Drilling holes for a confirmation without a conductor. Eccentric screed

Assembly confirmation, nuances of compounds

Confirmates are designed for a through connection of parts made of wood-bearing plate, located perpendicular relative to each other (r-shaped or T-shaped). This furniture fastener requires preliminary sparkling with a special confirmation drill or two standard, 5mm and 7-8mm. The assembly of furniture confirmation is simple and intuitive, but requires accuracy when preliminary marking and flash.

No, no, but disputes among furniturers flare up-why, after all, the confirmation is better than ordinary black self-tapping screws in the assembly of furniture and is it better? Any of the arguments about the area of ​​contact of the threaded parts, the accuracy of the flash, the strength of the screed and the ability to subsequently withstand multiple assembly/disassembly is easily refuted when taking specific examples from personal experience. But, since all modern corps furniture on a factory scale is collected precisely on confirmation, we will accept the leadership of this type of fastener as a given.

Marking and assembly of furniture on confirmation, basic principles

I am not a supporter of the wrestling “on weight”, by putting details to each other and impedeing in one move.

If you clamp the details each time with clamps, the process will be ugly long. after all, the same type of operations are performed the fastest, not multi.route ones.

If, when assembling furniture, confirmation with additional fixation is neglected, then it is not a fact that the result will eventually please. it is unlikely that it will be possible to avoid distortions when, after assembly, the ends will unevenly bulge behind the front plane.

The subsequent assembly of furniture on the confirmation will be much more accurate and more accurately more accurate, if you mark and sprinkle the parts separately. end drill 5 mm and front confirmation. Then the furniture will gather as a designer in place, quickly and accurately.

The additive (marking) on ​​a production scale is done on special filler machines. For the manufacture of furniture with your own hands, it is enough to arm yourself with a roulette, a square, a marker and an awl. Special furniture templates (conductors) are convenient, they can be made by yourself or purchased in the finished form.

In fact, they are some blanks with holes that are applied to the details during markings. so that each time do not measure the same distance.

Consider the principle of marking on a simple hinged shelf.

In order to avoid confusion, for fasteners (confirmation), one and the same distance equal to 50 mm are always postponed from the edge (if the widths of the table are already 150 mm, then less).

After the places of fasteners are determined in the volumetric drawing, it is convenient to carry out on the parts separately. that is, draw up specifications for the flash. I use the BASICE Furniture program for this.

Before the marking, the parts must be “turned”, view for hidden defects. During the transportation process, scratches may form on the surface of a laminated wood-bearing plate, chips on the end. All this can be hidden, the part is expanded so that the defect will become invisible, it will be hidden in the inside of the finished product.

Marking is strictly made from the front parts of the furniture, the reflector is the front colorful edge. Hall (sidewalls) are always sprinkled mirror.

It is better to flash a confirmation drill to the stop, with a deepening under Zenkovka. a drowned confirmation hat.

Loop marking

A simple plastic conductor that will help make markings for accurate drilling holes for door loops. The operation is performed in two stages: first the holes are marked and drilled on the cabinet, then the template is turned and fixed using guide pins. After mark the holes on the door. The transverse bar on the template allows you to withstand the necessary gap between the details.

expensive, but also a more functional template, with which you can not only mark, but also immediately drill holes under the loops. It provides for the adjustment of the retreat from the edge of the part and pin for fixing. The kit also includes from one to five sovers of the Forrt of various diameters (15, 20, 25, 30 and 35 mm).

Conductor for doughs and confirmation

A self-centering template with bushings for a diameter of 6, 8 and 10 mm, which will make the holes strictly in the center of the sheet woody plate or plywood and achieve the perfect connection of details. The kit also includes the corresponding diameters.

A more advanced version of the previous template, with which you can drill holes for fasteners not only in the ends of the details, but also on their plane. Thanks to the pins, the distance between the holes is more accurate. The set includes bushings, curtains and a small supply of cans.

