Get the Job. Lawn tractor weights diy

How to Make Your Own Tractor Weights

Increasing the weight of your tractor can increase the overall amount of traction that it has, preventing it from becoming stuck in the mud. While commercial tractor weights are available, one possibility for the thrifty consumer is to provide your own weighting system for your tractor, saving time and money in the process. There are a number of things you can do to add additional weight to your tractor, depending on your budget and the amount of weight to be added.

Add Calcium Chloride solution to your tires to create a homemade chemical version of tractor weights. Calcium Chloride is a dense, liquid solution that will weight the tires down to a substantial degree, providing additional weight without raising the overall center of gravity of your tractor, which could compromise safety and performance. Calcium Chloride is also fairly cheap when compared to commercial tractor weights, which can cost up to one dollar per pound or more.

Purchase a rear weight bracket, which is a device that attaches to the rear of your tractor for hanging weights. Instead of spending your money on suitcase weights, create your own weights by filling one or two small plastic gas containers with sand or gravel, hanging them from the rear weight bracket with a piece of rope to pull the tractor down and provide extra traction while working.

Create your own wheel weights if you have access to metal working tools and a sufficient supply of scrap metal. Simply cut four relatively thick sheets of metal into circular shapes that are roughly the diameter of your tractor’s tires. Imaging affixing it to the hub of your wheel, punching holes through the metal in the location where the bolts would go. Now simply unbolt the wheel, placing your homemade wheel weight against the hub before reattaching the bolts to hold it into place.

How to Build a Garden Tractor Snowplow

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With a little ingenuity, a ride-on mower can be transformed into a garden snow plough. This article will explain how to do this by adapting your existing garden tractor using reclaimed materials, a welding tool and appropriate safety equipment.

Choosing Your Tractor

Community QA

Drill holes in a strap. Then put bolts into the holes and screw in nuts. That should give you traction.

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Blow the mower deck clean

Clean the mower deck

Remove the belt guards and blow off the debris that wrecks belts and pulleys. Scrape away any debris buildup under the pulleys with a screwdriver.

Close-up of belt guard

Belt guards trap grass and debris that wears on the belts and pulleys.

You might think that the belt guards on top of a mower deck protect the belts and pulleys from grass clippings, dirt and other debris. But just the opposite is true. The spinning belts and pulleys suck in debris and the guards trap it inside. Then it swirls around, grinding away at the pulley surfaces and tearing up your belts. Once a pulley wears, it will quickly chew up every new belt you put on. Avoiding expensive belt and pulley replacements is easy; just blow the deck off with an air compressor or leaf blower after every third or fourth mowing.

Spark plug pointers

Change spark plugs

Spark plugs are the most important but least expensive components in the engine. Change them regularly for easy starting and fuel economy.

Worn spark plugs cause a variety of problems, from hard starting and poor fuel economy to misfires and even engine damage. So replace them at the manufacturer’s recommended intervals. Changing plugs is a simple matter of unscrewing the old ones and screwing in new ones. But there are a few things to keep in mind when doing this lawn mower maintenance project:

Replace the fuel filter

Fuel filter technique

Replace the fuel filter without making a mess. Pinch off the fuel line with a clamp to stop any gas flow. As you remove the old filter, plug the openings with your fingers.

Replacing the fuel filter is easy. But there’s a trick to doing it without getting drenched in gasoline. First, pinch the fuel line leading from the tank with a clamp. Then move the spring clamps away from the filter with pliers. Slip on a pair of nitrile gloves, tilt the inlet side of the filter up and remove the inlet hose. Drain the small amount of fuel from the fuel line into a drain pan. Then, plug the filter inlet with your thumb, tilt the entire filter down, and pull it out of the outlet hose. This technique keeps most of the fuel inside the filter, reducing spillage. Place the old fuel filter in the drain pan and install the new filter. Pay attention to the fuel flow direction arrows—the arrow must point toward the engine. Move the fuel line clamps back into place and remove the “pinch-off” clamp from the fuel line.

Tip: Get a smaller gas can. Old gas (stored for more than 30 days) is the most common cause of starting problems.

Other Lawnmower Models

We show a John Deere tractor in this story, but the maintenance is similar for other brands. Just be sure to follow the procedures, service intervals, and lubricant and torque specifications shown in your owner’s manual. Ever wonder what the differences are between a rider, lawn tractor and a garden tractor? We’ve got the answer.

