Lawn mower wheels replacement
HRB215. HRM215 Honda Wheel Fits Most HRB215 and HRM215 Models
PET-3453-HO 177-1 Honda Self Propelled Wheel Fits most HRB215 and HRM215 Models Part #: PET-3453-HO
Honda Self Propelled Lawn Mower Wheel Fits most HRB215 and HRM215 Models. OEM Wheel (Replaces Wheel Listed Below. Different Design) ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRB215. HRM215 Honda Front Wheel HRB215 AND HRM215 Models
PET-3479-HO 177-2 Honda Front Wheels used on HRB and HRM215 Series. Also Rear wheels on HRM and HRB215 Push Part #: PET-3479-HO
Honda Front Wheels used on HRB and HRM215 Series Mowers. Also Rear wheels on HRM and HRB215 Push Models. OEM Wheel. (Replaces Wheel listed Below. Different Design) ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRB215. HRM215 Honda Self Propelled Wheel Replaces 42710-VE2-800
4048781-HO 177-3 Honda Self Propelled Wheel Fits most HRB215 and HRM215 Models Part #: 4048781-HO
Honda Self Propelled Wheel Part Number 42710-VE2-800. Fits most HRB215 and HRM215 Models. OEM Lawn Mower Wheel Honda. ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRB215. HRM215 Honda Front Wheel HRB215 AND HRM215 Models
4069407-HO 177-4 Honda Front Wheel used on HRB and HRM215 Series. Also Rear wheels on HRM and HRB215 Push Part #: 4069407-HO
HR214SXA. HR215SXA Self Propelled Rear Wheel HR214. HRA214. HR215. HR216
4022067-HO 177-5 Rear Wheel HR214SXA, HRA214SXA, HR195SXA, HR215HXA, HR215SXA, HR216SXA, HR215SMA Part #: 4022067-HO
Honda Self Propelled Rear Wheel Part Number 42810-VA3-J00. Used on models HR214SXA, HRA214SXA, HR195SXA, HR215HMA, HR215HXA, HR215SMA, HR215SXA, HR216SXA, HRA215SXA OEM Wheel. ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HR214SXA. HR215SXA Honda Front Wheel Self-Propelled and Rear Wheel On Push
4022034-HO 177-6 Honda Front Wheel with Bearings and Rear Wheels on many Honda Push Models. OEM Wheel Part #: 4022034-HO
Honda Front Wheel with Bearings and Rear Wheel Part Number 42710-VA3-J00 on many Honda Push Models. Front Wheel on HR194PXA, HR194SXA, HR195PDA, HR195SXA, HR214PXA, HR214SMA, HR214SXA, HR215HXA, HR215PXA, HR215HMA, HR216SXA, HRA214PXA, HR214PDA, HRA215SXA, HRS21PA, HRS21SA Rear Wheel used on models listed above ending with PA, PVA, PDA, or PXA (Push Models not Self-Propelled). ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRT216. HRB216. HRR216 Honda Self Propelled Rear Wheels HRT216, HRB216, HRR216
5664982-HO 177-7 Honda Self Propelled Rear Wheel, Fits most HRB216, HRT216, HRS216, HRT216, HRR216, HRZ216 models Part #: 5664982-HO
Rear Self Propelled Wheel Fits most HRB216, HRT216, HRS216, HRT216, HRR216, HRZ216 models. Replace your walk-behind damaged rear wheels with the Honda 8 in. Rear Replacement Wheel. The wheel features an 8 in. diameter ad fits Honda HRR and HRS models. OEM Honda Wheel.( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRT216. HRS216. HRR216 Honda Front Wheel On Self Propelled
5664990-HO 177-8 Honda Front Wheel on Self Propelled HRS216, HRT216, HRR216, and Rear Wheel on Push model Listed. Part #: 5664990-HO
This wheel features an 8 in. diameter and fits Honda HRR, HRT and HRS models. Honda Front Wheel on Self Propelled HRS216, HRT216, HRR216, and Rear Wheel on Push model ending with PDA. Fits Models with Ball Bearing in wheel. OEM Honda Wheel ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRB216. HRB217 Honda Lawn Mower Wheel Replaces 44710-VE1-E00
