How To Remove Points From An Angle Grinder On Glass

❶ How to get rid of a window on a VAZ 2101

• – glass front doors from the VAZ 2105 or 2107;
• – glass seal from VAZ 2105 or 2107;
• – set of side mirrors;
• – plastic anthers;
• – crude rubber;
• – power windows from the VAZ 2105 or 2107;
• – front guide for glass VAZ 2105 or 2107;
• – metal latches and tips;
• – brackets 4 pcs.;
• – angle grinder or hacksaw for metal;
• – small clamping plates for the cable, which are screwed to the glass bracket. 2 pcs.

Take an angle grinder or hacksaw for metal. Saw off the jumper on which the triangle of the window leaf rests. It is located between the foams inside the door.

Fit the plastic triangle under the mirror. Insert it firmly into the door frame, corner it and fasten it in place with a self-tapping screw, drill a hole in the triangle for it before it. Fasten the self-tapping screw through the hole where the window frame was previously attached.

To make a support for the guide bracket, cut out the plug from the sheet of metal with which to close the window in the armature. Insert the guide into the groove in the triangle. Lay new marigolds in the door frame and in the guides. Cut off the sticking ends.

Install the windows, fix them by drilling two holes in the door fittings. Screw the brackets into the power window bracket, but do not insert the rubber gaskets yet, just try on the glass by inserting it through the frame and completely closing it. Marker on it where the staples are located. Remove the power window bracket, remove the glass.

Cut the raw rubber bands along the length of the staples and lower them for 5 minutes in gasoline to restore the rubber properties. Immediately after that, attach the rubber to the glass according to the marks, and from above install the brackets and, tapping the wooden bar or a mallet with a slack, push them on the glass all the way. Wait half an hour until the rubber dries.

Install the glass through the frame. If this is difficult, slightly open the door foams, carefully so as not to deform them. Set the glass in the upper position and mount the window lifter by screwing it to the brackets on the glass. Fasten the door trim. To prevent it from moving, lock it by screwing the door handle in place. Install a mirror on the triangle and put the cap on the door handle.

• Replacing the window on the VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2103, VAZ 2106

Replacing the window on the VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2103, VAZ 2106

Welcome! A window is a name, you guessed it, is popular (that is, it came from the people), but this glass is called a turning glass, but it was put from the line of cars that were produced at VAZ, only on cars of the Classic family and on Niva cars, but later, they began to remove this glass from Niva and to install instead of it, they already started the usual whole glass.

Note! To replace the window, you will need to stock up with a set of tools in which you will have: Only two screwdrivers, one of which will be cross-shaped, and the other is flat!

• Window replacement
• Additional video clip

How to replace a window, it is also a front pivoting glass on a VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2103, VAZ 2106?

Removal: 1) At the very beginning of the operation, you will need to remove the trim from the car door on which you are going to change the window, this is done so that you can remove the main glass from the car door. (For information on how to remove the casing and the main glass, read the article entitled: “Replacing the side window on a car”)

2) Then when the glass, as well as the lining is removed, pick up a screwdriver and use it to pry off the inner chrome trim of the glass (indicated by the arrow) and then remove it.

3) Then, with the same screwdriver, unscrew the two screws that fasten the car windshield in the upper part and in the side (the screws are indicated by arrows), and when they are unscrewed, remove the upper glass seal (see small photo) afterwards by prying it with a screwdriver and After tilting the pivoting glass, remove it from the car door.

Installation: A new window is installed in its place in the reverse order of removal.

Additional video: If you want to study in more detail how the window is removed from the car, then in this case, check out the video clip that is attached just below:

How to remove the window on the VAZ 2106

• 1) Car glass VAZ 2105;
• 2) Guides VAZ 2105;
• 3) Gum;
• 4) angle grinder;
• 5) screwdriver;
• 6) Corners (it is possible with a rear-view mirror);
• 7) File;
• 8) Pliers.

