What Kind Of Oil To Pour Into The Vibrating Plate

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How to choose oil for BMW, what kind of oil to pour?

Now let’s try to answer the questions of concern to almost all motorists: which oil to choose? Can they be mixed? How do I change the oil? Do I need to flush the engine when changing it? Which oil to choose?

What you need to know about synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral oils.

Mineral oil is a product of crude oil processing, but the quality of the oil is practically independent of the quality of the oil itself. And it depends on the additives that are used in processing and have been developed for more than sixty years. Some oils began to be called semi-synthetic due to the use of a large number of additives. Oils are also obtained by processing mineral oil (this method is called hydrocracking synthesis). It is believed that such oils are both mineral and semi-synthetic, but the second statement is incorrect.

For the production of semi-synthetic oils, synthetic and mineral bases are mixed. And directly synthetics are obtained from refined products (polyesters, for example). But all this belongs to the field of chemistry, and we are more interested in physical properties, and in particular the question of what to choose. The disadvantages of mineral oils, which economical motorists love so much, immediately become clear. But they are not able to fulfill all the requirements of high-tech engines. After all, oil should not only be a lubricant, but also it should cool engine parts, be protection against corrosion, not foaming, and destroy wear products. And at the same time have a sufficiently long service life. With mineral oils, BMW engines quickly heat up and wear out, as the oil loses its properties in a short period of time. The most difficult thing when choosing will be those car owners whose cars are over 15 years old and have high mileage. They use mineral oils, arguing that the engine uses synthetic oil like gasoline, that is, in large quantities, which is not very profitable from the financial side. In this case, gaskets and seals should be changed, since this oil is light-flowing, and not more liquid, it has exactly the viscosity that is indicated in the recommendations. But, if you yourself know that the car will not last long and there is no point in investing in it, then continue using mineral oils, BMW engines are quite tenacious. In this case, you can simply constantly top up the oil without changing it. For such car owners, the main criterion for choosing an oil is its price.

Sometimes this choice is argued by a record in some ancient manual, in which it is recommended to use something like 15W-40. But technologies are developing!

Those owners who have not experienced any problems with the engine often say that they used different oils and did not see any difference. How did you want to notice her? The car did not get better, the flow rate is still the same as always. But when, instead of 300,000 km, you drive 1,500,000 to the capital, then you will feel the difference. Derby is a good example of the positive effects of a higher grade oil.

Now about some amateur chemistry activities.

Why, for example, can’t you mix 4 mineral water and a liter of synthetics in order to increase the frost resistance of the oil? And why do manufacturers strongly discourage mixing single-class oils from different manufacturers and do it only in extreme cases?

The fact is that the bases of the oils are different and their incompatibility is possible, which can lead to various problems, for example, the appearance of foam or sedimentation. But even more additives may not be combined with each other. If you add them yourself (which is highly discouraged in BMW), then add no more than 250 ml per 4 liters of oil, otherwise the oil will change its characteristics of a pure product. Currently, manufacturers sometimes bring up to one third the amount of additives in oils, but their compatibility and balance has been achieved by professionals.

Additives from different manufacturers may be incompatible, and when oils are mixed, they will violate the harmony of the elements (since manufacturers can focus on different properties).

Usually, an oil change is required every 8-13 thousand kilometers, and when you have such a time, we follow the following points: buy a filter and oil, drive into a pit, warm the engine, turn off, drain the old oil, change the filter, fill in new oil ( do not forget to tighten the plug), check the level (it should be somewhere in the middle). Start the car, the oil pressure light should go out. If not extinguished, then we muffle and start again. When it goes out, check the level again. Top up if necessary. That’s all.

To be completely frank, the manufacturer does not recommend doing this. But he also cannot recommend, since he previously recommends using high-quality oils, with which flushing is not required. They wash new engines or after a major overhaul, but this is somewhat different. It’s more just a run-in: they pour three liters of mineral oil, drive three thousand kilometers on it, then change the filter and oil. But manufacturers do not always take into account the conditions of real life.

