A pulley/belt drive system attached to a mower deck has a belt tensioning mechanism for maintaining tension in an endless belt. The belt tensioning mechanism includes an idler arm pivotally mounted with respect to the mower deck such that the idler arm pivots about an idler arm pivot. A back-side idler pulley engaging a back-side portion of the belt and an inside idler pulley engaging an inside portion of the primary belt are rotatably mounted onto the idler arm. A belt tensioning device is attached to the idler arm to pivot the idler arm, wherein the back-side idler pulley and the inside idler pulley remain in a fixed orientation with respect to each other when the idler arm is pivoted.
Description
This application claims the priority benefit of U.S. Provisional Patent Application Ser. No. 60/933,740 filed Jun. 8, 2007.
This invention relates to the field of lawnmowers and, more specifically, to a belt tensioning assembly for use on a rotary mower deck.
Vehicles such as lawn and garden tractors are often adapted to carry and operate implements such as mower decks which require rotary drive input. To drive the blade or blades of a mower deck, a pulley and belt drive arrangement is commonly provided in which a pulley is coupled with a crankshaft on the vehicle’s engine. A V-belt is entrained around the crankshaft pulley as well as a pulley which is operably coupled to the spindles of the mower implement. Problems are commonly associated with conventional drive systems and include slipping or other undesired movement of the belt on the pulleys or the inability to obtain a desired tension in the belt, especially as the mower deck moves relative to the chassis of the mower.
Pulley/belt drive systems are typically tensioned using a back-side idler on the “slack-side” between the last (if more than one) driven pulley and the drive pulley or an inside (typically V-groove) idler. The back-side idler pulley arrangement typically enhances the drive system performance since “belt-wrap” on the drive and driven pulleys is typically increased. However, this arrangement does not function well with drive and driven pulley offsets in the lateral plane exceeding the pulley width or angularities approaching or exceeding 5 degrees since the belt will tend to ride-off the drive or driven pulleys. Inside pulley arrangements typically reduce performance since “belt-wrap” for the drive and driven pulleys is typically decreased.
This invention provides a method and apparatus for providing tension to the belt of a lawn tractor equipped with a mower deck. The difficulties inherent in the related art are overcome in a way that is simple and efficient, while providing better and more advantageous overall results.
The invention is directed to a pulley/belt drive system attached to a mower deck including a belt tensioning mechanism for maintaining tension in an endless belt. The belt tensioning mechanism includes an idler arm pivotally mounted with respect to the mower deck such that the idler arm pivots about an idler arm pivot. A back-side idler pulley engaging a back-side portion of the belt and an inside idler pulley engaging an inside portion of the primary belt are rotatably mounted onto the idler arm. A belt tensioning device is attached to the idler arm to pivot the idler arm, wherein the back-side idler pulley and the inside idler pulley remain in a fixed orientation with respect to each other when the idler arm is pivoted.
In one aspect of the invention, the back-side idler pulley and the inside idler pulley are positioned on the idler arm such that the angle a formed by the pivot axes of the back-side idler pulley, the idler arm and the inside idler puller is between about 75 to 115 degrees. In another aspect of the invention, the distance A from the pivot axis of the inside idler pulley to the pivot axis of the idler arm is between about 40 to 60% of the distance B between the axis of the back-side idler pulley to the axis of the pivot arm.
These and other features and advantages of this invention are described in, or are apparent from, the following detailed description of various exemplary embodiments of the systems and methods according to this invention.
The structure, operation, and advantages of the presently disclosed embodiment of the invention will become apparent when consideration of the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings wherein:
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the mower deck of the lawnmower of FIG. 1 with a two pulley belt tensioning mechanism according to an embodiment of the invention;
Corresponding reference characters indicate corresponding parts throughout the views of the drawings.
The invention will now be described in the following detailed description with reference to the drawings, wherein preferred embodiments are described in detail to enable practice of the invention. Although the invention is described with reference to these specific preferred embodiments, it will be understood that the invention is not limited to these preferred embodiments. But to the contrary, the invention includes numerous alternatives, modifications and equivalents as will become apparent from consideration of the following detailed description.
Referring now to the drawings, FIG. 1 shows a lawn tractor 10 equipped with a chassis 11, first and second rear ground engaging wheels 13, and first and second front ground engaging wheels 14. The rear ground engaging wheels 13 may be first and second rear drive wheels for use in providing locomotion for the vehicle. The lawn tractor 10 also includes an engine 15, which may be of any type and configuration, for use in transferring power to drive the rear ground engaging wheels 13. An operator seat 16 and steering levers 18 are provided to allow the operator to selectively steer the lawn tractor 10 as desired. It is noted that any manner of steering and driving the lawn tractor 10 may be chosen with sound engineering judgment, including but not limited to Zero Radius Turning lawn tractors. A mower deck 20 is operatively connected to chassis 11 in a manner well known in the art. The engine 15 also is configured to provide power to drivingly engage at least one cutting blade (not shown) housed within the mower deck 20. The cutting blades are used to sever or cut vegetation as is well known in the art.
With reference now to FIG. 2. a pulley/ belt drive system 22 mounted with the mower deck 20 is used to transmit rotational power from the engine 15 ( FIG. 1 ) to the mower blades (not shown). In the illustrated embodiment, the pulley/ belt drive system 22 includes a primary drive assembly 24 and a secondary drive assembly 26. The primary drive assembly 24 includes a drive or PTO pulley 28, a driven double stacked pulley 30, and a primary belt 32. The drive pulley 28 is operatively connected to, and rotated by, the engine 15 in any manner chosen with sound engineering judgment. When power is selectively transferred to the drive pulley 28, the primary belt 32 transfers power to the driven pulley 30.
