A long drill for a perforator with your own hands. Power and revolutions when working with metal

DIY

There was a problem. It is necessary to drill the beam walls in the dacha with a feather drill 22mm (under an electrician). Wall thickness along with the sheathing of 17-19cm. The usual feather drill allows you to drill to a depth of about 13 cm. An extension cord is needed. On sale could not be found anywhere. Many sellers do not know that such. Question: Is it possible to use an extension cable extension cord as an extension cord? Do they have the same landing dimensions.

There are different pen.in.laws. Others. perfectly get into adapters. Only such an adapter as in the picture will be inconvenient. it will not hold the drill when taking out, the drill will remain in the wall. I need fixation. There are other feathering cords, they will generally hang out too free in the 1/4 ″ adapter.

In Leroa-Merlen, adapters-extensor for feather-shaped cornfields “Enkor” are sold. 59, length. about 20 cm.

but just spiral cannot?? Without any adapters. Length up to 450. there are, there are short types.20cm. The tree passes perfectly.

2DMITRIY65 in the markets you need to watch.There are extensors of 30cm.True from a series of one.time and mainly in sets.Personally, I welded a piece of hairpin.but there F35 had to bite 40cm.

Ugun also did not want to go to the magazes for 20 km. And then welding at hand (heating collected) a dignar is standing, grabbed and Dahl Derzai.

Not convenient. Too many different sizes will have to be purchased. And I don’t know if his electric screwdriver will pull. I drilled with Makita with a diameter of 35 in 150 timber. Goes without problems, but there is only a length not enough.

Similarly, I bought a spiral of the required size the smallest 200 mm and cooked 10 mm to the reinforcement received a spiral drill 1 meter long. Even if you want to NEITI.You will not.

drilled the screed for the formwork. There is 800 mm minimum size

Probably sometimes you have to get out.

I also drilled, but I cost a short (ordinary) drill on metal.

So in the case that? The tails of the penanal and bats are different or the same?

Ruslan1111 wrote: In the markets you need to watch.There are extensors of 30cm.True from a series of one.time and mainly in sets.

I used such an Encor: the drill and the extension cord are not imposed. a frantic beating! Summary: Kal.

Extension cord Enkorswordo Enkor (as the most budget option). Or another drill that (tail) will fit into the Encorian extension cord.

Throw it, for episodic-stringed work, without problems. There are options with welding reinforcement to the tail, and then no one complains about the beating.And all this is somehow done in the machine, in centers.

How to lengthen the metal drill with your own hands

To independently lengthen the drill on metal, use one of three ways.

Simple welding

For this method of lengthening the drill you will need:

steel cylindrical rod of the same diameter of the required length;

At the end of the drill and one of the ends of the rod, make the chamfers.

Place the tool and rod in a metal corner and combine them with each other.

Gradually turning the blanks, weld the drill to the metal rod.

Process the seam before removing all bumps.

Enlargement of the shank. Method 1

For this technology for lengthening the drill you will need a rod, the diameter of which is less than the diameter of the shank by 2-3 mm. The general principle is this.

A hole for the inner thread is made in the shank of the drill.

An outer thread is cut on a metal rod.

For greater reliability, the joint can be brewed and cleaned.

Enlargement of the shank. Method 2

For this method of lengthening the drill, a rod is required, the diameter of which is larger than the diameter of the shank. For work you will need a lathe. The technology looks like this.

On the lathe, the diameter of the shank is slightly reduced.

A hole is drilled in the rod under the instrument insert.

The shank is fixed in the rod and the junction is brewed.

The diameters of the old drill and the elongated shank are equalized on the lathe.

In this article we will talk about the features of the use of machines and the above devices.

Welcome you, dear readers! In this article, we will talk in detail about the threaded rollers.

In this article, we will talk in detail about the technologies of processing blanks and products from hardened metals

We will pay special attention to the following basic issues

In this article we will talk about what standard diameters and sizes have the most common spiral and coronal metal drill.

The rotation speed of the cutter on the metal and other cutting parameters are set individually for each operation.

Locksmiths and masters of a different profile often encounter the need to cut a circle in metal. This can be done in various ways. We will talk about them in this article.

