Mini baler for 1025R
I’ve been looking for a mini baler to work with my 1025R. I know some of those Italian-built ones will work, but they are rather expensive. I see Yanmar makes the YMRB32 that requires an 18HP PTO (which the 1025R does, barely) and weighs 734 pounds. So I’m assuming if I don’t try to overwork the machine with too heavy windrows, I figure PTO power will suffice. But since it weighs 53 pounds over the stated lift capacity (According to JD specs) is it a deal-breaker or is there enough leeway with specs that the weight won’t be a major issue? We’re very flat ground and distance to the field isn’t that far.
I’m assuming lift height isn’t an issue with a 1025R? I know there are times I’ve been a little frustrated with the Limited Cat 1.
Auguste
That bailer is on wheels so its weight should not be an issue for you
Auguste. a blue collar guy working in a white collar world Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada :canada
1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month. no lawn cutting
Accessories ~ Front End Loader ~ Backhoe ~ Mid-Mounter Mower ~ Box Blade ~ Forks ~ Roto Tiller ~ Chipper ~ Mulch Kit ~ Sub-soil Conditioner ~ Ballast Box ~ Plug Aerator ~ DeThatcher ~ iMatch Quick Hitch ~ Landscape rake
SRG
I’ve been looking for a mini baler to work with my 1025R. I know some of those Italian-built ones will work, but they are rather expensive. I see Yanmar makes the YMRB32 that requires an 18HP PTO (which the 1025R does, barely) and weighs 734 pounds. So I’m assuming if I don’t try to overwork the machine with too heavy windrows, I figure PTO power will suffice. But since it weighs 53 pounds over the stated lift capacity (According to JD specs) is it a deal-breaker or is there enough leeway with specs that the weight won’t be a major issue? We’re very flat ground and distance to the field isn’t that far.
I’m assuming lift height isn’t an issue with a 1025R? I know there are times I’ve been a little frustrated with the Limited Cat 1.
Pretty neat little deal. One of the Комментарии и мнения владельцев says it is right about 11,000 MSRP tho:munch:
:usa 1997 JD 870 (28hp Yanmar), FWA, R1’s, 300x loader, 61″ bucket, 42″ Titan forks, Pat’s Easy Change. [72″ KK box blade, 72″ KK landscape rake, 72″ Titan pine straw rake, 72″ Express Steel snow pusher, 72″ KK Pro tiller, 60″ rotary cutter, middle buster, boom pole] 2004 JD 797 (29hp Kawasaki) Z-Trak, 72″ 7-Iron deck, Mulch blades, Carlisle AT101’s.
Darwin 1025r. 60D Auto Connect MMM; H120 FEL, 53″ bucket, KBOH (3), shackle backer (3), bolt on replaceable cutter; Frontier SB1154; 5′ king cutter box blade; king cutter 3pt trailer mover; JD ballast box; 1.25″ rear wheel spacers, 40 gallon Fimco sprayer, 52″ Ohio Steel lawn sweeper, 3pt King Kutter Poly Fertilizer spreader, CRI root bucket
I looked into the horsepower requirements of vintage square ballers and couldn’t find a model that the 1025r could comfortably power. But there are so many vintage tractors out there for cheap that I personally wouldn’t attempt to use the 1025 anyways. But it had been a long time since I bailed any hay and I’m unlikely to do so any time soon. I was really just curious, so I could have overlooked a model. I know that Messicks showed a BX pulling a square bailer, but I couldn’t figure out which model.
As to your question, It doesn’t look like the 3pt takes all of the weight so you should be fine. Remember that any quick hitch will move the weight backwards and adds weight of its own, but since it has its own wheels, that shouldn’t be an issue either.
2016 1025R FITLB : OTC (winter only) : AF10F front blade : Titan 42″ forks : 60″ First Choice RFM : KK 48″ Tiller : EA 60″ Pine Straw Rake : 60″ Landscape Rake : Pat’s Hooks : HH w/ 12 42# weights : KK Ripper/Potato Plow : Loaded Rears with 50# weights : Ken’s Hooks, springs and straps : HH Tooth Bar : Edge Tamers : BXPanded 6″ bucket w/coupler 2014 X320 : Johnny Plow/Johnny Bucket : Bagger
PJR832
If I were to go small this is as small as I would go. https://www.smallfarminnovations.com/Product/3X3-Compact-Round-Baler/TRB910-Middle-Roll-Baler/910 But it’s not as much about HP with a baler as it is about weight, if your ground is flat no problems, but if you have any hills you wouldn’t want something pushing you. I think with a small tractor, even a 2R or 3 series you’d want something on a drawbar so you can offset and not have the tractor trying to straddle the windrows.
