Looking at Gravely ZT HD. any good??
So here’s the deal. I have my John Deere X738 tractor with 54” HC deck. Mows great and not getting rid of it. I use it for my 8-10 weekly accounts. Fits all my properties and mows nicely. But. we are closing on our new acreage in 25 days. It will include mowing/maintaining 4.8 acres. Lots of wide-open area and quite a few trees. My wife is concerned I’m gonna spend all my time mowing and never be inside. So. to keep her happy and free up a bit of time. I’m thinking a zero-turn mower is in the near future. Was looking at a 540R Deere but my local dealer actually steered me away from them and said the commercial ones are great, but residential not good. So he’s pushing me towards a Gravely ZT HD 60”. I could also use it on a few of my client’s yards. Reviews seem pretty favorable and put the door price of 5600 with 0% financing for 3 years.
2021 Gravely ProTurn 660 Kawasaki FXV1000 Honda 21″ push mower with twin blades/self-propelled STIHL RB 600 power washer STIHL FS131R Trimmer STIHL BG86C Blower STIHL MS361/461 saws CenPeCo synthetic oils Williamsburg, Iowa
JayinKs
I think for what you described your intentions are it would work fine. I have no actual experience myself with the ZTHD but a local guy runs 3 or 4 of them commercially. They seem to be holding up well and he has about 175 accounts. I’ve spoke with him and he said he likes them and has had no problems yet. He’s had them 2yrs now, maybe a little more.
I think for what you described your intentions are it would work fine. I have no actual experience myself with the ZTHD but a local guy runs 3 or 4 of them commercially. They seem to be holding up well and he has about 175 accounts. I’ve spoke with him and he said he likes them and has had no problems yet. He’s had them 2yrs now, maybe a little more.
Thank you for the reply. From what I’ve read and been watching on YouTube. they seem like a pretty solid mower and the price is pretty hard to beat. Will definitely get the Kawasaki engine as well.
2021 Gravely ProTurn 660 Kawasaki FXV1000 Honda 21″ push mower with twin blades/self-propelled STIHL RB 600 power washer STIHL FS131R Trimmer STIHL BG86C Blower STIHL MS361/461 saws CenPeCo synthetic oils Williamsburg, Iowa
GoPappy
Does the ZTHD have the X-Factor II deck? If so, do a search on here. The 60’s seem to have more issues with blowing clumps than the 52’s do.
Does the ZTHD have the X-Factor II deck? If so, do a search on here. The 60’s seem to have more issues with blowing clumps than the 52’s do.
I don’t think it is. Not sure on that though. I didn’t think I would ever even consider a ZT mower until the dealership pushed me away from the JD ZT’s. The Gravelys do look like a treat mower and I think I could mow that 4.8 acres in about half the time. I could then have the wifey help too on the JD!!
2021 Gravely ProTurn 660 Kawasaki FXV1000 Honda 21″ push mower with twin blades/self-propelled STIHL RB 600 power washer STIHL FS131R Trimmer STIHL BG86C Blower STIHL MS361/461 saws CenPeCo synthetic oils Williamsburg, Iowa
JayinKs
2021 Gravely ProTurn 660 Kawasaki FXV1000 Honda 21″ push mower with twin blades/self-propelled STIHL RB 600 power washer STIHL FS131R Trimmer STIHL BG86C Blower STIHL MS361/461 saws CenPeCo synthetic oils Williamsburg, Iowa
sbronemann
2021 Gravely ProTurn 660 Kawasaki FXV1000 Honda 21″ push mower with twin blades/self-propelled STIHL RB 600 power washer STIHL FS131R Trimmer STIHL BG86C Blower STIHL MS361/461 saws CenPeCo synthetic oils Williamsburg, Iowa
Trust me. I really wanted a Deere and still might demo one. But the guy has been selling Deere stuff for almost 10 years in the turf section. He is very knowledgeable. And to be honest-I’m not that impressed with the 54” HC deck. It mows well, but one of my accounts neighbor has a company with Gravelys and their cut is superior from my limited sample.
