How to Insert the Drill in the Peorator Properly?
It must be cleaned of dust. After that it is necessary to put a specialized lubricant on the slits of the equipment and with force insert it into the chuck of the drill. Press down until you hear a click. Pull the drill on itself, if it does not come out, the installation was successful.
For drilling you need to set the drill in the place where you want to make a hole, and only then press the button. Do not press too hard on the surface when working with the accelerator.
How to clamp the auger from the peorator in an impact drill?
How to clamp the drill bit in the impact drill?
How to clamp the auger evenly in the core drill and not to knock out the cams?
In the beginning it is necessary to decide, there are options with clamping the drill, without saving it for work in the pen, there are options with saving.
How accurate should be the drilling, that is, what are the tolerances for runout.
If you do not need the drill bit later on, clamp it in a vice and use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel (wheel) on metal, cut the shank of the drill bit with slots.
Then let out the “jaws” of the chuck and clamp the usual drill bit in the chuck of the impact drill (tighten the chuck with the wrench, if it is not a rapid-clamp).
If the drill is needed in the future, but not a large runout is acceptable, you can take sandpaper on a fabric basis, cut to the width of the grooves of the drill.
Next, we wind sandpaper on the drill and clamp it in the chuck.
A more reliable option in which the drill will not strike, is a sleeve on the grooves of the drill.
We unscrew the bolt and cut the bushing (it is possible with a grinder, or metal saw) as shown in this photo.
We need the part of the sleeve with the slit.
all, we put (we hammer down) a sleeve on the drill (the diameter of the sleeve is selected under the diameter of the drill, we are interested in the inside diameter of the sleeve) and we clamp the drill in the chuck of an impact drill.
It is clear that any tool should be used as intended, and then we can expect from it the proper quality of work performed. However, this question quite often arises, for various reasons. either there is no handy drill bit for a concrete drill, or there are problems with the drill bit.
To clamp the core drill to the three-jaw chuck of an impact drill, is not easy, but there are some ways.
If you do not feel sorry for the auger, you can simply grind its shank, or close its diametrically located oblong grooves, designed for the transmission of rotational force in the clamping mechanism of the peorator. It can be done and dry welding (but this auger will continue to be used only in the drill chuck) and you can just make a sleeve of tin, if the drill chuck can clamp that diameter, because the drill shank 10 mm thick wall tin sleeve, and the maximum diameter of the chuck clamped impact drill should be 13-14 mm.
I still have drills, which do not have a big chamfer, and such drills can be accurately clamped in a three-cam punch drill chuck, if you set both slots perpendicular to one of the chuck jaws, the other two, will clamp the shank just on the edge of the slot.
Clamping of course in a collet chuck is not a problem. But the question is that often people do not always understand the process that takes place when making holes in this or that material. The fact that the drill and the concrete drill have a different technological feature in making holes in concrete and brick. And the impact force, in other words, the impact energy, and the direction of the impact of the torch and the impact drill are slightly different. Accordingly, the sharpening of a drill bit for an impact drill and a drill bit for a peorator are different. If you install the core bit in an impact drill, you can drill into a brick wall, of course, but you can hardly succeed in a concrete structure. In the core drill the edge is sharpened under the angle allowing to make the cut, but in the core drill the sharpening is made in such a way that the main effect is achieved due to the direct impact under the angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the surface where the hole is drilled. For a more accurate understanding of this question, I am attaching some visualizations, according to which you can more clearly understand the above-described inofrmation.
If the auger instead of the concrete drill in the percussion drill is normal?
will drill (Bosch) or not allowed at all? In general, I tried and drilled one hole by replacing the drill bit with a drill. it went fine. But then what happens?? The change is required because the drill is short and the auger is longer, which is what I need.
It’s normal for a drill. The drill will kill the concrete.
What’s normal for a drill??I don’t think it’s designed for that kind of impact force and will do more drilling than impact damage.IMHO
The drill is not about sharpening, it is about sharpening the drill bit. There is a question about another tool. a drill. There are carbide drills for it. They’re used to drill through concrete. The auger material is not worse than drills. So you can drill with a drill.
Drill sharpening is different from drill sharpening.And the sludge auger is different.
2Pitbul is not about sharpening.к. I was going to drill with a concrete drill. The problem is most likely a normal drill clamp in the drill chuck. After all, an ordinary drill bit has a strictly round base and the drill chuck is designed for such a way. And the auger has some notches, etc. and maybe the chuck will not clamp the drill badly and it will slip out, etc. while working?