In this article we will talk about all the features of turning metal.

In this article we will tell you all about metal bosses.

In this article we will talk about the types of boring incisors, their purpose and design features.

A current cutter is the main tool that is used for processing blanks on lathes. It is he who contacts the detail and gives it the necessary form. In this article, we will talk in the most detail about the design features and classification of the incisors. Having studied the information, you can in practice without problems choosing a tool for a particular operation.

Features of drilling deep holes

Drilling is called deep if the depth of the opening exceeds its five diameters. This technological operation is highly complex and laborious, and the main condition for its quality execution is the effective cooling of the tool used, which is usually carried out under pressure.

In order to perform deep drilling qualitatively and accurately, it is very important to ensure the correct direction of the tool at the very beginning of processing. To do this, use a special conductor sleeve or carry out such a procedure according to a pre.made hole of a smaller diameter.

Due to technical difficulties, deep drilling should be performed on special equipment

A drill used for deep drilling cannot be rotated at full speed outside the most processed part: this can lead to a displacement of the cutting part from the required trajectory. In addition, when drilling deep holes with the help of a long drill, adverse conditions are created for the removal of shavings from the processing zone, which can also lead to the departure of the tool from the given direction.

Types of deep drilling

As drills for deep drilling, they can be used:

• spiral with a cylindrical shank, the parameters of which are regulated by GOST 886-77 (in its design, spiral drill with a cylindrical shank relate to the tools of a long series, with the help of which they create holes with a depth exceeding a size equal to 15 diameters);
• rifles, the cutting part of which is completely made of solid alloy;
• rifles, on the cutting parts of which the carbide plates are fixed using soldering;
• rifles equipped not only with the main, but also with intermediate carbide plates;
• ejector, which are used to perform deep drilling on machines with a horizontal location of the cutting tool;
• cannon, on the surface of which there is a V-shaped groove designed to remove chips (processing using drills of this type is an outdated method of obtaining deep holes).

You can familiarize yourself with the requirements of GOST to the drills of a long series by downloading a document in PDF format below.

Spiral drills with a cylindrical shank produced in accordance with the requirements that GOST 886-77 leads, differ in an elongated working part. In accordance with the provisions of the above standard from the 77th year, such an elongated tool can be fully made of high-speed steel or equipped with cutting plates made of solid alloy.

GOST 886 of the 77th year also stipulates that cooling of this type of drilling can be provided due to not only the external, but also the internal supply of coolant. Spiral drills, as indicated by GOST 886-77, can be carried out not only with a cylindrical shank, but also with conical tailings. The process of deep drilling, carried out through such drills, can be performed as with their periodic extraction from the opening, which is necessary to remove the formed chips from it, and without performing such a procedure. If we compare spiral drills with gun and cannon, then when using the first, the drilling performance increases by almost 8 times.

Examples of the working heads of rifle drills

Fluff and gun drilling are related to single.cutting type tools, with which you can create deep holes with diameters located in the interval of 0.5–100 mm. The cooling of drills of this type is carried out through the hole made in their inside, and the chips formed during the processing process are diverted using a special groove made on their outer surface. Cannon and gun drills equipped with cutting carbide plates are characterized by conical configuration of the working part, which ensures the best direction of the tool in the processing zone.

Ejector drills belong to more modern means of deep drilling. Due to the absence of chips on their outer surface, they are highly stiff.

How to make a hole without a drill: 5 ways to drill materials

We tell you what to do if you need to make a hole, but there is no drill or electric screwdriver. You will learn 5 ways how to drill wood, metal, brick, plastic and glass without a drilling tool.

A simple way to make an opening in plastic. To do this, you can use the usual gas burner and awl.

Heat the burner of the steam.shaped awl and carefully pierce the plastic. Get a flat hole in plastic, which is quickly made without a drill.

Instead of an awl, you can use a nail clamped in pliers. And the burner can replace the gas stove on.

Of course, if you need to drill a lot of openings, then it is better to use the drill. But 2-3 punctures can be easily done in this way.

