Homemade lugs for a tiller of complex design
The products considered above are easy to manufacture, but their consumer properties are far from perfect. Therefore, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the design, which is not inferior in quality to factory counterparts.
For manufacturing you will need:
- Steel sheet 4-5 mm for the central disc;
- Steel strip 50 mm wide 4-5 mm thick for the outer supporting surface. There will be 6 such hoops. The outer rings make the wheel heavier and stronger;
- Steel plate 8-10 mm thick for hooks;
- Arc welding machine, angle grinder, drill or drilling machine.
All connections are made using electric welding, a gas burner will not heat metal of this thickness.
Since the diameter and width of the lugs are larger than the seat for standard wheels, we lengthen the axles.
over, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of adjusting the track, depending on the width of the rows in the field. By moving the wheels with hooks, you can set any width and position of the attachment. Each wheel weighs at least 10 kg, so strong traction is ensured.
It is important to understand that such wheels are not implements for plowing or loosening, although some soil treatment is present. It will not work to use them as a loosening cutter, since an independent fulcrum is required.
If you are not faced with the question of how to make the lugs heavier, the structure can be made more delicate and light. Such wheels work well on “light” soils with preliminary loosening.
In such a project, the discs are made of small diameter, the rim is supported by an openwork spoked structure made of profiled steel sheet. Steel thickness for hooks no more than 8 mm. Each wheel weighs less than 7 kg.
How to make lugs with existing factory wheels
The easiest way is to put the structure on the tire like snow chains.
It is enough to take sheet metal with a thickness of 2-3 mm, and cut a strip that will be slightly wider than the tire profile. The preload is provided by a simple tie made of bolted studs. The edges of the strip should be folded to prevent slipping under lateral loads.
The lugs are cut from thicker sheet steel (4-5 mm). They need to be bent in the middle at an angle of 120 °. Then the workpieces are welded to the strips at regular intervals.
Therefore, before starting work, you should use ready-made drawings, or develop a layout yourself.
Such lugs can be made with your own hands in a couple of evenings. If you use a regular smooth tread on a homemade trailer, the device will turn the equipment into a real SUV.
We will acquaint fans of small mechanization with various types of structures, and varying degrees of complexity.
The simplest do-it-yourself lugs for a tiller
For manufacturing you will need:
- steel sheet 4-5 mm thick for wheel rims;
- steel sheet 6-8 mm thick for hooks;
- Angle Grinder;
- welding machine;
- drilling machine or powerful drill.
Cut out two identical discs from a thinner sheet. In the center we make a hole for the hub and for attaching the wheel to the studs. Cut sawtooth protrusions along the outer edge, 10 cm deep.
Cut out triangular hooks from a thick sheet with cut corners. We weld them strictly perpendicular to the sawtooth notches. Everything, the design is ready for use.
Despite the unprepossessing design, homemade lugs for a tiller made in this way have an important advantage. They are heavy enough to provide a firm grip even on loose or soggy surfaces.
Of course, there can be no question of any kind of movement on a dirt road. These wheels are designed exclusively for field use.
Another economical option is made from a steel circle with a diameter of 15 mm. You can use the steering wheel from the valve on the main gas pipeline, if you can get a pair somewhere. Hooks are welded to the outer rim, and a suitable hub is attached in the center.
The next design is made from car rims. This is the best option for a homemade tiller. When designing, you provide for the standard wheel hubs from the car, and you purchase a complete set of 4 rims. Install tires on one pair, and the second will be for heavy soil.
We take a regular steel corner 50-60 mm and cut it into pieces, slightly wider than your discs. In the middle of one side we cut an angle grinder triangular sector 60 °.
We heat the corner with a gas burner and bend it along the cutout. The joint can be lightly tacked by welding for extra rigidity. We weld the resulting blanks to the outer side of the disc, maintaining an equal distance.
We repeat the assembly on the second disk, keeping in mind the same distance between the corners. Now you can quickly change rubber wheels to steel lugs without experiencing problems with the seat. The disks are the same!
