External corner mounting
Siding soffit. Mounting by means of an outer corner Thus, mounting is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.
In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile is on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the required size is cut out and inserted between one of the corner parts and the J-bar.
The finish on the second side is similar.
Installation of vinyl siding. Instruction. Before you start installing siding. Tips
- When starting to clad your home with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be maintained between the starter bars, as well as between the rows and the bars. And if the installation is carried out at temperatures below 10 C (which, in general, is unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but is quite usual for domestic practice). Then the gaps must be at least 10 mm.
- There should be a gap between the working surface, materials and fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.
- Vinyl siding must be allowed to rest for at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperatures before installation begins.
- In no case should the siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to mounting can lead to cracking of the letter material. But, if such a need arises, to fix the letter not where the nail holes are punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the letter or additional element.
3. Installation of ordinary siding panels
Let’s make a reservation right away that you can fix ordinary panels in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.
Installation takes place in several steps:
3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the corner or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.
In this case, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.
As already mentioned, the siding panel is wound into the outer or inner corners. In the event that you are using a budget installation option, you can equip the internal panel in the ways shown in the figure.
How to install a siding panel correctly
Do not forget to leave a gap for expansion.
3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the starting strip and snapped into place. To do this, you need the lane lock to catch on the starting bar. In no way “pull out panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will be extended and the locks will be deformed. How to install a siding panel correctly. See the picture.
Installation of vinyl siding. Installation Installation of vinyl siding. Correct installation
3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.
3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.
If you need to connect the panels to each other, and you DO NOT provide an H-shaped profile or you do not like the way it looks, you can do it as follows.
- First, remove the Lock connection from the panel.
- Second, it will superimpose two letters on top of each other.
- Thirdly, keep the cut off part of the letter under lock.
Connecting siding panels to each other
Connecting siding panels The photo shows how it looks in practice
- Some manufacturers produce panels without locking at the end of the siding letter.
- The panels at the joints are NOT sealed.
- The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.
1. Setting the starting bar (starting strip)
Installation of siding panels always takes place using a starter bar. It is attached along the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).
The starter bar is closed by a row of panels, so there are NO special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or use a strip of a second color.
The starting bar sets the tone for all work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even the smallest bias during installation work.
Marking before installing the initial strip Before you start fixing it, you need to mark the place of future fixing.
To do this, drive a nail (screw in a self-tapping screw) at the lowest level of the wall.
The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.
Next, pull the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension with a builder’s level. Next, Using Chalk Draw a line between the nails along the thread. It will designate the line for attaching the starting strip.
Fixing the initial plank The more often you use the level, the more correct and even the siding will be installed.
However, at least every third row of ordinary siding strips should be checked for the possibility of deviations from the level.
Then fix the plank.
2. Fastening the vertical strips. Corners and H-connectors
Installation of siding on window openings
Window openings are made in three ways. The choice depends on the width of the slope.
A specialized window profile is used if the width is more than 20cm. Plastic and metal-plastic options are used.
- The finishing profile is attached to the wall next to the window;
- The side profile is attached to the finish and the wall from the outside;
- Top and bottom bar;
- The edges of the profiles are folded and cut to match the window, adjusted to fit each other.
The shape of the window profiles is made in such a way that the edge closest to the window fits into the grooves of the finishing strip, and the siding panels enter the outer edge (outside the window). The appearance is not disturbed, the gap for water drainage is preserved.
On narrow windows (less than 20 cm), a J-profile is used. It is placed after the main work; to complete the work, a finishing strip is required outside the window. It makes the seams even. Windows flush with the wall are decorated with platbands, they are installed in the installation of the main panels. The same tools are used for doors.
Soffits
Special panels for eaves and roof protrusions. They give the facade a finished look, protect the structure from moisture ingress. Lighter than conventional siding, the panels are smaller for ease of use on surfaces. Resistance to negative factors is the same as in conventional wall panels.