A hole in the metal without a drill

To drill non.weed metal or plastic, you will need a screwdriver and a self.tapping screw with a cutting head. It is of different lengths, it is better to take a short.

• Mark the point on the surface where you will drill.
• Insert the screw into the screwdriver and gently screw it through
• At the same time, crush it so that the tip crashes into the workpiece and pierces it.

The operation will take only a few minutes, and the passage is ready. With this self.tapping screw, several openings can be cut, then it must be replaced.

These tools are also suitable for drilling holes in a tree. First you need to screw a small screw, and then more with a more diameter.

Competent selection of drill

The main criterion will be the selection of a drill on the cartridge. Depending on the cartridge, the drill is selected, because the other type simply does not work.

After that, you should choose the necessary size. When choosing a drill, take the size that is slightly smaller than the required hole. This is due to the fact that during the operation of the penetrator, an error is created, which irritates concrete (and other elements) in the circumference during the drill. The assortment in the market is very large, therefore it will not be difficult to choose the smaller.

The third one needs to pay attention to is the length. Here the matter is in the depths of the required hole, and the assortment allows you to find the necessary.

Drill tool

The tool costs a lot, but if you need to make several holes for your home, the best option will be the penetrator and buying a drill. Many amateurs confuse the drill and the peorator. The drill has only a rotational function, and the peorator is also the chipper function.

It is the peorator that needs the winner of the winter to the work of the winning sneakers, otherwise only the rotation will be on the surface of the work performed, which will lead to nipples and rapid wear.

Of course, you can cope with a regular drill, but there will be a lot of trouble. When using a drill, a deep capacity is required, where you will need to cool the drill, as well as a piece of reinforcement of the desired diameter.

Drill to a certain depth, pull out, clog the reinforcement and pull it out. And so until complete drilling. But ordinary drills are little adapted for such work, therefore, the process of such violence over the tool lasts quite a lot quickly.

Winner drills on concrete have their shortcomings. It is better to leave the metal drilling a special category of drills, but when the winner is stumbled upon metal elements or reinforcement, they can become unusable.

We drill a hole in the potato steel

The spread of the issue of how to drill hot steel can be associated with the fact that when using conventional technology, the tool is quickly blurred and comes into unsuitability. That is why you need to pay attention to the features of the drilling of a hot alloy. Among the features of the technology, we note the following points:

• You need to properly prepare a hot blank.
• In some cases, a special tool is required.
• Cooling liquid is used.

If necessary, you can make a drill for hardened steel with your own hands, for which certain equipment and skills are required. However, in most cases, purchased options are applied, since it will better cope with the task when cutting potato steel.

Nuances when drilling

The technology in question has a fairly large number of features that need to be taken into account. The drilling of a hot metal is carried out taking into account the points below:

• Before the work, attention should be paid to the hardness of the surface. According to this parameter, the most suitable drill is made. Firmness can be determined when using a variety of technologies.
• During the drilling, a large amount of heat is released. That is why the rapid wear of the cutting edge occurs. In this regard, in many cases, a fluid for cooling is supplied to the cutting zone.
• When cutting the hardworked material, from time to time, it is necessary to sharpen the cutting edge. For this, a regular sharpening machine or a special tool is used. As an abrasive, an exclusively circle with diamond spray is suitable.

There are a variety of methods of cutting potato steel. Some of them greatly simplify the ongoing processing. Only when taking into account all the nuances can I improve the quality of the resulting hole.

Junction.

There was a problem. It is necessary to drill the beam walls in the dacha with a feather drill 22mm (under an electrician). Wall thickness along with the sheathing of 17-19cm. The usual feather drill allows you to drill to a depth of about 13 cm. An extension cord is needed. On sale could not be found anywhere. Many sellers do not know that such. Question: Is it possible to use an extension cable extension cord as an extension cord? Do they have the same landing dimensions.

Dmitriy65 wrote: do they have the same landing dimensions

There are different pen.in.laws. Others. perfectly get into adapters. Only such an adapter as in the picture will be inconvenient. it will not hold the drill when taking out, the drill will remain in the wall. I need fixation. There are other feathering cords, they will generally hang out too free in the 1/4 ″ adapter.

