Poulan Pro 960460075 17.5HP 500cc 42 in. 6-speed Lawn Tractor. Poulan pro riding mower battery


Does your stator have 2 YELLOW wires going to the Voltage Regulator ‘ IF SO- Unplug the connector and measure the alternator output. It should be 28 VAC minimum at high speed.

Thanks guys. That site didn’t do me any good Fred. Bill, as I recall it has only a single wire going to the Regulator from the stator. Two wires come out of the Regulator. Neither have the 13V needed. Thanks for the hint about measuring with the AC meter. I’d forgotten about that.


Bill thanks for coming back. I printed that and it’s clear theres only the one diode. What I have looks different. Heres a drawing with voltage readings. It’s on the side of the engine block.

Way up here we are feeling the effects of Harr’cn Isaak. It’s been in the 90’s and suddenly it’s down in the 70’s with the winds out of the North.


Bill you got me again. Proved I just cant make a good investigation. Here’s some Photos. Looks like the two in the left are White One in the middle is Black On the right is two white wires.

THis is a new Regulator. He never let me do any trouble shooting. I shed a tear:trink40:

Bill Kapaun

I can’t think of a reason why the VR (if that’s what it is) would have the double wires.

Does the Black wire go to the key switch? Pull off the connector and also the carb fuel solenoid wire

Check with your OHM meter and see if they are the same circuit. IF they are, then the center would be your DC output. (and it would be a VR) The Black wire would be going to the key switch, with the carb solenoid Teed off of it.

Typically, you have 2 (same color) wires that come from under the shroud (stator) and are the AC input TO the VR.

See if one (each) of those wires goes up under the shroud. You might even remove the tin to look if they are the stator wires.

poulan, 960460075, 500cc, 6-speed, lawn

Poulan pro riding mower battery

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Check the fuse

If the ground side of the circuit is okay, we’ll check the hot side of the circuit that begins with the small red wire on the starter solenoid terminal and ends at the white wire that connects to the coil spade.

The circuit includes a fuse, the ignition switch, brake switch and blade switch.

First, we’ll check for a blown fuse because you can usually see a blown fuse just by looking at it.

The fuse in this mower is right here next to the starter solenoid, but we need to pull out the battery and battery box to access the fuse.

Move the zip tie over and pull the fuse from the holder.

If you find the fuse element broken like this, replace the fuse because it’s definitely blown.

If you’re unsure whether the fuse is blown, check for continuity through the fuse using your multimeter. Place one meter probe on each of the fuse leads to measure resistance through the fuse. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the fuse. If you measure infinite resistance, replace the fuse because it’s blown.

Keep in mind that the fuse blew because of a short in a component or wiring. Follow the steps in this video to determine the cause of a blown fuse and fix the problem so the fuse doesn’t blow again soon after you replace it.

If the fuse is okay, reinstall it in the holder and secure it with the zip tie.

Test the ignition switch

Next, we’ll check continuity through the red wire from the starter solenoid post to the ignition switch.

  • Open the mower hood.
  • Pull the wire harness off the ignition switch.
  • Release the locking tabs on the ignition switch and push it out of the dash.
  • Push the wire harness plug through the hole so you can easily access the contacts for testing.
  • With the multimeter set to measure resistance, place one meter probe on the starter solenoid post with the red wire and the other meter probe on the female plug spade with the red wire attached.

You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through this section of wiring. If you measure infinite resistance, find and repair the break in the red wire.

If this section of wiring is okay, we’ll test the ignition switch next.

When you turn the key to start the engine, internal ignition switch contacts should complete a circuit from the red wire on the B terminal to the white wire on the S terminal.

To test the ignition switch, we’ll measure the resistance between terminals B and S with the key turned to the start position. With the multimeter set to measure resistance, touch one meter probe to the B prong on the back of the ignition switch and the other meter probe to the S prong. Turn the key to start the engine and check the resistance in your meter display.

You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance. If you measure infinite resistance, then replace the ignition switch because it isn’t closing the contact B to S to send voltage to the solenoid coil.

Test the brake interlock switch

If the ignition switch is okay, then we’ve isolated the circuit break to the section of white wire that includes the brake switch and blade switch.

We’ll check the brake switch first. To give you a better view, we’ve removed the hood.

  • To access the brake switch, remove the air duct mounting screws and pull off the air duct.
  • Carefully move the fuel tank out of the way. Drain some fuel from the tank if it’s too heavy to lift.
  • Next, remove the lower right dash fastener and pull off the lower dash. Now you can get to the brake switch for testing.
  • Note the prongs that the white wires connect to because those are the prongs that we’ll check resistance through to determine whether the brake switch is okay.
  • Pull the wire harness off the brake switch.
  • With your multimeter set to check resistance, touch one meter probe to one prong and the other meter probe to the other prong that connects to the white wires.

You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance if the brake switch is okay.

If you measure infinite resistance, replace the brake switch because it’s broken. Here’s a video that shows how.

Check the blade switch

If the brake switch is okay, we’ll check the blade switch.

  • Remove the clutch lever assembly mounting screws and pull the assembly down slightly to access the blade switch.
  • Note the prongs that the white wires connect to and then disconnect the wire harness from the blade switch.
  • With your multimeter set to check resistance, touch the meter probes to the prongs that the white wire connected to.

The multimeter should show near 0 ohms of resistance if the blade switch is okay. If it measures infinite resistance, replace the blade switch because it’s broken.

If the blade switch is okay, then there’s a break in the white wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid coil that’s preventing the coil from getting power. Find and repair the wiring break.

Now that you’ve gotten through all of our troubleshooting tips, you should be able to start your mower. Now you can get to the real work of mowing your lawn!

I hope this video helps you out today. Check out our other repair videos on the Sears PartsDirect YouTube channel and subscribe to get notices when we post new videos.