How to sharpen knives
Before proceeding to the explanations concerning directly sharpening knives, you need to know the following:
Some knives have a hard coating that makes the cutting edge of the blade more resistant to wear and tear than ever before. Naturally, no hard layer remains after sharpening.
Never blunt, so never sharpen. The only disadvantage of a ceramic blade is its increased fragility, although some substances (such as zirconium oxide) have some flexibility. Ceramic blades are second only to corundum and diamond in hardness.
has gained popularity for two reasons: the introduction of hard wear resistant steels (440C type) and the advent of laser controlled complex sharpening machines. However, this is what makes it difficult to resharpen knives at home. A good ‘serrator’ is made of hard steel, which is difficult to sharpen, and resharpening on both sides destroys the serrated edge.
There are no “forever self-sharpening” knives. It’s just an advertising gimmick. If you use the knife permanently, sooner or later it will get blunt and you need to sharpen it to be able to continue working with it safely and comfortably. There’s no laser sharpening. Knives are sharpened on a milling machine, and a laser is used there only to control the sharpening angle. The secret of Damascus steel is long lost. Modern manufacturing methods can make the knife very durable and firm, but there are manufacturers who put a specific “Damascus-like” pattern on cheap blades.
The knife must be clean and dry when sharpening.
And now. an observation from life: the overwhelming majority of users can’t sharpen their knives and others’ too, that’s why everybody is satisfied with half-sharp, feebly sharpened knives at best. Let’s see together! Try to cut an ordinary piece of writing paper with any knife, holding it with the other hand at one corner. It didn’t work? That’s clear, so this knife just isn’t very sharp, to put it mildly.
So why does the knife blunt during cutting?? There are two parallel processes involved. The first is the microscopic particles of steel pulling away from the blade by friction. Simply put, the blade rubs off.
The steel of the blade is of course much harder than most of the materials you cut with the knife, so it wears down much slower, after all you cut wood with steel, not steel with wood. But still, little by little, the steel rubs off. Especially there, where it has the greatest specific load. on the very edge of the blade, on its front, cutting edge. I stress that this process takes place on a micro-level, so the results are microscopic.
You can’t see them with the naked eye, and you can only guess about the bluntness of the knife by the smoothly increasing force necessary for cutting. But if that’s the only way our knife would blunt. very seldom would we need to sharpen it. The trouble is that when cutting, it is almost impossible to hold the blade all the time so that it “attacks” the cut material strictly in the direction of its plane of symmetry.
The first thing to come to terms with is spending a few dozen dollars on decent sharpening tools. Especially if you have several knives or, moreover, an entire collection of them. To spend hundreds of dollars on knives and to spare dozens on a good sharpening tool reminds one of the folk wisdom about the notorious “thrifty” who is known to pay twice The second is to reconcile with the fact that nobody will sharpen the knife as his master will do it with appropriate level of training, and with appropriate tools, of course. And it’s not a matter of taste that you shouldn’t sharpen the knife on the high-speed grinding wheel! Every steel is hardened under certain temperature conditions. Uncontrolled heat during sharpening on the grinding wheel is likely to ruin the blade irreversibly. Wetting the knife while sharpening makes no difference, the thin ribbon of steel at the very tip overheats instantly! Yes, manufacturers sharpen knives mechanically, on grinding belts. But, first, they do it wisely, the sharpening is usually done by the most skilled workers. Secondly, they feed these belts at low speed. And the main thing is to pay attention to how short the factory sharpening lasts, though in the beginning the knife really cuts like a razor.
If you recently bought or recently sharpened knife lost its former sharpness, you can improve the cutting edge with mussata or fine sharpening stone. You can do it several times, but then you have to sharpen it completely.
A musate is a blade made of very hard steel, or ordinary steel but with a diamond coating, or even ceramics. A steel musate resembles a round file with grooves in the axial direction. While dressing, you should guide the edge of the knife away from yourself along the mousse, shifting it smoothly from the handle to the tip.
Sharpening of the knife It is not recommended to use a special sharpener, as its angle of sharpening may not coincide with the original angle of the blade, and the movement occurs along the blade, creating longitudinal grooves.
It is also forbidden to grind the knife on a high-speed grinding wheel. Each steel is hardened in certain temperature conditions. Uncontrolled heat during sharpening on the grinding stone will most likely damage the blade.
And finally, it is worth to grind on sandpaper only as a last resort.
