How to disassemble an anchor of a drill for copper. Calculation of copper in electric motors:

How to quickly disassemble the electric motor for copper

Copper in the rotor, a couple of methods of disassembly., Copper fever. or how to remove windings from the electric motor, a lot of copper. Parsing of electric motors. Part 1., We analyze the Soviet electric motor. Project, mega analysis of anchors. Happy Birthday Timosha!, Analysis of the engine anchor without the use of corner grinder (turbine)!

It is also profitable to save money and time, as well as to get rid of non.working engines will help specialized scrap metal reception points. It is important that the selected company has licenses of the Department of Nature Management and Environment of the Federation. These documents certify the right to organize with scrap of non.ferrous and ferrous metals, as well as with waste.

The licensed reception point can redeem the equipment assembly, but the price for 1 kg of scrap will be minimal. After redemption, experts will disassemble the electric motor for copper, aluminum, stainless steel and utilize the remnants of the equipment. If you want to help out more funds, you will have to make a little effort: find out how to disassemble the electric motor for copper, extract and, if necessary, burn the non.ferrous metal.

Necessary tools:

Electric motor. the basis of all electric drive mechanisms. It is used in the automotive industry, agriculture and other industries and is necessary for converting electric energy into mechanical, as well as for the tradition of rotational movement to various details and mechanisms. Engines are made from different types of metal, including colored: brass, copper, bronze. To protect against external influences, the elements of the electric motor are placed in a durable aluminum case.

The engines that have developed their resource and unsuitable for repair often throw away. But they can contain toxic substances, so their disposal must comply with the standards for the disposal of waste from the use of goods. They are approved by order of the Government of the Federation 970-r dated December 28, 2017. In accordance with the standards, the release of electric motors to a landfill is prohibited, and conditions and equipment are needed for disposal.

How to disassemble the anchor of the electric motor for copper

When he was perestroika, the masses were worried about how to disassemble the electric motor. They paid little, many, especially military units with rich property, sinned: they helped the state dispose of unnecessary mechanisms for free.

Before. transformers, electric engines. Cables got into the category. It’s easier to treat copper. they simply burned insulation, resin, gutted. Aluminum was abandoned: cheaper, more problems, melting point below.

Loses metal strength. value is reduced.

Checking the power circuits

When repaired of the failed electrical equipment, sometimes the case does not reach the repair of the collector engine. it turns out that the extension cord is faulty, the power cord is interrupted, the connection terminal is unscrewed, or the switch is stuck. The presence of voltage should be checked on the nodes of the supply electric motor for 220V, starting from the plug fork, ending with the contact block of connection.

Blind the power cord and the power button

Since the collector electric motors comparison of the electromagnetic fields occurs due to the constant switching of the rotor windings (collector brushes), the mechanical cause of the loss of electrical contact in the manifold is the most common. The principle of action of collector engines is described in the previous article, and the following will be given some tips for repairing and replacing the rotor contacts (anchor).

Rotor (anchor) of a collector electric motor

In various autonomous power tools, kitchen electrical appliances and children’s toys, direct current collector engine is often used. Power supply of electric motors is carried out by a constant voltage coming from batteries, rectifiers, or control controllers. The presence of voltage is not always indicated by the power of the power source (the battery can be planted), so the collector and the entire circuit is also checked when the collector electric motor is turned on.

Low.power collector engine engine with control controller

If the equipment of the equipment has stopped rotating, first of all, check the voltage to the input contacts of the collector engine when it is turned on.

Briefly about the device of collector electric motors

In collector electric motors, the magnetic fields of the stator and rotor interact at an angle that is as profitable as possible to give the shaft the moment of rotation. The rotation angle (rotor position) and at the same time switching system are collector brushes on the rotor. The system of coils with magnetic circuits creating the resulting electromagnetic field to give the moment is called an anchor.

The principle of action of a collector electric motor using a direct current engine example

In most collector electric motors, an anchor is an anchor whose electromagnetic field “clings” for magnetic fields of magnets or stator windings. Therefore, the word “anchor” is often understood as a collector engine rotor, since switching the stator windings is more complex and less effective.

