Sign up save!
Join our email list today and get 10 off your first order of 150 or more! Stay up-to-date on the hottest deals, the newest sales events, and the latest products.
Looking for the model and serial number identification tag on your John Deere? If so, keep reading. The following is a list of John Deere riding mower identification tag locations.
Please note: We are not an authorized OEM John Deere parts dealer, but we can offer you some aftermarket John Deere parts at a considerable cost savings from the original parts to help you save money.
Engine parts: We can provide OEM and aftermarket parts for Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, Tecumseh and other engine manufacturers, however, some model numbers are “locked” out by John Deere.- meaning that you have to be a dealer to look up these engines. If you can provide a part number, we can do our best to provide the original engine part or an aftermarket alternative. For more information, please visit our small engine parts page.
Finding the Model and Serial Numbers on a John Deere Riding Mower
As you can see above, one of the best places to find the location of the model and serial number on your John Deere riding mower is to stand behind it. Lean down and look just to the right of the left tire. One of the most common locations is on the lower part of the frame. Please use the gray arrows above as a reference.
Looking for the model and serial number identification tag on your John Deere? If so, keep reading. The following is a list of John Deere riding mower identification tag locations.
Please note: We are not an authorized OEM John Deere parts dealer, but we can offer you some aftermarket John Deere parts at a considerable cost savings from the original parts to help you save money.
Engine parts: We can provide OEM and aftermarket parts for Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, Tecumseh and other engine manufacturers, however, some model numbers are “locked” out by John Deere.- meaning that you have to be a dealer to look up these engines. If you can provide a part number, we can do our best to provide the original engine part or an aftermarket alternative. For more information, please visit our small engine parts page.
Finding the Model and Serial Numbers on a John Deere Riding Mower
John Deere Riding Mower Model and Serial Number Location 1
John Deere Riding Mower Model and Serial Number Location 2
As you can see above, one of the best places to find the location of the model and serial number on your John Deere riding mower is to stand behind it. Lean down and look just to the right of the left tire. One of the most common locations is on the lower part of the frame. Please use the gray arrows above as a reference.
How to Start a John Deere Lawnmower, Step by Step
John Deere is one of the most popular brands of tractor-type lawnmowers. Their trademark green-yellow lawn tractors are suitable for small, medium, and big yards because they range from 18 horsepower to 450 horsepower. The company has an ever-increasing and wide base of customers. Some new lawnmower owners are not experts and are unaware of various lawnmower procedures-as basic as how to start the mower. If you are a new owner of a John Deere lawnmower and don’t know how to start it, or even an older owner who doubts about the correct starting procedure, this blog will help you. It will cover the needed steps on how to start a John Deere lawnmower correctly.
How to start a John Deere lawnmower, step by step:
- Step 1: Prestart checks
- Step 2: Push the brake pedal and unlock the mower’s parking brake
- Step 3: Move the throttle lever into the choke position for a cold mower or half-speed position for a warm mower
- Step 4: Turn and hold the key to the start position for 5 seconds
- Step 5: After the engine starts, let the key run to its initial position
- Step 6: Let the engine run at half speed before you start operating the mower
There are various models of John Deere lawn tractors and riding mowers, but the starting procedure for all of them is almost the same, except for slightly different locations of components and parts. You can get accurate info about these locations from the manufacturer’s manual or the tractor body’s labels.
The starting procedure of a John Deere lawnmower is quite simple and can be performed in some minutes. Turning the engine off after you’re done mowing is equally important, and we’ll teach you that too. So, before further ado, let’s get into the details.
Starting Procedure of a John Deere Lawnmower/Lawn-tractor, Step by Step:
Starting a John Deere lawnmower is not difficult. All you need to do is to follow six easy steps. Before you start with the actual procedure, keep the following important things in mind:
- Start the mower in an appropriate area: We recommend you never start your John Deere lawnmower in a closed space, such as a garage or a shed where the fumes can’t escape. The engine exhaust fumes contain toxic gases such as carbon monoxide, which is so dangerous that it can cause severe injury or even death if inhaled in an enclosed space. So, start the mower in an outdoor area, or open up the doors and Windows if you intend to start it in the garage. If you cannot create adequate ventilation for the exhaust fumes in your garage, attach a pipe extension to the exhaust and run it outside. This way, the fumes will be directed away from you.