The secondary drive assembly 26 includes the driven pulley 30, a number of blade spindles 34 rotatably supported on the mower deck 20, and an endless secondary belt 35. In the illustrated embodiment, the secondary drive assembly 26 has two blade spindles 34 supported for rotation about vertical axis 34′. The lower ends of the blade spindles 34 have secured thereto suitable cutting blades (not shown). The upper ends of the blade spindles 34 have blade pulleys 36 secured for rotation therewith. The driven pulley 30 is a double stacked pulley that has first and second pulleys stacked concentrically and selectively rotatable around a pulley bolt 38 as is known in the art. The primary belt 32 is operatively connected to the drive pulley 28 and the first pulley of the double stacked driven pulley 30. Thus, the drive pulley 28 can transmit power via the primary belt 32 to the double stacked driven pulley 30. The secondary belt 35 operatively connects the second pulley of the double stacked driven pulley 30 to the first and second blade pulleys 36. Thus, power can be transmitted from the double stacked driven pulley 30 to the blade spindles 34 thereby rotating the cutting blades. In this manner, sufficient torque is transferred to the cutting blades for severing the desired vegetation.
As is known in the art, the secondary belt 35 engages an idler pulley 40. The idler pulley 40 is rotatably mounted onto pulley arm 42. Pulley arm 42 is attached to the mower deck 20 by pivot 44 and is thereby rotatable about a vertical axis 44′ extending generally normal to the plane of the secondary belt 35. A spring (not shown) connects to pulley arm 42 and to the mower deck 20. The spring applies a force on pulley arm 42 to bias the arm in the direction to increase tension on the secondary belt 35, i.e., to rotate the pulley arm in the clockwise direction in FIG. 2.
According to the invention, the primary drive assembly 24 has a two-pulley belt tensioning mechanism 50 for maintaining tension in the primary belt 32. The two-pulley belt tensioning mechanism 50 consists of a back-side idler pulley 52 engaging a back- side portion 32′ of the primary belt 32 and an inside idler pulley 54 engaging an inside portion 32″ of the primary belt. The back-side idler pulley 52 and the inside idler pulley 54 are both arranged on a common idler arm or bracket 56. The back- side pulley 52 and inside pulley 54 are rotatably mounted onto the idler arm 56 and the idler arm 56 is pivotally mounted with respect to the mower deck 20 such that the two pulleys 52, 54 remain in a fixed orientation with respect to each other when the idler arm 56 is pivoted. Although the invention is shown in an embodiment with the two-pulley belt tensioning mechanism shown in the “slack side” of the primary drive assembly of a pulley/belt drive system, one skilled in the art will understand that the mechanism may be placed in the tension side of a primary drive system or in a pulley/drive belt system that only has a single belt without departing from the scope of the invention.
As best seen in FIG. 3. the pivoting idler mechanism 50 has a pivot sleeve 58 receiving a suitable bearing 60 to allow pivoting movement of the idler arm 56 about a designated fixed or relocateable axis 58′ with respect to the mower deck 20. A belt tensioning device, such as spring 57, is attached to the idler arm 56 at 59. Alternately, the belt tensioning device 57 may be any other air, hydraulic or other operated tension means known to those skilled in the art.
The back-side idler pulley 52 is desirably positioned such that when forced against a “slack-side” of the primary belt 32, it maintains belt tension at a desired level by compensating for extra belt length necessary for belt installation and removal. The back-side idler pulley engages the flat back-side of the primary belt, however, the back-side idler pulley 52 can also be a V-groove type in some circumstances such as the condition where a double-angle V-groove belt is utilized. The back-side idler pulley 52 is positioned to increase the belt wrap of the driven pulley 30 by being positioned in close proximity to the driven pulley 30.
The inside idler pulley 54 desirably maintain alignment of the primary belt 32 as it enters the back-side idler pulley 52 and driven pulley 30. The inside idler pulley 54 is a V-groove type or similar pulley. This pulley 54 also acts to provide belt tension. Additionally, positioning the inside idler pulley 54 adjacent the back-side idler pulley 52 provide a double-acting means to address variations in length of the primary belt 32 due to manufacturing tolerances and/or elongation from usage. The variations in belt length can be more readily addressed due to the double take-up provided by the back-side and inside idler pulleys 52, 54.
The belt tension spring 57 may be a tension, compression, torsion, or other spring that causes the idler arm 56 to pivot such that the back-side idler pulley 52 and inside idler pulley 54 are forced against the primary belt 32, thereby compensating for any extra belt length that would prevent desired belt tension from being achieved. Desirably, the back-side and inside idler pulleys 52, 54 are positioned close to the pivot axis 58′ of the idler mechanism 50. This enables belt tension in the primary belt 32 to be maintained at desired force levels with less input force and the input force, via spring 57, acts through longer effective leverage.
