How to cut a hole for a faucet in the sink

Drilling a hole for a faucet in a stainless steel sink

A diagram of the approximate dimensions of a kitchen sink.

There are a few proven ways to drill a straight hole in stainless steel. It should be noted immediately that you can not make any exit under the faucet in the already installed sanitary ware, because of the support for the countertop, there is a probability that the plumbing will crack. Before starting the work, turn the sink upside down so that all its edges rest on the table surface, and only then start the work.

If it is possible to purchase or rent a special cutter for making holes, to carry out the work will not be difficult. First of all you need to make the initial hole with a drill and a 10 mm drill bit. Then the cutter screw is inserted and with the help of 2 wrenches tightened, so it turns out that the metal is squeezed from 2 sides and pressed by the method of the press. Diameter may vary depending on the type of torch used. If you can not buy a special device, you can resort to other methods.

So, in order to make an outlet for communications of the desired diameter in the stainless steel sink without the use of special tools, you will need the following tools and materials:

To match the diameter of the norm, you must first make a circle of mounting tape of the required size and shape. The circle you cut out should be affixed to the chosen spot for the faucet and circled with a marker so that you can later saw a level hole. Besides, it is necessary to mark the center to make the initial hole with a core punch. The tip of the core puller should be directed to the center of the circle from the mounting tape and lightly tap to punch the start hole. If you have a drill, you can drill with it. Next, the initial hole must be enlarged with a circular file to the previously marked borders.

Simply drilling outlets for the faucet in the stainless steel sink is not enough, because the edges can get crooked, and then aligning them will be very difficult. After you get the outlet under the mixer of the required diameter, you need to carefully sand the edges of the cut, then you can proceed to installation. To prevent further oxidation of the metal, the edges of the fresh cut must be treated with sealant. After it hardens, you can install the sink.

I’m not a fan of steel sinks. they look strange, very dirty, in addition, I do not like thin things, I like solid. )

But a fact is a fact. nowadays most kitchen sinks are made of steel.

How quickly and easily make a hole for the faucet in this sink?

For this you need two special devices. cobalt drills and a punching tool.

A regular drill bit won’t pick up a sink, wouldn’t dream of it!

You need a special drill bit with the addition of cobalt.

Alternatives suggest that if there is no special drill, you can punch a primary hole with a large nail or screw, putting something flat wooden bottom. the resulting hole can be drilled with a regular drill:

Do not forget that there are cheap sinks of thin metal. such are much easier to drill, punch, etc.п. Better sinks have stronger metal, and it’s a hell of a thing to drill a lot of holes and bite out, plus the risk of the drill bit popping out and scratching the sink is very high. Buy a hole punch and make it quick and good.

On the package of drills there is such a sign with a sink. it means that they are suitable for drilling sinks:

The cutter consists of two parts. a die and a knife, connected by a bolt:

The cranes come with a special triangular adapter-amplifier. It is not necessary if the tap is placed in a countertop or a thick sink (cast iron, earthenware or sintered stone), but for thin steel sinks it is necessary to use it.

In my example, it fits under the sink the only way possible, put it in, trace the circle with a marker:

Next, you need to find the center of the circle and with an automatic or regular puncher to make a small dent, otherwise the drill may come off and the hole will not turn out exactly in the center:

Next, we drill with the smallest cobalt drill bit:

Next I drilled with an intermediate size and then with the main gauge! )

We put the cutter so that the wide part is at the bottom, and the narrow part with the knife is on the side where the faucet will be:

And we turn it with a wrench! You’re going to need the force.

Once again, you will need cobalt drills and a hole punch.

Cobalt drills are available in hardware stores, cheaper to buy a set than one drill, parting tool less common, I have it firm KWB, but in Ikea sells a set of pipe cutter and parting tool, which costs two times cheaper than my one parting tool (part number: 285.121.00).

Dillet 35 mm, the hole turns out 36 mm, a drill for a bolt at 10 mm, but it does not necessarily have to be cobalt, you can, for example, drilled to 8 mm cobalt and drilled to 10 mm ordinary (but sharp).

Thank you kind man for the advice! Made a perfect hole the other day with an IKEA pipe cutter.