6651491-HO 177-9 Honda Front Wheel Fits some HRB216 and HRB217. Weight attached to back side of Wheel. Part #: 6651491-HO
Honda Front Wheel Part Number 44710-VE1-E00. Fits some HRB216HXA, HRB216TDA, HRB216TXA, HRB217HXA and HRB217TDA. This wheel has a built in weight on back side like pictured. Original Honda Lawn Mower Parts. ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRR216. HRT216. HRS216 Honda Lawn Mower Wheel without Ball Bearing Style
5665153-HO 177-10 Honda Wheel Fits many HRR216, HRT216, HRS216 models that have no bearing in wheel. Part #: 5665153-HO
Honda Wheel Part Number 44710-VG3-000 (010). Fits many HRR216, HRT216,and HRS216 Models that do not have a bearing in the wheel. Honda OEM Wheels. Same as our 9224460-HO wheel except Grey color is just a little different. ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRR216VKA. HRR216VYA Replaces Honda 44710-VL0-L01ZB
9224460-HO 177-13 Honda Wheel Part Number 44710-VL0-L01ZB Part #: 9224460-HO
Wheel that fits Honda HRR216K6VKAA, HRR216K7VKAA, HRR216K8VKAA, HRR216K8VYAA, HRR216K9VKAA, HRR216K9VLAA and HRR216K9VYAA walk behind mowers.Part Number 44710-VL0 L01ZB. This is an original OEM part Same as out 5665153-HO except Grey Color is just a minor shade off. ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRX217HXA. HRX217TDA Honda 9 Inch Front Wheel Most HRX Models
7648165-HO 177-11 Front Wheel Replaces Honda 44710-VH7-000ZA Part #: 7648165-HO
Front Wheel Fits Most Honda Models: HRR216K3VXA. HRR216K4VXA. HRX217HXA. HRX217K1HXA. HRX217TDA. HRX217K1TDA. HRX217K1TDA. HRX217K1VKAA. HRX217K2HXAA. HRX217K2VKAA ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRX217HXA. HRX217HMA 9 Inch Rear Wheel Fits Most Honda HRX Mowers
7648157-HO 177-12 Rear Wheel Fits Most HRX Models Part #: 7648157-HO
Rear Wheel Replaces Honda 42710-VH7-000ZA. Fits Models HRR216K3VXA. HRR216K4VXA. HRX217HMA. HRX217HXA. HRX217TDA. HRX217K1HMA. HRX217K1TDA. HRX217K2VKAA. HRX217K2HXAA. HRX217K2VKAA ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRX217HMA Replaces 44710-VH7-B00ZA
7979859-HO 177-16 Honda 44710-VH7-B00ZA Part #: 7979859-HO
Honda HRX217HMA Front Wheel with Built in WEIGHT. Honda Part Number 44710-VH7-B00ZA (GRIP GRAY) ( Front and Back View. Sold Each)
HRR216K5. HRR216K6 Replaces 44710-VL0-L00ZA
Lawn mower wheels replacement
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I have a cheap Murray push mower with the 12″ diameter wheels in back. Friend gave it to me couple years ago when it wouldnt start new out of box and getting anybody to honor warranty impossible without shipping charges more than mower cost. Last spring got around to replacing the plastic carburetor with an old adjustable Tecumseh carb from 70s I had in spare parts box with homemade adapter. Ran nice and my main mower all summer to see how it held up. Reliable easy starter with the Tecumseh carb. Wasnt horrible to push though I knew wheel was plastic turning on metal bolt, no bearing or even a bushing. Believe it or not, noticeable wobble after just the one year use. I am not impressed with this kind of engineering though the plastic carburetor was a big hint.
