First, a few words about the concept itself "winter storage". Storage can be different: sensible, stupid and in the middle. Stupid. this is when the scooter is put into a damp garage for the winter without any preparation, and in the spring it is expected that it starts up with a half-dollar. But this, if possible, is only with new scooters, and even then not with everyone. Explanatory storage is when a person spent an hour of time in the fall in order to avoid multi-day hemorrhoids in the spring, and carried out all the necessary activities on his scooter (see scooter conservation for the winter). Usually, all those who followed the advice on setting up a scooter for the winter in the fall start in the spring and ride without problems.
In order to deal with the causes of spring scooter negligence, we must first understand its possible causes. The reasons for spring weathering (provided that the scooter started in the fall, and if mechanical damage is excluded), almost all come down to two:
Let’s start with fuel. There is such a thing as the shelf life of gasoline. Which means: if the scooter did not immediately start on old gasoline, then it will not start for quite a long time (some suffer for weeks;))). From this misfortune there is a panacea. imported slurry called "fuel stabilizer" (fuel stabilizer), but it was necessary to pour it in the fall, now it’s too late. When filling, observe the proportion. the bottle is usually designed for a couple of automobile tanks.
What can help now? To ensure the flow of fresh fuel, it is necessary to drain gasoline from the tank and carburetor. You can drain gasoline from the tank using a meter hose. One end is inserted into the tank, to the bottom, the second should be at the same level from the outside. Prepare an empty container (estimate in advance how many liters of gasoline is now in the tank). Next, suck in gasoline (do not be afraid to slurp, there’s nothing wrong with that), as soon as he goes through the hose, lower the hose into the container and wait until all the gasoline has drained. It is advisable to hold the end of the hose in the tank so that it does not float. Otherwise, the operation will need to be repeated. Or do not need any hose. disconnect the vacuum hose from the carburetor (it comes from the gas valve, which is usually the first from the tank), and disconnect the fuel at the inlet to the gas filter (blow out the filter at the same time, replace it better). Create a vacuum in the vacuum hose. and oops! went petrol from the fuel. So really long you will "blow".
Draining gas from the tank, pour fresh, carefully poured into the canister at the gas station in the morning. Do not skimp on the quantity: for some reason, some difficult scooters start up only with a full tank. Another good move is to leave the fuel tank cap open when starting up in case the fuel does not enter the carburetor due to vacuum.
Now we find the drain screws of the float chambers. Drain usually looks like a metal tube about a centimeter or a half centimeter long, made by casting and coming out of the carburetor’s float chamber strictly down. On some scooters, she is wearing a rubber hose that goes down somewhere in front of the rear wheel. A distinctive feature by which it is easy to detect a drain. a screw with a thin slot is located right in the same tube, which is turned off by two or three turns, we release the fuel outlet from the carburetor’s float chamber. From the tube should drip, and then pour gasoline. If there is no rubber hose on the drain pipe, I recommend to put a rag under the drain in advance (50 50 rags are enough), it will be enough to absorb 50-100 milliliters of leaked gasoline. Let the gas run off.
this is a good chance to see if the carburetor needs to be cleaned. if the tip of the screw is dirty and rusty, then it’s time.
Video: Cultivator Doesn’t Start After Winter
OK, we figured out the fuel. Now the ignition. The ignition system in that part, which is accessible to the kettle for inspection and repair, consists only of candles and a battery, so we will limit ourselves to this. The condition of the battery is the most important factor in trouble-free winding if kickstarter is absent (relevant for modern scooters with large cubic capacity). so I recommend not to neglect this. The battery, “lit” through the wires, will help, but will not give such an effect as a well-charged own scooter battery in advance. Not to mention the fact that the self-discharged battery during the winter will not spin the engine, it will not give the necessary voltage to the “brains” (if any), which as a result will refuse to work correctly and give a spark. So with a discharged battery it is better not to even try.
Let me remind you that it is best to charge the battery with a current of 10% of the nominal capacity for 10 hours, i.e. A 9 A / h battery is best charged with 0.9 A for 10 hours. The recommended charging current is written on the battery cover, so it makes sense to look. The Moto.Ru Store has a special device for charging moto-scooter-batteries, everything is free, come and recharge. It is better not to use car "automatic" chargers. they are designed for the capacity of a standard car battery (50 A / h), and when a relatively weak battery is connected to them, they think that they have a very dead car battery in front of them, which they are trying to invigorate with mega-current.
Some batteries can also be charged in accelerated mode for half an hour by current (for example, for a 9 Ah / Yuasa battery, this will be 5 A for an hour), but only if it is written directly on it. Yuasa batteries, standardly installed on Honda, almost all have this feature. When charging, by the way, do not forget to pull out the jams of the cans (if they are pulled out.). Some batteries are equipped with a special “tablet”, which passes the released gas through itself, but does not pass liquid.
If the battery is weak (it seems to spin, but dies quickly), you can try to revive it with tools like Electro Start or Amper Plus. Do not overdo it with the dosage. they are designed for car batteries. Fill the slurry or pour the powder into the openings of the cans (if the battery is maintenance-free, you will need to access the holes by barbarously tearing out the same plate that says "maintenance-free";))).
Candles are best checked with a special probe. manufacturers strictly prohibit the testing of candles "for breakdown" on the mass. However, it is possible and so, if you do not mind the "brains" worth 500. A probe compared to this costs a penny, and it’s always useful, not only on a scoot / motorcycle, but also on a car. The electrode on the “muzzle” of the probe must be placed on the tip of the candle, and the other, dangling, shorted to ground. The mass around is full. the cylinder block will do;))). Just do not use a gas tank or carburetor in search of mass. If the candle does not “plow”, you can replace it with a new one, or you can try to reanimate, if at all it is reanimated. To do this, try to clean the electrodes in a place where, in theory, a spark should be pierced between them, with a fine emery cloth and set the gap recommended by the manufacturer (this is very important!), Usually a gap of 0.6. 0.7 mm.
Now that we have fresh gas in the tank and carburetor, as well as a well-charged battery, we can proceed to the factory. do not touch the throttle stick at this moment. The fact is that when the gas knob is moved, the mixture is not enriched, but, on the contrary, it becomes leaner due to the large amounts of air entering it, therefore, by twisting the gas, you will not start a scooter. It’s better not to touch the throttle stick; take your hands away from it. Try to wind up under all of the above conditions no more than three times, then you will need to blow cylinder / s. To do this, during the next attempt, holding the brake, turn the throttle handle to failure and hold the starter button for five seconds. Cylinder / s are sold.
If five or six attempts do not lead to anything, you can try to start on the air
This is done like this: the air filter cover is removed, a generous amount of ether is sprayed directly onto the filter element (Starting Fluid, 100 rubles in any auto parts), the cover is closed, the main thing is not to miss the time until the air evaporates. Now we start. If the engine does not start from three to four times, then there is nothing to catch, you need to go to the service. If even sneezed, you can try to repeat the procedure. And the smell. Look do not suffocate.
Well, I think that by now all who could have wound up. Who could not. already at the service. Before the first trip after winter, do not forget to check the tire pressure (necessary, or excesses are possible!), The level of coolant (whoever has it) and oil. If you did not change the oil in the fall, it is recommended to change it as soon as possible. The white smoke from the silencers for the first 10-15 minutes of engine operation is normal, it releases condensate that has formed there during the winter, if the silencers were not covered with plastic bags.