2021 Gravely ProTurn 660 Kawasaki FXV1000 Honda 21″ push mower with twin blades/self-propelled STIHL RB 600 power washer STIHL FS131R Trimmer STIHL BG86C Blower STIHL MS361/461 saws CenPeCo synthetic oils Williamsburg, Iowa
Gump_Runner
Trust me. I really wanted a Deere and still might demo one. But the guy has been selling Deere stuff for almost 10 years in the turf section. He is very knowledgeable. And to be honest-I’m not that impressed with the 54″ HC deck. It mows well, but one of my accounts neighbor has a company with Gravelys and their cut is superior from my limited sample.[/QUOTE Hands down get the Deere.
Trust me. I really wanted a Deere and still might demo one. But the guy has been selling Deere stuff for almost 10 years in the turf section. He is very knowledgeable. And to be honest-I’m not that impressed with the 54″ HC deck. It mows well, but one of my accounts neighbor has a company with Gravelys and their cut is superior from my limited sample.
If you can demo both the Gravely ZT HD and the Deere 540R, that would be a big plus for you. But I sure wouldn’t discount what the dealer’s advise was to you either. if you know him well and trust his advise.
Must Know Gravely Zero Turn Mowers Hydraulic Problems (Solution Added!)
Gravely, as a successful brand has been serving the tractor industry for a long time. But consumers do face some obvious problems and issues, which can be a bit technical. You might think how hard that will be?
There is not much to worry about. I have gathered some of the problems and briefly described the solution in the article accordingly.
Here I have decided to discuss some of the common issues that you might face with Gravely zero turn hydraulic mowers.
Hydrostatic Transmission Problem:
Hydrostatic transmission is a serious concern for zero-turn mowers. But it’s not so vicious if you notice it before the harm is done.
It basically happens when the air takes the place over oil. If the machine is full of air instead of oil, it cannot provide the power the engine needs.
This is one of the general issues along the way. But you must warm it up before starting a new season.
So, better sort it out or you are going to have a sluggish starting of the season.
I have explained below some steps to get rid of the transmission issue:
Check the Tires
You must check the tires if they are aired perfectly as per the specs. The correct air pressure level is an important concern for your safety that cannot be overlooked. Mostly, when you ride a Hydraulic mower.
The Correct Fluid
Try to use the branded fluid recommended by your manufacturer. Standard hydraulic oil works for some mowers but it is always suggested to use the branded one. It can make a big difference.
Must Check Tips
There are some certain places of the mower that need to be checked quite in a while. For the betterment, do it periodically.
Checking the oil levels: Check if the oil level is at the recommended level by your expert. Add or lose if needed.
Looking for leaks: This can be really hazardous for the health of the engine. Check for leaks or damages and repair them as necessary.
Checking the air filter: Check if the filter is dirty with dust or other things. If so, then clean or change it as required.
Tough to Operate on Wet Ground
It’s really difficult to operate a zero-turn mower in sloppy or wet grounds.
But there are some precautions you might want to check out before getting yourself stuck-
- Start with an easy manner and a gentle speed while driving over the grass.
- Look out for bumpy areas like medium-sized stones.
- Adding some weights to the tires can do a good job.
- Check out the tire air pressure and keep it at the recommended PSI level.
- If it’s too muddy then avoid mowing for the day.
Well, besides these, follow the instructions that are given by your manufacturer. It can be wearing protection for your head.
Emission Problems
Emission problems can be a bit tricky but you can solve them by following some tricks-
- Try to go with the new models, they have the lower smog feature added.
- Mow at a lower speed.
- Make sure that the mower is in tiptop condition
Besides them, you can also change the blades for a better outcome. Here is how to change the blades of a zero-turn mower:
N.B.: Before starting, wear thick gardening gloves to keep your hands safe.
Step 01: Disconnect the plug wires. Then park your mower on level ground, now you are all set to remove the blade belt.
Step 02: By removing the blade belt, it gives you access to the blades. Lower the ZT’s deck to the lowest setting.
Step 03: Now it’s your turn to remove the cutting deck. First, you have to disconnect the mounting pins.
Then you must release the hanging brackets from the deck.