Pat #compactfarmer 3039R w/Deluxe cab/320R / Kawasaki Mule(The Donkey) 610xc w/ Warn winch / Lots of Frontier things to hookup to it / Z355E for mowing duties/ Watch us farm in a compact fashion on YouTube:Elk Creek Acres One of the biggest problems people face is knowing enough about something to think they’re right, but not knowing enough to realize that they may be wrong.
Auguste
With a decent size tractor you could probably pick up a decent used baler for a couple thousand bucks.
11k vs. 6500k. that’s 9k to put toward a larger tractor that would make running a baler a breeze.
Auguste. a blue collar guy working in a white collar world Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada :canada
1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month. no lawn cutting
Accessories ~ Front End Loader ~ Backhoe ~ Mid-Mounter Mower ~ Box Blade ~ Forks ~ Roto Tiller ~ Chipper ~ Mulch Kit ~ Sub-soil Conditioner ~ Ballast Box ~ Plug Aerator ~ DeThatcher ~ iMatch Quick Hitch ~ Landscape rake
Auguste
Can’t fault you for wanting to use your tractor to do your own work, I mean that’s why we buy them, right? Given the size of bale these little balers put out, I would try to find someone with a small square baler to custom bale my hay. They stack and handle easier than rounds.
Auguste. a blue collar guy working in a white collar world Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada :canada
1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month. no lawn cutting
Accessories ~ Front End Loader ~ Backhoe ~ Mid-Mounter Mower ~ Box Blade ~ Forks ~ Roto Tiller ~ Chipper ~ Mulch Kit ~ Sub-soil Conditioner ~ Ballast Box ~ Plug Aerator ~ DeThatcher ~ iMatch Quick Hitch ~ Landscape rake
mcavvie
Another thing to think about is your exhaust, a down exhaust is not recommended for haying. The hot exhaust could ignite the hay.
2018 3039r, 320r loader, 6’ bush cutter, 59” front snowblower, box blade, landscape rake, forks, 54” HLA grapple. ripper bar, pto driven dump trailer, pto cordwood saw. 1985 Bolens 1900 Eliminator, 1977 Sears 16/6 (restored). and various attachments for all tractors, 2006 Komatsu PC18 MR2 Mini excavator. Woodmizer LT15 bandsaw mill :greentractorride: :canada
How To Make A Mini Hay Baler?
Making your own mini hay baler that can be operated without anything but a little elbow grease is a great way to store hay more efficiently than loose stacks. Mechanical balers cost thousands of dollars and require other heavy equipment to operate, including the tractor, mower, and rake. If you aren’t making hay on tens of acres, doing the whole process by hand may be for you!
Here is a forewarning: baling hay by hand will never be as efficient as baling with machinery. However, it is much more cost-effective and if you have the extra time to build your baler and bale each bale of hay, then it can be useful for a few acres of hay.
Baling by hand uses a DIY mini box baler to create rectangular bales. Most who hand-bale make two-twine bales that weigh around 15-30 lbs, depending on your box baler’s size and how firm your press your hay together.
Making small bales like this allows for smaller storage space than if you were to put up the same amount in loose hay, and makes for easily stackable bales. You can use this to bale your yard, a friend’s yard, or a few acres of actual hayfield! Use these bales to feed your livestock, from rabbits to cattle.
Doing this also allows you complete control over the hay quality so you can match it to your animals’ needs. Baling different qualities of hay and different species of grass and legumes make it possible to pick and choose what and when to feed your animals, based on their need. With a hand baler, you can meticulously bale hay by quality and species for seasonal, size, and sex requirements.
How To Build A Mini Baler
Building a mini baler to make bales by hand isn’t particularly difficult, and there are multiple plans available for free online.
The baler will feature a crate/box that functions as the container of the loose hay that is to be baled and a press that is used to condense the bale itself. Features like a door and holders for your twine will also make your job easier.
Box Dimensions
Decide on the dimensions you desire for these handmade hay bales. Construct a box with plywood and dimensional lumber to fit this size.
While I could recommend exact sizes, it’s best for you to decide what size you need based on the size of bale you need, the total weight of the baler (which should be portable), and your available tools and budget.
Slats Door
On the front side of the box, install a door with vertical slats, as seen in the video above. The slats allow for easier tying of bales and the door allows you to release the bale when it is tied.
Twine Holders
Place two eyebolts next to each other where they will almost be touching on the bottom, back, and top of the box. This is where you will thread your hay twine through to keep it in place.
