How to rivet a chainsaw chain at home

Sharpening a chainsaw chain

This is probably the hardest part of chain saw maintenance. The following items are required for the sharpening process:

The chain is sharpened directly on the saw bar. To do this, taking into account the angle of the bevel (10-30o ) a mandrel is set on the cutting edge of the tooth. The main thing during the procedure is to observe this angle. The file itself must be held perpendicular to the guide bar so that there is a slight overhang above the tooth. The sharpening is carried out in strictly reciprocating motion. When one cutter is finished, the chain is cranked so that there is enough space to work with the next cutter.

After the cutters have been processed, the dressing of the stops can be carried out. If they protrude, the chain will “stroke” the material, and if it is too deep, the saw will get stuck in it. The dressing of the limiters is carried out with the help of a gauge, which is set on the cutting edge. Its end bar with a slot must be at the level of the limiter, otherwise the latter is sharpened.

It is not always convenient to use the sharpening kits delivered with the tool or other improvised means for sharpening saw chains. If the cutters are badly dull, it makes sense to use a chain saw. it can be hand held or electrically operated.

When sharpening cutters and dressing stops, perform an equal number of file movements with an identical force applied. The chain must have the same tooth rotation, otherwise the chain will not run smoothly and may crack or burst.

Maintaining the saw chain is one of the most important tasks for the tool operator. The quality of the set and sharpening depends on the efficiency and safety of the operation. The service life of the tool can be improved by following the chain tensioning and sharpening algorithms recommended by the chainsaw manufacturer, as well as by keeping the brake and lubrication systems in good working condition.

Why the chain on a chainsaw gets stretched?

The chain on any chainsaw stretches over time, this applies not only to budget models, but also to well-known brands such as “STIHL”. The following causes contribute to this process:

• Poor adjustment of the oil pump. Causes improper oil flow, increasing heating of metal during sawing.
• Felling wood and construction in adverse, extreme conditions. Dust, dirt or sand particles on the headset links act as abrasive material. Gradually rubbing the joints.
• Use of used or low-quality oil with m metal particles.
• Installing new headsets without adjusting adjustment bolts after each use.
• Reducing natural tension after long, hard work.

Chain stretching is normal on chainsaws. It can be controlled by the manufacturer’s recommended oil, compliance with the tool’s operating rules. If the tension is neglected, it can lead to tool breakage, decreased productivity and dangerous injuries while working.

Important! You need to choose the right oil for your chainsaw model based on the specifications. The manual always specifies what kind of mixture should be used.

Types of chainsaws and electric chainsaws

Our highly trained service center can repair chain saws of all types: gasoline chain saws. has a compact gasoline engine, electric chainsaws. runs on electric motor power, chain saws. has a chain saw with a small gasoline engine, and chain saws with a small gasoline engine. Power saws, cordless chain saws. powered by a portable battery. All motorized saws are divided into three main professional classes regardless of their motor type. Household (amateur) chainsaws are low-power tools, designed for those who do not use them often, for example, to cut a thick branch in the garden or to cut some firewood at the cottage. Semi-professional (farm) chain saws are intermediate between household and professional class, they do not require a full shift, and are suitable for repair and construction work and felling trees, with breaks for rest. Professional chainsaws are designed for serious year-round work and professional tasks in sawmill and construction site. Each of these kinds has its own advantages and disadvantages in operation. For example: electric chainsaws are quieter and cheaper and lighter than petrol ones; petrol saws are more powerful and mobile, they are not tied to the outlet, but they can be used outside only, because of exhaust fumes; battery-powered on the other hand, they are virtually silent, low in cost and do not require fuel, are convenient and mobile.

Chainsaw chain saw Electric chainsaw Cordless chainsaw

But, unfortunately, both gasoline and electric and cordless chainsaws, such useful and handy garden and construction helpers can break down. Do not get upset and run to buy a new model natvorozhennuyu, we are ready to help you and to repair any chainsaw in the service department of the ! We have only professional engineers who can quickly identify and repair your machine in the shortest time possible, and for a modest fee, which is many times less than the cost of a new unit. Of course, for long and reliable working any garden equipment needs timely maintenance and repair chain saws are no exception.