Finally, to pull the deck out, you have to push the mower deck a bit forward and now you can release the deck from the front bracket.
Step 04: Next, you need to remove the mower cutting blades. You will have to turn over the mower deck to access the cutting blades.
Then, to avoid the blade turning while you are working with the bolt, place a block of wood (preferable size) between the deck and the cutting blade.
Remove the bolt setting up the cutting blade with a wrench. Rotate it anti-clockwise and execute the cutting blade. Don’t forget the bolt/nut, you will need it to fit back the deck.
Step 05: It’s time to set up the new blades. Position the new blade (it should be marked which side to go first) on the shaft and put back the bolt.
Then squeeze it with your wrench until the blade is placed properly.
Step 06: Now to put the mower deck back in its place. Flip the mower deck and place it back in.
Before reconnecting the mounting pins to secure the deck, reinstall the front bracket and the hanging brackets properly.
Step 07: The final step is to reconnect the blade belt. You have to reconnect the drive belt onto your unit’s electric clutch.
Then push back your blade belt in its place over the blade pulley on the left side. Organize the pulley cover as it was before.
Now that the new blades are set, plug the mower in and test it to see if it’s satisfying or not.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):
Is a gravely zero turn mower good?
Gravely holds a noticeable place in the tractor business. They are proudly providing the consumers the best mowers yet at a reasonable price. If you are new at this, Gravely ZT mowers are the best ones to start with.
When should I change the hydraulic fuel on my zero-turn mower?
It is suggested by the experts to change the hydraulic fuel and the filter after the first 75 hours of performance and then every 400 hours after. But do check the filter frequently to prevent the dust blockage. Replace it if required.
Verdict
Gravely always tries to deliver the best features within a really good budget. They are quite popular for the quality products they offer. But there are always limitations to the technical products. You never know what’s coming for you.
However, some problems are pretty basic and can easily be resolved. I have discussed some of them in the article. You can also contact the gravely support teams, they have a good response rate on that too.
How to Manually Push a Gravely Zero Turn Mower
When your seasoned Gravely zero turn mower stops working in the middle of a mowing job, it becomes a troublesome problem to deal with. One of the primary features of a zero turn mower is security, once it stops moving, the hydrostatic engine locks the wheels preventing it from moving. This is great for everyone’s safety but not so for maintenance. I know how frustrating it must be to stop in the middle of mowing and figure out what caused it to stop. However, you need to move your mower someplace secure first before you start inspecting it. So, I offer you a simple and easy guide on how to manually push a Gravely Zero Turn Mower.
How to Properly Mow Your Lawn with a Gravely Zero Turn Mower
Most mowers can handle small pebbles, but larger stones can really cause a problem to your mower/ it can get lodged in your mowing deck, bend your blades, get into parts of your machine, and cause serious damage. Doing a primary inspection of your property, especially for a smaller piece of land will really help your mower.
Always make sure that when you’re mowing, you discharge your clipping on the mowed path. This can save your mower from a lot of future problems. Mainly because discharging clippings on the path you’re about to mow will lessen the number of clippings it will gather back into your mowing deck.
How to Manually Push Your Gravely Zero Turn Mower
Yes, it is. Compared to other mowers, the process is quite simple. The Gravely has transaxles bypass levers that prevent your mower from manually moving after it stops or stalls.
Before pushing
- Try starting your engine again, if you only hear clicks every time you turn it on, you don’t have any power to start up the machine. Put a wedge or a tire stopper to prevent your mower from moving if you’re on uneven ground.
- You need to stop the engine by putting both your lap bars in neutral and pushing them outwards.
- Engage your parking brake and turn off your PTO (Power Take Off) knob to prevent your mowing deck from operating.
- Then, set your throttle to the lowest speed possible.
- Turn off your ignition and let your mower cool down.
NOTE: Always make sure that you let your mower cool down. Once you’ve been mowing for quite a while your engine gets extremely hot and can be a possible danger to you as you push your mower manually. Giving your machine a few minutes to cool, it also allows all moving parts of your mower to completely stop.
