger bolt.- the socket slipped off a few times. The underside of the deck has very slight surface rust that always wears away the first time I mow the yard in the spring.

Yep, it has the France Reducteurs gearbox and it is pretty much shot. I only have 1st gear (slow) and more power on the left than the right. I looked into replacing it but it was ~150 so I just push it myself most of time and only use the power propel if I let the grass get tall in the way back. Is it worth opening up and re-lubing at this stage?

You leave your lawn mower outside all the time you say, I couldn’t tell. I haven’t used my mower in 4 months and won’t need to dig it out for at least two more months.

I have it in kind of a lean-to shelter thing. The grass isn’t really growing yet but I will probably run it around next weekend to mulch up all the leaves and neaten up the yard.