Dmitriy65 wrote: it was not possible to find anywhere on sale

In Leroa-Merlen, adapters-extensor for feather-shaped cornfields “Enkor” are sold. 59, length. about 20 cm.

Dmitriy65 wrote: wall thickness along with a sheathing 17-19cm

but just spiral cannot?? Without any adapters. Length up to 450. there are, there are short types.20cm. The tree passes perfectly.

2DMITRIY65 in the markets you need to watch.There are extensors of 30cm.True from a series of one.time and mainly in sets.Personally, I welded a piece of hairpin.but there F35 had to bite 40cm.

Ruslan1111 wrote:.Personally, I welded a piece of hairpin

Ugun also did not want to go to the magazes for 20 km. And then welding at hand (heating collected) a dignar is standing, grabbed and Dahl Derzai.

Helmutivan wrote:. but just spiral cannot?? Without any adapters. Length up to 450. there are, there are short types.20cm. The tree passes perfectly.

Not convenient. Too many different sizes will have to be purchased. And I don’t know if his electric screwdriver will pull. I drilled with Makita with a diameter of 35 in 150 timber. Goes without problems, but there is only a length not enough.

Similarly, I bought a spiral of the required size the smallest 200 mm and cooked 10 mm to the reinforcement received a spiral drill 1 meter long. Even if you want to NEITI.You will not.

drilled the screed for the formwork. There is 800 mm minimum size

alex_k wrote: Even if you want it.You will not.

Probably sometimes you have to get out.

alex_k wrote: drilled screeds under the formwork. There is 800 mm minimum size

I also drilled, but I cost a short (ordinary) drill on metal.

So in the case that? The tails of the penanal and bats are different or the same?

N-P-N wrote: In Leroa-Merlen, adapter-extensor for the pen-the-fiber “Enkor” is sold. 59, length. about 20 cm.

Ruslan1111 wrote: In the markets you need to watch.There are extensors of 30cm.True from a series of one.time and mainly in sets.

I used such an Encor: the drill and the extension cord are not imposed. a frantic beating! Summary: Kal.

Dmitriy65 wrote: Sights at the feather drill and bits are different or the same?

N-P-N wrote: Others-perfectly get into adapters.

Extension cord Enkorswordo Enkor (as the most budget option). Or another drill that (tail) will fit into the Encorian extension cord.

Throw it, for episodic-stringed work, without problems. There are options with welding reinforcement to the tail, and then no one complains about the beating. And all this is somehow done in the machine, in centers.

A small device that solved a big problem

Accurate drilling. Even without markings. Even inappropriate drill. And even a drill with a cartridge beating. And all this is fast. I drilled about 200 holes, and not one of them was a hole. How is this possible? I’ll tell you now.

Once I bought a closet in Ikea. As the Swedes love, it was sold in a cardboard box, in the form of a stack of boards and a bag with fittings. Having quickly collected it, I decided that these boards are not much different from the furniture shield from Leroy Merlin, only cut in the right size and holes are drilled for fasteners. and the price is several times higher. At the same time, you can cut the sheet material in the same Leroy almost for thanks.

Then we made repairs and for a long time could not decide where to attach a washing machine. She lacked a place in the bathroom, she wanted to free the kitchen for more important things, she did not look in the hallway Now, if I hide it in the cabinet, it would solve the problem. But where to get a cabinet with an internal size of 60 cm? The finished one is not sold anywhere, and I decided to make it myself. That first experience was not quite successful. The cabinet gathered at eccentric screeds and confirmation (these are such screws for wood-bruise). For an eccentric screed, you need to drill two holes in perpendicular planes with intersecting axes. A couple of times I missed the drill, the holes had to be drilled so that everything coincides, and, therefore, backlash appeared. One hole was completely through, almost half drilled. I certainly collected the cabinet, but there was an understanding that not everything is so simple. And the cabinet, when pressing the machine, jumps and rattles.

