Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening
Sharpening the chainsaw chain with your own hands The chain tooth planes the wood like a plane, and the thickness of the shavings is adjusted by the height of the limiter. Intense sawing results in rapid dullness
Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening
The chain tooth planes the wood like a plane, and the chip thickness is adjusted by the height of the stop.
Intense sawing will quickly dull the chain. Several sharpenings may be required within one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly dulls when it meets the ground. It is enough to hook the soil with the tire once or twice, and the work can be stopped. The shavings become fine and the saw stops going deep into the wood.
The sooner dull teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed during sharpening, as a result. The service life of the saw chain is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is already required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A properly sharpened chain is pulled into the cut with just a little pressure. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to cut by increased feed force, then the teeth are dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if only small chips fly out of the cut instead of coarse, thick chips.
In this situation, the chainsaw must be sharpened urgently. Do not cut with a dull or defective saw chain. The consequence is high stress in the body, high cyclic load, poor cutting results. In addition, this means reduced productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear on all parts of the chainsaw.
Chain teeth parameters
To achieve optimal cutting properties, the tooth blades are angled. The back of the tooth falling back at an angle forms the posterior angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed to cut the upper blade into the wood.
The backward tapering blade of the tooth forms the back angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for side cutting of the chips.
The edge of the end blade forms a rake angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. The rake angles for different types of chains range from 60 ° to 85 °.
The back angle of the top blade refers to the backward tilt of the top blade.
This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, ranges from 50 ° to 60 °. The top blade is the main blade and the back corner of the top blade. This is the most important corner. The clearance angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure, and the correct value is obtained by observing other prescribed values.
The grinding or entering angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.
The sharpening angle can be changed, depending on the application. As a rule of thumb, the larger the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting non-frozen softwood. Reducing the sharpening angle when cutting frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother saw blade and less vibration. However, sharpening angles greater than 35 ° and less than 25 ° should be avoided (except for rip chains, where this angle is 10 °).
The rake angle, sharpening angle and upper blade angle change during sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the chain. Be sure to observe the prescribed values.
A depth gauge is located on each cutting link in front of the tooth blade. The difference in height between the top edge of the depth gauge and the front edge of the back of the tooth is defined as the distance of the depth gauge.
The depth of penetration of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and thus productivity depends on the distance of the depth gauge. The distance of the depth gauge is set depending on the chain pitch and type of execution. Normally, it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, more often 0.6 mm. High values will result in an increased tendency of the chainsaw to kickback, too much grip and chain vibration. Low values lead to a drop in performance. Since the distance of the depth gauge decreases with each sharpening of the saw due to a decrease in the upper edge of the tooth, the depth gauge also needs to be filed periodically. After 5-10 chain sharpenings.
The round file holder has a mowing line that can be correctly positioned in relation to the chain. The holder fits onto the sharpened tooth in accordance with the line orientation. In this case, the insert itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth gauge, and the file is located under the cutting edge.
The use of a holder ensures that the file will fit to the tooth at the correct height. There are different holders for different pitches of the saw chain. The correct choice of holder, combined with the correct file diameter, ensures that the file protrudes over the back of the tooth by 1/5 of its diameter. Use only special saw chain files.
Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, it is advisable to secure the bar. When sharpening, it is necessary, keeping the position of the holder and pressing the file to the sharpened edge, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. Do not try to press too hard on the file, the movements should be smooth and measured. Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are sharpened in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth in one direction, then change the position and do the same with the teeth in the other direction.
When sharpening all teeth, file the same number of strokes at the same pressure. This will result in the same tooth length. All cutting teeth must be of the same length. Different tooth lengths cause uneven chain running and cracking. If the length of the teeth is not the same, all cutting teeth must be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.
After several sharpening of the cutting teeth, the depth gauge is ground. To do this, a template is superimposed on it so that the limiter falls into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slot is grinded with a flat file.
The principle of using another set for sharpening chainsaws is no different from the first, although its design is different.
A round file is also used for sharpening the cutting tooth, and for sharpening the depth gauge. Flat. A special template provides parameters for sharpening both cutting teeth and stops. In the first case, it is superimposed on the chain in such a way that it falls into its slots. The file, placed on the template and brought under the cutting edge, rests on the guide rollers. The direction of movement of the file must be parallel to the lateral edges of the template.
When sewing the stopper, the template is applied so that the stopper falls into the slot, near which it says SOFT (for soft wood) or HARD (for hard wood). As in the case of the first device, the file is seamed with smooth, even movements of the flat file away from you.
The round file is installed in the holder and fixed with special clips. There are several markings on the plane of the holder that indicate a specific sharpening angle. When straightening the chain with a file with a holder, the markings on the device are placed parallel to the chainsaw tire, which allows you to accurately maintain the required angle.