Features of the furniture Eurovint, the main scope of application

Popular type of fastening. Eurovint Furniture is known in various variations: confirmation, Euro.Shurup, Evric. It got its name from the Confirmat brand, under which the German company produced fasteners. The main scope of euro.stones is the assembly of furniture structures.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of the use of furniture Eurovint:

• Low cost;
• Speed ​​and reliability of connecting parts;
• The fence of the screed of various types of parts;
• High with.aged loads for bending and separation;
• Simplicity of installation that does not require additional special devices;
• Does not destroy the fasteners, thereby the interior items can be assembled and disassembled.

The disadvantages of eurulates include the fact that they are not hidden fasteners. So that the products have a neat appearance, they have to be hidden using special plugs or plastic linings. Another minus of the use of fasteners is the restriction of furniture assembly. Eurovint does not allow the process more than 3-4 times. This is due to the fact that with frequent disassembly of furniture, the thread can be washed or broken.

Dimensions and materials of manufacture

The dimensions of the confirmation are as follows: 5×40, 5×50, 6.3×40, 6.3×50, 7×40, 7×50, 7×60, 7×70 mm. The most common are single-element screeds with a thread diameter of 7 mm, while 50-70 mm long.

Fasteners made of high.quality materials are made, often from carbon steel. They are applied to coatings that prevent the appearance of corrosion. Coatings are:

Eurolates from aluminum alloy are quite plastic, they do not break during the assembly of furniture. Thanks to these properties, fasteners can bend, with proper installation it can also be easily removed.

Design features

Eurovintes for connecting furniture parts, are a one.element screed. In fact, they are the same screws, only their body is more massive. Confirmates with a wide step, the head is elongated, the hat has a secret design. Slots for the instrument are different. Some are suitable for a figure screwdriver, others for a hexagonal key. Unlike other hardware, the ends of eurulates have a direct section with a round section.

The use of the confirmation for the hexagon is considered more practical and reliable. After connecting the parts with each other, they can be tightened with the help of a hexagonal bit, electric screwdriver, drill or special key. Fastenger elements for a cross.shaped screwdriver cannot provide such reliability of the mount, since the parts cannot be tightened tightly. Subsequently, this will affect the strength of the structure, it can shatter and lose stability.

Confirms are used to connect parts made of:

Eurovintes are able to replace standard corners. They easily withstand all the bending loads. This feature allows the confirmation not only the fastener, but also the frame.forming function. To mask the fasteners use plastic plugs (diameter 12 mm), similar to the common color of interior items. They are made from plastic. There are also special round stickers on sale. The thickness of the plugs does not exceed 0.4 mm. They can be selected the same shade as the furniture itself. Interior items acquire a finished look, Eurovlots on them become inconspicuous. Self.adhesive elements are more common, they are convenient, easy to use.

Installation rules

Before installing the mounting element, it is necessary to make the appropriate markup. For these purposes, there are special conductors or templates. They significantly accelerate the process and make the work more accurate. Conductors exclude errors in the markings and are used mainly with large volumes of work. If simple marking is needed, you can do without templates. If all the stages of work are done correctly, the connection of parts in this way will be the most reliable, durable and at the same time convenient.

To correctly install the confirmation, you need to know some of the nuances regarding the material of the manufacture of furniture and the design features of the fastener element. Three holes must be drilled: for the threaded part, for the smooth head and for the hat. For each of them, drills of different diameters are selected. Drilling several holes significantly increases the connection time of the elements. In this case, a special drill intended specifically for Eurovint comes to the rescue. It is made in such a way that a hole suitable for all three parts of a single.element screed is drilled at a time.

• First of all, you need to drill a hole under a one.element screed. To do this, use a drill with a diameter of 4 mm to 7 mm;
• Step cutters will facilitate the making holes designed to arrange a hat in it. Mills are attached to the drill. The use of this particular method contributes to the simultaneous formation of the correct hole in two elements at once. The diameter of the hole for the Eurovint, or rather for the threaded part, is 5 mm, for the head. 7 mm;
• On the first part, a through hole is made, where a smooth head and a Eurovint hat will be placed;
• In another part, a dull hole is drilled, in which the internal thread is formed by drilling the threaded part of the confirmation in the end;
• For a more accurate connection and prevention of a shift, the elements are tightly fixed with special devices (furniture vise, clamping machine and others).

