Today, after another argument. which side to put the disk on "Angle Grinder". I decided to speak on this subject in writing, even so in my opinion this question is quite interesting.
And also in the future, than once again to breed demagoguery, it is better to just throw a link to this entry.
I work in a workshop (mainly a power tool) and I see that quite often they wear an angle grinder with "jammed" disks. It sometimes gets stuck so much that you have to disassemble the gearbox and hold the pinion gear in a vice to unscrew the nut with a healthy gas wrench.
It is interesting that the nuts are stuck only on machines with a disc mounted to the right, i.e. "sparked" from the typewriter. If we take into account that under the NORMAL load the moment on the spindle is small, then such a bad self-tightening should not happen, and it happens, why? Due to shock loads, which when installing the disc on the right is generally common.
Why this happens is easier to explain with such an example (too lazy to draw). we start the motorcycle, and, holding it behind the wheel, we try to arrange the slipping of the driving (rear) wheel.
Now how will it be if the disk is on the left and "sparks" under the grinder:
We take the front-wheel drive motorcycle, start it naturally, switch on the gear and, holding the trunk, we admire how the front wheel is wonderfully skidding. It is TOWING (in the analogy it cuts) and not "drives in" under the fulcrum, increasing traction and trying to raise the steering wheel, as with rear-wheel drive.
That is, it turns out that as a system "front wheel drive option" more stable and predictable, even if we press the steering wheel from above.
Well, something like that. Maybe idiotic, but figuratively.
I cut a couple of months ago, a rail sticking out under the ceiling, cut one, standing on a stool, a hefty 2.2 kW angle grinder, and also with the protective cover removed (with it, well, nothing at all!).
If only I cut "push". I’d kill myself. and more than once.
I think the author is most likely interested in the question, "which side to put the disc on the angle grinder (angle grinder)?" which interests many.
Regarding the algorithm of actions to replace the disk, questions rarely arise, here everything is called everything in sight. a special key or gas key and forth. It is also difficult to miss the size of the disk, here the casing dimensions are just a criterion. An important parameter is the number of revolutions indicated on the disk, here it is necessary to select, in accordance with the manual, the angle grinder, the disk of which revolutions can be operated on it (the revolutions indicated on the disk must be either equal to or greater than the spindle revolutions, but in no case smaller!)
I won’t talk about cup-shaped disks. you won’t put them in any other way. Diamond blades and blades for cutting stone from carbide have a direction of rotation or a pronounced tooth profile, in addition, they have a metal base. and it is metal on both sides.
But which direction to put the cutting disc label on when installing, not everyone knows. out or to the gearbox with a piece of paper.
Some are simply convinced that there is no difference. But this is not so. The disc is always labeled out. Yes, someone will say that the direction of rotation of the disc is not regulated by a strictly drawn arrow, almost always this arrow does not exist, at least on abrasive discs (detachable) and will also be right.
The point is different, the arrow is not needed, at least for the following several logical conclusions.
A wide metal washer is installed on the label side. That’s it, and it should be facing the movable flange nut, that is, outward (even if the disc is without a label). When jamming and breaking the disc, the movable nut will be easier to unscrew if it slides on a metal washer. If you put the disc on the contrary (with a washer to the gearbox), then on the abrasive part the movable outer nut will be very difficult to turn away.
In connection with this seemingly obvious thing, the structure of some cutting discs is being carried out. They are less prone to kink (and wear), if installed correctly, with the label facing out (respectively, with a wide washer to the clamped nut and not toward the gearbox)
P.S. Well, by all means, to all of the above, to work you need to arm yourself with a suit of dense fabric (I have a tarpaulin apron for these purposes) and safety glasses!
Disks for an angle grinder differ among themselves according to the following main signs:
- Outside diameter;
- Disc thickness;
- The material of which the disc itself is made;
- The characteristic of maximum rotation speed;
- And, of course, the area of proposed work.
For the best understanding, let’s look at the main types of disks for an angle grinder and give a definition of their application:
- Cutting wheels. These are the most widely used consumables for angle grinder. Their main purpose is to work with metal, stone and wood. A variety of cutting wheels for an angle grinder are diamond blades. This is a heavy-duty tool for processing materials of increased strength, such as reinforced concrete, tile, porcelain tile, marble.