And then a new repair broke out. This time it was necessary to build a mega-skirt. It should be wide (more than 2 m.) deep (76 cm. in depth), made of birch plywood 21mm should be made, and most importantly. the lower part should not have a base. The idea is that the cabinets are rolled into the lower section of the cabinet on wheels. This greatly simplifies the loading of things into such a deep closet. Allows you to quickly roll out, say, a cabinet with tools and roll it to the repair site. Or a cabinet with books to a desk. And don’t run after every trifle in the closet. This is something like this should look like:

(doors and boxes/shelf are not conditionally drawn, but they will be)

Of course, such legs will instantly separate without attaching to a single base, and the cabinet will collapse. To prevent this from happening, the cabinet is mounted on the bearing wall of the house, she carries the entire load. This relieves the question of the back wall. This will allow you to replace the flooring if necessary, without pulling out the cabinet from the room. Just roll out the cabinets, remove the lower part of the partitions, and the rest of the closet continues to hang on the wall.

All my Wishlist, all together and each individually, scared away potential manufacturers of the cabinet. Firms that make furniture are full, but almost everyone drives cabinets made of wood-bearing plate of 16 mm, a depth of 600, all according to more or less standard drawings, and the customer is only allowed to choose the color of the wood-box and the pattern on the sash. So it became clear that I have to do all the work myself. But the old trauma with a pedestal for a washing machine made itself felt, and this time I decided not to leave myself a chance for a mistake. The basic elements of fasteners of the entire structure are a double eccentric screed and a screw with a barrel.shaped nut. And this means that you will have to drill a lot and you need to drill for sure. Therefore, the hero of my review was purchased: a conductor for drilling under an eccentric screed.

There are many conductors for drilling the end of the board. There is a parallelogram type, there are such types of slingshots (I explain my pictures for a long time, I don’t allow other people to apply to the review here, so you will find on the Internet, if necessary), in general, the choice is big. But the conductor who would allow drilling two holes at once precisely under the screed, I found only this. Let’s see what was sent to me:

Hard plastic coffee, inside foam lining and tools in bags.

Two wood drills at 8 and 10 mm, one force drill for 15 mm, restrictive couplings for them, several cans, a key for nuts, a hexagonal key for fixing restrictive couplings, and the device itself itself.

Here he is. The thing is quite weighty, made of cast metal, most likely cast iron. Fixed on the board with a screw clamp. On cheap clamps, the plate is kept due to the breakdown of the screw, over time it falls off or pushed, the screw begins to scratch the board. This will not happen here. A plate made of thick steel, it is smooth and even, fixed with a screw. Time showed that she can even clamp it with a stained board made of soft wood, there are no traces.

The maximum thickness of the clamping board is about 50 mm.

In the slots of the case, two bushings are moved and fixed with nuts. One for drilling 8 mm, from the side of the end of the board.

The minimum indentation of the axis of the drilled hole from the surface of the board is 5 mm.

The scale on the frame is made by engraving, t.e. will not be erased over time.

The end of the bushings is slightly drowned into the cavalry case, literally for a share of a millimeter. This makes it possible to move the sleeve even when the clamp is clamping the board. Of course, for this it is necessary to loosen the fixing nut.

On the other, the conductor’s plane is made exactly the same slot for a sleeve for drilling 15 mm.

Sharpening using the “reverse” mode

You can make a very simple home.made device for sharpening with your own hands from sandpaper. This is a convenient option if there is no grinding circle at hand.

In this case, you should wrap a flat round piece of wood or a pipe (even plumbing plastic) with several layers of sandpaper is suitable.

It is advisable to make quite a lot of layers (about 2 cm) so that the drill sharpens faster and efficiently. You can fix the paper using glue.

For sharpening, the drill should be installed in a drill or screwdriver. It is extremely important to enable the reverse rotation mode. In the standard mode, this way to sharpen equipment cannot be sharpened.

Then just just drill sandpaper several times for the entire length of the drill. In general, you can do without a pipe, just turning a fairly long segment of sandpaper.

In the process of drilling, the edges of the equipment are sharpened with sandpaper. The method allows you to restore even strongly worn out. But, the quality of sharpening will not turn out as good as when using emery.

A special opinion on the sharpening of the edges on the corner grinding

On the YouTube channel, many video bloggers show this method as the most affordable. I will not give examples, you can find it yourself according to search queries.

