White smoke and spitting oil?
I shouldn’t be allowed to operate power tools anymore, but whatever. I was mowing my yard when I hit a piece of hidden wood. A piece of wood jammed against the side of the lawnmower and the blade, which required me to flip it on its side and dislodge the chunk of wood. After I removed the wood, I put the mower back into its right position and took a break (It’s hot out.). After my 45-minute break, I went to start it to finish cutting and it was belching out white smoke, and leaking and spitting oil out of the muffler. My father and I took a look at it finding nothing, but I took off the air filter cover and there was also an oily residue in there, more than normal. What could be wrong with it?
oh, the engine is a Briggs and Stratton
I had a whole tank of gas drain out of my timemaster while sitting in the garage for 2 days. I added gas and it barely started, then cut off after 20 seconds. It started a few other times for a short period, then blew out white smoke and drips of oil from the exhaust. What could be the problem here?
I have a craftsman Lt 1000 with a 16.5 HP briggs and stratton engine. I adjusted the valves and now the engine is smoking (white smoke) and blowing a little oil out of the exhaust.
I bought used craftsman LT 1000. Fixed carb and adjusted valves adjust ignition coil but when inStarted it. it started to smoke blueish and whitish smoke out of exhast burning oil. I thought valve seals but i opened air cleaner cover and saw oil in the air duct housing of carb i started again and saw that oil is being pushed out of pvc breather. crankcase breather. Its just at the top of carb under the flywheel housing. The pressure its spraying with is like a high pressure tap. I pulled off the rubber pipe from both sides carb and engine side and see oul layong in that long path. What causes that and what is a the quick or proper fix for it. If i routed that cranckcase breather pipe back to shoot back in engine oil housing oil pan side from dipstick or from oul drain plug side Will that cause some major problems? Also is it normal for the engine to blow outwards the oil if dipstic is pulled from the engine? I never had riding mower before never worked on them but i was an auto mechanic.
Ответов
Skippy, when you flipped it over, you drained engine oil into the cylinder. If you let it run long enough, the oil will burn itself off.
Or, you can remove the muffler, drip the excess oil out of the engine, clean it up a little with WD-40 and a rag, reassemble it, and start it up again.
It may be a good idea to remove the spark plug and either clean or replace it. If you can clean the air filter, do that also—or replace it with a new one.
Thanks dude, it’s not spitting oil anymore and no more smoke
Cool. Next time you have to tip it up again, put the carb side in the air and you will avoid the smoking again.
Uumm, do you mean the muffler side? I had the carb side up in the air when I did this (the muffler was pointed down towards the ground).
I have a Honda lawnmower and the muffler for some reason cannot come off and plus how can I take the oil out of the engine when its full. Secondly my other lawnmower I have has a cord to start the engine came out. how can i fix it.
Im suprised noone said that you arent supposed to tip a lawn mower on its side, Your supposed to tip it front end up.
Ok so same thing has happened to me. Brand new mower, used only for 2 Yrs. white smoke is coming out of it big time. Now it doesn’t want to start.
If it’s 2 years old, it was brand new 2 years ago. Now it’s 2 years old, which is quite far from brand new.
He mean to say that it is only 2 years old since he bought. Though a lawn mower may not last a life time it should definitely last more than 2 years. The issue is that the lawn mower may have tilted while you were mowing and too much oil may have come out to the filter. Open the filter and clean it up or replace it and also replace the spark plug and you should be good to go.
I have oil pumping out of the crankcase vent tube into the carb which makes a big plume of smoke. I had tipped the engine over to get the oil out to change it.
The answer from 040304 should work for you as well.
I bought a use mower from a guy and the mower did not have but a little oil in it. I put oil in it and started the mower and the mower started blowing white smoke and I have oil pouring out of the mower, can anyone tell me what just happen. What do I need to do to stop the oil leak and the smoke.
The oil is leaking by rings on piston or you added to much oil.
I have been noticing puffs of white smoke and obvious distress of the power of the Briggs and Stratton on my Toro engine as the oil is sucked into the engine on a bend or slope, it lasts for a couple of seconds and clears up. I did a check on the oil level and found it to be too high. Odd that, as it was okay in the summer. Just tried again today (the grass needs a cut despite being January) after not using the mower for a couple of months ( did not drain out the fuel for the winter) and could not start the thing. Huge puffs of white oil filled smoke from the exhaust, but not quite starting. Checked the oil and found it was no longer oil but mostly petrol / oil mix and way too full. Drained out the oil and replaced it and ride on mower started first time with oodles of white smoke burning off for a while. Trip round the garden and all well as far as the engine is concerned. Just need to solve how petrol can transfer directly into the oil sump. There is no stop !^ on the fuel side so perhaps the float valve has stuck open and petrol has been dripping into the engine and passing the rings. Any ideas?
All well with the engine. A new float valve assembly in the carb and seems to have cured the fuel leak. The fuel does go down into the crankcase ( weird design issue) when the float seal fails with wear. Added a stopper on the fuel line as well to be extra certain. New head gasket and cleaned out the very carboned head and piston top and replaced the spark plug. Set the tappets and all runs sweetly now.