Looked on Amazon. All 12″ mower wheels, whether metal with bearings or plastic with/without bearings, all around 20 or some mower specific ones higher. So you know its not cost of manufacturing that drives price, its whatever they can get enough suckers to pay for garbage. If I knew rest of mower would last, would buy the metal wheels with replaceable bearings for it. Those are sealed bearings so of course nobody ever lubes them. You can drill tiny hole in each bearing seal (two bearings per wheel) and squirt oil or grease in the hole, some of the sealed bearings though supposed to be factory lubed for life, dont seem to have much lube in them, if any.
Yea I know about the trick with plastic wheels of drilling out center hole to 5/8 and using short piece 1/2 inch copper water pipe as a bushing. It will get rid of wobble, no idea how long it would last, still be difficult to lube. But copper is soft and should wear better than plastic without creating wear on the bolt/axle. Just hate half arsed workarounds like that. Still wouldnt push as easy as properly lubed REAL bearing. Not sure if I have any scraps copper pipe around anymore. Can only imagine what anything copper costs new. This unfortunately probably makes most sense to try. Putting 60 into new wheels with bearings probably doesnt make sense. Though such metal center wheels probably outlast several mowers if taken car of. Alas even the plastic ones might outlast me.
harry chickpea
I have a (self-propelled) mower like that in my mower graveyard. IMO, those with big plastic wheels need to have “Mattel” plastered all over the box they come in and advertising. I did the various tricks, but eventually bought a new mower with smaller wheels rather than fool with it any more. I was not about to buy replacements for a clearly intentional design defect made in the hopes of aftermarket profits.
Mowers in general have devolved into cheap toys or zero turns that cost as much as a small car. Even when a design is decent, the safety brigade comes around and demands compromises that make the design unworkable. I have a tractor rider mower. I have had to remove ALL the “safety” BS add-ons to make the deck work. The shields over the deck pulleys actively accumulated grass clippings to the point of making tiny hay bales. The safety shield over the discharge chute was designed in such a manner that clogs were a GIVEN if the height of the grass being mowed required a cut of more than 1/2″. With the shield completely removed, the deck cuts flawlessly.
Don’t even get me started on the gas can debacle. gasoline has been spilled through the safety upgrades than ever was before. I know exactly where I would like to place some of the larger spouts, if I could only find the engineer/lawyer teams that designed and mandated them.
So you think I should just buy a new 200 mower every year or maybe one of those 1500 wonders? Wont even mention one of those 10k crazy town zero mowers, maybe worth it if you could legally drive them on hiway, but until then. Brush hog is might big to mow the lawn.
Did find pkg of 10 olite bushings for 20. Thats real oil inpregnated bronze bushings. They are short so need two per wheel. And besides the copper pipe trick, saw one YouTube where guy used a steel spacer as a bushing. He did put bit grease on axle bolt before installing it. No idea how that would work. You would get more bolt wear since its steel on steel. But perhaps new bolt and new sleeve bushing cheaper than the olite bushings?
Also suppose its how you look at it. New steel center wheels with real replaceable bearings are expensive would cost me like 60 to replace mine with metal center wheels from Amazon. And the mower will push easier. BUT where are you going to buy a 100 mower that comes with such from factory? Well, where are you going to buy a NEW 100 mower anywhere? That era has passed. I think you could get new cheapy mower for like 29.95 when I was young and it might be better than low end mower sold today. So replacing the plastic wheels with steel center wheels and real bearings might not be that crazy. Push mowers (kind with gas engine) kinda start at 200 anymore and thats with MATTEL label all over them as Harry suggested. I am betting not any out there with replaceable wheel bearings under 500, maybe not under 1000 anymore. Its a plastic world anymore. I swear there are line of mowers on Amazon made in China (poor reviews) that look like they have blow mold plastic wheels, no rubber or imitation rubber in sight. ALL PLASTIC like a kids toy.