It is best to sharpen the knife on a sharpening stone.
Sharpening stones and bars have different degrees of grit size: coarse stones are used to restore the correct angle of sharpening and the shape of the cutting edge; medium stones are used for sharpening as such; fine stones are used for fine dressing of the knife. The bigger the block, the easier it is to keep the correct sharpening angle. It is most convenient when length of the block is 1.5-2 lengths of the blade. The width of the block is of secondary importance. A wide block is more convenient to work on, and is less likely to “let” the blade outside the block, which might damage its lateral surface or blade. A two-inch (5 cm) wide block would be fine. The diamond may be a little shorter because it grinds faster and more efficiently, but to learn the basic movement properly, it’s best to learn with a long block. It is better to put the block itself on a special pad to prevent it from sliding and scratching the table.
The width of the bar is secondary. A wide block is more convenient to work on, and is less likely to “let” the blade outside the block, which can damage its side surface or blade. I think a two inch (5 cm) wide block would be just fine.
Knives that cannot be sharpened
There are special knives with a hard coating that makes them more resistant to wear and tear. If you sharpen such knives, the hard layer is broken.
Ceramic knives have a long service life and do not need sharpening. But they sell diamond-powdered sharpeners specifically for such knives, and they can only slightly adjust the blade. Brittleness of the blade is the main disadvantage of a ceramic knife. They cannot cut meat or other solid foods.
Nor should knives with serrated edges be sharpened. If this knife is made of solid steel, it will be sharp for a long time. There are knives that have a serrated edge on one side and a cutting edge on the other side that can and should be resharpened as needed.
It is an advertising ploy, a trick with which to attract customers. In fact, there are no self-sharpening knives.
Soak the knife in ice water or put it in the freezer before sharpening. A cold blade is easier to work with.
A musate is a round or beveled steel band for sharpening knives. It can be used to easily correct a cutting edge. Slide the knife at an angle of 20 degrees on itself.
Sharpening stone (block). The larger the stone, the easier it is to control the knife when sharpening.
A trick to sharpening knives with the block
Wet the block and rag in water. Put a wet rag on top of the block. When you press the block, water drops appear on it. This improves sharpening quality.
A ceramic mug is the way to go when you don’t have any sharpening tools in the house. Grind the knife against the bottom of the mug.
Lighter for sharpening knives. Take apart two unwanted lighters. All you need from them are 2 wheels. Use screws to attach the wheels to the wooden block. Guide the blade toward you through the 2 wheels. This method is not ideal, but useful if you do not have a block.
Drill and sandpaper. Cut a piece of sandpaper and glue it with thermal adhesive to the muff of the drill. Fix the drill and turn it on. Bring the blade at an angle to the sanding stone on the socket of the drill.
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How to sharpen steel knives at home
There can be many options for sharpening knives, it all depends on what set of tools the master has.
Hand sharpening is done on sharpening stones. These are also usually divided into certain types. There are not only common household tools, but also professional sharpening sets.
Sharpen knives on a sharpening stone. You can start with a medium grit device. This is an abrasive stone that is at least the length of the knife blade.
For serious sharpening the whole sets of sharpening stones are created. In the future, as you gain experience, there will be a need for stones with coarse grit to form the overall contour of the knife, you will need medium grit stones for the primary roughing of the blade, the finishing will go on the grinding plates of fine grit or on the grinding belt.
The knife is placed across the bar at the desired angle and in this position is guided along the longitudinal axis while pressing the blade against the surface.
Position of the knife when sharpening
Sharpening tools with sharpening stones or metal bits
A variety of table sharpeners have been created for the convenience of users. They are made by companies, specializing in the production of knives. The element that removes a layer of metal from the surface of the knife, sharpening its blade, is either a sharpening stone or a piece of hard carbon steel with cutters. Naturally, the steel of the pick should be harder than that of the knife. The sharpening stones installed in such devices come with a diamond coating; this is the hardest variant of the working surface.
The knife can be clamped in the sharpener and precisely provide the desired sharpening angle. You can simply pull the blade between the cutting or abrasive surfaces. This way of sharpening protects your hands from accidental cuts.
Finishing with a musate or emery cloth
After sharpening on a stone, the knife should be finished. For this technological operation, a special tool called a mousate is used. This is a round steel rod made of very hard hardened steel. On one end of the shaft there is a wooden or plastic handle for easy holding. However, metal handles can also be found.