I’ve never seen any notches on sale here, but I don’t see any difficulty in drilling in stainless steel. Yeah, it’s a little more ductile than regular steel, but a well-sharpened drill bit isn’t likely to get in the way. It was necessary to drill holes in steel pipes f40mm for this I bought a bimetal drill bit krasnodar.vseinstrumentiicheskaya-40mm-11-01-062 / hole of course not as ideal as a nipple, but she has a lot more can drill)))

I always drill all stainless steel sinks with regular drill bits.Rarely seen without a hole for the mixer. That’s why there is no punching tool yet.On the contour of the proposed hole first 2-2,5 mm then either 4 or 5. And a little file to not damage the flexible riser when installing.

But your way saves time, that’s a fact If I’m going to do this kind of sink all the time, I’ll only do it your way

It’s not my way. Ikea also sold such drill bits in the kitchen department! )

What do you use to drill “stone” sinks?? They are made of some kind of resin and powder, as I understand it.

I blunted the drill bit and bit while I was sawing a hole for a faucet! )

But, of course, that sink is much prettier than stainless steel. Probably more practical, too.

“yours” in the sense of the one you’ve shown. Rarely needed but a good way to go.Often a fostner drill comes with stone sinks.That’s what I use to drill with. Sometimes they’re blunt, though. So it’s worth taking away if you get a sharp one.Sometimes the stone sinks already have a hole drilled in them. I use a mallet and a file to straighten it out a bit.

That’s not my way. Ikea sold those in the kitchen department! )

What do you use to drill stone sinks?? They are made of some kind of resin and powder, I understand.

I blunted the drill bit and the crown while I was sawing a hole in it for the faucet! )

But, of course, such a sink is much more beautiful than stainless steel. And probably more practical.

I want to try this and for particle board will work and sink found it on ali

I drilled with this chipboard when I had nothing handy. it worked! )

Might work for stone sinks. it is, after all, a stone nozzle. )

But for particle board is better to use drill bits on metal or wood.

I am embarrassed to ask then all disks as in the photo are designed for stone and brick? as long as they have a bit) a link to the drill bit…harpness/32320233857.I could be wrong of course but I think particleboard will drill better than drill bits (which burn particleboard). Because of the small divorce of the teeth)

You did not say that it is for metal, and I was drilling a chipboard drill bit for concrete, and decided that since it was a stone shells, and the drill bit should be on the stone. )

Unfortunately, I will not be able to check it anymore. with this crisis and collapse, I’m unlikely to buy another stone sink.

I am equipping a country house now. I took myself there IKEA steel sink. the largest inexpensive got on sale. )

Congratulations on your purchase) in the photo shank is not for pea) Sometimes you have to drill wood chipboard and stone sinks and sometimes iron. I’m thinking of ways to increase the drilling speed.The step drill, as I understand from the video, is not the answer. (The edge is not flat, but may be useful in other cases) Crowns on any need new under the outlets in the wall panels are often drilled, stupid became so I study with soldering, I think they will live longer

Live a long time and go to Ikea !I didn’t know that, but I’ll take note ))

The worst thing was when we returned the cabinets and sink (unopened) a year and a half after the purchase, when all deadlines have passed. The full price was refunded. 20 thousand rubles!

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In the Soviet Union, such an approach to the customer is unthinkable.

The main thing is not to work in Ikea.I waited more than two months for the kitchen assembly money). The customer pays for the assembly in the Assembler works in Sweden (if I’m not mistaken, they have a head office there)

I do all Ikea furniture myself, especially kitchens. I do not trust our assemblers! )

As for your situation. assembly in fact it’s a contract?

You don’t work for Ikea, but for a third-party firm, and this firm already provides services to Ikea?

Most likely the Swedes paid on time, and our miserable bastards love to squeeze money from working people and twist a couple of months in the bank, feeding fairy tales, and then return and embezzle the interest.