The design of the rims can be simplified. It is enough to cut off the horizontal part (rim) and weld on the steel plates.
The variant is suitable for frequent wheel changes on the same hub type. Only the disks need to be matched.
DIY tiller lugs are a good way to save money
- How to make lugs with existing factory wheels
- The simplest do-it-yourself lugs for a tiller
- Homemade lugs for a tiller of complex design
- Combined lugs
What we call wheels. in the case of a tiller, is a lug. In the overwhelming majority of factory designs, the equipment is equipped with conventional wheels with embossed tires for off-road.
This is done in order to be able to use the tractive force for the transport of goods on ordinary dirt roads. Important! The use of a tiller (even factory made) on public roads is prohibited. Even if it has quality factory wheels installed.
Therefore, many owners of small agricultural machinery make lugs for the tiller with their own hands. In this case, it is only necessary to fit the landing nest to the hubs of the factory motor plow. When changing the mode of use, simply mount the desired wheels.
If the tiller is used only in the field, ordinary rubber tires are not needed. And for a mini-tractor of your own production, you do not have to make ordinary wheels at all. In this case, homemade lugs for the tiller will be the only kit.
The design is not new, the first tractors were produced without rubber tires. The wheels were metal, and powerful transverse or diagonal plates of thick steel were installed on the drive rollers.
Combined lugs
If your technique is homemade, and the ground is not too difficult for work, the wheels should be suitable. You can make do-it-yourself lugs on the tiller using a tractor tread.
For manufacturing, you need the halves of the rims from the “Zhiguli”. We select tires with a developed tread from the tractor. We cut off the sidewalls, we get a closed rubber ring with a good tread. We open the halves from the rims and twist them firmly after laying the tires.
The resulting lugs allow you to move along a compacted dirt road without fear of loosening it. On the soft soil of the plowed field, the wheels will also not let you down, although the tractive effort will be less than when using the metal version.
If, in addition to the tenacity of the wheels, there is the task of obligatory loosening of the soil in the rut, knife-type lugs are made. You can create a homemade rim for attaching the hooks, or you can weld them onto rims.
The only drawback of this design is that the knife-type lugs are not suitable for normal tiller movement. In any case, the land in the track will be plowed up. When loosening the soil in spring in combination with traditional nozzles, the width of the soil cultivated in one pass doubles, saving your time.
Output:
It doesn’t matter which way you make the lugs. The main thing is that it is not difficult at all, and the savings are huge.
There are still questions, see homemade lugs for the tiller from what was found in the barn.
Tiller trailer options
Depending on the planned volume of transportation, the method of using the trailer and the capabilities of the tiller, several different options can be made:
- The lightest single axle trailer for 50-70 kg. cargo without taking into account the weight of the driver, the easiest way is to make such an option from a heavy single-axle garden cart with rubber running. All that needs to be done is to weld the tiller hitch, made of a plow hitch, and a small seat stand to the handle;
- A versatile small trailer for small loads. Unlike the previous version, such a trailer can lift up to 120 kg. It is safe and stable even on uneven ground. The construction of the U-shaped frame is welded from an I-beam, a hitch is installed on the drawbar to the tiller from the plow, which can be used as a stand;
- A heavy rubber trailer will make the most of the tiller’s capabilities. Having spent money on metal profiles and penny spare parts from the chassis of the car, you will receive a convenient design of a trailer for tillers, costing several hundred dollars.
The hard option will allow you to transfer at once the attachments, and the plow, and the entire stock of potatoes for planting. The service life of such a machine is tens of years.
