In the manufacture of wooden products, there is often a need for horizontal drilling with a drill. Simply holding the drill with your hands is very difficult to achieve perfect accuracy. To improve this process, you can make a simple wooden stop.
With such a simple device, you can drill holes Not only on the edges of wide boards, but also on the ends. It is clear that it is impossible to drill such holes on a drilling machine.
Such a stop can be used for drilling dowel holes when assembling furniture from joinery boards or slabs. Making dowels post how to make a round tenon dowel. If you use a drill-milling cutter, you can make nests for classic flat tenons. How can you make the spikes yourself post we make spikes with a hand mill.
The main part of the device is a wooden platform, to which a drill is attached with a wooden clamp. The drill will be installed in an inverted position. We squeeze the parts of the clamp together with a clamp and drill a hole with a feather or a Faustner drill. I personally rarely use a perk, drills Faustner give a more accurate and clean hole.
Most drills have a small cylindrical body immediately after the chuck. It is in this place that the drill will be fastened with a clamp. Accordingly, before starting work, it is necessary to measure the diameter of the cylindrical part of the drill. And what you see in the pictures has a diameter of 43 mm. The two parts of the clamp are pulled together by two through bolts. You can, of course, come up with another method of fastening, but with bolts it seems easier and more reliable.
A similar mounting method may be useful for the second device, article grinding drum.
An additional emphasis for the drill is made at the handle level. If the second stop is made, then the drill will walk when drilling.
Perhaps the most difficult moment of work is the exact centering along the axis of the drill. A ruler is attached to the work table to guide the entire attachment. The guide fence can be fixed permanently with self-tapping screws, or screwed with clamps as needed. If you need to drill several holes at regular intervals, then the bars of the required width are added to the ruler. If we take several bars of the same width, then we add one at a time, we will shift the drill at equal intervals, see the photo at the top of the article.
How to mount the drill horizontally. For manufacturing you need materials:
- Corner;
- Square;
- Bolts. 2 pcs;
- Nuts. 2 pcs.
The manufacturing process is as follows: two identical pieces are cut from the corner, a shelf is cut in half on one of them, a couple of holes must be drilled in the shelf.
Bolts are inserted into the holes and welded with a head to the corner. Then, combining the corners, they are welded together, holes are drilled in the lower corner for self-tapping screws. For rigidity, a piece of a square is welded to the structure, at the end of which you need to drill a hole for a self-tapping screw.
This is how the finished structure looks like.
The fixture is attached to the table with self-tapping screws.
We put the drill between the pins.
The drill presses with a plate and tightens with nuts.
Tighten the nuts firmly.
We put a nozzle in the cartridge and use.
Here is such a simple homemade drill holder you can do it yourself.
Greetings to everyone whose hands grow from the right place, as well as those who sympathize with them! This time I want to invite you to slightly improve the most common power tools that almost every artisan has. It’s about Electric Drill.
It seemed that you can still add to this instrument, in which they cram everything that is possible and not? Here you can drill with a hammer like a hammer drill, and adjust the speed (to which, by the way, there are many questions, but more on that next time), and a ruler for drilling to a given depth, and so on. However, in a hand drill, unlike a drilling machine, there is one drawback. it is problematic to drill a strictly vertical or horizontal hole, it is difficult to control the perpendicularity in two planes. Surely many have come across such a situation when they had to ask someone to coordinate the position of the instrument up-down or left-right. For example, in order to embed the latches into the interior door, you need to drill a hole in the end of the canvas ø22mm. Strictly horizontal, and if drilling along the axis of the canvas is a matter of eye gauge, then with horizontalness, even the Drill on the conductor I managed to fill up the horizon.
What I bring to your attention to the ugliness is simply that you need to install two bubble levels on the Electric Drill. a linear for horizontal and circular for vertical drilling. I’ll make a reservation right away, the idea is not mine, but was read many years ago in some of the magazines. There it was simply proposed to screw the level to the instrument, which I myself did several times. I screwed the peephole removed from the level with electrical tape (yes, blue), slipping it under the edges of the sliver to match the axes. Then the tape was gradually erased, unwound and in the end the peephole was safely lost. That’s why I decided to make this device thoroughly.
For homemade products we will need: 1. Bubble levels. linear and circular 2. Drill 3. Chisel 4. Glue 5. Control level
The first step is to mark the window for setting the line level. The dimensions of the eye that I managed to get (from the plastic Vi-ko shield) ø8x25mm. Taking advantage of the fact that the axial is clearly visible on the plastic molding of the drill body, we dance from it in both directions by 4mm.