I had my lawn mower tipped forward in my shed over the winter an when I got it out to cut grass for the first time this year it started spitting out oil and white smoke is it gonna blow up on me I’m scared to use it and I don’t no what the thing is called that it spitted the oil out of its on the side of lawnmower with a bunch of little tiny holes in it plz help
How to Check the Oil on Toro Lawn Mowers
Periodically checking the oil on your Toro lawn mower is one way to extend the life of your mower. Too often owners neglect this simple task and end up with engines that seize due to lack of oil. Your Toro must have an adequate amount of oil to lubricate the moving parts within the engine. Checking the oil on a Toro mower, and adding oil as necessary keeps your engine lubricated correctly. The key to checking the oil is to park the mower on level ground so that you get an accurate reading.
Place the Toro mower on level ground. Locate the oil fill tube on the side of the engine. The fill tube has a yellow cap to clearly identify the oil fill tube.
Turn the cap counterclockwise with your hand and pull the cap off the oil fill tube. The dipstick is on the bottom of the cap. Wipe the dipstick clean with a clean shop rag.
Insert the dipstick into the oil fill tube and turn the cap clockwise to fully install the dipstick. Twist the cap counterclockwise and remove the dipstick. Check the oil level against the dipstick. There are two lines on the dipstick. The oil should be between the two lines. Add oil if necessary and fully insert the dipstick into the fill tube. Turn the cap clockwise to fully seal the cap.
Toro Riding Mowers
Park the Toro riding mower on a level surface. Pull the key out of the ignition, and raise the hood of the mower. Locate the yellow cap on the oil fill tube.
Pull the cap out of the fill tube. The dipstick attaches to the bottom of the cap just like any other mower. Wipe the dipstick clean with a shop rag.
Insert the dipstick into the fill tube and press the cap all the way down until it is fully on the fill tube. Pull the cap back out and check the oil level on the dipstick. Add oil if necessary, and place the dipstick back into the fill tube until the cap is fully on the fill tube.
Always ensure that the cap is fully sealed to the fill tube when checking oil. Failure to fully seat the cap before pulling the dipstick out results in a false reading.
K_Watson
The factory recommended oil is HD30. I use 10w30 synthetic in mine, which is just like yours, conventional will be fine too.
I don’t not use any oil additives, but do I use a miz of 0.5oz Sta-bil and 1oz SeaFoam per gallon of gas.
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Phil_Bleach
I use 10w30 conventional in my lawn mower, the same oil I put in my car. My lawn mower has a flathead Briggs engine, according to the manual I’m fine with 10w30 but a rise in oil consumption is to be expected when mowing the lawn at temps above 27C.
I use 10w30 conventional in my lawn mower, the same oil I put in my car. My lawn mower has a flathead Briggs engine, according to the manual I’m fine with 10w30 but a rise in oil consumption is to be expected when mowing the lawn at temps above 27C.
69887
If the manufacturer recommends a single grade 30 weight oil, I would not use a 5W-30 or 10W-30 conventional oil, because conventional multi-viscosity oils are much more subject to viscosity breakdown than single weight oils. Instead, once the engine is broken in, I would use 5W-30 synthetic oil. Even the cheapest synthetic is fine. Synthetics do not experience viscosity breakdown to anywhere near the same degree as multi-viscosity conventional oil.
Mobil 1 is currently offering a rebate on their oil if you buy 5 quarts before end of May.The best deal is a 5-quart jug from Walmart with the rebate (google to find the Mobil 1 rebate offer). They accept receipts from Walmart, even though Walmart is not listed as a participating retailer on the Mobil 1 website.
Greasymechtech
HTHS determines whether an oil’s visc breaks down. Silly manufacturers assume that SAE30’s are the best when many are pathetic.
All my smaller engines get higher HTHS oils that I share with my fleet. 0w40 is one of the better ones, especially if a Euro oil. Don’t use any oil additives.
The 5w30 10w30 oils that are US spec’d SN/GF5 are low HTHS MPG oils. They are also now low ash oils with less additives. I would not use them. Diesel oils and Euro oils will have HTHS, additives, or both.
Toro lawn mower oil
Toro walk behind mowers are a popular choice for homeowners and businesses alike. They are reliable and easy to use, but they can occasionally experience problems. One of the most common problems is a dull or damaged blade. If your Toro walk behind mower is not cutting grass as well as it used to, it may be time to replace the blade.
There are a few things you can do to troubleshoot a dull or damaged blade. First, check the blade for any obvious signs of damage, such as chips, cracks, or dents. If you see any damage, the blade will need to be replaced. You can also check the blade for sharpness by running your finger along the edge. If you feel any burrs or nicks, the blade will need to be sharpened or replaced.
Replacing the Blade
What Does SAE Stand For in Oil?
SAE is the acronym for the Society of Automotive Engineers. They are an organization that sets global standards in a variety of fields related to transportation and aerospace. It is the responsibility of the SAE to ensure that automotive oil is standardized throughout the world.
Yes. As previously stated, engine oil made for cars and trucks is the highest quality oil on the market and it works optimally with nearly all four-stroke engines.
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