Address and connection of furniture parts on furniture screed, confirmation, Eurovint

Most of the details in case furniture made of wood-bearing plate are connected to furniture screeds, which are also called confirmation in the name of one of the firms of their producing. The connection of furniture screeds is strong and withstanding several disassembly cycles. furniture assembly (usually not more than three). In the production of furniture, holes in the parts for screeds make special drilling. filler machines, at home there is enough drill or electric screwdriver.

Standard sizes of screeds 7×50, 7×70, 5×50. The table shows the main sizes for all sizes of screeds:

The screeds are twisted with a hexagonal bit or manually with a special hexagon. There are screeds with barrels for a cross bit or screwdriver, but they are found much less and usually 5×50 mm. After the screed is twisted into the furniture case, its hat is closed with decorative plastic or self.adhesive plugs.

To connect two parts with a furniture screed, not only from wood-bearing plate, but also from any sheet material (wood-fiber slab, plywood, furniture shield) two holes are drilled. In the details indicated on the diagram by the letter “A” (vertical), the through hole corresponding to the diameter of the barrel of the screed is drilled. Respectively, this is 7 mm and 5 mm for different types of screeds. In detail “B” (horizon) the hole is drilled deaf, under the threaded part of the screed. For screeds 7×50 and 7×70, this is a diameter of 5 mm, a drill is also suitable for a 4.5 mm drill, a 6 mm drill will be large and will not provide good fastening of parts among themselves. For 5×50 screeds, take a 3 mm drill.

When drilling holes for the screed, it is important to remember:

The depth of the hole should be equal or slightly larger than the threaded part of the screed. If the depths are not enough, then when you start to tighten the screed, it will come to a dead end and the thread will tear out all the chips from the wood-bearing plate and the parts are not firmly connected, and the screed hat will stick out on the surface.

A through hole for a screed bar should not be located close to the edge of the sheet. When working with 16 mm, wood-brown stove is a distance of 8 mm in the center of the drill from the edge. Otherwise, when twisting the screed, you will have a deformation of the end of the part on which the hillock formed by compressed when twisting the screed of the wood-based slab.

In those places where sticking hats of screeds are not appropriate for aesthetic reasons, for example, a countertop at the table or an open regiment, under which there is an annexed vertical part to it, eccentric screeds are used.

The first method: using a stapler

At the end of the boards, the author scores two brackets. Then we carefully take out one edge of the staple so as not to break.

Install the bracket perpendicular to the surface, and bit off so that there is a piece of about 3 mm long.

We act similarly and with the second bracket. As a result, we get two identical segments.

After that, we circle each segment of the bracket with a pencil, as shown in the picture below (for the convenience of positioning).

The prepared board is installed at an angle of 90 degrees on the second workpiece, and then click on top with the hand.

As a result, we get small recesses that will serve as a guide for drilling holes.

We take out the brackets, and drill holes (first in the first workpiece, then in the second). We insert the penalties and connect. Accuracy with this positioning is quite high.

Second way: using nails

This method is possibly less accurate, but much easier than the first (although the first is not particularly difficult).

Two cloves with a small hat should be attached to the end of the wooden workpiece using painting tape.

With a hammer, we slightly pour each clove, or rather, his hat. Then we do the same as in the first method.

information on how to make accurate marking for dadies, if there is no conductor, you can watch the video below. Source. YouTube Channel “The carpentry lessons Aquila Workshop”.

Drill to the confirmation (Eurovint)

A specific form of confirmation drill, with a characteristic extension from a diameter of 5 mm to a diameter of 8 mm, allows you to make two holes at once, under a narrow and wide part of the Eurovint with a zenkovka for a hat. “Work” with this type of drill with both front and horizontal details, flashing the end of the furniture shields and facial details. It is important not to confuse the “face” with the “wrong side” in the process. otherwise untidy chips instead of a neat zenkovka, in which the confiramata hat “drowned”, it will be difficult to hide.

The most “running” after confirmation. Used for through and outlet flash when installing handles, commanders, eccentric rods with a self.izing head, dampers and other accessories. Some masters for flashing the ends of frontal parts made of wood-brown stove for confirmates prefer to use a drill with a diameter of 5 mm.