- Grinding and grinding wheels. As the name implies, this type of disc is used for grinding various materials, for example, polishing products made of stone, or for removing (peeling) the top layer, for example, eliminating a layer of rust or old paint coating.
Cutting wheel 115 x 1.6 x 22.23 Titanium Abrasive
Cutting wheels for an angle grinder, in turn, have their subspecies, such as:
- Cutting wheels for metal work;
- Abrasive wheels for working with stone;
- Circles for woodwork;
- Diamond blades (mentioned above).
The purpose of each type of drive usually corresponds to its name.
Among the grinding disks, there are four main subtypes. lobed, wire, diamond and grinding disks on a bakelite basis (straight lines, T41 profile and disk-shaped, T27 profile).
Grinding wheel 150 x 6.0 x 22.23 Sprut-A
- The petal disc is made of sandpaper. Its main purpose is to eliminate an existing coating, such as old paint, a primer or a coat of paint. Also, disks of this type are polished wooden products.
- Wire discs are used by craftsmen to remove rust. They can also remove other types of persistent pollution.
- Diamond blades are used for stone polishing.
- Plate discs are made of plastic or rubber and used to polish metal surfaces.
Please note: in the process of work with most discs, a special paste or grease is used, which contains finely ground abrasives. They are mainly used when grinding surfaces, such as, for example, car body parts.
The main question: How to choose the right disk for an angle grinder?
When choosing equipment for angle grinders, first of all, you should decide on the type of proposed work. The choice of the type of disk will depend on this. We also want to mention that when choosing a consumable, be sure to consider the power characteristics of each specific model. Read the labeling. Often, it is applied to the disc itself and includes a set of characters by which you can determine the relevance of a given consumption to carry out the intended work.
Also, focus your attention on such a parameter as the diameter of the disk. In no case should it exceed the size of the protective cover on a specific model of the tool. The size range of discs is usually represented by the following diameters: 115, 125, 150, 180 and 230 mm. The most common diameters are 125 mm. and 230 mm. They are optimal for most types of work and the capabilities of the tool itself.
Among the Bakelite-based grinding discs, the most popular are 6.00 mm thick discs. This parameter depends on the total disk diameter. The dependence is as follows: the larger the diameter of the disk, the greater its thickness and vice versa.
How to put the disc on the angle grinder?
To correctly place the disk on the angle grinder, it is first worth noting that the disk is mounted on the spindle of the angle grinder using a special clamping flange with M14 thread. Let’s take a closer look at how to remove a disc from an angle grinder. In order to unscrew the disk from the angle grinder, you first need to dismantle the flange. Especially for such purposes, manufacturers complete the angle grinder with a special open-end wrench. It has a specific shape. The pins located on the horns of this key are inserted into specially provided holes on the flange.
To unscrew the flange, we fix the spindle. To do this, we clamp the latch, which is usually a button on the top of the case. When pressed, the cotter pin is placed in the hole of the driven disk of the gearbox, and this, in turn, prevents its rotation. Next, insert the key pins into the specially provided holes on the flange, pressing the latch must be simultaneously turned counterclockwise and move the flange in place. If the manipulations were successful and the flange succumbed, you can unscrew it by hand and put it aside.
Now dismantle the disk. Often, in the process of intensive work with the tool on the inner side of the protective casing, a certain coating forms from small particles of metal and abrasive material. For optimal, stable and durable operation, an angle grinder, remove the bottom of the flange and clean the casing with a steel brush.
To install a new disk, after cleaning the casing, you must perform the following actions:
Remember that you need to tighten it by no more than a quarter of a turn, since in case of excessive fixation of the flange, the disk will become unusable.
Video: How to Place a Disc Right on an Angle Grinder
After all the actions performed, you can safely continue to do the work.
One of the most frequently asked questions about mounting / dismounting the angle grinder equipment is: “Which side should the disc be placed on the angle grinder?”.