Referring now to FIG. 4. the inside idler pulley 54 is positioned on the idler arm 56 with respect to the pivot axis 58′ such that the angular relationship α of the pivot axis 52′ of back-side idler pulley 52 in reference to the pivot axis 54′ of the inside idler pulley 54 is from approximately 75 to 115 degrees. Desirably, the distance A from the pivot axis 54′ of the inside idler pulley 54 to the pivot axis 58′ of the idler arm 58 is between about 40 to 60% of the distance B between the axis 52′ of the back-side idler pulley 52 to the axis 58′ of the pivot arm 58. One advantage of this configuration is it maximizes belt wrap of the drive and driven pulleys 28, 30. Additionally, the configuration maintains belt alignment between the pulleys 28, 30 even if the lateral offset of the drive and driven pulleys exceeds 5 degrees (i.e. when the mower deck 20 pivots or is adjusted relative to the chassis 11). Such configuration allows for lateral offset between the drive and driven pulley 28, 30 when the mower deck 20 pivots or is adjusted relative to the chassis 11 in excess of ±5 degrees without sacrificing belt wrap and alignment.
While this invention has been described in conjunction with the specific embodiments described above, it is evident that many alternatives, combinations, modifications and variations are apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, the preferred embodiments of this invention, as set forth above are intended to be illustrative only, and not in a limiting sense. Various changes can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention.
Claims ( 6 )
A pulley/belt drive system attached to a mower deck of a lawn mower, the pulley/belt drive system including a belt tensioning mechanism for maintaining tension in an endless belt, the belt tensioning mechanism comprising:
an idler arm pivotally mounted with respect to the mower deck such that the idler arm pivots about an idler arm pivot;
a back-side idler pulley engaging a first back-side portion of the belt rotatably mounted onto the idler arm;
an inside idler pulley engaging an second inside portion of the belt rotatably mounted onto the idler arm; and
a belt tensioning device attached to the idler arm configured to apply a pivoting force on the idler arm to tension said belt;
wherein the back-side idler pulley and the inside idler pulley remain in a fixed orientation with respect to each other when the idler arm is pivoted.
The pulley/belt drive system of claim 1 wherein the back-side idler pulley and the inside idler pulley are positioned on the idler arm such that the angle a formed by the pivot axes of the back-side idler pulley, the idler arm and the inside idler puller is between about 75 to 115 degrees.
The pulley/belt drive system of claim 1 wherein the distance A from the pivot axis of the inside idler pulley to the pivot axis of the idler arm is between about 40 to 60% of the distance B between the axis of the back-side idler pulley to the axis of the pivot arm.
The pulley/belt drive system of claim 1 wherein the system comprises a primary drive assembly having a drive pulley, a driven double stacked pulley, and the endless belt is a primary belt.
The pulley/belt drive system of claim 4 wherein the back-side idler pulley is positioned between the inside idler pulley and a driven pulley.
The pulley/belt drive system of claim 5 wherein the inside idler pulley is a V-groove type pulley.
US12/151,555 2007-06-08 2008-05-07 Two-pulley belt tensioning mechanism Expired. Fee Related US7913479B2 ( en )
Priority Applications (1)
| US12/151,555 US7913479B2 ( en ) | 2007-06-08 | 2008-05-07 | Two-pulley belt tensioning mechanism |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| US93374007P | 2007-06-08 | 2007-06-08 | |
| US12/151,555 US7913479B2 ( en ) | 2007-06-08 | 2008-05-07 | Two-pulley belt tensioning mechanism |
Family Applications (1)
| US12/151,555 Expired. Fee Related US7913479B2 ( en ) | 2007-06-08 | 2008-05-07 | Two-pulley belt tensioning mechanism |
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| WO2014095225A1 ( en ) | 2012-12-21 | 2014-06-26 | Laverda Spa | Constant tensioning means for rotary motion transfer apparatus |
| EP2971856A4 ( en ) | 2013-03-13 | 2017-02-22 | Husqvarna AB | Slip controlling belt tension system |
| US11142031B1 ( en ) | 2016-09-19 | 2021-10-12 | Bad Boy, Inc. | Articulating front axle mower |
| US11178815B1 ( en ) | 2019-08-19 | 2021-11-23 | Bad Boy Mowers, Llc | Stand-on mower intermediate pulley system |
| US11267443B2 ( en ) | 2015-03-11 | 2022-03-08 | Briggs Stratton, Llc | Machine suspension system |
| US11273705B2 ( en ) | 2012-05-07 | 2022-03-15 | Briggs Stratton, Llc | Suspension system and method |
| US11293529B2 ( en ) | 2019-05-20 | 2022-04-05 | Deere Company | Snowblower belt drive system |
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| JP6278673B2 ( en ) | 2013-11-28 | 2018-02-14 | Ntn株式会社 | Chain guide and chain transmission |
| CN103814699B ( en ) | 2014-03-11 | 2016-03-09 | 星光农机股份有限公司 | A kind of combine |
| JP6265810B2 ( en ) | 2014-03-27 | 2018-01-24 | Ntn株式会社 | Chain guide and chain transmission |
| US9789759B1 ( en ) | 2016-08-26 | 2017-10-17 | Deere Company | Zero turning radius mower |
| US10005358B2 ( en ) | 2016-08-26 | 2018-06-26 | Deere Company | Zero turning radius mower |
| US10306833B2 ( en ) | 2016-11-08 | 2019-06-04 | Kubota Corporation | Mower deck with a three-dimensional single belt transmission |
| US10561065B2 ( en ) | 2017-11-03 | 2020-02-18 | Venture Products, Inc. | Hydraulically controlled flip up mower deck |
| US10322520B1 ( en ) | 2018-03-19 | 2019-06-18 | Sylvain Cote | Pulley system for transferring motor torque to a cutting blade assembly |
| RU192452U1 ( en ) | 2019-04-11 | 2019-09-17 | Общество с ограниченной ответственностью Комбайновый завод | BELT TENSION MECHANISM |
| US11365788B2 ( en ) | 2019-10-31 | 2022-06-21 | Deere Company | Mower drive belt tensioner arm |
| RU201898U1 ( en ) | 2020-05-14 | 2021-01-21 | Общество с ограниченной ответственностью Комбайновый завод | BELT TENSIONING MECHANISM |
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| WO2014095225A1 ( en ) | 2012-12-21 | 2014-06-26 | Laverda Spa | Constant tensioning means for rotary motion transfer apparatus |
| US20150344230A1 ( en ) | 2012-12-21 | 2015-12-03 | Laverda Spa | Constant tensioning means for rotary motion transfer apparatus |
| US9474211B2 ( en ) | 2012-12-21 | 2016-10-25 | Laverda Spa | Constant tensioning means for rotary motion transfer apparatus |
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And how to replace lawn mower belts
Lawn mower blades on a zero turn lawn mower aren’t driven directly by a PTO (power take off) shaft or by an engine crankshaft. Instead, they’re turned by a system of pulleys which are driven by a belt that’s powered by the electric clutch and the engine. Too much technical information? That’s ok, you don’t necessarily need to know all of that, but what you do need to know is that lawn mower belts wear, and if neglected, eventually break.