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Let’s say that you bought a BMW off hand, and the person who owned it before you used mineral water, after which significant deposits remained. This situation is being solved quite radically. Remove the pan and valve cover, unscrew the oil receiver. Remove deposits as much as possible, wash the cover and pan with solvent or gasoline, and ignite the oil receiver mesh on the fire. Remove any remaining dirt. Assemble the engine, fill in high-quality mineral oil. Drive it up to 3,000 kilometers and 150 kilometers before changing the oil, fill in the Aspect-modifier (this is flushing). Next, the usual oil change, but fill in the normal one. Further flushing is not required, high-quality oil will do its job by itself.

If you decide to change from one oil to another, flushing is not required. Of course, it is not recommended to change the brand of oil every time, but if you use different oils from the same manufacturer in summer and winter, this will not cause big problems. Still, it’s best not to change the brand.

How to choose oil for BMW, what kind of oil to pour?

Now let’s try to answer the questions that concern almost all motorists: which oil to choose? Can they be mixed? How do I change the oil? Do I need to flush the engine when changing it? Which oil to choose?

What you need to know about synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral oils.

Mineral oil is a product of crude oil processing, but the quality of the oil is practically independent of the quality of the oil itself. And it depends on the additives that are used in processing and have been developed for more than sixty years. Some oils began to be called semi-synthetic due to the use of a large number of additives. Oils are also obtained by processing mineral oil (this method is called hydrocracking synthesis). It is believed that such oils are both mineral and semi-synthetic, but the second statement is incorrect.

For the production of semi-synthetic oils, synthetic and mineral bases are mixed. And directly synthetics are obtained from refined products (polyesters, for example). But all this belongs to the field of chemistry, and we are more interested in physical properties, and in particular the question of what to choose. The disadvantages of mineral oils, which economical motorists love so much, immediately become clear. But they are not able to fulfill all the requirements of high-tech engines. After all, oil should not only be a lubricant, but also it should cool engine parts, be protection against corrosion, not foaming, and destroy wear products. And at the same time have a sufficiently long service life. With mineral oils, BMW engines quickly heat up and wear out, as the oil loses its properties in a short period of time. The most difficult thing when choosing will be those car owners whose cars are over 15 years old and have high mileage. They use mineral oils, arguing that the engine uses synthetic oil like gasoline, that is, in large quantities, which is not very profitable from the financial side. In this case, gaskets and seals should be changed, since this oil is light-flowing, and not more liquid, it has exactly the viscosity that is indicated in the recommendations. But, if you yourself know that the car will not last long and there is no point in investing in it, then continue using mineral oils, BMW engines are quite tenacious. In this case, you can simply constantly top up the oil without changing it. For such car owners, the main criterion for choosing an oil is its price.

Sometimes this choice is argued by a record in some ancient manual, in which it is recommended to use something like 15W-40. But technologies are developing!

Those owners who have not experienced any problems with the engine often say that they used different oils and did not see any difference. How did you want to notice her? The car did not get better, the flow rate is still the same as always. But when, instead of 300,000 km, you drive 1,500,000 to the capital, then you will feel the difference. Derby is a good example of the positive effects of a higher grade oil.

Now about some amateur chemistry activities.

Why, for example, can’t you mix 4 mineral water and a liter of synthetics in order to increase the frost resistance of the oil? And why do manufacturers strongly discourage mixing single-class oils from different manufacturers and do it only in extreme cases?

The fact is that the bases of the oils are different and their incompatibility is possible, which can lead to various problems, for example, the appearance of foam or sedimentation. But even more additives may not be combined with each other. If you add them yourself (which is highly discouraged in BMW), then add no more than 250 ml per 4 liters of oil, otherwise the oil will change its characteristics of a pure product. Currently, manufacturers sometimes bring up to one third the amount of additives in oils, but their compatibility and balance has been achieved by professionals.

Additives from different manufacturers may be incompatible, and when oils are mixed, they will violate the harmony of the elements (since manufacturers can focus on different properties).

Usually, an oil change is required every 8-13 thousand kilometers, and when you have such a time, we follow the following points: buy a filter and oil, drive into a pit, warm the engine, turn off, drain the old oil, change the filter, fill in new oil ( do not forget to tighten the plug), check the level (it should be somewhere in the middle). Start the car, the oil pressure light should go out. If not extinguished, then we muffle and start again. When it goes out, check the level again. Top up if necessary. That’s all.