Usually, inexperienced masters ask this question. Is it possible to set the circle on the wrong side. yes. Firstly, if the disk is not flat, but, for example, petal, then you will not be able to install it incorrectly, if the petals are not located correctly, simply twist the casing and handle onto the angle grinder. That is, the question disappears by itself.
If the circle is still flat, then you should focus on its label, the so-called “shirt”.
If the angle grinder rotates on itself, the disk should be installed with a “jacket” outward, if the disk is spinning away from itself, then, accordingly, it must be installed with a “shirt” inward.
If you do not adhere to this algorithm, there is a high probability that the disk will very quickly fail or immediately become deformed.
What to do if the angle grinder has jammed (bitten) a disk?
Everyone who has experience working intensively with an angle grinder must have come across such a situation at least once.
Usually, this happens if the disk clamps between the parts, it stops or breaks, and the engine, the angle grinder continues to rotate and thus tightens the nut irrevocably.
So what can you do if you bit a disk onto an angle grinder?
Each master has his own secrets. Especially for you, we learned a few of them and now we will share the most common ways to get out of the situation.
Method number 1 to remove the disk from the angle grinder
First, figure out which direction to unscrew the nut.
The flange must always be folded in the direction in which the disk rotates.
For this kind of work, you will need either two gas keys or two clamps.
Here’s what you need to do: we destroy the remnants of the disk, with one key we fix the washer located behind the disk, with the second we unscrew the flange.
Method number 2 to remove the disk from the angle grinder
This method involves the use of the famous lubricant VD-40.
It is probably like electrical tape, applicable in all cases of life.
You need to sprinkle the flange, wait about 5 minutes and try to unscrew it with a wrench.
Method number 3 to remove the disk from the angle grinder
This method is used in extreme cases.
Method number 4 to remove the disk from the angle grinder
How to exchange a disk for an angle grinder to avoid disassembling the tool and intensive impact on it? To do this, cut the disk as far as possible, dismantle the protective casing of the angle grinder and remove the rest of the circle with a hacksaw.
When carrying out all the above manipulations, do not forget about safety measures.
Take care of yourself and the safety of your instrument.
Make it a rule that the replacement of cutting and grinding wheels with an angle grinder is carried out in working gloves, and the work itself must be carried out with special safety glasses.
LNA OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
1. The use of the machine, components or accessories is permitted only in accordance with the purpose specified in the instruction manual, taking into account the general working conditions and the nature of the work performed.
2. Do not overload the machine, when performing heavy work, do not use the LNA low power.
3. Wear short work clothes so that they are not caught in the rotating parts of the machine.
4. Use cotton clothing as well as work boots.
5. When working, always adopt a stable body position.
6. When performing grinding work, use left rotation (sparks from yourself).
7. When using the LNA for metal cutting, the particular danger of this type of work should be taken into account; a) use fasteners (vise, clamps, clamps); b) primarily use the right rotation (sparks on yourself); c) cut only lead to the clamp; d) large cut-off parts, should not have obstacles to deviation.
8. Threw. a profile, pipes with a diameter of more than 30 mm., It is not recommended to cut through until it falls off.
Operate the machine in explosive rooms or rooms with a chemically active environment that can destroy metals and insulation.
Operate the machine under the influence of drops and splashes, and also in open areas during rain or snowfall.
Operate the machine without a protective cover that must be installed in such a way as to protect the operator from injury and the machine from ingress of processed products into the ventilation openings.
Use cut-off or grinding wheels with an expired warranty, as well as damaged or causing vibration.
Tighten and twist the cord, as well as subject it to mechanical stress.
Operate the machine when at least one of the following malfunctions occurs; a) damage to the plug, wire or its protective sheath; b) fuzzy operation of the switch;
c) the appearance of smoke or smell characteristic of burning insulation;
d) the appearance of increased noise, knocking, vibration;
e) breakage or cracks in the body parts, the handle;
e) damage to the tool.
Work with ladders.
