Engine Changing oil in Craftsman Eager 1
I have a Craftsman Eager 1 lawnmower that might be 30 yrs old. I need to know how much oil and what grade. Thanks for your help.
Lawn Royalty
That information will be in the owners manual for the engine. If it is a Briggs or Kohler it will be available as a free download. If it is a Tecumseh then it will be available from here http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/
In your post two and two don’t add up to four. Eager 1 has been around for thirty years, but the Tecumseh 6.75 engine didn’t come out until about 15 years ago. The older Tecumseh engines used about 1 qt. of oil, but the newer ones used about 20 oz. You are going to have to figure out which engine you have.
I double checked. It is 30 yrs old. I married into it 14 yrs ago. I will figure 1 quart of 30W. Thanks a bunch. And I won’t say 6.75 HP anymore.
dana a
Active Member
I double checked. It is 30 yrs old. I married into it 14 yrs ago. I will figure 1 quart of 30W. Thanks a bunch. And I won’t say 6.75 HP anymore.
It may not hold a whole quart of oil. If you haven’t drained the oil you might note how much you take out but the easiest thing is to do like I said before. I’m going to make the assumption that a 30 year old mower doesn’t have a dip stick but just a hole to pour the oil into. The hole has a slot part way up the hole probably just below the threads. The correct oil level should be up to the bottom of that slot.
RKDOC
Remove the housing arounnd the engine. There will be a plate on the engine with the tecumseh numbers on it.
I worked on a similar motor and was about ready to give up on it, had the carb off several times with no luck. Turned out the vent in the gas cap was plugged, so check that first. Try running it with the gas cap removed. Sounds like the engine is straving for fuel. Have you ever had the carb bowl nut off. If the tiny holes are blocked it will not run properly. If you take the bowl nut off either empty the gas tank or pinch the fuel line to stop fuel from flowing in. There will be a few tablespoons of fuel in the bowl, so have a few paper towels handy. When you prime that many times the engine will run until the fuel primed in is gone. Check the primer bulb for cracks. Keep us posted. Dean
30yearTech
The engine on your mower is a Tecumseh Vector series engine, the corresponding Tecumseh mode number is VLV126-502533E.
The most likely cause of your issue are 2 little O-Ring seals in the carburetor, one on the nozzle and the other between the main jet and nozzle cavity.
The main jet is accessed via the drain screw on the side of the float bowl, there is a small spring under the screw, then the main jet (plastic) and finally the O-Ring. This one tends to swell up and shut off the fuel supply.
To access the O-Ring on the nozzle requires the float bowl to be removed from the carburetor body. To do this you will have to unsnap the retaining clip towards the rear of the carburetor and drop the float bowl off. There is a small O-Ring near the base of the nozzle that can deteriorate and allow air to be drawn up the nozzle instead of fuel. There is a small spring underneath the nozzle so be careful not to loose it, it’s very important. Both O-Ring’s are the same.
Radiorara
I too have a Craftsman Mulching Mower with that crappy engine/carb setup. After draining the oil, replacing the blade, cleaning the mower top to bottom and replacing the spark plug and air filter and cleaning out the carb and replacing with fresh gas it still will not start. Compression seems good and it did try and start after spraying the intake with carb cleaner but man what a dog. I feel like riding this thing down the street until I hit something rendering it completely useless. Model Number 917.378420 Dunghole brown color with garbage plastic wheels.
At this time I can’t get to a site where I can see the carb type for your engine, however, if your carb has the plastic tube extending into the air filter area your problem is, 1- you must make sure the bowl nut is clean, it can have 1-4 holes in it that will get clogged, 2- on this carb the bowl gasket(at the top) must be replaced whenever the bowl is removed( the primer doesn’t prime if there is a air leak). Have a good one. Geo
coltzfan1963
I just got mine running again. I bought some new gaskets/o-rings and primer bulb. When I took it apart and there was no o-ring on top of the main jet but I put it in because I saw it in the diagram. It restricted the movement of the plunger so I took it back out and it fired up. It’s a crappy carb but at least I did not have to spend the 80 for a new one or replace the mower. Thanks to all for the advice!
The engine on your mower is a Tecumseh Vector series engine, the corresponding Tecumseh mode number is VLV126-502533E.
The most likely cause of your issue are 2 little O-Ring seals in the carburetor, one on the nozzle and the other between the main jet and nozzle cavity.
The main jet is accessed via the drain screw on the side of the float bowl, there is a small spring under the screw, then the main jet (plastic) and finally the O-Ring. This one tends to swell up and shut off the fuel supply.
To access the O-Ring on the nozzle requires the float bowl to be removed from the carburetor body. To do this you will have to unsnap the retaining clip towards the rear of the carburetor and drop the float bowl off. There is a small O-Ring near the base of the nozzle that can deteriorate and allow air to be drawn up the nozzle instead of fuel. There is a small spring underneath the nozzle so be careful not to loose it, it’s very important. Both O-Ring’s are the same.
This fixed my problem. The O-Ring in the main jet was pressed flat and resembled a flat piece of rubber rather than an O-Ring. It took some digging to get it out. If I didn’t know it was in there from this post and the parts diagram, I might have never found the problem.
