The drill is stuck in the hammer drill; how to get it out? From the article you will learn how to remove a drill that is stuck in a hammer drill
Reasons for jamming
Why is a low quality shank flattened or bent? Flattening occurs due to the fact that the perforator mechanism itself is made in such a way that a special firing pin constantly hits the shank, which is accelerated by a pneumatic mechanism located inside the body. I wrote about this in this article of mine. The blow has a rather large force, which is why steel of poor quality cannot withstand. In addition, some do not use drill lubricant, which causes the liner to overheat, making the liner flatten even easier.
And if we talk about curvature, then its reason is quite obvious. The drill, sinking into the material, begins to experience more and more resistance. And if it is larger than that for which the steel from which the drill is made, then its bending may occur, including in the area of the shank.
These are the reasons. Now that we have examined them, we can proceed to the actual extraction.
The drill got stuck in the hammer drill how to pull it out?
Hello! In this article I will tell you what to do if a drill is stuck in your hammer drill, how to pull it out and how to prevent this from happening in the future. Many users of this technique have encountered this problem. Some even broke their instrument because of this, which, of course, I do not wish for you. There are two main ways to remove the drill if it gets stuck in the chuck. They are quite simple and we will definitely consider them below. But first, I think it would be better to consider the reasons for the jam.
First you need to try to clamp the drill in a vice, and then pull the puncher towards you, making various movements to the side. Naturally, remember to keep the cartridge open. If the deformation is small, then this technique will most likely be able to carry out the removal. If the extraction fails, try the next technique.
So, the next technique is that you need to fix the puncher itself in a vice. This should be done so as not to damage the case, so it is better to lay some kind of rubber gaskets. Holding the tool, take a gas wrench or a small vice and squeeze the drill with something from them. Now, with a copper hammer, knock on the key or small vice, whichever you use, in the direction opposite to the chuck. If the extraction did not happen in 3-5 strokes, then you can not try further, since obviously the deformation is very strong, in which you cannot do without disassembling the puncher.
Disassembly of a specific tool model is always individual, so there is no universal answer. If you are not afraid and generally have experience in disassembly, then you can try to do everything yourself. But I still recommend contacting specialists at one of the service centers. For a reasonable fee, service providers will do the job.
This concludes the article. I wish that the drill can be removed without any problems and I advise you to use high-quality equipment. Well, see you soon!
Ways to get a drill from a hammer drill
As soon as the drill gets wedged in a concrete wall, floor or any other similar structure, you must immediately turn off the rotation mode, if enabled, and leave only the impact. After that, you need to pull the tool towards you, while jerking it to the other side of the surface in which it is stuck. These movements will lead to the fact that the drill will break part of the concrete layer holding it, after which it should simply and without much effort come out. This method will also help when the drill gets jammed in the wall structure due to the coarse fraction, and if the product gets into the reinforcement.
Another easy way to extract the drill from the surface is to use the reverse rotation feature. This function is not available on all instruments, in addition, its use leads to the licking of the drum assembly of the mechanism. If the device has a warranty, then you can try to extract the drill using this method.
There is also a rather extravagant way to extract the borax. For this you need a gas wrench. It must be screwed onto the nozzle, and then unscrewed in the opposite direction. This method works due to the fact that the gas wrench has a fairly long lever with which you can apply a lot of force. But if this method still does not work, you can try to knock on the handle of the key with a hammer. At the same time, the rock drill should be loosened from side to side. The combination of these movements will cause the drill to come out rather quickly.
In some cases, before removing the drill from the hammer drill, you will have to make several additional holes with another tool. As a result, a large hole should form around the drill, the diameter of which should be about 10 centimeters. The drill will come out together with a fragment of the wall, the resulting hole can later be repaired. This method is suitable when it is impossible to close it in the wall or cut the drill.
If none of the above methods came up, then the attachment will simply have to be cut down by the angle grinder, beaten off with a sledgehammer or covered with something.
Now let’s talk about what to do if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill. This is most often due to the fact that the material of the shank does not withstand loads and deforms. To remove the tool, it is necessary to clamp it tightly in a vice. After that, it is necessary to turn on the reverse on the instrument, it is advisable to set it to maximum power. The start must be pressed with some interruptions, since prolonged operation in this mode will lead to breakdown of the power unit of the device.
After the product is wedged, you should sharply pull the puncher out of the vice. They will contain a drill that is no longer usable. If the vice was not around, you can limit yourself to a thick wooden board. The hammer drill must be set up for drilling, but at the same time turn on the reverse. You need to drill until the tool bites.