How siding is fastened
Each panel is equipped with two locks. Top and bottom. There is only one in the start and finish bar. Lock. This is the curved part of the panel that attaches them to each other. The first row is attached to the starting bar, the second. To the first, etc. In the top bar. The bottom lock is the bottom edge, the top one is located below the screw mounts. The place where the panel is attached to the crate is closed by the next row of panels.
- The lower lock is combined with the upper lock of the previous row or starting bar;
- The upper edge is fixed to the crate;
- The entire row is mounted;
- The slab of the next row is fixed with locks.
The panels are fixed one above the other, starting from the starting strip. It serves as a guide for a flat facade. The lining for outdoor use is attached to the lathing with self-tapping screws or special brackets. The screw must NOT fit snugly. There should be a gap of about 1 mm (coin thickness) between its head and the surface. The attachment points are 30 cm apart from each other, this value may vary depending on the characteristics of the material.
Wall panels are fastened with an overlap (as opposed to starting panels, between which there is a gap). Thermal expansion This will not affect the performance of the coating. To prevent thermal expansion from spoiling the plates, each fastener is installed strictly in the middle of the hole intended for it. It is important that it is perpendicular to the wall. A gap must be left for window openings and doors. To do this, the panels have to be cut.
Preparation of the lathing
Sheathing. This is the frame on which the facade rests, made of wood or metal. If plastic lining is used for outdoor work, then both types are suitable if the choice is made in favor of metal. The frame must also be metal. The wall must be prepared before installation. Remove the existing coating, close up the cracks, clean it with an antiseptic so that bacteria and mold do not develop (especially important for brick walls). It is necessary to level the wall, but not in perfect smoothness, as when installing a wet facade.
The order of installation of the battens:
- Corner beams. Vertical on both sides of the wall;
- A fishing line or rope is pulled over the corner beams, serves as a markup;
- Brackets. Mounts for the rest of the structure are installed along the line;
- Insulation (if provided, required for metal siding)
- The main elements of the crate. Horizontal beams with a pitch corresponding to the size of the slabs. Standard step. 40cm.
If using wooden lathing, you need to pay attention to the quality of the wood. The strength and safety of the finished structure depends on it. Antiseptic treatment of walls, battens and panels is required.
Basement
Differs in increased strength, resistance to moisture and chemical influences. Used for cladding the basement of the house, serves as a support for wall siding. expensive than wall, therefore not used on walls. It is impossible to replace basement siding with other types. They are less durable and will NOT cope with the assigned functions.
Specifications
When buying materials, you need to pay attention to the technical characteristics. First group. The ones that affect the performance are second. Affecting the ease of installation. The first group includes:
- Strength. Not less than 422kg / cm2;
- Resistant to sulfuric acid. Here are 14 days;
- Temperature barrier strength. 88˚.
These characteristics indicate that the material has margin of safety, which will allow him to function normally under normal conditions. Strong shocks, heating in direct sunlight and unfavorable environmental conditions Also will not be a problem.
Second group. These are the length, width and thickness of one sheet. They vary depending on the manufacturer and brand to make it easier to find the right product. If there is no suitable (especially in length) siding, it has to be cut. This does not degrade performance.
How to cut siding: an overview of tools
When starting to clad the facade, you should take care of the availability of all the necessary tools. What might be needed in this case? Devices for fastening and cutting of cladding sheets. And if fasteners are sold complete with siding, you need to think about the availability of tools for cutting the finishing material in the photo. These tools include:
- Electric saw, jigsaw,
- Hacksaw or scissors for cutting metal,
- Angle Grinder,
- Construction knife.
How and what to cut siding panels
It is fair to say that not only amateurs, but also professional builders face the problem of choosing the right tool. The fact is that siding can be vinyl, metal and plastic. Each type requires the use of a suitable tool.
Vinyl-based panels are often used for facade cladding. Of course, experts have a question: what is the best way to cut vinyl siding? Indeed, the instructions that come with the material indicate that the panels should be cut with a saw with fine teeth. In the case of an electric saw, it is almost impossible to choose a blade with such teeth. No major, reputable manufacturer makes such a tool. And even if you are lucky enough to find a disc with fine teeth, you still cannot make a beautiful cut. Small notches, for example, for facing window openings will have to be cut with ordinary construction scissors. Thus, an electric saw. Not the best choice for cutting vinyl and metal siding. However, this tool is also not suitable for plastic panels, since the plastic cracks from the action of the saw, and chips appear on the surface.