I used to assemble a lot of different furniture from Ikea.And privately. and from the company. Maybe this furniture is not so difficult especially except for the kitchens.Sometimes I have to adjust the kitchen to fit the size. Countertops, cabinets. Not everyone has a tool.There are a couple of clients who have only this furniture.As I understand it, the company that hired me is domestic. Provides services for assembling furniture. I think about 8-10% charges the client. I’m 4% of the cost of furniture. Plus, I have to pay for the extra work separately.Almost every sneeze had to be written down on paper, I thought everything was serious. Like no more than 3 days to assemble the kitchen, etc.The price for services is printed in such a quality that it feels like a thousandth copy of the original. (Besides, every copy was photocopied) NONE in the firm dared to retype the price list) Why does the firm charge 50% of the amount is unclear. Nothing is solved. All questions are redirected to the client. And the client “I do not remember, it was bought a long time ago and not by me, and the one who bought it no longer” And assembler utmost. Fortunately all ended well) Why they send money to Sweden as they told me I do not know. The money was paid and okay.

Thank you kind man for the advice! The other day I made a perfect hole with an IKEA punching tool.

I haven’t seen a drill bit on sale here, but I don’t see any difficulty in drilling in stainless steel. It’s a bit more ductile than normal steel, but a well sharpened drill bit can’t do that. I had to drill a hole in the steel pipes f40mm for this I bought a bimetal drill bit krasnodar.vseinstrumentiicheskaya-40mm-11-01-062/ hole certainly not as ideal as from the punching machine, but she has a lot more that you can drill)))

I always drill all stainless steel sinks with regular drill bits. Rarely seen without a hole for the mixer. That’s why I don’t have one yet. On the contour of the proposed hole first 2-2,5 mm then either 4 or 5. And a little file to not damage the flexible cord when installing.

But your way saves time is a fact If always such sinks, then only your way

This is not my way. in Ikea and sold such prick drill bits in the kitchen department! )

And what do you use to drill “stone” sinks?? They are made of some kind of resin and powder, as I understand it.

I blunted the drill bit and bit while sawing a hole in such under the faucet! )

But, of course, such a sink is much more beautiful than stainless steel. And probably more practical.

“Your” in the sense of the one you demonstrated) Tapered tape costs in the store 700 or so. It’s rarely needed, but it’s a good way. Often stone sinks come with a fostner bit. That’s what I use to drill with. Sometimes they’re blunt, though. So it’s worth picking up if you get a sharp one. Sometimes there’s a hole already drilled in the stone sinks. You can tap it gently with a hammer and smooth it out a bit with a file.

That’s not my way. Ikea also sold such drill bits in the kitchen department! )

What do you drill “stone” sinks with?? They’re made of some kind of resin and powder, as I understand it.

I dulled the drill bit and bit while sawing a hole for the faucet in this one! )

But, of course, it’s a much prettier shell than stainless steel. Probably more practical.

I want to try this it’s good for particle board and sink I found it on ali

Dismantling plumbing fixtures

In the household there may be a situation where you have to put a new bathtub. To do this, the old one has to be dismantled as follows:

First of all disconnect the floor trap and overflow pipes. Usually the latter is connected to the bathtub by the overflow grate or by a clamping nut that tightens the flange and the grate. Floor trap can be connected to the bath by the same two ways or a third. with a coupling bolt, screwed from the side of the drain grate;

If the bathtub is quite old, then the connection can be elementary stuck, as a result of which it is difficult to unscrew the clamp nut, and the drain grate is almost impossible to remove. The following may help here. Many drain grids are made of soft non-ferrous metals, which allows you to easily saw them with a hacksaw for metal, if the blade of the hacksaw is larger than the cells of the grid, or gently knock them down with a chisel and hammer;

then make side cuts from the inside of the grid, with the distance between them should not exceed 1/4 the length of the circumference of the grid;

after sawing, cut the funnel by tilting the blade. The procedure can be performed not too carefully, without fear of damaging the enamel coating, unless you intend to use the bathtub in the future;

After sawing take a smooth chisel with a width of no more than 100 mm, put it at the junction of the funnel and the tub, directing it tangentially to the latter, and soft blows with a hammer to knock out sawn part. Then use a hammer and chisel to bend the sawed edges of the remainder of the drain. After that, the drain should easily pull out of the opening of the bathtub;

You only need to disconnect the overflow pipe and remove the discharge pipe from the sewer faucet, after which the faucet must be closed. There is a metal grounding strip at the bottom of the product, which is knocked out of the eyelet.

As a rule, the edges of the bathtub are finished with tile or make a thin cement screed. To carefully remove ceramic tiles, use a wide chisel, and remove cement residue with a chisel.