Furniture drill 8 mm

They are used for flapping holes for the rods of an eccentric screed, cans, cut-out push-up (pushers and shock absorbers), glass holders, shoe pins and specific flag-mounted awnings. And, as previously written, a combination of drills 5 mm and 8 mm allows you to not use a confirmation drill during the additive process.

A thick furniture drill with a diameter of 10 mm is rarely used. But without it, you can not do when installing screeds, futures of reinforced eccentrics, some types of cut pushers and smooth passfer, secret loops. It is also convenient for them to make holes in the walls of furniture under the output of the wires when installing the backlight.

Installation rules

Many who first encounter confirmation have a logical question regarding which holes to drill under the Eurovint used and how this procedure is performed in general.

Problems with how to drill holes, if you have previously worked with a drill and imagine the principle of its work, should not arise.

Before installing the confirmation in the furniture case, it is necessary to make the appropriate markup. It will take a conductor or template for its application. With their help, you can significantly accelerate the performance of work, as well as achieve a high level of accuracy. If simple marking is performed, you will not need a conductor (template).

For competent installation of the confirmation, it is recommended to learn in advance about the material of the furniture itself, as well as about the design features of Eurovint. In total, 3 holes are needed:

For each hole, a drill of the corresponding diameter is used. It is the time to create several holes that make you spend much more time on assembly of furniture.

But there is a solution. It is presented in the form of a special drill, which is intended specifically for confirmation. Find him in Leroy Merlin or in any other store of furniture fittings will not be difficult. The peculiarity of a special drill is that it allows you to prepare 3 different holes at the same time for one entry at once. This is due to the design of the drill itself.

The nuances of fasteners

Carrying out even the simplest work on fastening two parts of furniture requires the executor of the presence of special professional skills. Holes for the screed are created by drill, the dimensions of which are 4 and 6 mm. A cutting cutting cutter is used under the hat. Experts advise turning to this particular option. it makes it possible to make the required hole of the correct size for one movement for one movement. It is advisable to use high.speed tools. Low will lead to the formation of shavings in the hole. the drill will tighten it there.

It is recommended to pay attention to the extraction of the drill. unwanted chips may appear. They will not be critical if the screw has a wide hat that hides all the shortcomings of the work. Such fasteners will provide the highest degree of adhesion. When working with confirmation for the first time, everything should be done manually, if a high resistance of the screw occurs, you can easily remove it from the adhesive parts of the furniture without damaging them.

The quality of the connection will also depend on the accuracy of the marking intended on furniture. All experts are approaching this step with full responsibility. Two types of markings are performed on the part of the part located with the overlap on the end of the other:

• the depth of the drilled hole is 5-10 cm;
• The central part of the hole should be located from the edge at a distance of ½ of the thickness of the connected part.

On the connected parts, the marking is placed on the end part, strictly in the center of the furniture slab.

The most accurate marking can be performed by drilling openings of the through type in the part of. Further, by applying the second element to it, the place of the hole intended for the Euro.Shurup is noted. Thus, the assembly will be as flat as possible. At the stage of marking to facilitate the work, a template is used to drill holes for the confirmation

The plugs for the confirmation

This type of plugs allows you to completely close the hats that remain on the surface of the parts of the furniture. Used to give furniture of the completed type or for decorative purposes. It can also be used to conceal the existing holes, and in case of detection of insignificant defects on the surface of the furniture.

Color variations of the plugs are selected based on the main tones of the wood-based slab. Self.adhesive plugs are more popular than plastic. They are completely faceless, but they are extremely convenient to operate. Their cost is almost the same. Plastics are used to manufacture plastic plugs. The product has a diameter of 1.2 cm and a rounded shape. Fixed to a small ledge (hexagon), which leaves the confirmation. Self.adhesive elements are considered more universal and are made from melamine. They also have a rounded shape. Another advantage of plugs can be called their thickness, which does not exceed 0.4 mm and makes them almost invisible against the general background.