Structural elements
Studying photographs and drawings of racks for drills (home-made or factory-made), you can highlight the main structural elements inherent in all machines, without exception:
- Base-table top;
- Vertical guide;
- Drill mount;
- Lifting and lowering mechanism;
- Handle.
The base lying at the base gives stability to the structure and dampens vibration from the working tool. It contains fasteners for the rest of the rack elements, pressures and clamps for parts. It is allowed to leave holes at the base for through drilling of parts.
Metal or wood (solid wood, plywood) are suitable as the material for the countertop. To combat vibration, it is NOT superfluous to add a layer of dense rubber under the base. The base should be massive, the minimum size in terms of 600 x 600 x 30 millimeters. Holes can be made in it for attachment to a workbench. This will give additional stability when working.
Guide. This is a vertical rail that mounts on the base and holds the drill mount. Rails are metal (pipe, channel) or wooden (bar, plywood). In SEPARATE models (usually metal), the guide is combined with the lifting and lowering mechanism. Removable rails are installed on a bolted connection, a rigid connection is made by welding. The donor of the finished base with the guide will be the tripod of a failed photo enlarger or microscope.
The drill is mounted on clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. As in the case of the rail, the mounts can be designed removable for different types of drills. The handle is placed on the side or on top of the structure, with its help, the position of the cutter is adjusted to the frame.
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In the manufacture of wooden products, there is often a need for horizontal drilling with a drill. Simply holding the drill with your hands is very difficult to achieve perfect accuracy. To improve this process, you can make a simple wooden stop.
With such a simple device, you can drill holes Not only on the edges of wide boards, but also on the ends. It is clear that it is impossible to drill such holes on a drilling machine.
Such a stop can be used for drilling dowel holes when assembling furniture from joinery boards or slabs. Making dowels post how to make a round tenon dowel. If you use a drill-milling cutter, you can make nests for classic flat tenons. How can you make the spikes yourself post we make spikes with a hand mill.
The main part of the device is a wooden platform, to which a drill is attached with a wooden clamp. The drill will be installed in an inverted position. We squeeze the parts of the clamp together with a clamp and drill a hole with a feather or a Faustner drill. I personally rarely use a perk, drills Faustner give a more accurate and clean hole.
Most drills have a small cylindrical body immediately after the chuck. It is in this place that the drill will be fastened with a clamp. Accordingly, before starting work, it is necessary to measure the diameter of the cylindrical part of the drill. And what you see in the pictures has a diameter of 43 mm. The two parts of the clamp are pulled together by two through bolts. You can, of course, come up with another method of fastening, but with bolts it seems easier and more reliable.
A similar mounting method may be useful for the second device, article grinding drum.
An additional emphasis for the drill is made at the handle level. If the second stop is made, then the drill will walk when drilling.
Perhaps the most difficult moment of work is the exact centering along the axis of the drill. A ruler is attached to the work table to guide the entire attachment. The guide fence can be fixed permanently with self-tapping screws, or screwed with clamps as needed. If you need to drill several holes at regular intervals, then the bars of the required width are added to the ruler. If we take several bars of the same width, then we add one at a time, we will shift the drill at equal intervals, see the photo at the top of the article.
Drilling machine drives
When drafting a do-it-yourself drill holder assembly project, you should decide on the type of lifting and lowering mechanism that serves to feed the drill vertically to the part. It is he who is the main characteristic of the machine. The following mechanisms are distinguished:
- Spring loaded;
- Articulated;
- Screw;
- Rope;
- Rack-based.
Spring, spring-hinged and hinged installations are easiest to assemble with your own hands. Drawings of a drilling machine from a spring-type drill suggest placing the spring either directly in the handle or at the base of the carriage in Special grooves. In the absence of additional clamps, it will be impossible to perform milling with such machines, since they require constant manual control of the drill position.
Screw mechanisms work on the principle of the Jacks of the same name. At their core. A vertically positioned, threaded pipe that can rotate around its axis. The pipe contains a nut welded to the drill holder. When the pipe rotates, the nut and the tool holder change their position. For additional stability of the tool during operation, the mount is also allowed to supply a clutch.
The carriage cable drive consists of a tightly stretched metal cable, a spool welded with a tool holder, and support bows at the upper and lower ends of the guide. The metal cable is wound around the reel and stretched over the shackles in such a way that the reel does NOT slide down under the weight of the equipment. The ends of the cable are wound into loops and remain on the bed. It is recommended to choose the length of the cable with a margin so that it remains possible to use one mechanism on guides of different sizes.
Purpose and features
The drill holder (or screwdriver) working on the principle of vertical drilling is used to perform such technological operations as:
- Precise drilling of holes to a given depth, their boring and finishing;
- Chamfering, forming indentations and grooves (countersinking)
- Tapping (if the power of the drill and the strength of the stand structure allows).