If there are reinforced concrete bases under the bathtub, remove it from them. If they are cast-iron legs, the bathtub can be removed together with the legs or, by unscrewing them, remove them separately.

Although the removal of the bath takes quite a lot of time and effort, everyone can do it, regardless of the presence or absence of experience.


If it is necessary to remove the sink, this is done as follows:

First it is recommended to shut off the water, then unscrew the faucet taps and make sure that no water is leaking through the control valve;

Then disconnect it from the sewage system, and if there is a faucet, also from the water supply;

Under the siphon should be placed a bucket or other container, so that the accumulated water when disconnecting the elements of the plumbing is not on the floor;

then unscrew the trap cup, free it from water, clean the dirt, temporarily cover the hole with some cloth and screw the cup;

Then start unscrewing the drain in the sink. On the outer side of the bottom is a wide nut, with which it is connected to the washbasin. Usually it is not difficult to unscrew it by hand, holding the siphon and turning the nut counterclockwise;

Then disconnect the drain pipe from the trap, for which unscrew the lock nut, which is located at the top of the trap (where the drain and odour trap connect), lift the drain and take the trap;

Remove the nuts and the wedge-shaped spacer washer before removing the drain and the seal from the hole in the basin. The main part of the work is done, left to remove from the socket sewer discharge pipe with a siphon;

Then you can proceed to the removal of the faucet. It’s pretty simple. Under it in the bottom of the sink is a nut, which should be unscrewed, and then disconnect the hoses and easily remove the mixer. Disconnecting the sink depends on the type of fixtures.

The wash basin can be mounted with combined supports, on a pedestal or directly to the wall. In the first case, it must first be detached from the fastenings, which are usually at the sides of the basin floor.If there is a sink attachment to the wall, you need to remove the decorative plugs and unscrew the nuts under the washbasin.

If there is no floor support, the sink must be held, otherwise it will fall off after unscrewing the nuts.


To remove the old toilet bowl does not need to call a plumber. you can handle yourself. This is done as follows:

Turn off the water, which requires closing the central valve or a valve separate pipe to the toilet and bath. If the valve is old, it sometimes happens that water oozes even after it is closed. In this case, it is advisable to open the taps in the kitchen or bathroom to relieve the pressure, and to put a large rag under the outlet of the pipe;

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After closing the valve, empty the cistern. Also check and turn off the accessories such as water heaters, air conditioning equipment, etc. д;

Now begin dismantling the old toilet bowl: from the cistern and then from the water supply, unscrew the soft rubber or reinforced liners. Iron pipe. saw off to free up the old toilet;

A piece of pipe in the toilet bowl should be unscrewed at the first connection, where you can then make a new flexible attachment. When removing the toilet and installing a new one, it is recommended to completely change the supply line, even if the old looks reliable;

Remove the toilet from the floor. If the attachment to the floor is carried out by traditional bolts, then there should not be any difficulties, but in a situation with a concrete screed a hammer and chisel will help.

If the plumbing is not intended to be reused, to speed up the work, you can break the mounts, trying not to touch the main structure. However, you must do it very carefully, because the flying splinters can get into the eyes.

How to drill a hole in an artificial stone sink

Sinks made of artificial stone are usually sold in one piece, that is, without pre-drilled holes for the mixer. Some firms offer such a service, but sometimes you have to take the drill and drill in your own hands. In such a case, it is extremely important to know exactly how to drill, and what speeds to set on the drill. About these and other nuances will tell the master plumber.

How to work with different types of artificial stone

There is no clear definition of artificial stone, and it includes several types of material at once:

Porcelain stoneware. The most durable of all, not afraid of high and low temperatures, as well as minor mechanical damage. An ordinary drill will not “take it”: only a drill bit (Forstner cutter) or a diamond-tipped drill bit (or other carbide) will cope with its density.