Possible problems

In the process of work, some people are faced with a problem that consists in the fact that the confirmation is scrolling and cannot completely delve into a drilled landing hole, while its flat head protrudes above the surface of the material by about 1-2 mm. Most often, this situation occurs if the hole for the Eurovint is made not by a special confirmation drill, but 2 ordinary drills with different diameters are used. For example, a European screw was chosen, the size of which is 7 mm in diameter and 50 mm in length. For the landing hole, the drill on wood is selected: the diameter of one of them is 5 mm, and the other is 7 mm. A drill, the diameter of which is 5 mm, make a dull hole to a depth of 50 mm, then take a drill 7 mm and a small recess is made for a wide part of the coffirmat. Despite the fact that the Eurovint does not rest against the bottom of the deep hole, it is not possible to tighten it with a plane of furniture blank.

In this case, experts recommend performing a wider separation under the hat and the smooth part of the European screw, for which they take a drill whose diameter is 8 mm. When screwing the methysis, a small backlash will appear, which will make it possible to tighten the Eurovint close to the surface of the workpiece.

If such a separation is not done, then when tightening the confirmation, many cracks or chips of material is a wood-brown slab near the hole, it is no longer possible to eliminate such a defect with a plug attached to the screw hat-the furniture product will be spoiled.

A small device that solved a big problem. Furniture conductor

Accurate drilling. Even without markings. Even inappropriate drill. And even a drill with a cartridge beating. And all this is fast. I drilled about 200 holes, and not one of them was a hole. How is this possible? I’ll tell you now.

Once I bought a closet in Ikea. As the Swedes love, it was sold in a cardboard box, in the form of a stack of boards and a bag with fittings. Having quickly collected it, I decided that these boards are not much different from the furniture shield from Leroy Merlin, only cut in the right size and holes are drilled for fasteners. and the price is several times higher. At the same time, you can cut the sheet material in the same Leroy almost for thanks.

Then we made repairs and for a long time could not decide where to attach a washing machine. She lacked a place in the bathroom, she wanted to free the kitchen for more important things, she did not look in the hallway Now, if I hide it in the cabinet, it would solve the problem. But where to get a cabinet with an internal size of 60 cm? The finished one is not sold anywhere, and I decided to make it myself. That first experience was not quite successful. The cabinet gathered at eccentric screeds and confirmation (these are such screws for wood-bruise). For an eccentric screed, you need to drill two holes in perpendicular planes with intersecting axes. A couple of times I missed the drill, the holes had to be drilled so that everything coincides, and, therefore, backlash appeared. One hole was completely through, almost half drilled. I certainly collected the cabinet, but there was an understanding that not everything is so simple. And the cabinet, when pressing the machine, jumps and rattles.

And then a new repair broke out. This time it was necessary to build a mega-skirt. It should be wide (more than 2 m.) deep (76 cm. in depth), made of birch plywood 21mm should be made, and most importantly. the lower part should not have a base. The idea is that the cabinets are rolled into the lower section of the cabinet on wheels. This greatly simplifies the loading of things into such a deep closet. Allows you to quickly roll out, say, a cabinet with tools and roll it to the repair site. Or a cabinet with books to a desk. And don’t run after every trifle in the closet. This is something like this should look like:

(doors and boxes/shelf are not conditionally drawn, but they will be)

Of course, such legs will instantly separate without attaching to a single base, and the cabinet will collapse. To prevent this from happening, the cabinet is mounted on the bearing wall of the house, she carries the entire load. This relieves the question of the back wall. This will allow you to replace the flooring if necessary, without pulling out the cabinet from the room. Just roll out the cabinets, remove the lower part of the partitions, and the rest of the closet continues to hang on the wall.

All my Wishlist, all together and each individually, scared away potential manufacturers of the cabinet. Firms that make furniture are full, but almost everyone drives cabinets made of wood-bearing plate of 16 mm, a depth of 600, all according to more or less standard drawings, and the customer is only allowed to choose the color of the wood-box and the pattern on the sash. So it became clear that I have to do all the work myself. But the old trauma with a pedestal for a washing machine made itself felt, and this time I decided not to leave myself a chance for a mistake. The basic elements of fasteners of the entire structure are a double eccentric screed and a screw with a barrel.shaped nut. And this means that you will have to drill a lot and you need to drill for sure. Therefore, the hero of my review was purchased: a conductor for drilling under an eccentric screed.

There are many conductors for drilling the end of the board. There is a parallelogram type, there are such types of slingshots (I explain my pictures for a long time, I don’t allow other people to apply to the review here, so you will find on the Internet, if necessary), in general, the choice is big. But the conductor who would allow drilling two holes at once precisely under the screed, I found only this. Let’s see what was sent to me:

Hard plastic coffee, inside foam lining and tools in bags.