NOT the best choice for cutting siding panels. Jigsaw. Firstly, this tool can only be used in warm weather, since in cold weather the jigsaw may NOT work at all. Secondly, the tool will only crosscut. End cuts are not made with a jigsaw. Thirdly, for cutting siding, it is necessary to use canvases with small teeth, designed for working with a laminate board.
For those who have doubts about how to properly cut siding, it is recommended to use a hacksaw for metal. This tool will easily cut metal, plastic, vinyl material in any weather. However, the length of the hacksaw blade is not enough for comfortable cross-cutting, therefore, for this case, you need to choose another additional tool.
Cutting metal siding with your own hands, it is convenient to use scissors for working with metal. Experts recommend using this tool only in the warm season, because in the cold season, facade cladding sheets are deformed and cracked. It is convenient to use scissors for cutting along the direction of the sheets, it is recommended to choose another tool for processing the end parts.
A knife is absolutely useless for cutting siding. This tool should not be used for end-cutting or cross-cutting of panels.
An irreplaceable, best option for cutting siding is an angle grinder. To cut plastic, vinyl, basement or metal siding, you need to choose a disc 1.5 millimeters thick and 12.5 cm in diameter.Choosing a suitable rotation speed, you can easily make both end and longitudinal cuts. In this case, it is very important to follow the rules of safe work with the tool, since negligence can lead to injuries and damage to the siding.
How to properly cut siding using an angle grinder is presented on.
Thus, the best tools for cutting all types of siding, including plinth, are an angle grinder and metal scissors. The processing of panels using THESE two types of tools occurs quickly and without loss of quality in the appearance of the facing. It is important to follow the rules for working with tools in order to avoid damage to the cladding panels and the occurrence of accidental injuries.
Angle Grinder
Almost all siding manufacturers claim that an angle grinder can damage the material, therefore, its use is impractical. According to them, in the process of cutting the material will start to seriously crack. However, is it really so?
When cutting the angle grinder, it is very important to hold the panel
Contrary to popular stereotypes, some people still decide to use an angle grinder. To the surprise of many, such a tool does NOT carry destructive power, but on the contrary allows you to achieve amazing evenness.
The main thing is to understand a few fundamental points.
- It is worth working at low or medium speeds, since at high speeds there is a high risk of deformation of the panels.
- It is best to use models with a medium power, that is, 1000-1400 watts. However, you can use less powerful analogs.
- It is important to pay attention to protecting the device from dust. In particular, it is necessary to equip the instrument with a special membrane. Metal dust can harm the angle grinder if it gets into the engine.
- Use only a thin disc (100-125 mm in diameter and 1.5-2 mm in thickness). impressive models can seriously damage the surface. In addition, they do not provide high accuracy.
- Pay special attention to notching the bead in the upper part, since in the process of execution it is necessary to stop the operation of the tool in time. If this is not done, the entire panel can be cut through. For insurance, you can ask Partner after the movement of the car.
Jigsaw
Familiar to many from school lessons, the jigsaw can also be used to cut siding.
However, it is worth clarifying a few fundamental points:
Even an inexperienced master can handle the introduction of a jigsaw
Before cutting metal siding, it is necessary to prepare resistances. Siding panels are NOT a durable material, so they will seriously sag when pressed. It is recommended to build resistances from wooden blocks.
- Using a jigsaw is extremely difficult to cut a small piece of material. This is due to the fact that during the cutting process, it begins to vibrate seriously, compromising the accuracy of the operation.
- Surprisingly, only a few manufacturers in their instructions make public the fact that you can only cut siding with a jigsaw with a T101 size blade. The key purpose of this canvas. Laminate cutting. Do NOT try to cut the panels with a different size blade, as they will inevitably break.
