Where is the carb adjustment scew(s) on a 26hp LC Kawi?
Hello, I’ve searched but haven’t been able to find info on adjusting the carb on a 26hp LC Kawi. (If I missed it I apologize). I have a lot of spine and back problems so I’m trying to keep my “laying on my back time” to a minimum in the hopes someone will be kind enough to explain, or even better, post a pic or two. I see a couple of screws that appear to be carb mixture screws but I want to be sure before moving anything. I remember the old saying, “experience is something you get right AFTER you need it”!
It appears that my engine is running lean because it stumbles at idle when attempting to move the mower from stopped position.(This “stumble” happens when the governor momentarily engages even if the engine is hot). It also stumbles when engaging blades. I also have to use the choke to start no matter how hot the engine is. (I know that the need for the choke is fairly common in newer engines, but between this and the fact that it “leans out” momentarily when the governor engages, I feel it’s too lean).
I need to know the location of the adjustment screw or (or screws). Is there one for both idle and WOT or is there just one? Is there anything “unusual” I need to know compared to a normal “run of the mill” carb adjustment?
The dealer that I purchased my mower from sells mainly farm tractors and all kinds of eqp, so I’m thinking it will be easier for me to get the answer here than there.
StanWilhite
i need you to get your engine model and spec numbers so i can look up your exact carb.
Take it back where you bought it. Must be a John Deere or something. Kawasaki engine dealers wont be able to lookup parts or get any info on that.
Looking at the service manual it appears its all fixed jets so there are really no adjustments. There are adjustable Pilot air screws but it doesnt give any information on adjusting them. I generally never touch these or set them to factory specs if I do have to remove them.
StanWilhite
Take it back where you bought it. Must be a John Deere or something. Kawasaki engine dealers wont be able to lookup parts or get any info on that.
Looking at the service manual it appears its all fixed jets so there are really no adjustments. There are adjustable Pilot air screws but it doesnt give any information on adjusting them. I generally never touch these or set them to factory specs if I do have to remove them.
StanWilhite
Take it back where you bought it. Must be a John Deere or something. Kawasaki engine dealers wont be able to lookup parts or get any info on that.
Looking at the service manual it appears its all fixed jets so there are really no adjustments. There are adjustable Pilot air screws but it doesnt give any information on adjusting them. I generally never touch these or set them to factory specs if I do have to remove them.
Hey Pugs, I’m just curious. What is different about this motor that the engine dealers can’t look up parts etc? Thanks, Stan
pugs
Hmmm, was not aware Bad Boy was one of them.
Some companies buy engines from Kawasaki built to their specs and limited to their machines. All the warranty is through that OEM then instead of Kawasaki. Basically Kawasaki washes their hands of the engine when it leaves them. These OEM’s are called SSOs = Self Servicing OEM. And when I click on that engine in Kawasaki parts lookup system it already says SSO next to it along with bringing up a note saying you cant mess with that engine.
John Deere is the biggest one. Kubota I believe was one, not sure anymore. Cub Cadet I think has this for one used in a utility vehicle. Kohler Marine Generator division does this. Kawasaki’s own Mule utility vehicle is off limits to non ATV dealers even though it uses an engine from the power equipment side. I think there is some golf cart manufacturer on there too.
As I said, I was not aware of Bad Boy doing this. Either this is something new for them or they got their hands on a bunch of surplus engines that were supposed to go to one of the SSO’s. Any Bad Boy dealer know the answer to this?
Alot of the Kaw engines you see in surplus engine catalogs are these SSO engines so you have to be careful. The original OEM probably wont warranty them if bought surplus and Kawasaki definitely wont since it stopped being a Kawasaki when it left their plant.
StanWilhite
Hmmm, was not aware Bad Boy was one of them.
Some companies buy engines from Kawasaki built to their specs and limited to their machines. All the warranty is through that OEM then instead of Kawasaki. Basically Kawasaki washes their hands of the engine when it leaves them. These OEM’s are called SSOs = Self Servicing OEM. And when I click on that engine in Kawasaki parts lookup system it already says SSO next to it along with bringing up a note saying you cant mess with that engine.
John Deere is the biggest one. Kubota I believe was one, not sure anymore. Cub Cadet I think has this for one used in a utility vehicle. Kohler Marine Generator division does this. Kawasaki’s own Mule utility vehicle is off limits to non ATV dealers even though it uses an engine from the power equipment side. I think there is some golf cart manufacturer on there too.
As I said, I was not aware of Bad Boy doing this. Either this is something new for them or they got their hands on a bunch of surplus engines that were supposed to go to one of the SSO’s. Any Bad Boy dealer know the answer to this?