Trailer frame: 1. brace (corner 21x21x3), 2. seat frame (corner 21x21x3), 3. riser (pipe 50x25x4), 4. seat racks (corner 40x40x4), 5.14. front struts (pipe 50×25), 6, 15. longitudinal side members (corner 40x40x4), 7.8. right wheel axle supports (corner 32x32x4), 9.16. rear struts (pipe 50×25), 10. reinforcing cross member (corner 40x40x4), 11. body of the longitudinal hinge (pipe 58×4 ), 12. wheel axle (rod with a diameter of 30), 13.17. transverse spars (corner 40x40x4), 18. kerchiefs (s4)
DIY Tiller Trailer
When planning to buy a tiller, you almost always have to think about good attachments for full-fledged work on the land. Plow attachments and a tiller trailer are as necessary as air. You cannot argue with this statement, but they cost a lot, and it is not always possible to carve out money for the purchase of such a carriage from the limited budget of an ordinary person. Therefore, it is better to spend the bulk of the capital on purchasing a cool powerful motor unit with an American or Japanese engine, and make a trailer for a tiller with your own hands. over, it is not a problem to find drawings for any version of a trailer for a tiller.
We make the chassis of the trailer for the tiller
The trailer will be made on a rubber track, this will greatly simplify the control of the tiller, increase safety and comfort when driving. Wheels with hubs on two support bearings provide minimal rolling resistance, so even with a fully loaded cargo compartment, the tiller will quite easily pass on a primer or even grassy ground.
This option does not use full-fledged braking devices, but technically there is such an opportunity, and if you wish, you can supplement the hubs with caps and brake pads from the M412. In order not to mess with hydraulics, you can use a cable drive from the hand brake.
To install a pipe with bearings and hubs on a trailer, it is necessary to pre-cut and weld to the frame three support vertical posts from a metal profile 40x40mm., Each 120-150 mm high. When installing the pipe, it will take a lot of patience to accurately position the undercarriage parallel to the cross beam of the trailer frame. The tubular axle provides high strength and rigidity even when the maximum load is exceeded twice or when cornering at a high speed, as for a tiller.
Next, we weld the pipe, install and adjust the position of the hubs in the pipe so that the runout of the wheel disk, dressed and tightened with nuts on the hub, is minimal. Immediately after completing the alignment, grab the seam with welding dots and scald the full seam.
To reduce the load on the vertical struts, it is necessary to cut and weld amplifiers in the form of a metal profile from the pipe to the frame of the frame.
To attach the trailer to the tiller, you can modify the standard plow-based hitch or make an adapter for the towbar type. The main condition is that the connection should be able to rotate freely in the horizontal plane, not interfere with the control of the tiller and be strong enough, given the large weight of the structure.
A vertical stand with a bench or seat for the driver must be installed on the trailer triangle. The height and location of the seat are selected based on the length of the tiller’s control sticks. It is recommended to close the space under your feet with a metal mesh or welded thin reinforcement.
How to make a trailer for a tiller with your own hands
To build a heavy and stable trailer for the tiller, we need the following equipment and materials:
- Electric welding machine, angle grinder, electric drill with a set of drills, with a dozen electrodes;
- Steel profile. tubular square 40×40 mm.20m, 20x40mm.15m., Steel tube with an inner diameter corresponding to the outer dimension of the hub bearing, sheet metal 2mm thick. and a total area of 2x3m.;
- Two hubs assembled, from the M2140 or M412 car, a pair of Muscovite wheels with “live” rubber, two pairs of awnings for garage doors.
The work on the manufacture of a trailer for the tiller with painting work will take at least three days. The main dimensions of the trailer are clear from the diagram, the carrying capacity of the given diagram is at least 500 kg, a greater weight for an ordinary tiller is dangerous. If you purchased a trailer by type “ZUBR”and or “Garden Scout GS 101DE” with a diesel engine of 12 horses, you can load more.
We assemble the frame according to drawings and photos
At the initial stage, it is necessary to cut the material and weld the frame for the cargo compartment of the trailer with electric welding. It is a rectangular frame welded from a square-section metal profile. If you follow the drawings, you get 120×180 cm. We will make 150×200 cm. Inside the rectangular frame, you need to make two transverse spacers, as in the photo. This will strengthen the bottom of the cargo compartment of the future trailer.