When to replace lawn mower belt?
Obviously, a broken zero turn lawn mower belt or broken lawn tractor belt results in the automatic need for a belt replacement, but how can you catch it before it fails while mowing and inconveniencing your weekend schedule? There’s no definite amount of time that a mower belt is supposed to last, but increased mower use shortens the interval in which a belt needs replacement. Simply put, more use equals more wear.
Additionally, faulty belts or mechanical failures like a seized pulley can make lawn mower belts break prematurely. If you’re wearing through belts more frequently than what seems normal, you may be sourcing inferior belts, or are experiencing a mechanical failure in the form of a seized pulley, a burr (sharp metallic rough spot) on the pulley, or some other interference along the path of the belt routing.
How to tell if a mower belt needs replacement
Visual inspection is all it takes to know if a mower belt is beyond its life, and it doesn’t take a rocket scientist or experienced mechanic to see the signs of wear that appear before an impending break. The average homeowner will be able to spot a wearing belt as long as they know what to look for.
These signs show when a mower belt could experience failure and needs replacement as soon as possible:
The belt has side wall damage.
Mower belt edges should be smooth and even throughout the entire length of the belt. If even a small portion of the belt is worn, it’s at risk of breaking and should be replaced.
The belt has a glazed or burned sidewall.
Look at the belt edge that contacts the pulleys. If it appears shiny, glazed or burned, it will need to be replaced.
The belt is cracked.
If the belt appears brittle and is deteriorating to the point that it has cracks, even shallow cracks, it is at high risk of breaking and needs to be replaced.
How to replace a lawn mower belt
Replacing a mower belt is easy and doesn’t take too much time, even for those who don’t have much, if any, mechanical experience. All it takes are a few wrenches, and about 1.5 hours on a Saturday morning. Alternatively, if it’s a process you’re uncomfortable doing yourself, your local Ariens dealer will be glad to complete the service work for you.
Watch the step-by-step process on how to change a lawn mower belt on an Ariens IKON X or IKON XL of any deck size. As always, before you start service, park the unit on a flat, level surface, stop the engine, remove the key and wait for all moving parts to stop and for hot parts to cool. Additionally, reread all the safety information in the operator’s manual for your unit.
Set the cutting height of the mower to its lowest position.
Remove the belt covers from the left and right sides of the mower deck.
Pull belt out of the left spindle pulley to release belt tension on the mower belt idler spring.
Identify the mower belt idler arm and remove the hardware above the belt finger / guide the so the idler spring hook can be accessed.
With safety goggles and an adequate spring pulling tool, remove the spring from the idler arm assembly.
Raise the mower deck to it’s highest cutting position.
Loosen the hardware retaining the idler assembly to the mower deck and remove the idler assembly. To remove the nut from the bolt, the bolt head under the deck will need to be held in place with another tool. Use caution when reaching under the mower deck.
Return the mower deck to its lowest cutting position.
Remove hardware retaining the belt finger from rearmost idler pulley and remove the belt finger.
Remove the belt from the clutch pulley located under the engine.
Remove the belt.
Install the new mower belt around the spindle pulleys and the idlers on the mower deck. It’s difficult to tell how the mower belt is routed in the picture below, so reference the diagram in the operator’s manual for your unit to see exactly how the belt should be routed.
Additionally, it’s crucial the belt is installed in the correct orientation. Looking closely at the belt, you can see that the belt has a V shape, which gives one side of the belt less surface area than the other side of the belt. It’s very important to install the belt so the side with less surface area is positioned against the spindle pulleys.
Ensure the belt is against the rearmost idler pulley and reinstall the belt finger for that pulley with its original flange nut.
Install the mower belt around the clutch pulley at the rear of the unit.
Return the idler assembly to its original position. Ensure the large flat steel washer is positioned between the idler and the deck, and ensure the small flat steel washer is positioned on top of the idler.
