How to remove the disk from the angle grinder without a wrench
Working with any mechanisms, you should always expect abnormal situations, which can not always be solved in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturers. Angle grinders are no exception. You may encounter excessive clamping of the cutting disc during operation. This problem is especially common with large, powerful models, over 2 kW. What to do if the disc on the angle grinder is jammed or the nut does not unscrew? Let’s deal with this issue further on.
It is difficult to encounter such a problem when rotating at idle speed. Especially when working with light wheels and soft-start tools. However, after the revolutions are increased and the surface is in contact with the cut surface, the following happens:
- When the material is resisted, the lap has a drastic reduction in angular velocity of rotation, it brakes.
- The motor continues to run for a few moments at the same speed due to inertia, dragging the gearbox and spindle along with it.
- The retaining nut is tightened more forcefully by the inertia on the thread of the spindle head and thus the cutting disc is pressed in.
The tightening process of the locking flange is now complete. the emergency is evident. The following factors influence its occurrence:
- Large wheel size.
- High tool power.
- Massiveness of the rotor.
- The cutting depth can be drastically increased, t.е. increased resistance.
In this case, it is very difficult to remove the disc from the angle grinder. Additional measures must be taken.
disc replacement in regular operation
Angle grinder works regularly, it is necessary to constantly change the disc, which is a consumable. If the tool is already uncomfortable to work with, the abrasive wheel should be replaced.
Important! Be sure to check the disconnection from the power grid to avoid your own injury.
Step by step procedure
The wheel is fastened to the spindle head with a locking nut with M14 thread. It is fitted as standard with an open-ended wrench and special projections for engaging with the locking flange holes.
To unscrew the nut, it is necessary to fix the spindle. For this purpose, there is a special lock located on the back of the angle grinder. Press the button and the cotter pin secures the gearbox and prevents it from turning.
Insert the wrench into the holes. Hold the ratchet in one hand and turn it counter-clockwise with the other, pushing the nut.
The direction of movement of the disc is generally clockwise. However, there are some models that can have a different locking mechanism than the standard model. In any case the unscrewing is in the opposite direction to the rotation.
When the nut is moved, it can be effortlessly unscrewed by hand.
After intensive work with the metal tool, you can find a layer of burnt and abrasive scale inside the shroud. Use a steel brush to remove any residue.
After cleaning, reassemble the bottom flange, aligning the grooves on the spindle with the grooves on the flange. Place the gasket on top.
If your model does not have additional spacers, similar washers may be prepared from plastic or thick cardboard. Then place the disc properly on the angle grinder and cover it with a similar gasket.
Important! The spacers installed make it easy to unscrew the nut, even if the disc is jammed or broken.
Use your hand to screw the top retainer counterclockwise (counterclockwise) while supporting the cutting wheel. Also tighten the spindle lock and screw the flange in until resistance is noticeable. Use a spanner to tighten with a little more force. Do not overtighten the fastener, otherwise you could overtighten the wheel and it will warp.
Now you can continue with your work. However, problems occasionally arise and the disc on the angle grinder simply cannot be unscrewed. To learn how to change the disc on the angle grinder in such cases, please see below.
Open-end wrench and socket head
To remove a firmly tightened lock angle grinder you can use a wrench for 17 and a socket head for 24. However, they must be modified before such non-standard use. The wrench needs to be ground to a thickness of 4 mm, and on the head you need to grind out the projections for the holes on the retainer of the angle grinder.
To disassemble it proceed as follows. The wrench is inserted under the abrasive and the socket head is put on the flange. Next, the two tools must be turned in the opposite direction of each other. After that the nut should unscrew without any effort.
These devices often replace special tools, or are used as a supplement. They are many times easier to loosen the abrasive disk clamping than the standard version.
What to do if the nut is jammed?
A common problem with angle grinders is a jammed nut. The first thing to do in this situation is to determine the direction of rotation of the disc. In the same direction and it is recommended to unscrew the jammed nut. There are several most effective ways to solve the problem.
- Use a wrench and socket head. To do this, the surface of the 17-mm open-end wrench should be ground by 4 millimeters. Center four protrusions in the 24 millimeter head that align with the holes in the flange nut. Then place the open-jaw wrench under the disk, and place the socket head on the nut of the angle grinder. After that use the ratchet to turn it in the direction of rotation of the disc.
- Use a gas wrench. Knowing the laws of physics and using a gas wrench, the torque can be increased because the arm length increases.