Recommendations for safe operation with angle grinder
angle grinder (angle grinder or angle grinder) is one of the most traumatic hand tools. The reasons for this:
- high rotation speed (more than 10 thousand revolutions per minute),
- lack of circular protection of the cutting disc by the casing (a sufficiently large part of it is open),
- lack of the possibility of hard mounting of the tool.
The probability of getting injured at any moment is high, but knowing how to work right angle grinder and observing these rules, any woman will successfully cope with angle grinders.
When cutting various materials, an angle grinder to protect the body and respiratory organs will require:
- goggles or face shield, protects eyes from three sides,
- clothes, which should not hang loose so as not to be tightened by a rotating mechanism,
- footwear stable, flat
- gloves thick, better leather,
- respirator to protect the respiratory system if the angle grinder is used to cut stone, porcelain stoneware, ceramic or glass tiles.
Checking tool health and availability
Before how to work an angle grinder, Always check the condition of the tool beforehand:
- correct installation and strength of fastening of the protective cover. It must be firmly fixed and installed so that sparks and pieces of the material being cut do not fly towards the operator;
- the integrity of the cutting disc, the absence of defects on it. Any defect may result in personal injury. If there are breaks, chips, cracks on the cutting blade, it must be replaced with a new one. You should not save on disks when buying cheap Chinese fakes, it is better to purchase brands of reliable manufacturers: Kronomax, BOSH, LugaAbrasiv;
- uniform rotation at idle at maximum spindle speeds for 0.5–1 minutes. Strong vibrations should not be.
Protection of surrounding surfaces from damage and ignition
If the tool is used indoors for cutting water pipes, plastic or finishing materials, before how to work an angle grinder, flammable objects, adjacent walls and floors should be protected from sparks with a dense, damp cloth or asbestos cloth.
Using a special disk for each type of work
Operators get the most frequent injuries when using angle grinders if the disc breaks into pieces or breaks off the spindle. Parts of it can fly out at a tremendous speed along an unpredictable trajectory.
Professionals who know how to work angle grinder safely, pay great attention to the selection of working disks. On each of them the purpose of application is indicated.
- Use discs strictly for their intended purpose. Depending on the purpose of the cutting blade used, select the speed. When cutting tiles or porcelain tiles with a metal disc, material shavings heated above 600 ° C will fly in different directions. The same will happen if the tile is cut at a RPM in excess of 3 thousand. If you cut the iron with a diamond blade, the tool can be pulled out of your hands.
- Do not use the angle grinder in working with wood, even if it saves time. When plywood is cut as a result of overheating, toxic fumes of resins will be released, and if the cutting blade gets on a knot of wood, the car will vomit from the hands.
- Do not place circular saw blades on the angle grinder, even if they fit her perfectly.
- Do not sharpen metal with the side surface of the disc. This will cause it to break and injure the operator.
The correct position of the cut parts of materials
Before how to work an angle grinder, It is necessary to prepare the place and pay special attention to possible interference.
- When cutting metal, it should be remembered that, unlike wood, it practically does not crack until the end of the cut.
- Sawing should always be carried out in the direction of rotation of the disk to break the parts, and not to squeeze them.
- It is dangerous to cut metal, fixed with ends on two supports. At the end of the cut, the tool will be clamped and pulled out of the hands.
- Care should be taken to ensure that there are no distortions, and the cutting plane does not change during operation.
- You do not need to press on the tool when cutting. If work is progressing slowly, replace the cutting element.
Attentiveness and teamwork at work
Any little thing is important in using angle grinders, so recommendations on how to work right angle grinder, should be observed strictly.
- If there is a stone or other solid object under the sawed material that could get under the disk, there will be a strong jerk, breakdown of the machine or injury to the operator. Therefore, it is necessary to exclude such opportunities and be very careful.
- When making cuts of concrete walls, it is recommended that you first verify that there are no reinforcement, hidden pipelines, or electrical wires at the cut site. This can be done with a metal detector and electric detectors.
Correct tool position
- The angle grinder should always be held with two hands.
- The position of the body must be very stable in order to hold the instrument upon impact.
- When cutting the fishing line, the cut should take place to the side, so that if the tool seizes, its movement is on the side of the operator, and not directed at it.