However, it should be understood that such devices do not have a bearing capacity comparable to factory equipment. Therefore, drilling hard material with great force is not recommended.
How to mount the drill horizontally. For manufacturing you need materials:
- Corner;
- Square;
- Bolts. 2 pcs;
- Nuts. 2 pcs.
The manufacturing process is as follows: two identical pieces are cut from the corner, a shelf is cut in half on one of them, a couple of holes must be drilled in the shelf.
Bolts are inserted into the holes and welded with a head to the corner. Then, combining the corners, they are welded together, holes are drilled in the lower corner for self-tapping screws. For rigidity, a piece of a square is welded to the structure, at the end of which you need to drill a hole for a self-tapping screw.
This is how the finished structure looks like.
The fixture is attached to the table with self-tapping screws.
We put the drill between the pins.
The drill presses with a plate and tightens with nuts.
Tighten the nuts firmly.
We put a nozzle in the cartridge and use.
Here is such a simple homemade drill holder you can do it yourself.
Greetings to everyone whose hands grow from the right place, as well as those who sympathize with them! This time I want to invite you to slightly improve the most common power tools that almost every artisan has. It’s about Electric Drill.
It seemed that you can still add to this instrument, in which they cram everything that is possible and not? Here you can drill with a hammer like a hammer drill, and adjust the speed (to which, by the way, there are many questions, but more on that next time), and a ruler for drilling to a given depth, and so on. However, in a hand drill, unlike a drilling machine, there is one drawback. it is problematic to drill a strictly vertical or horizontal hole, it is difficult to control the perpendicularity in two planes. Surely many have come across such a situation when they had to ask someone to coordinate the position of the instrument up-down or left-right. For example, in order to embed the latches into the interior door, you need to drill a hole in the end of the canvas ø22mm. Strictly horizontal, and if drilling along the axis of the canvas is a matter of eye gauge, then with horizontalness, even the Drill on the conductor I managed to fill up the horizon.
What I bring to your attention to the ugliness is simply that you need to install two bubble levels on the Electric Drill. a linear for horizontal and circular for vertical drilling. I’ll make a reservation right away, the idea is not mine, but was read many years ago in some of the magazines. There it was simply proposed to screw the level to the instrument, which I myself did several times. I screwed the peephole removed from the level with electrical tape (yes, blue), slipping it under the edges of the sliver to match the axes. Then the tape was gradually erased, unwound and in the end the peephole was safely lost. That’s why I decided to make this device thoroughly.
For homemade products we will need: 1. Bubble levels. linear and circular 2. Drill 3. Chisel 4. Glue 5. Control level
The first step is to mark the window for setting the line level. The dimensions of the eye that I managed to get (from the plastic Vi-ko shield) ø8x25mm. Taking advantage of the fact that the axial is clearly visible on the plastic molding of the drill body, we dance from it in both directions by 4mm.
Assembling the frame on the ceiling
Before fixing PVC panels to the ceiling, it is necessary to build a special structure. When choosing a frame, they take into account their own financial capabilities, installation conditions and personal preferences of property owners. Here the build quality depends on the horizontalness of the plastic surface and the general appearance of the ceiling structure.
The process of how to fix the plastic panels to the ceiling is simple, and you have to spend more time assembling the frame. If the rough base of the ceiling is not quite even, you cannot do without the construction of the lathing. Read also: “How to make a ceiling lathing for plastic panels. Step-by-step guide, expert advice”.
When assembling the frame, you need to Pay attention to a number of points:
- Metal profiles or wooden bars, thanks to which PVC panels will be fastened to the ceiling, should be mounted perpendicular to the direction of installation of the plates.
- When the laying of communications is planned, for example, electrical wiring, then the frame must be located at a distance of 10.12 centimeters from the ceiling base.
- First, determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure their height from ceiling to floor. Having learned the minimum of them, this value is taken as the mark according to which the structure will be mounted. Then, along the perimeter of the room, a horizontal line is applied to the location of the lower part of the frame.
- To enhance the resistance of plastic to high humidity, you can use silicone sealant. It is squeezed out between profiles or bars when assembling the frame, but before fixing the PVC panels to the ceiling. It is necessary to pay special attention to the arrangement of the frame, since the quality of the finish and the future appearance of the structure after the completion of the installation depend on it.
Materials and tools
Before fixing plastic panels to the ceiling, you need to perform a number of preparatory measures. First of all, from the huge assortment of building materials available in specialized shopping centers, it is necessary to correctly choose high-quality plates that differ in parameter, colors and texture.