But do not force it, because you might crush the flange and damage the spindle lock.
How to remove clamping of the disc on an angle grinder
There are several ways that you can quickly remove a tightened clamp on an angle grinder.
Open-end wrench and socket head
If the safety catch is jammed on the angle grinder, you can unscrew it with a socket head and open-end wrench. It’s a universal method that works for most tool models. You can remove discs from bolt cutters from Bosch, Zubr, Interskol, Makit and Aeg using this method.
Before you use this method, you need to figure out which way to unscrew the angle grinder. There is really nothing complicated about this. The tools should rotate in opposite directions to each other. The wrench is set under the abrasive. The socket head is clamped on the flange. After turning these tools, the nut should easily unscrew. If it doesn’t start unscrewing, then you’ll have to use another method.
Heating the retainer
If the previous method has not helped to unscrew the nut and remove the fixed disk, it is possible to heat the clamp. This is a more effective way to remove the nut, which was able to tighten a lot during the operation of the angle grinder.
You can use a construction hair dryer or a torch to heat the fixing element. You need to unscrew the part as soon as it has been heated up. Only “hot” action can get rid of a tightened nut.
Additional information! This method is very effective indeed. However, you have to use it carefully. If you accidentally damage the tool body while heating it, you could damage the gearbox. In this case, you should repair or replace it for a new one.
Removing with a gas wrench
The gas wrench is a universal tool for unscrewing nuts In Makita tools, nuts can get so tight that they cannot be unscrewed even after heating. In such situations, you can try to break the lock with a gas wrench. It is much easier to get rid of a jammed part with this tool.
Using a gas wrench, you must carefully monitor the forces applied. Do not apply too much pressure on the tool. This way the retainer will not be damaged. If you accidentally damage it, you must use other methods of removing the disk clamp.
With a torch or drill in chisel mode
Many people do not know how to unscrew the nut on the angle grinder Calibre, if the disk is jammed. In this case, you can use a peorator or drill, which can work in chisel mode.
The main advantage of this method is that when using it it is impossible to damage the angle grinder. This is why this method is most often used to remove a nut that has been severely tightened.
To break the retainer, you need to insert a drill of 6-7 mm into the tool. It rests on the edge of the clamp. When the core bit is inserted, you have to switch it on for 2 to 3 seconds. This is enough to break the connection.
Further information! Make sure that the spindle of the angle grinder is firmly locked in place before you switch on the power tool.
Tapping out the nut
The chisel comes in handy during the knocking out of the retainer. This method is used only in extreme cases, when other methods did not help to get rid of the nut. To remove the retainer, prepare a chisel or a small iron bar in advance. After the spindle head is securely in place, tap gently on the edges of the clamping holes with a hammer. After a few taps the part should move aside. It can now be unscrewed with a normal wrench.
Do not tap with a hammer too hard, as this may damage the tool’s seating hole.
Destruction of the disc
Another way to get rid of the nut is to destroy the disk. You will need such tools for this:
First, you must jam the disc in a vise and break it with pliers. Then you need to put the iron sheet in a vice and turn on the angle grinder. It is necessary to turn the rotating wheel several times over the fixed sheet of metal. After that, the remains of the plate will collapse, and the nut will easily unscrew.
Causes of jamming
As a rule, such a problem occurs on the angle grinder with a diameter of the working surface in the range of 150-180 mm. When a strong torque is encountered, the disc bites. This makes it impossible to remove the nozzle with a conventional wrench, even with serious physical effort.
The second common cause is the use of an angle grinder disc that does not match the tool’s factory specifications. This will cause the whole mechanism to malfunction and become jammed. In rare cases, the nut will not unscrew if there is rust on its threads. It is most common when you use the tool for a long time or store it without changing the bit.
Important! angle grinder discs are available in various sizes with diameters ranging from 115 mm to 230 mm. The planting shaft itself is available in a diameter of 22.2 mm, for older models an adapter is required.
Breaking the lock with a torque wrench or drill
If the locking nut is too tight, it can be removed with a rotary tool or an electric drill in chisel mode. The advantage of this method is that the angle grinder in this case does not suffer, and improvement of any tools is not required. A 6-mm drill bit is inserted in the tool for the tear-off. It should be set against the edge of the clamp and the connection should be torn off by briefly engaging. The spindle of the angle grinder must be locked. This is probably the best way if the clamp does not yield to removal.