Lawn mower wheels replacement
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Mower Wheel Assemblies
Mow has replacement wheel assemblies, wheel Parts and hardware to keep your mowers moving. We carry wheel assemblies for Zero-turn, ride-on, and walk behind mowers and decks.
Don’t see what you need? We can get it. Find OEM part# and chat with us now.
Keep your mowers running smoothly with parts from Mow.
Step 1: Things You’ll Need.
You can do just one, but since I was doing it I did all four.
Materials you’ll need: 4 Brackets 2″ x 2″ x 1/4″ angle x 3 1/2 (I got these at my local fabrication place and the cut them and cleaned them up for me) 8 bolts 1/4-20 x 3/4″ (I replaced what old hardware I could) 8 nuts 1/4-20 8 washers 1/4 size i/d
Tools you’ll need: Drill Drill bits Hammer Spanners (open/closed end wrenches) Ratcheting wrench sockets Wire brush
Step 2: Dissasembly
If the deck is too far gone, this isn’t for you. But if you’re deck is in decent shape than you can go ahead if you feel ambitious.
Also I didn’t move the deck from the engine, It would have made this process easier
Using the wire brush clean all the grass and rusted bits away so you can get your sockets on the bolts and the bracket will fit into the inside of the deck.
Take apart the wheel assembly and keep in the same order. Remove the handle and handle bracket.
Step 3: Making and Mounting the Bracket
Place the blank stock up into the inside of the deck and mark the holes where the handle bracket attached to the deck.
Tap / reshape the side of the deck to it is flush with the bracket and perpendicular to the top of the deck.
Mark the holes for the wheel support and height positioning plates tab.
Drill out the holes for the wheel support and height positioning plates tab.
Reassemble the bracket onto the deck and tighten everything down.
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Комментарии и мнения владельцев
My two front wheels rusted out and fell off even though the engine runs fine, so this is just what I was looking for. I went with slightly larger aluminum brackets for my lawn mower. 2.5 x 2.5 and 4 inches long. I got them from a place called metal by the foot after calling a couple of places that didn’t take small orders. i was told to go there. I would make two changes. Although 1/4 ” thick brackets are remarkably sturdy it’s overkill and very hard to drill thru with even a good cordless drill. says me after ten minutes and two drill bits. 1/8″ thick brackets are good enough and much easier to work with. I would also use 1″ bolts for more clearance. Great instructable. Thanks.
My push lawn mower frame came a lose and now I can’t find the bolts to neither sides to be able to push it. I have a lot of different screws and nuts. But I really don’t know what to do from there
“Use it up; wear it out; make it do, ” was an expression my depression era parents had tattooed on their souls. I too hate to throw anything away that can be salvaged with a simple fix. What I’m saying is “Hooray for you!” Kudos for a nicely done ‘ible and an earth friendly attitude.
I don’t have anything close to the machinery required to custom make a metal bracket like that. Do you think a custom made PVC bracket would hold?
Looks like he just used aluminum angle. If you never worked with it, it’s great stuff, and you can get it at most hardware or home improvement stores. You can cut it easily with a hacksaw, and drill it easily with an ordinary drill and bits! Nothing special needed!
nobody else a fan of custom lawn mower camber?
I simply use a steel door hinge. I grind off the hinge part, and I am left with a steel plate. I enlarge one of the screw holes and just bolt the wheel to the mower frame, slipon the plate on the underside, put the nut on and tighten away. Works great, it’s quick and cheap!
I have done things similar to this, usually for other people to help them out. Then they buy a new mower within a season, regardless, and make me wonder why I bothered.