How to properly sharpen and rivet the chain

Virtually every owner of a suburban home has a chain saw. And if you live in a countryside, it doesn’t even matter: a tool like this is a must-have for them. A chainsaw needs careful and timely service. All the right maintenance instructions are given in the instruction manual.

Accessories and rules of use

The chain saw set should include several chains (minimum. 3) plus 2 bars. After 3 hours of work it is recommended to twist the bar. After another 3 hours the chain is replaced. These rules help to considerably extend the life of all gasoline-powered saw parts. But in real life, we tend to follow our own beliefs and preferences.

Chainsaw features comparison chart.

After a certain time the chain saw is running we just have to retighten the chain. And at a certain moment we notice that the tensioning system does not allow us to tighten the chain. Chain stretched to its maximum. You can’t work with it anymore, because the stretched chain will start to break the sprocket, which will result in very high wear of the tire. The chain should be shortened.

Another reason why we have to shorten the chain is to “fit” a longer chain from another chain saw to our bar. This is also not uncommon, because there is a worldview among chain saw users that chains of higher quality are made for “professional” saws.

Necessary tools

Chainsaw manufacturers say that it is unreal to shorten the chain at home, because the development of its production is very complex and requires high-precision equipment. Practice shows that nothing is impossible. In order to shorten the chain, you will need:

• vise;
• hammer;
• file;
• chisel;
• pliers;
• An electric welder (in some cases, you can do without it).

How to remove rivets?

Chainsaw chain is difficult to disengage. Rivets are made of stainless steel and have a geometric shape that makes it hard to knock them out of the link. The inside of the rivet has a larger radius. This thickening is where the link turns, and the outer parts of the rivets have only a connecting function, so they are quite easy to fix firmly on the outside of the chain. Removing the rivet is done in the following way: the chain is clamped in a vice and the protruding part is filed down. when grinding, be careful not to break the sides of the links.

It is not recommended to use an angle grinder, because the parts are very quickly heated, which will change the physical parameters of the metal. Better to use a rasp or file for grinding. Grinding is done on both sides of the link. And now the rivets can be knocked out of the chain with the help of a bead, by bending a little the sides of the links.

READ How to Cut an Inner Corner on a Chisel

The chain is loose. do not rush to throw away a rivet that you have removed from the chain. It may be that you can not find her a suitable substitute. Chainsaw manufacturers do not expect you to repair the chain yourself, so they do not put such rivets on the market.

It is more profitable for dealers to sell finished chains than small repair parts. For the reasons named it will be very difficult to find a suitable rivet with the right geometry. Make it at home will be even harder, because you have to use an old rivet.

As you might have guessed, the chainsaw chain has to be unbolted twice. Don’t forget to check that the number and spacing of guide lugs on the inside of the chain matches the drive sprocket of the chainsaw. If you shorten an unusual chain, that’s not necessary. And if it’s a chain from another chainsaw model, you have to measure and calculate it very carefully. A deviation in chain pitch (even a small one) from the information given in the design will cause the chain to stretch again in the shortest time (in the best case) or to break the chain sprocket of the chainsaw. The end will come and the bar, as the sprocket will be rapidly overheated.

Unbolted and riveted chainsaw chain

You just have to plug it in the right way and everything will be fine.

Joining links

If all the characteristics of the chain mixes with the parts of your chainsaw, you can begin to connect the links. Join the links on the rivet, tightly pressing their sides. Rivet protrusions will not get any more, because they are flush with the links. You have to use electric welding. Use an electrode with a smaller cross-section.

Tooth wear detection: a. wear of the teeth, b. installation of an additional retainer plate on the locking link.

Do not start welding immediately, because it is a very narrow job. Practice doing it on other parts first. So you know even approximately at what current you should weld and what time to choose the welding. And the electrode will be shorter, which will allow you to weld more accurately. It takes a very short time to get the rivet to stick. After training, perform riveting with the side parts of the link. All that remains is to grind away the excess metal on both sides with a nail file and the chain can be considered ready for use.