Jammed nut. how to unscrew it?
Remove the disc on the angle grinder if it is jammed, it is not so easy, especially without damaging the cutting element or the tool. There are also a few options to consider.
Replacing the disk with an opposite rotation
This method has several advantages. it can be done without a wrench and with a broken spindle lock. Those who are new to the angle grinder mistakenly believe that it is almost impossible to unscrew the nut if the retainer is broken. But this is far from it. You don’t even need keys.
The idea is that the abrasive wheel needs to be rotated in different directions. Wearing tight gloves, you need to repeatedly hit the cutting edge of the disk. This is how you ensure alternating motion in different directions. As a rule, a couple of strokes is enough to easily unscrew the nut.
With an open-jaw wrench and socket head
In this case you have to slightly modify the existing standard tools. a wrench for 17 and a socket head for 24 mm. The thickness of the spanner is ground to 4 mm. On the head, 4 protrusions are milled into the holes of the retaining nut.
After preparation, the wrench is placed in the space under the disc, and the head is put on the flange of the angle grinder and turned in the opposite direction to the rotation of the wheel. It can then be easily removed and replaced with a new one.
This is one way to remove the disc from the angle grinder without a wrench. Heat locking nut with an industrial hair dryer or a gas torch. The flange can then be unscrewed much more easily. However, there is a risk of damaging the plastic parts of the angle grinder or the gearbox.
Using a nail
A 100 mm nail is best for this purpose. It should be bent into a U-shape so that the ends fit into the holes of the clamping flange. Point and flat is removed. Insert a nail in the holes and unscrew the retainer. If the effort of the hands is not enough, then add a nail or screwdriver in the form of a lever.
Using a gas spanner
The application of this tool is justified by the increased torque of the applied force due to the extended arm. It is much easier to loosen a jammed connection with a torque wrench. However, when removing the jam, it is important to remember that if you apply too much force, there is a risk of damaging the spindle lock or the jam nut.
Use the rotary tool or drill in chisel mode
A drill or a rotary hammer is used to unscrew the disk on an angle grinder without a key. Suitable auger is used as a working head, usually 6 millimeters. Place the drill against the edge of the hole in the clamping nut, lock the movement of the spindle and move it by briefly turning it on. This method enables even very complicated jams to be unscrewed.
Tapping out the nut
This method is similar to the previous one, but it is possible to use a suitable metal bar or a chisel. After securing the spindle head, tap on the edges of the clamping holes in the direction of the wheel movement. You can unscrew it by hand by pushing it a little bit from the dead center. However, this method is not the most harmless for the tool. the mounting holes for a standard spanner are damaged.
Destruction of the cutting wheel
A jammed nut can be unscrewed by completely destroying the disc. If there is already damage, you can break it off by hand, but most often you can’t do that. It is better to take a hacksaw or metal blade and saw. This will leave you with a center ring and hard to reach pieces. Find a suitable plate, clamp it in a vise, and grind the rest of the abrasive against it to the metal ring. After that it can be easily unscrewed with a standard spanner.
The most radical way to unscrew a jammed jam nut is to saw it. It should only be used in extreme cases. Of course, you can find a new one, but you have to spend your time and money. It is not uncommon to have spare clamping elements included in the scope of delivery of an angle grinder.
Left-hand thread: how to define, mark on the drawings and where to use
The connection of parts and units in mechanisms by means of screw thread is one of the old common types of fasteners. Such an ingenious invention of mankind helps to solve many technical problems, starting from the ancient times. Separate parts of constructions to perform some specific functions without connecting to each other can not be brought to action. Nowadays it is impossible to imagine the operation of mechanisms without threaded connections, which are versatile and reliable, can be assembled and disassembled.
For fixing products with screws, bolts, nuts, studs and other elements, mainly right-hand thread is used. Such a threaded connection is observed when screws and self-tapping screws are screwed in. However, when there is a probability of unscrewing the part from the rotating shaft in the industry, a non-standard left-hand thread is used.
Differences between left-hand and right-hand threads
One of the main characteristics of a screw connection is the direction of the thread as the parts rotate. On the quality of connections, considered to be a responsible and important element, depends the full operation of the mechanism and the integrity of any construction.
Mechanics distinguish between two basic types of product fasteners. In standard threading, the lines of coils are removed toward the screw looking clockwise. In left-hand threading, the protrusions on the screw approach it from the left, moving counterclockwise.