That’s funny! I went to some trouble some time ago, getting the software and cables (which she was missing) necessary to make my Mom’s aging Bernina sewing machine sew beautiful embroidery. didn’t cost her a dime. Win, right? NO. She shortly thereafter ran out and spent 5 grand on the new model, which in my opinion is an inferiorly engineered machine in that it uses YOUR COMPUTER as the ‘brains’ of the embroidery module. that is, it is not self-contained and is essentially tied to the Windows operating system. Glad to help, but I agree, sometimes you wonder why you did! The other thing that bugs me is that people feel justified in asking you to do things for free because they “couldn’t possibly do it themselves”. But do they think to do something for you that THEY COULD DO? HAHA
Never heard that phrase before. I like it!
It is likely that the sentence is badly written, because I do not speak English but Spanish. I use Google Translator.
In Spanish they say “haz el bien sin mirar a quién”.
A new (recent) translation says ” “do good With Dick and Jane”. ¿It is so, or is a translation error?
Osvaldo, “Do good without looking at who.” is an acceptable English expression. The grammar would be just a little better if it said, “Do good without looking at whom.” “Who” is the nominative case. “Whom” is the objective or accusative case. Another way to say it would be, “Do good without considering the recipient.” or “Do good without considering who benefits.”
Dick and Jane are two of the main characters in a series of books almost everyone used in their first years of school. There were also a little sister named Sally, a cat named Puff, and a dog named Spot. A couple of years ago there was a movie titled “Fun with Dick and Jane.” It starred Tia Leoni and Nicholas Cage. It did not concern the children’s books, but tried to remind everyone of them.
Alternative to models using 42710-VE2-M01ZD or 42710-VE2-M02ZD
HRR216K6 VKAA LAWN MOWER, VIN# MZCG-8000001 TO MZCG- 8199999 HRR216K5 VKAA LAWN MOWER, VIN# MZCG-7800001 TO MZCG- 7999999
hrr216, hrr216 pka, hrr216 vka, hrr216 vla, hrr216 vya, hrr2169pkaa, hrr2169 vkaa, hrr2169 vlaa, hrr269 vyaa, hrr2169 pkaa, hrr2169 vkaa, hrr2169 vlaa, hrr269 vyaa, hrr2169vkaa, hrr2169vlaa, hrr2169vyaa, hrr2169pkaa, hrr2169vkaa HRB216HXA HRB216HXAA HRB216TDA HRB216TDAA HRB216TXA HRB216TXAA HRB217HXA HRB217TDA HRR216S3DA HRR216SDA HRR216K2SDAA HRR216K2TDAA HRR216K2TKAA HRR216K3TDA HRR216K4TDA HRS216SDA HRS216K1SDA HRS216K1SDAA HRS216K2SDAA HRS216K3SDAA HRS216K4SDAA HRT216S3DA HRT216SDA HRT216K1S3DA HRT216K1S3DA/A HRT216K1SDA HRT216K1SDA/A HRT216K1SDAA HRT216K1SDAA/A HRT216K1TDAA HRT216K1TDAA/A HRT216K2TDAA HRZ216TDAA HRB216HXA HRB216HXAA HRB216TDA HRB216TDAA HRB216TXA HRB216TXAA HRB217HXA HRB217TDA HRR216S3DA HRR216SDA HRR2162SDAA HRR2162TDAA HRR2162TKAA HRR2163TDA HRR2164TDA HRS216SDA HRS2161SDA HRS2161SDAA HRS2162SDAA HRS2163SDAA HRS2164SDAA HRT216S3DA HRT216SDA HRT2161S3DA HRT2161S3DA/A HRT2161SDA HRT2161SDA/A HRT2161SDAA HRT2161SDAA/A HRT2161TDAA HRT2161TDAA/A HRT2162TDAA HRZ216TDAA hrr216k6 vkaa, HRR216K7 VKAA, HRR216K8 VKAA, HRR216K8 VYAA, HRR216K9 VKAA, HRR216K9 VLAA, HRR216K9 VYAA, HRS216K5 SKAA hrr216k6vkaa, HRR2167VKAA, HRR216K8VKAA, HRR216K8VYAA, HRR216K9VKAA, HRR216K9VLAA, HRR216K9VYAA, HRS216K5SKAA