Buy the car glass VAZ 2105 or 07. This is necessary in order to close the space that is formed as a result of the disappearance of the window. As a result, your windows will become similar to those of a VAZ 2105-07. Remove the window. To do this, you need to unscrew the screw of the rack. Open the door and look at the upper part of the fastening of the window, you will see the desired screw. Use a Phillips screwdriver. After that, it is necessary to cut the stand using an angle grinder. Next, remove the window with the rubber bands. Looking inside the door, you will see the support, which also needs to be removed. Making this an angle grinder is quite difficult, so use a file. At the end of the work, align this area well with the thickness of the glass hole. Otherwise, it will jam. Disassemble the door panel. She rests on the three screws of the door handle and window. Next, bend the guide and remove the glass through the hole at the bottom of the door. Remove the old guides. This can be done with a screwdriver and pliers. To do this, turn the screwdriver over the edges of the guide, and use a pair of pliers to pull it toward you. Then put in new guides. Lower the glass through the top and install it in the grooves of the guide. Be careful, otherwise the windshield may be scratched. Connect a window regulator cable through blocks with a guide. Check up and down windshield. It should be light and without difficulty when moving. Otherwise, you need to change the cable, or check how directly the new glass is set. Assemble the door panel. Now insert the corner. Press it as tightly as possible. Insert the rubber bands into the grooves of the windshield. Lift the glass. Its edge must precisely enter the corner. Now your window is in the past.

Video: How To Remove Points From An Angle Grinder On Glass

• VAZ 2106 speedometer how to disassemble, do-it-yourself repair, video
• Replacement of the fixed and side windows of the rear door of the VAZ 2106

How to get rid of a window on a VAZ 2101-2106

How to get rid of the window on the VAZ 2101-2106.

By popular demand, I give detailed instructions for installing glass from the VAZ 2105 in the "cheap" doors. All of the above applies to both VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2106. they have the same doors. And yet. this is my personal version, which does not claim to be absolutely correct; to do or not to do is up to you.

How to get rid of the window on the VAZ 2101-2106.

By popular demand, I give detailed instructions for installing glass from the VAZ 2105 in the "cheap" doors. All of the above applies to both VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2106. they have the same doors. And yet. this is my personal version, which does not claim to be absolutely correct; to do or not to do is up to you.

Firstly, consumables that need to be purchased in advance: Front door glasses for VAZ 2105/2107 Plastic anthers, metal anther latches and latch tips (usually sold as a set) Velvet ribbons for front doors of a VAZ 2105 Set of mirrors with triangles for a VAZ 2105. Established fit, but I bought a set of mirrors with tinted windows. they are more and more convenient. Such mirrors are also produced with heating and with a turn signal repeater. URAL lever power windows from the glorious city of Sarapul. Not the best option, but I have not seen others on sale yet. The inner front guides of the glasses from VAZ 2105 (from the plastic triangle to the lower position of the glass) 4 short (from VAZ 2105) latch brackets mounted on raw rubber on the glass and the raw rubber itself. Plastic "bugs" for attaching door trim, metal screws.

Step 1: Completely disassemble the door. Dismantling order: Door handle; window handle (removed with a special puller or screwdriver); door handle cover. Door trim (apparently, “bugs” will break, they are disposable). Glass. Slightly; unscrew the bracket holding the cable; lower the glass down. Remove old anther with snaps. Turn the glass inside the door 90 degrees and pull it out with the bracket through the upper slot. Caution! The bracket on the glass will resist, but with some effort, it will crawl into the gap. Unscrew the guide that goes from the window frame to the inside of the door. Unscrew the screws securing the “triangle” of the window to the frame and pull out the entire window unit. Pull old anthers out of the glass frame and out of the rails.

Step 2: Now it’s time to tackle an angle grinder or a hacksaw for metal. The triangle of the window is based on a jumper between the foams of the door. the jumper must be cut flush.

Step 3: We begin the assembly of the new design with the installation of a plastic triangle under the mirror. The triangle is tightly inserted into the frame of the door, cornered and fastened with a self-tapping screw through the bottom hole in the frame, through which the window frame was previously attached. Before screwing up the zipper 1000

Naturally, you need to drill a hole under it in a triangle.

A little tinkering with the front inner rail. The fact is that the “penny” door has a slightly different internal fittings, therefore we have to invent a support for the guide bracket. I cut a plug for a window in the fixture from sheet metal, drilled a hole in the place, and successfully solved this problem. The upper part of the guide has a special tail, which is inserted into the groove on the triangle. Now we insert into the frame of the door and in the guides the new velvet. Cut off the excess.