Alot of the Kaw engines you see in surplus engine catalogs are these SSO engines so you have to be careful. The original OEM probably wont warranty them if bought surplus and Kawasaki definitely wont since it stopped being a Kawasaki when it left their plant.
Pugs, thanks for the time and effort to give such an informative answer. I could see how you could get into trouble buying a surplus engine like this. good to know. My BB is an 09 and I’m pretty sure I saw the same engine on a Ferris while I was looking around deciding what to buy. Once again, thanks for the info! Stan
pugs
Its the S07 thats for an SSO. The same engine may be used on a Ferris but its probably not an S07. Most of the rest of the FD731V’s are not made for SSOs. They have S00 up to S08. Only the S07 and S02 are SSO engines.
Hello, I’ve searched but haven’t been able to find info on adjusting the carb on a 26hp LC Kawi. (If I missed it I apologize). I have a lot of spine and back problems so I’m trying to keep my “laying on my back time” to a minimum in the hopes someone will be kind enough to explain, or even better, post a pic or two. I see a couple of screws that appear to be carb mixture screws but I want to be sure before moving anything. I remember the old saying, “experience is something you get right AFTER you need it”!
It appears that my engine is running lean because it stumbles at idle when attempting to move the mower from stopped position.(This “stumble” happens when the governor momentarily engages even if the engine is hot). It also stumbles when engaging blades. I also have to use the choke to start no matter how hot the engine is. (I know that the need for the choke is fairly common in newer engines, but between this and the fact that it “leans out” momentarily when the governor engages, I feel it’s too lean).
I need to know the location of the adjustment screw or (or screws). Is there one for both idle and WOT or is there just one? Is there anything “unusual” I need to know compared to a normal “run of the mill” carb adjustment?
The dealer that I purchased my mower from sells mainly farm tractors and all kinds of eqp, so I’m thinking it will be easier for me to get the answer here than there.
Act I disagree with the above post, Bad Boy does use a standard engine, I used to sell them. In fact I have one that should be in today for spring tuneup. I doubt though you need to adjust your carb, have to tried cleaning it? You could cause yourself a big repair bill if you start messing with your carb and get it all screwed up.
I have sold mowers for years and I have never had to adjust a carburetor on a new mower, I have had to clean them, adjust throttle cables, and do all kinds of repairs but that not one of them. Unless the dealer screwed it up it would be unlikely that it is more then a carburetor cleaning.
How Do I Adjust Carburetor Float On My Briggs And Stratton Mower?
Drain gas first Take the cover off the carburetor Pull the pin that holds the float in place Check the needle of the float to see if it is clean Keep the needle in the upright position when you put it back on You can adjust it as you put it back on to make certain it is in the right placeWhen you want to adjust the carburetor on your Briggs and Stratton Mower you will have to first drain the gas. The gas goes through the carburetor so if you do not want it all running on the ground which is dangerous you first have to take off the line that runs to the carburetor and drain it. Once you have all the gas drained from the line you can take a 7/16 socket to the cover on the carburetor. A little gas is still going to run out, so be careful not to have anything flammable nearby. After you have the cover off, you will see the float. It is a little orange item with a pin that holds it in place. Remove that pin and the float will come right off. You want to see that the needle of the float is clean and undamaged. If everything looks okay, you can put the float back on. As you put it back on you can adjust the needle to ensure it goes in the right place and therefore you have adjusted the carburetor float. If necessary once the pin is back in place you can adjust the float a little more to make certain you have not jostled it. The main thing with a float on the mower is to make certain it is clean rather than adjusting it to make your mower work.
STEP 2: Remove the air filter to access the carburetor.
In order to access the carburetor in your lawn mower, you need to remove the air filter housing. The air filter typically sits overtop of the carburetor. Inspect the air filter to determine if it’s attached with clips or screws, then use a screwdriver to loosen the fasteners and place them in a safe location for reinstallation. Next, remove the air filter. It’s a good idea to inspect the air filter and either clean or replace it if necessary. If you have difficulty removing the air filter, you should be able to find detailed information in your lawn mower’s manual to help with this part of the process.
STEP 3: Remove the carburetor.
Wearing durable gloves for skin protection, use a carburetor cleaner for lawn mowers to spray into the throat of the carburetor or clean the part’s exterior. To clean the internal pieces of the carburetor, though, you will need to remove it entirely from the engine. Use a nut driver or socket set to remove the two bolts that hold the carburetor to the engine, then disconnect the throttle and choke linkage cables from the carburetor.