- Sit in the seat: You need to be sitting in the seat facing the tractor’s front for starting it. This step may sound “too obvious,” but it is a must-do step. This is because the new models of John Deere tractors are equipped with safety switches that won’t let the engine start unless an operator is sitting in the seat.
With these two things ensured, proceed to the starting procedure.
Step 1: Prestart checks
Before you should start your John Deere lawnmower, you should do some prestart checks. They involve checking the oil level, gas level and see if the blades are ok. Check that the blades are sharp and there are is visible damage. If all is ok, you can put the key in the ignitions slot. Often it is located on the right side of the steering wheel. Locate the slot and put the key into the slot, but don’t turn it in just yet. Turning the ignition key basically turns the ignition switch on, allowing current from the battery to start running through the ignition system. When you insert the key, it will be in the stop position; let it be in this position.
Step 2: Push the brake pedal and unlock the mower’s parking brake
The brake pedal could be located on the left or right side of your lawnmower, depending on your own particular model. Put your foot on the brake pedal and push it all the way down, and hold it there. With the brake pedal fully pushed down, push the parking brake lever to unlock the brake. The parking brake lever is often located below the ignition.
Step 3: Move the throttle lever into choke position for a cold mower or half-speed position for a warm mower
The throttle lever is positioned to the left side of the steering wheel. Locate the throttle lever. If your engine is cold, put the throttle lever in the cold start (choke) position. If you are starting an already warm engine, move the throttle lever to the half-speed position.
Keep in mind that your John Deere lawnmower might have a choke knob instead of a choke position. In this case, put the throttle in the half-speed position, then pull out the choke knob.
Step 4: Turn and hold the key to the start position for 5 seconds
The next step is to turn the key all the way to the right (start position). Hold it in the turned position for five seconds, no longer. Release the key when the engine is starting.
If your engine does not start with one turn of the key, wait for around ten seconds, then turn and hold the key like before, and release it after no longer than five seconds. Repeat this procedure until your engine starts. A healthy engine with adequate fuel will start up on the first or second try.
Keep in mind that holding the key at the start position for more than five seconds can damage the starter. So, be careful in this process.
Step 5: Let the key run to its initial position
Your engine will start running when the key is in the start position. Once the engine starts, let go of the key. The key will automatically return to the run position.
On the ignition switch, the run position is located to the immediate left of the start position. The key will stay in the run position as long as your John Deere lawnmower is running.
Step 6: Let the engine run at half speed
The mower needs to warm up properly before it starts operating. So, let the engine idle for around two minutes before you start operating the mower.
Don’t let the engine idle for more than 2 minutes. If you are operating the mower and need to take a break longer than 2 minutes, turn the mower off instead of letting it idle. Turn it on when you are ready to operate it again.
With the engine started and the John Deere mower running, we hope you have a good time mowing the yard. Once you are done with the mowing, you need to turn the mower off too. In the next section, we’ll show you how to turn off a John Deere lawnmower.
Turning off Procedure of a John Deere Lawnmower/Lawn-tractor, Step by Step:
Follow the steps given below to turn off your John Deere lawnmower:
Step 1: Move the throttle into the slow position
The first step is to move the throttle lever down to the slow position and let your mower idle at this speed for around 30 seconds. If you don’t perform this step before turning the engine off, unburnt fuel will stay in the engine. When the engine idles at a slow speed for half a minute, the engine’s amount of unburnt fuel is considerably minimized. Ensure that your mower is parked in an area with proper ventilation while it idles at a slow speed.
Step 2: Turn the key to the stop position
The next step is to turn the key all the way to the left. With the key in the stop position, you’ll hear the engine turning off.
Step 3: Engage the parking brake
Push the brake pedal all the way down and hold it in this position. With the brake pedal compressed, pull up the parking brake lever to lock the parking brake.
Once the parking brake is locked, take your foot off the brake pedal.
Step 4: Remove the key
Once the mower is successfully turned off, remove the key from the ignition slot. Keep the key in a safe place.
John Deere Mower Starting Problems:
John Deere mowers are very reliable, but even the best machines can run into trouble. It is always possible that your John Deere lawnmower does not normally start because of several reasons. Most of these issues are not too serious and can be fixed by the user. This blog contains many step-by-step articles on how to deal with these problems.