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To be completely frank, the manufacturer does not recommend doing this. But he also cannot recommend, since he previously recommends using high-quality oils, with which flushing is not required. They wash new engines or after a major overhaul, but this is somewhat different. It’s more just a run-in: they pour three liters of mineral oil, drive three thousand kilometers on it, then change the filter and oil. But manufacturers do not always take into account the conditions of real life.

Let’s say that you bought a BMW off hand, and the person who owned it before you used mineral water, after which significant deposits remained. This situation is being solved quite radically. Remove the pan and valve cover, unscrew the oil receiver. Remove deposits as much as possible, wash the cover and pan with solvent or gasoline, and ignite the oil receiver mesh on the fire. Remove any remaining dirt. Assemble the engine, fill in high-quality mineral oil. Drive it up to 3,000 kilometers and 150 kilometers before changing the oil, fill in the Aspect-modifier (this is flushing). Next, the usual oil change, but fill in the normal one. Further flushing is not required, high-quality oil will do its job by itself.

If you decide to change from one oil to another, flushing is not required. Of course, it is not recommended to change the brand of oil every time, but if you use different oils from the same manufacturer in summer and winter, this will not cause big problems. Still, it’s best not to change the brand.

What kind of oil should be added to the vibratory plate engine?

Before starting work with the vibrating plate, you need to pour oil into its engine. Remember to check the oil level before starting the vibratory plate. Otherwise, your equipment will fail.

For engines running on gasoline brands Honda gx390, gx270, gx200, gx160, mineral motor oil with viscosity sae10w40 or sae10w30 is suitable.

There are also oils of other viscosities, but they may not be suitable due to the peculiarities of vibration technology, which can also lead to engine breakdown. It is best not to carry out any experiments, but to use the oil that is recommended according to the instructions for using the vibrating plate.

what kind of oil to pour into the vibrating plate

How often do you need to change the oil in the vibrating plate?

If the engine does not have oil filters, then you need to constantly change the oil, since contamination appears during operation. The oil should be changed after the first twenty working hours, and then every time after 100 hours. Also, if the vibrating plate has not been used for a very long time, it is worth changing the oil.

What kind of oil to fill in the vibrating plate and how to replace it?

The vibrating mechanism and the motor are 2 mechanisms in the vibrating plate that need constant monitoring of the presence of oil and grease. Before starting to work with the vibrating plate, it is necessary to fill the engine and vibrator of the vibrating plate with oil.

If we talk about the vibration mechanism, then the oil is filled at the manufacturer’s plant. Each plant uses different types of oil, so there is no specific oil change date. Therefore, when changing the oil yourself, you must use the manual for the vibratory plate.

Scooter

Everyone who takes the path of a motorist is faced with the problem of choosing and changing oil for a scooter or motorcycle. If some change it immediately after purchase, others drive several thousand kilometers and only then change the oil. But there are those who do not change it at all, it certainly does not last long. To choose which oil is right for your scooter, you need to know the type of engine of your scooter. There are two-stroke (2t) and four-stroke (4t) scooters. Accordingly, there is oil for 2t and 4t scooters. There are three types of oil for each of them: mineral, synthetic and semi-synthetic.

Let’s decide on the type of oil that suits your scooter. To do this, determine the type of engine: two-stroke or four-stroke. After that, you can start choosing.

Two-stroke scooter

If the scooter engine is two-stroke, then the oil for it must be 2 tons. This type of scooter eats oil and is added to gasoline in small doses (in modern 2t scooters, oil is no longer diluted with gasoline due to the separate engine lubrication system). Therefore, the oil should be such that it mixes well with gasoline, does not settle at the bottom and the carburetor clogs up from it. This is done well by 2 tons of oil.

What kind of oil to pour into a 2t scooter depends on your riding style. If you are driving slowly around the city or highway, then semisynthetics and mineral oil will suit you. But if you have severe frosts and bad weather conditions, or you always drive at full throttle, then you need synthetic oil. It does not change its properties until 35C. Of course, under such conditions, it is not recommended to ride a scooter, in which case a car is more suitable.
It is recommended to fill the scooter with a two-stroke engine with oil from the following manufacturers:

  • Motul
  • Mol dynamic
  • Castrol Power
  • Castrol Act Evo
  • Repsol Moto (Sintetico 2t, Off Road 2t, Racing 2t, Competicion 2T)
  • And other quality oils.
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And even if you have an old twenty year old scooter, do not neglect quality oil. It doesn’t matter whether the scooter is new or old, everyone is required to ride.