Files and tools
The main one with which the saw tooth is sharpened is round. Flat is used to adjust the height of the cutting depth gauge.
Round ones vary in diameter. The main diameters are:
- 4.0 mm
- 4.8 mm
- 5.2 mm
Depending on the size of the tooth, the optimum diameter must be chosen. To facilitate the process, special file holders or support rollers with a marked tooth sharpening angle can be used.
Sharpening method using electric machines
It is not always possible to use a tool with a template. There are situations when it is necessary to use the machine. They are of two types:
The machines have special functions that make it possible to position the chain at the desired angle. Such a machine is simple enough to use and allows you to correctly correct all parameters of the chain. It takes 2 to 3 movements to fit the parameters of one tooth. To work with the limiter, you need to change the file to a flat file.
The cost of these devices is certainly not low, but with regular use of a chainsaw, this machine will be simply irreplaceable and will pay off over time.
- Allows you to restore the shape of the teeth;
- Fast chain sharpening;
- Product cost;
- Stationary use.
Sharpening method with a file
The most affordable, but long enough way to return the chainsaw to working condition is a file. To find a round file, you need to know the chain size.
- For links with Ø 1.3 – file Ø 4 is required;
- For Ø 1.6 – Ø 5.2.
To sharpen the limiter itself, they resort to using a flat file. In the event that you are going to perform this process for the first time, it is better to hone your skills on cheap copies.
Sharpening is as follows:
- You must first turn on the chain brake, and then fix the saw bar in a vice;
- Attach the sharpening template so that the arrow points to the nose of the tire;
- Make a note from which of the teeth the process was started;
- Follow the directions for the process. Please note that there are factory notches on the teeth, which indicate which sharpening angle is the maximum;
- Limiters are not always sharpened, this is done as needed.
To understand if you need to work with the limiter, focus on the height of the teeth, if it drops, then the limiter will have to be sharpened.
What parameters need to be considered for sharpening a chainsaw chain with a file:
- The pressure during the whole process should be controlled, since the force applied during this should be the same.
- The file should not extend beyond the part of the cutting edge by more than 1/5 of its working surface.
- An equal amount of movement is required for each of the chain links.
- Sharpening movements must be performed in the same direction.
- With teeth that have different heights, you must focus on the one that is lower than all.
- Budgetary way;
- The ability to perform at home;
- No special skills required.
- Takes time and physical activity;
- This method may not always be useful, when changing the shape of the cutting edge, the chain, therefore, cannot be corrected.
How to sharpen a chainsaw correctly
The cutting element of any chainsaw is a chain, but after a certain time or when working with low-quality wood, it tends to become dull. Therefore, sharpening the chainsaw chain is an integral part of the operation of the device.
Sharpening angle grinder
Professionals consider this work to be primitive. There is a risk of tire damage, and more.
Process (seemingly easy, but really difficult)
- The chain also stays on the bus;
- We attach a metal cutting disc with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm to an angle grinder. It is advisable to take not a new one, that is, with a worn edge;
- We put an obstacle in front of the chain and the tire (the chip will come off);
- We sharpen at the right angle;
- Upon completion of work, the chain must be properly tightened.
With a professional approach and a "full hand", the number of sharpenings in this case can be more than 7.
“For a beginner, it’s better not to“ experiment ”with a saw, chain, etc. With your body parts! "
Advantages of the method: Fast, cheap and does not take away energy;
Disadvantages: You need special skills, a steady hand and the ability to comply with safety techniques.
Electric sharpening machines
They are equipped with special adjustment functions to help you position the chain at a certain angle. At the same time, it is possible to accurately and accurately bring the disc to the chain teeth. There are machines equipped with automatic vices. They are switched on when the disc approaches the sharpened edge. Convenience and functionality are certainly high. You can find models at "lifting" prices.
Chainsaw teeth have a specific geometry. You need to understand and know what part of them should be sharpened. In general, the "logic" of cutting wood resembles a plane.
The cutting surface has two edges. One side, the other slightly beveled. The cutting depth limiter adjusts the thickness of the chips. Let’s take a closer look. The elements of the cutting-working link are arranged as follows:
- Base with axle holes;
- Tooth scapula;
- Cutting depth limiter;
- End face of the blade (placement – vertical);
- Upper edge of the blade (placement – horizontal);
Sharpened edge Dull After touching the ground
Do not over-grind or change the location of the links. The normal operation of the instrument depends on the identity of their location. Otherwise, increased stress on the chassis, tire and engine is likely. The cut can be crooked. There is also a small chance of breaking the circuit.