On sale Monochrome and multi-tone products are presented, the surface of which is:
- Glossy;
- Matte;
- Structured.
By their shape, the strips are divided into:
- Rectangular;
- Square.
Mirror plates are becoming more and more popular now, as well as panels, the appearance of which imitates stone or natural wood. A huge selection of materials allows you to design a coating that fits perfectly into the interior of the room. Getting started with such work as fixing panels to the ceiling, you need to have dowels, screws at your disposal, and to assemble the frame. Hangers and profiles.
The plating process cannot be performed without the following tools:
- Painting cord. It is required for marking;
- Metal square;
- Building level;
- Drill plus hammer or hammer drill;
- Screwdriver.
Before fixing PVC panels to the ceiling, you should decide on the type of frame, the distance between the rough base and the structure under construction, the location of the lighting fixtures and the direction of installation of the strips.
Pros and cons of plastic ceiling panels
This finishing option, such as fixing PVC panels to the ceiling, has many advantages and positive characteristics. Sheathing with this material allows you to level the base of the ceiling without plastering, as a result of which repair work will require much less financial and time costs.
Another major advantage of plastic decoration products. Moisture resistance. Due to this quality of polyvinyl chloride, the panels have proven themselves perfectly in rooms with constantly high levels of humidity, such as a bathroom and a toilet.
An important quality of plastic sheathing is the possibility of partial disassembly. For example, if it is necessary to repair the electrical wiring, it will be enough to remove several panels in a certain place. After the completion of the work, the plates are returned to their original place without any effort.
After attaching plastic panels to the ceiling, housewives do not need to take care of them in a special way, since it is enough to wipe them with a soft cloth or a sponge soaked in soapy water.
This method of decorating the ceiling surface has not only advantages, but also disadvantages. In the event of a fire in plastic products, which occurs at temperatures above 350 degrees, the material releases toxins that are extremely harmful to human health.
How to fix plastic panels to wooden battens
According to the technology, before attaching the plastic to the ceiling, a metal or wooden frame must be completely ready, the type of which depends on several factors. In dry rooms with a minimum level of humidity, where there are practically NO drafts, wooden bars or slats are usually used, since they are cheaper, and it is easier to assemble such a structure.
We collect a wooden crate, before fixing the panels to the ceiling, you need to follow certain rules:
- Dry tree must be treated with antiseptic compounds.
- The distance between adjacent slats or bars cannot exceed 40 centimeters.
- During the installation of the lathing, you need to constantly make adjustments, using small pieces of wood or chips, placing them under the throw. You can also pull on twine or painter’s thread to simplify the process.
- Before attaching the plastic to the ceiling, a special profile is mounted, which is a structure reminiscent of a plinth with a recess available along its entire length. The panel is attached to the crate with the side groove using nails, screws or staples. As for the side spike, then it is inserted into the recesses of the plinth.
- Further, the plates are installed in the same way to the end of the ceiling surface. There is a nuance in how to fix the last panel to the ceiling. The plastic should only be inserted into the frame and NOT fixed.
- At the final stage, a ceiling plinth is attached to the wooden lathing, which will close the gaps between the walls and panels. As a result, the ceiling takes on a finished look.
How to fix plastic panels to the ceiling. Installation instructions
Various materials are used to decorate the ceiling surface, but fixing plastic panels to the ceiling is considered one of the best options. High quality and a variety of textures allow you to use them in rooms of different purpose, including those with high humidity.
This finishing material differs in its low cost, stylish design, beautiful appearance, but before carrying out repairs yourself, it is important to figure out how to attach plastic panels to the ceiling.
Fastening PVC strips to a metal frame
The metal structure for how to attach plastic panels to the ceiling is erected in rooms where wooden lathing cannot be installed, since there is high humidity and constant drafts.
The installation of a metal profile consists of several main stages:
- The profile is attached with screws to the ceiling.
- Dowels fix the mounting profile along the perimeter of the entire room, focusing on the horizontally applied fishing line.
- A transverse profile is attached to the rough ceiling surface, which serves as the basis for plastic panels.
- An L-shaped profile is installed along the perimeter of the room, We fix the screws on the mounting profile.
- Before attaching PVC panels to the ceiling, you need to measure their length according to the dimensions of the ceiling surface by cutting off excess material with a metal hacksaw.
- The rest of the plates are attached to each other in turn, using the method tenon groove.
- There is a peculiarity in how to insert the last PVC panel on the ceiling. The sheathing located in the last row is fixed by installing the finishing corner.
- As in the case of using the lathing, the ceiling plinth is mounted in order to eliminate the gaps that appear at the junction of the plastic strips and walls.