Next, cut out 40x20mm from the profile. and weld four sides, each with a height of 500 mm. We sew up the sides with steel sheets and weld them to the base of the cargo compartment, lay a sheet of metal on the bottom and attach it to the beams made of metal profiles. The tailgate can be installed on large door sheds, allowing it to be folded back when unloading. We carefully process all welded parts of the structure with a rust converter and cover with a primer.
At the next stage, it is necessary to cut out from the metal profile and weld the trailing device for fastening to the tiller and the supporting frame on which the previously made cargo compartment of the trailer will be installed.
The shape and dimensions of the supporting frame, and the method of attaching the trailer to the tiller are clear from the photo. The dimensions of the square part of the frame correspond to half of the cargo compartment.
I make a VINTAGE motorbike from a bicycle.
Next, we turn over the finished cargo compartment of the trailer, install the frames over its frame, mark the places on the frame and frame for fastening garage sheds, as in the photo.
Sheds must be carefully leveled and welded with maximum weld quality. Thanks to this rationalization, the cargo compartment of the trailer will be able to tilt for unloading without changing the position of the trailer.
Controlling a heavy gun carriage to the tiller will require a certain skill, so the first attempts should be carried out exclusively in a deserted area. In addition, for such structures, traffic police officers may require registration and equipping a carriage for a tiller with dimensions, brake lights, brakes.
General information and characteristics
For a cart, tiller, cultivator, the hub is an irreplaceable component. With the help of this part, and also, thanks to the installation of a special hitch, it is possible to much more efficiently and better quality, for example, hilling and plowing the land, harvesting, planting potatoes.
The hub for the tiller is of two main types. In particular, these are:
- hub with differential for tiller with unlocking (differential);
- ordinary detail.
It is believed that the hub is differential. it is universal for all types of tillers. Hubs for a tiller with a differential are needed if the walk-behind tractor is not equipped with a wheel unlocking function, and turning or turning the agricultural machinery causes great difficulties at the end of the beds. Differential hub with bearings for cart or tiller will improve the maneuverability of the device. That is why the differential hub is universal for all types of tillers: it allows you to make only one additional revolution to the stop and makes it easier to maneuver the device.
Differential options (or semi-axles with a differential) consist of:
- from the retainer;
- one or two bearings.
To make a U-turn, it is necessary to remove the lock from the latch on the right side.
The hub for the tiller can also be of different diameters. There are such details in shape:
- round;
- hex (24 and 32 millimeters);
- sliding.
Tiller hubs. features and how to do it yourself?
Tiller hubs are a necessary element to install pneumatic wheels or metal lugs on the unit. It belongs to the mounted type of equipment. Its main purpose is to aggregate pneumatic or metal wheels with hooks to motoblock equipment.
In this article, we will talk in detail about what a hub for a tiller is, what are its main functions. We will also touch on the topic of how to make hubs for a tiller with your own hands, using ready-made drawings and pictures for this.
Helpful hints and tips
When using hub elements for a cultivator or walk-behind tractor, you need to remember the following rules. They will help improve the performance of these parts.
- When ordering a hub for a tiller, it is imperative to indicate the type and model of the motoblock device.
- Traditionally, one hub set is sold complete with agricultural equipment. It is recommended to purchase an additional kit. Then, when working with different types of mounted agricultural equipment, it will not be necessary to rearrange the hub components. In particular, this applies to the use of lugs. This “trick” will save time.
- If pneumatic wheels are included in the kit for the motoblock device, then the hub parts will also go in the kit for this agricultural technique.
How to make hubs for a tiller with your own hands?
It is not difficult to make the hubs for the tiller according to the drawings with your own hands. The technology is simple.
To begin with, the product is turned from a metal blank on a lathe. Alternatively, you can grind a flange and weld it to a part of a metal rod or pipe. Grinding the part is worth according to the dimensions in the drawing.
For making an element with your own hands, it is best to use high-quality steel. This part will constantly be subjected to serious stress, therefore, it must be durable.