Varieties and causes of drill jamming in a hammer drill
There are two most common variants of this problem:
- The drill gets wedged in the drill chuck or in the buffer element, which is used to install an ordinary nozzle in a hammer drill;
- The product gets stuck in the clamp of the punch itself.
In the first case, the problem appears due to the fact that a drill is required to solve problems, which is used for a conventional drill. For its installation, there is a special product adapter chuck, the same as in a conventional electric drill. It is inserted by the clamping element of the perforator, after which you can start work.
After their completion, in some cases, it is impossible to simply get the drill, since the lips of the clamping device hold it tightly. This problem is quite easy to solve, since its root lies in the misuse of the clamping mechanism. Some craftsmen simply forget about regular lubrication, so the tool wedges.
In the second case, the drill got stuck in the hammer drill. This nuisance appears for completely different reasons than getting stuck in the transition node. The nozzle in the electric drill moves around its axis, in some cases it makes weak reciprocating movements. This is due to the transfer of energy into the tool body through the lips of the clamping mechanism and the bottom of the chuck.
The hammer drill uses a different energy transfer technology, and accordingly the nozzle in the clamp moves differently. Since rotary-impact and just impact vectors of tool movement are provided in the hammer drill. Energy is transmitted to it by means of a special striker, which is set in motion by means of a power unit powered by electricity. This hammer has a mechanical effect on the shanks of tools installed in the chuck, such as a drill, drill, bit or chisel.
These elements are equipped with special grooves, with the help of which they are securely fixed in the clamping device. These grooves also serve to provide the tool with energy to rotate. Poor quality tools are made from soft alloys that do not undergo heat treatment. The shanks of such products cannot withstand high and long-term mechanical loads, therefore they become unusable. In this case, you may need to disassemble the tool before removing the drill from the hammer drill.
How to remove a drill from a hammer drill: expert advice
Construction work now requires the use of various tools, one of which is a hammer drill. With the help of this device, workers make holes of various diameters, as well as dismantle various reinforced concrete or stone structures.
Situations often occur when it is very difficult, if not impossible, to get the nozzle out of the device holder. In this regard, the question arises of how to pull the drill out of the hammer drill without damaging the device. To do this, you first need to figure out what causes such troubles.
Reasons for jamming
This kind of problem occurs in two cases:
- The drill is stuck in the adapter chuck that is used for a conventional drill bit
- The part is stuck in the clamping lips of the hammer drill.
The first problem occurs due to the need to use a conventional drill in the work of the drill, which requires a special adapter cartridge for manipulation with a perforator. It is inserted into the clamp of the device.
The second reason for the bit jamming may be the clamping of the hammer drill. This kind of interference occurs in other circumstances. The drill bit rotates around the axis, sometimes it performs weak reciprocating movements. This happens in connection with the transfer of power to the power tool through the lips of the clamping element and the bottom of the chuck.
The hammer drill mechanism transfers energy differently, so the drill in the clamp moves differently. The instrument has rotary-percussion and just percussion working functions. Energy is transferred to the device by a special striker, which hits the tail of the installed nozzle.
The attachment has special grooves that are firmly fixed in the clamping element, ensuring the transfer of torque. Poor-quality nozzles are made of a soft alloy that does not lend itself to heat treatment; as a result, the tails do not withstand the load and become unusable.
How to remove a stuck drill from a hammer drill?
Repair work most often requires the use of a tool such as a hammer drill. They drill holes and dismantle surfaces. Any power tool is subject to stress during operation, and this gradually leads to malfunctions. Often, after the completed work process, a problem arises with the removal of the drill from the tool holder. Pulling out a stuck drill takes a little work.
What if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill?
When, in the process of performing a large amount of work, the drill from the opposite side is riveted, it is not possible to pull it out of the perforator freely.
To get the drill out of the power tool, two methods are used:
- The stuck drill must be taken in a vice, while holding the tool in your hands, loosen it to the sides and pull it towards you.
- In a large vice, using rubber pads, so as not to crush the body, a perforator is clamped. Then the drill is clamped with a small vice and a small hammer is easily struck in the direction directed to the exit of the equipment from the chuck.
In both cases, penetrating solutions can be used.
If you cannot pull the drill directly out of the chuck while turning, then you need to remove the parts of the chuck or try to turn the drill back 90 degrees. Turning it usually results in a complete replacement of the clamping element components.