The surface of the mousse is covered with longitudinal chisels. They deburr the blade. Working with this device should be carried out as follows. Hold the knife in one hand and the scraper in the other. The two pieces are pressed crosswise to each other. Then, keeping the pressure, the hands separate sharply to the sides. After that the knife is pressed to the mousata by its other side and the movement is repeated.
The steel crumbs cut from the knife do not fall off because the working surface of this tool is magnetized. After working it should be wiped with a damp cloth. There are moussats with ceramic working rods.
Finishing of the sharpened knife can be performed on a fine emery cloth. It is spread out on a flat hard surface and with sliding movements polish the blade of the knife.
Sharpening a knife with the help of improvised materials
If there is no sharpening stone or sharpener available in the vicinity, it is possible to correct a not very blunt knife on a sheet of sandpaper.
From such a desperate situation in the kitchen can help ceramic dishes. a mug or a plate. You need to turn the pot upside down, at the bottom you will find a ring. a stand. On its rough abrasive surface you may sharpen the knife from not very good quality steel until its practical validity.
Self-sharpening of blades
Sharpening a knife with an angle grinder
The sharpening of the blade with the sharpening stone is considered to be the best, provided, of course, that it was made by an experienced master. To sharpen the blade against the sharpening block do the following:
- Move the blade on the block so that during the movement, it touches the surface of the slicer, along its entire length.
- Try to keep the angle of the blade at the same angle while moving it.
- After 2 or 3 movements, turn the knife over and repeat the sharpening process on the other side of the blade.
- In this way, alternating sides, sharpen the knife until an edge (burr) appears on the edge of the blade.
- Change the coarse sharpening stone to the grinding stone.
- Grind the blade of your knife until the edge is gone.
- Check the sharpness of the knife by cutting the hemp rope folded in several times or try to cut a sheet of paper.
Also see how to sharpen a knife with a sharpening stone in this video clip:
Sharpening a hunting knife with a Lansky sharpener
Hunting knives are made of hard steel, so their initial sharpening requires sharpening stones with a low abrasive grain.
- Grip the blade in the vise of the sharpener.
- Place a sharpening stone with a low grit size on the sharpening block.
- Select the angle of the stone (for hunting knives, this usually varies from 20 to 30 degrees).
- Insert the sharpening block into the desired hole.
- Lubricate the sharpener with the oil included in the sharpening kit.
- Start moving the bar along the blade of the knife, from the base to the tip.
- Turn the sharpener over and repeat the process on the other side of the knife.
- After the edge is formed, change the stone and perform the final grinding.
- Since hunting knives are mostly made with a double-sided blade, after sharpening one side, change the position of the knife in the vise and start the sharpening process from the other side.
- Finished sharpening, polish the blade with the felt.
See the video on how to sharpen your knives with the Lansky sharpener:
Knives should be sharpened on a special sharpening machine. Sharpening of blades with the help of handy tools (sandpaper, edge of a cup, etc.).) can improve the sharpness of your scissors for a while, but not for long. If you do not have the opportunity to have your scissors sharpened by a professional, you can try to sharpen them on an abrasive stone yourself. When sharpening, a few simple rules must be followed:
- The sharpening stone should be fine-grained.
- Sharpening the edge of the blade is done all around the edge at the same time.
- The angle of the blade should align with the factory edge.
- The movement of the blade across the stone should be done from screw to tip.
- Scissors should be sharpened in a disassembled state.
When sharpening scissors, take your time, patience will be your ally.
How to sharpen scissors quickly, you can also watch in the video:
Planer and chisel blade sharpening
Sharpening planer and chisel blades do not practically differ from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below applies to both tools:
- Place the chisel on the jig at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
- Hold the chisel in your hand and with your other hand press the chamfer against the stone.
- Start driving the chisel on the sharpening stone until a burr forms on the smooth side of the chisel.
- Change to a fine grit burr and carry out final sanding of the chisel.
- Check the sharpness of the chisel blade by removing shavings from the corner of the block.
In addition to sharpening by hand, the chisel can also be sharpened on a machine with a rotating abrasive disk:
- Turn the machine on and let the chisel advance at full speed.
- Hold the chisel with both hands and place the chamfer on the sharpening disc.
- Be sure to observe the chisel angle, otherwise you will damage the blade.
- Do not press the chisel too hard or hold it too long on the wheel, it will overheat the metal and break the blade.
- Wet the blade with water while sharpening.