Thus, the direction of rotation of the turns (spiral) on a screw makes it possible to distinguish right-hand thread from left-hand. On the hex of bolts, studs, nuts, and connectors, left-hand thread is marked with the letter L.
How to distinguish right-hand thread in fasteners?
There are simple ways in which the mechanically inexperienced can determine the type of threaded joint. To determine this visually, place the hairpin, screw or bolt in front of you with the bevel upward on the palm of your hand so that the helix with coils is looking at the observer.
Right-hand thread runs clockwise to the right from the end of the spiral. If the direction of the coils (spiral) is to the left, then the part is screwed counterclockwise to the left.
Left-hand threads are used in mechanical engineering to fasten parts to a shaft that rotates to the right. If the nut is screwed in the direction of rotation of the shaft, it will be tightened under the force of rotation. If screwed in the opposite direction, the nut will unscrew. Connection with a left-handed fastener prevents the possibility of unscrewing during machine operation.
To prevent unscrewing of connections
Here are simple examples of when such non-standard fasteners should be used:
- In assemblies and components rotating to the right, the mechanism can unscrew components if it is operated. The powerful rotational force of the mechanism unscrews the nut, so to prevent unscrewing, the left fastener is used in the direction of rotation of the shaft.
- Nipple at radiators of heating system has multidirectional thread. Connecting the coupling when twisting with a special wrench leads to tightening of the rubber gasket in the radiator sections.
- Wheels of GAZ, MAZ, ZIL trucks use left-hand mounting.
- Drill chuck with drill bit twists to the right. To prevent loosening of the connection of parts, the cartridge is attached to the shaft with a left-hand thread.
- Home fan blades.
- Gearbox transmits torque from motor to brushcutter blades.
- Bicycle pedals.
- Cutter mounting on the shaft, discs of grinders.
- Some parts in slicers and circular saws.
Here’s a picture of a housewife hanging out wet laundry on a rope to dry. The rope begins to sag from constant use. The tension for the laundry often has to be adjusted. In such cases, they use double-sided threaded bolts here. One side of the bolt goes to the right and the other side goes to the left. So in this case the left-hand thread is used to adjust the degree of tension.
The principle can be represented as follows: on one end of the nut, the right-hand thread is cut and on the other end, the left-hand thread is screwed in. Turning the nut to one side produces elongation, to the other side. shortening.
The use of left-handed fasteners in turnbuckle constructions is a prime example.
Such a device used in rigging works. turnbuckle refers to a kind of screw coupler. In this design, a pair of load-carrying elements acts. One has a standard thread and the other has a left-hand thread, respectively. When the structure is rotated during operation, the element body rotates, the tie is loosened, and changing the direction of rotation results in loading (tensioning). That is, as they rotate, the parts of the mechanism move away from each other or come together.
Masts on ships are installed with tensioning ropes.
To protect against dangerous actions
To protect against increased danger in some operations requires careful monitoring of working equipment. In the gas industry, the reducer valve of a compressed propane tank has a left-handed thread, and an oxygen tank has a right-handed thread. Therefore, it is not possible to connect a propane tank to an oxygen tank. Using such a method helps reduce the likelihood of unfortunate consequences.
Lubricate rusty threads
The famous WD-40 and its analogues. |
On nuts and bolts that don’t want to bind easily, you can apply one of the many lubricants. Car enthusiasts have a very popular penetrating oil like WD-40. By the way, it is very useful in solving other domestic problems.
Apply liberally penetrating oil to the mating surfaces of the parts, and leave it for a while. If the bolt or nut is very rusty, you can leave the “chemistry” to work overnight.
You can also moisten corroded parts with kerosene, thinner, plain water or Coca-Cola. These means also help a little.
How to remove the disk from the angle grinder with a wrench?
If the special key that came with the angle grinder is not lost, then cope with the task will be easier. Those who are interested in how to remove the disk with an angle grinder, experts advise to first fix the spindle. This is where the disk is located and is pressed down with the flange. It is disassembled with a wrench. To make this technically possible, the flanges are equipped with special holes into which the pins of the wrench are inserted.
To lock the spindle, you need to press the button, which is located on the housing on the back side of the disk. Do not loosen the safety catch with the impact wrench, otherwise the spindle will continue to turn. If the disc in the angle grinder turns clockwise, turn the wrench counterclockwise and vice versa. It is important that the flange must give way and move out of the way. Now it can be unscrewed completely and put aside. The old disc is then removed and replaced with a new one.
