Sampling of grooves
In every home, most of the furniture is made of wood boxes. And if you can make a box, then you can make a bookcase, sund
SLOT / SPIKE CONNECTION
Like the main groove, the groove / tenon connection (fig. 5) can be made in several ways: circular and milling. Regardless of the method, the proportions of the connection are as follows: a spike about 1/4-1 / 3 of the thickness of the part on which it is cut, and approximately 1/4-1 / 3 of the thickness of the part with a groove. To ensure a tight and good connection, it is necessary to cut the grooves slightly deeper than the length of the studs.
GROOVE SELECTION DEVICE
The device consists of two rulers (one for each shoulder of the groove) and two strips that rest on the edges of the workpiece. One ruler and one T-bar are fastened at right angles. Clearances along the other plank and ruler allow you to install boards up to 300 mm wide and select slots up to 38 mm wide. Two clamps in the adjustable bar rest against the work piece and lock the fixture in place.
To work, you need a set of guide bushings for the router. With bushings, the rulers should be slightly offset to the side relative to the width of the groove itself.
The fixture is made of poplar, but Karelian birch or MDF plywood will do. T-nuts and MB screws are recessed, so the router can slide along the rulers unhindered.
Having finished manufacturing, you need to make inserts for installing the rulers. Sew a piece of trimming board about 450 mm long, 150 mm wide and 20 mm thick to the same thickness along the entire length. It all depends on the size of the sleeve and the cutter. Leave the fixture in place while making and adjusting four inserts, each about 50 mm long, about 25 mm wide and the same thickness as the gaps. Ideally, the thickness of the inserts should be equal to half the difference between the diameters of the cutter and the sleeve.
The exact fit of the inserts is done by using them with the installed rulers when milling on a short cut that was sawn off earlier. Loosen the adjustable ruler, place the trim between the rulers and two inserts on each side.
Tighten the screws. Remove the inserts and trim and mill the groove. If the trim does not fit into the groove, adjust the thickness of the inserts.
BASIC SLOT CONNECTION
Sawing grooves on a table circular with a set of groove discs is much faster than manually. But with long or wide pieces, it is difficult to maneuver around the table. The pendulum saw solves this problem, but it has a drawback – usually its console is not enough for cutting across wide parts.
The milling cutter helps to cope with this trouble. But there are also disadvantages here.
First, if you choose more than one pair of grooves, it can take a long time to set up a ruler for each side. Therefore, use an insert with a width equal to the distance from the edge of the router base to the router. To position the ruler, slide the insert along the intended shoulder mowing line on the work piece (fig. 4).
Fig. 4. Router insert.
Secondly, the thickness of the work piece is almost never matched to the cutter to ensure that a tight fit is obtained. Solid wood pieces can be planed or trimmed, but plywood pieces are difficult to trim. Sawing a groove for a fit is clearer. But this requires two routing passes – one for each shoulder.
Faced with a selection of grooves, you can make a simple device (photo A).
Alternative ways
As stated, the stationary circular saw is very handy for quarter selection. (There is a separate article on the types of circular saws and the features of their choice on our website.) But it is not always in the master’s arsenal, and sometimes it is impossible to use it purely physically.
If you need to select a quarter in thick, long boards, you can use a hand-held circular saw. The manufacturing principle and sequence of operations are the same. The difference is that in this case the board to be processed and the tool are swapped. The board is fixed motionlessly, and the master moves the circular saw with a parallel stop by hand.
If you do not have a circular or hand-held circular saw at hand, you can use an angle grinder with a disc for wood or a hand router with a suitable cylindrical cutter. Both methods are very slow and not suitable for a large amount of work. In addition, choosing a quarter angle grinder is inconvenient, dangerous and uneven.
Another way is to use an electric plane. However, most modern models of planers, due to the design features, are not suitable for this. Look, which shows just this way of choosing a quarter.
Quarter making methods
You can select a quarter using several methods using different tools. For example:
- Electric plane,
- Milling cutter,
- Hand circular saw,
- Stationary circular saw.
The last method – choosing a quarter with a circular saw – is the most convenient and productive. We will consider it.
Cutting a quarter with a circular saw
Choosing a quarter in wood is one of the most frequent operations in joinery and carpentry. Why this is done and how it is discussed below.
Wood, like any material, has specific properties that must be taken into account. This obvious fact, however, is often ignored by beginners. The result is a spoiled mood, time spent reworking, and often spoiled material.
One of the characteristic properties of wood is that when the humidity changes, the linear dimensions of the wooden part change. When dry, the wood shrinks, and expands with increasing moisture. In addition, resin evaporates from the wood over time. Because of this, the wooden part gradually decreases in linear dimensions, regardless of changes in humidity. They say about this phenomenon: the tree dries up. These effects are especially noticeable in softwood, from which the most common sawn timber is made.
Angle grinder motor power
The more engine power, the more force the tool develops, the more dense materials it is able to cut. With increasing power, the weight of the device increases. The industry produces tools with motors from 0.5 to 3 kW. For home and summer cottages, it is recommended to choose an angle grinder with an engine power of 0.8 to 1.2 kW. The more powerful mechanism is more difficult to hold in your hands, it consumes more electricity during operation.
A professional tool is designed for long-term operation, it has a higher service life. If large-scale construction is planned in the country, cutting steel bars, assembling formwork – you can use a tool with a motor up to 1.5 kW.
Scratch disk size
Disc diameter is the main indicator of the ability of an angle grinder to perform certain operations. The larger the cutting wheel size, the more powerful and faster the angle grinder should be. The diameter of the hole in the circle (landing size) is standard: 22.2 mm.