- The final sanding of the blade of the chisel, it is better to produce in the manual, with a fine-grained bar or sandpaper.
Do not forget that sharpening on the machine produces a lot of sparks and small particles that can get into the eyes, so be sure to work in safety glasses. And to avoid damaging your hands on the rotating disk, wear gloves.
You can also learn how to sharpen tools from the video:
Tips for a fast sharpening of the blade with improvised means
You can sharpen your knife on a hike or a picnic by using a pebble, for example. Use any stone lying on the ground instead of a sharpening stone and drag the blade of your knife across its surface. You will not get razor sharpness, but you will return the knife to the working condition.
The second knife
It is possible to sharpen two knives at once, without sharpening stones and tools. One must take the knife in both hands and begin to sharpen the blade of one knife against the blade of the other. After 5-10 minutes of such work, the knives will be sharper than before.
The blade of the knife can be slightly sharpened on the rough edge of glass or ceramic objects. For example, against the bottom of a glass or the edge of a tile. The main thing is to make the surface rough.
Leather belt is more suitable for finishing and giving razor sharpness to the knife blade than for rough sharpening. But if you have nothing but the belt at hand, you can try to sharpen the knife on it. To do it, the belt should be strained and you should start driving the blade on it, maybe you will not get sharpness, but you will polish the knife up to shine. By learning to sharpen knives and tools yourself, you will acquire a skill that will come in handy throughout your life!
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Finishing the mesh surface of a meat grinder
Finishing of the mesh is also very important. its grooving will not let the knife perform its work properly. Of course, here too, you can make a device for mechanized sharpening, but it makes little sense. The fact is that the plane of the grid is much larger, which means that it is quite convenient to work manually.
Finishing the mesh of the meat grinder is done (mandatory!) on the same moistened abrasive plane that was used for sharpening the knife. In no case can not make reciprocating movements. finishing is made only by circular. Otherwise, nothing worthwhile can come out of such work. The meat grinder may spin a little better, but it will be very far from ideal.
The smallest shells that have formed on the surface of the mesh due to corrosion do not count, do not pay much attention to them. The main task is to remove the workout, to flatten the ground plane of the knife with the original one. In the example below, if you look closely, you can see this rim. It’s most obviously visible from underneath.
The nuances of finishing the mesh from the meat grinder, the care of the parts
Doing this work, you should not hurry. It makes sense to inspect and if necessary finish the back side. This will allow you to simply turn the grid over later when reassembling the unit. To make it twist the meat much better.
Many people have more than one set of grids and knives in their kitchen. But moisture is often higher in such rooms, so any nets and blades that are not in use become worthless even more quickly through corrosion. Therefore, it is best to leave only one set in the kitchen, and wrap the others in oiled rags or paper and store them in the pantry until they are needed. In this case, you can be sure that cooking will not be interrupted due to the failure of the grid and knife for the meat grinder.
The Final Part
Failure of the meat grinder at a time when it is desperately needed is very unpleasant. But often we don’t even look at the condition of the blade and screen as long as the machine is dismantled and not in use. And you should have. It’s better to have all the parts ready beforehand. This is the only way to be sure that the meat grinder will not fail at the most inopportune moment. Sharpening and finishing parts takes time, but spending it on such work is worth it.
We hope the information we’ve presented today will be helpful to home crafters. If you still have questions, post them in the discussion below. The Homius editorial staff will be happy to answer them as quickly as possible. There you can also comment on what you have read, write whether the information was useful to you, or share your own ways of sharpening knives for meat grinders. It will be interesting to know if you have encountered blunt knives at the most inopportune moment. If you enjoyed this article, don’t forget to rate it. Every opinion is important to us.
The final part
The failure of the meat grinder at a time when it is desperately needed is very unpleasant. But often we don’t even look at the condition of the blade and screen when the machine is dismantled and not in use. And you should be. It is better to have all the parts ready beforehand. This is the only way to be sure that the meat grinder will not fail at the most inopportune moment. Sharpening and finishing parts takes time, but it is worth spending it on such work.
We hope that home cooks will find the information we present today useful. If you still have questions, post them in the discussion below. The Homius staff will be happy to answer them as soon as possible. There you can also comment on what you read, write if the information was useful for you or share your own ways of sharpening knives for mincing knives. It will be interesting to know if you have encountered blunt knives at the most inopportune moment. If you liked the article, do not forget to rate what you read. We value every opinion.