Note! During the work it is necessary periodically to “cool down” the surface with water, and the drill should work at low RPM. 250-350 rpm

Acrylic. the easiest material to work with, as its density is minimal compared to others. Conventional metal or wood drill bits can be used with it, e.g. feather type or the same Forstner cutter. The standard 35 mm hole under the faucet should be drilled at low-to-medium speed (the material is very pliable, and it can be cut even with a jigsaw, but it is difficult to achieve a neat result). A large amount of “plastic” chips and a characteristic odor. the consequence of a high plastic content.Agglomerate. Material with a medium density. It is not as difficult to work with as porcelain, but requires more accuracy than acrylic. To drill holes in it, it is best to use the same cutters as in the case of porcelain stoneware.Order of workSo, having an idea of what material we have in our hands, and having the necessary tools, we can proceed directly to drilling holes in the sink:

Varieties of modern sinks

The two main variants of kitchen sinks are in the greatest demand today. products made of stainless steel and ceramic. Manufacturers do not rush to make holes in them, leaving this work entirely on the shoulders of retailers and end users.

Important! If you wish you can make an agreement right in the store for drilling a hole of the necessary size. The cost of such manipulation is quite acceptable, you only need to specify the location, diameter, to make payment. As a result, you get a finished product with designed places for installing faucets and taps.

It would seem that the problem is solved, but in practice there are often situations that do not coincide with the plans of consumers. For example, when ordering a kitchen of non-standard dimensions, or the kitchen equipment itself, in case the mistress of the house is left-handed, the hole in her new sink is located on the right side, which is incredibly inconvenient for her.

Before you cut a hole in the sink for the faucet, first install it, take a good look, and only then decide where to make seats for the sink. If you still decided to do everything yourself, then use the following useful recommendations:

  • Perform all manipulations with the product directly before mounting it on a fixed place. this will prevent premature deterioration and deformation of the object.
  • Place the sink horizontally on a wooden base, then drill a hole with a special drill bit.
  • if you use a punching hammer and a hammer, it is enough to punch the fixed bowl manually using special nozzles that have been pre-matched to the diameter of holes in the faucet or mixer in the new sink.
  • If you want to use a special design punch, note that it works by the extrusion method. As a rule, such a device consists of two nozzles and a threaded pin, a pressing washer and a tap. It is enough to set in place the pin from the outside, screw the washer, perform tightening-pressing.
  • The use of a special drill involves the use of a tapered drill bit, which works according to the simplest principle.
  • If you buy a mixer tap with large-diameter taps, it is necessary to prepare a special seating socket. Such a problem can be solved in two ways. you can order a socket in the store or drill a few holes around the circumference with a smaller diameter.

How to install a faucet on a stainless steel sink

Repair of the bathroom involves a huge amount of work associated with the installation of sanitary equipment. Particular attention needs to be paid to the process of installing taps and faucets.

If you do not know how to install a faucet on a stainless steel sink, you have two options for action. The first. go to specialists who will perform all manipulations for you, but you have to look for a good master and pay money for his services. The second option involves independent installation, for which you need to read the information in detail in this article. Here will be set out the information about the features of sanitary equipment and its installation.

Two types of sinks

Two types of kitchen sinks are the most popular right now:

Both with stainless steel and porcelain stoneware, the manufacturers do not rush with drilling holes, leaving these details to retailers.

For your information! At the sink sales stores it is possible to negotiate about drilling holes. Price manipulation affordable, you specify the diameter and location, pay and get a finished product with mounting points for taps, faucets.

The problem is solved and we can close the topic at this point, but there are situations that fundamentally change the original plans. All the more so, the desire to do everything with your own hands, and the pleasure that you get from a well-done job is incomparable.

Do-it-yourself work

Simple things can turn the world upside down. The initial desire to install the faucet on the right side in the corner, will be nullified if your spouse is left-handed.

On a side note! In the kitchen, as nowhere else, great importance is given to beauty, functionality and ergonomics. It’s very inconvenient for the left-handed people to open the tap on the right with their left hand. Water gets on your hand.

We recommend that you first place the sink in place, take a closer look, and then decide and choose places for sockets. You have opted for the decision to do the work yourself?

  • All work with the product perform before installing it on a stationary place, with these simple actions you prevent deformation of the object and premature deterioration;
  • Place the sink horizontally on a wooden base. Drill a small hole with a metal drill bit, just 5-6 mm to determine the center of the circle;

Tip! If you use punches and a hammer, the above manipulation is not necessary.

