Why does the chainsaw get hot? The engine or the tire can warm up. in any case, a small amount of lubricant is to blame.
- Engine overheating. Incorrect proportion of fuel mixture or pure gasoline in general. Drain the fuel and mix with the correct proportions of oil and gasoline as indicated by the manufacturer.
- Overheating of the tire. It is necessary to clean or adjust the oil pump because oil is supplied to the tire.
The chain does NOT rotate
Why the chainsaw chain does not rotate when the engine is running even at full speed?
- Leading asterisk. Either it is jammed, or the wear ring is so much that it does NOT engage and the chain is spinning on the chainsaw. In any case, it is necessary to disassemble the sprocket in order to find out the exact reason why the chain does not spin. If the crown is worn out, it is necessary to replace the sprocket (or the crown itself, if the sprocket is of a prefabricated structure).
- The chain brake is seized. As a result, the sprocket is blocked by the brake mechanism, while the motor runs. Stop the engine and release the brake. If this happened under load, the brake mechanism will have to be changed, as well as the sprocket, because due to high temperature, many elements can melt and overheat.
Shoots the carburetor:
- Ignition too late. the air-fuel mixture DOES NOT have time to burn out in the cylinder, so a sound similar to a small explosion is obtained.
- Lean air-fuel mixture. Too little gasoline enters the mixture. adjusting the chainsaw, or rather the jets, is required to increase the fuel supply. Why the chainsaw thrusts itself. for the same reason.
Stalls immediately after launch:
- The fuel mixture is not prepared correctly, there is too much oil in it, so the octane number of gasoline is less than it should be, so the chainsaw only works on suction or immediately stalls.
- Spark plug carbon deposits or improper spark plug-to-manual gap.
The engine “shoots
If during operation there are extraneous sounds similar to shots, then there is a problem with the muffler or carburetor. How to make the chainsaw run quietly? It depends on which node the fault is in.
It stalls and does not work at idle:
- Forgotten the muffler. It is necessary to remove carbon deposits.
- Lost carburetor settings. Idling adjustment required on the chainsaw. It is carried out using the adjusting bolts marked L and H. How to adjust the idle speed, see the article on adjusting the carburetor.
If there are difficulties with starting a chainsaw, many immediately sin on the carburetor. In fact, there are several options and any prerequisite for a malfunction can be:
- Clogged air and / or fuel filters. The problem is solved by cleaning the filters.
- Lack of fuel in the tank. Yes, there is such a reason. some owners forget about such an insignificant detail as refueling a chainsaw and think that a couple of liters of gasoline will last for six months. In addition, the fuel in the tank does not have to be stored for more than 14 days, because gasoline evaporates and octane number is lost.
- Check the pipe from the fuel tank to the carburetor. it could be forgotten or cut off, so gasoline does not enter the tank.
- Spark plug present. Why there is no spark. there can be many reasons: there is no contact, you need to change the candle or it is flooded. Why he pours a candle on a chainsaw is another question. But if this happens, you need to dry and reinstall, and then check for a spark. If the spark plug has Heavy carbon deposits, it is recommended to replace it.
- Check muffler for carbon deposits. If there is carbon deposits, thoroughly clean the muffler, but it is still recommended to take the chainsaw to a service center to check the cylinder and piston there, because carbon deposits are a sure sign of improper operation of the elements of the cylinder-piston group.
- Forgotten carburetor. How to properly adjust the chainsaw so that the carburetor works well was discussed in a separate article.
If none of the above methods helped, then the reason is more serious. the breakdown of one of the nodes of the connecting rod-piston group. In this case, it is recommended to take the chainsaw to a service center.
Shoots the muffler:
- Enriched air-fuel mixture. Why does the chainsaw “shoot”? There is too much gasoline and too little air in the mixture, so the mixture does not completely burn out in the chamber and partially burns out in the muffler. Exhaust carbon is a clear sign of this. Air filter cleaning or carburetor adjustment required.
The engine starts, but the chainsaw stalls at idle or under load. In this case, most often you should perform the same actions as described above.