The eyebolts keep it in place while still allowing the twine to be easily released when pulled once the bale is finished. If you are making two-twine bales, you’ll make two of these paths of eyebolts.
The Plunger
Build your plunger press with heavy and stable lumber. Utilize the right angles for your height to maximize your leverage when making bales. This will allow you to create more dense bales.
Operating The Mini Hay Baler
When you are ready to bale, string your twine through your eyebolt paths, leaving extra in the front and top to wrap around and tie. Load the box with loose hay and hand-pack the hay.
Once you reach the top of the box, press your plunger down to compact the hay. Load it up again and repeat until you have the right dimensions for your bale. Then tie it off and open the door!
Factors To Consider When Building Your Baler
When building out your mini hay baler, you need to consider the weight of the baler. If you plan on cutting all of your hay by hand you’ll either be raking all the loose hay to where the baler is or bringing the baler to the hay. If you want to make this easily transportable, ensure the dimensions you use fit on a dolly cart that you can wheel through your field.
Another factor to consider is the time it takes to make these hand bales. It may take you 5 minutes to make your first few bales. Even when you have practiced multiple times, it’s doubtful you can make a bale in less than 2 minutes with all of the loading, pressing, and tying. If you have the room to store loose hay, it may be more efficient.
Lastly, consider how much hay you will be processing. If you have multiple acres that are flat and accessible by tractor, it may be worth it to hire a local hay farmer to bale your field for you unless you have ample time to do it yourself by hand.
It’s great to do things for yourself by hand, but missing out on hundreds of lbs of hay because you couldn’t cut and/or bale it on time would be a shame!
Pooh_Bear
Platinum Member
Joined Jan 2, 2005 Messages 739 Location Dunlap TN 25 miles north of Chattanooga Tractor Early 1949 Ford 8N
Seen some walk behind balers here. These are for the two wheel tractors. http://www.earthtoolsbcs.com/
I got lots of hits on this when I did a google search. Mite have to check some of these out later myself. Google Search for Walk Behind Hay Baler
Veteran Member
If you look at the price on those little balers, you may think twice. 7K!
A suspect you could but a real used baler in working condition for less than that price.
If moving the bales is a problem, keep in mind that you can make bales smaller than the maximum size. My vermeer rebel makes a 4’x5′ bale that weights ~1000 lbs. It takes a reasonable tractor to move these around. But you can make 4′ wide by 2′ round bales as well with that same machine. And these are light enough to move around with any tractor.
The only issue then would be do you have a compact tractor with enough HP to run the baler.
Mini square baler for lawn mower
BROWSE ON THE GO WITH
I purchased a mini round baler from The Tractor Company last July. I had my reservations when purchasing this over the phone but when the machine arrived and was put to work I was very surprised at how well made and efficient it was at baling my hay. We were late with the cut due to weather so my hay was very thick and long (5ft) but no problem for the machine. The machine is perfect for my small hobby farm with about 3 acres in hay. Jon and his team were very helpful and I can highly recommend them. Michael Clark Black Creek on Vancouver island
MINI Compact Tractor Mini Round Hay Baler (Small)
View larger
Maximum Bale Size: 0.6m wide by 0.5m high
Out of stock taking back order now for delivery FEB 2022
This machine produces bales with an average mass of 15 to 25KG. Smaller bales have several advantages, including the added ease of handling and storage.
As with all our items, the baler is a very high quality, made from reliable components with a tough yet affordable design. This machine is ideal for the baling of all kinds of materials, from standard hay and straw to vine cuttings and highly saleable garden mulch materials like pine forest needles!
The Mini Baler is the only kind available in this class, which can use safe natural rope hemp for twine. This, unlike plastic type twines and netting will not cause severe injury to livestock if ingested. The natural rope twine is also a fast rotting material if composted.
The Mini Baler is incredibly easy to use and has the fullest instructions and labelling. This makes the set-up for first-time users hassle-free and fast. The machine has its own hydraulic pump for superior bale handling and weights can easily be set to the weight preferred by the user. Even wet bales can be baled with a moisture content of beyond 60%. This means in case of need, you could bale as early as March or as late as November. Now that’s what we call flexible!
Main benefits include:
- Superb quality long lasting piece of equipment.
- Boasts the highest quality and logical functionality.
- Very tough yet very affordable design, half the price of similar EU models and much easier to use due to the superior design.
- All models incorporate on board self-automated Hydraulics and expanding wheel bases for stability if needed on hills or slopes.
- Rugged made reliable components are ideal for the baling of all kinds of material bales, from hay and straw, haylage and silage, right through to vine cuttings, heather and highly saleable garden mulch materials like pine forest needles!