Raise the mower deck to it’s higest position and reinstall the idler assembly hardware, but finger tighten only. DO NOT completely tighten the hardware. Then, move the belt under the idler pulley so it’s in the orientation shown in the image below.
Safely reach under the deck to access the idler arm assembly bolt head. Hold the bolt head in place and tighten the nut to secure the idler arm assembly.
Lower the mower deck to its lowest cutting height.
Reinstall the belt finger into the idler arm. Then, while wearing safety goggles, reinstall the idler spring hook around the idler assembly.
Ensure the belt has tension and is correctly aligned in all pulleys.
Reinstall the spacer onto the idler assembly and secure with the original flange nut.
22. Reinstall the left and right belt covers with the original hardware.
Where to order lawn mower belts
If your belts are worn and want to try this procedure on your own, visit your nearest Ariens dealer for replacement parts, or source belts from the Ariens online parts store at parts.ariens.com. But again, if you aren’t comfortable completing this procedure on your own, visit your Ariens servicing dealer for help.
To learn which belts you need for your mower, click here to watch our 47-second video that shows how to identify replacement part numbers on your unit and how to find them online.
Can you Pulley swap a Hydrostatic Mower? (Explained)
Hydrostatic mowers are a popular choice for many homeowners and professionals due to their smooth operation and ability to easily change speed and direction.
However, like any mechanical device, hydrostatic mowers can experience issues and may need repairs or maintenance from time to time.
One common repair that may be required is a pulley swap, which involves replacing the pulleys on the mower.
In this blog post, I will discuss what a pulley swap is, when it may be necessary, and how to perform the procedure on a hydrostatic mower.
What is a pulley swap?
A pulley swap involves replacing one or more of the pulleys on a hydrostatic mower.
Pulleys are used to transmit power from the engine to the mower’s drive system, and they can become worn or damaged over time.
When this happens, the pulleys may need to be replaced in order to keep the mower running smoothly.
Lawn Mower Pulley Swap For Speed
If you want to increase the speed of your lawn mower, one option is to consider a pulley swap.
Swapping out the original pulley for a smaller one can increase the rotational speed of the mower’s blade, which in turn can result in a higher ground speed.
Here are some steps to consider if you want to attempt a pulley swap for speed:
Identify the existing pulley.
Determine the size and specifications of the current pulley on your lawn mower. This information will help you select a suitable replacement.
Determine the desired speed increase.
Consider how much speed you want to gain and ensure that the engine and other components of your lawn mower can handle the increased workload.
Keep in mind that modifying the pulley system beyond the manufacturer’s specifications may void any warranties.
Find a suitable replacement pulley.
Look for a smaller pulley that matches the specifications of your lawn mower’s drive system. You can check with local mower repair shops, online suppliers, or the manufacturer for compatible pulleys.
Replace the pulley
Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer or consult a professional if you’re not familiar with working on pulley systems.
Ensure that you disconnect the mower’s spark plug and take proper safety precautions to avoid any accidents.
Test and adjust.
Once you’ve installed the new pulley, start the mower and test its performance. Take note of any changes in speed and observe how the mower handles different terrains.
If necessary, you may need to fine-tune the adjustment or revert to the original pulley if the mower’s performance is negatively affected.
Note: It’s important to note that modifying your lawn mower’s pulley system can have consequences and may affect the overall performance and safety of the machine.
How to Speed Up a Hydrostatic Lawn Mower
To increase the speed of a hydrostatic lawn mower, you can try the following steps:
Check the manufacturer’s specifications.
Review the manual or consult the manufacturer’s guidelines to determine if there are any recommended methods for increasing the speed of your specific hydrostatic lawn mower model.
It’s important to follow their instructions to ensure you don’t damage the machine or void any warranties.
Adjust the speed control lever.
Most hydrostatic mowers have a speed control lever or dial that allows you to adjust the ground speed.
Locate the lever or dial and move it to a higher setting to increase the speed. Be cautious not to set it too high, as it could strain the engine or affect the mower’s stability.
Check the transmission fluid.
Hydrostatic lawn mowers use transmission fluid to operate the hydrostatic drive system. Low or degraded transmission fluid can lead to decreased performance.
Perform maintenance tasks.
Regular maintenance can help ensure optimal performance. Clean or replace the air filter, change the oil, and inspect the spark plug. These simple tasks can improve engine efficiency and potentially increase overall speed.
Check the tires.
Worn or underinflated tires can hinder speed and maneuverability. Inspect the tires for any signs of damage or excessive wear.
Ensure they are properly inflated to the recommended pressure as stated in the owner’s manual.
Reduce excess weight.
If your mower has any unnecessary attachments or accessories, consider removing them. Extra weight can affect speed and performance.
Final Remarks
A pulley swap is a common repair that may be necessary on a hydrostatic mower from time to time.
Whether you’re replacing worn or damaged pulleys, upgrading to more extensive or stronger ones, or simply looking to improve the efficiency of your mower, a pulley swap can help ensure that your hydrostatic mower is running at its best.
By following the steps outlined above, you should be able to successfully perform a pulley swap on your hydrostatic mower.
What is a pulley swap on a hydrostatic mower?
A pulley swap on a hydrostatic mower refers to the process of changing the size or configuration of the pulleys in the mower’s transmission system.
This modification can alter the speed and torque characteristics of the mower, potentially improving its performance.