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Collector DC electric motors with magnets are used mainly in children’s toys and in electric drive devices of cars. To create a powerful magnetic field and a stronger torque, excitation coils are used, which are connected in several ways:

• The sequential connection (the current of the collector and coils of excitement is equal). The advantage is a large maximum moment, which, however, can be a lack of idle, unwinding the shaft of the collector electric motor to critically high speeds;
• Parallel connection. The advantage is the good stability of the rotor of the collector engine when changing the load on the shaft, but the maximum moment is less compared to sequential excitement;
• Mixed excitement, in which one part of the rotor and stator windings are connected sequentially, and the other is parallel. The most popular example of the use of mixed excitement in collector electric motors is a car starter;
• Independent excitement, in which the current of the rotor and stator collector is regulated separately. It is used in powerful collector electric motors on electric locomotives.

Schemes of connecting excitation coils in a direct current engine

Leaving aside the theory, it should be noted that the collector drivers of direct current with sequential excitement can also work from alternating voltage, in fact, being universal. These engines have an additional conclusion for connecting alternating voltage and are widely used in various power tools, due to the “flexible” characteristics of changes in speed and the moment of rotation.

Excitement coils and designation of a universal collector engine

Checking the arousal coils

Based on the device of the collector electric motor, the search for malfunctions can be conditionally divided into checking the arousal coils (or permanent magnets) and the rotor windings. When repairing direct current engines with magnets, attention should be paid to them in search of cracks, since they worsen the tension of the magnetic field, which reduces the overall characteristics of the electric motor.

Collector engine section with constant magnets

The excitation coils are checked by an ohmmeter, checking their conductivity, as well as with a megammeter, excluding a breakdown on the case. Since the inter.seal closing in the turns of the excitation coil is extremely difficult to reveal, using only a multimeter, they use indirect methods, checking the color of wires of windings for the presence of traces of overheating or visible damage. Knowing the exact resistance of the arousal coils from the electric motor passport, you can compare data with the measurement results of an ohmmeter.

Since the inter.seal closing in the turns of excitation coils is a rare malfunction, they are limited only to checking these windings, transferring attention to the check and repair of the electric motor anchor. The anchor of the collector engine can be conditionally divided into several parts:

An alternative to expensive disposal

It is also profitable to save money and time, as well as to get rid of non.working engines will help specialized scrap metal reception points. It is important that the selected company has licenses of the Department of Nature Management and Environment of the Federation. These documents certify the right to organize with scrap of non.ferrous and ferrous metals, as well as with waste.

The licensed reception point can redeem the equipment assembly, but the price for 1 kg of scrap will be minimal. After redemption, experts will disassemble the electric motor for copper, aluminum, stainless steel and utilize the remnants of the equipment. If you want to help out more funds, you will have to make a little effort: find out how to disassemble the electric motor for copper, extract and, if necessary, burn the non.ferrous metal.

What metals the electric motor consists of

Inside the electric engine are located:

• Stator. motionless elements that perform the function of the magnetic circuit;
• rotor. chassis consisting of turns of wires conducting electricity.

The design of the motor includes other metal parts made of aluminum, bronze, copper (bushings, a collector, conductive brushes, etc.). But not all engines are equipped with a copper winding. In the old technique produced earlier than the 1990s, aluminum turns are often found. Later it became known that they are less durable, and also form a galvanic pair with other metals and are very prone to corrosion.

Before extracting the winding in order to remove copper from the electric motor, it is important to determine its composition. But this is only possible for experienced people or those who can use the spectrometer. Such equipment is at the intake points of scrap metal.

Which engines can be handed over

The points of receiving metal scrap and secondary raw materials take such types of electric engines:

• walking brownient, installed on milling machines and industrial equipment;
• DC serpavigors suitable for robotic machines;
• DC electric motors (DPT) used in drive tools, toys and equipment;
• linear, used in electric transport, freight, pile and cutting special equipment;
• compressors combining the functions of an electric drive and compressor, therefore used in household appliances and on electric vehicles.

If you do not know how to quickly disassemble the electric motor for copper, contact a specialized company. Its employees will come to the house and dismantle equipment, as well as carry out related work.

Features of passing engines for scrap

The electric motors are placed in an aluminum corps, produced using a copper winding, brass and bronze brushes, bushings and washers from non.ferrous metals. Metal engines are attributed to the class of collapsible metal debris (TURCHREMET). Therefore, small reception points are reluctant to buy electric motors and set minimum prices, despite the high valuable non.ferrous metals in the engine winding and generator.

