How to Sharpen a Cross Hacksaw Wood

How to Sharpen a Cross Hacksaw Wood

During various work with wood, an instrument such as a hacksaw is actively used. Over time, the cutting surface of the tool wears out, and the process of sawing wood becomes more difficult. Wear of the working edge is as follows:

  • the pointed tips of the teeth are rounded;
  • their side cutting edges are blunted.

As a result, the tool loses functionality and needs to be sharpened.

How to determine the moment when the hacksaw needs sharpening?

People with great experience can easily determine this moment to the sound made by the instrument during work, as well as by changing the color of the teeth. Beginners need to focus on the following signs:

  • work with a hacksaw becomes difficult and requires great physical effort;
  • it becomes very difficult to make a perpendicular cut of wood;
  • it becomes difficult to keep the canvas in line during operation, it begins to deviate in different directions;
  • the hacksaw blade often wedges.

Tooth setting

The layout of the saw is the deviation of the tops of the teeth from the plane of the blade. The teeth through one deflect in different directions: the odd ones in one direction, the even ones in the other.

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You need to know that the quality of the wiring quite strongly affects the sawing process. Therefore, all the teeth should be bent in different directions alternately by the same amount, otherwise:

  • if some teeth are deflected by a larger angle than the others, then they will interfere with the movement of the tool and wear out faster;
  • if the deviation is less than necessary, then the cut width will not allow the blade to move freely.

For wiring the teeth of the saw, a special tool is used. wiring. The simplest wiring looks like a small metal plate with a handle. It has a slot, the width of which is slightly larger than the thickness of the hacksaw blade.
Tooth breeding is as follows:

Video: How to Sharpen a Cross Hacksaw Wood


  • the saw is clamped in a vice so that the jaws of the vice end at the base of the teeth;
  • then the teeth are alternately placed in the slot of the wiring and, bending in the middle part, are taken to the side by a predetermined angle;
  • periodically, the quality of the wiring is checked visually or using a caliper;
  • to check the quality of the wiring, the jaws of the vice are pushed apart to the width of the wiring and the saw is pulled between them (while the excessive bending of any tooth will not allow the blade to move freely between the jaws).
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Checking the height of the hacksaw teeth

  • a sheet of paper is laid on a flat and smooth surface and the saw is pressed tightly against it;
  • the profile is clearly printed on paper and the teeth become clearly visible;
  • if higher teeth are found in comparison with the rest, then the saw is clamped in a vice and they are shortened to the desired height with a flat file.

Hacksaw sharpening

  • vise;
  • hammer;
  • calipers;
  • pliers;
  • emery bar;
  • emery cloth.

Also in the arsenal you must have the following types of files:

  • flat and rhombic with a medium-sized notch;
  • triangular file;
  • triangular with a velvet notch;
  • files with notches of different caliber.

For sharpening use a special device that allows you to fix the canvas at angles of 45 and 90 degrees.
If you need to sharpen the transverse hacksaw, proceed as follows:

  • the canvas is fixed at an angle of 45 degrees;
  • sharpening is done with a trihedral file with an angle at the top of 60 degrees;
  • the file is sent to the hacksaw tooth at an angle of 60 to 75 degrees;
  • first, the left sides of the odd teeth are processed with a few movements of the file;
  • after that, the hacksaw is turned over and the left sides of the even teeth are processed.
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When sharpening a longitudinal hacksaw, proceed as follows:

  • the canvas is fixed vertically;
  • for sharpening, a rhombic file with a small notch is used (files can be used);
  • during sharpening, the file is sent strictly parallel to the table;
  • otherwise the process is similar to the previous one.

The burrs appearing on the edges of the teeth must be removed using an emery bar or a file with a velvet notch.

The process of sharpening a saw for the first time is quite difficult, so it is better to carry it out in complete silence and with maximum concentration. It is worth doing this several times, and then the matter will become familiar and will go “like clockwork”.