Battery terminals corroded Loose or damaged wiring Faulty starter (motor and/or solenoid) Weak/dead battery
Faulty spark plug Dirty air filter Dirty fuel filter Weak/dead battery Bad gas A faulty or dirty carburetor Misadjusted engine valves Temperature below 0 o C (32 o F)
The issues mentioned in the table are pretty common for all lawnmowers. The best way to deal with these issues is to avoid them with regular maintenance of your John Deere lawnmower. You can consult the manufacturer’s manual to learn all the maintenance routines to keep your mower healthy. Maintenance increases both the performance and life of machines.
Final Remarks:
It is common for new lawnmower owners to get confused about the starting and turning off procedure. If you are a new John Deere mower owner, it is time for your confusion to go away. The guidelines provided in this blog post will help you with the starting and turning off procedures. After performing these procedures two or three times, you’ll begin to remember them and won’t need to refer to the instructions anymore. To ensure that your John Deere mower starts up and runs smoothly, perform regular maintenance.
About Us
This blog is written by a group of Garden Tool enthusiasts. Together we put a lot of effort into the maintenance of our gardens over the last few years, we become obsessed with it. Nearly every weekend you will find us doing small or big jobs or just enjoying our garden. We like to help other people maintaining their garden and find cool products to write about.
LEGAL INFORMATION
This site is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. We are compensated for referring traffic and business to Amazon and other companies linked to on this site.
What Is the John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor?
Built in Greeneville, Tennessee, the S130 marks the point of separation between entry-level and premium John Deere 100-series lawn tractors. It uses the same 42-inch Edge mower deck as the S100 and S120 models but boasts numerous performance and convenience upgrades found on the S140 and higher models, such as:
- 724-cc, 22-HP Briggs Stratton 44 V-twin gas engine
- TLT 200 hydrostatic transaxle
- Single-lever throttle with spring return choke
- Electric blade engagement
- Dash-mounted fuel gauge
- 20 x 10.0-8 rear tires
- John Deere Easy Change 30-second oil change system
The powerful engine with a full-pressure lubrication system, 12-gauge solid steel frame, solid cast-iron front axle, and many other quality construction details indicates that this machine is built for decades of dependable service. John Deere S130 attachments include both branded and universal implements, like baggers, snow blowers, dump carts, and many others (sold separately) that expand its capabilities well beyond summertime and mowing.
How Comfortable Is this John Deere Lawn Tractor?
Immediately after accepting delivery, I couldn’t resist taking the S130 for a quick drive around the yard at dusk. A few details stood out immediately. First, sitting on the mower provides a high vantage point. At 32 inches above ground level, the seat base was 3 inches higher than my old lawn tractor. And the seat itself is made in two sections, the bottom and the backrest with a small space between rather than a one-piece molded seat. The configuration allowed for good ventilation, and I found it to be quite comfortable.
Regarding the controls and startup, the S130 has a convenient layout. The easy-to-read fuel gauge, parking brake, single-lever spring-assisted choke and throttle, electric push-switches for blade engagement and mowing in reverse, and the ignition are all located in the dashboard cluster around the steering wheel. The ergonomic spring-assisted deck lift lever is located on the mower frame to the right side of the seat. On the floorboard, side-by-side forward and reverse pedals are located on the right and the brake pedal on the left. The fuel tank fill cap is located beneath the seat where it is very easy to access, rather than being tucked under the hood as in many other lawn tractors.
A few more features stood out as I drove around the yard. The hydrostatic transmission operates quietly, with almost none of the typical whining noise. The large 20×10 tires, both taller and wider than those on other lawn tractors, provided excellent cushion to smooth out the bumps. Also, where other lawn tractors skid their front wheels around the tightest turns, the S130’s front wheels tracked extremely well to deliver tight, articulate turns. Finally, the headlights were super bright and effective working in near-dark conditions.
How Powerful Is the John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor?
Most 42-inch riding mowers are built with engines rated between 17 and 20 horsepower, so the S130’s 22 horsepower exceeds expectations. Testing coincided with my yearly extra-low mow to remove the excess brown foliage on my warm-season grass as the new growth started pushing out. The extra horsepower prevented the blades from bogging down, allowing the mower to proceed at a normal pace.