The auger will not affect the specifications in the drill. No one told me not to resharpen. I still maintain that the auger will do the job in the drill NO WAY worse than a carbide-tipped drill bit.
2Alex_Penza Well, do I have other options for drilling concrete (if I can not find a long drill bit with a solder)? The auger TTX is what?
i once drilled with a drill cut with an angle grinder (the tail was out of alignment in the chuck) concrete. not great and burned out fast.
iceman8 wrote : not good and burned out fast.
GEO-Tr wrote : And the auger has some notches, etc. and maybe the chuck will not clamp the bit well and it will slip out, etc. while working
That’s what they told me at the devolt tech center. Inquired there, I don’t remember for what reason, well, “got it”.
iceman8 wrote: I once drilled with a cut-off angle grinder (the tail was out of alignment in the chuck) concrete. not cool and burnt out fast
Maybe it’s the rotational speed. the drill has a higher speed of some kind. And by the way, the auger shape can also be designed for a certain speed. In the sense of shoveling debris out. But I will not say for sure, because I’m not a pro.
You can drill. Well wear out the carbide insert earlier. well, the hell with it. If you can’t clamp the drill into the chuck, you can cut the shank, for example.
GEO-Tr wrote: Replacement is required because the drill is short, and the drill. longer, which I need.
Actually, drills also come in different lengths, so you can look for and buy.
Rarely, there was overheated, sorry for him, and the work is worthwhile. Certainly, the impact drill is not even close to pe, even in Khrushchev concrete (not to mention the monolith), but the option quite working. Although the “side”. a grand is better to buy one Sturmik than a dozen Haver
Why you need a special chuck
To begin with, it should be noted that despite the outward resemblance of a torch and a drill, these tools have a completely different design. The drill chuck rotates by transmitting torque from the motor shaft through a gearbox of several gears. A collet mechanism is used in the drill to ensure that the drill bit is securely retained. The torque is converted from rotating torque to reciprocating torque in the drill. This drill also has a normal rotation mode. Because of the reciprocating motion, the device is equipped with a special kind of retainer. Collet chucks are not suitable for the tools in question, because they can not withstand reciprocating motion. This is why the special SDS chuck is used, which can withstand both rotary and reciprocating motion. If there is a need to use a drill bit in the peorator, then there is no need to replace the chuck.There are special adapters for the peorator, through which you can install any bits with a cylindrical or hexagonal shank. Such adapters can significantly ease the life of the craftsman, especially if you have drills for drills in your arsenal. Good to know! It is impossible to insert a drill bit with a cylindrical shank into an SDS drill bit. For such purposes there are special adapters, which are usual collet clamps with shank for SDS-chuck.
How to insert an ordinary drill bit into the torch
Cases in which it is necessary to perform drilling not concrete, but metal or some other material with a peorator, are not uncommon. For this purpose, the master has to resort to the use of special drill bits with SDS shanks. Such drills are available in various diameters, but their disadvantage is high It is important to note that such products come in both key and rapid-clamp type. By installing such a clamp, you can use any attachments with a cylindrical shank shape, such as drills, mixer, drill bits. A large number of revolutions of the drill does not always allow you to mix mortars. That is why they resort to using powerful units, especially if large volumes of mortar need to be mixed. It is recommended that craftsmen buy the quick-clamp types of clamps, because the peorator is quite a heavy machine, so it is very difficult to hold it and unscrew the nozzle with a wrench. Using a quick-change clamp allows you to quickly and quickly change attachments, unlike a key clamp.
The use of adapters makes it possible to carry out various types of work with a peorator, while a drill is not able to cope with them. For example, it is very difficult to drill large diameters in wood with a small drill. To avoid overloading the drill, which can burn out from overloading, it is recommended to use a peorator. This tool will drill a hole of any diameter that a drill can’t handle. Good to know! Backlash in the chuck design reduces the high accuracy of the work performed. This means that this tool is not designed more for precision than for power.
Features of adapter selection
When selecting an adapter for the peorator, you should consider the type of chuck used in the tool. These units can use chucks of these types:
- SDS-plus, which are used in household machines. They allow the mounting of shanks with a diameter of 10 mm.
- SDS-max. Such chucks allow you to fix shanks with a diameter of 20 mm, and are used mainly in professional models.