Why would someone want to pulley swap a hydrostatic mower?
There are a few reasons why someone might consider pulley swapping their hydrostatic mower.
By changing the pulleys, you can increase the ground speed of the mower, allowing you to cover more area in less time.
Also, it can enhance the cutting performance, especially in thicker or taller grass.
People looking for a customized and more potent mowing experience frequently perform pulley swaps.
Can any hydrostatic mower be pulley swapped?
In theory, any hydrostatic mower can undergo a pulley swap. However, the ease and feasibility of the process may vary depending on the specific model and its design.
It is advisable to consult the manufacturer’s documentation or seek professional advice to determine if your particular hydrostatic mower can be pulley swapped.
Can I perform a pulley swap on my hydrostatic mower myself?
While it is technically possible to perform a pulley swap on your hydrostatic mower yourself,
It can be a complex task that requires mechanical knowledge and experience.
It involves disassembling parts of the mower, making precise adjustments, and ensuring proper reassembly.
If you are unfamiliar with such mechanical work, it is recommended that you seek assistance from a professional or someone with expertise in mower modifications.
Are there any risks or drawbacks associated with pulling a pulley on a hydrostatic mower?
Yes, there are some potential risks and drawbacks to consider. Altering the pulleys may put additional stress on the mower’s engine and other components, potentially leading to increased wear and a reduced lifespan.
It may also void any warranty provided by the manufacturer.
Additionally, if not done correctly, a pulley swap can negatively impact the mower’s performance or even cause damage.
It is crucial to thoroughly research and understand the implications before proceeding with any modifications.
Can a pulley swap on a hydrostatic mower be reversed?
In most cases, it is possible to reverse a pulley swap on a hydrostatic mower by returning the pulleys to their original configuration.
However, it is essential to keep in mind that any modifications made during the process, such as drilling new holes or altering parts, may be irreversible.
Always consider the potential consequences before attempting any changes, and ensure you have the necessary skills or professional assistance to revert the modifications if needed.
Will a pulley swap affect the warranty on my hydrostatic mower?
Modifying your hydrostatic mower, including performing a pulley swap, may void the warranty provided by the manufacturer.
It is recommended to review the warranty terms and conditions or contact the manufacturer directly to understand the implications before proceeding with any modifications.
George Bill
George Bill is an avid gardener and has been mowing his lawn for over 20 years. He has used a variety of different mowers during this time.George is an expert at maintaining his mowers and over the years, he has learned many tricks and techniques for getting the best results from his mowers and is always happy to share his knowledge on this site.
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How Tight Should A Mower Deck Belt Be: Fixing It Yourself
How tight should a mower deck belt be is a worry if you have the machine to work efficiently. Are you having problems with the belt of your riding mower and want to know how to adjust belt tension yourself?
For this article, we sought out mower experts and asked them to give us tips regarding the ideal drive belt tension.
Learn all about maintaining the ideal tension in the belt and identifying signs when a belt is too tight or loose.
- How Tight Should A Mower Deck Belt Be?
- – Turn The Mower off
- – Disengage the Deck
- – Remove Nuts and Bolts
- – Slightly Increase Tension
- – Tighten the Screws
- – Loose and Slipping
- – Taking Time
- – Excessively Vibrating
- – Excessive Noise
- – Smell of Rubber
- – Excess Pressure
- – Overstretched Spring
How Tight Should A Mower Deck Belt Be?
A perfectly tight mower belt can rotate without slipping off but not cause the engine to over-exert and overheat. If the belt does not slip off while working and is not producing unfavorable sounds that indicate wearing off of the belt, then that is the perfect tightness for it.
Of course, the belt should have an ideal level of tightness if the mower operates properly. A deranged belt affects the quality of the grass mowed and can also negatively impair the engine and the pulley system.
A loose belt is a big nuisance because the mower must be turned off repeatedly to put it back in place until it is properly fixed. On the other hand, a belt that is too tight will put undue pressure on the engine and the pulleys. When not fixed right away, this can damage these machine parts irreversibly.
Tightening a loose belt in the mower is not that difficult, and you can do it yourself at home. This will save you from unnecessary spending of money and time to take the mower to a professional mower mechanic.
– Turn The Mower off
Start this process by turning your riding lawn mower off and letting the engine cool down completely. Trust this process, because you do not want to put your hand anywhere in a hot mower.
Once it cools down fully, gain access to the spark plug by removing its cover and disengaging it using a plug wrench. Before this plug can be removed from the mower, you must clean the surrounding area, or else dirt and debris might fall into the engine. Removing this plug is crucial to prevent accidentally starting the mower up while fixing the belts.
– Disengage the Deck
Before gaining access to the deck component, you need to engage the blades. Some mowers have a lever in the control panel for engaging the blades. Otherwise, you can jam a rectangular piece of wood between the blades, so they do not move.
Disengage the deck switch to loosen the belt and make it easy to work. It is located differently in different mowers, so consult your instructions manual to find where it is.
Looking from the top towards the deck, identify the belt, the idler pulleys. and the swing arm. There will be a tension spring from the swing arm on one side to a bracket on the other.
– Remove Nuts and Bolts
Remove the nuts and bolts holding the belt using an appropriate-sized wrench. Keep them someplace secure because you do not want to lose them.
– Slightly Increase Tension
Now gently slide the bracket from the spring towards the pulley to increase the belt’s tension. Once the belt is tight enough, place it on the deck in its proper position.