  • And then there are three ways to choose:
  • Hammer and punch. Here everything is simple, the fixed bowl is punched with special nozzles manually, the nozzle is initially selected under the diameter of the hole in the sink under the faucet or faucet;
  • Specially designed punch. This is a mechanical toy, which uses the extrusion method. Such a punch consists of a threaded pin and two nozzles, a tap and a press washer with a wrench head. Putting a pin in the hole from the outside, screwing a washer with a head, you use a wrench to tighten-press. The result of this manipulation. a hole in the stainless steel sink for the faucet;
  • The third way is a special drill, called a carrot. The name has stuck so much that even on the factory packaging of the product other than a drill bit carrot it is not called. The drill is represented by a cone, with a diameter of the cutting edge from 6 to 32 and even 38 mm. We will not describe the principle of using the drill, everything is clear.

Into the piggy bank! Sometimes the consumer’s choice stops at mixers with jars of large diameter. Sink waste and trap with a large hole requires a large seat. Then there are several ways out: the first is to order a hole in the store, the second is to drill a few holes of smaller diameter around the circumference. Then simply join them together by removing the inner circle with a chisel. True, it requires accuracy and precision of movement.

With what to drill a hole in a stainless steel sink. we’ve disassembled, let’s move on to the stones.

Stone and under a stone

A much more interesting topic is the drilling of seatings in stone sinks.

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Please note! Simple manipulation. working with a drill bit. in practice is not too easy. Drill bit with pobedite insertion for this work is contraindicated, it’s not so much drilling as shear, shears material. The drill for metal is not bad, but low revolutions of the drill itself is necessary (ideally, it is better to use a hand drill). Burning of the edges occurs at high revolutions.

  • During drilling, the material can heat up quickly, but this is difficult to control. Drilling a hole in an artificial stone sink is best done with a fine drill bit. We work all around the perimeter of the future cavity;
  • The partitions between the holes are recommended to “pass” in two ways:
  • We notch the strokes with an electric soldering iron, followed by beating out the plug with a hammer;
  • The jigsaw is not bad for sawing the material. Although this process is longer, the edge is the smoothest;
  • Grinding the circumference of the hole is made with a round abrasive nozzle for the entire circumference. If you do not have one on hand, use a regular round file.

Diamond-coated drill bits are rare guests in the household.

To the clipboard! You can also drill a hole in an artificial stone sink with a diamond drill bit if you have one.

Inform! In some bowls there are special marks. These are places where you hit with a targeted hammer, you can punch a hole. It must be done with care, the marks themselves are marked with paper stickers, which can slip off during transportation. Punching a different point can only destroy the material.

A qualitatively carried out work is a guarantee of durability.

Drilling holes in ceramic tile

There are two options for making holes in ceramic tiles:

A simple and inexpensive way to cut a hole, both round and in different configurations, using a metal hacksaw and a diamond wire.

  • Use a felt-tip pen to draw a circle on the tile with the required diameter.
  • Use a ceramic drill bit to make the initial hole inside the circle, insert the string.
  • Assemble the hacksaw, pull the string and cut a circle of the desired diameter.

For drilling holes in tile and glass special drill bits are used. They look like a sharpened spade. Recommended operating mode for them at low rpm, up to 800 rpm.

Particular attention should be paid to the radial run-out of the electric drill chuck, which occurs with increased wear of the bearing.

Tile may split if the drill bit beats too hard.

It is also possible to use a pobedite drill bit for concrete and a peorator in drilling mode.

In order to cut a hole in the ceramic tiles for the faucet of the desired diameter, drill a hole with a drill 3. 5 mm thick in a circle. After that it is necessary to remove the crosspieces.

To even out the surface, it’s necessary to remove the remaining jagged edges with a tile cutter and fit the diameter to the desired size. After gluing the tiles on the pipe, a decorative deflector is installed, which will close the uneven edges.

Installing the kitchen sink

Kitchen sinks also differ in type:

  • Overhead, that is, mounted on top of the cabinet;
  • Flush-mounted, recessed into the worktop;
  • Built-in, integrated into or directly under the worktop.

Installation of sinks of the latter type should be entrusted to professionals, because they are often one piece with the countertop.

Mounting an overhead sink

Overhead sinks are mounted directly to a properly sized kitchen cabinet. The ends of the basin are then placed around the edge of the cabinet. First it is worth trying on the sink and make a marking of mounting holes, in the end face of the cabinet screw self-tapping screws, on which the kitchen sink will be attached. Previously, it is worth to fix the faucet and siphon, which after installation will only need to be connected. When assembling do not forget about sealing strips that are located between the countertop and sink body. They play the role of a sealant to prevent leakage under the sink.