How to adjust your chainsaw depends on exactly when the problems start:
How to keep your chainsaw quiet?
Before finding answers to this question, you need to figure out why the gasoline tool began to work louder.
Signs and causes of this problem include:
- Harsh shooting sounds or a stable increase in volume when revving with a standard engine. a problem with the carburetor;
- Periodic knocking sound. contact of adjacent parts;
- A howling sound from the drive side. excessive wear on the drive sprocket;
- Loud whistling noises. inertial brake problems.
If none of THESE malfunctions exist and the operator just wants to reduce the noise of the running motor, then this can be done by replacing the standard muffler.
For this, prefabricated units from professional chainsaws are best suited. They are designed to muffle the loudest sounds, so they will effectively cope with the normalization of the volume of the internal combustion engine of less powerful chainsaws.
Why clamps the chain on a chainsaw?
The reasons that the chain is spinning on the chainsaw. Damage to the drive sprocket and burning of the guide bar tip may result. The first step is to inspect the clutch. If uneven tooth wear, cracks or other defects are observed on the drive sprocket, then the sprocket must be replaced.
If, after that, the chainsaw chain wedges and breaks, then you need to inspect the tire. Burning of its tip, as well as any other part of the guide, leads to increased heating and displacement of the chain. During rotation on the tire, the headset displaced to the side wedges. This is evidenced by cases in which the chain is stretched on the chainsaw exactly in those places where the operator previously detected burning and melting of the guide.
The reason for the blade to burn is most often a breakdown of the cutting attachment lubrication system. In this case, it is necessary to carefully inspect the oil pump, and also flush it from debris or cured grease.
Problems with starting the engine
It is very important to correctly determine the cause of the malfunction, because otherwise we simply cannot eliminate it. There is a chainsaw, almost new, the engine works fine, but DO NOT cut the chain. You give gas. the engine reacts, but then it tries to stall, because I am not a specialist on how to make it myself. By the way, the chain spins tightly, but the chain does NOT work. Bus circuit NOT. If, when trying to start the chainsaw, there are no extraneous sounds of comments (knocking, grinding, etc.), then very often it turns out that there is actually a breakdown. For example, if the chainsaw does not start correctly and pull on the suction for a long time, then the engine simply floods and it is very difficult to start it.
In order to properly start a cold chainsaw engine, set the lever or switch to the closed position. Then you need to pump the mixture into the carburetor, if a fuel pump is available. Pull the starter handle until the engine resistance is felt, and vigorously pull the arm out to the side in amplitude. After two or three such movements, the engine must first start and then stall. If this does not happen, then it is necessary to move the lever to the half-throttle position or simply to the working position and continue to start the chainsaw in this mode. In many chainsaws, the “half-throttle” is fixed automatically when the air damper is pulled. Some models have an ignition rocker switch, it is important to make sure it is on.
If the engine does not start, the first thing to do is Unscrew and inspect the spark plug. When idling, the chain does not have to move; the chainsaw will lose power or but not. There are cases, at the plant in the cold season, the combustion chamber is poured with fuel. Then you also need to Unscrew the candle, dry the combustion chamber with an idle plant, clean the candle, screw it in and start again. If the pump does not work on the chainsaw, the chain will NOT turn as a result. It is advisable to immediately check for the presence of a spark. we put it on a cap with a high-voltage wire on the twisted candle, put it on the cylinder and pull the starter. Visually we can see the blue Spark treat. good. We screw the candle into place and start. If there are sparks, change the candle and try again. Again there. we check the connection of the high-voltage wire to the candle, the coil and the ignition system.
In general, the state of the candle can be used to judge the type of malfunction.
- Dry. Most likely, the fuel mixture does NOT enter the cylinder. It’s not about the ignition system, so the plug is twisted back and the fuel supply system is checked.
- Wet, heavily splashed with fuel. The reason for the excess fuel mixture lies either in the violation of the starting rules, as described above, or in the incorrect adjustment of the carburetor.