Also during the test period, I was working on a project that required hauling a dozen 60-pound bags of concrete to the back corner of the yard, for a total weight of 720 pounds. The maximum tongue weight for this lawn tractor is 443 pounds, and my route included a few upward slopes. I attached my garden trailer via the S130’s drop pin hitch and loaded a 360-pound load, stacking the bags just forward of the trailer axle where they would transfer downward pressure onto the rear wheels of the mower. The result was mixed.
Although there were no symptoms that the weight was too much for the engine, the tires lost traction in a couple of the steep spots so that I had to push the weight farther forward to complete the run. It is worth noting that the manufacturer instructs owners not to mow on slopes greater than 13 degrees (about 4.5 feet in elevation change in 20 linear feet) to avoid accidents and injuries. The wider than average tires increase surface contact but reduce pounds per square inch, which is a great formula for protecting grass but not the best for grip. For snow removal, I would recommend purchasing rear weights and tire chains for best performance.
Is the John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor Worth the Money?
At an MSRP of 6500,399, the John Deere S130 is priced as much as 500 higher than other 42-inch ride-on mowers from top brands at nationwide retailers. However, a long list of features on the S130, like the hydrostatic transaxle, 22-horsepower V-twin engine, heavy-duty steel frame, large rear tires, electric blade engagement system, and more place it in lonely territory at the top of the list. This lawn tractor is built for decades of dependable hard work, year round. Compared to competitors’ products, it appears to be fairly priced for premium equipment.
If the lowest price is your number one concern or if your property is much less than a half-acre, then the John Deere S130 may not be the best fit. It may not be the right choice for properties larger than 2 or 3 acres, or where steep hills present a challenge. But for shoppers with 0.5 to 2 acres who are looking for power, durability, versatility, comfort, and overall performance at a fair price, this lawn tractor should be a top contender.
Two of John Deere’s closest competitors in this category are the Cub Cadet XT1 LT46 (6500,399), and the Husqvarna YTH22V46 (6500,299). While the Husqvarna beats the S130 price by 100, John Deere covers the 100 difference with added comfort and performance. Both Husqvarna and Cub Cadet boast similar 22-horsepower engines and larger 46-inch decks, but the S130 has a higher vantage point, tighter turning, and larger rear tires for a smoother ride. Additionally, John Deere’s 30-second oil change system is a game changer for routine maintenance. From my experience with the S130, I am convinced that it would be a great choice.
John Deere
Our promise. We provide a buying advantage with verified reviews and unbiased editorial research.
A link has directed you to this review. Its location on this page may change next time you visit.
How do I know I can trust these reviews about John Deere?
- 4,237,974 reviews on ConsumerAffairs are verified.
- We require contact information to ensure our reviewers are real.
- We use intelligent software that helps us maintain the integrity of reviews.
- Our moderators read all reviews to verify quality and helpfulness.
I purchased a John Deere Z mower Z330M on 03/16/2023 from Lowe’s in Monroe, Mi. After one month and two days the switch to engage the mower blades failed. I contacted John Deere and they placed me in touch with a service Representative and it would be repaired at no cost to me. The dealer charges a 100 pick up and delivery fee and John deere states that I am responsible for this cost even though the mower is only 32 days old. If you need a z-mower I recommend looking for a company that fully stands behind its product.
Helpful 2 people found this review helpful
I have a JD L120 lawn tractor with only 240 hours. I use it mainly to mow lawn and occasionally to pull loads with a lawn cart. Now the transaxle is going bad. I realize this is an older unit but it has very low hours. Nowhere did it say in the manual not to pull heavy loads with it. Very disappointed.
Helpful 8 people found this review helpful
Thank you, you have successfully subscribed to our newsletter! Enjoy reading our tips and recommendations.
Mower delivered from Lowes, worked 20 minutes then died. JD said to contact Lowe’s. It is their responsibility or else I can take it to a service center, they can’t help me. They also told me to check battery and spark plug. They may be dead? WTF on a brand new mower? Customer service is beyond pathetic, now trying to deal with Lowes. As of now it is sitting in my front yard. Yes, it has gas and oil. What used to be a great American company is now a joke. No wonder China is eating our lunch.