Where to sharpen knives for a meat grinder
Asking the question, how to sharpen knives for a meat grinder, do not forget that qualified help in fixing this problem can only be provided by specialists. After all, if there is nothing but sandpaper at home, sharpening such a blade can be a difficult task. And buying a belt sharpener just to sharpen the knives of your meat grinder every six months might seem like a smart move
This is why most people prefer to use the services of professionals who are engaged in the manufacture of keys and sharpening all kinds of knives. These professionals are usually close to home in every neighborhood. And the cost of this service is not so great.
Grind the knife and the grid with emery paper
To do this you need to buy fine-grained sandpaper. The sharpening material is firmly clamped on a flat, horizontal surface. After fixation you can start the process of sharpening the cutting elements. blades. You need to press them firmly against the surface of the abrasive and rotate them in a circle for several minutes. As a result the knife should become shiny and spicier. Grid plate is sharpened in the same way. The whole procedure takes no more than 10 minutes.
If the knife is too old or rusty it will have to be pre-treated with a sharpening machine in any case. If you don’t have such a tool at home, a construction drill can be an alternative. You will also need a bolt, the diameter of which coincides with the knife hole. The bolt is inserted into the chuck of the drill, and then the peculiar tool is passed over the knife. True, the work will turn out rough, so this method can only be used to remove rust from the knife surface.
Not every house has a sharpening machine, so for sharpening knives you can use any homemade method, using a fine abrasive. Regular maintenance of the cutting elements of the meat grinder will make the process of chopping products as pleasant as possible, and, therefore, you will be able to pamper the household with delicious dishes much more often!
Types of devices for sharpening knives
Knife sharpening stone. probably the first device of its kind. A simple, and, most importantly, affordable tool has successfully accomplished its task for many millennia.
With the advent of steel blades, they were sharpened with special rocks of stone, most often of volcanic origin, in the photo an example of knife sharpening with Japanese water stone
To this day, the classification of machines depends on this once-unalternative sharpening tool. According to the type of abrasive material can be:
Actually, in the modern world it is possible to sharpen with a sharpening stone just a simple hunting knife. In other cases, the quality will be desirable. Besides, only soft metals can be sharpened with stone, if cutting part of the blade has hardness more than 55 HRC, there is no way to sharpen it with improvised means.
Important! Each type of blade has a different edge angle. And during sharpening, it must be held over the entire length of the workpiece surface.
Some types of modern sharpening stones are still in use today. Examples of such natural stones are Japanese water stone (we showed it in the photo above) or American “arkansas. Masters sharpeners even hold special workshops on sharpening knives with natural stones. It is also worth mentioning that this stone is soaked in water, sometimes with soapy water, before being cut, and then dried after the work. The whole process resembles a mystery for the initiated. So it should come as no surprise that these rocks are too expensive, and most sharpeners use artificial abrasive surfaces.
Knife sharpening stones
These are artificially ground stones with an abrasive coating, which are suitable for manual sharpening of carpenter’s and metalwork tools, as well as for kitchen knives.
Brus (sharpening stone) is an abrasive tool, the grit size of which can vary
The stones, depending on the material from which they are made, can be of varying degrees of wear resistance and grit. Consider the main types of materials that are used in the manufacture of sharpening stones:
- Natural stones such as novaculite or Japanese water stone. Not particularly easy to work with. They require certain skills and craftsmanship.
- Diamond (diamond-powdered). various shapes and grain sizes. Wear-resistant. Demanding price.
- Ceramic. Represents a more modern kind of sharpening stone. Combine the strength of diamond coating with the hardness of natural stone.
- Artificial: electrocorundum or carbide. Rapidly abrasive abrasive, low quality and the same price.
Artificial abrasives are created by mixing diamond powders of different fractions, as well as electrocorundum and carbide.
Important! The material used to glue the rock together, as well as the percentage ratio of all elements is of great importance. The stronger and better the composition (this also applies to the particles themselves), the more durable the sharpening abrasive will be.
Option of a diamond blade sharpener
There are two types of bonding elements. galvanic and soft. In the first case, the crystals are glued strictly to the surface of their base, made of nickel alloy. Essentially, the crystals are arranged in a very thin layer on the bar. Soft bond is a chaotic arrangement of binding and abrasive elements. The second type is less wear-resistant.
Sharpening stones for knives
If we talk in more detail about sharpening stones, it is necessary to tell about the main varieties used in such tools, it will help to understand in detail the process and understand how to sharpen a knife correctly. But before talking about them, it is impossible not to mention the stages of sharpening, which in this context will play a crucial role in the description of different materials and machines.