- Covered with black carbon. This may indicate the use of low-quality oil, in an incorrectly adjusted carburetor or in an incorrectly calculated ratio of gasoline and oil. The candle should be washed, cleaned of carbon deposits with a sharp object (awl or needle), wipe the electrodes with a sandpaper and put in place.
When checking the candle, you must Pay attention to the gap between the electrodes: it is considered normal from 0.5 to 0.65 mm. A damaged or worn gasket must be replaced.
How to adjust a chainsaw?
The carburetor is one of the most important elements of the chainsaw, the main function of which is to enrich the fuel with air and instantly supply the finished mixture to the cylinder of the power unit.
The following symptoms indicate carburetor malfunctions:
- Problems with starting a gasoline saw. it takes more effort to turn on the motor than usual;
- Unstable operation of the internal combustion engine in different modes. interruptions are noticeable when the engine rotates at idle speed, as well as when switching to low and high speeds;
- A sharp increase in the volume of fuel consumed. on average, the amount of fuel increases by 20-30%;
- An increase in the amount of emitted exhaust gases. the volumes of gases increase by 50-60%, and the vapors themselves acquire a dark blue, brown or black color.
Chainsaw adjustment must be carried out on a completely serviceable and stable engine. Before starting the adjustment, you will need to rinse or replace the filter, check the integrity of the fuel pipes, and also make sure that there are no burrs and other damage on the surface of the cylinder and other parts of the power unit of the chainsaw.
For the possibility of self-adjustment of the chain gasoline tool, steel spring-loaded screws are provided in the device of its carburetor. Their number and labeling depend on the manufacturer of the chainsaw.
The procedure for adjusting the fuel assembly for most chainsaws looks almost the same.
The algorithm of actions should be as follows:
- First, you need to drown out the dust and wait for its internal combustion engine to cool;
- After that, all the screws available in the device of its carburetor must be tightened in the direction of the clock hand until it stops;
- Then each of the screws must be returned a fourth or fifth of a turn in the opposite direction;
- Next, you need to configure the operation of the power unit at low speeds. To do this, the corresponding screw will need to start turning slowly in different directions. As soon as the motor starts to work as quietly and stably as possible, the screw must be left;
- To adjust the idle speed of your chainsaw. Necessary Pay attention to the chain. If it rotates on the tire, then it is necessary to find the position of the screw at which it will stand still;
- In the end, it remains to adjust the operation of the internal combustion engine at high speeds. To do this, you will need to connect a tachometer to the engine cylinder and start rotating the corresponding screw until the readings on the instrument scale and the instructions in the operating instructions do NOT match. For example, if the manual for the dust indicates that its maximum speed should be 12,500 rpm, then the same number should be indicated on the tachometer scale during adjustment.
To check the operation of the chainsaw after adjustment, you must turn it off and wait for the engine to cool completely. After that, you need to start the engine and begin to smoothly squeeze the throttle lever. If at the same time the power unit is gradually gaining speed, then the saw adjustment has been performed correctly.
Chainsaw engine malfunctions
Here are the various irregularities in the operation of the chainsaw engine, which occur most often. The main such malfunctions are reduced to the following symptoms:
The engine does NOT start (quite general and the reasons can be quite different)
Starts up, but often stalls;
DOES NOT develop power, i.E. Works normally at idle, but stalls or slugs under load.
Smokes a lot, power drops.
Why is pouring a candle on a chainsaw?
In most cases, a breakdown or clogging of the carburetor is a prerequisite for filling a spark plug. To disassemble, inspect and flush it, the fuel assembly will need to be removed.
For this you need:
- Unscrew the 3 metal screws and remove the protective plastic cover;
- Carefully remove the upper foam part of the air filter. In this case, you need to inspect the filter element and make sure that there is no need to flush or replace it;
- Dismantle the fuel hose, being careful NOT to break it or humus it;
- Remove the drive rod;
- Carefully disconnect the gasoline supply pipe and the tip of the standard cable.
After disassembling the carburetor, you will need to inspect its membrane. It must be whole and elastic. If the surface of the membrane has time to coarse, then most likely this is what caused the filling of the candle.