Everything needs a measure. That is, we definitely need some optimum circle thickness for the work being done.
Of course, I can cut anyone and anyone, but the convenience, safety and fatigue are different in different cases.
An angle grinder on a thin wheel is undoubtedly easier, but if you cut the metal thick and for a long cut, then you have less opportunity to lead the wheel exactly along the line. the wheel wobbles strongly and then the thin wheel has more chances to fly apart.
As an example, try to cut a sheet with a thickness of at least 5 mm in a circle of 1 mm F125 at a length of at least 200 mm exactly along the line, and not how it turns out.
Since all the thin circles I meet are also a bit of a plate, the reasons for some withdrawal of the circle from the line are laid initially.
And all your attempts to eliminate the circle’s withdrawal from the line during the cutting process by going back a bit and trying to set the correct cutting direction will result in the circle stubbornly repeating the wrong direction with a noticeable own bend.
With diligence and perseverance, it is not far from the spread of the circle.
For myself, I decided this:
F125 1mm. only for thin metal for a short length, well, or when it comes to it and something thicker short, cut very carefully very thinly without going deep.
An accurate quick cut of a long sheet with a thickness of 2 mm or more for Ф125 I take circles of at least 1.6 to 2.5. they can be manipulated at least in some limits to correct the path.
F125 circles with a thickness of 2.5 can freely cut extended sheets, diving to the gearbox. the most accurate, productive and low-fatigue cutting method (not counting F230mm).
Once I happened to cut the Devolt F125 1000 Watt (a large angle grinder) on a 4-sheet sheet. four cuts of 2.7 meters exactly along the line.
There were 2.5 circles. I put on the gearbox and drove. smartly, only manage to change circles.
And no matter how much time I had to take aim, cut without deepening and without deepening, cut the same with millimeter circles. I would kill it all day, for sure, at least I have neighbors alternately with such a cutter, 2 meters long, three hours were cut.
Similarly, for an angle grinder with a circle of 230, circles with a thickness of less than 2.5 I perceive only in the context of very accurate work with a small immersion of the circle, and not for cutting sheets of tens of meters with immersion to the gearbox.
From you! And even if he rushes out of your hands and flies away from you.
And not just past you, otherwise when jamming your hands, in addition to your will, your path can be corrected by /- 30. 45 degrees and.
The feed should be on its own the circle should, when snacking, pop out of the cut to reduce its depth.
So it turns out the only correct position when cutting horizontal sheets is the circle to the left of the gearbox and lead away from you.
In order to prevent sparks from flying into you, you need to stand a little to the side, and when the sheet is completely cut through, the sparks go down and practically do not interfere with the worker.
In order to completely hide behind the gear and the cover from the possible spread of the circle, you must hold the angle grinder to your left, hold the case with the button with your left hand, and the handle above the gear with your right hand.
In this case, you must first deploy the case with the button in relation to the gearbox 90 degrees for ease of operation (unscrew the 4 screws, turn them without pulling out and tighten the screws).
At least on my ancient F125 Devolte, you need to do this unequivocally, since it does not have a slide button, but a tricky key the same thing needs to be done on large angle grinders.
Well, I consider the acceptable position for cutting horizontal sheets to be also the circle to the left of the gearbox and lead away from myself, but keep the angle grinder to my right in the right hand case with a button, and in the left hand above the gearbox.
I use for short cuts or alternations of cutting with stripping, since this method does not require turning the case with an angle grinder in relation to the gearbox.
The exact opposite is true:
1. Less heartbeat. Centering should be on the metal end and diameter, and not on a clumsy surface.
2. Excludes metal scuffing inside the diameter on the wheel when installing the wheel.
Repeatedly witnessed a wild beating of a circle, the reason for which was the installation of the circle on the wrong side, and even with a seizure fit (the foil is not thick, but was squeezed without looking at the nut).
Now I have become a criterion for professionalism (do not be offended). who put what side of the circle.
3. The circle is freely wrapped and turned away (if there were no blows) without a key for the circle.
All said IMHO. But I highly recommend listening.
Post has been editedChernyshov: 25 May 2009. 14:54