Helpful 13 people found this review helpful
Bought a John Deere riding mower in August 2020. The day it was delivered the engine seized up. Took 4 weeks to replace and by the time we got it back, we were past the ‘return’ period so when it came back and wouldn’t cut in reverse, we were SOL. Fast forward 2 years later with just 16.8 hours on the mower in total and the transmission breaks. Not covered by warranty because a small stick broke the drive belt, which then caused another issue. A small stick. So you’re telling that the big bad John Deere tractors we grew up hearing about being so tough can’t handle a stick? Cost 450,000 to fix an 1800 mower. So disappointed in the experience I’ve had with John Deere’s products. Selling the mower to mitigate my losses and avoid future expenses and going with a Cub Cadet or something. Anything else.
Helpful 9 people found this review helpful
Recently lawn mower die while running and upon taking to dealership… they came up with the excuse that due to bad fuel … carburettor went bad and charge so much money… even it’s under warranty…please think of warranty before buying John Deere equipment… they don’t cove 90% stuff …
Helpful 9 people found this review helpful
This mower is the most finicky piece of yard equipment I ever owned. The steering is horrible, the shifter combined with the reverse button and lack of steering capability make you feel like your in a nascar race banging gears every time you need to turn around. The cut quality is garbage. And forget about replacing parts. You can’t find them. The D105 is the red headed stepchild of John Deere products. A complete waste of money. Oh and the resale value is 0. That’s correct. I can’t even get a dealer to take it on trade. Worthless!
Helpful 4 people found this review helpful
Paid over 3k for a zero turn mower less than two years ago and I am unable to even find a deck belt for it! Their home office was no help as there is no way for them to tell when or if the part will be available.
Helpful 8 people found this review helpful
STAY AWAY! We had great service when we went there to purchase our tractor with nine attachments and a farm boss chainsaw. The chainsaw never worked from the start and it had a broken trigger. I took it in to get repaired via the warranty. It took them over a month to repair the chainsaw, and that was only because I called to inquire why it took so long; they told me it would be a couple days. When I picked it up there was nothing said to me. A few weeks later we were called for the bill of the never working, broken trigger.
We were able to clear that one up with no issues. Then we set up the warranty work of our tractor which we were told that it was part of the contract. However, that was not the case. You get a 10 year warranty, but in order to have that warranty valid you have to get an annual inspection done to the tune of 301 plus. During this inspection, the mechanic found an item that was needing to be fixed that was a warranty item. Instead of fixing it on the spot we were told it needed to be scheduled at a later date.
We called to scheduled the warranty work, and I later received a call to actually set it up. The lady wanted a credit card to do the work, but when I mentioned that it was warranty work she put me on hold and came back with the fact that it was indeed under warranty and did not need a credit card because it was covered. The repairman came out and did the repair and left without anything being said about any bill.
Fast forward seven weeks later and we get a call that we owe money because of the warranty work. When asked why, the guy came up with the fact that the labor and parts were covered and it was a trip charge. However, he totally skipped past the fact that the service person did not perform the repair when he found the discrepancy. We received the itemized bill showing that the labor was in fact not covered so we are paying for trip and service. When we received the annual maintenance, there was no charge for “trip fees.”
I am totally disenchanted with James River Equipment, and will no longer consider purchasing anything further from them as was in the works. Their service department is unacceptable! We bought over 26k of equipment, and was considering over 20k on additional equipment. However, the excellent experience of the sales person will not make up for further horrific treatment from their service department.
Lawnside Classics: Burt’s – Vintage and Used Riding Mower And Garden Tractor Heaven, Including One Of The Oldest Riding Mowers Ever
(first posted 5/18/2013) Note : Burt only sells locally. He is retiring, is selling everything in his lot, and is willing to make deals to clear it out. He is located in Eugene, OR. on Hwy 99. Please Do NOT CALL Burt about information, parts, service, or advice.
Some of us have manged to fall in love with all sorts of powered machinery in our lives. Ever since I figured out how to start an ancient self-propelled mower and hook a wagon to it to ride around the Yoder’s barnyard as an eight-year old, I’ve been smitten. I’ve shared my motley collection of old lawnmowers here, and I’ll get to my riding mower soon. Our town is famous for its curbside classics, but if your fancy runs to classic riding mowers and garden tractors, we have that base covered too, thanks to Burt’s.