Other defective carburetor elements must also be replaced, and the remaining old parts must be rinsed in clean gasoline. After the parts are completely dry, you need to assemble the fuel unit and install it on the chainsaw in the reverse order.
3) Chainsaw malfunction: The clutch often “slips”, from time to time the spring bursts.
Fault background: Chainsaw clutch wear.
Chainsaw repair in artisanal conditions: changing the chainsaw clutch assembly.
The chain does NOT spin on the chainsaw / on the brake / consequences
We analyze the consequences of using a chainsaw with the brake on. And general tips for caring for benzo.
The chainsaw is running and the chain is NOT spinning
A modern gasoline chain saw consists of certain mechanisms, the performance and efficiency of the tool when cutting different types of wood depend on the serviceability and well-coordinated work of which. Each of the saw units stands out for its service life, after which the tool must be repaired. You can do this yourself, having previously studied common breakdowns and how to fix them yourself.
Rapid Micro Chain Series
The Rapid Micro range of chains includes about 10 types, each of which has an average of three versions with different characteristics of the pitch and width. The Rapid Micro series combines tooth shape and steel quality. They are Recommended for use on Stihl Chainsaws working in agriculture (semi-professional). Short designation RM.
3/8 “P Picco Super (PS) 1.3mm
The Picco Super is, according to the manufacturer, the first chain in the world to have a chisel tooth. Designed by Stihl specifically for forestry professionals. Easy penetration, comfortable vibration and smooth running. It features a clean cutting surface, which is important for those who are engaged in woodcarving with a chainsaw. Execution options:
- 3/8 in P Picco Super 1.3 mm (44)
- 3/8 ” P Picco Super, 1.3mm (50)
- 3/8 in P Picco Super 1.3 mm (55).
Can be used with both professional, semi-professional and household chainsaws.
3/8 “Rapid Duro Rescue (RDR) 1.6mm
This is a special Stihl chain for emergency rescue operations, in our country it has received the nickname “Supertooth”. Due to the victorious soldering on the cutting edge of the tooth, wood with nails, glass, brick and other building materials can be dusty. Where the most difficult conditions and the usual chain will be helpless, Rapid Duro Rescue (RDR) will do everything as quickly as possible.
It has a length of 72 teeth, it is NOT available in other versions, it is recommended for use on saws for rescue operations, for example, the Stihl MS 461 R with a power of 4.4 kW. The price of Rapid Duro recommended by the manufacturer from 9060 rubles.
All the that we announced in the article are taken from the official website of the company.
We offer to look. Which shows the comparison test for Stihl saw chains. In English, but it shows that a concrete insert is poured into the trunk of the tree on which the cutting speed test is carried out. A regular headset does NOT cope even with three cuts, while a special headset makes more than 10 cuts and remains operational.
Which rip saw chain to use
Here are the users of chainsaws, the question is often asked: which chain is suitable for ripping sawing and is there a chain specially designed for THESE purposes.
With the help of a straightening machine, you can make a special one from an ordinary headset. to facilitate a longitudinal cut. You can find information on how exactly this is done on our website.
Sharpening machine Stihl
A little about the Stihl sharpener. Today the USG machine is presented on the official website of the company. The sharpening on the machine works automatically, and the feed is carried out manually. The machine is capable of sharpening Not only the cutting edge of the working tooth, but also the depth gauge, which is impossible on similar competitors’ machines. For more information about the Stihl sharpening machine and its work, see.
3/8 “P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm
A distinctive feature is a very narrow kerf. Abbreviation PMM3. It is recommended for entry-level chainsaws as well as pole and brush cutters. Has three versions:
- 3/8 “P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm (39);
- 3/8 “P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm (44)
- 3/8 “P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm (50).
Can be used on Chainsaw Stihl МС 170, 180, 211, 230. Belongs to the comfort class, because it has minimal vibration and recoil.
Important: a chain with a width of 1.1 mm must be used with an appropriate bar, otherwise, it will dangle in the seat, which will lead to rapid wear of both the headset itself and the guide bar.