There are five standard types of discs available for the angle grinder, differing in size:
- Disc with a diameter of 115 mm. Designed for cutting materials of small thickness, for processing (grinding, polishing) small surfaces. The maximum cutting depth is approx. 30 mm.
- Disc with a diameter of 125 mm. One of the most popular sizes for household use. The cutting depth is about 40 mm. A wide variety of attachments and accessories are produced for this size.
- Disc with a diameter of 150 mm. Most often it is used in installation work as an auxiliary tool. Common size for cutting metal and plastic pipes for plumbing and electrical work.
- Disc with a diameter of 180 mm. Semi-professional size. It assumes work in the "non-stop" mode. The cutting edge is 50 mm. It is widely used in repair and construction works.
- Disc diameter 230 mm. Used in professional angle grinders up to 2.5 kW. It is practically not used for domestic needs – the devices are too bulky.
Additional features
Additional features offered by the manufacturer will make working with an angle grinder convenient and safe:
- Smooth engine start. A very useful function – the disc spins up to working speed gently, without an “explosive” jerk at the start.
- Automatic disk balancing. Reduces vibration of the instrument in the hands. Particularly helpful when using an unevenly worn disc.
- Number of handles. For household grinders, as a rule, there are two threaded holes and one handle that can be rearranged. This is very convenient if you need to change your hand while working in order to get into a narrow place.
- Rotation speed regulation. The electronic circuitry maintains a constant speed of rotation of the motor shaft, regardless of the load on the disc. The work goes faster, the motor and gearbox will last longer.
- The presence of a dust protection system. An important function for concrete work – the gearbox and shaft are protected from the ingress of cement particles, increasing the service life of the tool.
- Possibility of connecting a construction vacuum cleaner. Along with personal protective equipment – respirator, goggles and gloves – it increases the comfort and safety of work. The workplace will remain clean.
- Locking the start button. For extended operating conditions such as grinding or polishing, the operator does not need to keep the button depressed in the operating position.
- Auto power off. If the light is turned off during operation, the machine cuts off the power to the tool so that it does not start itself when the power supply is restored.
We work according to the rules
First, you need to make trial work on any board of a similar shape. Then, the block on which we will choose a quarter with a plane must be carefully secured to a workbench or a strong, stable work surface. An uneven angle results from the workpiece being loose.
You need to turn on the plane and give it the opportunity to gain momentum. It is worth starting the action by holding the tool strictly parallel to the working surface. It is necessary to advance the planer along the length smoothly, without jerking. No need to increase speed or stop, we work evenly.
What tool is chosen a quarter
You can cut out on a stationary circular in two passes, if it (circular) exhibits a disc overhang above the table.
In general – a milling cutter. There is a parallel stop in the kit, but you can make it yourself. Read here " >
Take a hand circular (I removed the protective cover and the rear canine guide). Attach with self-tapping screws to a piece of chipboard, plywood, 25mm wide unedged board. Drown the included circular to the end. DISCONNECT AND UNPLUG FROM THE SOCKET. Turn on and fasten the button with electrical tape. Turn the base over and fix it on trestles or the like. Attach the rip fence. Set the height of the circular. Two passes – groove.
For convenience, use wooden "springs" as a clamp.
A disc without a guard is DANGEROUS.
I tried it – slowly and a lot of shavings. The milling area is not small – the milling cutter heats up. Did not like.
Well, the same table circular, only in a homemade version.
By the way, on bourgeois desktop circulars (real ones, which are large machines), you can put several saw blades with intermediate inserts or a wide cutter on the spindle. Works very efficiently. But on a manual circular, this cannot be done under any guise.
Fraser yes, slower and more dusty. And it may take multiple passes.
It is almost impossible to do such things in large volumes with a milling cutter or a plane. Very slowly, a lot of chips, plus all the time strains the risk of damaging the workpiece.
The easiest way, as suggested, is a stationary circular with an adjustable disc overhang and a parallel stop. The required two passes on it are obtained faster than one pass with a plane. The most budgetary option – ENKOR-10, costs about 3100 rubles.
I made door frames on a Soviet-era UBDN machine, where even the departure is not regulated. I had to put wooden spacers between the bed and the top of the table. But it turns out quickly and the accuracy is good.
But keep in mind that the angle from which the quarter is selected must be strictly right along the entire length of the board. Before cutting, I check all the corners with a square and choose the most straight one. And the board should not be bent or twisted.
Also, for a 6-meter board, additional supports and, preferably, an assistant will be required.
Choosing a quarter in wood is one of the most frequent operations in joinery and carpentry. Why this is done and how it is discussed below.
Wood, like any material, has specific properties that must be taken into account. This obvious fact, however, is often ignored by beginners. The result is a spoiled mood, time spent reworking, and often spoiled material.
One of the characteristic properties of wood is that when the humidity changes, the linear dimensions of the wooden part change. When dry, the wood shrinks, and expands with increasing moisture. In addition, resin evaporates from the wood over time. Because of this, the wooden part gradually decreases in linear dimensions, regardless of changes in humidity. They say about this phenomenon: the tree dries up. These effects are especially noticeable in softwood, from which the most common sawn timber is made.
Quarter making methods
You can select a quarter using several methods using different tools. For example:
- Electric plane,
- Milling cutter,
- Hand circular saw,
- Stationary circular saw.
The last method – choosing a quarter with a circular saw – is the most convenient and productive. We will consider it.