- Highly durable steel rollers are adopted for the compression system. Power fluctuation is less than hay square baler, stable and noiseless operation can be expected.
- The gearbox output is protected by shear bolt. When overload occurs, the shear bolt will cut itself and protect the machine from damage.
- All the operation is done on your tractor seat by the switch box. The buzzer goes off and notifies you when bale density reaches a set value.
SPECIFICATIONS:
- Mini Baler. Round Bale weight 15KG. 25KG
- Maximum Bale Size: 0.6m wide by 0.5m high
- The bale density can be easily set to 8 different levels with pin installation.
- Bale size is 70cm width x 50cm diameter and easy to handle.
- 1m wide, 1m high. Wheels expand to 1.5m (for stability when traversing steep slopes etc)
Size of Machine:
1m wide, 1m high. Wheels expand to 1.5m (for stability when traversing steep slopes etc)
Upper5Percent
Built well enough for everyday agricultural use, this mini-baler produces a 40 to 60 pound (depending on moisture of hay and how tight you roll it) bale measuring 21′ x 23″, every 60 seconds or so with maximum size windrow. Bales are formed by a series of chain-driven patented aluminum rollers around the circumference of the bale chamber no belts or bands to dry-rot or need adjustment. Chains are automatically oiled during operation, and much heavier-duty than you would think necessary, no more power than these little tractors have… but that’s a good representation of how CAEB over-builds this thing. The Baler forms “soft-core” bales which allows air to circulate through the bale center while the outside of the bale is rolled tight to shed moisture if left outside. Bales are wrapped with a self-sticking UV resistant nylon net-wrap OR a biodegradable netting upon request.
The number of bales you can make on one roll of net-wrap varies according to the “lap” setting you choose on the Baler: The most common is the “2.5 lap” setting, which will do about 425 – 450 bales and results in a nice, durable bale… but if you’re not handling the bales much and really want to conserve the netting, the “1.5 lap” setting will get you about 700 bales per roll.
An indicator on the side of the machine tells the operator when the bale is fully formed, at which point the operator pulls a lever which trips the net-wrapping, wrap cutting and chamber opening cycle. The operator then sets the bale out of the chamber, closes the chamber, and resumes baling. As with the hayrake/ted der, the front wheels steer to guide the machine with a steering rod that comes out to the operator. This baler will bale hay, leaves, and even pine needles as long as the material is dry (green hay can be made into silage using the CAEB Bale Wrapper). Baler comes with one roll of net-wrap, automatic chain oiler, parking brake and male a quick-coupling built into the PTO hookup flange. Requires tractor be equipped with female quick-coupling.
Here is a video of the baler in operation.
“You know, farming looks mighty easy when your plow is a pencil, and you’re a thousand miles from the corn field.” DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER Address at Bradley University, Peoria, Illinois, 9/25/56
Upper5Percent
They also sell a rake that hooks up to a BCS or Grillo 2 wheel tractors. Molon Side-delivery Hayrake / Tedders
This well designed tool is PTO driven, so it has plenty of power to move a large amount of hay and sweep the ground clean. Fully adjustable height of tines make it adaptable to any situation. In fact, when lowered all the way, the tines will de-thatch a lawn! This rake makes perfect size windrows for our Baler, or you can rake a plot of hay into a central ‘haystack’ for easy forking into a vehicle loose. It also works very well as a tedder (spreads the windrows of hay back out to dry in case it gets wet before baling) it takes about 20 seconds to convert from a rake to a tedder or back again; just one simple frame adjustment. hay-3The front wheels of the rake are controlled by a steering system to guide the machine; steering lever protrudes back over tractor to operator. Available in 40″, 48″, 60″ and 72” widths (only 40” and 60″ stocked; others special order). 40″ size works well for raking pine needles in narrow rows and is more economical for really small haying operations where the Baler is not justified.
“You know, farming looks mighty easy when your plow is a pencil, and you’re a thousand miles from the corn field.” DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER Address at Bradley University, Peoria, Illinois, 9/25/56
Crash5291
Funny this topic came up as i was just discussing this with my wife. I told her i’d like to get a good used sickle mower, rake sq baler for no more than 3K to cut 10 acres for our 4 horses mini donkey. I have 15 more acres(grass) that i run them on the majority of time split them between the other two 5 acre fields for a week or two at a time, anymore than that they would turn them into weeds. I have to fertilize the 15 acres every other year to keep it producing grass instead of weeds, the two 5 acre fields do great w/o it. I’ve been checking CL comparing think i can do it for 3K, the baler would be the hard part in trying to get a decent one.