Burt’s has been a fixture here since well before I moved here twenty years ago, selling used Lawnside Classics and such to the cognoscenti for whom a modern badge-engineered machine just won’t do. Like with so many things (appliances, etc), today most consumer riding mowers are made by just a handful of companies. Burt’s is almost a museum, but you can buy whatever catches your fancy, like a Ford to match your blue Crown Vic. Let’s take a look around.
Or this very husky Bolens, which had a rep for making tough machines. Genuine gear and shaft drive to the rear wheels; no belts here, except to the mower.
Simplicity is one of the pioneering makers of riding mowers and tractors, and they’re still independent. This is one of their big ones, with a horizontally-opposed twin (Kohler, I’m quite sure).
Wheel Horse is also a pioneering brand, from at least the early fifties, when the growth of suburbia opened up a big new market for riding mowers.
Something a bit more modest: a Montgomery Ward 8 HP rider. It looks to have been likely built by one of the mass-producers of lower end equipment, either MTD or Murray.
An Allis Chalmers, to go along with your big AC farm tractor. After John Deere and International got into the riding mower/garden tractor business, smaller farm tractor makers like AC had to do. It wouldn’t look right, having a loyal AC customer riding a John Deere on the lawn. I suspect it was built by someone else, a very common practice in this business; then and now.
Inside the fence, its a bit of a jumble.
Lots of John Deeres, including this 112, a direct descendent of the first JD garden tractor, the legendary 110 from 1963. Kohler engines were used, and they deserved their rep as being the best of their kind.
I drove one of these “professionally”, in a short-lived job as a gardener’s assistant at a hospital in Catonsville, MD. It was a new-ish suburban hospital, and a giant expanse of lawn. I was sent out to spread fertilizer in the spring, but I wasn’t careful about my “lines”, and a week or two later, there were very obvious pale green strips between the lusher dark green swaths. That did not endear me to the boss.
Here’s an fairly early IH Cub Cadet. IH beat JD into the garden equipment market, with their original cub Cadet from 1960. The first three years of them had a belt drive to the transmission, but was then re-engineered to have direct drive, using the transmission from the larger four-cylinder Cub. Those Cub Cadets had a superb rep too. But IH sold the Cadet line to MTD in the early 1980s, so they’ve been badge-engineered for a long time.
recent John Deeres are Burts mainstay, in terms of sales. They’re well built, and always in demand, although their lines sold at the big-box stores are not as well built as the “genuine” JDs sold at dealers.
A view of more machines, including a couple of Hondas (the two red ones behind the one in front). Although Honda is very successful with regular lawnmowers and such, their riding mower line didn’t catch on, and they exited the market in the mid-nineties.
A colorful collection of garden tractors, featuring a wide range of styling gimmicks.
171 Комментарии и мнения владельцев
The Mrs. is wearing short shorts and sandals in the Fairbanks-Morse ad! No hearing protection or eye protection. There is probably no dead (wo)man switch in the seat if she falls off or burns her leg on the hot engine. The good old days before most product liability. How did we survive with no seat belts in cars and no helmets on bike riders? Maybe she will hit a rock and launch it at hubby. It also looks like poor Burt may have had some finger parts removed by mower blades?
Cool stuff Paul, Fairbanks Morse also built huge engines for ships and the like. Saw a cool Ford lawn tractor recently with Flathead V8 power at a vintage machinery show very cool and very quiet like a Henry should be
That looks like the “baby” flathead V8-60. And since it probably (hopefully) doesn’t need to run at much more than an idle, I suppose it can get away with a moderate sized radiator.
Somewhere I have pics of it with the bonnet up yep V860 and it carries no weight so I doubt it works hard at all, major computer problems have kept these shots off the cohort but I’m doing a deal for a rebuilt computer so ya never know. Damn found the shot doesnt show the radiator sorry
The guy who owned was driving it around all day along with lots of prehistoric stuff I couldnt identify it was a hot day I never saw steam coming out of it
A friend of mine had a deere 130 or 210 that he bought when he was 13. For the first couple of years he used it as transportation and for its intended use. When he got his liscence he treated his old deere to a complete resto/custom job. he painted it jd green bought the factory stripe kit and even got a NOS seat. He had it all shined up and original when he decided to add a two foot long two and a half inch stainless stack to it. He has since let it get a bit faded but he gave it too my eleven year old car guy nephew who is in the middle of restoring it again. The stack is being retained and is still as awfull(IMO) as ever but hey at least it still shines.