Negative consequences of an improper repair of the chain

The considered option of repairing the chain is not the most reliable, because the highest quality of the final product for you no one guarantees. There may be subsequent consequences of such a repair:

READ What is the Chain Sharpening Angle for a Chainsaw?

How to sharpen a chain with a file.

• Excessive heating of the chain elements during welding (especially at low current) caused changes in the physical properties of the metal. The soft metal will allow the chain to stretch not along its entire length, but at the point of welding. The chain guide rails will be displaced and other chain saw elements (sprocket, guide bar) will be out of order very quickly.
• Welding depth is deeper than planned. The inner part of the rivet was welded to one (or more) parts of the link, which was a violation of the mobility of the links. The consequences will be the same as described in the first case.
• The welding quality is poor. In this case, the chain can break while it is in operation. The fact is that the chain is subject to very high lateral loads in operation, so an unreliable weld will “wear out” quickly. The possibility of injury would be very high.

Consult an experienced welder

The question may arise about the advisability of chain saw chain repair, as long as the consequences of its repair can be so serious. But all this is only because of inept welding. An experienced welder will do this work quickly and efficiently, reducing the chance of negative consequences to almost zero. And if you use rivets without welding, the previously mentioned points just disappear. The only question is where to get such rivets. And it’s not that hard to make them, if you have a lathe.

How to make the right rivets with an electric drill?

Do not be afraid: buying a machine tool is not suggested to you. Use an ordinary drill. Let’s describe the whole process of making rivets with a power drill and an ordinary handy file as follows. From a nail, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the inside of the rivets (check with a caliper), cut out a blank. a piece of length of about 7 cm. This workpiece is fixed in the head of the electric drill. The drill itself must also be securely anchored.

On a wooden bar is fastened two notches, the distance between which will be equal to the width of the inside of the rivet. It may not be fast, but you must be absolutely accurate. It remains only to arrange an even feed of the bar on the workpiece. We recommend using a piece of board, one end of which we fix to the stationary part of the workbench with a wide door hinge, and on the second end of the board we fix a block with flats.

Check the perpendicularity of the filing and the workpiece. then you’re ready to go. Turn on the electric drill and smoothly lower the files. They will make grooves on the workpiece. It is not recommended to make rivets in one step, as it is not necessary to overheat the metal, but it is necessary to control the thickness of the workpiece on the machined part. Too thin a portion of the rivet can also damage you, so you need to be as accurate as possible. If you were able to do it right all you need to do is cut the rivet and use it to connect the chain links.

READ How to use the chain sharpening for chainsaws

It is better to cut the rivet by hand, without using an angle grinder. Don’t forget that when cutting metal at high tool speeds there will be a significant increase in material temperature, which is very undesirable. The finished rivet is in no way inferior to the factory product in quality, so the rebuilt chain will last for a long time. Negative aspects when using homemade rivets will be virtually eliminated. When putting on the rivets, remember to align the sides of the links (they have to be bent when cutting the chain). Even a slight protrusion of these elements from the design norm will lead to premature wear of the drive sprocket.

It is advisable to make several rivets at once using the method described above. It’s not just a matter of stocking up on these necessary elements (although this is also important). It is more important to choose the most suitable size out of all the products: any deviation from the norm will make the chain vulnerable to high loads.

The use of reclaimed chains is not recommended when working with dense wood.

Why chains get stretched?

The question often arises why chains are stretched. In a very large number of cases the cause is in fact the poor quality of chains. Counterfeit products on the market are present in a very high percentage. But there are other no less important basic causes. It also happens that the chain saw itself causes the chain to overheat and become stretched.

If this happens, it is because the sprocket oil supply is out of adjustment. The chain saw could be clogged or the chainwheel could be out of adjustment. Your chain saw needs periodic service and adjustment.

Chains also stretch because the drive sprocket is worn. It also happens that a worn sprocket can cause the guide pins to slip. This friction heats the chain very quickly, hence the cause of elongation. Practically the same thing is true when the tension in the chain is too low. The conclusion is inescapable: you need to replace the drive sprocket, the chain saw guide bar and readjust all the components. Otherwise, the problem will only get worse: the chainsaw will begin to work jerkily, the chains will continue to stretch, the engine will fail (with a very high degree of probability).