For this technique, special sharpening devices are even developed.

It is possible that in some critical situation this technology can help out, but I do not advise it as a basis, especially during training for the following reasons:

• Refined circles are created for metal cuts directed perpendicular to the axis of their rotation. They are not intended for lateral loads, can fly up;
• the revolution of the disk of the corner grinder is high;
• Processing the cutting tip is carried out on a flat surface and allows only to straighten the rear cutting angle without refinement of two other prerequisites.

The drill processed in this way will more or less normally work in wood, plastics, and problems will quickly arise with solid metal.

My conclusion: the technology of editing cutting edges on a corner grinding is dangerous and not reliable.

I do the drill myself

Many lovers of amateur technical creativity often need to drill a large diameter hole. Of course, special drills are now sold for this, but sometimes it happens that there is no suitable factory drill at hand at the right time. For example, I have been working with metal for several years, I have been building different home.mades, and when there was a need to drill a hole about 70 mm with a diameter of about 70 mm in a slope of a 6 mm wall, then there was no equipment for this in my workshop. So I decided to make the tool I need on my own from improvised means. I hope my experience will be useful to other home.made people. I offer several options for devices suitable for solving the designated problem.

He took the served two.row car ballpoint bearing. The clips of such are made of high.strength steels ShH15 or Shh20 hardness of 65 units for NR. I reasoned like this: if you make a gear crown from the outer clip, then it should “take” the metal of lower hardness. the same construction channel, for example, from structural steel. Of course, for a long time such a “self.fan” will not last, you won’t make many holes, but I do not need much. And they can easily process wood or drywall.

Shooting all the contents from the outer clipping cloth, marked from one end of the teeth. To do this, I glued a template on a clip, which is a strip cut out of a school.made notebook. Marker, controlling the ruler, marked the teeth evenly throughout the circumference, taking into account the direction of rotation of the future drill.

A sketch of a drill from a hub balloon with an external diameter of 72 mm

The front edge of the tooth is made perpendicular to the line of the clip of the clip or with a slight slope. The slope depends on the hardness of the processed material: the softer the material, the more the tooth profile should be sharper. The back edge is a diagonal fishing line for a trimmer connecting the top of one tooth with the base of the neighboring. Then, taking the “corner grinder”, he cut out the teeth on the marking. Their height is 10 mm.

Now you need to somehow fix the clip with the cutting edge in the cartridge of the drilling machine or drill (as in my case). To do this, I used convex cups of mounting a rod of a car shock absorber. they almost without gap entered a homemade “crown” inside. If they do not enter, then you need to adjust their diameter to the inner diameter of the clip. Turning the m12 cups installed with a convex part to the drill, we clamp the clutch of the bearing between them. From the side of the teeth, the cup is clamped on both sides of the nuts. Above the cutting edge, the hairpin rises by 10. 15 mm, and on this length it grows to a diameter of 10 mm. this is necessary for centering the drill in the processed part. That is, in the center of the future hole of a large diameter, you must first make a “guide” hole with a diameter of 10 mm. At the same time, it is important to specify the drill relative to the axis of rotation. the studs M12 if the diameter of the hole in the cup is larger. A 12 mm puck under a nut, selected in the outer diameter, will help here so that it is in contact with the outer edge with the concave surface of the cup.

The tilt of the front edge of the tooth depends on the hardness of the processed material of the teeth with a uniform step, using the paper template of the cup of the rod of the car shock absorber perfectly fix the clip on the axis of the axis of the wheel bearings allows drilling in different diameters

So, a home.made drill is ready. They should work at low speed, watering the place of cutting with a lubricant coching liquid, as which I usually use soapy water. The power of drilling equipment should be sufficient so that the drill does not stop.

The assortment of this type of fast bearings is quite large, so you can choose the diameter of the drill in accordance with almost any task. It is enough to go through the car repair shops. old unnecessary bearings and shock absorbers there, as a rule, are simply thrown into scrap metal.

However, the high.carbon or stainless steel AISI304 1.5 mm thick I could not “take” such a drill Well, then we will do something else!