But before pulling copper from the electric motor, keep in mind: the metal obtained as a result of the analysis of the motor is not clean. It contains special impurities that increase the specific resistance of the metal and limit the starting currents of the generator. The presence of impurities chews the metal, which is why the cost of scrap metal in many points is determined by gross weight. When calculating the current cost, the market situation, the current cost of copper, black scrap and cast iron are also taken into account.

Analysis of the asynchronous engine

The asynchronous electric motor consists of a fixed stator and a rotating rotor. Inside the rotor is a shaft and a core of a shihno design with a short.closed winding. Due to the features of the design, the stages of analysis are slightly different:

• unscrewing the screws on the back cover and dismantling the protective casing of the fan;
• Removing the fan;
• unscrewing the bolts fixing the case;
• dismantling the front and rear covers;
• extracting the cover inside which the rotor is located;
• Dismantling the rotary shaft from the bearing in the lid.

You can extract the winding in the way described earlier: by dismantling the case by cutting off part of the copper wire and taking out the rest of the passathesi or pliers in parts.

Electric engines of collector and asynchronous type

Typical household electric engines

Instead of disassembleing the electric motor for copper for delivery to the nearest point, we offer to study the structure (show how to break). Problems arise when gutting the stator, rotor. The coils of the electric engine are collected by a similar principle. they are drowned into an isolated pre.grotto, sometimes clogged on top of the wedge. Due to the special shape of the hole, the design is firmly held in place. Most people are not bothering with windings of electric engines: sidewalls are cut off with a corner grinder, the wiring is knocked out of the place. You will see on YouTube. The rollers discusses the repair of electric motors regarding rewinding coils.

The photo shows two typical household electric motor:

Collector engine U8330

The option on the left is presented and taken from the PHILIPS kitchen combine. We apologize in advance for the refusal to disassemble to the end, we need to remove the ring that deeply goes into the plastic gear. It is simply dangerous, an electric engine costs 2000. Found irrational experiment in this way. Photo shows: the shaft is removed after disassembling the bed (held by two long bolts). The brushes are inconvenient (collector engine), there are a lot of copper here. Stator, rotor is equipped with windings. over, in the latter case, there are no wedges. Take a closer look, you can see: along the ends of the winding of the rotor (collector) of the electric engine are grabbed with glue. Dissolve, remove in another way. it is possible to dismantle. At the stature, the pole is struck at all: a skein of copper was bent on the periphery. A common thing for engines, when motionless coils are almost nothing holds.

Asynchronous engine

As you understand, the second option is an asynchronous electric engine. Removed from the household hood. Approximately so the simplest models are arranged. The electric engine has a massive magnetic circuit formed by two parts: internal, external. Due to the mass, the exhaust fan works poorly. When installing under the weight of an electric engine, it gradually bends downward. The blades begin to cling to the case, the device rumble like a tank, grinds, makes other sounds. But disassemble the asynchronous electric motor is a cute business. The inner part of the magnetic circuit should be knocked out of the external, the insulators, the coils of the stator (for rewinding) will come out in parallel. As for the rotor of the electric engine, it is made according to a short.closed scheme, to hand over the drum of Silumin for a favorable price will hardly turn out. If the item accepts, they will surely require the extraction of internal copper veins (indicated by oblique strokes on the surface). You will have to do, having enlisted the help of a chisel, a hammer, corner grinder. We wish good luck in a stubborn desire to earn extra 30, breaking an electric engine at the cost of such efforts.

Copper wire with lacquer insulation is used to wind the coils of the electric engine. Apparently, you will have to use the solvent, removing the layer. The large mass of the wires of the electric engine corresponds to a significant weight of the varnish, it will cause objection from the side of the bargaining. For the most part, the insulation (Promprovod.OML.ru) is performed on the basis of synthetic varnishes, for example, viniflex (VL 931). In terms of resistance to water, organic solvents, the material used in the manufacture of electric engines blocks the capabilities of the metalline (VL 941). Made on the basis of polyvinyl formal and phenol.formaldehyde resins will supply the coating with phenomenal resistance.

Heat.resistant enamels are formed by PE943 families (heaver acid, ethylene glycol, glycerin), PE939 (Lavsan). To increase impact resistance, stabilize immunity to heating, the compositions are modified by isocyanurat. Coatings resistance to heating reach classes F (155 C), H (180 C). Polythrimal varnishes are stronger in this regard of polyester. The solvent is the prezol in combination with coal solvent or xinol.