And also note that when working with a chainsaw, you need to use protective equipment.

This is especially important if you are using a reconditioned chain.

How to rivet a chainsaw chain at home

Sooner or later any motorcyclist is faced with the need to replace the sprockets or chain. A special tool for pressing the links together will help with the removal. Before you rivet the chain on the motorcycle, you need to drive it into the seats. To do this, connect the old riveted chain to the new chain with wire, or a special lock. After dragging the chain over the working ring, unlock the retainer. This procedure is done in neutral gear, after you have secured the bike in a horizontal position. It is advisable to purchase a special service kit. If you temporarily do not have an opportunity to make such purchase, do not worry. all works can be done using improvised means, which can often be found in any garage.

How to rivet a chainsaw chain at home

Virtually every owner of a suburban home has in the presence of a chainsaw. And the inhabitants of rural areas do not even have to say: such a tool is a pressing need for them. And asks the chainsaw for itself with care and timely service. All maintenance rules are correctly spelled out in the annotation.

Accessories and rules of use

The saw set must include several chains (minimum. 3) plus 2 bars. After 3 hours of operation, it is recommended that the bar be rotated. After another 3 hours, the chain is changed. Such ordinary rules allow to prolong term of life of all chainsaw parts considerably. But in real life we don’t really stick to advice and are guided by our own ideas of what’s needed.

Comparative table of chainsaws features.

After a certain time of the chainsaw’s work we just retighten the chain. And at a certain moment we notice that the tensioning system does not allow to tighten the chain. The chain is stretched to its maximum. This is not the reason to work with it anymore, because the stretched chain will start to break the drive sprocket, which will result in very high wear on the guide bar. The chain needs to be shortened.

Another reason why you have to shorten the chain is to “fit” a longer chain from another chain saw to your guide bar. This, too, is not uncommon, because there is a worldview among users that for “professional” chain saws are made by more high-quality chains.

Tools needed

Chainsaw makers say it is not realistic to shorten the chain at home because the design is very complex and requires high-precision tools. Practice shows that nothing is impossible. To shorten a chain you will need:

• vise;
• hammer;
• nail file;
• beards;
• pliers;
• Electric welder (you can do without it in some cases).

How to remove the rivets?

Chainsaw chain is hard to unbolt. Rivets are made of high-quality steel and are geometrically shaped so they don’t just pop out of the link. The inside of the rivet has a larger radius. This thickening is where the link rotates, and the outer parts of the rivets only have a connecting function, so it’s pretty easy to get them firmly fixed to the outside of the chain. To remove a rivet, the chain is clamped in a vice and the protruding part is ground down. When grinding, try not to break the sides of the links.

Using an angle grinder is not recommended because the parts will heat up very quickly and change the physical characteristics of the metal. It is best to use a rasping file or hand file for grinding. Grinding is done on both sides of the link. And now the rivets can be knocked out of the chain with a bead by bending the sides of the links slightly.

The chain is unhooked. Do not throw away the rivet that you removed from the chain. It may be that you can’t find a suitable replacement for it. Chainsaw makers don’t expect to repair the chain themselves, so they don’t put such rivets on the market.

It’s also more profitable for retailers to sell off-the-shelf chains than small repair parts. For all these reasons a rivet with the right geometry is going to be very hard to find. To make it at home will be even harder, so you have to use an old rivet.

As you may have guessed, the chainsaw chain has to be uncoupled twice. Don’t forget to count the number and spacing of guide lugs on the inside of the chain to match the chain sprocket on the chain saw. If you are shortening an unusual chain, this is not necessary. And if it’s a chain from another chainsaw model, you have to measure and calculate everything very carefully. A variation in chain pitch (even a very small one) from the information given in the design will cause the chain to stretch again in no time (in the best case) or to break the chain sprocket of the chainsaw. That will be the end of the bar, as the sprocket will overheat rapidly.

Riveted and riveted the chainsaw chain

It’s important to get the connection right and everything will be fine.

Connecting the links

If all the characteristics of the chain are compatible with your chainsaw, you can start connecting the links. Rivet the links together by pressing the sides together firmly. It is no longer possible to rivet the protrusions, as they are flush with the links. You’ll have to use an electric welder. Take the smallest diameter electrode.

