In order for the drywall construction to become finished, it must be puttied. How to putty drywall, draw corners, repair joints. about everything in this article.
Do I need to putty drywall?
Nobody wants to do extra work. In addition, putty is a long difficult process that takes a lot of time. A reasonable question arises. why putty the even surface of drywall sheets. Maybe with the finish you can do without it? With some types of finishes it is possible, but not with all.
It is always necessary to close up the joints of sheets, corners and caps of self-tapping screws. Under any type of finish. Be sure to putty GKL for painting. The drywall surface is far from ideal, and new irregularities are added during transportation and installation. If you paint the surface without prior alignment, they will all be clearly visible, especially if there is even a small degree of gloss.
Preparation of drywall for wallpapering. you can only putty the seams, after priming the surface
Knauf. one of the leaders in the production of drywall. allows for tile and wallpaper not to putty the entire surface of the sheets. Only joints, corners and screws. No one putsty under the tile, but yes, under the wallpaper. And all because the wallpaper pasted without pre-processing in some places comes off along with cardboard and sometimes to plaster. So the second time putty is simply inevitable.
You can do without puttying the entire surface of the sheet using a primer. In this case, the primer is water-dispersed acrylic paint diluted with water. It creates a film on the surface with which the adhesive interacts well, but also this film does not damage the cardboard when tearing off the wallpaper.
Putty must be putty for painting, drywall completely, and to an ideal state
So, it is absolutely necessary to putty drywall completely for painting, preferably for wallpapering (at least in one layer) and seal only self-tapping screws and seams under the tile.
Gisarton primer: why, what and when
The primer has two different functions. First, it improves the adhesion (adhesion) of the two materials. As a result, during puttying, the chances of bubble formation and material peeling are reduced. The second function. it evens out the absorbing ability. The result is less material consumption, and when puttying a more even surface. So it is undesirable to pass the primer.
Primed during finishing work, in theory, it is necessary before each new operation. For example, before puttying, a primer for drywall sheets is needed to improve adhesion with puttying. Before painting or wallpapering. to reduce the consumption of paint and glue. A primer is also needed before applying the topcoat. you have to level the starting coat, which makes the surface dusty. Without soil treatment, the finish layer lays down poorly, rolls, and can even fall off.
Ceresit drywall primer is also suitable for interior use.
What primers are needed? Depends on the stage and on the type of finishing material:
- Before puttying the drywall (start and finish), a deep penetration primer is used or for porous, well-absorbing surfaces.
- The same composition can be used before painting and wallpapering.
- Under the wallpaper, the plastered GKL surface can be primed with wallpaper glue diluted with water. Proportions are indicated on the package with glue.
- For painting, you need to look at the recommendations of the manufacturers. Sometimes the primer is paint diluted with water. If no other indications are available, use deep penetration composition.
To summarize, it is worth saying that the primer is a necessary operation. It allows you to get a good result and reduce material consumption.
Technology: Workflow
After the GKL sheets are fixed on the frame, it is time for the preparation of drywall for the finish. Consider the full-cycle case. for painting. In this case, plasterboard must be putty in at least two layers. For other types of finishes that are less demanding on surface quality, we simply remove unnecessary steps. The order of work is as follows:
- Primer deep penetration.
- Sealing holes from screws.
- Putty joints using a net-sickle or special paper tape.
- Sealing corners. external and internal.
- Drywall primer.
- Puttying the entire surface with the starting compound and polishing irregularities.
- Drywall primer.
- Hard putty with finishing composition and hard putty of irregularities.
- Finishing primer.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard putty. we study the nuances
A few words about which putty is better to use for drywall. Any one will do. based on gypsum or polymers (latex). Polymer putties are usually finishing. they give a very thin layer and a flat surface. Gypsum is both starting and finishing. The difference in particle size. You can use any, if only the quality was good.
There are two forms of plasterboard putty release. dry in bags and diluted in buckets. Dry before use should be diluted with water in the indicated proportions and stirred until the lumps dissolve. Compositions in buckets are already ready for work, but cost more. But guaranteedly do not have lumps.