Two wood drills at 8 and 10 mm, one force drill for 15 mm, restrictive couplings for them, several cans, a key for nuts, a hexagonal key for fixing restrictive couplings, and the device itself itself.

Here he is. The thing is quite weighty, made of cast metal, most likely cast iron. Fixed on the board with a screw clamp. On cheap clamps, the plate is kept due to the breakdown of the screw, over time it falls off or pushed, the screw begins to scratch the board. This will not happen here. A plate made of thick steel, it is smooth and even, fixed with a screw. Time showed that she can even clamp it with a stained board made of soft wood, there are no traces.

The maximum thickness of the clamping board is about 50 mm.

In the slots of the case, two bushings are moved and fixed with nuts. One for drilling 8 mm, from the side of the end of the board.

The minimum indentation of the axis of the drilled hole from the surface of the board is 5 mm.

The scale on the frame is made by engraving, t.e. will not be erased over time.

The end of the bushings is slightly drowned into the cavalry case, literally for a share of a millimeter. This makes it possible to move the sleeve even when the clamp is clamping the board. Of course, for this it is necessary to loosen the fixing nut.

Drill for furniture Eurovint

In order to reduce the number of operations and accelerate the assembly, a special ghost drill has been developed. The tool consists of three parts. The first is intended for passing part of the hole for the thread. The second. for the smooth part of the Eurovint. Third. for the zenkovka cone.shaped deepening under the head.

The diameter of the drill to the confirmation is determined by the most popular Eurointa sizes.

Basic markings

The following markings are common:

HSS deciphens as “fast.cutting instrumental steels”. It is these steel (domestic brands P18 and P9M5 or foreign analogue. HSS4341) are used to produce Sovers.

Consider, for example, the most commonly used Eurovint 7 × 50. The diameter of the hole for the thread for it is 4.7 mm, for the cylindrical part. 6.7 mm. Corresponding drill diameters. 4.5 and 6.5 mm or 5 and 7 mm. For the accuracy of centering the holes, the tool tip is made in the form of a pen. The drill is both non.vegetable and composite, which allows you to make an accurate adjustment of the size.

Manufacturers of devices

Tools of this type are produced both by domestic enterprises and a number of foreign companies. Which manufacturer is better? The cheapest are the core made in the PRC. But Chinese manufacturers often do not observe technological culture. In particular, they use not high.speed, but other brands of instrumental steels.

It must be borne in mind that the preparation of holes for Eurovintes is performed by a high.speed tool and in large volumes. This leads to a fairly strong heating of the tool. Not intended for this steel is released, its hardness is reduced. As a result, you have to make great efforts during drilling, which can lead to marriage in the preparation of holes.

Much high.quality tools for the production of the American company Dewalt or Swiss Archimedes. However, their cost is 2-3 times more than domestic, with quite comparable quality. Therefore, in most cases, it is enough to purchase a domestic product, for example, released by the Tula instrumental factory.

Read also: Deciphering the brand of electrodes for welding

Rules of drilling

One of the most important conditions. the holes must be drilled strictly perpendicular to the surface of the workpiece. This is especially true for the recesses performed in the ends of the plates of laminated woody stove. Panels are currently used laminated wood-bearing plate, the thickness of which is 16 mm. Therefore, with any deviation from the vertical, you can simply ruin the workpiece. To avoid this, in practice they use a simple device. a template, thanks to which the drill always enters a part at an angle of 90 degrees.

If the hole is simultaneously performed in two conjugated details, then they must be reliably fixed, for example, using clamps to avoid displacements. Under a single workpiece during through drilling, it is necessary to lay an unnecessary item made of wood or wood-based slab. This will reduce the likelihood of chips on the surface of a laminated wood-based plate at the junction of the drill.

And finally, it is unacceptable to drill the recesses under the Eurovort with an ordinary drill. If its diameter corresponds to the smooth part of the confirmation, then when it is screwed, the thread will not be cut, and this connection will not hold anything. If the diameter of the instrument is selected for thread, when twisting the Eurovint, the laminated wood-bearing plate can burst under the pressure of the smooth part of the mount.