Determination of chain wear: a. wear of teeth, b. installation of an additional fixing plate on the locking link.

It is not recommended to start welding right away, because it is a very delicate work. Practice this first on other parts. So you will at least approximately understand at what current you need to weld and what welding time to choose. And the electrode will be shorter, which will allow welding more accurately. It only takes a very short time to “tack” the rivet. After training, weld the rivet to the side of the link. Then you only have to file away the excess metal on both sides and the chain is ready to be used.

The negative consequences of an incorrect chain repair

The considered option of repairing the chain is not the most reliable, since the high quality of the final product you do not guarantee. The following consequences of such repair are possible:

READ Choosing a chain sharpening machine for chainsaws

Scheme of chain sharpening chainsaw file.

• During welding (especially at a low current) there was excessive heating of the chain elements, which caused a change in the physical properties of the metal. The soft metal will allow the chain to stretch not along its entire length, but at the point of welding. The chain guide rails move and other chain saw parts (sprocket, guide bar) quickly become defective.
• Welding depth is deeper than planned. The inside of the rivet is welded to one (or more) parts of the link, resulting in impaired link mobility. The consequences will be the same as described in the first case.
• Welding quality is poor. If so, the chain could rupture while in use. The reason is that the chain is subjected to very high lateral loads in operation, so an unreliable weld will “wear out” quickly. The possibility of personal injury would be very high.

Contact an experienced welder

The question may arise as to whether or not it is necessary to repair a chainsaw chain as the consequences of the repair can be so serious. But this is only the result of inexperienced welding. An experienced welder will do this job quickly and efficiently, reducing the chance of negative consequences to almost zero. And when using rivets without subsequent welding, the previously mentioned points simply disappear. The only question is where to get these rivets. But to make them is not so difficult, if you have a lathe.

How to make the right rivets with an electric drill?

Do not be afraid: no one offers you to buy a machine tool. Use a regular drill. The entire process of making rivets with an electric drill and an ordinary file is described as follows. From a nail, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the inside of the rivets (check it with a caliper), is cut out a workpiece. a piece of length about 7 cm. This piece is fixed in the head of the electric drill. The drill itself must also be securely anchored.

On a wooden bar is fixed two notches, the distance between which will be equal to the width of the inside of the rivet. You may not be able to do it quickly, but you have to achieve absolute precision. The only thing left is to arrange an even feed of the bar on the workpiece. We recommend to use a piece of board one end of which is fixed to the stationary part of the workbench with a wide door hinge, and on the second end of the board we fix a block with scrapers.

Check that the rake face is perfectly perpendicular to the workpiece and you are ready to go. Start the power drill and lower the files gently. They will make grooves on the workpiece. It is not recommended to make rivets in one go, as it is not necessary to overheat the metal, but it is necessary to control the thickness of the workpiece on the machined part. Too thin a part of the rivet can also damage you, so you need to achieve maximum accuracy. If you were able to do everything correctly, then all that remains is to cut the rivet and use it to connect the chain links.

It is better to cut the rivet by hand, without using an angle grinder. Do not forget that when cutting metal at high tool speeds there will be a significant increase in the temperature of the material, which is very undesirable. The finished rivet is in no way inferior to the factory-made product, so the rebuilt chain will last a long time. There are almost no negative moments when using homemade rivets. The main thing is that when installing the rivets, you do not forget to align the sides of the links (you had to bend them when separating the chain). Even a slight protrusion of these elements from the design norm will cause premature wear of the drive sprocket.

It is advisable to make several rivets at once using the method described above. It is not only about stocking up on such necessary elements (although this is also important). It is more important to choose the most suitable size out of all the items: any deviation from the norm makes the chain vulnerable to high loads.

Reconditioned chains are not recommended for hardwoods.

Why chains get stretched?

The question often arises why chains get stretched. In too many cases, it is precisely the chains that are the cause of this friction. Counterfeit goods are present on the market in a very high percentage. But there are other, equally important, reasons for this. The chainsaw itself is sometimes the cause of overheating and chain stretching.