At the heart. all the same drill from the bearing. over, you can use even finally blunt, since now it will perform only auxiliary functions. In the cutting part of this tool, a piece of the canvas of a tape saw of 30 mm wide, made of high.carbon steel is used.

It is worth noting that there are saws of saws from a variety of steel grades, therefore, before proceeding directly to the manufacture of the device, I recommend that you carry out a little testing. Pressing with force on the canvas, try to leave a scratch on the material that is planned to be drilled. If the trace is clear and the chips are formed, then everything is in order. such a saw is suitable. If there is no obvious bully and chips, then this canvas is not suitable for this task. you need to look for another, confusing.

A fragment of a sketch of a drill with a cutting edge from a strip saw

It is not difficult to estimate the length of the cutting part of the future drill: it is equal to the inner diameter of the cage of the bearing, multiplied by the number π. Then, at the saw from the side opposite the teeth, we glue the paper template, and with the help of the “corner grinder” we make evenly along the entire length of the slot to a depth of about 7 mm, they should be perpendicular to the edge.

Next, take a piece of pipe with an external diameter slightly less than the internal diameter of the bearing clip and cut it on one side along. In the resulting slot, insert the edge of the saw and wrap it around the pipe. At this stage, it is necessary to use protective glasses and mittens, since the elastic hard saw may burst. By the way, do not forget about personal protective equipment and picking up a “corner grinder” in your hands. remember the safety precautions! In the resulting cylindrical segment, we bend a little (without taking off the glasses!) previously drained the teeth of the comb inward.

The choice of drill

Spiral drills are quite widespread, which are represented by a vertical rod with two grooves. Due to a certain location of the grooves, the cutting edge is formed. Among the features of the choice, we note the following points:

• The winning drill was quite widespread. It can be used to work with various red.hot alloys. However, the surface with too high firmness with such a tool cannot be processed.
• The choice is made according to the diameter indicator. It should be borne in mind that getting a hole of large diameter is quite difficult. The option of executing a larger diameter is much more expensive due to the use of a large amount of material in its manufacture.
• Attention is paid to the angle of sharpening, the purpose of the product and the type of material used in the manufacture. For example, cobalt performance options are characterized by higher resistance to high temperature.
• It is recommended to pay attention to the products of extremely well.known manufacturers. This is due to the fact that Chinese execution options are made when using low.quality materials. However, such a proposal is much cheaper and can be used for short or disposable work.
• When choosing a drill, you can navigate on the marked marking. It can be determined by which materials used in the manufacture of. The diameter of the hole that can be obtained when using the tool is also indicated.

In a specialized store, you can find almost everything you need for work. However, the fairly high cost of the product and some other points determine that some decide to make a drill independently from improvised materials. Such work can be carried out if you have the required tools.

Homemade nozzle for drilling drill

All nozzles for drilling drills (with the exception of very exotic self.proceeds) have the same design that differs in different models with insignificant details. They appeared on the market relatively recently, and in our country the description and assembly drawing of such a device intended for its independent manufacture were first published in the magazine “Model-designer” (see. below).

Here the nozzle case (4) is made of a piece of metal pipe. The conductor (1) with holes corresponding to the diameters of the drained drills is inserted and fixed into its upper end. Before starting work, the case with a sleeve (5) and a screw (6) is attached to the neck of the drill (7). For sharpening, the drill is inserted into the corresponding hole in the conductor, after orienting the cutting edge at risk towards the rotation axis. Then slightly crush it with your hand, pressing for a few seconds to the surface of the sharpening circle. After that, they remove, rotated by 180º and in the same way is pulled the opposite edge.

The most difficult for independent manufacture in this device is a grinding stone, t. to. To sharpen the drill under 120º, the slope of its upper plane should be strictly 30º. The journal recommends giving it the desired shape on a lathe using a special tool (probably a diamond pencil for editing abrasive circles). Such an operation is hardly possible in a home workshop, and it will probably be expensive to order a shredpread on the side. In addition, almost the same factory.made nozzles of about 700 are sold at a price of their only difference from the sharpening device depicted in the drawing. this is the shape of the sharpening stone, which they have the shape of a cup, and therefore the drilling is sharpened by its inner surface.