Why change oil

I met a man who hasn’t changed oil for 3 seasons. His ATV was being repaired and there was not much oil left, everything was covered in soot. And the engine worked in this, it’s good that it still worked at all. But he significantly reduced his resource, and the repair of Bosche cost a pretty penny.

As said, a good synthetic oil prevents sludge build-up and is temperature resistant. Carbon deposits interfere with the operation of the engine and reduce its resource, complicate the life of the compression rings and cause overheating. And given that the amount of carbon deposits is constantly increasing, plus constant overheating and repairs will not take long. And expensive motorcycles require expensive repairs.
Therefore, it is not recommended to save on oil.

What oil to use for vibrating plates

The vibratory plate has two mechanisms that require regular lubrication and oil control. It is a motor and vibration mechanism. Before starting work vibrating plates oil must be poured into the vibrator of the vibrating plate and into the engine.

As for the vibration mechanism vibrating plates, then the oil is usually filled at the factory. Since different factories use different types of oil for vibrating mechanisms, and, accordingly, there is no general oil change time for vibrators on vibrating plates, then when changing the oil, use the recommendations of the operating manual for your vibrating plate. It is best to use the services of your service center.

Oil in vibratory plate motor before use, it is filled in by the user. Be sure to check the oil level before starting every start, otherwise your engine may be damaged. For gasoline engines HONDA GX160, GX200, GX270, GX390 use MINERAL OIL FOR PETROL ENGINES (viscosity SAE 10W30 or SAE 10W40). Oil of other viscosities due to the design features of the engine of the vibrating plates may not reach the parts rubbing with each other, which will lead to rapid engine wear. Synthetic and semi-synthetic oils also have viscosities that differ from the recommended ones, therefore, for the durability of the engine, it is worth abandoning unnecessary experiments.

This type of four-stroke petrol engines on vibrating plates does not have special oil filters. Therefore, regular oil changes to remove contaminants that inevitably appear during operation are the key to successful and durable engine operation. The first oil change at the start of the vibratory plate operation is performed after 20 working hours. Then the oil is changed every 100 hours of operation or at the beginning of the working season, depending on the intensity of operation vibrating plates.

What is it for?

Is this a vibrating plate?

It consists of 5 main elements.

The engine is gasoline, diesel and electric.

It sets in motion all the working parts of the tool.

The belt drive transfers the torque from the engine to the eccentric.

He, in turn, creates vibrational vibrations for ramming. The impact on the surfaces is done with the base plate, and control is available with the operator’s handle.

The plate compactor has a strong and heavy base, which, together with high-frequency vibration, allows the surface to be compacted. The efficiency of work depends on the power of the device and the volume of its gasoline (or electric) engine. Most of the plate compactors are very maneuverable, allowing them to perform tasks even on curved and awkward surface areas.

Sand

Compaction of sand is carried out using a special technology. The principle of operation for ramming with a vibrating plate:

  1. The prepared surface is covered with an even layer of sand. Its thickness should be no more than 0.6 m. Specific indicators depend on the weight of the device.
  2. The entire surface is evenly wetted with water.
  3. After that, the vibrating plate should go through the entire section four times.
  4. If the sand has become dense enough, a second layer can be applied. If the surface is still loose, you can walk the device an additional 1-2 times.
  5. On the second poured layer, all actions are repeated anew.

After the end of ramming, the surface compaction coefficient should be from 0.95. If columns are planned to be installed in the selected area, additional equipment may be required for compaction.

Preliminary wetting of the sand surface is a mandatory item in the plan. If you do not do it, then during the operation of the vibrating plate a lot of dust is formed. And this, in turn, will cause rapid clogging of the air-cleaning filter (important for gasoline vibrating plates). But too much water cannot be used either. Otherwise, it will clog into the voids between the material and prevent its effective bonding. To achieve the desired cementitious effect, water should be poured in moderation.

Laying paving slabs

The only feature of paving slabs is the presence of polyurethane or rubber mats. They are attached to the work plate so as not to damage the fragile material. For ramming, it is better to choose polyurethane rugs, they do not leave dark marks on the material and last much longer. The power of the vibrating plate during operation should be medium.