Some of the varnish is composed of substances on a natural basis (linseed oil). To improve qualities, the mixture is supplemented with synthetic resins, calcium rubber obtained from rosin. Kerosene is a solvent of varnishes. Good news: varnishes have poor resistance to solvents. In industry, a thin copper wire clean with ant at a temperature of 80 degrees. Remember: the substance is extremely dangerous. Once on the skin, inside the respiratory system causes a variety of damage, most are irreversible. It is required to use hood, it is better to work in street conditions.

Obvious advantages of copper winding

So, copper. The most plain and plastic (after gold) metal. It has such unique qualities as high conductivity with slight heating, strength and endurance. Copper is heavy metal and quite expensive. But we have already talked about the fact that it is better to buy an expensive generator once than several copies cheaper. We will say right away: only the copper winding of the generator is able to withstand enhanced loads without prejudice to its structure, which means the duration of operation of the generator with a copper winding incomparably higher. The conductivity of copper wire is higher than an aluminum by 1.7 times, while its resistance (in OM) is less, and, accordingly, less heating. We will summarize what to count in the pluses of a copper winding?

Increased work resource.2. Does not particularly overheat at the time of large loads.3. High conductivity. four. Stability to short circuits.5. High strength.6. Great heat transfer (cooling is faster). The disadvantages of the copper winding, in addition to its expensive cost, include weight. it weights the total weight of the generator, but not significantly.

Popular models of generators with copper winding:

“The generator Iron Angel can be attributed to the budget, but the build quality and materials are very pleasing. He, in contrast to more budget options, the generator winding is made of real copper. He launches my boiler, and I’m not afraid to connect a computer and expensive household appliances to it. He had bitter experience with a cheap Chinese junk, so these wise men mask the aluminum winding of the stator for copper, paint it in copper-yellow color. I had such a miracle of equipment more than the service than in work. Spat and gave it to spare parts for a penny. Regarding the Dutch manufacturer, I can say that this is price-quality.»© Victor

In what order to disassemble the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner

First of all, it is worth preparing the engine to unscrew the nut. To do this, unscrew the brushes located on the back of the motor and remove the casing that closes the impeller installed in the front.

In some electric engines, the casing sits too tight and in order to remove it, it is first necessary to bend the edges with the help of pliers a little. You need to do this throughout the circle and only then, using the screwdriver, it will be possible to pick up the casing and completely remove it from the engine.

To unscrew the nut, it is important to check the rotor correctly. You need to do this so that both the winding and the anchor are left without any damage. (The anchor is in the back of the electric motor). Try to squeeze the nut on both sides of the body as tightly as possible through the holes into which the brushes are inserted.

You can easily insert small woods from these holes into these holes. After the blocks are inserted, it is necessary to press them as tightly as possible directly to the anchor using a locksmith.

Using bars to fix nuts

In order to fix the nut, bars that have a length of 4 centimeters and a width of about 1 centimeter are perfect. The size of the bars must be adjusted, taking into account exactly which holes in the engine of your vacuum cleaner. They should easily fly into the holes for brushes and at the same time stick into an anchor. At the same time, the ends of the bars should go out slightly and have a certain stock. This is necessary to clamp them with a vice. So that the wooden blocks squeeze the rotor and at the same time do not slip off it, their ends are previously drained by a round.shaped prepared file.

Preparation of bars for holding a nut

When the bars are fully prepared, insert them into the holes on the electric engine. Drowned ends should be inside. Then press them tightly directly to the anchor using locksmith. This will fix the anchor so that it does not scroll at the time you unscrew the nut at the other end of the rotor.

Fixation of bars using locksmith

After the electric motor rotor is securely stained, it will be possible to use the wrench with the end.of.the.clock nozzle suitable in this case. Thanks to this, you can easily twist a small nut that gives all masters a huge amount of trouble.

On a note! If the nut does not want to unscrew in any way, then it can be a little warmed up. This will melt most of the sealant, which holds it. It is necessary to perform this procedure using the “spot” version of the heating. Use a special burner for convenience so that there is no damage to the winged plastic.

When the nut is removed, other parts that make up the electric engine of the vacuum cleaner will be removed without any problems. To remove them, just use the simplest screwdrivers. When an electric type motor is disassembled, you can figure out what exactly the appearance of a strange noise during its work provoked.