Primer coating
Before plastering plasterboard, primer the surface. Any soil is applied to a dry, clean base. Therefore, we first remove pollution from the surface, remove dust (you can use a vacuum cleaner or a slightly damp cloth). After this, we prepare the soil according to the instructions (sometimes it is necessary to dilute with water, sometimes just stir it), pour it into a container and apply with a brush or roller.
Primer application: choose a method convenient for you
Drywall primer is for dry and wet rooms. For the bathroom and kitchen, choose the soil for wet rooms, for the rest you can use any. When choosing a soil, pay attention to the presence of antibacterial components. They prevent the development of mold and mildew. This is especially true for the kitchen and bathroom.
| Title | Consumption | Appointment | Drying time | Additional properties | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Penetrating Primer Optimum (10 L) | 6-8 sq.m / l | For priming brick, concrete, drywall in dry rooms. | 30-40 min | 600 rubles per 10 kg | |
| GLIMS Grunt / GLIMS Grunt (10 L) | 5 sq.m / l | For rooms with normal and high humidity | 30 minutes | Antifungal and anti-mold additives | 600 rub for 10 l |
| Tex Station wagon primer acrylate | 5-14 sq.m / l | For priming porous surfaces, including gypsum plaster and puttying surfaces | 30-40 min | For dry rooms and rooms with high humidity | 650 rub for 10 l |
| Primer internal Prospectors 10l | 5-10 sq.m / l | For priming porous surfaces, including gypsum plaster and puttying surfaces | 60 min | Antifungal and anti-mold additives | 350-400 rub for 10 l |
| Feidal Tiefgrund LF 10 L | 10 sqm / l | For highly absorbent surfaces, including drywall | quick drying | For indoor and outdoor use, frost resistant | 850 rub for 10 l |
Typically, for priming drywall, it is enough to apply the composition in one layer, but in the kitchen or bathroom, two can be: to guarantee the result. After the soil has dried (time is indicated in the instructions), you can proceed to the next step.
Sealing screws and seams
For seams there are special compounds Knauf-Fugen, Knauf Uniflot, Fugenfuller and their analogues. After the soil has dried, we spread the putty to the consistency of thick sour cream. Please note that these putty dries quickly, so at a time dilute a small amount.
We take a small spatula, apply the composition to the installation sites of the screws, remove the excess. Putties in this place should be exactly so that the surface is flat. Thus we go through all the screws. They can be repaired in parallel with the seams, but you can. in the first place. It does not matter.
The principle of work with putty. a roller from the composition is laid on the edge of the spatula, then it is stretched in the right place
Drywall joints are of two types. Along the long side of the GCR, the edges are uneven. for an easier termination of this joint. But the sheets are connected and in height, where there are no ledges. You also have to cut the sheets and the connection is also obtained end-to-end. Such compounds require special technology and about it a little lower.
Vertical joints
When plastering the vertical joints of drywall with normal factory edges, they are first carefully filled, then glued.
After filling, while the composition has not yet dried, it is glued with a net of serpentine or paper reinforcing tape. This is necessary so that cracks form at the joints. If you use a tape, it is torn into the necessary pieces, soaked in clean water for 10 minutes (until the seam is filled).
Tape recessed to desired distance
After filling the seam, the tape is pulled out, holding between the fingers remove excess water, stick to the seam. After they take a spatula with a width of 8 cm (always such) and press the tape below the surface of the gypsum plaster. She “sits” on one of the factory ledges. The indentation begins from the middle to the edges. When pressed, putty is squeezed out from under the tape, we collect it. As a result, if you attach a wide hard spatula to the surface (at least 20 cm wide), you can see that the tape is below the surface of the cardboard. Then they again pass putty, aligning the joint to a level with the surface.