1/4 “P Picco Micro 3 (PM3), 1.1mm
Recommended especially for pole saws and compact chainsaws, for example, MS 150 TC-E or MS 193 T. Considered exclusive as it has NOT a standard pitch of 1/4 “, narrow and flat design. It has three versions, the length of which is 56, 64 or 72 links.
Stihl chains overview: marking, purpose
All Stihl chains are marked so that they can be identified and identified for which chainsaw models and types of work they are intended.
The name of the chain model must indicate its length (number of links), pitch and width. The type is also indicated. Type is an internal corporate designation, thanks to which the company’s specialists can determine the type and shape of the cutting tooth, the dimensions of the link and connecting elements. The designation can be complete, or it can be abbreviated in capital letters, for example, the Picco Micro 3 chain, will be abbreviated as PM3.
Usually, the user does not need such information, in principle, since K. In order to choose the right headset, it is enough to know the characteristics of the chainsaw, the planned volume and types of work.
For the convenience of choosing, the Stihl website has an electronic consultant who automatically generates a list of chains suitable for a particular model of chainsaw.
The service is convenient and straightforward, but it has one big drawback, you can select chains only for Stihl chainsaws. If you have another chainsaw, then you will have to look for characteristics and name, which is not very convenient, since the list of models is quite large.
Below we suggest watching a short, but interesting and informative about Stihl chains, their production process and quality control.
Now we will consider specific models of Stihl chains, their marking, characteristics and purpose.
Reasons for the rupture of the saw headset
Sometimes, while using a chainsaw, the headset may break. This phenomenon is NOT common, but does occur from time to time. There may be several reasons, the first and the most common is Severe wear. In the process of work, the edges rub against the tire, as a result, the metal is gradually erased and the chain, and not withstanding the load, breaks.
The second reason is the untimely replacement of the drive sprocket and the guide bar or their replacement separately. According to the recommendations given by the manufacturers, the saw headset, the bar and the drive sprocket must be changed as a set. This will prevent wear, stretching and tearing due to increased loads.
Third, this is a marriage when sharpening with a special sharpening machine. The disc of the machine rotates at high speeds and if the depth of the groove is set incorrectly or for some reason the working stroke of the machine increases, then a fraction of a second is enough to cut the edges of the connecting link. If, after sharpening, you DO NOT check its quality and the presence of cut links, then during operation under load, the cut link may break.
Fourth and last, there is a defect in the rivets. A common prerequisite for chain breaks is improper connection or reuse of connecting links. If your cutting headset is torn, information on how to connect the chain will be very useful.
After it has been determined that no oil is supplied, further diagnostics is possible only if the oil system is completely removed. Of course, in some situations, changing the filter helps, but this is very rare.
Lubrication system malfunctions and how they are eliminated
The main malfunctions of the oil supply system on a chainsaw can be divided into two main types, these are general malfunctions inherent in all chainsaws and individual ones, which may differ depending on the type of pump and worm gear installed on a particular model. Let’s start sorting out faults in order.
Lubrication system device
Depending on the brand of the chainsaw, the details of the lubrication system may differ slightly in design, but their total number and connection diagram remains unchanged.
The main components of the lubrication system are:
- The oil tank is usually located in the crankcase.
- Filter element, installed in the tank.
- The oil line is a small diameter oil-resistant rubber hose.
- The heart of the system is the oil pump.
- Worm gear gear transmission force from engine to pump.
- A chainsaw tire, it can also be considered an element of the lubrication system, since it has special holes for supplying oil, by the way, the chain itself participates in the transportation of oil and, accordingly, also has some elements designed specifically to provide lubrication.
Principle of operation
The main unit of the system is the pump. The principle of its operation is as follows. With an increase in engine speed, a gear mounted on the main shaft drives the pump shaft through a worm gear. In turn, the rotation of the shaft creates a certain pressure in the oil line, which forces the oil to move along it towards the tire.
The end of the oil channel is located at the point of contact of the tire with the tool housing, where there is a longitudinal groove, on which, when the tire is installed, its oil channel falls.