Make sure to place any fasteners or small pieces in a safe location for reinstallation, and note (or photograph) the location of any cables or hoses so you can put them back in the proper place. Prepare a bucket or bowl to catch the fuel before removing the fuel lines from the nipples of the carburetor housing with needle-nose pliers. If no gas comes out of the fuel line, you may have a plugged fuel line or fuel filter, which will have to be addressed before reassembling the lawn mower.
Once the carburetor is disconnected, pull it off of the mounting studs, taking care to avoid damage to the main gasket between the carburetor and the engine. Also, make a note of the position of the carburetor so that you don’t reinstall it upside down. Place the carburetor in a bucket to allow any fuel to drain.
STEP 4: Disassemble the carburetor.
A key reminder before disassembling your carburetor is that every piece you remove needs to be put back in the same position. Prepare an appropriate place to disassemble the carburetor if you haven’t already, and consider taking pictures while you work to prevent confusion during reassembly.
With the carburetor in the middle of your clean work area and while wearing gloves, start the disassembly process by cleaning around the bowl with a carburetor cleaner. Next, unbolt the fuel bowl and ensure the hole in the nut is clear of any obstructions by poking a paper clip or piece of thin wire through it. Then, remove the float, which should be attached to the carburetor with a hinge pin, and also remove and replace the needle, if necessary. Keep all of the parts grouped together.
STEP 5: Replace any worn-out parts.
Even the best carburetor cleaner cannot repair worn-out parts. Should you spot significant wear and tear on any parts, including the float, pin, needle, or gaskets, then you should get a carburetor repair kit for your specific carburetor to make necessary repairs. Some carburetor parts, like gaskets, wear out more quickly than other parts. When planning your annual carburetor cleaning, it’s recommended to have spare parts ready on hand to avoid taking the carburetor apart more than once. Simultaneously replacing the mower air filter also helps to streamline the maintenance process.
STEP 6: Clean the carburetor and carburetor parts.
With the carburetor disassembled and your gloves on, you will be able to spray carburetor cleaner inside the carburetor housing and clean the various parts. Carb cleaners come in aerosol cans that are great for quick, efficient cleaning, but you can also purchase carburetor cleaner in a bottle or jug.
If you prefer to use a liquid carburetor cleaner over a spray cleaner, then you will need to pour the cleaner into an empty bucket where the parts can soak. Wire the larger parts of the carburetor together, then carefully lower them into a bucket filled with carb cleaner. Use a piece of aluminum screen or a fine-mesh basket to wrap the small pieces of the carburetor before placing them in the bucket, as well. Leave the parts to soak for about an hour before removing them from the cleaning solution.
STEP 7: Reassemble the carburetor.
Rinse the carburetor parts with water to remove excess carburetor cleaner. Then, blow dry the parts with compressed air or let them air dry. It’s essential that the parts are completely dry before reassembly.
When you’re confident that the carburetor parts are dry, you can begin putting the carburetor back together. Use any pictures you took during disassembly to ensure that you are correctly reassembling the parts.
Once the carburetor is reassembled, mount it on the lawn mower, reattach the throttle and choke linkage cables, and reinstall the fuel lines. Fasten the bolts on the carburetor and reattach the air filter to the mower.
STEP 8: Test the lawn mower.
After you have reassembled and reinstalled the carburetor and air filter, add fuel to the gas tank and start the lawn mower to ensure that the maintenance was a success. Ideally, cleaning the carburetor should allow the engine to start up easily, but if you continue to experience problems with starting your mower, take the lawn mower to a small engine repair shop for further diagnosis.
How To Clean a Lawn Mower Carburetor
Similar to an automobile engine, a small engine on a self-propelled lawn mower, push mower, or riding mower uses a carburetor to help run the engine, which is why you should keep the carburetor clean. The lawn mower carburetor ensures that the proper mixture of fuel and air will enter the engine cylinder to allow for combustion. When ignited by the spark plug, the fuel and air mixture will combust, forcing the engine piston downward which rotates the crankshaft causing the lawn mower blade to spin and, if applicable, the lawn mower wheels or riding mower wheels to rotate.
Dirty Mower Carburetor Symptoms
A dirty or restricted carburetor on a lawn mower is fairly easy to diagnose:
Is cleaning the mower carburetor enough?
In addition to cleaning a lawn mower carburetor, you should consider purchasing a carburetor repair kit or small engine parts to replace some of the major carburetor components like the float and float needle, gaskets, and diaphragms. If the carburetor still performs poorly, you may need to replace the old carburetor with a new one. Be aware that a dirty air filter or a clogged fuel filter can also cause a lawn mower engine to start and die, stall, or run rough. As part of your annual lawn mower maintenance, you should always replace the air filter and fuel filter with new ones.