Trim seams
Putty drywall in places of horizontal joints. where two plates are connected or on vertical, but without edges, it is better after preliminary processing. First, the surface is moistened with water. dip the brush in water and grease the joint well. Walk a few times. so that the plaster gets wet. Then cut the grooves with a sharp knife at an angle of 45 °. The processing of these joints can be carried out before the primer. It is even more convenient.
Video: Which Spool To Choose For Electric Trimmer
Preparing joints for putty
We coat the prepared joints with soil. In this case, it is more convenient to use a brush. After drying, fill the seam with a composition for puttying the joints of drywall. It is more convenient to work with spatulas with a width of 10 cm and a rigid one of 20 cm. We apply the composition to small ones, remove excesses with large ones. We fill it well by pressing the composition into the seam. If you did everything right, a small roller forms, slightly bulging above the surface.
Once again we pass the seam, applying fresh putty about 0.5 mm thick, take the soaked reinforcing tape and glue it to this composition. We take a spatula with a width of 8 cm and well press the tape to the surface, squeezing the excess putty from under it.
Hard putty of cut seams on GKL
In this case, a wave of paper forms (see the photo), we make sure that it does not jam, we catch it to the end, where it straightens out. We remove the excess solution in the tape and the adjacent area of the sheet. And the last stage. again we take the putty and with a thin layer we coat the glued tape on top. We make this layer as thin as possible, as they say. “on the seam”. Actually, the remaining putty is stretched with a very thin layer.
Second technology: first tape then putty
There is a second technology. first a serpyanka or paper reinforcing tape is glued onto gypsum, then it is puttyed. This happens faster, but the disadvantage is voids that remain under the tape. In these places, wallpaper may wrinkle or putty or decorative plaster may crack.
So paste a sickle on drywall
Instead of paper tape, they use a serpentine net. Serpyanka is more difficult to work with. it is tough and its edges often stick out from the solution. To make it a little easier, the mesh is pre-glued, after the glue has completely dried, it is puttyed. In order not to think about glue and speed up work, they use a self-adhesive sickle (there is one).
An example of a putty of a seam with a sickle
But, anyway, it is so more difficult to putty drywall. its surface is uneven, the spatula “jumps” on the fibers and a shallow wave is obtained, which is not easy to smooth out.
Outer and inner corners
The outer and inner corners on the walls and partitions of gypsum are made using:
- reinforcing paper;
- serpyanka;
- perforated aluminum corners;
- special metal corners of chitrock with paper.
There are different perforated corners, but it’s more convenient to work with the metal corner of Shitrok
Paper and serpyanka most often finish the internal corners. the junction of the walls, as well as the walls and ceiling. The technology is similar to grouting. A certain amount of putty is applied to the corner, paper or sickle is glued on it, a reinforcing strip is pressed into the composition with a narrow spatula, the excess putty is removed. After that, they again pass the corner, applying putty with a thin layer on top.
Perforated corners are used to design the outer corners. slopes, protrusions, etc. First, a piece of the desired length is cut. The metal is very thin, cut even with ordinary large scissors, but if there are metal scissors it’s easier to work. The edges are cut at an angle of 45 ° or less, and not at 90 °. So, when puttying drywall, the edge will not wrap.
Making the outer corners of drywall using a perforated corner
Puttying on small islands is approximately every 10 cm on the outer corner from two sides (can be done in a checkerboard pattern). A perforated corner is pressed into the solution, the vertical or horizontal position of its installation is checked, and corrected. Pick up the excess solution with a spatula, aligning the edges in one plane with the surface of the sheet. The installed corner is left for some time. until the putty dries, after which it is ground, putty again if necessary.
What is the difference between the Sheetrock metal corner? Thin strips of metal are applied on a paper base. They are more rigid than simple reinforcing paper, but it’s more convenient to work with them than with ordinary perforated ones, since due to the presence of paper the transition to a plane is smoother.