If you had to use a gas wrench, you must remember about the very powerful arm of such a wrench and the force applied to the parts of the “angle grinder“. If you are not careful, the spindle lock can be broken or the gearbox can be damaged.
All manipulations with the disc of the angle grinder must be performed with the power supply completely disconnected (the plug must be removed from the socket). Any accidental pressing of the start button will cause the electric motor to turn on, and the rotation speed of the rod is very high. Injuries in this case cannot be avoided.
Working with an angle grinder involves a lot of waste in the form of metal or wood shavings and dust. Before starting work, it is necessary to wear special protective glasses: they will protect your eyes from the splinters of the cutting wheel itself in case of its jamming and destruction.
Goggles are not only needed as a safety feature. If the eyes will be protected, you can pay more attention directly to the work of the “angle grinder”, to ensure proper cutting or selection of the correct mode of operation. It allows you to use consumables (cutting-off wheels) in the most efficient way, minimizes emergence of abnormal situations with disc jamming or its destruction.
A mask that completely covers your face is an excellent substitute for glasses; it is especially important for a visually impaired craftsman who wears dioptric glasses, on which safety glasses cannot be worn.
Disc on “angle grinder” can be set as “on itself”, and “on itself” depending on the direction of rotation and, accordingly, the flow of shavings. There is no fundamental difference in operation. However, an “angle grinder” with a “on itself” wheel tends to jump out of the cut forwards, rather than towards the person using it, when the wheel jams. This is especially important with high-powered tools, but a small angle grinder can also pose serious dangers.
A specially assembled extension cord with a plug, preferably without grounding, helps to quickly stop the machine that has torn out of hand.
“The angle grinder is a coarse tool, and you should not strive to get a perfect surface as a result of its work, the main thing is to make a rough cut, which later, if necessary, can be processed by other means.
To work without clamps and jamming it is better not to cut long metal workpieces to the end, leaving 1-2 mm of metal in the cut: they will be easy to break off afterwards, it will have almost no effect on the quality of the workpiece.
Small workpieces are better placed in a vise or clamped to a workbench or other reliable horizontal surface. Both cutting quality and safety depend on the tightness of the hold-down.
To change the disc on the angle grinder need to unscrew the fixing washer.
The fixing washer, as a rule, comes with special grooves, and you can unscrew it only with the appropriate wrench, which is usually included in the set of each angle grinder.
On some angle grinder as a fixing set of conventional nuts, which can be unscrewed with a wrench.
To unscrew the locking washer, the slot in the washer must be reached with an angle grinder.
On the other side of the angle grinder press the locking button to fix the rotor in a fixed position.
Then you need to turn the key counterclockwise.
This is how to unscrew the fastener, then replace the old disc with a new one.
After positioning the new disc in its place, first screw in the locking washer by hand, and then tighten it with the wrench.
The angle grinder is now “charged” with a new disc and you can start working.
What causes the problem?
And so when the process of tightening the flange for fixing is completed, we have an out-of-the-box situation on our face. Its appearance will be influenced by the following factors:
- the size of the disc.
- Very high power of the power tool.
- the size of the rotor.
- Sudden increase in depth of cutting, t.е. The resistance increases.
In this case, you should remove the disc from the angle grinder, but it can be very difficult to do. Additional measures have to be taken here.
To choose the right angle grinder, you need to know exactly what it will be used for, and how often it will be used.
Amateur and professional models. There is a big difference between these tools. Professional models can work continuously throughout the working day. All of the equipment is well made, and the device is comfortable to hold in your hand. Also models have a number of additional functions. An amateur grinder can not work long without interruption: its motor overheats quickly. The manufacturer saves on the quality of the housing and individual parts. Such devices have no additional useful functions. But such an angle grinder is quite budget-friendly.
Disc diameter. There is a recommended disc diameter for each type of work:
- Small jobs: grinding, cutting thin metal, plastic or slate. 115 mm;
- Small jobs: grinding, cutting pipes, tiles, stone and polishing surfaces. 125 mm;
- cutting stones, steel and concrete. It is inconvenient to do small work with such a disc. 150 mm;
- professional tasks: construction work, cutting thick pipes and concrete. 180 mm;
- heavy-duty work: construction work with heavy materials. 230 mm.
The size of the cutting wheel affects power, weight and choice of material with which it will work.