When working with a jigsaw, keep a distance of 30-40 cm from it to avoid getting metal shavings on your face and clothes
With a jigsaw with the recommended blade size, it is quite easy to make both transverse and longitudinal cuts. But with the cutouts on the end, this tool will NOT be able to master absolutely. One more nuance. When using a jigsaw, the cut is largely ragged, so this tool can only be used in good warm weather.
How to cut vinyl siding to minimize margin of error
In the process of installing the siding, in any case, you will need to cut it. In this regard, many people ask themselves the question, in order to carry out the installation of siding, you need to have in your arsenal tools for cutting it.
Today there are many ways to carry out this operation, and each has its own characteristics, which you can familiarize yourself with, read this article.
In order to carry out the installation of siding, you must have in your arsenal tools for cutting it
Construction knife
Perhaps the most commonplace tool for this operation. This is a knife. Almost anyone can handle it. However, does it provide a guarantee of cutting accuracy?
The knife must have floating, as in this photo. It has a shock-absorbing effect
As practice shows, it is quite possible to make an accurate cut with a knife and for this you do not need to have special skills. The main thing is that it is well sharpened.
The cutting should be carried out as follows:
- Mark the mowing line of the proposed cut with a pencil.
- An even furrow is drawn along the marking with a knife.
- The panel bends several times until it breaks into two parts.
This method can easily cut straight sections. When it comes to corner pieces (e.g. window frames), slightly more effort is required.
In particular, you will first need to make two transverse cuts, then attach a ruler to them and make a long cut, then bend the cut off element and it will easily break off.
Thus, it can be stated that the knife is quite a competitive tool for cutting siding. The main thing is to make every effort and know some tricks.
Metal scissors
It is very important to know that cutting the siding with scissors is possible only in warm weather, since at low temperatures the material will seriously crack. However, some models of scissors can have this effect in any weather, so it is very important to take a responsible approach to their choice.
It is also worth understanding the following points:
- When cutting with scissors, the ends must not be completely joined together, as this will damage the material.
- It is recommended to start cutting from the upper edges, on which the fastener is located. However, such a measure leads to the fact that the person will make more efforts. In addition, having reached the top edge, the movement of the edges of the scissors will be extremely difficult to stop.
In practice, it turns out that to stop the movement of the edges of the scissors, you need to either practice for a very long time, or have NOT hefty physical strength. However, there is an easier way out of this situation. Start cutting siding from the bottom, contrary to recommendations.
Today there are semi-automatic models of scissors, which greatly simplify the cutting process.
An inexperienced craftsman may inevitably face the fact that as a result of certain efforts during cutting, the siding will begin to wrinkle, and if work is carried out at low temperatures, it will crack. If you have not dealt with metal scissors, check out the tutorial at the end of this article, which will help you understand the basics. However, it is better to practice before starting cutting, for this you can use a small piece of the panel.
Electric saw
Many siding manufacturers recommend their consumers to cut siding with a fine-toothed saw.
Such a recommendation carries a number of negative aspects:
- Firstly, this type of dust is present in a fairly small number of manufacturers. The world famous Bosch, for example, does not have it at all, despite the fact that it is one of the leaders in this field. As a result, consumers have a search problem.
Working with such a massive tool requires certain skills, remember this
- Secondly, even if a person has found such dust, it will be rather difficult to cut with it. Simply put, such a tool is only suitable for an experienced technician.
- Thirdly, with its help, it is almost impossible to make end cuts. As a result, a person will have to purchase an additional tool for this operation. The question arises, why then use dust at all?
- Finally, the last point worth noting is the fact that only a professional can notice inaccuracies in the cutting process. This is due to the fact that the person performing the cutting practically does not see how it is being cut, since the support platform obstructs the view. This jeopardizes the success of the entire operation.
It looks extremely strange that the instructions of most siding manufacturers recommend cutting with a saw.
The naked eye shows that this tool is hardly suitable for this operation. Some companies will stir various images on which it is carried out without any problems.Even an inexperienced master with a saw can cope with the introduction of a jigsaw, but this is only in the picture.