This is caused by poorly adjusted oil supply to the chain sprocket. It could be caused by a clogged oil inlet or a faulty regulation. A chainsaw needs periodic maintenance and adjustments.

Chains also stretch because the drive sprocket is worn. A worn sprocket causes the guide lugs to slip. These friction causes the chain parts to heat up very quickly, hence the elongation of the chains. Pretty much the same thing happens when the circuit is under tension. The conclusion suggests itself: you need to replace the drive sprocket, chain saw tire, adjustment of all elements. Otherwise the problem will only get worse: the chain saw will work jerkily, the chain will continue to stretch, the engine will fail (with a very high degree of probability).

Also note that when working with a chainsaw, you need to use protective equipment.

This is especially true if you use a regenerated chain.

Good evening.Baffled by the question of how to properly shorten the chain? Does that make sense?? Won’t there be increased wear while using a stretched chain on the drive sprocket and tire? Thanks in advance.

Take it to the service and shorten it. There are specialists there and the necessary equipment. If you get one link removed so that the chain can still fit on the bar, there will be no excessive wear. If the chain is loose, your sprocket is loose. How many chains do you have?

In the service will not take unequivocally, it is easier to buy a new and do not bother. You can’t do it at home?? Stretch life of the tooth will be 50-60%, and by the number of 5 chains from the Stihl. It would be nice to rebuild it for the soul, but how?

krot. I would rather buy a new one and not bother with it. It’s impossible to do it at home?

It is realistic, I guess. But is it worth the trouble?? I mean, is the result worth the hassle?? “You can get a chain shortened for mere pennies at the body shop.

A stretched chain will have a tooth life of 50-60%, and five chains from the Stihl. For the soul will be nice to restore itself, but how?

It seems to me that you have something wrong with the lubrication of the tire, if the tooth life of 50. 60 percent, and the chain is already stretched to the limit.

I don’t see the point. By the way, I used to shorten Druzhba’s saw, but its rpm was not the same as with modern saws. I wouldn’t.

newzubok wrote : Take it to a service shop and have it shortened. There are experts there and the proper equipment. If you get one link thrown out so that the chain still fits on the tire, there will be no increased wear. If the chain is stretched, your sprocket is loose.

Valerich wrote : Exactly what won’t go on the sprocket.

What the heck? The pitch of the chain will not change by one tooth, and the chain is already stretched and running down on the sprocket. it’s worth the trouble if you have three alternating chains running and one chain is running too long for some reason. I had one of those once when something clogged the tire lubrication system. I flushed it with gasoline and diesel, regreased the grease and threw one sprocket in the service. Then mangled all 3 chains to “zero”, changed them and changed the sprocket as usual.

krot. wrote : I will not take it to a service, it’s easier to buy a new one and not bother. It is not realistic to do this at home? A stretched chain has a tooth life of 50-60%, but five Stihl chains by number. For the soul it will be nice to rebuild it yourself, but how?

newzubok wrote : threw out one link in the service.

You’re not confused? I’ve been with chainsaws since 1982. Give you a chance to make it right?

Read also: Device of combined driven piles in punched holes

Didn’t wait. I have to sleep. I have to work tomorrow at 9:00. So you can’t throw away one link. Just do not be riveted will. The Druzhba chains came with spare links and I riveted them myself. That’s why I know. We take modern ones to the service, so we don’t know much about them. But the principle is the same. Good night!

It’s easy to shorten a chain. For sale are connecting links with rivets for 3 hryvnia apiece for all chains, and besides branded, Stilevsky and fit to the Oregon, the main thing. the same pitch (we have such a price in Nadvornaya, maybe elsewhere). Carefully saw off the rivet head on the chain with an angle grinder, remove the tooth, and rivet the chain in place. I do it often, it takes five minutes.

valerich wrote : Are you sure you are not mistaken?? I’ve been with chainsaws since 1982. Give you a chance to get better?

I’m not confused. I just thought I was talking to technically literate people who understand what is meant by “one link”. Just like a bicycle chain and a motorcycle chain.