Motor power. The higher the motor power, the easier it is to cut through hard material. The 600 watt angle grinder is well suited for light-duty jobs. For heavy, complex work, it is better to choose an angle grinder from 1000W.
Spinning speed of the disc. The decisive factor in selecting a angle grinder is the wheel speed. Your choice should stop at the optimal, for a particular task, speed. A good bonus would be to buy a grinder with a speed regulator.
The handle should rest firmly in your hand, be comfortable and easy to grip. When you polish a surface, the device clings and pulls out of your hands. To make it easier to hold, manufacturers screw in a second pull handle.
Replaceable discs and accessories. The choice of discs depends on the application for which the angle grinder is intended. There are discs for cutting, sanding, smoothing and polishing.
Type of power supply. There are two types of power supply: mains and battery. It is best to buy an angle grinder powered from the network: battery-powered quickly run down.
Based on these criteria, you can choose the ideal angle grinder for your application.
How to install it correctly?
Installing a disk on a power washer is not that difficult. You can change it by simply following the instructions, although there are nuances.
First of all, you must install the disc with the correct side. This is especially important if it is a cutoff disc. Usually, the side of a disc with a label showing the marking and therefore its application, is slightly different from the other side. It may not be revealed immediately, but with prolonged intensive work the difference will not only be noticeable. it will be obvious.
On the side where the label is affixed, there is a wide pressure washer that is affected by the moving nut during screwing in (inserting the disk). The nut slides on the polished surface of the washer, without it it will be harder to torque or unscrew because the abrasive will hold firmly on the nut and more force is needed. This is particularly important if the disc is to be replaced quickly or if it has broken (jammed).
There is always a chance of disc failure, but installed correctly, it breaks only under heavy loads, the structure of discs takes into account the difference of loads on both sides.
With circular saws or other products that have teeth or a significant difference of two sides, the problem of how to mount, usually does not arise. For example, to fix a grinding disk in reverse will not work: it simply will not work.
Discs for stone, including diamond, have a special indicator of rotation in the form of an arrow: installing them, you must take into account where the rod will rotate.
When mounting, it is also important to consider the size of the blade. Safety should never be neglected and the blade guard should not be removed. it is better to choose a blade with an appropriate diameter. Sometimes a disc from a large machine is used for a “angle grinder” of smaller dimensions. However, a worn disc tends to cut worse, the working surface is limited to about half the radius of the disc, the structure is slightly different. The disk “burns up” faster and does less work. This operation may be justified if the rod diameter is the same. But you won’t be able to change it back.
Do not insert any debris under the disk during installation. Of course, the clamping nut can squeeze the small objects, something will be pressed into the surface of the circle. But imperceptible to the eye skew will cause a shift of the plane of rotation, and as a consequence, a strong vibration of the mechanism, it can cause disc destruction, and, of course, you should not hope for an accurate cut in such a case.
Before installing the disc “angle grinder” should be disconnected from the network. this is a basic safety requirement, as the sudden inclusion at this time, fraught with the risk of serious injury.
The clamping nut should be unscrewed with the wrench that comes with the tool. To prevent the rod from spinning, it must be blocked by pressing a special button. Unscrew the nut while holding the button depressed.
After twisting the nut, the disc is put on the released rod, with the front side outward, and it is necessary to make sure that it is set exactly on the seat.
In the kit to the new “angle grinder” always includes a number of cardboard pads. when installing the disc they must be placed so that they are between the disc and the clamping elements. These spacers will help unscrew a broken or jammed disc.
Then, the nut is screwed by hand until it stops and is tightened with the special wrench. That’s it, the “angle grinder” is ready to work.
Is there a significant difference from the direction of rotation
The direction of rotation can be reversed, both toward and away from you. These variants have advantages and disadvantages. If the abrasive is placed away from you, then sparks and dust fly at the operator, which creates inconvenience in the work. There is also a risk of burns to the eyes and burning of clothing.
Sparks when working with the angle grinder
If the disk rotates on itself, then you can get rid of these disadvantages. But in this case there is a risk of serious injury. If the abrasive is jammed while working, the tool will hit the operator’s hands or face hard.
There is no single rule for setting rotation, and if it is important, the information should be listed on the tool itself. In any case, the direction of the machine must choose the operator himself depending on the material to be processed, as well as for his convenience.
The information provided is enough to understand which side to put the disc on the angle grinder and why it is important to set the abrasive correctly.