The groove is necessary to ensure the supply of oil to the tire, regardless of the chain tension of the chainsaw. Simply put, no matter what position the tire is in at the time of operation, oil will get onto it through the groove.
Further, a chain is included in the lubrication process, on the links of which, depending on the model of the chain, there is either a groove or a hole through which the oil is accelerated throughout the tire. As the engine speed increases, the oil flow rate also increases.
Some models of chainsaws are equipped with pumps, which additionally have a capacity adjustment, and if necessary, the amount of oil supplied by the lubrication system can be increased or decreased.
This function is quite convenient as it allows you to save money and does not waste extra oil.
Individual malfunction of the Stihl MS 180 lubrication system
In view of the fact that Stihl MS 180 is one of the most common models of chainsaws, I would like to dwell on one inherent only malfunction and describe a way to eliminate it without replacing parts.
Quite often, on the Stihl MS 180 Chainsaw, it is observed that the oil line is depressurized in the place where the oil line from the tank is installed in the saw body. The malfunction can be determined by the characteristic grease leakage on the bottom of the tool.
To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the chainsaw handle, remove the hose from the bore, clean and degrease. After all THESE manipulations, apply sealant to the hose seat and install it in the chainsaw body.
For more information on troubleshooting and full diagnostics of the lubrication system of the Stihl chainsaw, you can find out by looking. Which step by step captures the process of disassembling and repairing the lubrication system.
Chainsaw chain lubrication system
To supply oil for lubricating the chainsaw chain, a special pump is used in the tool, which is dosed, depending on the number of engine revolutions, supplies lubricant to the saw bar.
The system uses oil to lubricate the chainsaw chain, which has increased adhesive properties, this is necessary to evenly distribute the oil around the entire perimeter of the tire and keep it on it even at high chain speeds. Let’s take a closer look at the oil supply system implemented in modern chainsaws.
Chainsaw chain lubrication system
One of the fundamental chainsaw systems, without which work is impossible, is the forced lubrication system of the chainsaw chain. It’s not a secret for anyone that at the time the saw is operating, the chain friction against the tire of the chainsaw, which causes it to heat up and premature wear. To soften friction, the chain mechanism must be constantly Lubricated.
Most common malfunctions
- Broken oil hose. It can sometimes be detected by visual inspection. The problem is solved by replacing the defective part.
- Lack of threads on the oil pump shaft, replacing it will help.
- Defective thread on the pump drive gear is similarly solved by installing a new part.
- No corkscrew of the main shaft (relevant for Some models of tools, for example, Homelite). You can fix it by installing instead of the native corkscrew, suitable for the diameter of the studs, cutting it to the required length.
- Blockage in the line. Can be removed by blowing with compressed air or mechanically using a wire of suitable diameter.
- Clogged filter element.
- In the Stihl MS 180, the pump of which is not separable, it often clogs. You can try to rinse in clean gasoline if it does not help replace.
- In Chinese chainsaws (Gypsy), very often cuts off the grooves on the main gear, through which the force from the asterisk is transmitted to it.
Signs of a malfunction of the lubrication system, checking its performance
- Chainsaw chain is dry and has a pale shade without shine.
- Shodo chain stretches quickly.
- The tire is very hot and can even partially melt the paint.
- The oil from the tank is practically NOT reduced.
- Decreased cutting efficiency on a sharp chain
All these signs indicate that the lubrication process is not working properly. In order to check the oil supply by the lubrication system, it is necessary to remove the side tire of the chainsaw and start it. Further, you need to slightly increase the speed while observing the place where the oil line ends. If oil is flowing in, it is most likely that there is not enough oil for proper lubrication and the filter needs to be cleaned or replaced and, if possible, adjusted the flow. In the case when it is NOT received, the problem is more serious and requires further diagnosis.
There is a way to check the oil supply without removing the tires. To do this, it is necessary to direct the end of the tire towards, for example, a freshly sawn block from the cutting side and increase the speed as much as possible, while trying to keep the end of the tire NOT more than 10 cm from the block. If oily spots begin to appear on its surface, it means that oil is being supplied.