Now that you know how to clean a carburetor on a lawn mower, check out our selection of lawn mower parts. Whether you need Craftsman lawn mower parts for a riding mower, Honda lawn mower parts, Murray mower parts, or Snapper mower parts, Repair Clinic.com stocks the specific parts that fit your lawn mowing equipment, including Briggs and Stratton carburetors. To find the right parts, enter the full model number of your lawn mower, or the mower’s engine, in the Repair Clinic.com search bar. The navigation filters on the left side of the part results page will allow you to refine your search down to just the part or parts you’ll need.
Lawn mower carburetor adjustment
If your engine is relatively new (made within the last 10 years or so) and has only one speed, then there may be no adjustments (like the one discussed in the section: Cleaning Craftsman (Tecumseh) carburetors. It will either work or it won’t. in which case it needs cleaning or parts replaced. Or your overhaul was less than 100% effective. You can tell if your carburetor is of this type as there will be no adjusting screws on the carburetor. For Craftsman types, there will be a solid hex nut on the bottom holding the float bowl in place. There may or may not be a primer button.
For adjustable types, it is best to refer to your engine manual. However, here is the general procedure. Some of the specific numbers may differ for your engine, however.
In all cases, before touching any adjustments, make sure your air filter is in place, and clean (or new). Fill the fuel tank about half full with fresh gasoline.
There are three adjustments on a typical carburetor:
- Main mixture. Bottom of Craftsman (Tecumseh) float carburetors.
- Idle mixture. Side into body of Craftsman (Tecumseh) float carburetors.
- Idle speed. Sets relaxed position of throttle plate.
Initially, carefully and gently turn the two mixture controls in until they just seat.
Note: “In” means clockwise (the way you would tighten a normal screw) and “out” means counterclockwise (the way you would loosen a normal screw).
CAUTION: do not force them. you are not trying to tighten anything. as you will damage the needles and seats which will require replacement of the needles or entire carburetor. Then back them out 1 to 1-1/2 turns. Set the idle speed screw 1 to 2 turns beyond where it contacts the throttle plate. Refer to your engine manual for specific recommendations! These settings should allow the engine to start and run, though perhaps not entirely smoothly or with great enthusiasm.
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Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. a couple of minutes. Make sure any choke is off once it is started and running stably. This will also flush any old deteriorated gasoline from the carburetor!
DO-IT-YOURSELF LAWN MOWER CARBURETOR MAINTENANCE
Your lawn mower carburetor works best when it is clean, so this should be part of your regular maintenance routine. It is also the first thing to try if you notice problems with your lawn mower’s power or fuel efficiency. Carburetor clogs and corrosion are the most common culprits when your lawn mower won’t run.
Begin by checking the air filter. This part is responsible for ensuring no outside debris gets into the carburetor. Next, move on to the fuel line. Remove it at the point where it enters the carburetor. You should see a small amount of fuel trickling out of the end of the line, as well as the entry point. If not, the fuel filter or the fuel line could be clogged.
You can attempt to clean these parts before reattaching them. If it is a minor issue, this is the easiest way to solve the problem. However, in most cases, replacing the clogged filters and lines is the most effective solution.
If it isn’t a problem with your air filter, fuel filter, or fuel line, it’s time to look at the carburetor more closely. It is attached to the engine with bolts that you can typically remove with a socket wrench. Once the carburetor is detached, examine it carefully for corrosion. If you spot any corrosion, it’s time for a new carburetor. The part is relatively inexpensive – usually between 10 – 25. You can expect to pay between 40 – 75 for installation at your local small engine shop.
If no corrosion is present, the carburetor may just need a good cleaning. Cleanse each part with a product specifically designed for carburetor maintenance, then use compressed air to ensure all parts are completely dry. Use a lawn mower carburetor diagram if you need help reassembling the carburetor. Then, reattach it to the engine, taking care that bolts are secure.
Finally, you may need to adjust your carburetor to maximize power and/or minimize fuel consumption or correct idle speed. On most models, this is a simple task. On many models, there is an air mixture screw, usually where the air cleaner filter hose connects. Once the engine is warmed up, use a screwdriver to return the mixture to manufacturer-recommended settings.
Depending on the model, there may also be an idle speed screw on the carburetor. With the engine running, use a screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise, then counter-clockwise. Find the midpoint where the idle speed is just right.