When making a do-it-yourself circular saw table, you will need woodworking skills and the following tool:
- Hand circular saw;
- Plywood sheet with a thickness of at least 20 mm;
- Board 50×100 mm;
- Bar 50×50 mm for legs;
- Drill, screwdriver, jigsaw, hand router;
- Wood glue, self-tapping screws;
- Wood varnish;
- Ruler and pencil.
The dimensions of the table largely depend on the length of the materials to be processed. the cut is much more accurate and smoother when the entire workpiece rests on the plane of the table. At the same time, the excessively large size of the table clutters the workspace, so it is necessary to find a middle ground. It is better to choose the height of the table individually, depending on the height.
Stationary machine with your own hands
For everyday or one-time tasks, a do-it-yourself circular is quite suitable. Small sawing jobs do not put heavy stress on the disc drive. The compact tool has small dimensions, which makes it possible to remove it after the end of work in a certain place. For an experienced carpenter, you will need to make a large stationary circular.
A stationary circular saw made with your own hands will require accuracy, literacy from the master. Drawings presented in many types of literature will help in the manufacture. It is worthwhile to competently and reverently treat each unit of the unit, because the circular is used at high speeds with a cutting tool.
Setting up the circular lathe for precise work
It is clear that not every home workshop has micrometers and hour indicators. Let’s learn to do without high-precision measuring instruments.
We make a table for a circular saw with our own hands. instructions and installation
The circular saw is a handy and productive tool for construction work, with high performance and maneuverability. But when cutting large batches of lumber, working with a powerful circular saw is quite difficult. A do-it-yourself circular saw table can significantly facilitate this task.
An easy-to-manufacture table can be made of plywood and boards. In this case, the hand-held circular saw is installed from the lower part of the tabletop, and its toothed disc is located in the slot of the tabletop. After turning on the saw, the blade begins to rotate, and when the sawn timber is fed, it is cut. The maximum thickness of the cut lumber depends on the size of the blade and the power of the saw. When choosing a tool, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the tabletop, to which the saw is attached from below.
Purpose of the circular saw
Before you start assembling the machine, you need to clearly define its purpose. A firmly fixed table with a saw slot is enough for harvesting firewood and simply cutting large pieces of wood. This type is common in villages and rural areas, the machines do not differ in safety and increased functionality.
For a more varied range of joinery jobs, you need a better option. The circular must be equipped with a coordinate table with special guides, this allows you to change the degree. Manufacturing small items requires increased safety. Speed control is set, disc change is provided.
DIY circular in action
Checking the saw table stops
The cuts on the circular saw will be flawless when the saw blade is parallel to the groove of the cross fence and the rip fence. Otherwise, burns are inevitable, not squareness and rough edges of the workpieces.
Check the parallelism of the groove and the disc with a simple device consisting of a straight cut with a screwed-in screw fixed to the stop. Install an improvised probe until the tooth touches the blade and secure with a clamp. Then move the device along the groove to the far edge of the disc. maintaining the tightness of the touch of the screw indicates the strict parallelism of the machine parts.
To change the position of the table in circular carpentry machines, there are four screws at the corners of the body. In household models, parallelism is usually adjusted by shifting the motor, for which you need to unscrew the nuts from the bottom of the machine.
Advice. Excessive free movement of the corner stop along the groove can be tried to be corrected by punching holes on the side faces. It does not help. you will have to purchase a new one or make a homemade one, at least for accurately cutting at a right angle.
When finished with the table, check the longitudinal stop with a bar that fits tightly into the groove, inserting it from both sides.
Perform the steps necessary to adjust the stop according to the instructions for the saw machine and adjust its scale.
DIY circular saw table
No woodwork is complete without sawing. Manual circulars are not very convenient for my tasks, and I have long had a desire to make a table for circulars. Because I have a small workshop. so I needed a small table. I finally made it last week. (“Laziness is the engine of progress” It was necessary to saw for the next wooden product, and without it I didn’t even want to start) It took 4 pm to make a table with equipment.
The table turned out to be simple, but quite functional.
Table dimensions (W520 x D500 x H230 mm), cross-cut slide (W580 x D170 x H 80mm)
Rip saw fence.
For the countertop, I managed to find a 9mm laminated plywood sheet on the market. What made me very happy was that it was perfectly sawn off: all sides are strictly 90 o. I attached a hand-held circular BlackDecker CD601 to the tabletop. (1100 W, 5000 rpm, 170mm). The saw can change the depth and angle of the cut.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
For installation on a table, in general, any circular is suitable, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast can crack.
There is another popular way to attach the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base. to attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not correct enough in terms of the accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not begin to use it.
Another important parameter of the manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The base is made of 22mm chipboard panels. I chose the dimensions of the base so that the equipment could be attached to the edge of the tabletop.
Table Saw Accident!
The disc sawn through to the top of the tabletop. Height. 40mm (160mm Bosh wood disc). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular itself. Convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disc is tilted imperceptibly. And all the cuts will be chamfered. It is imperative to check with an instrumental square that the disc is at 90 degrees, relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to your native site. If the disc is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
To make the saw start more convenient to control. put the start button (it turned out that this is the most expensive part of my table )
I placed a saw socket inside the table, which will now be turned on by the start button.
To do this, the saw button on the handle was fixed with a tie in the pressed position.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (made in one evening and one morning).
Sawing without equipment, of course, is possible using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
For cross-cutting, I made such a slide.
This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. Pressing the rail on the slide, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
This is how the rail is sawn.
You can even cut a slat like sausage For example, I cut several pieces of different thickness.
Skids solve only part of the problem. For rip sawing, you also need a side fence.
For this I bought a 30×30 aluminum pipe and a pair of M6 screws with thumbs.
Glued brackets made of plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
The emphasis turned out to be simple and reliable.
Grips the edges with a stranglehold.
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It has only one drawback. each time setting the size, you have to align it so that it is strictly parallel to the disk.
And finally, a trifle.
A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of a furniture board.
I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture board, plywood. It became much easier to carry out all these work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.
In the future, I will further refine this table:
– I will redo the side fence for rip sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the blade
– I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
– I will make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now, when I saw, the disc throws wood dust in my face)
– I will finish the improved pusher. I have already started to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.
Simple sawing table for a hand-held circular saw do it yourself
Hello dear readers and homemade products!
An irreplaceable assistant in a carpentry workshop is a circular machine. Of course, not everyone has such a unit, but almost everyone can afford a hand-held circular saw.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Mistry MakeTool” will tell you how to expand the capabilities of such a hand tool by making a simple sawing table with a guide for it.
This project is very easy to make and can be easily repeated in half an hour.
– Sheet plywood 14 mm thick
– Pine bar 50X50 mm
– Aluminum corner, wood screws
So, ordinary sheet plywood, a piece of laminated chipboard or MDF, from which a rectangular part is cut out, will serve as the base.
To the upper side of the base, along its edges, you need to attach two pine beams 50X50 mm.
To do this, the author turns the base over with the most even surface down, puts the bars under the edges, and aligns them. Then, in a checkerboard pattern, pilot holes are made for self-tapping screws using a wood drill with a countersink. It remains to fasten the parts together with self-tapping screws.
The same operation is performed with the second edge of the guide.
Before securing the edge of the second guide, the author moves the saw to that side to get the exact distance between the guides.
A hole is marked on the casing and a hole is made into which (at the very tip) the locking screw is screwed.
To check, it is enough to combine both trims with each other. As a result. a high-quality joint, and a total angle of 90 degrees.
Of course, other cutting angles can be obtained with such a device. It is enough to make the corresponding holes for the stop in the base.
Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!