Hi all! If you have at least once assembled the cabinet furniture purchased in the store, or were interested in it, then you probably know about such a fastening as Eurovincant Furniture. He is a confirmation.

The confirmation is called one of the most popular furniture fasteners in our time, which is widely used in the assembly of a case type of furniture. These fasteners were widely used in the 90s of the last century, and since then they do not lose their relevance.

In everyday life, names such as furniture Eurovint, Euro.Shurup, Euroik, etc. are often found in everyday life. But in reality it is correct to call this element only as a one.element screed. This designation seemed to the people too complicated and long. Therefore, all kinds of alternative designations appeared.

As for the name confirmation, it happened purely on behalf of the Confirmat trademark. It belongs to Hafele from Germany and was used precisely in the production of new type of fasteners.

Features of drills for confirmation

When working with a confirming holder, it is important to correctly determine which holes to drill under the Eurovint. Having studied the appearance of the Euro standard screw and given that it is completely included in the part of the part, we can conclude that it is necessary to drill a hole with two different diameters and conical sections

Of course, you can use a constant cross.sectional drill for Eurovint. Rather, you will need two spiral drills of different diameters and two zenkovka. It is quite difficult to choose such a diverse set of tools for each type of confirmation, so it is better to use a special drill for European screw.

Using a confirmation drill, the hole of the required configuration is obtained in one operation. This tool consists of two removable parts. The set includes a regular spiral drill for a tree of a certain diameter. With this drill you will receive a hole in a wooden part where the threaded part of the screw will be screwed.

The second part of the cutting tool is a milling cutter that drilts in the wood a hole under a smooth cylindrical part with the transition, as well as a conical seizure for a secret head. The drill enters the central hole of the cutter and is fixed inside it with a special fixing bolt. The bolt is screwed with a hexagonal key.

The composite drill for furniture joints is convenient in that with the wear of the central drill on wood it can be replaced. You can take a regular drill from a set of suitable diameter, insert it into the cutter and fix it with a fixing screw. When using a suitable confirming drill, the Eurovint is screwed into this hole without unnecessary efforts and does not destroy the structure of the part.

A quality drill for the Euro screw is made of high.speed steel and has the letter HSS in the marking. In addition, the marking on the shank of the drill or cutter should indicate its diameter and working length. The kit should preferably include a hexagonal key for tightening a locking bolt. The cutter of the cutter usually has a cylindrical shape and can be installed in the cartridge of a conventional drill or electric screwdriver. Tretens for laminated wood-brown slab should have increased strength, reliability and good sharpening of cutting edges.

Drilling technology

Holes for the fasteners under consideration must be drilled in strict accordance with the rules and strictly according to the instructions.

Prepare wooden details, clean their surface from dirt and chips. Pre.mark the area of ​​the penetration. One of the main conditions. the holes must be drilled strictly at an angle of ninety degrees

This is especially important for the holes that are created in the transverse edges of the wood-based slab. Currently, laminated wood-bearing plate with a thickness of 16 mm are often used

In this case, with any deviation from the vertical, you can simply scratch or even break the part. To avoid this, in practice a template is used, with which the cutting tool will steadily enter the product at the indicated angle. Check if the selected drill is suitable for the standard European screed used.

In the layer of details

Mark (0.8 cm from the edge and 5–11 cm along the length of the product), then make an incision at the marked point using the awl, this is necessary so that the cutting tool does not “go” in the first few seconds of drilling.

Before drilling, it is necessary to make a lining for a part of an unnecessary pruning wood-bearing plate. This will prevent the appearance of chips at the exit from the part.

In the end

As in all cases described above, here the main principle is that the drill should be located strictly at right angles to the workpiece. Everything is much more complicated if you need to drill the end of the details

The work must be carried out very carefully, otherwise the drill can “slip” to the side and thereby spoil the product

When working with the end of the element, the cutting tool must be removed from the wood-bearing plate so that it does not clog with chips.

Two at the same time

This method is especially accurate and also the fastest. However, in order to drill a hole in several elements at once, they must be rigidly fixed before work, for which you can use clamps, clamps and other specialized devices.