Zero-turn mowers “ZTR” mowers have a hydraulic steering system, requiring you to change the hydraulic fluid and filter occasionally (typically every 300 hours). It’s a quick, simple job, a lot like changing the motor oil.

Service schedules Every manufacturer recommends different “service intervals” for things like oil, filter and spark plug changes. These intervals can vary a lot. Many manufacturers recommend greasing moving parts every 50 hours, but some call for it every 25 hours. So don’t follow general guidelines—follow your manual.

Choose the right oil

Replace the oil filter

Screw on the new oil filter until the rubber gasket touches the seat. Then give the filter another half turn. Spread a light coat of oil on the gasket so it doesn’t bind against the seat.

Check the oil grade stamp

Check the “donut” on the back of the container and be sure to buy oil with an “SM” rating.

Just like your car, your tractor needs regular oil changes. If your owner’s manual suggests a brand of oil, you can ignore that advice. But do pay attention to the recommended viscosity (such as 10W- 30) to find the best type of oil for your mower. If you use your tractor for snow removal, check the manual for a “winter weight” oil recommendation. Never, ever change the oil without also changing the oil filter. To prevent a buildup of gunk on the engine, wipe up any spilled oil. Bottle the old oil and take it to your nearest oil recycling center for disposal.

Blade-changing tips

Photo 1: Loosen stubborn bolts

Loosen stubborn blade bolts with a long breaker bar. Hold back the blade with wood blocks and a C-clamp. A clamp on the rear wheel stops the deck from rolling as you flip it over.

Photo 2: Install new blades

Position the new blades in a “U” pattern for better balance and less vibration. Tighten blade bolts with a torque wrench to avoid breaking them.

Dull blades make the engine and belts work harder. They’re bad for your grass, too. Instead of slicing off the grass cleanly, they leave a torn edge that takes longer to heal.

Lawn tractor weights diy

Hello all, I was thinking today about adding weight to the rear of my 149 and wanted opinions. First, my rear tires are filled. I was thinking of cutting down a 5 gallon bucket to sit on my rear fixed drawbar or “hitch” and also mounting to the holes on the frame where a rear lift would go. Then filling the bucket with quick crete. I’m thinking this would add roughly 50-60 pounds of weight. My questions are, is this enough weight to make much difference with traction or almost no difference? Also, the weight would be sitting and attached to the rear drawbar and can that amount of weight possibly break the bolts holding the drawbar to the transmission housing? I don’t want to add headaches! I’m not slipping all over the place but I figure more traction is always better if I can get it. Thanks for your thoughts, Mark

1973 Model 149 42″ Snow Blade John Deere X360 John Deere 10 cu Poly cart Squire Applegate 5HP recoil start

ID stick with loaded tires and wheel weights, adding weight to the tires creates very little stress on the tractor while adding weight to the tractor adds alot of stress to the rear axle bearings/bushing and cause unneeded wear and tear.

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If you have quickcrete this works great. Take a piece of conduit pipe and cut it into 4 pieces per tire as long as your concrete is going to be tall, then line your wheel with plastic trash bag, stick the carriage bolts through the wheel holes, add the conduit pipe and tighten them with a washer and nut. Add any scrap lead or whatever you have then pour the concrete and wait for it to set. Homemade wheel weights.

1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54″ push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48″ decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75′ weights and chains, #2 cart.

I had 20 pound front weights off something I don’t know what they were for, that I put in the concrete and ended up with 32 pound weights. Great for cutting grass in the summer. Add some lead and you could make some heavy weights.

1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54″ push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48″ decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75′ weights and chains, #2 cart.

If you have quickcrete this works great. Take a piece of conduit pipe and cut it into 4 pieces per tire as long as your concrete is going to be tall, then line your wheel with plastic trash bag, stick the carriage bolts through the wheel holes, add the conduit pipe and tighten them with a washer and nut. Add any scrap lead or whatever you have then pour the concrete and wait for it to set. Homemade wheel weights.