You need to go to the service, and it is not a question of money but time. Yes, and I like to do it myself. And the chain is stretched because of the work without oil, friends have tried (the last time this saw)

By the way, dumb chains stretch pretty well too. You can saw with stretched chains in general. Sprockets wear out quickly, then when you put a new chain on the old sprockets is also not good. If the sprockets aren’t worn, it’s better to buy another chain. I understand if you’re greedy, but better a chain than a tire with a sprocket.

Dimon 35 wrote : By the way, dumb chains stretch pretty well too. Sawing with extended chains in general. The sprockets wear out quickly, and when you put a new chain on the old sprockets, it’s no good either. If the sprocket isn’t worn it’s better to buy another chain. I understand if you hate it but better a chain than a sprocket and tire.

Dim, why the hell would a tire? I agree about the sprocket. I would also agree that if the sprocket is almost new. (Why the hell would it be almost new?). Tooth life is 50%, if the three chains have been working evenly on the sprocket alternately, the sprocket is already worn enough). I had a similar situation, I shortened the chain and finished all three chains on the old sprocket, then bought three new chains and a new sprocket.

What would a worn sprocket look like to you?? I’ll compare it to mine.

krot. wrote: What do you think a worn sprocket should look like?? I’ll compare it to mine.

I don’t know why the tire has a sprocket and it works the same way as the saw. And as for when to change. When the chain cannot be tensioned when you use the saw, it is too tight or slack or when the chainwheel is worn over 0,5 mm.

krot. wrote: How do you think a worn out sprocket should look like? I’ll compare it to mine.

She has these grooves on her beams. It’s not even a question of the depth. Sometimes there are a couple of them on the beam that get wiped. It’s just a practice to buy 3 chains that are used alternately on the sprocket, in a circle. When the chain is worn to zero, change the chain and sprocket. If you put a new chain on a worn sprocket, the teeth that the sprocket pulls on will wear out quickly but the saw teeth stay mostly intact. That’s why it’s not recommended to buy one new chain to replace an old chain that is stretched for some reason (lack of lubrication, such as yours). It’s better to work on the other two if you can’t shorten the third one. And then change the chain and the sprocket. You have, as far as I understand, five chains? Work with the three of them until they are completely worn out. Then you change the chain and sprocket. When the three new ones have worn down to the condition of the fourth one left in reserve, put it to work and work the four in a circle. And again until they’re all worn out. And then you change the chain and sprocket again. And you might even shorten the fifth chain during that time. And what happens next is the same. That’s what I would do.

How to choose a chain for a chainsaw

Buying chainrings for your chain saw is no less important than buying the saw itself. Knowing its purpose and understanding its main technical criteria, the choice of chain will simplify many times and will only benefit. It should be based on:

Making a Chainsaw Chain with Breaker and Rivet Spinner

• Mutual correspondence of power and technical features of a certain saw and its headset;
• Understanding whether it will be possible to service it, its frequency and the amount of skills required;
• Knowing all the nuances of a specific saw marking. Here it is also important to understand whether or not the work tool can be retrofitted with a non-original headset;
• Overholding the position that 3/8″ is the best pitch for the chain; selecting a sharpening angle, which can be 10 or 30 0;
• This is very important for the size of the guide bar and the cutter bar itself which must match in order for the chain not to sag or become too tight.

Find out how to change their length at home in the next section.

What you need to know to choose the right cutting chain?

The chain on any chainsaw stretches over time, this applies not only to budget models, but also to well-known brands, such as “STIHL”. The following causes contribute to this process:

• Poor oil pump setup. leads to wrong oil supply, increasing heating of metal while sawing.
• Felling and construction in adverse, extreme conditions. Particles of dust, dirt or sand get on the headset links and act as an abrasive material. Gradually wipe down the joints.
• Use of used or low-quality oil with m metal particles.
• Installing a new headset without adjusting the adjusting bolts after each use.
• Release of natural tension after long and intensive work.

Chain stretching is a normal phenomenon with chainsaws. It can be monitored with the manufacturer’s recommended oil, adherence to the tool’s operating rules. If the tension is left unchecked, it can lead to tool breakage, loss of performance, and dangerous injuries during use.

Important! The choice of oil depends on the technical specifications of your saw model. The instructions always tell you which compound to use.