The electric motor of the vacuum cleaner disassembled

Copper in an electric motor: how to determine the quantity

After the copper.containing elements of the device are extracted, it is important to clean them of lighter materials: insulation residues, plastic fragments, rubber, etc. You can do this using a pneumatic vacuum cleaner pistol. Further, pure copper is weighed and thus its mass is determined.

The number of copper elements depends on the power of the electric motor. Tentatively from the device can be removed and handed over with a crowbar at a price of color metroat such a volume of copper:

• up to 50 kW-20-28 kg;
• up to 30 kW-up to 14-20 kg;
• up to 20 kW-10-13 kg;
• up to 10 kW-5-8 kg;
• up to 4 kW-3.5-4 kg;
• up to 2.5 kW-2.5-3.5 kg;
• up to 1 kW-1.5-2 kg.

By dismantling the device, you can 100% pass it at a higher price.

If it is difficult for you to dismantle the electric motor yourself, trust this work specialists of the scrap point, but keep in mind that the cost will be reduced by the cost.

Differences of electric motors in industrial production

Large enterprises with large production areas requires equipment operating at high capacities. Technical characteristics of electric motors allow such machines to function on capacities in the range from 1 to 2.5 kW.

The woodworking production uses three.phase type machines and the asynchronous principle of action. At the same time, they work without problems with a domestic voltage of 220 volts.

Distinctive features of such engines are:

• high power indicators with small dimensions;
• increased speed;
• moisture protection;
• Durability and performance.

Rules for the analysis of electric motor

Before you extract copper from the electric motor, take care of your own safety and carry out the necessary preparatory work. First of all, exclude the likelihood of injuries and loss of parts. In order not to suffer in the process of disassembly, discharge the capacitors (in case of presence). The device that the motor gives rotation should also be disconnected.

Breaking the elements with a sledgehammer and using a chisel, work in protective plastic glasses (small metal fragments can seriously injure eyes). Copper wire firing in the open air to avoid poisoning of combustion products. To reduce fire hazard, use a metal sheet lining.

How to extract copper from an electric motor

If you are not experienced enough, we recommend watching a video on how to disassemble the electric motor for copper. Those who have experience and the necessary tools are advised to operate a corner grinder or sledgehammer to accelerate the disassembly process. Cut the electric motor body along and in half to get to the stator. Cut the visible part of the copper winding, and burn the stator about 1.5 hours to remove metal from the grooves. When he cools down, you can extract the remaining copper with the help.

The stator of a low.power electric motor can be warmed with a gas burner by directing the flame inside (the recommended temperature is about 3500c). The lead stick will help to control the process: melting half of the metal rod indicates a sufficient degree of heating. On the winding of a powerful electric motor, you can pulp the electrics with a pulse, avoiding the heating of iron elements.

Stages of disassembling the electric motor

If you want to know how to quickly disassemble the electric motor for copper at home, follow our recommendations:

• First remove the lid and spin the fasteners located on the case;
• Remove bearings (they can also be handed over to scrap metal);
• Open the body and remove the rotor;
• Remove the back cover and dismantle the shaft;
• Up the joints, then remove the copper winding.

Elements extracted from the case should be sorted by composition and type. The collector and aluminum corps of the electric motor can be crushed into small parts with a pneumatic hammer with a special nozzle-toothyl. The nodes and elements containing copper are more convenient to cut into fragments in size from 1.5 to 2 cm. To extract aluminum from the electric motor, you need to warm up the rotor to about 7000C, withstanding it in a hot state for at least 90 minutes. This method will completely melt aluminum rods from the rotor.

Dismantling of the collector engine

In cars and household instruments (corner grinders, peorators, etc.P.) installed collector devices. How to quickly disassemble an electric motor of this type? The work order looks like this:

• Disassemble the tool case and disconnect the halves.
• Remove the brush from the nests.
• Raise the design that is in the case and remove the stator from the anchor.
• Remove it simultaneously with bearings.

With a car engine you will have to “tinker” longer:

• Remove the fan. To do this, unscrew the spring brackets and put the support lid with a screwdriver.
• Having twisted the fasteners, remove the brush holders and support.
• Remove the brush holder, taking out 2 embedded nuts.
• Inspect the collector. In the presence of pollution or scratches, clean it with a small skin.

Start installing parts back from the puck, which is put on the shaft. Then you need to remove the springs from the brushes and bend the edges of the guides, where the brushes are inserted all the way. Install the brush holder on the engine, insert the springs and bend the edges of the guides. Insert the fan support and fix it with clamps.