If attempts to pull the drill out of the device were unsuccessful, then so that the perforator does not finally break down, it is better to seek help from a master.
Removing the working tool
To remove the drill or bit after work or for replacement, you must:
- Wait until the rotation of the chuck has stopped completely.
- Pull the chuck base down until it stops.
- Remove the drill from the chuck.
- Release the chuck base.
How to remove a broken drill
The drill can not only get stuck in the tool chuck, in some cases it breaks. Then only the shank from the nozzle has to be removed from the device. In this situation, thin-nose pliers will help. Conventional pliers will not cope with the task, since they cannot be opened inside the cartridge.
The pliers should be inserted into the punch with little force. Then they need to be slightly opened, grab part of the broken off drill and pull it out. You can first remove the rubber band from the tool to make it easier.
If the device has not jammed the shank, then the chuck is pulled towards itself and the crushing mode is activated. The puncher is positioned upside down. Due to the vibrations that appear, a piece of drill will fall out on its own. If none of the methods helps, you will have to disassemble the puncher.
There are several main reasons why this malfunction can occur.
Among them, there are two most common:
- Jamming of the drill in the chuck or in the buffer element (it is used when installing a conventional drill bit);
- The drill is stuck in the punch clamp.
In the first situation, a malfunction occurs due to the need to use a drill, which is needed for the device to function. To insert it, a special element of the transitional chuck is used (the same part is used for an electric drill). It is usually placed in the clamping element of a hammer drill and then started to work.
After completing the work, it may be difficult to pull out the nozzles due to their tight fixation by the lips of the clamping hole. In this situation, there is a simple and quick solution, because the problem arises from improper operation of the clamping mechanism. Many users forget (or simply do not know) that it needs to be lubricated periodically. For this reason, jamming occurs.
The second situation occurs due to the element getting stuck in the punch itself. The nozzle of an electric drill rotates in a circle, and in some devices it also performs reciprocating actions. This is because the tool body transmits an impulse through the bottom of the chuck and the lips of the chuck.
But in the hammer drill, the energy is transmitted according to a different principle, therefore, the nozzles move along a different trajectory. This tool assumes rotational impact and impact vectors of the rig movement. Energy is supplied to the tool through the striker, which is included in the movement after the start of the operation of the power unit connected to electricity. Such a firing pin acts on the shanks of tools inserted into the chuck using mechanics (drill, drill, chisel, crown).
There are special grooves on the attachment that are securely fixed in the clamping element. This allows them to provide torque transmission. Cheap tips are usually made from low-quality materials and soft alloys that cannot be heat treated. Because of this, the tails become unsuitable for further use, since they cannot withstand such a load. In this situation, you will most likely have to completely disassemble the tool.
First of all, you should try to take the drill in a vice.
Then the punch is pulled in the opposite direction, while making swinging movements.
When performing these actions, the cartridge itself must be open.
If the drill is not stuck too tightly, this will quickly fix the problem.
The second method also involves the use of a vice. After clamping the drill, you need to start the reverse on the device at the maximum possible power. In this case, you cannot constantly keep the device turned on, you should press the start button with short breaks. Otherwise, due to long-term operation in this mode, the punch may break.
After the wedging of the tool occurs, you need to try to sharply pull the puncher out of the vice. Then they will contain only a drill, which will not be useful for further use. Instead of a vice, you can use a thick wooden board. Then the drilling mode is switched on on the hammer drill with the reverse switched on. Drilling should be done until the tool "bites".
Otherwise, you should try the third method. To do this, clamp the puncher itself in a vice. During the execution of the action, you need to be especially careful not to damage the body of the tool. You can make a kind of gasket: lay the puncher with rubber or a similar material. After that, you should take a gas wrench (if it is not available, other small vices will do). The tool itself is clamped with it. Now the key is tapped with a copper hammer in the direction opposite to the chuck
The fourth method also involves the use of a vice. After clamping the tool, you need to start reverse on it at the maximum possible power. In this case, you cannot constantly keep the device turned on, you should press the start button with short interruptions. Otherwise, due to long work with a broken shank, the hammer drill may break.
There is no single disassembly scheme for a hammer drill, since each model is made according to an individual scheme. If a person has experience in disassembling tools, then he can try to do it himself. First, the upper rubber cover on the chuck is dismantled, and then the retaining ring, which is located under it, is removed. If there is a fear that the tool will be damaged during disassembly, resort to the help of a service center.