Help. I have a Blair 5 HP riding mower with hard plastic tires, yoke steering, forward reverse and a clutch for the drive only. I cannot find any reference to it. Any ideas? Thanks, Fran
I have a old old mower that resembles this one in picture, but it is called a “Snaper”-I will take a picture and send hope I get a reply to update things. It has a lot of grass around I was wondering it anyone has ever heard of this name brand. Thank you Gail
“…Fairbanks Morse also built huge engines for ships and the like…” The Fairbanks-Morse Opposed-Piston diesel engines, developed in the 1930s, each had two crankshafts, and each cylinder had two pistons. They were the power for most US diesel submarines, the backup power for nuclear submarines, and were used in locomotives, some of which are still in service today. It is still in production. It was reverse-engineered by the Soviets, but not entirely successfully as some of their engines had dismal reliability, unlike the real ones!
I recently struck a deal with a BIL he has an ancient ACTOS reel mower I offered to rebuild it for him rebuilding me a computer, a local friend has a 4 car garage you cant enter for old lawn mowers so I know who to see for advice/parts etc I’ll send a pic when my electronics finally work again might even write something for ya
I believe the heavy duty lawn/garden tractors for Montgomery Wards like the one pictured were built by Gilson. First lawn tractor my dad ever bought was an orange and white 8 horsepower Huffy from the local (pre-big box) hardware store with a 36″ deck. chrome moon hubcaps and a pull start rope through the dash unlike the electric start model (pictured below) which also had headlights. Had one of those liquid cooled 3813 Hondas too for 20 years. Indestructible engine and drive line. but just a so-so cut and way expensive parts. I’m much more satisfied now with my 8 year old Simplicity Broadmoor. but the old ones bring back so many memories. Great article Paul !
Just went back and read the Montgomery ward item I still have that olde drill start Morrison with Campbells soupcan muffler loud and obnoxious it still cuts my and a friends lawns luckily it has an old US made BS not a modern Chinese BS which dont last and its gained a few feet of mig wire recently too.
I’ve got my eye on Dad’s old John Deere 112 electric lift from circa 1973, 46in deck, newer cushy seat, and chrome hubcaps. 12hp Kohler that was replaced in 1987 because mom was doing most of the mowing and wasn’t as religious about checking the oil like Dad. (Oil starvation is a bitch!) Still going strong and pressed into weekly duty around their 3 acre lawn. Dad may not be ready to part with it yet but I’m not going to let it disappear like HIS Dad’s mid 60s 110 did during the estate sale when Dad couldn’t make up his mind about whether he should buy it or not. My favorites are the 70s to 80s John Deere’s that had “unusual” configurations like a John Deere 118. 100 series body and frame but 18hp and a 46 in deck, sort of like putting an SBC in a Chevette.
Heh, I’d love to have one of the IH Cub Cadets in running order. My grandpa had one. Here’s me and my brother on it. I’m the one with the eye patch. Meanwhile, I’ll keep soldiering on with my 1999 Craftsman tractor.
Hydrostatic. But I only know that because it says so right on the side of the tractor in the picture there.
Models that end in an odd number are hydrostatic. The above beauty is a 147: 14 = 14hp. My father, somewhere around ’71 got tired of push mowing the lawn, walked to the dealer in Lombard, IL, bought a new 147 and drove it home (down Roosevelt Road!). It was a very expensive tractor and my mother hit the roof as it was well over a thousand dollars…but what a fine machine it ended up being. He bought the snowplow attachment and used it for many years, plowing out our driveway sometimes our neighbors too. The mower deck rasied and lowered via an electric switch on the dash — it operated the hydraulic cylinder you see just below/in front of the Grey Brothers’ right legs. When our problematic Mark III Lincoln conked out a block away from our house in West Chicago years later, he towed it back home with the Cub Cadet with my mother steering the car. What amazes me is that he had to pull the car up a pretty steep hill: he said it was no problem for the tractor. The huge generator (black cylinder) in the pic is also the starter and I always loved firing the 147 up. It’s a wonderful sound: the gentle whirring noise as the engine turns over (no loud gear teeth to mesh/clash!) until the first few explosions as the engine came to life. I could count probably 10-15 individual explosions until the engine actually smoothed out began running on its own. I wish I could scan the pic of me riding on his lap when I was two-ish! Jim’s pic brings back fond memories. My father may still have the 147: at least I hope he does. He never took care of his equipment and it was in terrible shape when I last saw it. It’s the one thing I asked him to leave me. A few years ago I bought a coworkers old 169 after it blew out its front oil seal (bad news on a Kohler so I’ve heard). It came with a non-running 107 (or 109?) “parts tractor” although not a whole lot will interchange. I’ve got the oil seal but have put off installing it…and so it sits in a shed now. I can’t find a pic of the 169 (it’s a Hoss) but here’s its poor lil’ brother the one whose model number I cannot even remember. I’m not a Harley guy but these things are the Harley Davidsons of lawn tractors to me. I’d could see myself slapping a Cub Cadet bumpersticker on a few of my rides….(and I don’t care for bumperstickers!)