Jo-Jo
Here I am, a few years later after you posted your answer to fix my mower, and you are SPOT ON! I looked at a dozen different youtubes as my 6.75 HP Eager-1 self propelled would start then die, and so on and so on. I pulled the carb, of course NOT the same carb as any of the YouTube, and cleaned all of the jets w/ carb out, put it all back together again planning on it running like a charm. NOPE! I was discouraged. I finally happened upon your two liner talking about the o-rings. When I pulled the carb and cleaned it, I noticed one of the o-rings but felt it was fine as it looked ok. So, off I go to Ace hardware after reading your fix, spend
Pete from Prescott
It couldn’t have been easier. 1. I tipped the mower at an angle with blocks so I could look at the underside of the carburetor (Side with Red Primer button). 2. I crimped the fuel hose about two inches away from the connection with small 8″ forceps (Hemostats) This is the black hose. Crimp to the forward end of the hose. 3. Put some rags under the carb. area. 4. Look for the silver retaining “clip” that goes around and under the black plastic carb. bowl. With a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers, on the back side of the clip, at the top, pull the clip out of the hole that keeps the clip up. Bowl should drop down and fuel should spill out onto rags. Just swing clip back and away. do not remove from other hole. 5. Carefully slide bowl down and off the white plastic shaft. Do not lose spring laying in hole at the center of the Bowl.
YOUR FIRST O-RING IS VISIBLE ON THIS WHITE SHAFT AT THE BOTTOM
Empty the fuel from the bowl. Remove the screw from the side of the bowl taking care not to lose the spring and needle valve behind the screw. Remove the spring and valve.
YOUR SECOND O-RING IS NOW ACCESSIBLE INSIDE THE SCREW HOLE.
I used a captive spring hook to get it out. A paperclip shaped with a very short upturned end will do. 8. True Value had the O-rings for.99 cents. It was their smallest one measuring 1/8 x 1/4 x 1×16 or part no. 02-1624P (The repair shop will try to sell you a whole kit. not necessary.)
Note: You will find the 1st O-ring has been flattened on its sides. The 2nd O- ring (in the bowl) will have been pancaked to the point that there is barely a hole in the center.
PS. If I’d known what I was doing and had all my tools handy with the o-rings at hand, It would be about a fifteen minute job. The mower cranked over and never looked back.
.46 on two o-rings, put it all back together and SHAZZZAM! THANKS 30YEARTECH! Your answer was the ONLY one I found on the web that even discusses the real cause! I registered on this site, went thru all the ‘stuff’ to be able to post just to thank you! I owe ya a cold one. or two! Blessings!!
The engine on your mower is a Tecumseh Vector series engine, the corresponding Tecumseh mode number is VLV126-502533E.
The most likely cause of your issue are 2 little O-Ring seals in the carburetor, one on the nozzle and the other between the main jet and nozzle cavity.
The main jet is accessed via the drain screw on the side of the float bowl, there is a small spring under the screw, then the main jet (plastic) and finally the O-Ring. This one tends to swell up and shut off the fuel supply.
To access the O-Ring on the nozzle requires the float bowl to be removed from the carburetor body. To do this you will have to unsnap the retaining clip towards the rear of the carburetor and drop the float bowl off. There is a small O-Ring near the base of the nozzle that can deteriorate and allow air to be drawn up the nozzle instead of fuel. There is a small spring underneath the nozzle so be careful not to loose it, it’s very important. Both O-Ring’s are the same.
Craftsman eager 1 lawn mower
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Craftsman eager 1 lawn mower
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How to Change the Oil on a Craftsman Eager 1 Lawn Mower
The Sears Eager 1 lawnmower is a walk-behind push mower that is suitable for use when cutting small- to medium-sized lawns. Featuring a four-cycle gasoline-powered engine, the Eager 1, like all mowers, requires routine maintenance so that it continues to perform properly.
Changing the oil on a Sears Eager 1 is part of the routine maintenance and can be performed by many homeowners.
Things You Will Need
Keith Dooley has a degree in outdoor education and sports management. He has worked as an assistant athletic director, head coach and assistant coach in various sports including football, softball and golf. Dooley has worked for various websites in the past, contributing instructional articles on a wide variety of topics.
Motor Parts
Motors often wear out in lawn mowers, due to the strain caused by lack of proper maintenance. The Eager 1’s manual lists each working part of the motor and informs the user of when to replace certain parts, like the spark plug or the oil. The only Sears-made part that is available in Sears stores is the air filter, which fits all Eager 1 models no matter their age. The two-cycle oil can be purchased at almost any store that offers lawnmowers or weedeaters, and any brand of two-cycle oil will do. Some very old models of Eager 1 require oil and gasoline to be mixed. Not mixing the oil and gasoline will destroy the engine very quickly due to overheating. Find the owner’s manual for your Eager 1 by it’s original manufacturing date to determine whether you need to mix oil and gasoline. Spark plugs must be replaced at least once per year if the lawn mower is left outside, or there is any sign of corrosion on the plug.
- Motors often wear out in lawn mowers, due to the strain caused by lack of proper maintenance.
- The only Sears-made part that is available in Sears stores is the air filter, which fits all Eager 1 models no matter their age.