The presence of a shock mechanism and a larger number of friction parts and gear parts (in a special crankcase) leads to the fact that for the normal functioning of the tool it becomes of great importance punch lubricant, filling gear housing.
Why do I have to lubricate a rotary hammer?
Modern perforators, depending on the class, can be used for drilling, drilling and chiselling even in hard materials such as concrete. All of these modes, except for increased noise, during work lead to the release of a large amount of dust, fine stone chips, etc.
Such extreme conditions often force the device to be cleaned and lubricated. Typically, two types of grease are recommended for use: grease for the punch gearbox and for drill tips, drills, and other interchangeable nozzles. At the same time, a more liquid oil is used to lubricate the gearbox.
For most models, the instructions for use indicate the timing and frequency of the oil change. Accordingly, in the case of perforators there are special hatches and holes for filling oils, which are closed by sealed covers or screws.
Punch lubricant: how to choose?
As a rule, there is no problem with choosing the type of oil for high-quality rotary hammers of famous manufacturers. The instructions indicate what oil to put into the hammer, in what quantity. But what if there is no such data? It is recommended to use oil for diesel engines.
Along with this, the tool heats up more. In order for the rotary hammer oil to enter these zones again, it is necessary to periodically (every 20 minutes) switch to the drilling mode, thereby ensuring not only the lubrication of the rubbing parts, but also their cooling. Obviously, such a change of modes will favorably affect the long-term performance of the punch.
Video: What is the Lubricant For Hammer Drill Bits
How to lubricate the punch yourself?
Knowing how to lubricate the punch gearbox, however, it is important to do this at regular intervals. How often do I need to change the oil, how should I be guided, and how to determine when the replacement deadlines are? Experts recommend doing this with an eye to the instructions, but be guided by the practical side and, first of all, by the intensity of using the tool, the magnitude of the loads when performing work, the conditions for their implementation (dustiness including).
Preventive replacement is recommended after changing the motor brushes. Although an experienced master in sound and increased rigidity of the instrument is able to determine the need for an oil change.
Before lubricating the punch, it is necessary to clarify whether the warranty period has expired. Because not all models have access to the gear housing in the form of a hatch or hole. And in this case, it may be necessary to disassemble the case. It is better to entrust it to the specialists of the service center. Especially if the tool is still under warranty.
When lubricating the gearbox yourself, you must first remove the old one. To do this, the crankcase is washed with kerosene, diesel fuel or liquid engine oil (“spindle”). If you have to disassemble the case, the mechanism can be pre-purged to remove accumulated dust and dirt. Remember that by blowing and washing the mechanisms, you should lubricate everything that had been lubricated before (for example, helical gear), and that it did not have it, in no case should it be lubricated (for example, a gear clutch).
An exemplary procedure involves the preparation of lubricants. As the latter, it is recommended to use greases from the manufacturer of the drill, despite their higher cost. Perhaps, in the absence of a proprietary one, the most universal lubricant for a drill of a perforator is the well-known lithol.
In relation to drill shanks and other interchangeable nozzles, experts unanimously recommend covering them with a small amount (not more than a pea) of lubricant, for example, lithol or solid oil. This must be done every time before installation in the chuck.
After removing the nozzle, the shank must be cleaned cleanly from accumulating dust. By the way, the choice of lubricant, especially for shanks, must be done with caution, avoiding oils that can cause adhesion due to heating of the nozzle and jamming of the shock mechanism.