When pushing
- Once your engine cools down, go behind your engine and look for your transaxles bypass levers. There will be two levers, one on each hydrostatic engine.
- To bypass your hydrostatic engine, simply pull these levers outwards. Pulling it outwards will release the pressure on your rear wheels allowing it to move freely.
- Disengage your brakes and remove the wedge or wheel stopper.
- Push your engine to your desired position.
TIP: It’s better to push your engine from behind. Pulling can be dangerous. Since the bulk of the weight of your mower is at the back, you don’t have full control over the mower causing it to slide or speed up towards you. You need to push from behind to support the weight and reduce possible dangers like being run over when pulling your mower. See “ Are zero-turn mowers dangerous “ for more information.
Compared to most zero-turn mowers, a Gravely ZTR offers a more simplified task of moving your ZTR mower manually. Devoid of the complicated steps in manually moving your mower, simply pulling out your engine with a bypass lever can really make a difference. Don’t forget the tips I told you, these simple steps will surely prevent your engine from suffering and then stalling.
EL Mehdi (Medi), the founder and voice behind Desired Lawn Mower. He is a riding mower lover and has been active in the industry for years. He’s also an entrepreneur who owns and manages multiple helpful websites.
Carburetor Bowl Drain
Draining the carburetor bowl is a simple job. Many engine manufacturers include a separate drain bolt in the bowl which makes the whole job super easy. The carburetor fuel bowl is located behind the air filter and attached to the underside of the carburetor. The fuel bowl or gas bowl is a reservoir of fuel. Its job is to store enough gas to feed the engine.
The fuel bowl is designed to catch debris that makes it past the filter. And so that’s why we’ll attempt to drain it. There are two common types of fuel bowls, those that have a useful drain bolt and those that don’t.
Draining the bowl will release trapped dirt and air from the fuel system. It’s not a substitute for cleaning the carburetor but as said, very often draining the bowl for thirty seconds or so is enough to clear the debris.
Carburetor bowl drain bolt – This model has a drain bolt and so the bowl doesn’t necessarily need to be removed.
With the bowl drain removed, the gas should flow freely from the carb, if not check out the fuel filter and needle seat for possible blockage.
Carburetor bowl removal – This is a common BS engine and the bowl needs to be removed to drain the bowl.
In addition, it’s very important to clean the fuel feed bolt, this is the most common cause of no starts on this type of engine.
With the bowl removed, the gas should flow freely from the carb, if not check out the fuel filter and needle seat for possible blockage. If draining the bowl worked out for you, fantastic, but if it didn’t check out this guide on “Carburetor cleaning”.
Faulty Carburetor
It’s worth noting, small engine carburetors cause lots of issues. I replace a ton, the symptoms can vary widely.
But hot starting issues are definitely one of them. However, the customer usually complains about hard starting issues all the time, not just after running out of gas. Some carburetors will be very obviously damaged (corrosion) but most won’t show any visible signs of damage or wear.
A faulty carburetor is on the list of suspects and will move higher on the list if you have removed the carburetor, cleaned it, and it made no difference.
Contaminated Gas
It’s worth checking the gas can you used to fill the mower. We’ve all done it, put something other than gas in the mower. It’s a simple mistake especially if you’ve got some old gas cans from last season.
Gas only stays fresh for about a month, after that it can cause all sorts of running problems in a small engine. If you think your gas is the problem, go ahead and drain it out, put some fresh gas in and she should fire straight up. If she doesn’t go ahead and drain the gas bowl as per above.
If you find you don’t use up all the gas within a month, either buy less or use a gas stabilizer in the gas can. It keeps the gas fresh for up to two years, and better than that. It protects the fuel systems of all your small engine equipment, including a two-stroke kit.
Faulty Auto Choke
Auto choke is as you may know a feature that most modern mowers have as standard. Briggs and Stratton call theirs “Ready start”. The auto choke systems are very good but they aren’t without fault. Auto chokes can stick in the on position causing the engine to flood.
This however doesn’t have any relationship to a mower running out of gas, that may simply be a coincidence. A sticking auto choke can present as an intermittent issue or a constant. You can easily check if the choke is functioning correctly. Remove the air filter when the mower’s hot, the choke plate shouldn’t be closed.