Step 4: Now, while the glass does not bother us, we will take up the power window. My window regulator is installed by bleaching two holes in the door fittings according to the attached instructions. Installed, secured, connected, checked? We fasten the brackets holding the glass to the power window bracket (so far without rubber gaskets. we are now trying on). Plant a new glass through the frame and seat it in a fully closed position; we bring the power window bracket to the upper point so that the glass fits into the brackets on the bracket and is slightly pressed by them. Armed with a marker writing on glass or a soft pencil, we outline the points on the glass where the brackets should be placed. Then we lower the power window bracket or completely dismantle it. it will interfere very much when we push glass into the door along with the brackets seated on it.

Step 5: Remove the glass and prepare it for final installation. To seat the staples on glass, you will need a wooden mallet or just a heavy block, raw rubber and some gasoline. I also recommend that when buying staples, they are tested for strength: if you are able to bend them with your bare hands, then this junk will never hold the glass in case of the slightest difficulty in lowering it. For a few seconds, we throw ribbons from crude rubber to gasoline cut along the length of the staples. the rubber will become malleable and sticky. Without waiting for the gasoline to dry, we apply the tape to the glass according to the marks, put the bracket on top and roll it with a mallet until it stops. Do not miss the marks. this will cause the glass to skew when lifted.

Let the rubber dry for 20-30 minutes.

Now a difficult moment. we are trying, without turning the door, to erect the glass into place through the frame (from below the reinforcement prevents the large glass from being pushed inside). If it doesn’t climb at all, carefully. push the door foam apart with an improvised tool. Do not overdo it, after excessive dilution, the foams may not return to their original position.

Step 6: The hardest part is behind. We start and seat the glass in the upper position, mount the window in place and screw it to the brackets on the glass. In principle, up to this point it is possible to postpone drilling of holes for fastening the power window, but only if the glass inserted in place does not interfere with this work. In my case, it was very disturbing. I pre-oz 1000 was concerned that I slightly expanded the holes for the mounts to give the mechanism the ability to adjust. We fasten the adjusted mechanism firmly to the fittings (for the sake of confidence, that the connection will not loosen, I put the Grover washers under the bolts). Well, now you can make "bench" test windows. Step 7: Final touches: we extend the window wiring through the technological holes (for this I had to drill holes in the racks, because they are not provided for copecks). I put the door trim on the bugs, but in a somewhat unusual way. Getting bugs, I chose them from the softest polyethylene. I cut off the hooks clinging to the lining, inserted the bugs into the holes intended for them, and drilled a hole in the center of each hole right in the center. Applying the lining and fixing it in the correct position with the screwed door handle, I screwed it onto the bugs on metal screws. Bedbugs from penetrating into their core self-tapping screw “swelled” and tightly bite into their nests. now the fastening of the lining is made at the highest level. It remains only to close the caps of the screws with plastic caps with a tone facing. We put a mirror on the triangle, put on a cap on the door opener.

Now we will critically evaluate the results. Almost certainly, the glass will slightly warp at the moment of passage through the velvet in the triangle. I had to shred it pretty hard to ensure sufficient ease of travel. Attention! The power window is a fairly strong consumer of electricity; it cannot be connected to the first fuse that comes across. Since I have installed wiring from the "luxury" VAZ 2109, my windows are powered by a separate circuit connected via a relay. I recommend the same scheme to be repeated if the standard wiring does not provide for this (and I think that does not provide :). A fly in the ointment does not hurt! The windows that I installed, in case of an increase in the load when lifting the glass, love to bend their armature, or even bend the inner armature of the door. The engine in the left power window (the most frequently used) lived for half a year and at one point refused to open the window. The second engine a month later tossed a little more cocoa. refused to close the open window in the cold. 20 at night. Having been disassembled, the engine extremely surprised me with the absence of any kind of lubrication in the bearings, and most importantly (and this is the reason for the failure). the magnetic sleeve collapsed into small pieces. Among other things, the case, which should be leakproof, managed to rust from the inside, and together with the debris of the magnet, I poured out a bunch of rusty dust and some metal shavings from the disassembled engine. Having found one of the leaders on the site of the general dealer of Ural-Auto, I entered into correspondence. I was immediately informed that I was the most unlucky consumer in the territory of the former USSR, since I simultaneously got gear racks made of defective sheet and defective engines, but they did not and therefore were not to blame. And in general. they are for quality and for the worldwide friendship of people. In short, they are good people, but this is of little use to me. Resigned to getting another 100 bucks, I bought a new kit and the first thing I took it apart. What I saw inspired hope. no foreign bodies were found in the engine housing, the gear rack is made of another metal. Everything is covered with a thick layer of solid oil. Let’s see how many of these pass.