Let us now describe the principal varieties of sharpening stones.
Apply equally well to all sharpening applications. There are artificial analogs (ceramic-based), but professionals use original, natural materials. Sharpening stones require special care, the most important rule for the craftsman is a perfectly level surface of the sharpening stone.
“To check the levelness of a stone, use a simple method. Wet the bar and place it on a paper sheet on a flat surface. The imprint will allow you to judge the level of smoothness of the stone.
Novaculites, or “Arkansas”, “Turkish”, “Belgian” stones, are natural slates and chalcedony with tiny particles of garnet and quartz thrown in. Both natural stones and their artificial substitutes are used today.
Important! The stones only work in combination with special lubricant. The unconventional and unique structure of the stones enables you to use them in various machining phases.
A musate for sharpening knives
Musate is a kind of file, most often mounted vertically. The peculiarity of this tool is that its surface is magnetized, which means that you will not fall on the metal flour.
How to correctly sharpen a knife
For a quality sharpening machine requires experience and certain knowledge. Let’s start with the basics.
Optimal sharpening angles and degree of sharpness for kitchen knives
It is no secret that there are a lot of knives for different materials. A good hostess has her own vegetable and meat knife. Consider the correct angles of sharpening for different tools.
|Type of tool||Sharpening angle|
|Razor and scalpel||10-50°|
|Professional chef’s blades||20-25°|
|For demanding tasks||25-30°|
|Universal home tools||30-35°|
|Roughing and carving knives||25-30°|
|Professional for fish||25°|
|Professional knives for vegetables||35°|
|Hunting and “Swiss” (sharp)||30-35°|
|Hunting and Swiss, blunt-resistant razors||40-45°|
By the way! Sharpest knives are considered blades with an angle of sharpening of 50°, such versions with a certain steel grade can cut nails. When sharpening knives, the angle can be varied as desired within the named range.
In general, the sharpness of the blade depends on the shape of the blade. And it, in its turn, should correlate with certain clear correspondence of blade-to-blade ratios.
For example, the strongest blade will be in the shape of a trapezoid, and the sharpest will be an isosceles triangle
How to sharpen a knife at home using a sharpening stone
The process is uncomplicated, but rather laborious. Without sharpening experience, it is pointless to try this process. Usually masters use two sharpening stones with different abrasive densities. with coarse and fine grains.
“The blade of the knife must always be wet. You can use special oils or sharpening lubes.
The next step is to choose the angle of sharpening. Here we focus on the table above and take the range from and to. Remember, the smaller the sharpening angle, the faster the knife will blunt. For a beginner, it will be difficult to maintain the same angle. In order to successfully complete this step, it is important to hold the knife with both hands.
In order to maintain the correct angle, beginners can be advised to grind a special blade from wood, the angle of which would correspond to the required angle of sharpening. Carefully place the blade on this blade, lower the angle of the blade to the sharpening surface and begin sharpening.
We begin work on a coarse-grained block, and then, when the stage of edge grinding begins. with a fine abrasive
How to sharpen a knife with a moussate at home
The sharpening takes place in the balance. The blade is led along the whole length of the instrument, usually several such “passes” are enough.
The process of sharpening with the leaf blades is quite simple. Hold the tool in one hand and the knife in the other
To prevent the blade from slipping, the moussate is equipped with a special stopper or guard, which prevents the blade from injuring the hand.
How to correctly sharpen the knife on the electric sharpening machine
The sharpening process is almost identical to the manual sharpening. The only difference is that in this case it is not the blade that is wetted, but the sharpening disk itself. Usually it happens automatically as in the above mentioned machines.
Typical mistakes when sharpening knives with your hands
Everyone knows that it is better to prevent errors than to correct them later. That’s why HouseChief editors.Ru has prepared a list of the most common blunders of beginners during the sharpening of knives:
- Incorrectly set the sharpening angle.
- Resharpening blade. Occurs when there is too much pressure on the sharpener with the blade, which can damage or even crack.
- Sharpening an unprepared tool or a worn sharpening disc.
- Using a shredder in all phases of work. As we remember, a mousette is used for finishing a cutting edge.
- Use of fine grit abrasive.
All these subtleties are important to consider at the stage of organization of work. To learn how to correctly sharpen a knife with a block, please see this video.