OK, I did the 5 gallon bucket thing. I put a 50 lb bag of quik set and that was a little over half full. I finished filling with some old mortar and let set up. Put a bolt in the bottom before filling. I have a reciever hitch and just sat it on the hitch without a ball on it, bolt through the hole and two ratchet straps holding it on. Added two 25 lb plate weights on top of that, I am guessing 150lb total. The thing goes like a billy goat even on ice. I was impressed! I have less than 5 dollars in that weight.

If you have quickcrete this works great. Take a piece of conduit pipe and cut it into 4 pieces per tire as long as your concrete is going to be tall, then line your wheel with plastic trash bag, stick the carriage bolts through the wheel holes, add the conduit pipe and tighten them with a washer and nut. Add any scrap lead or whatever you have then pour the concrete and wait for it to set. Homemade wheel weights.

Thanks for the input and ideas. I really like the idea of casting my own weights and the price would be right! I hadn’t thought of the extra stress of the weight on the back and like I said, I don’t want to add headaches. Thanks again

1973 Model 149 42″ Snow Blade John Deere X360 John Deere 10 cu Poly cart Squire Applegate 5HP recoil start

I don’t think for short periods the weight hanging on the rear is going to matter. Wouldn’t want to mow with it but after today I doubt I will need the weight till plowing and I have a little time to figure out and find wheel weights. Iron is always the best way to go. I know what I have now works great. Only spun today on the solid slick ice that you can barely stand on. Had an inch of snow last night so I got to push for a couple of hours today!

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by “boys. acknowledged by many as the world’s worst destructive force!”. Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website’s owner and/or it’s members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

Tractor Weight. Tractor Weight Bracket

Our Tractor suitcase weights are 41 lbs each. (also come in black) If you want your tractor to do the work you want it to do, you need traction. Adding the tractor weights give you that needed traction.

They also work great for garden tractor pulling. Suitcase weights are 75 each.

I spoke to you a couple of weeks ago when I called from Connecticut regarding wheel weights for my Case 222 garden tractor. I got your 70lb wheel weights a few days ago in the mail and installed them today using threaded rods as you suggested, and wow, did it ever make a difference! After adding this 140lb, I was able to drive straight down the hilly parts of my yard and then back up without any trouble at all, something that was next to impossible before. It is so much more enjoyable to work on the tractor now that I can stop worrying about getting stuck on the hills next to trees bushes and stumps. I am also making far fewer skid marks on my lawn as I shift the rather aggressive hydraulic drive back and forth. I only regret that I didn’t buy these weights 4 years ago when I first got this tractor, it is clearly a wise investment for this machine.

Bercomac rear weights and weight bracket

Package of 6 weights that are 25 lbs each.

A: No, you do not have enough weight on your tractor. Yes having weight on the rear gives you the advantage of the leverage on the rear which decreases the front end weight and that transfers to the rear wheels. You can put my universal suitcase bracket on the rear of the rear axle and the six suitcase weights at 25 pounds each, and that will give you an approximate 200 pounds of the rear axle. With this style of weight you can easily decrease weight in 25 pound increments.

Q: I need to get some weight for my X595 when using the FEL. How much weight should I have when moving dirt, mulch, etc.? The tractor came with a weight bucket (part of the FEL package). I have the rear tires filled. I’m wondering if your suitcase weights will fit in the weight bucket? Or, am I better off getting a weight bracket for the rear and hang the weights on that. Do you carry a bracket for the X series? I believe John Deere’s is a “Click and Go” or something like that.

A: You can just hang your suitcase weights on the weight box and put some in the box. You wouldn’t need to buy a weight bracket. Yes, I have the suitcase weights in stock. I think I have the click and go also here in stock.

Q: I have a 2210 John Deere, I was wondering if I could install your 70# weights on the inside of my wheels.

A: Yes, if you have 12” wheels these will bolt right onto your rear wheels.

Q: I have a Wheel Horse 312. 8 Speed tractor that I primarily use for snow removal. I have both a 42″ blower and a 42″ plow blade for it. I currently have one 50# wheel weight in each rear wheel. I have Carlisle Turf Master tires on all 4 which have been awesome for traction (without chains). I mostly plow on concrete or blacktop. The only problem I am having is with the front wheels sliding when plowing with the blade angled. I would like to add some weight up front to help with this.

Do you know of anyone who may have something that would work for me to add some front weight? I do have 6 weight plates which are about 20# each. I could just fabricate a bracket to use those. Any idea how much weight would be needed for this?