Grinding joints and corners
If the layer is well aligned during the repair of drywall joints, sanding can be minimized. Why is it better to grind less? Because firstly, it is a long time, and secondly it is dusty. over, the dust is very fine, it flies in the air for a long time and rises again from any movement. To reduce the amount of flying dust, wet rags, wet sawdust, etc. can be laid on the floor. Doors leading from the premises are covered with a wet cloth; it should be larger than the size of the door. so that dust does not fly into other rooms.
To begin with, you can walk with a sharp, even spatula, cut off all the most prominent bumps. Next is the grinding process. Since it is not necessary to clean the corners and seams at this stage to perfect smoothness, they take a mesh for grinding with a cell for 180-200 and a wooden block. A grid is attached to the bar (you can use brackets from a construction stapler, but the brackets should not stick out). This device level the surface. When working, it is desirable to highlight it with an oblique light. so all the irregularities are more visible. But you can not putty drywall under the wallpaper carefully.
There are special grips for the net, but you can get by with a bar
One point is to grind better in a respirator and goggles. Gloves will not be superfluous. The dust is very fine and penetrates literally everywhere. After the seams and corners are sanded, the surface is primed again. over, all completely, since dust also settled on untreated areas, and it impairs adhesion.
The most inconvenient places for putty and grinding are internal corners. The secrets of fast high-quality grinding of corners see in the next video.
How to putty drywall: align the plane
To putty surfaces you will need a large spatula. with a blade of 40 cm or more and a narrow one. 10 cm. The first coat is applied with a starting putty. It is laid with a layer of about 5 mm (the maximum must be seen in the instructions for the particular putty) and hides all the bumps. Dilute it with water to a thick sour cream, stir thoroughly so that there are no lumps.
Such spatulas are needed for plasterboard plastering over the entire surface.
The technique of puttying the surface of the drywall is simple: take a large spatula, at its end with a small spatula, put the roller out of the putty. Press the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. Repeat several times, filling a piece of the wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade, and draw along the just putty surface, leveling it. It is necessary to level as carefully as possible. less time will be required for grinding.
When the plasterboard is finished putty, wait until it dries. Then you take an already familiar tool. a bar with a grid and align all the flaws. Grinding is finished, remove dust, surface pass again with a deep penetration primer. After drying, start applying the second layer.
So hold the spatula
Next, plasterboard must be putty with a finishing composition. As they wrote, it can also be based on gypsum, like the starting one, and maybe based on polymers. Both are suitable, but it’s more difficult to work with some. they quickly begin to slide and freeze.
Finishing putty is made more liquid and applied with a thinner layer. The application technique is similar, nothing changes. In addition, it is more difficult to work. it is worse spread, but you need to stretch it with a thin layer and quickly level it. Everything is much better on the primer, and without it, the bottom layer quickly draws moisture from the fresh plaster and it begins to roll. After applying the finishing putty, wait again until everything is dry, then begin to level. But this time they’re using not a mesh. noticeable grooves remain from it, but sandpaper with fine grain. It is not so convenient to work with it. it quickly clogs, but the surface turns out to be smooth. If you prepare the surface for painting, we do the backlighting from below or from the side and you can use not an incandescent lamp, but an LED. all flaws are visible. Even very small ones.
It is difficult to describe how to put drywall drywall in words. it is difficult to describe movements. In the video you can see how to hold the spatula, how to move it, how to apply or remove the solution. See technology in detail in the video.
When laying tiles on the floor or walls, the master uses several tools. One of them is a glue spatula. Use it to remove excess mixture. Thus, due to the uniform distribution of the solution on the surface, it can be saved. It is worth approaching the choice of a tool responsibly, since different spatulas will be needed for different types of work. Particular attention should be paid to the material of the tool, the shape of the teeth and size.
Also, do not forget about convenience. The tool should lie tightly in the hand, because otherwise the master will quickly rub the corns and will not be able to work long and fruitfully. If the budget is limited, you will have to look for budget options, but in the future this may affect the quality of the tile.