It appears that you have a tractor that’s capable of pulling a bigger sickle and a rake; both of those can be found on CL for a few hundred bucks and would certainly speed things up. What about possibly building a grapple for the loader?
esnb74
It appears that you have a tractor that’s capable of pulling a bigger sickle and a rake; both of those can be found on CL for a few hundred bucks and would certainly speed things up. What about possibly building a grapple for the loader?
Your 584 will work great for any of your hay needs. An old rake and sickle mower can be bought dirt cheap these days in my area. Even hay balers go pretty cheap. 4000 at most for all three pieces of equipment.
JD 318 H3, JD 140 H3, JD 110 RF, CC 124, CC 1250, Farmall A H, 2008 Hustler FasTrak, ’65 Ford Mustang, ’12 Arctic Cat 850i Attachments: 2 Brinly plows, Brinly cultivator, IH 295 1 row planter, JB Sr, Johnson Loader, JD front 540 PTO, 2 JD 46″ Snowblowers, Front blade, Swisher Box Blade, JD 80 Cart.
gburnett
You can use a york rake to rake up hay just use it like an old horse dump rake and for a baler if a person doesn’t have a tractor capable of pulling one you can still find older ones with Wisconsin engines just park the baler and take the hay to it and fork it in.
making hay in small surfaces it’s not easy and can be very tiring i prefer do with a tractor not by hand i try to build a hay rake like you for a walk behind but it’s not easy to do. you must have a good tilt for the rake then. with a 3 points fork i think it will be better for me. i’m interested in a small side delevery hay rake /tedder for a small compact tractor but i never see on internet then i think 2 things : there are not easy to use then nobody bought or it’s good and easy to use but why never seen users videos ? have you advice to use this one
CADplans
making hay in small surfaces it’s not easy and can be very tiring i prefer do with a tractor not by hand i try to build a hay rake like you for a walk behind but it’s not easy to do. you must have a good tilt for the rake then. with a 3 points fork i think it will be better for me. i’m interested in a small side delevery hay rake /tedder for a small compact tractor but i never see on internet then i think 2 things : there are not easy to use then nobody bought or it’s good and easy to use but why never seen users videos ? have you advice to use this one
Do you have a front blade for your tractor? Front is better than rear, because you move the hay before you run it over with the tractor.
Here is what I built for my front blade. I only used right angle steel and side delivery teeth.
I only spent about 25 euros on it. :fing32:
nicofarm
yes of course ! you use flexible teeth and not rigid me i do with teeth from a old fork and thats doesn’t work. and i don’t know where i can found flexible teeth like you with a 3 points fork i think it will be better for me and ride in reverse. i don’t know ih tractor 584 ? we have also ih tractor here like you but i never seen a 584 how horse power is it ?
Built well enough for everyday agricultural use, this mini-baler produces a 40 to 60 pound (depending on moisture of hay and how tight you roll it) bale measuring 21′ x 23″, every 60 seconds or so with maximum size windrow. Bales are formed by a series of chain-driven patented aluminum rollers around the circumference of the bale chamber no belts or bands to dry-rot or need adjustment. Chains are automatically oiled during operation, and much heavier-duty than you would think necessary, no more power than these little tractors have… but that’s a good representation of how CAEB over-builds this thing. The Baler forms “soft-core” bales which allows air to circulate through the bale center while the outside of the bale is rolled tight to shed moisture if left outside. Bales are wrapped with a self-sticking UV resistant nylon net-wrap OR a biodegradable netting upon request.
The number of bales you can make on one roll of net-wrap varies according to the “lap” setting you choose on the Baler: The most common is the “2.5 lap” setting, which will do about 425 – 450 bales and results in a nice, durable bale… but if you’re not handling the bales much and really want to conserve the netting, the “1.5 lap” setting will get you about 700 bales per roll.
An indicator on the side of the machine tells the operator when the bale is fully formed, at which point the operator pulls a lever which trips the net-wrapping, wrap cutting and chamber opening cycle. The operator then sets the bale out of the chamber, closes the chamber, and resumes baling. As with the hayrake/ted der, the front wheels steer to guide the machine with a steering rod that comes out to the operator. This baler will bale hay, leaves, and even pine needles as long as the material is dry (green hay can be made into silage using the CAEB Bale Wrapper). Baler comes with one roll of net-wrap, automatic chain oiler, parking brake and male a quick-coupling built into the PTO hookup flange. Requires tractor be equipped with female quick-coupling.
The price is ridiculous for this little hay baler. I went to look at it on that site expecting it to be maybe 3000-4000. When I saw they want 8500 I nearly flipped off my chair. :Stop: