Tiller design features
Such an assembly consists of a drive, transmission, chassis and wheels. The tiller is controlled by levers and rods mounted on the steering wheel. For light and medium-sized units, the drive is usually a gasoline internal combustion engine. Heavier tillers are equipped with diesel drives.
Lubrication, ignition, gas distribution, cooling, fuel delivery systems and a starting mechanism are mandatory. They have their own characteristics depending on the type of motor used as a tiller drive.
The gearbox, clutch and gearbox (in some models also a differential) ensure the conversion of the engine shaft torque into the rotation of a pair of wheels. They can be pneumatic or weighted metal with additional lugs for work under load.
Tiller homemade mini tractors have a seat and an extra pair of wheels. They can be controlled or driven. Depending on the design, the tiller turns into a four-wheel drive unit with a drive on the rear or front axle.
Buying a tiller without a hitch or with only one plow for plowing and turning the soil layer is in most cases impractical. A set of additional equipment allows you to significantly expand the capabilities of the unit.
In this case, it can be used for planting and harvesting root crops, for processing row spacings and hilling beds, for mowing hay, tedding it and picking it up. Trailed trolley with a seating position allows you to transport goods.
In winter, the tiller can be equipped with a front scraper and can be used to remove snow from the road. All equipment can be purchased, rather than using different homemade products. For the tiller “Neva”, for example, the manufacturer produces enough attachments.
However, often the owners still alter it for themselves. For some, the factory hitch is not powerful enough and does not withstand loads, for others there are not enough adjustments to adjust it to work in certain conditions, and still others are simply used to making the tool themselves.
DIY homemade products for the tiller
Complete equipment is not always suitable for business conditions. In order not to constantly cut off individual parts, not to weld stiffeners to strengthen the structure or additional brackets for fastenings, you can do everything yourself.
Even the plow and disc hiller are made by craftsmen at home. For this, one desire, drawing and material is not enough. Additional equipment will be required: a gas cutter, a welding machine, an angle grinder and practical skills in working with them.
DIY homemade products for a tiller can be made using spare parts from old cars. The trailer can be manufactured using the rear axle from the “passenger car”. If you throw out the gearbox and connect the axle shafts with a pipe, you get a reliable rear beam. Welding the frame and sheathing it with tin or board is not a problem. The springs can be taken from “Moskvich”. you get a reliable design with a decent carrying capacity.
A homemade scraper can be made from sheet metal 1–2 mm thick. If you weld stiffeners to the sheet curved along the profile, they can not only remove snow, but also be used as a bulldozer bucket for leveling soil or humus.
Mini tractors. homemade products from tiller. Self-propelled guns from tiller do it yourself
The benefits of a tiller for gardeners and summer residents are invaluable. Still, it cannot be compared with the mechanization of work with a full-fledged tractor. Anyone who had experience with a tiller probably thought about how to improve their single-axis drive.
Some craftsmen even decide to convert it into a miniature four-wheeled tractor. Currently, homemade tiller products can be found everywhere. Despite the fact that manufacturers produce quite a lot of attachments for them, our craftsmen alter them at their discretion.
tiller. affordable mechanization for field work
You can solve the problem of processing a vegetable garden by applying a tiller and using attachments to it. With the help of such devices, it is possible at a sufficiently high level to ensure plowing and cultivation of the soil, preparing it for planting the main crops, as well as harvesting. This saves time and labor costs, since manual digging and weeding even on six acres of a vegetable garden is not an easy job.
When working in a confined space and with an abundance of various crops on site, the operator should have good two-wheeled handling skills. Do-it-yourself homemade hinges for the tiller are made taking into account the experience of their use for specific economic conditions. Although such structures have an unpresentable appearance, they ensure the fulfillment of the main tasks.
Advantages of a mini tractor
The tiller is adapted for field work, but not everyone can manage it. For example, an elderly person who does not have good health will have to expend a lot of effort when maneuvering. Another point is the constant load on the legs. In order for the tiller to work the soil, he must be driven by the horns.
Anyone who has ever worked with a tiller on plowing, cultivation or other tillage, understands how much effort it takes to manage it. Hold during a jerk, direct in a rut, turn around, take back. At the same time, do not get confused in the control levers and do not go where you do not need to. often this is work in the sweat of your brow. Many tiller owners, having tried such mechanization, sell their units without adapting to their control.
Controlling a mini tractor is a completely different matter. Why walk around the field behind the machine, wasting energy, when you can operate it while sitting on horseback. The drive is the same, the speed is the same, but all this is sitting and no load. Tiller homemade products provide a sufficient level of comfort. Control levers under the hands, there is a brake.
An additional pair of wheels, set at a sufficient distance (1–1.2 m), provides reliable support. Another advantage is the ability to transport loads in a trailed trolley or a body mounted on a rear driven axle.
Mini tractors. Homemade products from Tiller
Manufacturing a mini-tractor “by eye” or even according to ready-made drawings, as a rule, implies the need for modifications after the first tests. Not everything can be fixed with just an angle grinder and welding.
Often there is a need for additional turning or milling work. Often, a design that looks perfect on paper turns out to be unusable after manufacturing.
For those who want to create a homemade mini-tractor from a tiller, but have no design experience, there is an affordable option. to purchase a ready-made conversion kit. It is not cheap, but all of its components are made in a factory. They are tested and precisely matched to each other and to the power plant.
This kit usually includes: a frame with mounts for the engine; secure seat; footrests with control manipulators; front beam with steering rods, wheel hubs and brake discs; protective fenders for wheels; hand-lifter attachment.
The owner, having purchased such a kit, can independently disassemble his tiller into its components and, according to the diagram, mount all the parts on a new frame.
Let’s start with the simplest option in the form of an axle extension with a transverse groove. It will be quite reliable even when made from affordable low carbon steel.
This mechanism is well known in all its variations: both with a ratchet mechanism (bicycle wheel hub) and with roller wedging (electric starter bendix).
Overrunning clutches are also used in the power drive of a number of vehicles with connected axles. However, such a solution has a characteristic feature: when cornering, the overrunning clutch is disconnected at the wheel running along the outer radius, since it tends to rotate faster than the drive shaft.
To facilitate entry into a turn, on the contrary, most of the torque should be imparted to him.
This problem is solved in the classic gear differential, which distributes power inversely with the resistance to rotation of the wheels.
But it is also much more difficult to manufacture, and also requires forced full or partial blocking off-road, since otherwise it redistributes all the power to the skidding wheel.
Many works performed with a tiller (for example, cultivation) assume its rectilinear movement. In this case, the rigid drive to both wheels works great, significantly reducing the cost and simplifying the tiller.
If you need frequent sharp turns, a tiller of this type will require the application of noticeable physical efforts. one of the wheels will brake with lugs, and the tiller will have to tilt, hanging the outer wheel in the air.
This is especially difficult if the tiller has a wide track and a large enough weight.
Tiller half-axles with differentials
Tiller and cultivator half-axles
Trailer hub bearing 5.00-10 (pos. 25mm)
Semi-axles 23 × 23 (250mm)
Semi-axles 23 × 23 differential (130mm)
Semi-axles 23 × 23 differential Type2 (220mm)
Semi-axes 30mm differential Type3 (200mm)
Half shafts 30mm tiller 4 × 140
Semi-axles 30mm tiller under the wheel of a VAZ car
Semi-axles 32 × 32 (210mm)
Semi-axles 32 × 32 (250mm)
Half shafts 32 × 32 for milling cutters (pair)
Semiaxes 32x32mm differential Type1 (220mm)
Axle extension Celina 404
Axle extension Celina MB-501
Axle extension Celina MB-550
Axle extender Celina MB-601
How to make a homemade differential for a tiller with your own hands. drawings
How to make a differential for a tiller with your own hands? As a rule, the operation of a tiller does not require a long rotation of the wheel relative to the drive axle.
Due to this, often called “semi-differential” schemes are common, which provide the ability to freely rotate the wheel about the axis at a certain angle.
For more details on the “half-differential” see
The simplest mechanism in this case looks like a bushing with a transverse slot attached to the tiller axis. A short axle is inserted inside this bushing, secured from falling out by a bolt wrapped in its body through a slot, and a wheel is attached directly to the axle.
At the same time, when the tiller moves, the drive axle turns the bushing freely until the rear edge of the slot rests against the bolt, and then transmits torque through it to the axle.
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During the turn, the wheel, trying to overtake the drive, moves the bolt forward along the slot, breaking the transmission of torque, and the angle of easy rotation of the tiller depends on the length of the slot.
Such extension cords are extremely simple and can be made by unskilled machine operators, and therefore are cheap and widespread. Usually they are made with several additional holes, allowing you to vary the tiller track width and rigidly connect the wheel to the drive axle if necessary.
Blueprints of these homemade differentials are widespread on the internet.
The disadvantage of the described design is the relatively small possible angle of free rotation of the wheel (no more than 240 degrees), since the transverse groove greatly reduces the overall strength of the mechanism, and high internal friction, especially when dirt is inevitable inside the hub.
Freewheel extensions are most commonly used on light tillers like the Niva.
Differential for tillers Salyut and the likes of Texas, Foreman, Viking, Forza, Sadko, Don, Huter, Profi, having a relatively large mass, has a slightly more complex design, but also a larger freewheel angle. within 330 degrees.
This is ensured by the fact that the engagement is carried out by protrusions on the drive axle extension and on a freely rotating hub fixed thereon, equipped with ball bearings. Accordingly, the hub can make almost a full revolution about the axis until it rests against the opposite edge of the protrusion.
It is noticeably easier to deploy a tiller with such differentials.
A number of designs allow the wheels to rotate freely about the axis and more than one revolution. For example, the Farmer tiller differential consists of two clutches controlled by levers on the steering wheel.
If necessary, the owner of the tiller can disengage the desired clutch, allowing the corresponding wheel to rotate as long as desired.
It is better to use the bolt connecting the components of the extension with a head for an internal hexagon and mill a groove with a width equal to its outer diameter.
In this case, firstly, there are no protruding parts capable of winding grass around themselves, and secondly, the bolt tightened to the stop will not loosen over time.
The gap between the bushing and the extension shaft must not be made too small, since they will touch each other if corrosion occurs. It is highly desirable to place a grease fitting on the sleeve for CIP lubrication of the structure.
The more complex pivoting hub design can also be made from mild steel as it welds easily.
Finishing of the bearing bores in the hub must be done after the flange and steering angle stop have been welded to it due to the inevitable warping of the part during welding.
The invested labor costs will quickly pay off by facilitating the operation of the tiller.
tiller with differential: overrunning clutch and unblockers, how to make a lock with your own hands. drawings
An integral part of the power drive of any vehicle with multiple wheels on one axle can be considered a differential for a tiller. The purpose of this mechanism is to distribute power between the wheels depending on rolling resistance, which is extremely necessary when cornering.
Since the wheel passing the outer arc of the turning trajectory, in the same time passes a longer distance than the wheel following the inner arc, it must rotate faster, otherwise it will slip.
Thus, an axle devoid of a differential will tend to straighten its movement, and this effect is expressed the stronger, the greater the distance between the wheels.
With your own hands. How to do it yourself
How to properly weight a tiller
How to teach a lightweight Chinese tiller to plow?
The new unit, without plowing even 10 m, got stuck: the wheels slipped, the lugs were buried in the soil. What to do?
Weighting the tiller with your own hands. to plow better
STARTED LOOKING FOR THE REASON WHY THE TILLER BINDS
The tiller has enough power, although it is gasoline. Large 5/12 wheels give excellent traction. There is only one reason left. the low weight of the tiller (according to the passport. 125 kg).
I started looking for a way to fix this problem.
It turned out that there are several methods.
- 1. Make a form-weighting agent in the sand and pour molten lead into it (too difficult).
- 2. Make weighting agents from a mixture of concrete and crushed stone (cheap, but short-lived).
- 3. Fill any container with sand and hang it on the tiller (unreliable, inconvenient).
What if you increase the weight of the tiller with metal weights??
I went to the reception point for ferrous metals, where I found several weights of different weight from old industrial scales from the Soviet era, a couple of pancakes from a sports bar weighing 10 kg. two clutch baskets with flywheels from VAZ 2101.2107 cars and one counterweight for 25 kg. from a tractor.
In a local shop with spare parts for tillers, I bought an additional section of tiller cutters. a faceted tube with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of 15-20 cm on which four blades of the cutter are installed. Now all the details of future weighting materials have been collected from me.
First of all, I installed a pair of Yu-kilogram weights from the scales on the “back” of the tiller (that is, on the gearbox, where, in theory, the battery should be installed, if it were included in the kit). Giri was pre-cooked together. I fastened them to the gearbox body with two 12 mm bolts. With a second pair of 12 mm bolts, I attached the same weights to the tiller’s steering wheel bracket.
Then, from a corner of 40/40 mm, I welded a frame for a 25-kilogram kettlebell from a tractor. It looks like a pancake with a diameter of 30 cm and a thickness of 8 cm, in the middle of which there is a slot in the shape of the letter T. He put the weight in a frame and pulled it with a nut so that it would not fall during work. The structure was installed on top of the weights. Tiller weight increased by 48 kg!
How to do something yourself, with your own hands. home master’s site
THE NEXT STAGE. TIGHTENING THE TILLER WHEELS
For each wheel I welded a load weighing 27 kg each. Here we needed pancakes from the bar (they were welded to the VAZ clutch basket, which also weighs 10 kg). Outside of this pyramid, I welded a 5 kg cast iron weight from an industrial scale.
Used for welding electrodes on cast iron.
After that, the angle grinder cut off the 32nd hex from the additional section I purchased from the cutters. Its length is 12 cm, and its weight is 2 kg. The hexagon was quite enough for attaching the weighting agent in the tiller axle to the cotter pin.
From the inside of the weighting agent in the center, right on the pancake, I welded a hexagon. The second weighting agent for the wheel was made in the same way. Now the tiller weighs 102 kg more.
The last remaining weight of 10 kg was installed as a counterweight to the front bumper-pipe of the tiller. I preliminarily made a frame under this weight (by the way, also from the scales). I used a metal tape for her. cutting it out of the old case of the computer system unit. The tape was inserted into the guides welded from the bottom to the tiller frame from a profiled pipe 50/50 mm. Everything, the final! Now the tiller (along with the additional weights installed on it) began to weigh 237 kg. I decided to try it out in the field.
The labors were not in vain. The unit was going confidently, without feeling the load, and this despite the fact that the plow was deepened by 20 cm. So now I can confidently say. that any tiller of light and middle class simply needs to be loaded with additional weight, be it a container with sand or a homemade weighting agent made of concrete.
After a few years, I changed the gasoline tiller to a new one with a 9 horsepower diesel engine. Despite the fact that he weighed 170 kg, he also had to be heavier. Some homemade weights, however, had to be slightly adapted to take into account the new model, but the principle of the location of the weights remained the same. Is that now the front has installed a load weighing 19 kg, on wheels. 27 kg each. On top of the checkpoint there was a battery weighing 12 kg.
So I would like to advise all “motoblockers” and people who only want to acquire tillers: buy them, do not be afraid, everything can be fixed! And even what at first glance seems incorrigible to you. Nowadays, you need to put your hands on everything, otherwise modern technology will simply refuse to work.
Differential Tiller Hub
The hub for the tiller is the main component in the operation of such equipment. It is designed to be attached to the tiller of attachments designed for performing agronomic manipulations.
Replace Wheel Seal Troy-Bilt HORSE tiller pony bronco econo horse
The hub can be used to attach equipment such as pneumatic wheels.
There are two types of hubs:
- differential hub.
It is generally accepted that the differential hub is universal for all types of tillers. It makes it possible to simplify the maneuvers of the technique and is suitable for both the cart and the tiller. The differential hub consists of a retainer and several bearings. To perform the turning maneuver, you just need to unlock the required lock. The hub with bearings is used for the tiller cart and is universal for all motoblock agricultural machinery. When using a hub with a differential, you will simplify your life and improve the functionality of the tiller, thereby prolonging its working life.
Tillers with wheels are standardly equipped with these elements, but it is not very convenient to remove them every time when it is necessary to attach attachments. Therefore, it is logical to acquire another pair. This will save you time and reduce wear on key components. Below you can familiarize yourself with a diagram of how to make a hub for a tiller with your own hands.
Tiller hubs: how to make it yourself?
The need for these devices for a tiller is undeniable. Different types of such structural elements are used for motor vehicles. They can be purchased on the motoblock equipment market or made with your own hands. The process is straightforward if you follow the instructions exactly. It is enough just to make a hub for a tiller with your own hands using the following drawing.
When crafting a part by hand, it is best to use the highest quality materials. There is a need for the element to be durable, since a large load falls on it during operation.
Tiller hubs. features and how to do it yourself?
Tiller hubs are a necessary element to install pneumatic wheels or metal lugs on the unit. It belongs to the mounted type of equipment. Its main purpose is to aggregate pneumatic or metal wheels with hooks to motoblock equipment.
In this article, we will talk in detail about what a hub for a tiller is, what are its main functions. We will also touch on the topic of how to make hubs for a tiller with your own hands, using ready-made drawings and pictures for this.
Helpful hints and tips
When using hub elements for a cultivator or walk-behind tractor, you need to remember the following rules. They will help improve the performance of these parts.
- When ordering a hub for a tiller, it is imperative to indicate the type and model of the motoblock device.
- Traditionally, one hub set is sold complete with agricultural equipment. It is recommended to purchase an additional kit. Then, when working with different types of mounted agricultural equipment, it will not be necessary to rearrange the hub components. In particular, this applies to the use of lugs. This “trick” will save time.
- If pneumatic wheels are included in the kit for the motoblock device, then the hub parts will also go in the kit for this agricultural technique.
General information and characteristics
For a cart, tiller, cultivator, the hub is an irreplaceable component. With the help of this part, and also, thanks to the installation of a special hitch, it is possible to much more efficiently and better quality, for example, hilling and plowing the land, harvesting, planting potatoes.
The hub for the tiller is of two main types. In particular, these are:
- hub with differential for tiller with unlocking (differential);
- ordinary detail.
It is believed that the hub is differential. it is universal for all types of tillers. Hubs for a tiller with a differential are needed if the walk-behind tractor is not equipped with a wheel unlocking function, and turning or turning the agricultural machinery causes great difficulties at the end of the beds. Differential hub with bearings for cart or tiller will improve the maneuverability of the device. That is why the differential hub is universal for all types of tillers: it allows you to make only one additional revolution to the stop and makes it easier to maneuver the device.
Differential options (or semi-axles with a differential) consist of:
- from the retainer;
- one or two bearings.
To make a U-turn, it is necessary to remove the lock from the latch on the right side.
The hub for the tiller can also be of different diameters. There are such details in shape:
- hex (24 and 32 millimeters);
How to make hubs for a tiller with your own hands?
It is not difficult to make the hubs for the tiller according to the drawings with your own hands. The technology is simple.
To begin with, the product is turned from a metal blank on a lathe. Alternatively, you can grind a flange and weld it to a part of a metal rod or pipe. Grinding the part is worth according to the dimensions in the drawing.
For making an element with your own hands, it is best to use high-quality steel. This part will constantly be subjected to serious stress, therefore, it must be durable.