– Tighten the Screws
Now screw the bolts in their new position on the bracket using the same wrench. The bolts should be tightened so much that the bracket cannot be moved anymore.
Lastly, check if the belt normally slides by disengaging the deck and the blades and turning the engine back on.
What Are Signs That The Deck Belt Is Loose?
Signs that the deck belt is loose would be from the belt feeling slipping and loose as it becomes uneven. over, taking time to turn on, and as you feel excessive vibration when working. Lastly, you will head excessive noise coming from the machine.
The number one way that you can check that your mower drive belt is loose is that it will keep slipping over and over again, and you will have to stop the mower, turn it off and reinstall it back in place, as some loose mower deck belt symptoms would start to show like taking time for mower to engage
– Loose and Slipping
Remember that lawn mower belts should transfer the engine’s power to the cutting blade and make them turn. If it is loose and slipping, this is initially indicated by patches of grass that remain uncut and uneven. Note that at times the belts are so loose that they come right off, and the blade does not rotate.
– Taking Time
Have you noticed that it takes a while for the mower to engage the cutting blade once it is started, compared to earlier? This is another easily missed sign of a loose belt. A healthy mower should be able to engage the blade as soon as the engine is revved up.
Fixing a Drive Issue on an Ariens Self Propelled Lawnmower
– Excessively Vibrating
When the belt is not tight enough, it strains the engine and produces vibrations within the lawn mower deck. Sometimes, these vibrations are too loud and prominent to be taken lightly. If you have a riding-style mower, sitting on it can become an altogether uncomfortable task.
– Excessive Noise
A loud and high-pitched noise emanating from the deck by the belt indicates that you must tighten it now. The belt might slip, get obstructed by other machine parts, and produce weird sounds.
Look closely at the belt and try to catch signs of weariness in it. The edges are the most vulnerable and begin to fray the most. Ensure the engine is turned off and a blade choker is placed before you get near the belt.
When the belt keeps slipping off the pulleys, the problem might lie either with the belt itself or the pulleys. Check both of them to get to the root of the problem before you can get it fixed.
What Are Signs That The Belt Is Too Tight?
Signs that the belt is too tight would be spread of smell coming from the rubber, in addition to feeling excessive pressure, and having overstretched spring in the mower. When the belt is too tight, these signs will show, which means you must get to action.
A tight belt will not only get damaged easily by itself but will also damage the intricate small machine parts that make up the mower’s pulley system. You can tell the belt is too tight because of the engine’s effort in running the mower.
– Smell of Rubber
Stop your riding mower right there once the smell of burning rubber begins to come from it. This means the tires are burning, or the belt has been tightened too much. A belt that has been tightened this much is at risk of developing cracks and snapping into two parts if not corrected.
– Excess Pressure
When the belt is too tight, this puts an extraordinary amount of pressure on the pulley system. This can be identified by the mower blades turning slower than you want them to. If not corrected immediately, the nuts, bolts, and other small parts of the pulley system will get damaged and have to be replaced.
– Overstretched Spring
If you suspect the belt is a bit tight but cannot be sure about this, turn the engine off and inspect the belt system of the mower. Check the tension spring with special care because it starts overstretching foremost.
Sometimes the belt shreds up in several parts during mowing, and the mower dies. In this case, it will have to be taken to a mechanic to get the belt and the pulley system fixed up professionally.
Conclusion
This concludes our brief but concise guide on the right tension for a mower belt.
- The belt should be only as tight so as not to put any strain on the belt or the pulley system.
- When the right tension is not maintained in a lawn tractor, the belt will keep slipping off over and over again.
- It is very easy to fix the tension of your belt by yourself, but ensure that the engine has been turned off first and the tires are properly disengaged.
Taking care of the belt in a riding-style mower is undeniably an important aspect of its regular maintenance. After going through this guide, you can finally fix yours like a professional.
Lawn Mower Pull Cord Not Catching (This Is Why)
Without a pull cord, we’re going nowhere. Unlike a car, we can’t boost it. Hey, I know the feeling when your day doesn’t go to plan. Not to worry, you’ve come to the right place.
Why is my lawnmower pull cord not catching? The most likely cause of the mower pull cord not catching and turning over the engine is worn Pawls.
What are Pawls?
Pawls are spring-loaded arms that catch the flywheel and turn over the engine. In this post, we’ll look in more detail at what a Pawl is, what it does, and, more importantly, how you can take action today and get it fixed. Strap yourself in!
This post covers pull cord issues pretty well. However, if you need video help, check out “Pull cord faults video.” It covers diagnosing pull cord problems and their step-by-step repair processes.
Pull assembly pawls
Ariens 46″ Riding Lawnmower Belt Replacement HOW TO. 960460026-01
Pull Assembly Components and What They Do
Pull cords work hard and do give their fair share of problems. Having an understanding of how a pull start works will help when repairing. Let’s just take a minute to understand the basic components involved.
The main components of your lawnmower pull start system include:
- Pull cord
- Handle
- Pulley
- Pulley recoil spring
- Pulley cover
- Pawls
- Flywheel pawl receiver
- Pull assembly housing
The most common pull cord problems listed in order of commonality include:
- Pull cord snapped
- Broken pull cord handle
- Pull cord recoil spring failure
- Damaged pull cord pulley
- Damaged pulley pawls
The Pull Cord
The pull cord is the most likely component to fail. The pull cord wraps around the pulley, and the pulley lives inside the pull assembly housing. Replacing the pull cord will require removing the pull assembly housing. I wrote a post about it here, “Replacing a pull cord.”