A: I welded some neat brackets on the side of my push blade for that same reason and hung four John Deere suitcase weights at 41 pounds each. At 160 pounds sometimes I still wished I had more.

Q: I have a 4 wheel drive X748 diesel lawn mower with a 62” deck. 85% of my mowing is on hillsides so my objective is to make the tractor have the lowest center of gravity as possible to reduce rollover. My mower weighs 1113 lbs standard. So far I’ve filled with liquid and added 50 lb weights to each of the 26x12x12 rear tires. I have added two 43 lb suitcase weights to the front bumper. What would your recommendations be? How much weight did the liquid fill provide? Should I add on the 30 lb weights to each front tire? I see some talk about adding 140 lbs to each rear tire. Can I do that with this mower? How much weight to the front would I add to balance out the tractor if I did that?

A: The rear tires will hold about 11 gallons each if they were filled full. That is about 90 pounds on each wheel. You also can remove the rear wheels and turn them around and you will come up with a much wider track. That will help your center of gravity. I would put 140 pounds of weight on each rear wheel along with the rear tires filled with liquid. I would not fill the front tires as it is not worth messing with for the little bit of weight you will get out of it. Instead put more suitcase weights onto your front bumper. If you do all of the above you will be as safe as you can get to go up and down the slopes at any angle you would want to go.

Q: I’m looking at adding weight to the rear of my John Deere 317. Will your suit case bracket fit? Also I’ve pondered if the hydro system would be able to support a log splitter?

A: Yes my weight bracket will fit on the rear of your John Deere 317. Yes your tractor is tough enough to take care of a log splitter.

Q: I just bought a Cub Cadet GT 2544 heavy duty, shaft drive, cast Iron tranny, garden tractor. I am looking to plow my driveway with it. I have a black top driveway and other than chains, (I am afraid they will tear up the black top) I am interested in other ways to improve my traction. I just ordered a set of Carlisle Tru Power AG tires for the rear and was wondering about putting fluid in them? I have had mixed responses. some say that it will damage my hydro drive and others say because I have the heavy duty cast Iron hydro transmission that it would be no problem. Could I have your opinion? Would Liquid in the tires for added traction hurt my brand new tractor? I have heard that rotating weight, carrying inertia, is bad for a hydro setup. Also. I need suitcase weights and a bracket to hold them. I’m looking for the brackets and for the weights, would you be able to Help me? Do you have anything that would fit my Tractor?

A: Yes putting weight on any tractor is always a little harder on it, but think about it, you sure didn’t pay all that money for the big ponies to sit there and watch your wheels spin. My opinion is to get some weight on it and get her nailed to the ground and tell her it’s time to go to work for you. Yes, I would fill the tires with liquid, and not the calcium chloride. Use windshield washer fluid. Mount suitcase weights on the rear and then you can get by without chains. I do agree with you, I don’t like chains either and do not use them, I just add a little more weight. I have a universal suitcase weight bracket and 6 suitcase weights that weigh 25 lbs each, that comes up with a total figure of over 150 lbs. This will bolt on to the rear of your tractor.

Q: Do you think there is any benefit in putting tire chains on the front of a 2 wheel drive garden tractor for plowing snow, or would adding weight to the front be a better idea? The tire size is 16 x 7.50 x 8 and they are turf type tires.

Frontier Livestock Equine Equipment

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Hardworking snowblowers, blades, and pushes.

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Frontier Tillage Equipment

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Doing two things at once is no longer challenging with a John Deere Compact Tractor and snow removal equipment. Whether you have a snowblower, rear blade, loader or spreader—clearing the way is even easier. Who says you can’t do it all?

No need to align splines. No muscling or forcing into position. Connect your tiller, rotary cutter or other PTO driven implement the easy way with the John Deere Quik-Knect System. No problem.

John Deere Load-N-Go /h3>

Moving your mower deck out of the way, just got a whole lot easier with the John Deere Load-N-Go /strong> attachment for 1 Series and Model Year 2017 and newer 2025R Tractors with 7-Iron AutoConnect 60D mower decks. Install it in place of the existing AutoConnect drive-over ramps and you can use the tractor’s loader to pick up and move the mower deck, while maintaining the drive-over capability.