Varieties of spatulas for floor glue and their application
Toothed spatulas for floor glue are necessary so that while pressing the tiles to the floor or wall, the mixture is distributed evenly and fills the voids. If the binder solution is applied smoothly, when pressed, excess glue will come out from one or all sides of the tile. Using this styling tool, the master will be able to achieve maximum adhesion of the material to the surface.
Toothed combs are also necessary for:
- connection reliability;
- uniform distribution of the solution on the surface;
- saving mixture;
- increase the speed of work.
If the master has to constantly remove excess glue, this will negatively affect the speed of his work, especially when it comes to large volumes. In addition, the absence of a notched trowel will provoke cost overruns and financial losses.
When choosing a tool, it is worth remembering that there are different types, for example, for parquet glue and tile laying. In the second case, the buyer will have the opportunity to choose one of 4 types of tools.
For laying tiles
When choosing a comb, you need to pay attention to the type of work, the size and width of the tile, as well as the laying area. The notched trowel A2 for 4×4 floor glue is used on equal footing on the back of the material, and the tile size should not exceed 10X10 centimeters. If glass tiles with a thickness of 4 mm are used, it is recommended to use a spatula with 3X3 mm teeth. In this case, about 1.5 kilograms of glue will take out per square meter of tile.
The second option for tile adhesive is a tool with 6X6 mm slots. It is suitable if you use tiles larger than 10X10 centimeters with an uneven back surface for laying. This tool is best suited for 20 cm tiles. Regarding the cost of glue, per square meter you will need from 2 to 3 kilograms.
For a tile size of 30X30 centimeters, an 8X8 crouton will be needed, since it is precisely it that is best suited here for floor finishing material. The glue consumption will increase by a maximum of 1 kilogram, if compared with the previous version. Spatulas with cutouts 10X10 are suitable for wide and large tiles from 30 cm on one side. For one square meter of finish you have to spend about 6 kilograms of solution.
For parquet glue
A spatula for parquet glue is not much different from previous styling tools. There are 2 types of combs suitable for this type of work. with small or large teeth. The first option is suitable in cases where the mixture must be applied on a flat base. A large-blade spatula is respectively used for uneven bases and for fastening large-format elements.
For glue under linoleum
To linoleum lay evenly, especially if the room has high humidity, it is fixed with a special composition. The type of spatula for glue for linoleum, which is suitable for this work, depends on the type of mixture. In addition, do not forget about saving the adhesive composition:
- if it was decided to use bustilate for laying linoleum, for this work it is recommended to purchase a notched plastic spatula to evenly distribute the solution layer on the floor surface;
- PVA glue is also suitable for different types of flooring. In addition to linoleum, this can include carpet, particleboard and fiberboard. For application, you can use a spatula, roller or brush;
- a comb comb should definitely be used if it comes to laying linoleum in strips;
- an acrylic or dispersion glue pad will only be needed when working on one side of the floor.
Which spatula is better
If the master does not yet have much experience in laying tiles, it is difficult for him to choose a good spatula, given the thickness of the adhesive composition and the length of the teeth. Almost all professionals note that in the arsenal of the master, tools with different tooth lengths and shapes should be present. This is due to the fact that the surface on which you have to lay the tile may be uneven.
If there are recesses on the floor, the cladding will have to be laid on a thick layer of the mixture so that it is possible to get rid of the tilt of the floor. Experienced craftsmen do not recommend buying spatulas made of plastic, when it comes to large volumes of work that must be completed as quickly and efficiently as possible. In addition, such a tool is in poor contact with the adhesive and quickly becomes unusable due to the gradual grinding of the teeth.
After finishing, you need to do grouting. To do this, you need to purchase another scapula. When choosing a tool, it is worth considering the elasticity of the material from which it is made. The holder should be comfortable, since grouting takes a lot of time. A tool with a plastic or wooden hand is better not to buy.
The size of the trowel teeth depends on the size of the tile, and as for the shape, it is chosen based on the thickness of the solution, which will be enough to even out the bumps. Masters with great experience are not advised to save on this tool. If the work has to be redone, it will provoke large financial losses.