Inset sink installation

Nowadays you can find sinks with two bowls. They are installed in the same way as the ordinary ones. However, you will need a special siphon with two outlets. For a recessed sink, it is necessary to cut a hole of suitable size. Please note that at least 6 cm must be set back from the worktop’s front edge and at least 4 cm from the back edge. We enclose the sink to a table top and make a marking, for this purpose we outline the sink, from the resulting contour step back 12 mm, it is on the second line and will be cut. Use an electric jigsaw. The end of the kerf is dipped sealant, it will keep the countertop from moisture and further swelling. The trap is fastened to the sink, the mixer and the water inlet are connected. The special fixing feet are fastened to the bottom. After that, the entire structure is installed in place, the pipes are connected to the supply line, the siphon is connected. That’s all, you can check the quality of work.

Installation errors and how to avoid them

When installing it yourself, you should avoid common mistakes:

  • Hose kinks.
  • Leaking water after the process is finished. To eliminate this problem, rubber gaskets, linen seals and FUM tape are used.
  • Excessive tightening of the nuts at the joints of the pipe and hose. Here the gaskets will also help, and the connection works should be done manually, slightly tightening with a wrench.

Following the above recommendations will prevent incorrect operation and premature failure of the equipment.

How to make a hole for a faucet in a stainless steel sink?

There are several proven options how to cut a hole in the sink without a hole for the mixer tap, made of stainless steel. Do not make these holes in pre-installed plumbing fixtures, as they can crack due to the support on the countertop. If available, rent or purchase a special cutter to make your job easier.

To make the hole, follow the instructions:

  • Before you begin, turn the sink upside down so that it is resting with all its edges on the table surface.
  • Make a circle of mounting tape of the required shape and size, attach it to the selected location, trace it with a marker.
  • Mark the center to make it easier to make the hole with the puncher.
  • Aim the tip of the puncher into the center of the circle made of mounting tape, with smooth tapping movements punch the initial hole.
  • Using a round file, enlarge the pilot hole to the previously planned dimensions.
  • Sand the edges of the file carefully to get the exit of the desired diameter.
  • Treat the edges of the fresh saw cut with sealant.
  • You can install a sink.

How to avoid mistakes

Suppose you decide to make a hole with a drill and cutter.

Often professionals make a hole when the sink is already installed in the countertop. This solution has only one advantage. the edge on the front side will be flat. And it has many more disadvantages: you can scratch the stone, damage the sink, break off the edge and so on.

So it is better to drill the hole from the back. But there is a chance that the hole from the outside will have an uneven appearance. However, in this place there will be a faucet, which will cover the irregularities of the edge. There is no risk of damaging the front side of the sink.

There are two fundamentally different methods of work. The first involves working with a drill, while the second involves knocking out the loose casting plugs provided by the design. Consider each of them in order.

Making a hole in the sink made of artificial stone with a drill step by step:

Some of our faux-stone sinks have molded plugs that can be knocked out during assembly. Usually they are marked in color on the front side. First place the sink in its place in the worktop, but do not fix it.

Then you need to find the right tool and hammer the plugs with a hard blow with a hammer. A punch with a diameter of 8 mm is suitable for this role, but not a screwdriver. It is necessary to knock out the cork only from above: that is, from the front side. Use the rasp to smooth out the uneven edges of the hole.

This way you can make a hole for the faucet.

  • The center is marked and a circle is drawn.
  • Using a drill along the length of the circle is drilled holes, the distance between which is 4 mm.
  • To prevent cracking during piercing, fix the sink firmly.

If there is a need to increase the radius of the hole, you need to draw another circle of the desired size. All from the same front side along the circumference area are made cuts at a distance of 4 mm. Using a puncher or chisel remove unnecessary parts.

Nowadays quite often there is a question how to drill a hole in a granite sink. This circumstance is connected with the fact that in most cases, when you buy a specified sanitary ware, it lacks mounting holes needed to install a mixer or flush switch.

Of course, the easiest option would be to help professionals, although by following the basic recommendations, this procedure can be performed by yourself.