Auto chokes “On” – This is the correct choke position for a cold engine, but not a hot one.
Faulty Coil
The final component on our list is the coil also known as the armature. The coil helps make the spark needed to ignite the gas inside the engine.
Coils have a tough job and are a common failure. A very common symptom of a failing coil is intermittent hot start problems. While I know this isn’t exactly a fit for your symptoms as a failing coil has no relationship with a mower running out of gas, but that’s why it’s at the end of our list.
You can easily and quickly check your mower for spark I’ve covered it in this post “Mower hard to start when hot”
Q: I can’t seem to figure out why my lawn mower won’t stay running. There’s plenty of gas and oil in it. Can it be repaired, or is it a lost cause?
A: Lawn mowers seem like simple machines, yet they require some TLC to operate smoothly—especially if they’ve been sitting in the shed for a while. A full gas tank and oil reservoir are the essential first steps when checking why the lawn mower won’t stay running, but the problem could also be a dirty filter, clogged carburetor, improper fuel mixture, or a dirty spark plug. If you’re ready to get your hands dirty, check out these troubleshooting tips to get your lawn mower running again. However, you may need a lawn mower specialist to get you back to trimming your grass. Alternatively, a landscaping professional can take care of it for you.
The fuel might be old and dirty and needs to be replaced.
Fuel that has sat in the motor for a while can evaporate and leave a sticky residue. The inlet and outlet ports leading to the carburetor could be clogged, as well as the fuel filter. In cold, wet winter seasons, condensation can collect inside the tank, which doesn’t mix with the fuel. Replace old, dirty, or diluted fuel; adding fresh fuel to it won’t solve the problem. Drain the old fuel out of the tank and collect it to be disposed of safely per local requirements. Clean off the carburetor ports before refilling the tank.
The air filter might be dirty, which prevents it from getting enough air.
Motors have air filters to collect and trap dust and debris that could clog the machine’s inner workings. Over time, they become clogged and need to be replaced. If an air filter isn’t working correctly, the motor can’t get enough air to prevent overheating. Inspect the air filter for carbon deposits or oil, and replace it if it’s contaminated. Paper filters always need immediate replacement if they’re contaminated, but a dusty foam filter could benefit from being washed and dried at least once before replacement. It’s recommended to replace the air filter after every 25 hours of use.
The carburetor might be clogged and dirty.
One inconvenient reason a lawn mower won’t stay running is a problem with the carburetor, which mixes the air and fuel for internal combustion. The carburetor bowl may be clogged, or the inlet and outlet ports are slimy from fuel residue. Remove them and spray them with an aerosolized carburetor cleaner (not water). You can try disconnecting the fuel lines and spraying them out with cleaner to remove any sitting sludge as well. Replacing the fuel filter is also recommended if the carburetor is showing signs of contamination. If the lawn mower has a gas cap vent, open it to clear any visible clogs. If none of these steps solve the problem, it’s worth having the carburetor replaced by a pro.
How We Select and Test
There’s only one way to test a mower, and that’s to cut grass with it. But we also do more than mow.
We raise and lower the deck and adjust the seat. We look at service point access (the air filter, the spark plug, and the oil filter) and how easy it is to remove the deck. We mow approximately an acre with each mower, considering cut and mulching quality while running uphill, downhill, across washboard, and along sidehills. (On sidehills, we’ll mow surfaces pitched up to approximately 20 degrees; manufacturers generally recommend not going steeper than 10 degrees, but we like to be thorough.) We evaluate power and speed relative to cut quality—we investigate whether the mower delivers a decent cut mowing at full speed. When mowing in damp conditions, we look at whether the mower’s tires accumulate grass and how effectively it discharges moist clippings. Finally, we test maneuverability (these machines are, generally, very nimble) and how readily they come to a stop when you back off the lap bar control levers.
For more lawn mower reviews, check out our guides to the best riding lawn mowers, electric lawn mowers, and self-propelled mowers we recommend, and learn more about finding the right mower for you.