Understanding John Deere Lawn Tractor Engines
Understanding what types of engines are available in John Deere lawn tractors and the distinctions between cyclonic, iTorque and EFI (fuel injection systems) will help you determine which lawn tractor will meet your lawn and landscaping needs.
The first thing to know is that it isn’t a matter of which one is a better engine regarding quality. John Deere only uses quality engines in all of their residential and commercial mowers and each John Deere lawn tractor comes with model-specific warranties. The choice of engine is more related to the type of mowing, hauling, or towing you will be doing.
First, we’ll look at the 100 and 200 series of lawn tractors. They are a smaller subset of mowers best suited for residential mowing where you are working less than an acre or so of land and don’t have any demanding tasks like towing or hilly terrain to mow. The 100 and 200 series of John Deere lawn tractors come equipped with a quality V-Twin cyclonic engine.
Cyclonic engines are designed to filter air and keep dirt out of the engine, which extends the life of any engine. The V-Twin design delivers more power, is naturally balanced for less vibration, runs cooler and cleaner, and includes Electronic Fuel Management for easy starting – just like a car. The 5-Step Cyclonic Debris Management feature extends engine life. When reviewing engines, you should know that John Deere does have branded engines, but they do not manufacture their own. Depending on the model, you will find engines manufactured by quality brands like Kawasaki and Briggs Stratton.
The 100 Series provides comfortable, easy-to-learn, easy-to-own mowing. This includes a 30-second oil change system, side-by-side pedals, easy-read fuel gauge and John Deere reliability and durability. The 200 Series provides a step-up experience from the 100 Series with an engine and deck warranty package with the best cut quality. As you are reviewing, if you determine that you need a mower that meets more difficult demands, you can review the X300 Series and up.
The John Deere Select Series X300, X500, and X700 riding lawn tractors are built with premium engines and include features like 4-wheel steering and AccelDeep TM mower decks with an option for one-touch mulch control with our MulchControl TM Kit. These mowers have faster mowing speeds, up to 7.2 mph for larger lawns, hydraulic power steering and mower deck lift that can be easily operated at your fingertips, and our iTorque TM engines that are available exclusively on our gas-powered Select Series TM lawn tractors.
The iTorque Power System stands for intelligent design to get any task done efficiently while including the torque for lugging ability. This system is a combination of engine features that provide more lugging ability, even cooling and quality durability.
The John Deere X300 Select Series are serious, strongly built machines for when you need to mow an acre or two. The X500 Select Series steps up for 2-4 acres and are beefed up, larger and come with options for more capable attachments. The X700 Signature Series is the Cadillac of lawn tractors. When the going gets tough, the tough get going on an X700 Signature Series. With Accel Deep and high-capacity mower decks, and the ability to connect to heavy-duty attachments, the X700 takes care of any lawn, any time. If hilly terrain, lugging, hauling and mowing are involved, the X700 will help you get the job done.
With a wide selection of riding lawn tractor options, there is a price point and working model that will fit your needs. To find all the Riding Lawn Mowers and Tractors for sale, and learn about full parts and service support, find your nearest RDO Equipment Co. store.
Blake Mathues is Lawn and Garden Manager for RDO Equipment Co. where he advises on the purchase of and care of lawn and land machines and outdoor power equipment, manages a team of professionals providing equipment sales, parts and service support to customers. He has worked in the lawn and garden industry for nearly 20 years. Nine of those years being with RDO Equipment Co., the other with his family’s lawn service business.