The pull cord is the most likely component to fail. The cord wraps around the pulley, and the pulley lives inside the pull assembly housing.
Replacing the pull cord will require removing the pull assembly housing. I wrote a post about it here, “Replacing a pull cord.”
The Pull Cord Handle
Pull cord handle often breaks as the handle can sometimes fly loose during the starting procedure.
The problem is, the cord may retract back inside the mower. This will require removing the pull start housing to re-tension the spring and fit the new handle.
The Pulley
When fitting a new pulley, best to opt for the spring and pulley combined. Springs can be difficult to handle, and the combo, for a few extra dollars, saves a lot of frustration. The pulley is central to the whole mechanism.
Its functions include guiding, feeding, and storing the pull cord, retaining the recoil spring, and housing the pawls. Pulleys are made from plastic and will often crack, causing the cord to bind. Replacing the pulley will require removing the pull assembly, and it’s better to replace the pulley and recoil spring together.
Pulley Recoil Spring
The pulley recoil spring is responsible for retracting the cord after pulling. The spring lives in the center of the pulley and is anchored against a spud on the pull assembly housing.
To replace the spring (usually replaced with the pulley), the pull assembly housing will need to be removed and also the pulley. If you fit a pulley spring, check out “Replacing a pull cord”
The Pulley Cover
The pulley cover is also made from plastic. Its functions include fixing the pulley axle in place and guiding the pawls in and out.
Pulley covers are made from plastic usually and can simply crack due to wear and tear. Replacing will require removing the pull assembly housing but not the pulley.
The Pawls
The pawls are also made from plastic, but some models use metal. Their function is to fly outwards under centrifugal force caused by the pulling of the pull cord.
When the pawls are flung out, they catch on the flywheel receiver, which causes them to couple. The engine now turns over, and when the engine starts, the pawls retract.
Flywheel Receiver
The flywheel receiver (fixed to the engine flywheel) seen here has four recesses. The pulley pawls will catch two of these (whichever is closest) and turn the engine over.
The flywheel pawl receiver is a metal cup fixed to the flywheel. When the pulley pawls connect with the receiver, they couple and crank over the engine. Receivers don’t generally cause much trouble.
Pull Start Assembly Housing
The pull assembly housing (also known as the blower housing) is, as its name suggests, the outer cover that retains the various pull-start components.
The housing is commonly made from plastic and usually doesn’t cause problems. Most repairs will require removing the pull assembly housing. Removing them isn’t difficult.
Some housings will be large and cover the whole engine, while others will be far more user-friendly and just be large enough to house the pulley.
Pull assembly – Housings will vary in size. Yours may be smaller and less work to remove.
Replacing Pawls
A mower that won’t catch and turn the engine most likely has a faulty pawl issue. The pawls are made from plastic, as you know, simply wear out. There are other possible reasons that the engine won’t catch and turn, and we’ll look at them below. Check out the pull start troubleshooting video here, which covers all the main faults and the repairs, and if you need parts, check out the great pull starter deals on the Amazon link below.
Remove plug wire – It’s always best to remove the plug wire before working on your mower; it prevents any possibility of it starting.
Remove Honda housing – The housing on a Honda mower is held with three fasteners and is typical Honda – very user-friendly.
Remove housing – The housing on other mower engines may require a little more work to remove.
Test pull assembly – Test the assemblies by pulling the pull cord – the pawls should shoot outwards from under the pulley cover.
Remove cap – Honda fixed their cap using a Torx head screw. It’s important to know that it is a left-hand thread. Meaning to remove the screw, turn the Torx head clockwise. (right)
Other types may use a clip; the clip just slides off, but I place a rag over the clip when removing as this guy can fly, and you could spend a whole afternoon searching and still never find it.
Remove pawls – Your pulley pawls may be worn, damaged, or just dry. Remove them to examine. The pawls should fit snugly in the pulley; if they’re loose, they’re worn. On the top side of the pawls, you should see a spud; it sits on the track of the cap.
If the spud is missing or worn, go ahead and replace the pawls. If, however, the pawls are just dry, put some silicone grease on them, reassemble and test.
The pulley cap must also be checked for wear and damage. A damaged cap will prevent the pawls from working.
Fitting pawls – Add a small amount of lube on the new pawls and cap, it will help them work smoothly, and they’ll last longer.
Reassemble, test, and refit your plug wire, and you’re all set; nice work you!
Other Possible Pull Starter Issues
So what if my pawls and cap look good? What else could cause the problem? Other possibilities include:
The pulleys are made from plastic; they don’t outlive the engine. A cracked or worn pulley will cause the pawls to bind and stick. Replacing a pulley is a little more work, but it is a job you can take care of yourself. I’ve written a post about it here “Pull cord repair”.
A damaged receiver isn’t very common, but it can happen. Most are made from metal and are durable, but others are made from plastic, and you know what happens to plastic. So if your pawls looked fine, FOCUS your attention on the pulley and receiver.
Flywheel receiver may be plastic or metal – check for damage, wear, or misalignment.
Related Questions
Why can’t I pull the string on my lawnmower? The most common cause of a lawnmower string not pulling is worn pull assembly pawls. However, other possible causes include:
Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.
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