Important to know! The SDS-plus chuck design was invented by Bosch in Germany in the 1980s. The abbreviation SDS stands for “Steck-Dreh-Sitzt,” which in German means: “insert, turn, drill fixed.”. Selecting this factor must be taken into account, otherwise the adapter simply will not fit the tool. When choosing, you should also take into account that key chucks are more reliable, but require a special key. Quick-clamp tools are easy to use, but have a short service life. In the SDS-max it is possible to use tools for SDS-plus, for which special adapters are used. Reverse replacement is impossible. In conclusion, it is necessary to note the effectiveness of the tool in question. Although the drill allows you to solve many different technological problems, but the peorator is used where power plays an important role.
Why the drill bit falls out of the torch?
Quite often many people have a problem when the drill is not securely fixed in the chuck and begins to fall out of it. It should be said right away that if your tool is still under warranty, you should take it to the store for repair. Below we will try to figure out what is the reason for drill bit falling out and how to deal with it.
How to repair and sharpening drill bits, sharpen drill bits for metal
Such a problem occurs for three reasons:
- Factory defect in the manufacturing and assembly of the torch;
- Wear of the chuck locking mechanisms;
- Improper handling of the tool during operation.
If the cause is a factory defect, the tool should be repaired when the problem is first detected. If the chuck has worn out, the only sure way to fix the problem is to change it. Drill bits can fall out more likely because the retainers in the chuck are worn out. A repair shop may be able to replace worn-out retaining balls so you don’t have to replace the entire chuck. Such repairs are less expensive.
To avoid the problem of a falling out drill bit, it is necessary to handle the tool properly when working. Lubricate the core bits and drills regularly and keep the tool free of dust and dirt after use. Hold the tool perpendicular to the plane when working, and do not twist it. Do not apply excessive pressure to the tool.
The most common causes of drill bit breakage
Practice shows that the most common causes of drill bit breakage during operation are the following:
How to Keep Drill Bits from Coming OUT!!! (LOCKING THE CHUCK)
- Incorrect drilling conditions. The correct speed and pressure on the tool must be selected.
- Material mismatch between the workpiece and the drill bit. For example, if a drill bit designed for wood is used on a metal workpiece, it will break.
- Not sharpening the cutting edge for a long time. The condition of the tool should be monitored and from time to time it should be corrected with a special machine.
- Edge milling. It usually occurs when drilling at high speed, especially if the drill bit is already blunt.
- Lack of proper cooling. Drilling causes the metal to become hot and reduces its toughness. Even when using carbide drills, it is necessary to use cutting oils and coolants.
Very often drill bits that are dipped in a jar of cold water for cooling break down. If there is no normal coolant on hand, experienced craftsmen advise preparing a substitute:
“To make drill bits last longer, an emulsion of water, soap, and machine oil should be made for them. Dissolve 200 grams of laundry soap in a bucket of water, pour 5 tablespoons of machine oil and boil everything until you get a homogeneous mixture”.
Depending on the material of the part to be drilled, a mixture of castor oil and technical vaseline, castor oil and kerosene, turpentine diluted with alcohol, etc. can be used.д. These mixtures will not completely replace a good coolant, but they will still hold the drills better than water.
Poor cutting edge condition and improper drilling technique are most often the cause of drill bit breakage inside the workpiece. As a preventive measure, keep your drill bits sharpened and properly cooled.
How to correctly insert a drill bit into an electric screwdriver?
go to the chuck and then take the bit and put it in the center of the chuck (between the open “jaws”) and then clockwise rotate the sleeve to secure it (if it is a key-type chuck then put the wrench in the recess);
The drill bit can be clamped and loosened in the jaws by hand. The drill bit is simply inserted into the open clamping jaws and then the sleeve of the chuck is rotated by hand to tighten it. There are one socket and two socket chucks.
Can an ordinary drill bit be inserted into the peorator??
An essential difference is also the type of attachment, which in all chucks, except for drills, is suitable only for peorator, as it has a planting tail, fasteners in the form of grooves for this tool. But it is also possible to insert a regular drill bit into the torch.
Concrete drill bits can be classified into two types:
- Concrete drill bit for drills. Its design includes a shank, which has the form of a cylinder or polyhedron;
- Concrete drill bit for peorator. It is made in the form of a shank, and the shape resembles a cylinder, and also provides a marking SDS PLUS or SDS MAX.
What kind of tool is a peorator?
The rotary hammer drill is an impact tool that rotates as well as striking. Unlike drilling, the peorator does not drill (do not cut) the hole with the sharp edge of the drill, but pierces the hole with a drill, like a chisel, with a mechanized rotation of the drill.
Drills The most common tool. Unlike a drill, the auger for peorator does not cut, but chops material, so the most important part of the drill is the carbide tip. The tip has a centering point to make the bit go deeper at the right point.